HVAC has started, explanations and rough in!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2021
- The pole barn house HVAC has started, I explain the system we went with and show the rough in progress.
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Make sure the HVAC guys run two drain lines all the way outside. That way if the main drain stops up, the secondary pan will still be able to drain. The secondary drain needs to be in a place that you can see. That way you'll see the water and know theirs a problem
You're a great educator. Thanks for going step by step and discussing potential problems/challenges. Very insightful.
Thank you for watching
I worked for my dad at his own company every summer since I was 15, now that I am 18 and graduated I am trying to re learn what I come knew, my memory isn’t very strong so it sucks right now. Hoping I will get this down.
I know this is an older video and you're well past this, but I wanted to comment.
I'm glad you're doing multiple returns. I had a brand new home with a split system and 1 return. 2 story house, 2400 sq ft. And it was awful! After 2 years I finally made it somewhat comfortable utilizing vents and different settings, but the multiple returns will help you SO much!
Secondly z don't fret too much about having a few flexible ducts in there. They are not as efficient, but it is what it is with this silly shortage now, and you have easy access to upgrade it later. They'll still last you a while especially with so many returns.
This is from a simple homeowner, no certifications, but a really good understanding of how things work and fixing my own hvac and reading throughout the years. So gain of salt, but you're doing better than most.
My hvac guy isn't against flex either, he says it's quieter, it's good to replace it when I replace the unit, cheap and should last a long time in an conditioned attic. Now the drawback is longevity, cleaning and some reduction in flow.
Hi, Andrew! Moving right along! Happy dance! See y’all later today.
Andrew, suggest you use a spread sheet or document format on your laptop to establish list of each breaker wire. Print the desired document and use clear laminating sheets. Tape sheet on inside door of your panel box. I just used numbers on each breaker that corresponded to the items on document. Breaker one may have one or more listed rooms, outlets, or whatever electrical supply line. Easy to update when changes are made. See you on Live Stream tonight.🙏
An alterative is to buy a label maker (Brady, Rhino, Dymo, even brother p-Touch).
Hi
Hi Andrew very interesting video, we are always learning. You and Tiffany are going to have one beautiful home. See you guys tonight. 🇨🇦
I had Goodman...and never had a problem and ran very efficiently even in a 1972 built houses efficiency challenges
We have a goodman and it works fine here had it for several years..
Andrew, I am very impressed with the decisions you've made with you A/C-Heating system. It's obvious you did your homework because you're extremely knowledgeable about this. You're a dedicated homeowner/builder/contractor working hard and making smart decisions. See you at the Live Stream and God Bless.
Thank you, God bless
Im happy the hvac has started for you. Its finally beginning to look like a house. 🤠
Wow, things are going fast, but I know you'll make the right decision on what to do. Me I'm thinking nap....lol God Bless
I'm thinking nap too, Im exhausted. Take care and God bless
I’m catching up on your videos every now and then hurricane Ida really hit us hard. We got back power and internet thank God.
Honestly, didn't understand a thing, but I am amazed how many data you know about everything:)))
Lol
I work HVAC and Goodman units are good but they do use cheaper electrical components. This is not a big deal if you can test and replace parts. Here in Oklahoma we have to sleeve all wall penetrations, I use sch 40 pvc on my linesets.
By code the last few feet should be flex when running hard pipe to prevent sound coming from the unit vibrations. Also if the unit is loud vibrating sound through the floor you can put vibration isolators under it the help. Great job you have chosen very wisely with your HVAC equipment. You will love the energy savings with the ERV but definitely plan on the cost of filter replacements. One thing to consider instead of a variable speed compressor because of cost is a dual speed compressor. That will give you some efficiencies of the variable at a much cheaper cost.
Enjoy your video's. Ive watched all of them. POA coming from a 25 year carpenter, Use either liquid flash from Huber or Lexal around your pipe penetration's. Lexal is clear and paintable. Ive used it in extreme cold(-35F all the way through 115F and it holds up. ) Good luck on your future build. Shoot me a message if you have any questions.
I really should have liquid flashed, thanks for watching.
