Mazda3 Transmission Service Part 1: Drain Filter Fill
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- Опубліковано 23 лют 2020
- This is Part 1 of a two part series on servicing a Mazda 3 automatic transmission, including draining fluid, removing and replacing the pan and filter. This video covers a partial fluid exchange by draining the pan, removing and replacing the pan and filter, and refilling the 3.5 Quarts that drain out. Note there are nearly 11 Quarts in the transmission, 8 of which are not replaced in a simple drain, pan-drop, and fill process. If you are interested in a full fluid exchange, see Part 2, covering a full flush using the transmission's own pump and supplies readily available at parts and hardware stores.
Torque Specifications:
8mm Hex Drain plug: 22-30 FtLbs
10mm pan bolts: 10 FtLbs
Shopping List Links:
Valvoline MaxLife Universal ATF : amzn.to/3VcwH03
Clear Hose: amzn.to/4ayxmxm
Barbed Coupler: amzn.to/44UKify
Dewalt Socket wrenches: amzn.to/3QZnhTa
Torque wrench -www.harborfreight.com/38-in-D...)
Jack: (www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-a...)
Jack Stands: (www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-a...)
Lights: (www.harborfreight.com/390-lum...) and www.harborfreight.com/1000-lu...)
Magnetic Trays (www.harborfreight.com/search?...)
Panel Clip Pliers (smile.amazon.com/ABN-Push-Pin...)
Milwaukee 3/8 M12 Socket Wrench (www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...)
Graduated 5QT Marked Jug (I used an old cat litter jug)
Idemetsu ATF Type M Fluid (10 Quarts)
CARQUEST Trans Filters Automatic Transmission Filter Kit (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...)
14mm Crush Washer (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/n...)
Hose Clamp Pliers (shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/a...) - Авто та транспорт
Watching you work on your cars is like watching myself. I think were about the same age and I'm retired from the National Guard and have a lot of old camouflaged uniforms I wear when working on my vehicles so I don't ruin my regular clothes. Keep up the great content!
I found both of your videos to change the ATF, followed them to a "T". Very easy to follow steps. I did not change the filter due to a lack of time but replace as much of the fluid as I could following pt. 2 of the process. Car rums smoothly now with 102K miles on the trains.
THANK YOU for posting and sharing.
I really hope your videos go far! very well explained, very meticulous, I love it!
Traveling Overland, thanks for the feedback!!
Very cool video.... 👍 Fun to watch, i laughed when the supervisor dog passed in front of cam.
You rock fixity - love your style, keep 'em coming!
Thanks for watching and for the kind words!
Just subbed... Purchased a 2010 Mazda 3 today
TC in Annapolis MD
Got this done on mine, along with the flush as you described also. Was dirty but not bad, shifting smooth now. Hopefully this will extend the life of the trans!
Wonderful! Glad it worked well for you. We love our zippy Mazda3!
@@fixityfix Heck yeah, for a 2.0L ours does move along pretty good. Now onto other fluid changes!
Thank you for making the video it was excellent
Thanks for watching, and for the kind feedback. This was my very first UA-cam video!
Thank you! God bless!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I attempted this on mine (before watching this great video) it has almost 180K miles, it has never been changed and the fluid is dark without any significant metal particles but doesn't smell burnt and doesn't slip or shift badly, the hardened silicone stopped me from dropping the pan because all I had were screwdrivers which I could tell would risk bending the pan rail or scratch the aluminum transmission body so I stopped and put the bolts back in before the seal was broken and just did a drain and fill. I really wanted to change the filter and clean the pan but I already drained the fluid using the drain plug ( at least it does have one) I am keeping my fingers crossed that the new fluid mixed in will not dislodge too many contaniments and clog the filter until I can return with some plastic wedges (thinking about using the one's they fell trees with) to break the pan loose then carefully remove the sealant from the transmission body.
Thanks for watching and commenting! How is your transmission doing so far?
The best video I ever watch
Thanks for the feedback!
@Fixity Fix Thanks for the great video. Where did you get the rubber gasket? Also, where did you get the plastic scraper with the plastic brushes? Thank you
Thanks for watching! I use Wix filters when I can - the rubber gasket came with the Wix set. I also think the filter/gasket sets from Advance might still come with rubber gaskets. I think I got the scraper at Advance as well.
those aren't crush washers they are bone washers and able to be reused i believe around 5 times before having to be replaced as they don't actually crush
After 4 years, you clarified so many things for me right now. How's the rubber gasket holding up?
Thanks for watching, and the kind feedback! The rubber gasket is holding up well!
