The icetech rotors are not about "stronger" braking right off the hop. They are about staying cooler over the course of a long downhill. Hence the name.
@snootchiebootchies27 I think this way. For power it depends on your brake lever. For example saint against code. I understandard rotor is more on heat dissipation esp on long descend. I love my hope rotors for long descend and I want to try ice tech rotors to see if it will not toast brake sets
Good thoughts and vid mate. I had the Code R's with the same centrelines and went Icetech 203mm Rotors like you have front and rear and it was a HUGE difference. I also put on the 8100-XT Brakes and Less fade, more control, more feel, seems easier to maintain and clean also. I am pretty fastidious with my rig being clean (being a Detailer). I am really happy with my Icetech and XT Combo. And yes, being a bigger guy it helps that bit more also.
I love my icetec rotors, like you said the bite is great! Being a clean freak and washing my Bike so often I always find myself ruining pads! I’m running the mt5’s worth a try if you like brake modulation 👍🏼
Running the same setup - code Rs and icetechs (admittedly did it for aesthetic purposes)... Loving it. I usually use brake cleaner after washing the bike - nothing but consistency. Can't stand the floating bite point on the Shimano brakes that I've run.
Love my XT on IceTech rotors on my Canyon Strive. Running a 203 rear too because I’m a draught horse, not a galloper. I suds my bike up with ArmourAll car wash pretty regularly and don’t really think it stuffs my pads. I ride it down the road wet and they just hook up.
⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ Got the RSC and centrelines 180 /200. Coming from BMX brakes, was amazed how hard MTB brakes go ! I’m pretty light so haven’t noticed fade from heat yet. Maybe I’m not fast enough like you 5 star 😂🤘👑🔥
Mate, next test in this line-up me thinks is a 220mm Centreline. Been running them now on the Code R for a couple months, brilliant. Best brake set-up ive ridden yet. Code R with f220/r220 I think my next trial is to drop the organics for semi pads.
You still on the organics? Pad change might make you go back to a 200 out back. You got a lot of stopping power on that horse! But more braking power is almost always a good thing
Just tried 203 rotors icetech on my codes RSc(had to put a 1 mm spacers on the adapter thought) and MTX pads red lablel.... just bed in those yesterday.... looking forward to really try these ceramic pads !!
@@cg1983 thanks for answer! Stock pads code rsc can be used with rotors xt8000?(if put a 1 mm spacers on the adapter thought) or spacers need only for red pads MTX?
Hey im sure this' has already been said but you should have put Magura's Storm HC rotors on there.. I did that with my RSC's and switched to Galfer performance pads or Trickstuff pads Both combined with the thicker rotors boosted the RSC's outright power, at least that's what i felt. I have since changed over to the Shigura setup. And oh boy these brakes are fkn amazing! The outright power is scary but i didnt realize how much i prefer the shimano bite over the Code's bite. My hands are not as sore after a few dh laps as they used to be which is a big deal for me. I definitely recommend trying these out.
I like the technology in shimano rotors, the aluminum core absorbs heat away from the steel outer. Steel holds heat much more than alloy, Every time I wash my bike with wax I loose braking power and have to bed the brakes back in, but ive started to find its no so much the wax, but more the fact im washing the brake dust off, because if I wipe my rotor down with metho spirits without washing my bike I loose braking power as well until the brake dust gets back on the rotor. Anyway lately I leave my bike dirty for a few rides so I know I have consistent brakes
Hey, actually the brake dust will create a "coating" on the disk which is needed for having the full braking power. It can be washed off very easily and then needs to rebuild by braking in again. I do NOT clean my brake disk rotors in between the bike washes. I don't wash my bike often, but if i went through the mud i will clean it immediately after the ride. Works very well this way.
@@andreas.2 hey, I agree. Thats sort of what I said in my comment is its not really the wax that's contaminating my brakes after a wash, its more than im washing the dry brake dust away that causes my brakes to become weak. Ive been washing my bike a lot less lately :)
When I bought my SRAM Code R’s, SRAM instructions stated I need to use a “1” piece rotor, so that is why I use Avid G2 (basically Centerline) brakes and NOT the IceTech style…. 🇺🇸
i prefer shimano stuff. I much rather have a brake system that uses mineral oil than dot fluid. Both my bikes running Guide RE brakes will eventually have TRP or something else. I just wish shimano and trp would have bite adjustment like the code's do that actually work.
