I Should’ve Known BETTER…| HVAC Install
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I'm back at the Murfreesboro Project to connect the refrigerant lines, drain line, low voltage, and high voltage on Trane air handler in the attic. Hope you enjoy the video, LET'S DO SOME WORK!!
#skilledtrades #hvacinstall #remodel
I didn’t convert the coil properly, I need to go back and flip the u-bend troughs. Thx Ted Cook for pointing that out to me.
Love your channel, and love Ted Cook’s channel as well. The true heroes of HVAC media, and the trade as a whole!
U-bend through?
Those water diverting brackets surprisingly make a big difference
@@emmanuelalvarez4204 I believe he is referring to the two water diverting brackets he forgot to switch.
Looking at the front side of the coil there is a water diverter fastened to the coils left side tube sheet by three screws. It needs to be removed and reinstalled on the coils right side tube sheet. Make sure it is reinstalled into the upper most hole of the coils right tube sheet and then the other two screws will line up. Now flip the coil around to the back side and remove the diverter bracket located on the right side coil tube sheet. Remove it and reinstall it to the left back side tube sheet of the coil. The second hole of the water diverter needs to line up with the first hole in the coils tube sheet. If the other two screws line up with holes in tube sheet you got it installed correctly. Slide the coil back in place and button her up exactly like Zack showed us in this FINE video. I'm visually assuming this is a 3 or 4 ton. Hope this is helpful sir.
Yeah typically the manufacturer doesn’t require you to disassemble the drain pan from the coil. You just pull the whole thing out and rotate 180 and slide back in. And then you can flip the door panel
At 68 I'm still working alone. Didn't put much back for retirement. It's a lot harder now. Don't make the same mistake.
Find yourself an apprentice. I just got in the field and having guidance is so helpful. Plus I know you have a lot of knowledge on the past and present forms of hvac. My favorite trade school instructor was Mr H, a 70 something year old guy that has been doing it for over 40 years. He gave us so many great tips just off of his experience alone. Take care my friend.
@European - American When you retire,,,,, you income should double. Take it from someone who didn't!
@European - American create passive income as you grow and make more money buy houses and rent them they will pay themselves and when you don’t work they’ll get you money
@European - American I’m 67 years old and recently retired after 35 plus years in the hvacr trade I was union so I have a nice pension a 401 k and social security as well I highly recommend the union I never sat home 👍🏻
I’m 28 I’m going to sign up some time this week for Hvacr
Seems like starting pay is around 18-22 hr. With a few years experience $25-32$ hr
Should be able to save 10,000-20,000 a year if you have roommates
Nice clean work. I’ve been fired from companies for taking to long on my installs. Don’t feel right over sloppy workmanship. It’s all about the money and craftsmanship is out the window. So i worked for myself for many years doing it my way. Home owners loved the quality of work and received many jobs from customers referrals. Retired now and still receive calls for the work performed and craftsmanship put into the job.
That's the way.
Me too.
Word of mouth referrals are the best method to obtain new customers. Some companies treat their customers as if they can't talk to everyone they know. I have seen word of mouth about a shoddy installer put him out of business. My company never had to even advertise. Our two co-owners set out from the start to treat customers right. These customers then did all the advertising. We always had more work than we could do.
That’s awesome ! One day I can say this myself!
I just removed my 30 year old York furnace, very sloppy install....this is why I do things for myself
I vote no music. So annoying
That 1st take off is gonna have some balancing issues being so close to the first transition also. Should move it down at least 18 inches from an elbow or transition
I agree, although the duct should fully pressurize eventually if sized and endcapped correctly, rule of thumb is within the 1st 3 to 4 feet of air leaving the fan coil, heater, or whatever you have, don't have any takeoffs within that distance. If you have no choice, install a scoop to help. The installation looks clean though, makes a big difference.
@@louhood672 I mean its literally no duct work, just all flexible duct which is terrible for airflow.
