@@tylergarza8695 ignorant of what? I have to be aware of what needs maintaining and see when something fails enough to try something new. Do you put this much thought into your car your mental health your body? Being aware that looking for the endless source of potential problems with things mechanical or biological is far from ignorant, accepting it and living your life instead is what I'm suggesting. Getting sucked into this mindset is ignorant.
Yeah i'm running the Ice-tech rotors atm, I did wonder how long they will last with only a thin sliver of steel each side... Do you run resin or sintered metal pads to get this level of wear?
Can't say for the other guy but I live on the hilly bits of hong kong island, from what I can tell it's where peak torque is based too so yea I'll definitely be snatching up a few rotors from him the second they go up for sale
This video answered all my questions about disc brakes. And i learned a lot more than i asked for. Cheers brother! Im shifting to disc brakes this month as sponsors are now supplying us disc brake bikes, and im already having nightmares on how to maintain them, let alone the cost
1.5 years ago, I got a disc brake road/endurance bike ... w/ Campy 160 rotors front & rear. After 6 months, I was occasionally stopping to "re-center" the pads while on rides. After 1.5 years, the rotors are slightly "warped". If I had had to replace them at 6 months as Peak Torque reported, I'd go crazy. More importantly, I believe good rim brakes are better for road bikes because of the KISS factor, reliability, and durability. I've had Campy Record rim brakes, so I can't comment on Shimano quality. I bought my first C-Record bike in 1962. I NEVER had any problems over the last 30 years/6k miles per year with good rim brakes. They stopped as well as my current discs, pads lasted longer than disc pads, and close to zero maintenance. Disc brakes = 1) re-centering, 2) quicker wear, 3) more parts, 4) more cost, 5) warping, 6) special tools, 7) hydraulics & bleeding. For ROAD, I consider discs a solution to a problem that never existed. Gravel is a different application though, and I'm not talking about MTBs.
Great explanation again, making it understandable for everyone! My new bike frame arrives late August, will put winspace hyper wheels on them, so I will need new disc brakes also... Hoping to see yours available by then!
I’ve been saying for a while now (as a non engineer) that I think the ice tech isn’t the best. That’s from using them for years and experiencing the ‘warping’, the ticking etc and I could only put it down to the aluminium sandwich construction. Thanks so much for doing the video. You’ll have an order from me 100%.
Very excited to follow that project 👍🏻 Went back to my “old” rim brake bike after being on discs for a while - not just because of being annoyed by the brakes, but it sure is nice to have one thing less that needs fine-tuning all the time
Exactly...part of why I ride is a ‘simple’ mechanical interface, peaceful rides (I prefer quite hubs), and a ‘back 2 basics’ experience...discs, 2 much electrical equipment etc detracts from that~
@@SprayIgniteBoom I had this realisation recently while considering DI2.. I already get annoyed with keeping the head unit charged and pairing sensors, why add another battery etc to the list!
Fascinated to see what you come up with versus what Shimano has in the pipeline with Dura-Ace 9200 brakes (and the context of Chris Froome's comments on disc brakes)
Considering their cranks have been failing for years due to poor design and they have not attempted to rectify the issue, they will probably not have any improvements in the pipeline.
Great project, I look forward to hearing more! I have had similar issues with ice tech rotors- go out of true with the high heat on road, get bumped on the mtb. For reference, I am now using the slx/105 RT70 rotors with zero issues. Seems to behave like a six bolt, just pinned onto the centerlock spider instead of using bolts.
Great vid, always been suspicious of the amount of material on these rotors to disapate the heat. We already know carbon rim brakes exceed 200C so having a much smaller disc makes the disappation of heat even harder. Interesting to see what you come up with. 👍
Good analysis. I use SLX RT-70 centerlock rotors on MTB (160 and 180mm). Reasonably priced and never had an issue. Cheers and keep up the excellent content.
Very interesting topic and project. I was looking into Campagnolo rotors too and I'm looking forward to hear your impressions. Can't wait for the PT rotors ;)
Happy to provide input from my experience on Campy rotors over the 2-3 yrs I have on my All Roadie, along with the full steel Magura Storm rotors I have on my HT. Haven't had any overheating issues on either including some very long descents (one fully loaded bike packing in the Angeles, California and Lake Mountain, Aus). I'm a nervous decender so brake often but let them off so I don't cook the brakes. I've cooked rim brakes in the past (koolstop salmons) but feel more confident with discs.
if your just going to laser cut solid piece - maybe inconel or hastelloy would be a good choice if you can get some offcuts? Really like your engineering knowledge - exceptional for such a young fella! Just remember to try your prototype on the rear wheel first before trying it on the front.