I struggled with pad contamination for the longest time, and now i just wash my bike with water. I just stopped giving a shit about having it look clean
Check out the MTX Braking Red Label Race pads for the Sram codes if you're wanting to try something different. Been running them with the standard avid centerline rotors for about 3 months now and like them alot. MTX and Fanatik Bike sell them.
I have the XT Brakes with the SRAM centerline's. From what I can gather the Icetech wouldn't be a worthy upgrade. Now I hear the icetech could/would distribute/dissipate heat better over long downhill runs. What's your thoughts? by the way, of the entire internet; your video's are some of the most helpful. Keep the great video's coming.
It doesn’t really make much difference. The aluminium spider on an ice tech rotor is designed to draw heat away from the breaking surface which it does but so does your hub and wheel that a centreline rotor is bolted to. It’s more of a gimmick that sounds like a good idea if you don’t think about it properly. Also aluminium rotors don’t stand up to heat well as is warp and won’t spring back to its natural original shape like a steel rotor. When aluminium cools wrapped it stays like that.
I've had good bite with Hope tech flosting rotors, cools well, I've tried with Shimano j04c pads, trp semi metallic/red pads. Good bite with both. I probably don't need 180nresr and 203 front, but had to go 180 rear on new bike so reused the front rotors as rear on G1. But one of the 180 rotors has creaky rivets after years of use. I found the semi metallic trp pads to bite at least good as the j04c, but they don't crack, seems like gravel might be ruining the j04c pads eventually. 🤔
@@mtbtelly5522 I have pics of it. I kept cracking them, I am not sure why but I think the pad material is not robust enough. Good bite but not perfect pads. But I am on mechanical brakes now nd haven't used shimano brakes in a long time, I will try other brands, I wanted to try Formula Cura 4 but out of stock everywhere, or it's only rear brake people tell me but I don't know if it's actually one or two brakes. But strange if only rear brakes are sold. 😁 In Norway there are only 3 options, Trp , Shimano , Sram, but one retailer only orders brakes on order, but he can get Braking brakes, TrickStuff, but last mentioned is 12 to 15 months wait. I want brakes i don't have to adjust barrel adjuster on, I tried Loctite 243, I will see how it goes buy does not look like it will eliminate loosening completely. Also have to add Loctite at pad adjustment too i us etrp Spyke. Brake levers have playwhen new but I had to swap out one set of levers cus of dead throw, due to worn bushings, not found a way to replace the bushings yet. Axle probably has to be punched out, or need some sort of press. But power is good. But not tried four piston brakes yet so I am keen to do so. I've seen that Trickstuff claims their pads beat original pads, they have pads for other brakes, Shimano. Hope for example. Not tried any of it.
@@mtbtelly5522 I don't know if the th shimano pads B1KER used were metallic or resin. But I don't use Shimano resin as they don't bite well. Compared to metallic it's almost liike having contaminated. brakes. But the semi mettalic trp pads performed well. I forgot to tell about another option some upgrade to, Swiss Stop, not tried my self.
I do. I started pulling the pads out for washes and cleaning the discs off after as well. But I’m back to just washing and not removing anything, and I think its just a case of the sram metallic pads are inconsistent with their bite until heat is introduced. The shimano stuff I can wash and the bite never really changes. Definitely my preferred brakes
Hey guys im currently runnings sram 200mm centreline rotors but want to try shimano 203mm ice tech rotors do i need a new spacer /adapter for my caliper like a 23mm adapter???
Took me ages to get sram brakes acceptable. Key steps were to ‘exercise’ the pistons and pressurise the calliper with the bleed syringe. You can fix contaminated pads with a blow torch. Put the pads in a vice and gently run a blow torch flame over them. I use a gas soldering iron blow torch attachment. The contamination burns off and the pads are like new
Interesting - Been running Guides & IceTechs on my sons Hardtail, and couldn't really notice much in it Vs my old bike (Guides & Centrelines). Threw a 200 on the rear of the Slash, OMG so much better than the 180 with the stock Code Metal Pads. Always found the rear needed more input to get the same response/grab/bite as the front. Now they much more feel balanced. Keep up the great vids!