@@TKCL I don't know what your previous job was. But if this is all research for you. You are doing great. 99% of the people I see don't do 1/4th of what your doing. As a profession, I wish I could get my guys to be half as thorough as you are! Keep up the good work and I will continue to follow. Awesome Job!
I was a department manager at a paper mill, zero house building or code experience. All research and help from viewers. Thanks for watching
Just wanna chime in and say I'm loving it all,Kelly's country life rocks and thank you Tiffany and Andrew keep them vids coming 😀
Thank you for the support
I keep my bedroom at 62*F while I sleep (breathing issues) using a 12K BTU window unit...the power bill only went up $50/month average...in Mobile, AL (lots of humidity here too) :)
The bedroom is pretty small...about the size of your pantry room...so it doesn't run much except on really hot nights in the middle of summer.
8 years ago I had a Goodman unit put in at the lake house. I was not thrilled because it had all aluminum coils. The price was where needed to be so I went with it. Keep in mind we are not there daily. But I keep the AC on 82 when we are not there. When we are there I bump it down to 73. It has not given one bit of trouble. I have it serviced yearly and I have to admit I'm pleased
I hear the same thing often from others
HVAC has started!! Keep up the good work!
I'm in school right now. Could use all the tips I can.
can you show how you press in and smooth your calk bead? Thank you
Amazing! How on earth do you remember all the this first and that next? I got lost way before the end of the video. Keep up the exceptional work; you, Tiffany and Bullet are going to be very comfortable in your house.
With your secondary drain pan, usually what's done is that a drain will be put on that pan as well, but the drain line itself will exit the house some place where it's noticeable. For example, ours exits right out the eaves of the back porch. This way if I see water dripping out from under the roof onto the back porch, I know that we have a problem with our main condensate pan and the unit needs attention.
Appreciate the hard work and show brotha. I happen to work for a competitor of Honeywell but I think your decision is a good one. Obviously my decision would have been different but i see no problems with yours either. Thanks for the hard work!
Love your trim plate for A/C lines. Never seen that done. Great idea.
Thank you
Goodman is a good unit. I'm a home inspector and I see more of these with no issues than any other. We are thinking of mini splits in our 40x100 . With dehumidifier
The rectangle plate is a nice touch finishing off the a/c penetrations. 👍🏻
I specified hard duct when I built. It is extremely noisy so I would recommend flex from the trunk line to the vent.
That's a very good point that's often overlooked.
Be sure to keep a close watch on the insulation on the suction line of the line set where it penetrates the house. The insulation commonly used on those does not have a long life span in the sunlight and will start to deteriorate. That would leave a gap in your penetration.
Valid point, if I see that a good rubber butyl or liquid flash will be applied.
Very interesting episode. I had no idea HVAC had become so technical.
Me either, and my system is still quite basic.
As soon as you seal up a house tight it changes a lot stuff
Flex is also good for noise reduction in the airflow. Plus in an attic it’ll never go bad.
Unfortunately the Inner plastic liner gets brittle over time and exposes the insulation into the duct. Also Flex is prone to reduced air flow it it not supported correctly or its it exposed in a storage area (someone piles or leans something the Flex). Flex is typically used because it s a lot cheaper & easier to install, but does last.
An alternative to Metal or Flex is PVC and\or Kool Duct (Kingspan).
you're right on ceiling up every penetration, you want to do all you can now before they get covered. isn't zip tape wonderfulit can take your fingerprints off.
Looking great:)
Thank you
I’m with you on the caulk thing. I’ve never lived in a house where I didn’t have to fix that because it was old and cracked. One time I had an ant trail going through there. They should really make grommets the pressure seal on there. Lol.
The pipe sticking out of the top in the back look cool, it looks like exhaust tips from a car. Lol.
