Suggestion; The Process ... Drop the transmission pan and drain all the Trans Fluid. Clean the pan and magnets and if its a paper filter replace - - if its a metal screens filter clean and reinstall. Always undo the filter, you'll always get an additional pint or quart. Put everything back - - add the same amount of fluid (6qts comes out, add 6 qts). Do not start your car .... then undo the transmission lines and attach clear plastic lines from each into a a small bucket that has a level line for up to one quart. Start car DO NOT REV THE ENGINE once you start fluid (old) will go into the bucket (you will now see the fluid entering from one line and the other nothing). Once the bucket has a quart in it stop and a new clean quart of fluid ...Start the process again. Once you get to the third quart you will see the color changing from a dark maroon to a light red. At this point you can continue or stop. This is the best most fluid effiecnt way .. not to mention there is no way to damage the trans ...
I am a firm believer in changing the transmission filter and cleaning the magnets and scraping down the pan seal seats. In process, I personally *remove the filter* AFTER the first flush and reinstall the pan, and then flush from *full 20 qt* bucket into the empty bucket with 18 liters, under a higher 2,000 rpm engine speed. I watch the color of the fluid. Then, I slowly pour the receiving bucket into the draw bucket, through a paper cone filter basket, twice. If the color changes a lot, I will do a second and third pour, then dispose of all the liquid, do one more flush of what fills up the transmission, dispose of that (or put it back for another flush if necessary) and turn off the motor immediately when it's empty. I drain my transmission pan of what might be left in it, then install a high grade OEM transmission fluid filter from the dealership or from NAPA. No cheap Amazon China crap.
There’s an easier way. Use 2 buckets, one empty, one full of clean fluid. Discharge into empty, put suction side in full bucket. Use brake lines in and out of buckets.
You can pour in new fluid as the old comes out. When you have a quart in the pan you add a quart of the new, and keep on like that. When you see 3 quarts in the pan you should have 3 new quarts added, and when you see the dark fluid coming out of the drain hoses and it suddenly changes to clean fluid, you can shut the car off, reconnect the hoses and top it off and go for a test drive. I've done this several times with my old '91 Dodge and it started shifting and sounding like new again. Mine likes clean fluid. Make sure you use the right kind of fluid for your vehicle. I use the right kind but a cheap brand and have had wonderful results. You don't have to run the pump dry.
A little late to the party, but the problems Dodge was having with the transmissions in those trucks had a lot to do with 2 things. 1) the silicone check ball in that lower transmission hose where the hose mounts to the hard line coming from the transmission. The ball would melt and plug the line. You can replace the hoses using a couple of hose 4an x 3/8 hose barbs and some 3/8 hoses. 2) was when you turn off the overdrive you for some reason it stops pumping fluid to the O/D unit. This can be resolved by installing a Sonnax Sure Cure kit in the valve body so it isn't a repair to do if you are new to working on cars. The 46RH/E transmissions are actually really good and very strong, they just had some design flaws from the factory that need to be addressed. Cheers
I do it this way, too. I have only replaced the filters once. I have Fords, a 2004 and a 2006. Both are Florida cars with original transmissions. 227K miles and 153K miles.
I've done this for years and used it to flush out some nasty transmissions. With no issues. I keep it topped off as it pumps. You can go through a lot of transmission fluid this way but it does work good. Oh and I always pull the pan and clean the magnets in the pan.
In my earlier days of automotive I thought you had to bring it to a shop so they can use their machine but then I found the tranny line method on UA-cam - proof that there’s almost always a cheap, free, or DIY alternative to what people with a shop can do. Doesn’t always mean it’s very safe
As a Valvoline worker: this is a really cheap way, that can be inconsistent on certain vehicles, to flush transmission. Funny enough, it’s actually pretty close to how the main machine (not made by Valvoline) works, though the usual machine is often faster and doesn’t require you to gas the engine, as the machine does most of the pumping *while the engine is off.*
Had a disaster with Toyota Sienna, Radiator burst, mixing coolant with transmission oil and everything was thick purple. Changed radiator and gave it to shop to flush the transmission. Still was getting purple color in transmission. Had drain and fill two times, but the transmission oil was purple. now I can do the flush at home saving tons of money. Thanks
@@ithinkiatecatinchina Yes, it was pretty easy to do, Initially I gave it to get a professional transmission & radiator flush who did it multiple times (?) and charged me $800 and told me that the radiator was bad as still the transmission & coolant were mixing. I replaced the radiator and flushed the transmission myself and my van is running perfect now. I also flushed the coolant myself.
Good tips! I have a hand pump that I got from Harbor Freight. It has a hose long enough to get all the way down the dipstick tube. I usually start with that before I change out transmission filters. I haven't had a reason to flush anything yet.
Pretty good but I’ll stick to doing it the messy way- just been doing it thru the pan for 35 years. So I don’t make much of a mess after the years of experience.
Thru the pan isn't a flush that's just a change but of course you'll have to do that to Change the filter..... However you'll still have all old fluid besides what came out and u replace when you dropped the pan. Which usually is no more than half the fluid.
I shoved some 1/4" tubing down my dipstick and siphoned it into a bucket. It took 10+ feet of line and yes, it was slow going and a lil tricky to get the siphon started (I attached a Windex squirt spray bottle to the tubing), but there was practically no mess.
could you go into me detail? like was the car on? and what did you do about all the fluid that was still in the lines and other areas that the tube won't fit.
@@Layarion No, my truck was not on when I siphoned out the fluid. I inserted a long piece of 1/4" tubing down into my transmission pan through my dipstick hole. No, it did not remove all the fluid (spill n fill doesn't either). Some will always be in the torque converter. It was much easier than unscrewing n dropping the pan.