It seems to me that the centerline is thicker than the XT. It makes you feel like you're braking more, as the contact point is higher and has more material for heat dissipation. Also noticeable when you exchange an old disk for a new one of the same brand, even with the old pads. The brake improves considerably. I use the XT at the front. One day I borrowed a wheel and I had a centerline. It seemed to brake a lot better. My Disk was more used than his. So I believe that because the centerline is 2mm thick and the XT 1.8mm, the centerline has greater braking power. What do you think? regards
That makes sense. Wear and contamination are big factors in the performance, and you may be right. The centreline is a little thicker which aldo makes it less prone to warping or bending. I rode a bike with new code r and centrelines and the stopping power was excellent. So on reflection I’d say the centrelines are at least as good as the xt
Hi. Nice video. Can you test the new SRAM HS2 rotor in comparison to the SRAM Centerline AND the Shimano XT rotor? The HS2 rotor is thicker than both of the rotors you tested in this video. Greetings...
I Just installed a 220H2S On the Front with a Saint and MTX Pads . Seems Better another few more km to get the setup right . Definitely more bite than the 1.8 / 203 I had on 😎
Not anything that I’ve noticed. I find the full XT setup is very good at not boiling and fading, but I believe that to be a combo of all things not just the rotors
I've seen videos with these two rotors sqeeking like a siren or screaming cats. I wonder if the venting holes have something to do with it. I don't get this with Hope floating rotors, but they have pretty good braking surface, vending hole design, but I am curious how much better Brakestuff rotors would be and if not having a alu spider would effect it or if they will actually be better than Hope floating rotors. 🤔
@@mtbtelly5522 OK, thx for reply. what I saw was vids of American dry conditions in the summer in desert and bare rock no puddles mud, water. They howled horribly. Like they wet brakes do, but mabye its heat, the design of holes, the size of rotor, pad compound, some combo or one of these things. Pad material might have something to do with it. 🤔 B1KER uses shimano ice tech rotors, and some other UA-cam had sram centerline rotors I forgot who.
From Shimano Ice Technology Rotor: Clad rotors as well as Clad Brake pads significantly reduce heat build-up in the brake system. This in turn reduces fading, which ensures consistent high performance even on long downhill stretches, It also results in a longer pad life and substantially quieter braking. Note: Shimano has a graph showing that a Ice rotor has the same-to +5% initial braking force as a non-Ice rotor, and that the Ice technology helps maintains that braking force better over time. But really, they just look cooler, pun...
If both rotors are not new and your pads are not new then you will get flawed results. Both pad and rotor must be new to get a true performance indicator
Thats true. But I also wanteda real situational test also to see whats good. New rotor and pad up front was excellent bite, new rotor old contaminated pad had shit bite out back. I’m also sure now that the Shimano pad has better performance than the sram pads
Whatever you try, get away from Formula monolitic rotors(for Cura brakes)...At moderate braking, excellent braking power, but at stronger braking there is an unpleasant sound, as if rotor will fall apart..
Was going to buy the shimano xt 8120 until i read the new slx m7120 are the same brakes but built in diff materials weighing 60grams more. Went for the slx and save abt usd 50 bucks for beers. The slx doesnt hv the pad contact adjuster tht the xt has but my past experience with shimano"s contact adjusters are tht they are pretty useless.
Centreline rotors are superior to ice tech rotors in every way. I run centrelines and ice techs (guide and XT’s all on 203 rotors) and couldn’t under why I had more power with centrelines when swapping wheels but a German magazine did a test and centrelines have better stopping power out of all the rotors tested with ice techs being one of the worst when tested in a machine. Not only to they offer better braking but they last way longer. I’ve got centrelines from 2014 I still use where I never get more than 12 months out of ice techs which warp as soon as you get any heat into them and unlike centrelines you can’t bend them back. Ice techs look cooler though which is all that matters.
The icetech rotors are not about "stronger" braking right off the hop. They are about staying cooler over the course of a long downhill. Hence the name.