I wish a "day's work" was flipping a coil pan, running some seal tight, mocking up some copper, and fitting up a drain. Good video though, I enjoy trying to learn new things watching others who know more than me.
Making several trips to complete a job = small profit
This channel is all about advertising
exactly, when i was an installer my boss would probably have fired me if I told him that's all i did lmao.
My old old boss went to zoomlock fittings and as a young man I loved them. Now working on my own, with the customers I have, there is nothing stronger than brazing
Bite the bullet and buy the press tool.
@@channelcatchaser9426 I'm good
@@channelcatchaser9426 if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Stay Brite 8.
Boomerdomus - "Don't fix what ain't broke"
Press fittings have their place. Emergency calls that require burn permits that need a fix like yesterday.
I love reading your comments its just a bunch of service guys telling you good job..... but you need to do this or that differently. I have to say in southern WV you're lucky to have anything installed "correct" or "in code." There is always a guy that can do it cheaper and believe me they def do it cheaper lol. Good lookin work boss man.
I really like the electrical installation with the Liquid-Tight flex. Nothing looks worse than the typical Romex hanging all over the place.
Conduit
What’s wrong with a Romex does exactly the same thing plus it’s faster and not code to have carflex on wire unless it’s exposed
@@magma1273 ......I agree, 3/4" EMT
In the future I’d love to see a review of the RLS system…say after 4-5 years of use. Great video.
I'd stir away from it. Not only is it a hefty initial investment. The couplings are lime 20+ EACH which is more for my. Oxy/acetylene tanks lol
One thing nice about those fittings, you don’t have to worry about wrapping and heating up the TXV
filter dryer has to be brazed in so its pointless
@@antoniodefilippis323 they actually make press filter driers, pricey like the tool and fittings, but available.
@marcuscrane1989 the O rings are notorious for getting cooked in heat pump applications
I'm a fan. I like your quality and your thoroughness. 9:35 "atmospheric pressure" is the term you're looking for. The vent, after the P-trap, allows the condensation drain water to see atmospheric pressure, as opposed to the negative pressure created by the blower motor.
God … flex duct takes all the skill out of any kind of duct work… home owner could do that.
😂
We've had them crimping tools for a few years in the uk and with coiled soft drawn pipe they always leak. Not had any issues with hard drawn pipe yet
Good to know. thanks.
you should insulate your drain line traps, they will sweat in attics and other unconditioned spaces
There's a drain pan there for a reason.
@@musicnerd72 one thing you did not consider is rust in the drain pan which can simply be avoided in this case by insulating the drain line
@ QUALITY HVACR. I've been out of the trade for a couple of years now. 40+ year's of service, repair and install. I do industrial stationary work on 900 and 1200 ton chillers, cooling towers and huge AHU's, MAU's and large CRAHS now. The field service was a marriage of hard work, long hours, and road warrior miles. Grateful for that experience to work on residential, commercial and industrial HVAC and refrigeration. I DON'T miss it. 😉 The technology of the new equipment and tools is fascinating. Keep up the clean and impressive work young man. We need pros like you to carry on the tradition of professional and precise work into the future. Newbies? Pay attention, there are a lot of UA-cam videos out there to learn from. Ted Cook with Anti DIY is another fantastic resource. God bless you all in the trade. We ROCK!
What’s your best advice to gain or retain knowledge for someone starting out in the field?
@@Lumenjensen777
1st off, have a strong work ethic and be a self starter. 2nd, start learning the basic refrigeration cycle and components. 3rd, check out any YT videos of techs that show how, why and show little tips of the trade. 4th, stay OPEN MIND!
Good luck!
I would suggest that you use larger secondary drain pan with a separate drain pipe to the outside of the house.
@@Bryan-Hensley if you ever had a safety switch fail or not be fastened/ adjusted properly you would think differently. It happens. Having a piped secondary drain line ran out above a window for visual indication, is a good idea. Also (and I see this all the time) if you have a pan that isn't fastened or supported properly and level, you will have a problem sooner or later. When it comes to preventing a costly water damage repair, it only makes sense. Just make sure the damn secondary (and primary too) drain line has fall!