Interesting. 6 months life for rotors is crazy! My bike came with RT99 rotors which I replaced at approx 17500 miles, or about 3 set of pads. I replaced them with R8000, and your video prompted me to check them - the rear is at 1.5mm after approx 6700 miles, so the lifespan has been worse! The Campag ones look better value so I will probably go that route too. Nice watch by the way, I have one of those myself!
I'd buy some, but i think most people would be upset when their disks had rust on them. I'd be willing to guess that a surprising percentage of even the most expensive road bikes only get used a few times a year. I also think this push to make disk brake bikes as light as rim brake bikes so they can stop making rim brake bikes forces them to make rotors that don't have the mass they need to work right.
Agreed, rust would be a no go for me and I'd also like to see more road bike (centerlock) discs w/ thicker friction ring (i.e. >=2.0mm) for more mechanical and thermal stability.
Haha the expression at @2:37...Me every time I'm getting dropped on a climb and I blame it on the brakes rubbing. I'm totally interested in the project.
Great video! What do you think about using a ceramic fiber paper between the rotor and the spider? They have great thermal properties and would break the thermal bridge
£200 a year on discs? Wow, just wow. I'll stick to Campag Super Record and Record rim callipers (which are a bargain compared to the SR with just a 15g weight penalty). Though I suppose to be fair I should discount the cost of replacing the rims eventually! Really enjoy your content. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Interesting project, looking forward to findings. I have brand new 105 disc set 6 bolt one piece style and at 900 miles I've been extremely pleased with performance and not one complaint, I clean them every other ride and the wheels have not been off the bike since new or in and out of the car so bumping them hasn't happened. I am also very aware of braking technique to shed heat, never ride the brakes, I do 3-5 seconds at the most breaking at any given time, on fast DH hard break let off wait hard brake let off style.
Any update on how you like the Campy rotors? I need new rotors and am thinking to try the campy as well, if you still recommend them. And how are the ones you are designing are going?
I ride 800+ miles per month and my Shimano rotors still have tons of life left. However, they do tend to warp slightly but nothing I can't fix in a couple of minutes.
@@mihugong3153 I've used both the Dura-Ace SM-RT900 and the Ultegra SM-RT800 rotors. Both work great and I've had no wear issues using both of them for thousands of miles.
That potential delamination issue is actually kind of terrifying. Will definitely be taking a look at my Ultegra rotors later today. Have absolutely experienced that same thing with the post-application rub following a short, sharp descent. They probably already have 7000+ km on them at this point.
My son recently had an Ultegra rotor fail after about 6 months use. The failure in his case was caused by the aluminium "cooling fins" becoming distorted meaning they rubbed on either side of the caliper. The stainless part was less affected. A complaint to the retsiler said was responded to with "no warranty claim as you were "dragging your brakes"". My son has excrllent descrnding skills snd mskes much less use of his brakes than i do (i am a BC qualified coach so i know how to observe these things...until he gets out of site!). I will be definitely switching back to full steel rotors after watching this. Thank you.
Thanks for this, good info and video. What Campy rotors did you fit? I'm looking at 160mm center lock rotors to replace mine. I would also be interested in your own rotors too.
Great shot of the steel laminate separating from the aluminum core. Mid-vid PT referenced 250 degree temps at the center-lock/hub interface. Does this temp reflect real world conditions?
Very cool (no pun intended!) and informative video. I'm now doing a thorough check of my Dura Ace rotors! Interested to see the final design of your own rotors and might be interested in giving them a try!
Hello there, so after watching your vid, I bought into the same Ekar db-160/140 rotors and noticed quite good amount of play back & forth while squeezing the brakes (lock rings were torqued down to 40nm). After some checking, it turned out the centerlock spline tolerances of the Ekar rotors aren't as close as my Shimano Dura-ace ones. With the lock ring loosened I could tell the difference in the amount of play twisting the rotor back and forth. If I remount the DA rotors the play goes away. I was wondering if you have this issue on your setup as well? Is it of any concern? Cheers
would the fact that they are made from aluminum and steel laminated together cause warping and delamination when ht like an old fashion bi metal heat gauge ?