@snootchiebootchies27 I think this way. For power it depends on your brake lever. For example saint against code. I understandard rotor is more on heat dissipation esp on long descend. I love my hope rotors for long descend and I want to try ice tech rotors to see if it will not toast brake sets
Somehow you always seem to make a video about a subject that i. myself, have been thinking about! Thanks for the vid mate
For real, he always has videos on obscure stuff that other channels don’t cover
Good thoughts and vid mate. I had the Code R's with the same centrelines and went Icetech 203mm Rotors like you have front and rear and it was a HUGE difference. I also put on the 8100-XT Brakes and Less fade, more control, more feel, seems easier to maintain and clean also. I am pretty fastidious with my rig being clean (being a Detailer). I am really happy with my Icetech and XT Combo. And yes, being a bigger guy it helps that bit more also.
Thats a solid setup, yeah like you I may end up with a full XT setup in the end for max performance
I love my icetec rotors, like you said the bite is great! Being a clean freak and washing my
Bike so often I always find myself ruining pads! I’m running the mt5’s worth a try if you like brake modulation 👍🏼
very good pint good man, really appreciate your test
Running the same setup - code Rs and icetechs (admittedly did it for aesthetic purposes)... Loving it. I usually use brake cleaner after washing the bike - nothing but consistency. Can't stand the floating bite point on the Shimano brakes that I've run.
love the vids man
✌🏼✌🏼👌🏽
Love my XT on IceTech rotors on my Canyon Strive. Running a 203 rear too because I’m a draught horse, not a galloper. I suds my bike up with ArmourAll car wash pretty regularly and don’t really think it stuffs my pads. I ride it down the road wet and they just hook up.
Ah killer. I might change suds andsee if theres a difference
did you felt any difference during long descents when you tried the XT rotors? (since it's advertised the IceTech helps them cool down faster)
⭐️ ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Got the RSC and centrelines 180 /200.
Coming from BMX brakes, was amazed how hard MTB brakes go !
I’m pretty light so haven’t noticed fade from heat yet.
Maybe I’m not fast enough like you 5 star 😂🤘👑🔥
As long as you keep them free of contamination they’re killer for us lightweights.
Mate, next test in this line-up me thinks is a 220mm Centreline. Been running them now on the Code R for a couple months, brilliant. Best brake set-up ive ridden yet.
Code R with f220/r220
I think my next trial is to drop the organics for semi pads.
You still on the organics? Pad change might make you go back to a 200 out back. You got a lot of stopping power on that horse! But more braking power is almost always a good thing
Just tried 203 rotors icetech on my codes RSc(had to put a 1 mm spacers on the adapter thought) and MTX pads red lablel.... just bed in those yesterday.... looking forward to really try these ceramic pads !!
hi, man! How result? I wanna tried this setup on my bike
@@alba5968
Great set up … was working great
But now that hs2 I’ll arrive no need to change
@@cg1983 thanks for answer! Stock pads code rsc can be used with rotors xt8000?(if put a 1 mm spacers on the adapter thought) or spacers need only for red pads MTX?
Hey im sure this' has already been said but you should have put Magura's Storm HC rotors on there.. I did that with my RSC's and switched to Galfer performance pads or Trickstuff pads Both combined with the thicker rotors boosted the RSC's outright power, at least that's what i felt. I have since changed over to the Shigura setup. And oh boy these brakes are fkn amazing! The outright power is scary but i didnt realize how much i prefer the shimano bite over the Code's bite. My hands are not as sore after a few dh laps as they used to be which is a big deal for me.
I definitely recommend trying these out.
I like the technology in shimano rotors, the aluminum core absorbs heat away from the steel outer. Steel holds heat much more than alloy, Every time I wash my bike with wax I loose braking power and have to bed the brakes back in, but ive started to find its no so much the wax, but more the fact im washing the brake dust off, because if I wipe my rotor down with metho spirits without washing my bike I loose braking power as well until the brake dust gets back on the rotor. Anyway lately I leave my bike dirty for a few rides so I know I have consistent brakes
Ah thats a thought on the brake dust. I’ve been rinsing but no suds, brakes have been pretty consistent so far
Hey, actually the brake dust will create a "coating" on the disk which is needed for having the full braking power. It can be washed off very easily and then needs to rebuild by braking in again. I do NOT clean my brake disk rotors in between the bike washes. I don't wash my bike often, but if i went through the mud i will clean it immediately after the ride. Works very well this way.