Caulk thing 😂
3:30 its called a Fresh Air Ventilator or at least it's what they call it here in my states. Goodman AC units are good but it's all dependant on the factory. We had 4 goodman units no issues at all where as my AC guy stopped dealing with Goodman due to multiple defects they experienced which can happen to any manufacturer. I see some flex duct Andrew..lol You might want to press for metal to all rooms. I am living proof that metal is the only way to go after many homes with flex duct. If you remember the pics i emailed you. They should make an L trunk line and tap in each run from the trunk. Nice & Clean, Drain pan you will want metal with cleanout 12 inches high not level with pipe. 16:20 Float switch is perfect 17:00 thats some pro ac plumbing work bro! Ok for last part put a cement pad for the AC condenser something like a 6in and anchor the unit to the slab so you don't have to worry about weather related impacts.
Weather related impacts - Ida came through and took out multiple central air units. Blew them completely from the homes which is why i recommended to consider a slab for the unit. If not just put to anchors and strap it down during bad weather events. Lastly, I am not sure of the insurance process in Fla but during construction here we took photos of every major investment just in case something happened.
There are some really good whole house thermostats now days. No reason you shouldn't be able to time program the bedroom zone and the house zone 7 days a week. Most are also app run so you can control them off site. You are going to have a really nice system.
The secondary pan should be code, it is where I live in CT, also if you ever have a leak in that line set your paying big bucks to have a leak search done, other than that nice build!
It's a solid line set with only one soldered connection, I'm not expecting problems. When it becomes time to replace way down the road, I'll scrap and leave the old set.
FYI, you can add your own float switch and tie it to an indicator or alarm system. That way you're not going without AC for a day or so and wondering why.
Good to know
Great video....very informative.
Thank you for watching
I can tell you this, I had an air conditioner installed and they told me to get a 2 ton unit because of the humidity and you wanted the system running longer so it would take the humidity out of the air. The problem was it wouldn’t cool the house enough. Your house is definitely going to be better insulated but in my experience you should always go bigger. I did what the guy said and in the summer when it would be 105 out it would be 89 or 90 in the house. Then when we talked about upgrading because we only went with a 2 ton unit we would’ve had to buy a whole new blower furnace and everything but the ducting and we just had to live with it because we had already had it for six months but I’ve never gotten that hot yet. Make sure you get some kind of written warranty that if it doesn’t work they’re going to come and upgrade it without charging you for everything again. The guy told us that it said because of humidity you wanted your air conditioner running more and we had the air exchange and zones and that was 14 years ago and we paid $7600 for it which is probably twice that much now and we got screwed because we only got the 2 ton. If we had gotten a 3 ton we could’ve easily upgraded to as high as a 4 ton with all the same equipment. So make sure they give you a written guarantee before they install all of that because we got screwed big time and they told us the exact same story, that because of humidity you wanted a smaller unit that would run longer and take the humidity out of the air and it never worked
As far as the brand most of the systems are made by the same companies, like carrier makes several different names and train make several different names and so on. But just be careful about that 2 ton thing because that’s what they told us. That system was separate from the main house and was only doing a little over 1000 ft.² and the 2 ton could never get it cool when it was over 100° outside.
Its more complicated then that. Oversizing a unit will cause short cycling which will cause high energy bills and dramatically reduce the life of the equipment. HVAC needs to sized correctly.
@@guytech7310 That’s what my AC guy told me and then I got stuck for 13 years with the house that was 85/2 the time in the summer and it sucked. The same guy and every other company told me I just need to upgrade to a bigger unit, but because I went with the Tuten I was stuck and had to replace everything but the ducting because the fan and condenser and all that stuff was too small. It doesn’t do any good to have it running 24 seven in the summer and not calling the police off
The HVAC contractor should have done a blower door test & a heat loss\gain calculation first.
Sorry for your trouble. I just want to make sure someone else reading this doesn't run into the issues I discussed.
@@guytech7310 Yeah it’s always hard to know what you’re going to get when you hire somebody. We had just moved to Illinois. In California the guy charged me $3800 in a 1600 square-foot house. This guy charge me about double that and it never really worked that great. The rest of the work with the ducting and the zoning and all worked great but the compressor was just way too small to call that space. He didn’t do any kind of testing first he just walked through and measured the space. The insulation wasn’t horrible but it wasn’t great either but it definitely could’ve used a little bigger system. I just went with what he said because he sounded like he knew what he was talking about. Lol
If you really want a tight seal on your house, there is a product that Matt Risinger first alerted me to on his channel. It's like this pressure based air spray mist caulking thing. I think its called a Caulk Misting Machine. Look for his video on that. It seals holes or gaps in your house that you not only could not get due to the limits of the laws of physics but you would not even be able to find them. Like an extra wide opening in a screw or nail hole or a space between two boards caused by one of them bowing or something else.
