Відео

Thanks for watching and for the comment! I like the skid plate a lot, it’s been one of my favorite mods, along with the XREAS delete.

Some have a little, but not enough for older flat tappet engines. Additionally, detergent profiles in current oils, other than formulations for diesel engines, will keep elements like Zinc, Phosphorus, Molybdenum from bonding to the lifter and other critical surfaces.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Rotella has good levels of ZDDP and is not so high in detergent levels, so the ZDDP can do its job. An alternative to an oil formulated for a diesel engine is a racing oil like Valvoline VR1. I use Rotella because it’s less expensive, does the same job and is well proven in these engines on many Ford, Ranger, Bronco, and BITG forums. Please let me know what you end up deciding to use, I’m always looking for new options! VR1: amzn.to/4eIoYhf Rotella: amzn.to/3zzyFzz

I was actually looking at the vr1 myself. I’m guessing the rotella is even better on lower detergent levels compared to the vr1 correct?

@@jose_svt5.038, if I remember correctly, VR1 is also low detergent. Not a bad thing if you do frequent oil changes (I do every 3K). But would be a good idea to research that one more, Bob Is the Oil Guy forums are a good place to find posts where people share analyses.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I’ve gotta catch up on maintenance on the daily drivers and am looking forward to the next steps in converting this thing!

Thanks for watching and for the comment! Uploading a short video right now! 4Runner XREAS Delete Update! Bilsteins vs Stock Long-Term ua-cam.com/users/shorts1J1TdIEWpdA?feature=share

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I swapped the outlet a year ago when I bought the tube amp. It was fine, but the original outlet had no ground, so I added a dedicated ground rod outside. Been meaning to neaten up the cables since, since tube rigs are so sensitive to RF/EMI.

Thanks for watching and especially for commenting. I’d love to hear your suggestions and wisdom. Part of the fun of this hobby is trying out little tweaks learned from fellow tinkerers!

​@@fixityfix My most basic, but perhaps most important advice regards how one should approach tinkering with audio equipment in the first place. Always regard the tinkering process as an experiment only. Go in with no expectations other than you might learn something. If the experiment is a success, then you've learned something useful and helpful. If not, then you've learned that this experiment was not useful at this time and with this equipment. No expectations may also help prevent straining to hear a difference when there isn't any. Secondly, never tinker with an original part *if* *you* *can* *help* *it.* Always buy a replacement part and tinker with that. If something should go wrong, you still have the original part intact. Let me know if you would be interested in my suggestion for an alternate power cord setup. Cheers!

I appreciate your thoughtful and informative comments! I am in this to learn (and of course tweak) so I’d appreciate any tips and advice you’d be willing to offer!

@@fixityfix And likewise, although I suppose that's why you're on UA-cam, heh. Well, I'll tell you some things I've done to get more performance from power cords. Firstly, since I found out about 'em, I always use Hosa brand cords. Why? They're excellent quality, come in different lengths and configurations, and most importantly use OFC and are very inexpensive. Under fifteen dollars. Hosa markets to professional musicians and industry professionals. They make good stuff and I have no affiliation. Next, I carefully remove the outer jacket, leaving the three conductors exposed (they have their own insulation already). Why? Because it's excess bad dielectric, and there's way too much of it. The more excess dielectric you can remove from your system, the more clarity you will gain. That includes any that you may inadvertently add yourself. Sometimes different people will disagree on things. Hopefully with respect. Next, I carefully remove the entire molded rubber cover from the female end of the cord, exposing the white plastic box that surrounds the three recepticals that plug into the equipment. Again, excess dielectric. One can also do this to a lesser extent on the male end, but it's probably not worth the small gain and extra risk. Everything I've described so far is safe (to my knowledge), although not exactly to UL specifications. Lastly, if I have a standard length cord, I will cut thin triangles of cardboard, twelve inches on each side, and attach each conductor to a corner using slotted holes. By doing so, I separate the conductors from each other by an equal twelve inches for their entire length. Why? Because the electromagnetic fields emanating from each conductor are strongest in the first six inch radius around the conductor, and I want to give a little extra room to insure those fields don't interact with each other. What's also known as "crosstalk". Once again, this increases clarity. Oh, and keep the cord away from synthetic materials like carpet, curtains, and upholstery, which all act as dielectric that you've just spent so much time removing. Each of these things produce small, but noticeable gains. The important thing is that "pennies add up". Five gains of ten percent equals a net gain of fifty percent! Well worth the effort, in my opinion. If you decide to try any of my suggestions, I would be interested to hear the result. Thanks for the interest!