@@andreas.2 hey, I agree. Thats sort of what I said in my comment is its not really the wax that's contaminating my brakes after a wash, its more than im washing the dry brake dust away that causes my brakes to become weak. Ive been washing my bike a lot less lately :)
When I bought my SRAM Code R’s, SRAM instructions stated I need to use a “1” piece rotor, so that is why I use Avid G2 (basically Centerline) brakes and NOT the IceTech style…. 🇺🇸
i prefer shimano stuff. I much rather have a brake system that uses mineral oil than dot fluid. Both my bikes running Guide RE brakes will eventually have TRP or something else. I just wish shimano and trp would have bite adjustment like the code's do that actually work.
Shimano, they wear out quick but they are great!
Watching here bro… nice
You should try the Galfer pads and rotors, made a night/day difference for my Code setup. Great vid also 👍🏻
I’d like to try their setup
Does my plan fit shimano Ice tech with nice thick pads
I struggled with pad contamination for the longest time, and now i just wash my bike with water. I just stopped giving a shit about having it look clean
It seems to be the best way if you want perfect brakes
When you say stronger... you’re actually meaning better 😉
I am interested in Brakestuff rotors they have thicker rotor, a lot ofnsmaller venting holes, no spider.
Check out the MTX Braking Red Label Race pads for the Sram codes if you're wanting to try something different. Been running them with the standard avid centerline rotors for about 3 months now and like them alot. MTX and Fanatik Bike sell them.
Running sram code RSC with red MTX pads and galfer wave disk 👌🏼 as good as full shimano xt set up with more modulation if that’s what you like
@@thomasgilbey1058 Nice. Ya I've been really happy with the MTX Red labels so far.
ice tech rotors seem to warp easily when over heated. but they do have great bite.
Ok, I’ll keep an eye on that
I have the XT Brakes with the SRAM centerline's. From what I can gather the Icetech wouldn't be a worthy upgrade. Now I hear the icetech could/would distribute/dissipate heat better over long downhill runs. What's your thoughts?
by the way, of the entire internet; your video's are some of the most helpful. Keep the great video's coming.
It doesn’t really make much difference. The aluminium spider on an ice tech rotor is designed to draw heat away from the breaking surface which it does but so does your hub and wheel that a centreline rotor is bolted to. It’s more of a gimmick that sounds like a good idea if you don’t think about it properly. Also aluminium rotors don’t stand up to heat well as is warp and won’t spring back to its natural original shape like a steel rotor. When aluminium cools wrapped it stays like that.
Why sram rotors with xt brakes?
I've had good bite with Hope tech flosting rotors, cools well, I've tried with Shimano j04c pads, trp semi metallic/red pads. Good bite with both. I probably don't need 180nresr and 203 front, but had to go 180 rear on new bike so reused the front rotors as rear on G1. But one of the 180 rotors has creaky rivets after years of use. I found the semi metallic trp pads to bite at least good as the j04c, but they don't crack, seems like gravel might be ruining the j04c pads eventually. 🤔
Interesting about the shimano pads
@@mtbtelly5522 I have pics of it. I kept cracking them, I am not sure why but I think the pad material is not robust enough. Good bite but not perfect pads. But I am on mechanical brakes now nd haven't used shimano brakes in a long time, I will try other brands, I wanted to try Formula Cura 4 but out of stock everywhere, or it's only rear brake people tell me but I don't know if it's actually one or two brakes. But strange if only rear brakes are sold. 😁 In Norway there are only 3 options, Trp , Shimano , Sram, but one retailer only orders brakes on order, but he can get Braking brakes, TrickStuff, but last mentioned is 12 to 15 months wait.
I want brakes i don't have to adjust barrel adjuster on, I tried Loctite 243, I will see how it goes buy does not look like it will eliminate loosening completely. Also have to add Loctite at pad adjustment too i us etrp Spyke. Brake levers have playwhen new but I had to swap out one set of levers cus of dead throw, due to worn bushings, not found a way to replace the bushings yet. Axle probably has to be punched out, or need some sort of press. But power is good. But not tried four piston brakes yet so I am keen to do so. I've seen that Trickstuff claims their pads beat original pads, they have pads for other brakes, Shimano. Hope for example. Not tried any of it.