@@Bryan-Hensley Ss1 to keep from overflowing, wet switch to sense a few drips in pan if ss1 fails, drain on secondary pan and aquaguard as last failsafe IMO
@@Bryan-Hensley Not sure where your from. But out CA way you are required by code to run a secondary drain line over a window. So if it is being used the customer will see the water dripping on the window and know the pan has water in it. My current employer HATES safety switches because if it is activated it puts you on a very short timeline to get out to the customers house and get the problem addressed as the unit will not operate until it is. Conversely, if you run a secondary drain line over a window the unit will continue to work until you can get out to fix it, all while avoiding having to play musical customers and putting multiple people out for a single issue.
Maryland an Virginia require secondary drain line from pan to run out parallel with the main drive, no more over the windows, and mandatory wet switch in the drain pan
@@brenth3365 interesting, so of the primary is clogged and the secondary is being used you have to look at that secondary? I guess you mark them then?
You do quality work Zack. Keep up the great work. Patience is the key with Hvac
Kind of weird to see a video like this, here in Florida, when you install the system you start the system. Never seen anyone come back in and do this type of work. Even in new construction, on trim out, Everything is done except for the vacuuming of the system and the start up of the system. Hmm. Good work though.
A Jedi become you have. On my draw thru unit drain lines I like to put a 1/4 turn ball valve, then capped tee, then p trap, then another open tee. Allows you to blow thru before or after the trap during service or clogged drain issue. No more future cutting and couplings, making for a clean job. Also, don't forget to prime that trap.
Not a bad idea using a valve before the trap. I’ll have to utilize that
@@austincollier8057 Seems like more of a bottle neck than anything. I go breather before with unglued cap (for later cleaning of P-trap) and a breather after left open. I really don't get why everyone hates replacing P-traps. It's literally one of the easiest things to replace on the dang thing.
WTF kinda attic is that lol. No insulation, wide open work area and tons of light...🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Come do HVAC in Az. Then you will see what a real install is like... Wish I could upload pics✊🏼
That run on the top of your supply is not going to satisfy cfm
Wow I install these systems daily... and then I come home to watch you do the same thing lol.
1st of all I just wanna say that from the beginning of this video the tape is not even taped right ...whatever ur working on the air is not gonna get to where you want it to go..I work on h-vac and been doing it for years by the looks of this it's shitty lol
Press fittings 🧐don’t like it, tends to leak eventually!!!
I had the same worry; even low pressure lines can leak refrigerant; good point!
Have had at least 5 service calls from units completely empty from leaking press fittings
Sometimes the installer used the wrong tool to do the job!
Braze joints leak eventually as well
@@cesarmoore7996 not if they are brazed properly. . Most people don't know how to braze properly to begin with. Hell a lot of people don't even know how to set up the oxygen and acetylene right. I'm not talking a turbo torch. Those are junk 2 in my opinion. Never used one ever. Of course I do commercial/ Industrial so the Lil turbo torch isn't gonna work on the bigger tubing
extremely clean and professional , been on the ac trade for 8 years and i started catching bad habits for speed/and more call efficiency but im retrieving the love for the trade again with your videos . thanks for the content brother
Man when you cut those bells and press a coupling, and if that coupling leaks your opening a can of worms.
I'm baffled on the ductwork. I mean who runs straight flex from the plenum expecting proper air pressures? It looks good until someone like me goes um no and no. The reality is bigger companies aren't the answer
So much working room. Attics here are 3-5 ft max.
I hired a company to put in two air handler heatpumps and started watching youtubes about best practices out of curiosity, I had to fire them halfway through and then couldn’t find a company to take over and fix my systems. Had to buy $1,000 in HVAC tools, lear alot via YT. I’m confident I did a better job than most HVAC companies would do. I encourage “Study, Learn, Do”. No regrets. thos channel taught me good things.