. It's the coils of AC cable & their EMI field being reduced here. Not resistance. Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊

Thanks for the thoughtful response @triamphifi reduced EMI is my guess too… and it just looks better. I fully accept the small changes I perceive may also be placebo, but, was fun to tinker and make the right a little neater in the process. Appreciate you watching!

Snake oil is when you pay big money for something that doesn't do the job. In this case, he only shortened a normal household cable. That's not snake oil.

lol, you may or may not be wrong, but how would I know ;-)

If I'm not mistaken when any equipment leaves the factory it has to meet spafaction shorting a cord isn't going to be that significant in the sound if so the manufacturer would have done so snake oil for sure it's just ridiculous

@@fixityfix You can know by getting someone to randomly switch the cords in another room, and seeing if you can tell when the cords have been switched. You need to repeat the guess around a dozen times to be sure if you guess tight out of luck. But the cord length is a very small component of mains supply quality, house wiring and other devices on the same mains loop have a far greater effect on the mains supply which your hifi rectifies and filters. Expensive or shortened hifi power cords are technically snake oil. If you test blindly you cant hear any difference. Its been done and no one can.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I wasn’t expecting any real improvement either, but was glad to get rid of some extra EMI, and coiled up cable. We did a Placebo DB on the power conditioner and were surprised by the reliably positive difference it made. I am sure I would not be able to reliably pick out the small difference chopping the cord made. Next up, I’m planning to run a dedicated line to the rig from the breaker box. Would be fun to double blind placebo that project :-)

The AC then gets sent through a rectifier and converted to 5V or 12V DC. Also the length of the power cable is insignificant compared to the length of cabling in the walls. Any RF noise again is insignificant against the amplitude of the AC current.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Right on! I’m finding the tweaking is nearly as fun as listening!

Glad the video is helpful! I ended up just removing the lines entirely. I like the Bilstiens just fine and can’t imagine going back to the XREAS. Full disclosure, the XREAS did make the ride a little smoother on highways, but, the Bilsteins are far better off road and with towing. Good luck with the project!

@@fixityfix Awesome! is the process for removing the system removing the hoses or is there a reservoir somewhere?

@@masonharris6961 no reservoir, just removing hoses, the hard lines are also easy to remove, or, could just be left in place if you choose.

I use the Eastwood set: amzn.to/3TtH5Pz But it sure looks similar to the Amerbm! Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting! I change ours every 50-60k miles (about every 100k kms). It has worked out well so far and actually improved shifting in our case.

Thanks for the kind words, and for watching! Just yesterday, I shortened the 6ft power cord down to 2 feet, and was surprised that removing the extra length made a minor but noticeable improvement in imaging and clarity.

@@fixityfix Good to know, and somewhat expected. I may eventually get to that level of tweaking. Currently doing the best I can to enjoy the abundance I have.

@@AllynVibesAudioGallery, I just found your channel and subscribed - I’m looking forward to learning from your content!

@@fixityfix Great! Thank you. If nothing else maybe see what not to do! LOL.

Thanks for watching, and especially for the encouragement! What year 944 do you have?

@fixityfix I have a white late model 86. Bought the car in 09 from a guy that was a tad bit suspicious but I was 19 and didn't know any better. Sadly the maintenance wasn't done well and the clutch had been replaced. When the wrapped the job up. The bell housing bolts were not tightened to spec and while driving the bell housing came loose damaging the flywheel and contact pins. I got her running again but the block is damaged now and one bolt hole had been broken off from the damage and so now it only have five bolts. Figured that would make my car a prime candidate for something like this.