In my experience (25+ years bicycle mechanic) the pad clearance issue in at least 50% of problematic cases comes from "overfilled" disc brakes. Most common directly from the bike factories. Great explanations that need more spreading to customers (which I will do at work). Keep on the good work! Greets to the 5 year old 😎
Thanks Peak Torque very interesting. I was wondering if you think there is also a potential problem of your carbon spokes on your Hyper wheels heating up. Do you this could potentially melt the glue?
thanks for the info,still on rim brakes myself for road. I shall watch with interest. running Deore discs on my 29er mtb,seem to be ok with 2 or 3 rides a week.
an efficient rotor would be, perhaps the size of the actual wheel rim, with an efficient and simple calliper type system applying the pads to the surface. You could even use the actual wheel rim. Maybe one day, manufacturers will decide we need that
Impressive amount of comments here on disc brake performance or lack there of! I've not personally experienced any delam issues with any of my disc brake bikes other than annoying rubbing after long descents. I would be interested in trying your new steel rotors. I saw a few comments about the XTR on the road as well, from reading the Shimano technical manual they do not recommend using MTB rotors on road bikes.
I have just removed my shimano durace rotors and gone to campy and quiet and smooth braking, but the stopping power on the ultegra brake pads arent that great what type of pads do you use. Thanks.
Brighter colour reflects more light than it absorbs, effectively functioning as a solar sail. If Pogacar had frosted tips he'd be breaking the 1000W FTP barrier
What simulation software are you using? What are you defining your boundary conditions regarding temperature? I’d be interested to see how the heat conducts through steel rather than through dissimilar metals
Hi! Do MTB calipers have a bit more clearance than road calipers? My road bike has GRX levers paired with Deore M6000 calipers because the frame has IS mounts, and I rarely have disc rubs after long descents. The SLX rotors though are a bit flexy, I have to tru them sometimes and it does not take a lot of force to bend them.
Wish I had seen this video a couple of days ago before I purchased a pair of the same Shimano rotors...which is probably why this video appeared in my feed.
Hi PT May I ask if you are using complete DA including the pads? I somehow curious if Shimano really design their system without defining which one is the replaceable consumables ( disc or pads, cannot be both) and normally should be the cheaper ones? Ta
Thanks for your nice explanation, now I know why my 105 rotors rub/make an annoying noice when I ride in the rain or during descends. A couple of bike shops told me that they advice everyone to go with the “SwissStop Catalyst” rotors. Yes they are heavier but they don’t have the warping issue & last way longer
I use catalyst rotors on my gravel bike... They last long, nearly 10000km in them and still some life left... However on long descends they undergo the same issue when heat starts to build up and they rub...then come back to place when cool down...
I currently have Ultegra rotors. I suppose they have less issues because the cooling surface is a lot bigger? They're almost solid with just a few holes. Can't say much about the wear as I haven't been riding that much because in the last year... because of reasons. Previously I had basic six bolt steel rotors and they lasted a few years. Curious to see what design you come up with.
I have been using AFS 03 rotors for a few months now. One thing I noticed is that the rotor feels soft when installed with some third-party internal spline lockring. It appears that because these rotor were designed for AFS, their crown face area is slightly larger than the lockring of the usual size. ZIPP's 160mm lockring solves that problem (ZIPP has two sizes of lockrings, but both uses external spline).
@Peak Torque do you think centrelock is the way to go for MTB hubs and rotors, or is 6 bolt still a good and reliable standard? Also, do the centrelock adaptors that allow the use of six bolt rotors increase the risk of misalignment or instability? are some brand adaptors better than others? Cheers
You have brought tremendous value to cyclists with your experience and channel
This ^, I have learned so much and am really grateful for this channel making me a more aware consumer and home mechanic
What? Just ride your bike and replace the parts that wear or break.
@@aaron___6014 ... ignorant
@@tylergarza8695 ignorant of what? I have to be aware of what needs maintaining and see when something fails enough to try something new. Do you put this much thought into your car your mental health your body? Being aware that looking for the endless source of potential problems with things mechanical or biological is far from ignorant, accepting it and living your life instead is what I'm suggesting. Getting sucked into this mindset is ignorant.