You could have used handle on bucket to attach hoses to. Also cable ties put in the wrong way round (smooth not notched side) are handy to temporarily hold things.
Correction: $72 [or so], assuming 5 quarts plus a pan gasket. And that's if you already have tools. If you only drop the pan and refill that, yeah it can be done for less but... many systems that only replaces about half of fluid. It is not 1982. As for in/out at the radiator... there is a ton of bad information out there [some of it professionally published], plus different car manufacturers do things differently. So, best engineering practice for thermal efficiency from an intercooler? Counterflow: if radiator flows top to bottom, tranmission fluid should flow bottom to top. In the case of purely side to side flow [with a vertical intercooler], then don't worry about it, except where intercooler is horizontal like you might find in a Tacoma and others - then again, you want counterflow . A radiator with sectioned baffles inside making coolant follow an S pattern is basically a side to side design. If you are refilling a transmission as system pumps out/engine running, a handy tool is a 5 quart paint mixing bucket from a paint store- they have gradations on the side. If you can't keep up on the refill while running [quart for quart] shut it down/get it topped off, and then go again. Losing prime on the transmission pump isn't a service - its a rebuild in many cases.
Randy, there is a misconception regarding transmission flushes/fluid exchange/and drain & refill! What you are doing is primarily a fluid exchange which is fine for what your doing! The big problem can be is with an actually flush, where you actually hookup a flush machine that runs high pressure chemical cleaning agent along with clean fluid thru your transmission lines, which can be done at dealerships, or a maintenance repair shop! A flush can cause problems as you've mentioned, to a transmission that has NOT had these types of services regularly throughout its life (that's where the damage can be caused)! That when its best to do a fluid exchange, or a Drain & refill (which can be done on most Japanese Imports, since most of them have a drain plug on there transmission pan)! That will allow you to incorporate new fluid with old fluid, and not causing to much of a shock to your transmission! Keep up the good work Randy!!!
you can do a flush, only if you've done it from the begging of the cars service life! I use to do them on all my cars that I bought brand new every 30k miles, and it kept the Tranny like new!
Oh Damn! I have a 20 year old Toyota Avalon that my dad bought brand new back in Jersey 20 years ago. Original motor and Tranny, and I drive it back and forth to NC, Alabama, and all along the east coast. And it has 274k miles on it, with the original A/C compressor (that blows cold), and even the original Alternator!!
@@l.cfootman3259 we bought the neon when it had 1 mile on it. We also had a Sebring that we purchased with 20k. Flushed at 60 and went out at 65. My current car was flushed once at 50k and now has 187k. I'm not too fond of flushes, especially "the lifetime fluid" schpiel. Toyotas are good. I've owned an xa (Scion) and a Prius. Still own the xa with 305k on it. Prius blew up (batteries) at 215k so I traded it in.
Can I run a hose from a new bottle of fluid to the inlet while pumping out the old fluid at the same time? That way I can activate the pump and get a good flush. I don't care if I have to refill the sump after the filter change.
Thumbs up and subscribed after I heard what you said at 3:43 - "... just preventative maintenance so that the next guy that gets it...". Good attitude and awesome video!
It all depends on the transmission. I have seen some steps and procedures that say to put the car in various different gears for 5 seconds or so to get it all out properly
It's a Dodge, the transmission needs to be in neutral in order for the fluid to flow without having to give it gas. It also has to be checked while in neutral. Your method works like the t-tech, only difference is how you fill it. And that was my question when looking for your video. How to fill it safely? Good video thanks!
Using the transmission's internal pump is actually how dealerships do it. Some have a machine that actively removes the fluid. You have to know when to shut it off though because the torque converter will eat itself alive. The fluid in that truck looked so good, I would have just done a pan drop ( Clean the pan and inspect the magnet for large pieces of material. If that magnet is fuzzy, that transmission is on its way out. If there is a plug in the bottom of the pan, you know for a fact that the fluid has never been changed because that plug is knocked into the pan at the factory when they assemble the transmission with the dipstick and tube.) fluid change with a new filter and called it a day. That is absolute truth that when you flush them, they can and do start slipping. Transmissions build up varnishes and the fluid does contain friction material that all helps it operate. Fresh transmission fluid has detergents in it that washes all that away and you can have shifting and slipping problems down the road.
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 V8 5.7L. bought truck used with 60,000 miles., don't know what maintenance the truck received as far as transmission. I now have 85,000 mi on it, should I change the ATF. Flush or drain the pan?
Too long in my opinion, every 30k for off-the-shelf fluid, I actually am gonna change mine at 25k miles.. the only fluid I trust to last longer is Amsoil Signature Series, it is second to none and has made my 03 Camry shift so much smoother
What your saying is very true remember tho not all transmission can be so simple. You have some transmission that you have to have the car up on a lift to even check the fluid in transmission. If you have a car with no transmission dipstick then your going need more time and some special tool that can pump fluid back into the transmission.
My FJ has a "sealed" (no dip-stick) transmission and this approach can be used on any transmission: 1. Disconnect the radiator "out-fall" line. 2. Install a radiator drain-line into a opaque gallon container. 3. Install a funnel with extension line onto the return line. 4. Run engine, replacing equal Fresh with drained. 5. When drained gallon is full, shut off engine for a second container and second Fresh gallon. 6. Repeat for some 3.x gallons until out-fall is pink. 7. Pull transmission over-full plug (or dip-stick) to ensure transmission is topped off full and adjust as necessary.
Lucas is not good for modern transmissions too thick and if you live in a cold climate it jels up the fluid causing poor shifting just my personal experience
That’s the least of your problems Lucas fix slip blows out seals they swell and swell and swell and don’t stop swelling until they blow, lube guard is a better safe alternative isn’t thick and doesn’t swell seals.