Is that the Aero barrier episode?
@@TKCL It's this one
ua-cam.com/video/XpTdrVESqJg/v-deo.html
I guess its only in my area here in Missouri, but did you consider installing an attic fan? I use ours a lot during the spring and fall when the weather is cooler and can avoid using the AC at all. I use it a lot even during the summer in the evenings. I love it for when I'm cooking or want to just clean the air out of the house quickly. (Like when my teenager burns something while trying to cook. lol)
The roof is insulated in this house, so the attic is technically air conditioned.
Im theory the pipe running against the roof sounds great when it's wrapped in insulation, but it's a maintenance nightmare. You have to completely tear/cut out the insulation, fix pipe then re-insulate.
I've did AC before I went to college, it's interesting work and I now have a top of line American standard, but definitely wish I had the zoning, maybe someday I'll get in the attic and do it!
If that line set ever needs replacing, it will be cutoff and stay in that roof lol. We will run a new set outside the roof.
Solid line sets like that won't have an issue. It looks like they bent it around corners instead of brazing in fittings. You'll never have leaks along the solid sections of pipe. It's your braze and mechanical fittings that are going to leak if anything.
Only one brazed 90 to where it goes outside. They tried to bend by hand and with a bend tool at first, it wouldn't go that sharp with a link.
Andy,Can I call you Andy or do you prefer Andrew?
1.I went to my HVAC supply house to get a vent and saw several different brand name snap in name plates all designed to fit on the same outside compressor unit. What does that tell you as far as branding?
2 Ask you HVAC man about a SOFT START CONTROL for the outside compressor. Supposed to make the compressor last longer.
3. Here comes you OCD. Some plastics and chemicals don't play well together. Check out the calking with the PVC.
Jerry in Pa.
I prefer Andrew, but call me whatever your comfortable with. It seems nowadays most things are made in the same warehouse and branded differently. My unit is also coming with soft start, that should really help with my generator trying to run it. Take care
An additional consideration on the variable speed HVAC units is repair, both cost and parts. The fancier the system the more it requires OEM parts. If you live distant from a large city with multiple HVAC parts suppliers, you could end up with a long wait for the part to come in and the HVAC guy make that long run out to you again. Basic HVAC systems can be repaired with off-the-truck parts.
ERVs are nice but the real thing is to separate cooling/heating from the dehumidification with a separate dehumidifier so you aren't balancing cooling with dehumidification.
Valid points! Everyone around me tends to run basic units, I'm sure that's what most repair techs are use to.
Do you look at multi zone mini split heat pumps? That’s what I’m thinking about going with. Along with a ERV for air exchange z
Yes, but we have so many small rooms, 1 multi-zone unit wouldn't have worked for us. We also do not like the way the heads look on the mini splits. They stick out from the wall and don't look very good. No doubt they are very efficient though
sealed house is good. those who do not seal well have no control. sealed you can open or close windows - your choice.
Exciting stuff happening! I like the way you think. OCD or not, it's a good feeling to get things done they way you believe is best. This seems like an awful lot to keep organized in your mind. Do you feel like you're juggling 20 chainsaws? 😀
Yes I do feel like that, its a serious undertaking. But I'm enjoying the process
@@TKCL Makes you feel alive straddling the border of command and chaos!
Goodman!😱. As a realtor we see tons of issues with these systems. Builders put them in because they are generally less expensive than anything else. I hope you have great luck with yours as I’m sure you did your homework but it scares me a bit based on my experience with them
Lol funny thing is I've had home inspectors reach out and tell me they see these all the time with very little issues. Some people love them, some hate them. I can tell you that my parents got rid of a problematic Trane and got a Goodman 🤷
@@TKCL I hope you are right. Hit or miss but if your installer will support you, you should be fine. Good luck with the install👍
Great video. Would you happen to the know the model /brand / any info of those ceiling registers ?