100% up for supporting your discs. That goes for any other products you have in mind going forward. I value your straight talking info massively 👌
Looking forward to the peak torque disc brakes 👍
Peak Stop brakes
@@basedgodstrugglin still a torque aint it
Yeah i'm running the Ice-tech rotors atm, I did wonder how long they will last with only a thin sliver of steel each side... Do you run resin or sintered metal pads to get this level of wear?
I just found your channel and I have to say, you are quite good at this. This video was great, and very informative! Thank you.
This seems very interesting, looking forward to seeing the progress!
I'm super excited to see how much better you can make rotors compared to what's available now. I will definitely buy a set when its available.
It will cost 150 pounds and last about 3 months and the constant of re adjusting the rotors and calipers so it doesn’t rub 😂 made in ali china 🤣
I’m down to see a set. Plus loved the tech knowledge offered in the video. Keep in coming.
I would buy your rotors right away when they come up for sale
Just because some guy on youtube burns his rotors up in the super steep mountains of asia doesn't mean yours will fail too.
Can't say for the other guy but I live on the hilly bits of hong kong island, from what I can tell it's where peak torque is based too so yea I'll definitely be snatching up a few rotors from him the second they go up for sale
This video answered all my questions about disc brakes. And i learned a lot more than i asked for. Cheers brother! Im shifting to disc brakes this month as sponsors are now supplying us disc brake bikes, and im already having nightmares on how to maintain them, let alone the cost
1.5 years ago, I got a disc brake road/endurance bike ... w/ Campy 160 rotors front & rear. After 6 months, I was occasionally stopping to "re-center" the pads while on rides. After 1.5 years, the rotors are slightly "warped". If I had had to replace them at 6 months as Peak Torque reported, I'd go crazy. More importantly, I believe good rim brakes are better for road bikes because of the KISS factor, reliability, and durability. I've had Campy Record rim brakes, so I can't comment on Shimano quality. I bought my first C-Record bike in 1962. I NEVER had any problems over the last 30 years/6k miles per year with good rim brakes. They stopped as well as my current discs, pads lasted longer than disc pads, and close to zero maintenance. Disc brakes = 1) re-centering, 2) quicker wear, 3) more parts, 4) more cost, 5) warping, 6) special tools, 7) hydraulics & bleeding. For ROAD, I consider discs a solution to a problem that never existed. Gravel is a different application though, and I'm not talking about MTBs.
Sanaol may sponsor
I’d be interested in a set - great work, loving the channel 👊
Yeah mate I’ll be down to have a pair, good stuff👍
A pleasant surprise you have anything Campagnolo on your bike. Before you know, you'll turn 40 and have a full super record gruppo installed :-)
It would be awesome to also try Swissstop after the Campy and do a comparison
I'd be happy to chip in via patreon paypal or some such so @peak torque can test them
@@lechprotean great idea.
@PeakTorque I jyst saw this vid 3 yrs late, what happened to the rotors?
Thank you! For years I have held the opinion that the rotor offerings were inadequate. Great video!!
Great explanation again, making it understandable for everyone! My new bike frame arrives late August, will put winspace hyper wheels on them, so I will need new disc brakes also... Hoping to see yours available by then!
Don't even have disc brakes but instantly got reeled in this very informative piece.
I’ve been saying for a while now (as a non engineer) that I think the ice tech isn’t the best. That’s from using them for years and experiencing the ‘warping’, the ticking etc and I could only put it down to the aluminium sandwich construction. Thanks so much for doing the video. You’ll have an order from me 100%.
Carbon ceramic brakes! If you survive the first hairpin, you'll get great braking on the second! 😂😂😂
No you just warm up snaking back and forth with your brakes pulled
Very excited to follow that project 👍🏻 Went back to my “old” rim brake bike after being on discs for a while - not just because of being annoyed by the brakes, but it sure is nice to have one thing less that needs fine-tuning all the time
Same.
Exactly...part of why I ride is a ‘simple’ mechanical interface, peaceful rides (I prefer quite hubs), and a ‘back 2 basics’ experience...discs, 2 much electrical equipment etc detracts from that~
@@SprayIgniteBoom I had this realisation recently while considering DI2.. I already get annoyed with keeping the head unit charged and pairing sensors, why add another battery etc to the list!
"You just didn't set the discs up properly"
@@durianriders 😂
Fascinated to see what you come up with versus what Shimano has in the pipeline with Dura-Ace 9200 brakes (and the context of Chris Froome's comments on disc brakes)
Considering their cranks have been failing for years due to poor design and they have not attempted to rectify the issue, they will probably not have any improvements in the pipeline.