100% correct. The old Chrysler truck RE/RH transmissions shut the pump off in park. Looks like he’s just siphoning. Pump didn’t run dry because it wasn’t running
Thank u for the good job.. Is it possible that you connect the inline to the new oil to be sucked in? Because i dont have dipstick in my car, and thank you
I expect to see a thumbnail clip of this from Scotty with a headline of how changing your fluid like this is wrong. 😂 True story in my experience if you change fluid that is dark and has metal particulates in it with new fluid the difference in viscosity and lack of shavings will then cause the transmission to shift poorly or even begin to slip. Crazy I know but it’s science. I do like the creative trans flush system! That’s pretty slick.
Definitely a home made system but if you're happy and clean trany fluid is a mess when it gets spilled . But I like you being honest about different people's views sunburned good summer bad just do what makes you happy . But what's the news on a shop location you showed us a few possible location any more yes it's a lot of $$$$$ but in the long run .
Amazing video! I've a question tho : My Kia service manual do suggests this exact procedure, perhaps the only difference is that they suggest doing 1 quarter, then turn off the engine + add one quarter and repeat ;also they suggest using the draining plug right after the first and replace what falls through there, but they don't say anything about the filter. My question is, is it too necessary to change it? Some mechanics say no because the filter only catches large pieces, I can import the filter but getting a mechanic that actually accepts to change it is the messy part. Thank you so much in advance
I would just do 2-3 drain & fills to get the same result. Or take it to a shop with the flush machine. But if it's prone to failure, just do multiple drain & fills.
Great way to fry the transmission for the new owner by using Lucas. I love Lucas products and have been using them for years. The truth is when it comes to engines they are great, when it comes to hydraulic systems or transmissions steer clear. They expand seals and prevent lubrication of gears.
Those dodges are known to have trans issues. my cousin always had to add lucas to his dodge trucks. and it would fix the issue for like a year then in a year he had issues again and changed the fluid again and added more lucas and it was good again for anther year. He did that until the frame rusted out and then it went to the salvage yard.
Got a 94 Toyota pick up. Brown dirt transmission fluid but not burnt and black. The previous owner never changed it. 158k miles. It’s slow and occasionally a small jerk from 1 to second gear. Should I change it even tho there’s a small jerk?
You need to start having a Budget Bulletin on the top right of your videos showing what you have in a vehicle so we can follow its progress. How much you have invested in the Dodge?
I've got a 2003 envoy slt that all I did was change out the oil...😂it now has 330000 miles on it...😮The cable linkage came indone...I bought a doorman kit fixed that took it to get a code reader threw a PO757 so pulled pan changed selenoids a,b, and the shift valve was stuck open too😂cleaned it and freed the stuck...should I do a flush ...there is nothing in the pan with the selenoids..I only have a gallon of Valvoline maxlife...I changed filter..it was dk brownblack sludg metal...I knnow it. Needs a flush..will it hurt if I start engine and there's nothing in the pan that houses all the components...or to run it to town low to get some more after I do the flush
I've done with with cars that you can change the filter on, As well as lifting the drive-wheels up and going through all the gears. Never had an issue with it before, and 2 of the cars are still on the road today.
I love dodge my dakota has 212k on it with the original trans never rebuilt because i adjust the bands when needed and replace that solenoid so. Next time you get a dodge you shpuld adjust the bands and replace the governer pressure control solenoid.
When I was about 18 I had a car that quit moving at all, my dad poured brake fluid in my transmission and got the car moving and I drove it another 2 years
Is it possible, once you have a trans cooler line removed , to pump new fluid into the line disconnected, once direction of fluid travel is known*? ..instead of adding new atf fluid through the dipstick tube?..as the fluid drains it is replaced under pressure similar to how much is in the line, approx 25*psi ..seems like it would be similar in end result..having two containers will show exactly what is removed and replaced..
@@ahrred3127 it depends on the age of your vehicle some times its alot cheaper to buy another used tranny but some people do rebuild transmissions for a low cost. So if i was you i would look around and see whats best for you
I know this may seem like a hater comment but I promise it is not I comment this to help you please do not use Lucas fix slip it swells transmission seals any trans shop will tell you this lookup videos of transmission rebuilders discussing this, lube guard is much better for smoothing out the trans get lube guard conditioner or just a bottle of lube guard shudder fix which smooths things out with friction modifier additive please do not use Lucas fix slip it will eventually blow the seals.
I had no signs at all, my transmission just decided to slip after a full stop out of blue. Goes into first but slups out second. There was no warning oe symptoms. What you think?
Can I drain it all out using this method and then change the filter, then flush, or should I flush then drop the pan to change the filter. I guess what I am asking is can I drain it this way completely without adding new fluid at first until the filter is changed.
@@voicetube- That is why most people call Wal-Mart "Wallyworld", because the park in the movie is so screwed up. People just moved that moniker over to Wal-Mart as a nod to how that place is. 🤣😁
I found this method only after removing the radiator and replacing it. I need to get the sludge off the pan or have a really bad transmission problem again.
Can't u hacksaw the tube off the filter and put a hose on it to a bucket and flll bucket with new fluid and leave the pan off and catch dirty fluid in a 4 inch deep 2 foot square pan ? That way the new fluid is sucked right into the normal route.
Hey man, thank you very much for posting this. Very helpful. One question: you said that at some point during the old fluid drain, before adding any fresh fluid, would be a good time to turn off and drop the pan, change filter etc. When exactly is that? Do I just go by time (5-6 mins of draining)? or volume of dirty fluid collected? Would appreciate some guidance. Thanks!