No idea, the company I hired out them in.
I would ditch the caulk and use silicone
Haven’t seen any plumbing videos have you done all the plumbing lines to sinks and shower and out side connections. What type of hot water heater are you going to use tankless gas or electric?
No plumbing yet, very soon. I'm going with a Rinnai outdoor tankless propane heater.
Andrew you said the ERV was plumbed into the hvac so how is it going to run when it needs to if the ac is off , I have been researching and they say in a humid area that it should be plumbed separate
Because it's probably the supply side, not the return side like I said.
are you going to make it to keep the pantry at a certain temp for food
No, it will be air conditioned, but the same temp as the house.
Need a label maker, for wire
Duct tape 😉😁
When do the windows get installed? Looking great.
In a week or two, right before siding gets to that point.
In the bedroom i was very surprised to see a return on the outside wall and the return in the inside wall. On top of that the thermostat is under the supply. Also how does zoning a 2 story house with a single stage unit working out?
I'm not sure what you seen by two returns, there's only one in the bedroom and no more, there's also not one in the hall outside of the bedroom. As for the supply, it blows across the room, hits the wall, rolls across the floor and evenly cools the room before the thermostat ever kicks the unit off. We've had zero issues with short cycling. The dual zoning has been perfect for us, I'd absolutely do it again.
@@TKCL i meant return on outside wall and supply on inside wall. I'm glad zoning 2 floor on a single stage unit works for you. Managing excess air is usually always a problem and bypass can be a lot trouble to adjust. I noticed it's more difficut to manage single stage in heating than cooling especially with a loft because heat rise so the loft can get much hotter than desired.
What about the openings in the attic? Don't you have to close them before spray foaming?
Yes, I am talking with the insulation guy about that this week. I have a plan, but want to make sure he's OK with it
What is your projected recovery time from night settings to daytime settings in zone 1?
Not sure
Would it affect the requirement of having to do that efficiency study if you had a complete solar setup that had you drawing nothing from the grid?
That I am not sure of
I would've ran my condensation drain into a drain in your in the waste water system if allowable. It's gonna be a constant wet spot in your yard while the a/c is in use.
I asked, was told that's against code
@@TKCL Our main AC drain line actually comes down into the laundry room and drains into the same drain as the washer. There's an air gap, so it's all up to code.
I just had to install a p- trap in it and it was all good to code.
Well I'll ask again, but I was specifically told I couldn't. Crazy how things are different from state, county and so on.
@@TKCL I can't imagine draining into where your washer drains being up to code in California, but not where you're at. 😁If anything, it should be the other way around.
How will you heat your home if you need to thru the same unit as your AC
Not exactly sure what you are asking. This is a heat pump AC unit with heat strip backup. It heats or cools.
@@TKCL That's what I was looking for thxs
Put a “stack” on a tee for the evaporator drain with just lose cap on it. Every few months pour some bleach down it and you’ll never have to worry about clogs due to bugs, mold etc. Make sure it is after the condenser drain with enough slope so that it will not back flow onto the metal of the evaporator drain pan. The catch pan the whole unit is in should be your absolute last resort.
I've been thinking about this myself, it's always algae that seems to plug these.
@@TKCL They have condensate pan tablets that you plop into your drain pan that slowly dissolve and release algae-killing stuff into your drain. The ones we use on our units are found on Amazon and are made by QwikTreat. They come in a green and black container with yellow writing on it and says "Condensate Pan Treatment". Plop a couple of those into your pan when you do your maintenance at the beginning of your cooling season and you're good for the year.
Awesome, didn't know about those. Thanks
What’s the future power consumption of your current AC unit versus one of the variable speed ones. Pool pumps are insane they’ll pay for themselves in the first year on your electric bill if you do the variable speed model. The lower speeds are so much less wattage.
It was a $5k upgrade to the variable speed Bosch unit. I expect my entire electric bill to average a little over $100 a month. No way that upgrade of 5k would ever pay me back before the unit is toast and needing replacing.