Great project, I look forward to hearing more! I have had similar issues with ice tech rotors- go out of true with the high heat on road, get bumped on the mtb. For reference, I am now using the slx/105 RT70 rotors with zero issues. Seems to behave like a six bolt, just pinned onto the centerlock spider instead of using bolts.
Great vid, always been suspicious of the amount of material on these rotors to disapate the heat. We already know carbon rim brakes exceed 200C so having a much smaller disc makes the disappation of heat even harder. Interesting to see what you come up with. 👍
I like your scientific approach 🤙 Thanks mate 🙏
I'll be keeping an eye out for updates on your rotors. Your design priorities match my riding/functionality priorities.
I'd be super interested in this project. Can't offer any expertise, but would definitely buy one
Good analysis. I use SLX RT-70 centerlock rotors on MTB (160 and 180mm). Reasonably priced and never had an issue. Cheers and keep up the excellent content.
Roadies a dragging tiny rotors with tiny little callipers down mountain descent nonstop for miles.
I would defo try out your rotors. Keep us updated.
Very interesting topic and project. I was looking into Campagnolo rotors too and I'm looking forward to hear your impressions.
Can't wait for the PT rotors ;)
Happy to provide input from my experience on Campy rotors over the 2-3 yrs I have on my All Roadie, along with the full steel Magura Storm rotors I have on my HT. Haven't had any overheating issues on either including some very long descents (one fully loaded bike packing in the Angeles, California and Lake Mountain, Aus). I'm a nervous decender so brake often but let them off so I don't cook the brakes. I've cooked rim brakes in the past (koolstop salmons) but feel more confident with discs.
if your just going to laser cut solid piece - maybe inconel or hastelloy would be a good choice if you can get some offcuts?
Really like your engineering knowledge - exceptional for such a young fella! Just remember to try your prototype on the rear wheel first before trying it on the front.
Interesting. 6 months life for rotors is crazy! My bike came with RT99 rotors which I replaced at approx 17500 miles, or about 3 set of pads. I replaced them with R8000, and your video prompted me to check them - the rear is at 1.5mm after approx 6700 miles, so the lifespan has been worse! The Campag ones look better value so I will probably go that route too. Nice watch by the way, I have one of those myself!
Great engineer mindset! When its not in the market, create it!
I'd buy some, but i think most people would be upset when their disks had rust on them. I'd be willing to guess that a surprising percentage of even the most expensive road bikes only get used a few times a year. I also think this push to make disk brake bikes as light as rim brake bikes so they can stop making rim brake bikes forces them to make rotors that don't have the mass they need to work right.
Agreed, rust would be a no go for me and I'd also like to see more road bike (centerlock) discs w/ thicker friction ring (i.e. >=2.0mm) for more mechanical and thermal stability.
Haha the expression at @2:37...Me every time I'm getting dropped on a climb and I blame it on the brakes rubbing. I'm totally interested in the project.
Interested to see what product you come up with - could be interested! 👍🏼
Great video! What do you think about using a ceramic fiber paper between the rotor and the spider? They have great thermal properties and would break the thermal bridge
£200 a year on discs? Wow, just wow. I'll stick to Campag Super Record and Record rim callipers (which are a bargain compared to the SR with just a 15g weight penalty). Though I suppose to be fair I should discount the cost of replacing the rims eventually!
Really enjoy your content. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Awesome project! I’m almost sad I don’t have any disc brake bikes now^^
Interesting project, looking forward to findings. I have brand new 105 disc set 6 bolt one piece style and at 900 miles I've been extremely pleased with performance and not one complaint, I clean them every other ride and the wheels have not been off the bike since new or in and out of the car so bumping them hasn't happened. I am also very aware of braking technique to shed heat, never ride the brakes, I do 3-5 seconds at the most breaking at any given time, on fast DH hard break let off wait hard brake let off style.
Forgot to mention: only organic pads used.
Do you have any opinion on organic vs sintered pads?
stock shimano?
No fins???
Any update on how you like the Campy rotors? I need new rotors and am thinking to try the campy as well, if you still recommend them. And how are the ones you are designing are going?
Looking forward for your design
Great stuff, as usual
You got any recommendations on how to fix that squealing sound you've shown in your descending-clip?