I just did my first transmission flush on my 2008 Ford ranger. quick question how do you know you got all the oil out of the torque converter? I connected a hose to the lower oil cooler line and had my truck in park running while I kept adding more and more new fluid to flush it, but when I completely drained it. I removed the pan there was hardly any fluid in it at all (less than half a quart) does that mean I got the fluid out of the torque converter ?
nice easy and clean system my best freind is a Dodge guy and I run Chevy usually he has gone through several trannies and i am on my original btw both of us pull Caper trailers and run Deisels he likes all those aftermarket performance gadgets and i run my stock 3500 6.5 turbo deisel the way it came my truck has 4 10 gears and the fuel mileage sucks on anything over 60 mph but she will pull a load anywhere my freind and i basically live in the same town and camp together so i like to leave behind him and pass him on the highway for kicks in a drag race just trucks he will smoke me but i know it drives him crazy when i get to the campsite and crack a couple of Beers before he pulls in my son always rode shotgun and would spot his Uncle Dave ahead of us on the highway i would let my turbo do its thing and fly by him over 75 mph with the horn tooting and my middle finger out in his defense he was pulling 10 k pounds over me although he did pull his Camper with my truck one time and said he liked it but honestly i have a Dually and doesn’t so i think he was enjoying the stability and smoother ride with the capability of the 5th wheel in my bed my truck was bought mostly to pull oversized boats locally and one pretty large 5th wheel i do not have the Allison and was skeptical about that in the beginning although my personal freind and Auto mechanic reassured me there was nothing wrong with the Chevy transmissions as long as you maintain them properly which i did and agree
Suggestion; The Process ... Drop the transmission pan and drain all the Trans Fluid. Clean the pan and magnets and if its a paper filter replace - - if its a metal screens filter clean and reinstall. Always undo the filter, you'll always get an additional pint or quart. Put everything back - - add the same amount of fluid (6qts comes out, add 6 qts). Do not start your car .... then undo the transmission lines and attach clear plastic lines from each into a a small bucket that has a level line for up to one quart. Start car DO NOT REV THE ENGINE once you start fluid (old) will go into the bucket (you will now see the fluid entering from one line and the other nothing). Once the bucket has a quart in it stop and a new clean quart of fluid ...Start the process again. Once you get to the third quart you will see the color changing from a dark maroon to a light red. At this point you can continue or stop. This is the best most fluid effiecnt way .. not to mention there is no way to damage the trans ...
I am a firm believer in changing the transmission filter and cleaning the magnets and scraping down the pan seal seats.
In process, I personally *remove the filter* AFTER the first flush and reinstall the pan, and then flush from *full 20 qt* bucket into the empty bucket with 18 liters, under a higher 2,000 rpm engine speed. I watch the color of the fluid. Then, I slowly pour the receiving bucket into the draw bucket, through a paper cone filter basket, twice.
If the color changes a lot, I will do a second and third pour, then dispose of all the liquid, do one more flush of what fills up the transmission, dispose of that (or put it back for another flush if necessary) and turn off the motor immediately when it's empty.
I drain my transmission pan of what might be left in it, then install a high grade OEM transmission fluid filter from the dealership or from NAPA. No cheap Amazon China crap.
hi, I use the same method on my BMW X3, have done for years and it works fine.
@@MexicoAdventurer the napa and OME filters are made in china as well. I've used them both and i see no difference on the outside.
@cocodog85 Of course dear.
There’s an easier way. Use 2 buckets, one empty, one full of clean fluid. Discharge into empty, put suction side in full bucket. Use brake lines in and out of buckets.
You can pour in new fluid as the old comes out. When you have a quart in the pan you add a quart of the new, and keep on like that. When you see 3 quarts in the pan you should have 3 new quarts added, and when you see the dark fluid coming out of the drain hoses and it suddenly changes to clean fluid, you can shut the car off, reconnect the hoses and top it off and go for a test drive.
I've done this several times with my old '91 Dodge and it started shifting and sounding like new again. Mine likes clean fluid. Make sure you use the right kind of fluid for your vehicle. I use the right kind but a cheap brand and have had wonderful results. You don't have to run the pump dry.
If you don't know which is which start the engine and hold both lines and the one that gets warm first is coming from the trans.
A little late to the party, but the problems Dodge was having with the transmissions in those trucks had a lot to do with 2 things. 1) the silicone check ball in that lower transmission hose where the hose mounts to the hard line coming from the transmission. The ball would melt and plug the line. You can replace the hoses using a couple of hose 4an x 3/8 hose barbs and some 3/8 hoses. 2) was when you turn off the overdrive you for some reason it stops pumping fluid to the O/D unit. This can be resolved by installing a Sonnax Sure Cure kit in the valve body so it isn't a repair to do if you are new to working on cars.
The 46RH/E transmissions are actually really good and very strong, they just had some design flaws from the factory that need to be addressed.
Cheers
I do it this way, too. I have only replaced the filters once. I have Fords, a 2004 and a 2006. Both are Florida cars with original transmissions. 227K miles and 153K miles.
I've done this for years and used it to flush out some nasty transmissions. With no issues. I keep it topped off as it pumps. You can go through a lot of transmission fluid this way but it does work good. Oh and I always pull the pan and clean the magnets in the pan.
Hello can I do this on a 2007 Honda civc
If I imagine they weren’t already completely slipping and harsh shifting?
Is this better than flush at the shop?
In my earlier days of automotive I thought you had to bring it to a shop so they can use their machine but then I found the tranny line method on UA-cam - proof that there’s almost always a cheap, free, or DIY alternative to what people with a shop can do. Doesn’t always mean it’s very safe
Done this many times. It works so well. I use fuel lines so it fits snuggly.