I was wondering where part 2 went to? Also, since I'm working on a 2012 things have changed. What color was the oil you put in? Madza parts department supplied a blue colored oil, fz. The filler dipstick has been moved to the casting on the radiator side! I like 2011 better! I haven't started anything as yet, research first! With lack of part 2 I am going to run the car for a month and then do another dump and fill
Mazda3 Transmission Fluid Change Part 2: Complete Flush
ua-cam.com/video/0Gh6VKMNr_s/v-deo.html
Hopefully this link will get you to part 2. Now I am using Valvoline MaxLife ATF, since it is approved for Mazdas of our vintage. Works well so far!
Hi Fixity, Question, why would one not perform the drain transmission fluid from the fluid cooler (part 2 of your video) first to get rid of some of the old dirty fluid, and then drain the pan/replace filter (part 1 of your video), then refill with new fluid and proceed to flush through fluid cooler like in the last parts of part 2 video? I would thinking draining the cooler first would leave less old dirty fluid and require less new fluid to flush. Just trying to get it right when I do my Mazda5 (built on same powertrain as Mazda 3 as I understand it). Thanks.
I bet a flush/pan-filter/flush process would result in cleaner fluid. There are three reasons (mostly anecdotal) I went with the pan-filter then flush. 1) quicker, 2) standard practice is usually only a partial fluid swap, 3) there is some danger in an older automatic transmission of fluid being too clean, where a worn transmission could function poorly if no old clutch particles are floating around. Good luck with your transmission service!
@@fixityfix Thanks for your quick reply. BTW, your two part video on this tranny flush was outstanding in both detail and explanation. Keep up the good work! The three reason answer you provided makes sense. I went ahead with a two step flush/pan-filter but omitting the final flush based on your suggestion of not making fluid too clean. Got 2 quarts of dirty fluid out with the initial cooler flush, and 3 quarts of dirty fluid from the pan-filter for a total extraction of 5 quarts of dirty fluid. Mazda 5 has 8.6 quart tranny fluid capacity, so there remains about 2.6 quarts of old dirty fluid inside system. So far so good afterwards.
Thanks for the update on your Mazda5 project! How is shifting and overall performance since you did the flush? It made a big difference on ours. I’m planning to repeat the flush on our three every 30-40K.
@@fixityfix Shifts smoother than before but it might just be psychological since I think my car runs smoother right after each oil change. :-) Mazda 5 had 113K miles on original tranny fluid as evidenced by the black fluid extracted. So definitely a big difference mechanically for the transmission, but also big peace of mind for owner. I probably should have done tranny flush earlier, but Mazda 5 manual did not list transmission flush on the maintenance chart. Thanks again for your wisdom and look forward to more of your videos.
Lol, totally agree about oil changes!
Is there any oil leak underneath the oil pan after using the rubber gasket. Nornally Mazda used the silicone RTV gasket maker. But now you're using the rubber gasket. Is it running good?
It’s running/shifting perfectly, and, so far, no leaks. I did add a couple of extra ft/lbs to the pan bolts.
How often the transmission fluid should be replaced for Mazda3?
Thanks for watching! I change ours every 30-40k miles.
should i do this at 150k miles when i can't find any proof that the transmission has ever been serviced? should i just gradually change like 50% of the fluid every 10K miles. the transmission shifts fine going up and down large hills in SW missouri :-)
Thanks for watching and commenting! I’d definitely at least do the gradual option. Gradual is safest. If you choose to flush, would be good to keep original fluid in a clean container- if it acts up, you could swap some of the old fluid back in (taking advantage of clutch material in fluid). Good luck!
Hi. I see you didn't put any gasket silicon on a pan and gasket. Others put all around it and some just few drops.
Based on your video I guess it's not necessary right?
Thanks for watching! I typically don’t use any sealant on rubber gaskets, I will on paper or cork gaskets.
Thanks for the quick reply.
My 2010 Mazda 3 is 170k miles and the tranny fluid was never changed. I think maybe at this point it will be safer just to replace the fluid without flushing?
I think that’s probably safest! Good luck!
Where did you get gasket?
Thanks for watching! I got them as part of the filter kit from Advance Auto.
where can i purchase this type of fluid? my auto parts stores don’t have this type of atf
Thanks for watching! I ordered the Idemetsu fluid from Amazon. Advance Auto in my area (Roanoke, VA) can now get it as well. Now that Valvoline MaxLive ATF is rated for these transmissions, I am planning to use it on my next flush for this Mazda3. You can find MaxLife at most retailers - usually, it is least expensive at Walmart. Let me know how your change goes, and good luck!
@@fixityfix thank you