@@TKCL OK pool pumps run between five and $800 more. They also last according to everything I’ve read 2 to 3 times as long. I definitely can’t see five grand in cost getting eaten up by a power bill either.
I was talking about HVAC only, no idea on the pool pump until we get to that point and start researching.
@@TKCL I only mention because it was the same concept running a heavy draw motor on a low wattage for a long time versus higher speed for less time.
Andrew, you should have went for a 3 ton unit, regardless of what the engineers say. I have a 26x44 house that sits in day sun with no trees with a 2.5 ton unit, it runs more than it should. I had a Goodman unit when I had the house was built, always had trouble with it & it never turned off in the summer. Have a Carrier 2.5 ton now, it was borderline about going with a 3 ton when we changed units. i should have went with the 3 ton bc it was only about $300 more. The front of my house gets day sun all day & I have a black roof & 5 windows & a door in the sun. I have an outer thick glass storm door, I have wilted a plastic Christmas wreath between the doors during December & it fairly cool here in upstate SC that time of year.
I can't, really can't. Will not pass inspection with a larger unit than what's on the paper. Hvac guy said he can't install larger either
Do you have 2x6 walls with spray foam insulation? That's the key here, I'd have a much larger unit with regular fiberglass insulation.
@@TKCL No, 2x4 walls but 2x6 ceiling & roof trusses, When I was building in late 1995, you couldn't get pre made trusses bc of a housing boom so above the walls were scratch built. Don't feel bad about having the AC in the attic, my 40 gallon water heater is in the attic sitting in a pan. Caught it when it started leaking in Feb 2012 bc I had a small amount of water coming out the outside drain. Its dead center of the house above the hallway bathroom, so think what a mess it would make, it was the only place to put it. Next one will be tank less on demand water heater I consider. What are you doing, I have gas here, guessing you are total electric. Only my water heater, dryer & furnace are gas.
The spray foam is the key here, he’s basically just built a big cooler on his property. It won’t take much to keep it cold.
That's exactly right! For example my AC guy is currently doing a much larger pole barn home. Originally it was setup with fiberglass insulation and required something ridiculous like two 4.5 ton units. They changed to spray foam, calculated a new efficiency model and the entire house dropped down to only needing one 3 ton unit. Spray foam is expensive, but really pays you back in HVAC equipment savings and electricity.
So can we install a window unit in our room 🙄🤞🏽
Nope
@@TKCL 😕
👍💞
You are ending up with what could be a construction demo house.
What's your height at the peak of your building?
From slab is 16ft 6 inches
@@TKCL It seems so much taller on camera.
Let me get this straight they limit the size of your AC by code? So you couldn’t put in a 5 ton?
That's exactly right, I was shocked myself! Never knew this
The Kelley's Country Life to much control of everything we do in life!
Tell me about it
t stat should be by return!!!!!
In most cases that's correct, but in the case of our bedroom we opted to not have it directly in front of a blowing vent. That causes even more problems with constant short cycling of the unit. We could not locate the return in the bedroom in the perfect location due to the 12 inch on center floor joists. Some alterations had to be made.
@@TKCL
Not In most case dont do it system will not cycle correctly
@@TKCL Check out the Google Nest thermostats. They now offer remote sensors you can place in different parts of the house. I believe they also allow you to set the thermostat so it controls the heat/AC off different sensors at different times of the day. During the day for example it uses the thermostat itself to control the AC. But at night, you can have one of these remote sensors in your bedroom and use THAT to run the heat/AC to keep yourself comfortable. Then at say 5AM or whatever, it switches back to working off the main stat. Pretty neat.
Omg Goodman is the worst system you could buy. We use to sell them to customers on an extremely low budget. We had so many call backs and so many evaporator coils leaking in less than a year that we decided to no longer sell them as our economy system. At a minimum we sell Rheem as our economy system now. Andrew you are going to regret this decision.
It's wild how many people here have great luck with them. My hvac guy sells Trane and Bosch. He highly recommended Goodman. My parents got rid of a problematic Trane and got a Goodman. No trouble at all with it after a couple of years.
It kills me to see these homeowner contractor videos,electricians are last of the subs to roughin