@itznoobuluz, it does sound like an excellent candidate, especially as it has the later suspension mounts. Electric Classic Cars in Wales, UK did a 944 a few years back, worth checking out if you haven’t seen their video yet. ua-cam.com/video/SRU3jmCmGrs/v-deo.htmlsi=ViQWXOHSc6jO51x9

@@fixityfix ill check it out. Thanks!

Thanks for watching, and especially for the .02! I briefly considered using both motors in the 944! And probably would have if it was a later 944 (would be easier to add coilovers and adjust for the extra weight!). I’d love to do an e914 one day and the front SDU does seem like an excellent candidate!

Thanks for watching! The Limiteds come with a bit of a ‘rake’ where the front sits slightly lower on XREAS. Not unusual for the front to sit a little higher. But 2-3 inches seems a little too much. Could be a spring clocking issue. But also Might be worth Loosening the control arm bolts while the car is jacked up then Retorquing them - while the suspension is loaded (jacking up under the lower control arm to load the suspension) might help. Good luck and please let me know how it turns out.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I love these trucks, and the 2.9. They have their issue for sure, but there’s a reason why so many are still running 40 years later!

Thank you very much!!

Thanks for watching and for the kind comment!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Here is the MaxLife ATF spec sheet link: sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/9e447451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/5ca3517a-e29c-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3 Idemetsu makes a good Type M fluid, and grabbing stock Mazda fluid from the dealer are ways I’ve gone in the past too. I think it was 13 quarts total if I remember correctly. All of them have worked fine in our 3. Good luck and I’ll be curious which fluid you end up using.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I love everything about this SUV except the XREAS! Fortunately, the Bilsteins are holding up well!

My pleasure! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you for watching and for the kind comment!

Thanks for watching!

Hello from Virginia! Thanks for watching, and for the kind comment!

Probably 6 to 8 hours work. Of course there were intervals of dry-time for the 2k paint and primer.

Thanks for watching, and especially for the kind comment!

LOL! Sarah is, for sure, the most important part of this (or any) project for me 💕. In hindsight, the hatch fix has been my favorite project/outcome on this car so far. Good luck with yours and please let me know how it turns out!

@@fixityfix LOL, got to have a little fun too, can’t be all work. I just found a nearby hatchback for sale on MP, the seller says it’s in a perfect condition, I guess that’s what we all say when we ant to sale something, but I think I should get it just to have a spare in case I screw up fixing mine. For $200, can’t go wrong. Thanks again for the video.

Whoa! $200 is a steal for a hatch if it’s in decent condition! Might be worth fixing both and selling the spare if they both turn out well. People seem to be paying big bucks to get these fixed. The repair isn’t too hard, just time and tool consuming!

@@fixityfix I’m also planning to buy the 968 fiberglass spoiler and side trim set to replace the original, there’s no better time since they’ll be taken off already. I think the 968 rear wing is much better looking, but that’s just me. Let’s see, I hope I can pull it off.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck with the project, please let me know how it goes!

@@fixityfix god bless you good sir you really helped me out with this

I’m so glad the video was helpful, and bless you too!

Thanks for watching, and especially for commenting! The hatch is holding up perfectly. If I ever get another 944 the hatch fix will be the first thing I do - it made such a difference with noise, smell, rattles, fit and finish. Good luck with yours, please let me know how it turns out.

Thanks for watching and for the VERY helpful information!

Hey! Thanks for watching! I just used a criss-cross pattern, half torque to all, then around again to full torque. Here is a reference to a helpful discussion: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/186529-transmission-pan-bolt-torque-specs.html

Thanks for watching! The stock spring is working fine for mine.

Thanks for watching! I have a PrimeWeld plasma cutter now and one of their Tig Welders. Excellent machines and top notch customer service in my experience so far! Good luck with your decision!

Thanks for watching! It’s been a long time since I added the plate, but I think it did delete the lowest plastic cover, at least on the Limited Trim option. RCI staff are friendly and responsive, so they’d probably provide you a quick, definitive answer.