I ride 800+ miles per month and my Shimano rotors still have tons of life left. However, they do tend to warp slightly but nothing I can't fix in a couple of minutes.
Yeah thisbguy is full of BS on his videos.
Now must be trying to start a business on a market full of the stuff for any given part.
I unsubscribed.
Hey Todd, which model of rotors are you using?
@@mihugong3153 I've used both the Dura-Ace SM-RT900 and the Ultegra SM-RT800 rotors. Both work great and I've had no wear issues using both of them for thousands of miles.
@@tccycling Cool, thanks for the info. I have XTRs on the way for my road bike, I guess I will try my luck :)
I ride and commute in only hills, I got 10 months out of my pads and rotors, that said I should have done them after prob 8 or 9
You're spot on. I've moved back to rim, fed up with them. Would love some PT disc though!
That potential delamination issue is actually kind of terrifying. Will definitely be taking a look at my Ultegra rotors later today. Have absolutely experienced that same thing with the post-application rub following a short, sharp descent. They probably already have 7000+ km on them at this point.
Great video, definitely interested in a pair
My son recently had an Ultegra rotor fail after about 6 months use. The failure in his case was caused by the aluminium "cooling fins" becoming distorted meaning they rubbed on either side of the caliper.
The stainless part was less affected. A complaint to the retsiler said was responded to with "no warranty claim as you were "dragging your brakes"". My son has excrllent descrnding skills snd mskes much less use of his brakes than i do (i am a BC qualified coach so i know how to observe these things...until he gets out of site!). I will be definitely switching back to full steel rotors after watching this. Thank you.
looking forward to your disc design Peak!
Thanks for this video mate, just in the nick of time as I was going to upgrade to some dura ace icetechs
Thanks for this, good info and video. What Campy rotors did you fit? I'm looking at 160mm center lock rotors to replace mine. I would also be interested in your own rotors too.
Any issues with pad overhang with this setup? I'm looking at putting Campy 160mm rotors on my 105 bike.
What is your thoughts on a 6 bolt all stainless steel rotor on an alloy centerlock rotor carrier?
Great shot of the steel laminate separating from the aluminum core. Mid-vid PT referenced 250 degree temps at the center-lock/hub interface. Does this temp reflect real world conditions?
Not sure yet. I've got a thermal camera for the next video.
Hey mate. I definitely would be interested. How far through are you?
Great idea, hopefully the tarnished inside/outside edges can still dispel the heat.
Very cool (no pun intended!) and informative video. I'm now doing a thorough check of my Dura Ace rotors! Interested to see the final design of your own rotors and might be interested in giving them a try!
Can't wait to see those discs of yours op.
Hello there, so after watching your vid, I bought into the same Ekar db-160/140 rotors and noticed quite good amount of play back & forth while squeezing the brakes (lock rings were torqued down to 40nm). After some checking, it turned out the centerlock spline tolerances of the Ekar rotors aren't as close as my Shimano Dura-ace ones. With the lock ring loosened I could tell the difference in the amount of play twisting the rotor back and forth. If I remount the DA rotors the play goes away. I was wondering if you have this issue on your setup as well? Is it of any concern? Cheers
Great video👍. My ultegra ice tech rotor rubbing in ascent and sprinting. When i swap for campagnolo it will sort out too?
would the fact that they are made from aluminum and steel laminated together cause warping and delamination when ht like an old fashion bi metal heat gauge ?
is it possible to put campy rotor on the sram red axs system?
Absolutely interested!
Interesting sounding project with your own design rotors. Would certainly be interested to try a set out!
+1
In my experience (25+ years bicycle mechanic) the pad clearance issue in at least 50% of problematic cases comes from "overfilled" disc brakes. Most common directly from the bike factories.
Great explanations that need more spreading to customers (which I will do at work).
Keep on the good work!
Greets to the 5 year old 😎
Hi. What do you mean with "overfilled" brakes? I think that psitons often don't fully retract because of overbleeding of the system
What about the hope floating rotor design, inst that another approach that would suit?
Had to subscribe for Peak Torque disc brake. Count me in!
Thanks Peak Torque very interesting. I was wondering if you think there is also a potential problem of your carbon spokes on your Hyper wheels heating up. Do you this could potentially melt the glue?
thanks for the info,still on rim brakes myself for road. I shall watch with interest. running Deore discs on my 29er mtb,seem to be ok with 2 or 3 rides a week.
an efficient rotor would be, perhaps the size of the actual wheel rim, with an efficient and simple calliper type system applying the pads to the surface. You could even use the actual wheel rim. Maybe one day, manufacturers will decide we need that
Which kind of break pads do you prefer? Organic or Steel?