So you watched a couple videos and became better than the pros. That’s amazing
@@beals6631 pros these days are in hurry to make a buck and if you have big stuff done by them like soldering or whatever you can do little stuff
@@beals6631 its obvious youre being sarcastic but its also hilarious that you missed the point completely. Im not going to bother explaining it, maybe over the last 2 months you realized your error in logic 😂
@@beals6631 resi hvac guys are so funny when they act like they're performing rocket science
I'm jealous. Here in Phoenix, installing this stuff is like building a ship in a bottle.
I thought I wanted to be an electrician but I changed to HVAC when I clarified with myself that I don’t want to be an electrician anymore so I applied for an HVAC company and I’m going through orientations and starting in 2 weeks from now
Just braze those lines man
Never once have I seen a flex duct return and supply off the furnace/ air handler
Thats all they use here in Florida
It’s crazy the differences between commercial and residential. One of the cleaner residential installs I have seen.
Why not installed a Return plenum box.
Instead of goin straight to the furnace
Two words for you regarding those copper fittings…
“Defrost Cycle”
Sudden change of temperature and pressure over time it will make you FAMOUS amongst your customers!
It looks like a sweet install. I just have one question, will raising the line set up in the air cause any issues with oil flow?
That coil should have been changed before it even made it into the attic tho...
You do some nice work. Not many have the skill or intuition. Most installers get paid peanuts and are expected to do more than one change out a day.
Those trane units are garbage. Evap will leak within 5 years.
🍻
You forgot to transfer that metal shroud that catches comdensation from the coil end loops, from the left of the coil to the right side. Anytime you swap the pan you have to swap that as well
I was about to say the same thing
Yep. Drip rail...
Called a splash guard, the duct will fill with water in cooling mode without it installed
@@lowe_30 splash guards are usually installed on box coils and sometimes slab coils. Since the evap coil is on the other side of the blower away from the supply plenum, it's unlikely you would have water splashing over into the supply plenum. Sometimes clogged or improperly installed drain lines or traps can cause water to overflow into the cabinet of the air handler and make its way into the supply or return plenums. A good drain switch like an SS2 or SS1 helps prevent that.
@@dgapp76 Trane and American Standard have them on A-Coils, I've been to plenty of calls where the splash guard had layed down and water was in duct work and running into floor or ceiling
Been putting dryers neer AH they are first rust out ( outside ) it would be worth the extra cost if they made them 100 % copper ? it's smart to have take apart joints with the drain line . Sometimes the slim is hard to clean out . Nice that the industry is making good secondary drain pan's . Good install with room . Be glad your not banging your head on the joists or having to crawl to work on it!
Been using that rls for about 3 years now and man let me tell u it’s 1000000% Effective
No insulation on drain line?
Great video brother but I can't help but to think that I would ever give up my torches for a pro-press or even the new shark bites they have I just trust it better rubber breaks down over time lines vibrate and over time they will leak I have seen it but to each their own still love the video and your details!
You are a smart man !!!! I have been doing this trade in super market and residential for 4 decades. You are correct they will not last. !!!!!!!!
Especially with the POE oil. And with the new mixes that keep coming out. Can’t go wrong with braze. Beside more cost effective in my humble 20 yrs in the field
Yeah our attics don’t look nothing like that down here in Arizona?!?!? Must be nice.
I have never seen ductwork like that ever smh! I don’t even have words for wyeing a supply duct straight off where a plenum should be
How come there’s no plenum
What’s the title about? Should’ve known better? With what
thats called click bait..
@@ajbeck2121 ah ok. Unsubscribed then.
He didn't move the condensate troughs on the coil.
What are the static pressures on this set up. No plenums.
AC & sheet metal since 85, besides the time saved, not having to use an inert gas when brazing or worry about contaminates is nearly priceless, press tool and extra cost of fittings is nothing compared to old way, dragging torch set up attic, line driers/filters, cost of oxy/acetylene refills, labor
Nice job. I was always in an attic that was 500 degrees in the summer. They never broke down during the spring or fall.
