Mazda3 Transmission Fluid Change Part 2: Complete Flush
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- 2011 Mazda3 Transmission Flush Part 2 This segment focuses on how to safely, effectively do a complete automatic transmission fluid flush/exchange (about 11 Quarts) using the car's own transmission pump.
Mazda3 Transmission Drain, Filter and Flush List:
Torque Specifications:
8mm Hex Drain plug: 22-30 FtLbs
10mm pan bolts: 10 FtLbs
Shopping List Links:
Valvoline MaxLife Universal ATF : amzn.to/3VcwH03
Clear Hose: amzn.to/4ayxmxm
Barbed Coupler: amzn.to/44UKify
Dewalt Socket wrenches: amzn.to/3QZnhTa
Torque wrench -www.harborfrei...)
Jack: (www.harborfrei...)
Jack Stands: (www.harborfrei...)
Lights: (www.harborfrei...) and www.harborfrei...)
Magnetic Trays (www.harborfrei...)
Panel Clip Pliers (smile.amazon.c...)
Milwaukee 3/8 M12 Socket Wrench (www.homedepot....)
Graduated 5QT Marked Jug (I used an old cat litter jug)
Idemetsu ATF Type M Fluid (10 Quarts)
CARQUEST Trans Filters Automatic Transmission Filter Kit (shop.advanceau...)
14mm Crush Washer (shop.advanceau...)
Hose Clamp Pliers (shop.advanceau...) - Авто та транспорт
Love this method, did this on our Fusion. Might be trading it for a '10 version of your car here, pretty low miles, but I'll be doing this whole process as peace of mind if I do buy it. Thanks for sharing!
Did you end up getting the '10? Our '11 is still going strong - and a fun car to drive!
@@fixityfix No, but I did get a ‘13 iSV base model but same transmission setup. I’ve been taking care of maintenance and also added cruise control which it didn’t come with. Love the car and so far seems like many things aren’t too bad to service at home! It’s got 73k on it now I’m hoping to get it to 200k.
Hi Fixity Fix, great video! I have a 2010 Mazda 3 and I was thinking of doing this to clean out all the old fluid. I was just wondering how many quarts you had to fill back in after this procedure? Would I have enough fluid if I use 2 gallons to do the flush and have left over to fill it back up at the end?
2 gallons is gonna be close. You could do at least one drain and fill. I’ve always bought a 12 quart (3 gallon) pack. Used 10 for trans. A little less than a quart for the power steering at the same time, then a little over a quart to keep on the shelf for spare.
@@georgesteffens7489 great thank you!
I will try this on the weekend. Thanks, seem to be straight forwards
Miguel Garza good luck, I hope it goes well!
Hi Miguel, just checking in to see how your transmission is doing? Hope it went well!
Hi, I will do this weekend, waiting for some tools to be delivered. l will let you know.
i just did to my son's Mazda 10, 2010. 126K miles. Straight forward, no issues. Thank You!!
Thanks for the update - I’m glad it went well!
Thanks just what I needed ✊🏼
Thanks for watching! I hope the fix goes well!
I have seen like 20 vídeos of these and , this is the best 👍👍👍. Thank you
Thanks for the comment! This was the whole reason I decided to start up a channel. The flush method seems to make the most sense for ‘sealed’ transmissions...but I couldn’t find a video, or even a written procedure that had all the steps laid out!
Thanks for the video. I will be doing this on my 2006 Mazda 3 next week. Really helps to watch it being done👍
Thanks for watching and good luck with your ‘06!
2006 does not have a pan or filter.
thank you so much for the information. really means a lot that you put this info out there even though your audience is small atm. really helped me out!
Thanks! I’m glad it’s helpful!