Impressive amount of comments here on disc brake performance or lack there of! I've not personally experienced any delam issues with any of my disc brake bikes other than annoying rubbing after long descents. I would be interested in trying your new steel rotors. I saw a few comments about the XTR on the road as well, from reading the Shimano technical manual they do not recommend using MTB rotors on road bikes.
What sort of mileage are you getting from a set over the six months?
Omg super spot on. I thought its just me. Thank you sir.
Will the rust contaminate the brake pads? Will the stiff rotor be too brittle to lightly bend back into shape if lightly warped?
What do you think of the Hope RX CL design, using much bigger hollow pins ?
I have just removed my shimano durace rotors and gone to campy and quiet and smooth braking, but the stopping power on the ultegra brake pads arent that great what type of pads do you use.
Thanks.
What are the advantages of bleaching your hair? Marginal gains? I would like an engineering analysis on this subject, that would be really cool
Brighter colour reflects more light than it absorbs, effectively functioning as a solar sail. If Pogacar had frosted tips he'd be breaking the 1000W FTP barrier
Modelling career
What simulation software are you using? What are you defining your boundary conditions regarding temperature?
I’d be interested to see how the heat conducts through steel rather than through dissimilar metals
He demonstrated the nagging effect of the discs wobbling when hot + gave solid reasoning what to his mind causes this problem 👍🏻
Great vid! I’d try your discs for sure!
congrats for the videos really well documented. Do you ever talk about SRAM?
Hi! Do MTB calipers have a bit more clearance than road calipers? My road bike has GRX levers paired with Deore M6000 calipers because the frame has IS mounts, and I rarely have disc rubs after long descents. The SLX rotors though are a bit flexy, I have to tru them sometimes and it does not take a lot of force to bend them.
Du you have any recommendations for 6-bolt rotors?
What disqualifies titanium as a brake surface other than being spendy?
Have you gotten anywhere on your disc brake design? I have a hilly ultra in June and I’d love good rotors for it
I'd be very interested too!
Wish I had seen this video a couple of days ago before I purchased a pair of the same Shimano rotors...which is probably why this video appeared in my feed.
Definitely interested!!
Hi PT
May I ask if you are using complete DA including the pads? I somehow curious if Shimano really design their system without defining which one is the replaceable consumables ( disc or pads, cannot be both) and normally should be the cheaper ones?
Ta
How were the campy rotors? Im thinking of swapping to them with my ultegra rotors.
Thanks for your nice explanation, now I know why my 105 rotors rub/make an annoying noice when I ride in the rain or during descends.
A couple of bike shops told me that they advice everyone to go with the “SwissStop Catalyst” rotors. Yes they are heavier but they don’t have the warping issue & last way longer
I use catalyst rotors on my gravel bike... They last long, nearly 10000km in them and still some life left... However on long descends they undergo the same issue when heat starts to build up and they rub...then come back to place when cool down...
will PT consider brass-steel composite or cast steel?
This channel is so good
Where did you purchase your Campy rotors?
I currently have Ultegra rotors. I suppose they have less issues because the cooling surface is a lot bigger? They're almost solid with just a few holes. Can't say much about the wear as I haven't been riding that much because in the last year... because of reasons. Previously I had basic six bolt steel rotors and they lasted a few years.
Curious to see what design you come up with.
Hi
I am interested in your rotors. Will you have a seperate video about them soon?
Is it too late to join the early bird sale?
Thanks Felix
I have been using AFS 03 rotors for a few months now. One thing I noticed is that the rotor feels soft when installed with some third-party internal spline lockring. It appears that because these rotor were designed for AFS, their crown face area is slightly larger than the lockring of the usual size. ZIPP's 160mm lockring solves that problem (ZIPP has two sizes of lockrings, but both uses external spline).
@Peak Torque do you think centrelock is the way to go for MTB hubs and rotors, or is 6 bolt still a good and reliable standard?
Also, do the centrelock adaptors that allow the use of six bolt rotors increase the risk of misalignment or instability? are some brand adaptors better than others?
Cheers
Hi, can campagnolo 03 rotor fits shimano breaking system?