The transmission flush, here where I live in B.C. Canada, costs $202 CAD.
THANKS, Randy!👍🍷
@Caroline López wow that's tonnes of money. A garage quoted me $200 NZD to flush trans and USD is about 1.52x that amount!
Does a flush get water out? I had this happen to me last week.. photos.app.goo.gl/cLKB3vh2x2amtDU58
As a Valvoline worker: this is a really cheap way, that can be inconsistent on certain vehicles, to flush transmission. Funny enough, it’s actually pretty close to how the main machine (not made by Valvoline) works, though the usual machine is often faster and doesn’t require you to gas the engine, as the machine does most of the pumping *while the engine is off.*
so youre saying that this is exactly how someone at home should do it.
@@michaeldelarm1630 That is not EXACTLY what he said. Take advice with a grain of salt and COMPARE results. Loads of vids.
I usually drop the pan and clean it. it's not a flush but gets the sludge from the bottom.
Pan drop fluid service is the way to go on a healthy transmission.
I agree 100%. Especially on a tuck. My easier i think.
the old trans fluid comes in great for using in a wood STOVE INSIDE a shop in the winter month ANOTHER way to get rid of it.😊
You gotta cycle the gears and do it neutral to get the trans pump moving. Great idea taking the hoses !
I meant taping the hoses, not taking. Damn typo. I tried something similar while doing a power steering pump and ended up covered in fluid.... Lol
Had a disaster with Toyota Sienna, Radiator burst, mixing coolant with transmission oil and everything was thick purple. Changed radiator and gave it to shop to flush the transmission. Still was getting purple color in transmission. Had drain and fill two times, but the transmission oil was purple. now I can do the flush at home saving tons of money. Thanks
@@FUNTRAK just had the same with my dodge dakota.. hows the transmission, was it saved ?
@@ithinkiatecatinchina Yes, it was pretty easy to do, Initially I gave it to get a professional transmission & radiator flush who did it multiple times (?) and charged me $800 and told me that the radiator was bad as still the transmission & coolant were mixing. I replaced the radiator and flushed the transmission myself and my van is running perfect now. I also flushed the coolant myself.
Good tips! I have a hand pump that I got from Harbor Freight. It has a hose long enough to get all the way down the dipstick tube. I usually start with that before I change out transmission filters. I haven't had a reason to flush anything yet.
I have been doing the same thing for years and it works great, and imma give 👍👍👍👍👍 beacause I am a firm believer in the lucas products
Pretty good but I’ll stick to doing it the messy way- just been doing it thru the pan for 35 years. So I don’t make much of a mess after the years of experience.
Thru the pan isn't a flush that's just a change but of course you'll have to do that to Change the filter..... However you'll still have all old fluid besides what came out and u replace when you dropped the pan. Which usually is no more than half the fluid.
I shoved some 1/4" tubing down my dipstick and siphoned it into a bucket. It took 10+ feet of line and yes, it was slow going and a lil tricky to get the siphon started (I attached a Windex squirt spray bottle to the tubing), but there was practically no mess.
could you go into me detail? like was the car on? and what did you do about all the fluid that was still in the lines and other areas that the tube won't fit.
@@Layarion No, my truck was not on when I siphoned out the fluid.
I inserted a long piece of 1/4" tubing down into my transmission pan through my dipstick hole.
No, it did not remove all the fluid (spill n fill doesn't either). Some will always be in the torque converter.
It was much easier than unscrewing n dropping the pan.
I do the same thing but remove 2 qts then add 2 qts and so on until you see the clean red fluid.
If you’re have some slipping issues, Lucas transmission fix/stop slip works great!
I just ordered another type but does the same and maybe even better?
Helpful tip - you can get long tubing at construction stores in whatever inner/outer diameter you need, for real cheap. To ensure a good fit
You could have used handle on bucket to attach hoses to. Also cable ties put in the wrong way round (smooth not notched side) are handy to temporarily hold things.
Correction: $72 [or so], assuming 5 quarts plus a pan gasket. And that's if you already have tools. If you only drop the pan and refill that, yeah it can be done for less but... many systems that only replaces about half of fluid. It is not 1982.
As for in/out at the radiator... there is a ton of bad information out there [some of it professionally published], plus different car manufacturers do things differently. So, best engineering practice for thermal efficiency from an intercooler? Counterflow: if radiator flows top to bottom, tranmission fluid should flow bottom to top. In the case of purely side to side flow [with a vertical intercooler], then don't worry about it, except where intercooler is horizontal like you might find in a Tacoma and others - then again, you want counterflow . A radiator with sectioned baffles inside making coolant follow an S pattern is basically a side to side design.
If you are refilling a transmission as system pumps out/engine running, a handy tool is a 5 quart paint mixing bucket from a paint store- they have gradations on the side. If you can't keep up on the refill while running [quart for quart] shut it down/get it topped off, and then go again. Losing prime on the transmission pump isn't a service - its a rebuild in many cases.
"Losing prime on the transmission pump isn't a service - its a rebuild in many cases." That's why I did a dipstick flush! Thanks - great quote.
Randy, there is a misconception regarding transmission flushes/fluid exchange/and drain & refill! What you are doing is primarily a fluid exchange which is fine for what your doing! The big problem can be is with an actually flush, where you actually hookup a flush machine that runs high pressure chemical cleaning agent along with clean fluid thru your transmission lines, which can be done at dealerships, or a maintenance repair shop! A flush can cause problems as you've mentioned, to a transmission that has NOT had these types of services regularly throughout its life (that's where the damage can be caused)! That when its best to do a fluid exchange, or a Drain & refill (which can be done on most Japanese Imports, since most of them have a drain plug on there transmission pan)! That will allow you to incorporate new fluid with old fluid, and not causing to much of a shock to your transmission! Keep up the good work Randy!!!