@@mtbboy1993 I’m curious about after market pads
@@mtbtelly5522 I don't know if the th shimano pads B1KER used were metallic or resin. But I don't use Shimano resin as they don't bite well. Compared to metallic it's almost liike having contaminated. brakes. But the semi mettalic trp pads performed well. I forgot to tell about another option some upgrade to, Swiss Stop, not tried my self.
nice bike!
Do you still use the ct18 for the bike? If not what now?
I do. I started pulling the pads out for washes and cleaning the discs off after as well. But I’m back to just washing and not removing anything, and I think its just a case of the sram metallic pads are inconsistent with their bite until heat is introduced. The shimano stuff I can wash and the bite never really changes. Definitely my preferred brakes
Hey guys im currently runnings sram 200mm centreline rotors but want to try shimano 203mm ice tech rotors do i need a new spacer /adapter for my caliper like a 23mm adapter???
Just a 1.5mm washer on eachbolt under the existing adapter will space you out enough for everything to work
@@mtbtelly5522 ahhhh kk thanks heaps
Ice techs warp
It'd be a better comparison to try the centreline vs sram floating brake rotors I forgot what they're called
Centerline x, but they only come in 180 max
Took me ages to get sram brakes acceptable. Key steps were to ‘exercise’ the pistons and pressurise the calliper with the bleed syringe. You can fix contaminated pads with a blow torch. Put the pads in a vice and gently run a blow torch flame over them. I use a gas soldering iron blow torch attachment. The contamination burns off and the pads are like new
Thank! I’ll do that and see if I can bring them back
Interesting - Been running Guides & IceTechs on my sons Hardtail, and couldn't really notice much in it Vs my old bike (Guides & Centrelines).
Threw a 200 on the rear of the Slash, OMG so much better than the 180 with the stock Code Metal Pads.
Always found the rear needed more input to get the same response/grab/bite as the front.
Now they much more feel balanced.
Keep up the great vids!
Nice! 200 out back would be pleasant
@@mtbtelly5522 throw that big icetech out back and give it a go ;)
Might be a bit pinchy in your rocky loose terrain(?) - ymmv
@@GLOBc I’ll get fresh pads on the 180 first then I’ll step to a bigger rotor out back
It seems to me that the centerline is thicker than the XT. It makes you feel like you're braking more, as the contact point is higher and has more material for heat dissipation. Also noticeable when you exchange an old disk for a new one of the same brand, even with the old pads. The brake improves considerably. I use the XT at the front. One day I borrowed a wheel and I had a centerline. It seemed to brake a lot better. My Disk was more used than his. So I believe that because the centerline is 2mm thick and the XT 1.8mm, the centerline has greater braking power. What do you think?
regards
That makes sense. Wear and contamination are big factors in the performance, and you may be right. The centreline is a little thicker which aldo makes it less prone to warping or bending. I rode a bike with new code r and centrelines and the stopping power was excellent. So on reflection I’d say the centrelines are at least as good as the xt
👍🤔will the sram centreline rotors run sintered pads, or organic only🤔?
Yep, any pads you like
what length of stem you run ?
40mm
Hi. Nice video. Can you test the new SRAM HS2 rotor in comparison to the SRAM Centerline AND the Shimano XT rotor? The HS2 rotor is thicker than both of the rotors you tested in this video. Greetings...
Yep, I’ll try them out when I get the chance.
I Just installed a 220H2S On the Front with a Saint and MTX Pads . Seems Better another few more km to get the setup right . Definitely more bite than the 1.8 / 203 I had on 😎
What about cooling properties, did you notice something?
Not anything that I’ve noticed. I find the full XT setup is very good at not boiling and fading, but I believe that to be a combo of all things not just the rotors
@@mtbtelly5522 i'm asking because i saw a video where they said the weak point of sram braking systems is the rotor
@@eliasdanieli5461 I would believe it, but I’m not sure exactly how to quantify it
@@eliasdanieli5461 which rotors were they using? and which sram system?