Which side of the hose I need to plug in for the outlet. (Is it the black hose or the one that connect to that metal round thing. Hehe)
Or I should just put two clear hoses?(One is for that black hose and the other one is for that metal tube)
@fixityfix are sure that’s the right transmission oil because I have the same oil but on it saids 95% of the vehicles but Mazda is not one of them. And my second question is how many quarts of the oil did you use like the part one and 2 videos including the flush?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Here is the MaxLife ATF spec sheet link: sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/9e447451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/5ca3517a-e29c-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3
Idemetsu makes a good Type M fluid, and grabbing stock Mazda fluid from the dealer are ways I’ve gone in the past too. I think it was 13 quarts total if I remember correctly. All of them have worked fine in our 3. Good luck and I’ll be curious which fluid you end up using.
Just callen my local mazda in Canada. Its not a filter per say, its more of a strainer. He never sold one before and they don't service them unless it's broken.
True! I know lots of folks who don’t bother with the pan drop/filter (mesh) change, they just do the flush or drain & fill. Please let me know how it works for you!
@@fixityfix Still good to see the whole process broken down though!!!👍👍
How to change transmission fluid on a Skyactiv Mazda? You don't - sell it - their transmissions are crap!
Hi! My Mazda is a year or two before Skyactiv, so I don’t know first-hand. Anecdotally, I’ve heard the process is similar- eg, tie into the cylindrical cooler. Please update us if you find a good video on the newer ones!
@@fixityfix the sky active model doesn’t have a dip stick but a plug underneath the air intake filter housing. To access it you need to take off the entire housing. So it’s pretty much impossible to start the car like you did. Pretty much can only do fluid dump and fill.
Hi mate I one question where is TCM location in this model it’s not on top of transmission.
brilliant!
Thanks! Hope you found it helpful!
I’m actually going to be doing this exact thing this weekend and I’m glad to have seen this
Thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck with the project, please let me know how it goes!
@@fixityfix god bless you good sir you really helped me out with this
I’m so glad the video was helpful, and bless you too!
Hey how many quarts of fluid did you need all together?
So do you do this IN ADDITION to what you did in Part 1 (Mazda 3) drain/replace? Or do you do this INSTEAD OF part 1? I always thought a drain/replace was somehow safer than a forceful flush - is that true? 2010 Mazda 3 2.5L 150k
Thanks for watching! I did do both when I serviced mine, removing the pan was needed in order to replace the filter. I went back and forth in whether to do the full flush or not, thankfully, it worked out fine on our 3. Good luck with yours!
Thanks for the timely come back. I didn't know that the mazda had a external hose going to the tork converter. I think the blue transmission fluid has more zinc in it, for 2012 skyactive. Also, phoning a mazda parts department with your vin number would be in order. You could probably run it on dextron,a red oil, it would function, but for how long? I used your method in the past on other vehicles, no ill effects. How did your transmission fare over time?
Hi again Robert! Our 3 is still running strong! How is yours doing?
Thank you so so so much
I fixed my car finally by following your step. Really thank you, man
My car was slipping, and no one know how to change the transition oil as everybody just drops the oil and but a new oil without flushing
Nice! I’m glad it worked well for you.
Thank you @FixityFix for posting such an informative, thorough and helpful video! I just want to make sure I'm 100% clear on the details to connect to the car's cooler/pump. Can you please confirm my understanding?
1 - Connect clear tube to the car's the aluminum cooler outlet/nipple closest to the driver's side NOT to the black car hose from said driver's side nipple?
2 - You mention using a 3/8" brass barb hose connector? Is there an example or link to one that can be shared or linked to in the description? Or is this even necessary?
3 - I have seen other videos where people use RTV in addition to the rubber gasket. Any opinion on that method compared to yours?
Looking forward to trying this in the coming weeks. Thank you again for posting!
Hi Gabby NYC! Turns out connecting to the car’s black rubber hose that’s removed from the cooler port wasn’t necessary on my Mazda 3. So the brass barb wasn’t needed. I just slid the 3/8 id vinyl hose over the exit port on the cooler (the port closest to the transmission). Just make sure to keep any crud from getting into the car’s rubber hose you slid off the cooler while flushing- there will be some suction.
I don’t use RTV on rubber gaskets and have never had a leak. I do use RTV on paper or cork gaskets.