Yes! Never do a flush! I've learned that the hard way. I had to put a transmission in our Sebring and neon after those were done.
you can do a flush, only if you've done it from the begging of the cars service life! I use to do them on all my cars that I bought brand new every 30k miles, and it kept the Tranny like new!
@@l.cfootman3259 I got mine done on my Neon at 60k and again at 100. It failed at 110 and the shop that rebuilt it said it had to do with the flush
Oh Damn! I have a 20 year old Toyota Avalon that my dad bought brand new back in Jersey 20 years ago. Original motor and Tranny, and I drive it back and forth to NC, Alabama, and all along the east coast. And it has 274k miles on it, with the original A/C compressor (that blows cold), and even the original Alternator!!
@@l.cfootman3259 we bought the neon when it had 1 mile on it. We also had a Sebring that we purchased with 20k. Flushed at 60 and went out at 65. My current car was flushed once at 50k and now has 187k. I'm not too fond of flushes, especially "the lifetime fluid" schpiel. Toyotas are good. I've owned an xa (Scion) and a Prius. Still own the xa with 305k on it. Prius blew up (batteries) at 215k so I traded it in.
Can I run a hose from a new bottle of fluid to the inlet while pumping out the old fluid at the same time? That way I can activate the pump and get a good flush. I don't care if I have to refill the sump after the filter change.
Thumbs up and subscribed after I heard what you said at 3:43 - "... just preventative maintenance so that the next guy that gets it...".
Good attitude and awesome video!
Y have I NEVER thought of taping the hose to the bucket???
#learninglifelessons
Some Dodge transmission pumps do not run in park. Needs to be in neutral for full flow.
Correct. This truck is one of them. I have a '93 Dakota I always let idle in neutral a few moments at first start of the day.
Usually the A727 and A904 are the ones everybody thinks of. If I’m not mistaken the truck has the A500 which is based on the A904.
@@F6HemiCharger probably has the A518 since it's a 360 (5.9) which is based off the 727.
It all depends on the transmission. I have seen some steps and procedures that say to put the car in various different gears for 5 seconds or so to get it all out properly
Put it in neutral and it will flow without revving the engine.
That's what I was saying👍 (Just learned this too)
Those dodge transmission are notoriously know to flow the fluid in neutral.
It's a Dodge, the transmission needs to be in neutral in order for the fluid to flow without having to give it gas. It also has to be checked while in neutral. Your method works like the t-tech, only difference is how you fill it. And that was my question when looking for your video. How to fill it safely? Good video thanks!
Scotty Kilmer APPROVES this message. :p
in the fluid transmission circuit; there is often a temperature valve that opens the circuit toward the cooler; mine opens at 75°celcius
Using the transmission's internal pump is actually how dealerships do it. Some have a machine that actively removes the fluid. You have to know when to shut it off though because the torque converter will eat itself alive. The fluid in that truck looked so good, I would have just done a pan drop ( Clean the pan and inspect the magnet for large pieces of material. If that magnet is fuzzy, that transmission is on its way out. If there is a plug in the bottom of the pan, you know for a fact that the fluid has never been changed because that plug is knocked into the pan at the factory when they assemble the transmission with the dipstick and tube.) fluid change with a new filter and called it a day. That is absolute truth that when you flush them, they can and do start slipping. Transmissions build up varnishes and the fluid does contain friction material that all helps it operate. Fresh transmission fluid has detergents in it that washes all that away and you can have shifting and slipping problems down the road.
"down the road" indeed!!
Themagnetisfuzzyoneverytrans
thanks this is refreshing and practical. Reading the boards on this subject is frustrating at the least.
I have a 2014 Ram 1500 V8 5.7L. bought truck used with 60,000 miles., don't know what maintenance the truck received as far as transmission. I now have 85,000 mi on it, should I change the ATF. Flush or drain the pan?
Next time put the Lucas on the warm motor and it will make it easy to pour in. Great video 💯
Set it in a sink of hot water for a minute or so
Just do pan drop and filter change annually and you're good if you start from good.
changing fluid every 40k is key just drain and refil
Too long in my opinion, every 30k for off-the-shelf fluid, I actually am gonna change mine at 25k miles.. the only fluid I trust to last longer is Amsoil Signature Series, it is second to none and has made my 03 Camry shift so much smoother
What your saying is very true remember tho not all transmission can be so simple. You have some transmission that you have to have the car up on a lift to even check the fluid in transmission. If you have a car with no transmission dipstick then your going need more time and some special tool that can pump fluid back into the transmission.
A hand Pump insecticide sprayer works very well and its CHEAP.
My FJ has a "sealed" (no dip-stick) transmission and this approach can be used on any transmission:
1. Disconnect the radiator "out-fall" line.
2. Install a radiator drain-line into a opaque gallon container.
3. Install a funnel with extension line onto the return line.
4. Run engine, replacing equal Fresh with drained.
5. When drained gallon is full, shut off engine for a second container and second Fresh gallon.
6. Repeat for some 3.x gallons until out-fall is pink.
7. Pull transmission over-full plug (or dip-stick) to ensure transmission is topped off full and adjust as necessary.
Lucas is not good for modern transmissions too thick and if you live in a cold climate it jels up the fluid causing poor shifting just my personal experience
That’s the least of your problems Lucas fix slip blows out seals they swell and swell and swell and don’t stop swelling until they blow, lube guard is a better safe alternative isn’t thick and doesn’t swell seals.