I've seen videos with these two rotors sqeeking like a siren or screaming cats. I wonder if the venting holes have something to do with it. I don't get this with Hope floating rotors, but they have pretty good braking surface, vending hole design, but I am curious how much better Brakestuff rotors would be and if not having a alu spider would effect it or if they will actually be better than Hope floating rotors. 🤔
I’m not sure, I haven’t had any trouble with noise yet. They howl when wet which is expected, but quiet under normal use
@@mtbtelly5522 OK, thx for reply. what I saw was vids of American dry conditions in the summer in desert and bare rock no puddles mud, water. They howled horribly. Like they wet brakes do, but mabye its heat, the design of holes, the size of rotor, pad compound, some combo or one of these things. Pad material might have something to do with it. 🤔 B1KER uses shimano ice tech rotors, and some other UA-cam had sram centerline rotors I forgot who.
@@mtbtelly5522 mabye they got the brakes wet somehow and rode in dry conditions on video. 🤔
@@mtbboy1993 maybe got some desert grit on the disc/pad and has cut whistling grooves in the surface
@@mtbtelly5522 but how should that make such sound? I suspect Tha twould jsut make scratching sounds. 🤔
I run shimano deore brake metal pads with sram rotors hs2 awesome power u need mucoff brake cover help out with brake and mucoff wash no problems
Which is better for XC rides?
Tektro rotors
Rotors glaze. Im not a fan of my codes looking to upgrade just the rear lever to an rsc. If no joy im going back to caliper brakes
From Shimano
Ice Technology Rotor:
Clad rotors as well as Clad Brake pads significantly reduce heat build-up in the brake system. This in turn reduces fading, which ensures consistent high performance even on long downhill stretches, It also results in a longer pad life and substantially quieter braking.
Note: Shimano has a graph showing that a Ice rotor has the same-to +5% initial braking force as a non-Ice rotor, and that the Ice technology helps maintains that braking force better over time. But really, they just look cooler, pun...
I prefer Shimano brakes with Centerline rotors. I plan on trying the TRP rotors with some Saints next.
Interesting
I SAW THE LIGTWEIGHT ROTOR, CHEAP AND GOOD BUILD AT CHANNEL THE KARARANGGES
If both rotors are not new and your pads are not new then you will get flawed results. Both pad and rotor must be new to get a true performance indicator
Thats true. But I also wanteda real situational test also to see whats good. New rotor and pad up front was excellent bite, new rotor old contaminated pad had shit bite out back. I’m also sure now that the Shimano pad has better performance than the sram pads
TRP DHR EVO, you won’t look back, 2.3mm thick rotors.
Thats a lot of dollar signs. I’ll try test a set
@@mtbtelly5522 Yea, not sure if you can get them in Oz at the moment, but they are worth the money imo 👍🏼
rt76 for the win
About getting something cheap... Your probably going to have to wait until supply catches up with this crazy market...
Yep, maybe some SLX
Shimano= better thats the conclusion ! :)
I’ve found the cut out on the shimano rotors clean the pads better than the sram rotors.
Whatever you try, get away from Formula monolitic rotors(for Cura brakes)...At moderate braking, excellent braking power, but at stronger braking there is an unpleasant sound, as if rotor will fall apart..
Thanks for the heads up!
Was going to buy the shimano xt 8120 until i read the new slx m7120 are the same brakes but built in diff materials weighing 60grams more. Went for the slx and save abt usd 50 bucks for beers. The slx doesnt hv the pad contact adjuster tht the xt has but my past experience with shimano"s contact adjusters are tht they are pretty useless.
shram rotors
Centreline rotors are superior to ice tech rotors in every way. I run centrelines and ice techs (guide and XT’s all on 203 rotors) and couldn’t under why I had more power with centrelines when swapping wheels but a German magazine did a test and centrelines have better stopping power out of all the rotors tested with ice techs being one of the worst when tested in a machine. Not only to they offer better braking but they last way longer. I’ve got centrelines from 2014 I still use where I never get more than 12 months out of ice techs which warp as soon as you get any heat into them and unlike centrelines you can’t bend them back. Ice techs look cooler though which is all that matters.
Best way to clean rotors is to put them in the dishwasher burn off metallic pads and stick them in there too and you should be sorted.
Thats interesting, thanks for the info!
Link the German magazine test. Don't just come here typing bs.
lets face it shimano is better than sram
Yes in terms of brake system. 😆