Ahahahahahaahahahahahahhahahahaahhahaahhahahahahahaha
I woulda prob put the armor flex on the suction line before you pressed the copper pipe looks cleaner then having to add the amour flex after at 6:30 . Looks good tho
"armor flex" 🙄
Clean install. Where are the return plenum and supply ?
Just wondering, we always have plenums on each end of unit
Dryer always goes closest to indoor coil as possible, hvac 101.
No it matters,imagine a 75 foot lineset,and how much contamination could be between the condenser and coil,and especially if it's a txv system.
How do you get those fitting back off? I’m just curious because you would just braze them out but I wouldn’t know how in this situation
Just cut behind it, more then enough to cut
Why am I the only one to ask why the lineset goes up then comes back down? Why isn't it run under everything to make a shorter run? 1st rule of piping - shortest route with least amount of joints.. Also, would have zero issues with oil return under ALL operating conditions. Don't like criticizing peoples work, but your puting it out there. Clearly your trying to do quality work, but devil is in the details.
“CLEAN INSTALL” 🙄
A few things I want to point out.
How come your not using a water pump with 3/8
hose straight to the laundry or basement septic ,
and I think using easy-trap going from the coil straight to the pump works much nicer.
And one more thing you need a switch on the top off the furnace for service’s. Thx you
You should throw a 30x70 under that thing
I have been a fan of ez traps lately, I feel like they make it user friendly for homeowners. That way they can check the trap whenever they change filter ( if they change filters at all lol).
Alex: you're a real dreamer; we all need dreamers (they come with new ideas) sometimes!
You won't in about 5 years when it gets brittle and cracks. Loved these when they came out 20 years ago but they don't like the Texas heat. Any I see now I remove not worth leaving it
Great install, as usual! What drill attachment did you use for knockouts for the high and low voltage connections? I couldn’t find the link in the description.
it's a step down bit ain't it?
@@saulurena7681 my step down bits are cone shaped. Maybe a different style?
It’s just a standard step bit ..
@@nicksplumbingheatingandcoo6091 his was cone shaped as well, most all I’ve ever seen are just different increments of size
that is a clean install.
what size wire are you running on the attic disconnect?
Zack I love your videos, but man those Tem4 have been nothing but nightmares for us service techs here in Florida.. can’t tell you how many times I’ve been to calls where the secondary was full of water due to the baffles not being corrected. Also if speed is not adjusted it tends to suck water off the coil depending on static pressure or how clean the coil is. Vertical applications have also been a nightmare due to the slime it builds up and the slime it builds inside the backside of the pan that is almost impossible to clean. I hate Trane lol.
You should love Trane. I love all equipment because they keep me busy.
Nice clean work. You made that fishing of the high voltage through the liquid tight look very easy. We know that took some time and effort, didn’t see you apply any electrical glide in the liquid tight . Again nice work.👍👍🇨🇦
using conduit lube helps when pushing the wire through by yourself.
Hello? where is your young helper today? Did he get time off for New Years parties?
Wish we could mount units like that here in Arizona, all-thread and unistrut over here, sometimes a pain in the ass with a shitty trus layout
Do you HAVE to cut the kind valve? Or can you just throw a fitting inside?
Good clean organized work but ..! I dont know if I'd use the tube brush cleaner after cutting off the bell ends of evap lines. Any shavings or debris get into the strainer or txv or eev its trouble. Not trying to be critical just careful.... Otherwise, real good work and video
If you use plumbers pipe dope on the PVC fittings going into the coil it will seal properly and you will be able to unscrew in future if need be.
Why do HVAC techs use such high quality materials on the HVAC system and use sub standard parts on electrical especially when electrical fires are commonplace.
What bit did you use when making holes for low voltage wires into the cabinet?
What happens if one of the pro press connections have a leak? Cut off and start over?