PS, next time I change transmission fluid on my 3, I am going to use Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I’ve had good luck with it in all our other cars and it looks like it’s now approved for Mazda3. It’s cheaper than the Idemitsu I used in the video, and easier to find.
Good luck with your flush. Please let me know how it turns out!
@@fixityfix Thank you for confirming! I had to watch this 2nd video like 12 times and still wasn't 100% sure where to connect the hose lol.
I found this link that confirms what you're referring to about Valvoline MaxLife being compatible with M-5: sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/9e447451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/3fa3136a-09bd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1
and also this one:
www.valvoline.com/en-thailand/our-products/automatic-transmission-oil/maxlife-atf
I've been reading that only specific M-5 or M-V can only be used but now I feel confident with using MaxLife. Thank you again!
Great video; I didn't quite understand the method you used to connect the clear plastic hose to the transmission hose, did you use a connector, couldn't really tell?
Thanks! I used a brass connector that fit inside both hoses. It’s a 3/8inch size to match the 3/8id hoses.
@@fixityfix Yes, now I understand. Additionally, when checking that the transmission is full of fluid, do you do that with the engine still running after putting it through the gears, or do you check it like motor oil with the engine turned off?
Check it after it’s fully warmed up, and you’ve been through all the gears. Leave it in Park, hand brake on, with the engine running, on level ground. Let me know how it turns out!
Why didn't you just put the other tube in a bottle of fresh fluid and let the pump draw it in that way?
Nice suggestion! I’ll give it a try next time.
Hello, I bought my 2010 Mazda 3 with 150k miles a week ago and it has some issues with transmission. On my first drive I had Solenoid B stuck on error which was resolved and never happened after resetting error codes and taking out excess fluid that was in the transmission (approx. 0.7qts). However it has some delay before shifting into 5th gear in manual mode and when put in reverse sometimes it needs a bit of time or gas to start moving itself. I'm wondering if fluid change/flush would fix that as the fluid we took out was dark brown but didn't have any burnt smell. The shifting is very smooth and unnoticeable, so I guess flush would not be dangerous? There is only one car service center in my town and I'm not sure how they gonna change it - drain it or flush it like you did. I read lots of bad things about flushing but does it apply only if transmission is already slipping and having rough shifts? I'm going to change fluid tomorrow.
Did you flush it? I’m gonna change mine and flush it this week, would like some advice from you if you don’t mind, thank you
@@nazar_ns7431 Yes I did flush it, even though the problem is still there, the car has now clean atf fluid at least and I can drive peacefully
Nice videos! Is this worth trying on my 3 that is starting to experience rough shifts and occasional slip?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Depends on so many factors, miles, how hard driven, etc. The risk in the flush is that the clutch material suspended in the existing fluid may be the only reason the gears still engage. If it were my car and mileage was high, I’d take one of two approaches. 1) Drain and fill only - if the first helped, I’d do it again each oil change for the next 4 oil changes. Or 2) do the flush and keep the old fluid in a clean container(s). That way if the flush made it worse, the old fluid could be swapped back in. The difficult truth is, if swapping in new fluid makes things worse…it means the transmission is already on its way out. Good luck! Please keep me posted on how it goes!
The best video ever I watched
Can I change CV AXLE seal with out draining fluid ?
Hi there! I’m not sure, I haven’t had to tackle the CV joints on our 3 yet. I’d suggest clicking over to www.mazda3forums.com. It’s a helpful forum and no doubt you’ll get a quick response from someone with the direct experience! Good luck!
Hi Which transmission fluid do you recommend I the same car
Thanks for watching, Jason! I use Idemetsu Type M in mine. I also like Valvoline MaxLife ATF and noticed it was recently rated for Mazda type M applications.
AMAZING VIDEO @Fixity Fix !!!!
Thanks for watching, and for the kind words!
@@fixityfix
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Do you know what is the diameter/reference of the constant tension band clamp ? I think mine need replacing they are so rusty :/
That one I don’t know! Please share when you find out!