Dodgers only pump fluid in gear or neutral the pump doesn't work in park
Hey… This channel is family-friendly here; what baseball players do on their own time is their own business :-)
100% correct. The old Chrysler truck RE/RH transmissions shut the pump off in park. Looks like he’s just siphoning. Pump didn’t run dry because it wasn’t running
@@voicetube Some gems you find on random videos buried deep in the comments. You love to see it.
What about draining the torque converter using the plug on the converter?
Thank u for the good job.. Is it possible that you connect the inline to the new oil to be sucked in? Because i dont have dipstick in my car, and thank you
I expect to see a thumbnail clip of this from Scotty with a headline of how changing your fluid like this is wrong. 😂
True story in my experience if you change fluid that is dark and has metal particulates in it with new fluid the difference in viscosity and lack of shavings will then cause the transmission to shift poorly or even begin to slip. Crazy I know but it’s science.
I do like the creative trans flush system! That’s pretty slick.
I am Brian Shoddy Kilmer is such a hack. I can’t take him seriously.
Haha, Scotty just published the video today. OMG, the world is ending, plus your transmission will stop working right after that flush.
@@F6HemiCharger same. He practically hates every vehicle known to man lmao.
TPG2009 I know. To him the only car that is perfect is a 90s Toyota Celica. 😂
Prairie State Auto Restorations : don’t forget about his wife’s Lexus..... any way you slice it, he’s pretty entertaining.
Definitely a home made system but if you're happy and clean trany fluid is a mess when it gets spilled .
But I like you being honest about different people's views sunburned good summer bad just do what makes you happy . But what's the news on a shop location you showed us a few possible location any more yes it's a lot of $$$$$ but in the long run .
I poured a bit of antifreeze... what should I do? Drain it. , and add more?
Amazing video! I've a question tho : My Kia service manual do suggests this exact procedure, perhaps the only difference is that they suggest doing 1 quarter, then turn off the engine + add one quarter and repeat ;also they suggest using the draining plug right after the first and replace what falls through there, but they don't say anything about the filter. My question is, is it too necessary to change it? Some mechanics say no because the filter only catches large pieces, I can import the filter but getting a mechanic that actually accepts to change it is the messy part. Thank you so much in advance
Why couldn't you run a clean bucket with new fluid back through the inlet side at the same time?
Because it pours back into the transmission and its not directly hooked up to the suction tube.
I would just do 2-3 drain & fills to get the same result. Or take it to a shop with the flush machine. But if it's prone to failure, just do multiple drain & fills.
Great way to fry the transmission for the new owner by using Lucas. I love Lucas products and have been using them for years. The truth is when it comes to engines they are great, when it comes to hydraulic systems or transmissions steer clear. They expand seals and prevent lubrication of gears.
If you have flushed transmissions so many times before like you said, why did you have to buy new hoses to flush that one ....?
Those dodges are known to have trans issues. my cousin always had to add lucas to his dodge trucks. and it would fix the issue for like a year then in a year he had issues again and changed the fluid again and added more lucas and it was good again for anther year. He did that until the frame rusted out and then it went to the salvage yard.
Got a 94 Toyota pick up. Brown dirt transmission fluid but not burnt and black. The previous owner never changed it. 158k miles. It’s slow and occasionally a small jerk from 1 to second gear. Should I change it even tho there’s a small jerk?
u ever do it?
I found it best to drop the pan ONLY and replace the filter and not just a flush.
You need to start having a Budget Bulletin on the top right of your videos showing what you have in a vehicle so we can follow its progress.
How much you have invested in the Dodge?
Around $1800
Auto Auction Rebuilds this will get people to come back and check on how much you spent. Might even get you more Subscribers 😉
So which line was the pump side ?
Can you just have one bucket with clean oil going in the inlet and dirty oil comming out the other pipe into the other bucket until oil runs clean?
Put the truck in neutral and the fluid will flow out fast without acceleration
This is epic hopefully works on my 01 powerstroke
Does this method flush out what is in the torque converter as well?
You need to replace the transmission filter, and clean the old gunk from the bottom of the transmission pan, and replace the gasket as well.
I've got a 2003 envoy slt that all I did was change out the oil...😂it now has 330000 miles on it...😮The cable linkage came indone...I bought a doorman kit fixed that took it to get a code reader threw a PO757 so pulled pan changed selenoids a,b, and the shift valve was stuck open too😂cleaned it and freed the stuck...should I do a flush ...there is nothing in the pan with the selenoids..I only have a gallon of Valvoline maxlife...I changed filter..it was dk brownblack sludg metal...I knnow it. Needs a flush..will it hurt if I start engine and there's nothing in the pan that houses all the components...or to run it to town low to get some more after I do the flush
I've done with with cars that you can change the filter on, As well as lifting the drive-wheels up and going through all the gears. Never had an issue with it before, and 2 of the cars are still on the road today.
I love dodge my dakota has 212k on it with the original trans never rebuilt because i adjust the bands when needed and replace that solenoid so. Next time you get a dodge you shpuld adjust the bands and replace the governer pressure control solenoid.
Nice job and very informative.
When I was about 18 I had a car that quit moving at all, my dad poured brake fluid in my transmission and got the car moving and I drove it another 2 years
Nah. It works on old cars. My uncle did the same with my 86 accord. I sold it like 7m later but the tranny had no more slipping.
I was standing right there, it swells the bands, it was a 75 cougar
Man I seen this 2 years ago and I said to myself hey I should try this thank you so much for this
Is it possible, once you have a trans cooler line removed , to pump new fluid into the line disconnected, once direction of fluid travel is known*? ..instead of adding new atf fluid through the dipstick tube?..as the fluid drains it is replaced under pressure similar to how much is in the line, approx 25*psi ..seems like it would be similar in end result..having two containers will show exactly what is removed and replaced..