You definitely put Quality into HVACR. Everyone who does this kind of work should be required to watch your videos.
Is this ductwork R6? I'm wondering if it may be better insulated than that. I need to redo my ductwork in a Florida attic. So I'm looking for the best R value. Thanks.
Your video is amazing. I am watching it to see if the person who installed my system did properly.
My Trane system is almost the same than yours but the amount the air coming out of the vents is extremely low. The installer says it need to reconfigure the ducts.
I just did't understand one thing: why is your emergency switch (overflow switch) above the trap level?
Shouldn't it be the same or slightly below the trap level?
Are those foam supports up to code? Won’t they get compressed or damaged over the years? Just curious why brick isn’t used.
High dollar crimp machine is fancy . Years ago in mid to late 80s carrier had the fitting that had the O ring type fitting the big nut would crush down on lines BUT! After couple years it would leak i wouldn't trust anything less than silver soldering sorry I'm old school. Few yrs of expanding and contracting especially heatpump that fitting will leak .
Why attic unit and attic ducting over infloor? Isn't infloor way more efficient?
Square to rounds on the supply and return compared to 3' plenum boxes? I would question your design in regards to static pressure.
Let’s see the manual D! 🤣
Overflow drain pan not big enough for that Air Handler . That’s sketchy
STOP blasting your viewers with music every few seconds.
Is the breather 100% necessary in this draw thru system if I were to individually trap both primary and secondary drains and run them both outside? Also do you run pan drain to the outside?
Installing HVAC in an uninsulated attic is a BAD IDEA and needs to be discontinued. Studies show that it adds about 35% to energy costs. In areas with a lot of snow, it causes melting, shortening the life of shingles, and ice damming, leading to leaks. It needs to be brought inside the thermal envelope, or the thermal envelop needs to expanded to include the ducts and air handler.
I definitely not against the way things are in order to be a modular system but I have wondered about why manufacturers don’t make air handlers that are the drain pan. Without much effort they would be able to make a literally universal air handler that could be installed on any side without having to be re-arranged internally
Wow.. flip the pan.. they should have used a supply plenum and a return plenum with a 5 inch filter base or filter grilles.
Not a fan of the pressing though. Always braze in my opinion. Always.
Make sure u have a good sloop to the front cause they will back up we have had problems with those drains cause of the pan the way its made
I'm learning about HVAC system and notice there isnt a plenum for the return side, Is it just a sheet metal and return mounting hole for the ducting?
U don’t cut the ends of the coil they are properly sized for the size line set your supposed to use never have I seen someone do this, and if you take the coil out before you carry the air handler upstairs it makes it a lot lighter,like they say on sports center! Come on man!
Sorry im new with hvac . So , is zack using flex duct or metal ? My eyes n brain said it's both .
Why would you not use Unistrut and all all thread to hang that unit why would you do that unit like that that's weird super super weird I've been doing AC for at least 28 years and that's f****** weird easier as always not better
What did you use for the flex duct hangers? It looks like seat belt strap.
Thanks for the video.
Our company in Dayton Ohio is having a hard time getting the 7/8 connectors. Where do you get order yours from?
I’m 18, live in Arizona, so it’s always hot here. Is HVAC a career worth going into?
Man that is one clean install hats off to ya bud. I’m curious why you did not have the heat kit and other things you needed to finish that one up that day and also is the customer not living there because that’s the only way i can see leaving a job unfinished.
I love the quality of this video, great job!
why dont you put ball valves on the drain line for future clean outs? JW
I don't see a drain line for the sheet metal drip pan. Shouldn't there be one taking the water out of the attic?
Thanks.
Is it a northern thing to put the air handler in the attic cuz I live in the south and ain't never seen that. I wanted to know cuz if I can I'd like to so I can make room in my house I live in FL by the way so don't know if the heat would be a problem for it being in the attic of hell .... NM found out it is very very inefficient to do that hear in the south lol awesome video tho