You should of showed which hose is the outlet.....!
When you see the video before you get the notification
Same here!
0:39 Have you done this with any CVT type transmissions and would the process basically be the same in principle? Thanks in advance.
The trick is to put it in neutral.... That will pump the fluid out.
where do you tap in .can you tell if it's been done TKS
Love it sir.
Do a radiator flush. Thanx for the video. 👌👍👍👍👍
Add a small bottle of friction modifier
Keep up the good work. Just ignore the hate!
My cars gearbox overheating so would doing a fluid change and flush get rid of the problem
I don't recommend a transmission flush. My car ran fine until a shop suggested one. Since then my engine runs rough. Smooth prior.
I'am Not A Mechanic Or Anything But What Is The Purpose Of Transmission Flushing? And Do Race Car Transmission Need To Do That Too?
@@mudmowerregulators9559 Wich One Is Cheaper? Rebuilding Or Buying A New Trans?
@@ahrred3127 it depends on the age of your vehicle some times its alot cheaper to buy another used tranny but some people do rebuild transmissions for a low cost. So if i was you i would look around and see whats best for you
I just rebuilt my tranny for 650 bucks did everything my self
If it's not in drive, you should be to put the added removal of particals
Can this method be used I'm cases where water has mixed with the oil in the transmission?
There’s a reason why Dodge specifies to check the fluid in NEUTRAL. Because the fluid doesn’t flow in PARK as it should.
I know this may seem like a hater comment but I promise it is not I comment this to help you please do not use Lucas fix slip it swells transmission seals any trans shop will tell you this lookup videos of transmission rebuilders discussing this, lube guard is much better for smoothing out the trans get lube guard conditioner or just a bottle of lube guard shudder fix which smooths things out with friction modifier additive please do not use Lucas fix slip it will eventually blow the seals.
I had no signs at all, my transmission just decided to slip after a full stop out of blue. Goes into first but slups out second. There was no warning oe symptoms. What you think?
Can I drain it all out using this method and then change the filter, then flush, or should I flush then drop the pan to change the filter. I guess what I am asking is can I drain it this way completely without adding new fluid at first until the filter is changed.
The caprice looks beautiful
Thank you
Liked vid, very helpful, let's add roll in their entirety
Wallyworld? Everyone's favorite family fun park sells Buckets? I got mine at Kmart.
IKR? I was thinking the same thing. I've never heard of "Wally World" as a hardware store - just somewhere a fictional family might go on vacation :-)
@@voicetube- That is why most people call Wal-Mart "Wallyworld", because the park in the movie is so screwed up. People just moved that moniker over to Wal-Mart as a nod to how that place is. 🤣😁
@@pinball541 Oh! Okay got it, makes sense. I didn't catch that it was a reference to Walmart - thank you.
@@voicetube- No problem! 👍
I found this method only after removing the radiator and replacing it.
I need to get the sludge off the pan or have a really bad transmission problem again.
Can't u hacksaw the tube off the filter and put a hose on it to a bucket and flll bucket with new fluid and leave the pan off and catch dirty fluid in a 4 inch deep 2 foot square pan ? That way the new fluid is sucked right into the normal route.
ok I'm seeing this being done. I feel postive about it.
Keep up the great work thanks for the awesome content
Hey man, thank you very much for posting this. Very helpful. One question: you said that at some point during the old fluid drain, before adding any fresh fluid, would be a good time to turn off and drop the pan, change filter etc. When exactly is that? Do I just go by time (5-6 mins of draining)? or volume of dirty fluid collected? Would appreciate some guidance. Thanks!
Look for pink fluid near the end.
I just did my first transmission flush on my 2008 Ford ranger. quick question how do you know you got all the oil out of the torque converter? I connected a hose to the lower oil cooler line and had my truck in park running while I kept adding more and more new fluid to flush it, but when I completely drained it. I removed the pan there was hardly any fluid in it at all (less than half a quart) does that mean I got the fluid out of the torque converter ?
I've been waiting too long. Gotta get mine changed on my '01 Maxima and '12 Genesis coupe. Both are at 130k miles.
The pump on dodge rams only really work when in neutral
Randy out here trying to kill everyone’s transmissions. jk keep up the great work.
😭😭😭😭
when it comes to transmission services make like nike and just do it. great vid.
nice easy and clean system my best freind is a Dodge guy and I run Chevy usually he has gone through several trannies and i am on my original btw both of us pull Caper trailers and run Deisels he likes all those aftermarket performance gadgets and i run my stock 3500 6.5 turbo deisel the way it came my truck has 4 10 gears and the fuel mileage sucks on anything over 60 mph but she will pull a load anywhere my freind and i basically live in the same town and camp together so i like to leave behind him and pass him on the highway for kicks in a drag race just trucks he will smoke me but i know it drives him crazy when i get to the campsite and crack a couple of Beers before he pulls in my son always rode shotgun and would spot his Uncle Dave ahead of us on the highway i would let my turbo do its thing and fly by him over 75 mph with the horn tooting and my middle finger out in his defense he was pulling 10 k pounds over me although he did pull his Camper with my truck one time and said he liked it but honestly i have a Dually and doesn’t so i think he was enjoying the stability and smoother ride with the capability of the 5th wheel in my bed my truck was bought mostly to pull oversized boats locally and one pretty large 5th wheel i do not have the Allison and was skeptical about that in the beginning although my personal freind and Auto mechanic reassured me there was nothing wrong with the Chevy transmissions as long as you maintain them properly which i did and agree