Hood looks great. One tip that I was taught is…when applying multiple coats of rattle can base coat…before the last layer of base, do a very fine grit sand to remove any orange peel, dust or debris. (3k and up depending on debris). Then follow up with your final base coat. This helps with levelling of the final pass and ensuring the last coat has the least amount of contamination.
Would it make sense if you did those steps followed by clear? Like couple layers of clear than level it and hit a final pass? Or better off just laying it down and cutting & buffing?
I am amazed @ HOW LONG, THE "AIR" LAST IN THAT CAN. WTF? THAT WAS CRAZY.. That sold me right there on getting some cans. I miss my 64 FJ-40. It rusted away.... GREAT VIDEO DUDE!!!
You should have done a 4rth and 5th coat. Allowing the 4rth coat to really tac up and put the 5th coat on very thick and using a light to reflect the gloss stream. You will not need to wet sand if you control the wet stream better on the very thick 5th coat. That's with a can or spray gun. First coat should have been thicker, and always start at arms reach and come to you.
You did a great job , don't forget that a great paint job starts with the body work if you skip that no amount of wet sanding and buffing will help, no matter how talented a painter you are. ❤
I painted refurbished helicopter parts for forestry service and military. The most important thing I was ever taught about spraying anything is to spray your most difficult areas first. Everything else starts to fall into place after that.
The particles will enter the the pore's and hit the blood stream 😮 I had this happen back in the day with lacquer paint.I was spraying over a 150 gallon a week...
Yes i have done it a couple of time in my life ! and i maybe going to do it on my daily car next spring ! it is worth it for a daily driver ! it looks god !
Another few good tips is, tuck your shirt in and put item on a angle to prevent air from coming out of can from holding can on to much of a angle. Looks good!
I probably wouldnt try to do a complete car this way, but for a panel repair/replacement on an older car, it can be a great option vs leaving it alone or paying a pro to do it.
The best results can be had by going to a local auto paint shop, having them mix the color you want, and put into the aerosol cans. You can get it with the clear mixed in, and it is good to spray for the next 12 hours or so. Minimal cost, and excellent results WITH GOOD PREPARATION. I even did a newer Audi panel blend, with pearl white paint, and it looked EXACTLY factory-finish, though it required some wet sanding and polishing, as always.
Yes, this is great if you are paint matching a single or couple of panels but if you’re going to spend money to have paint mixed for a whole vehicle…. At 20-30 bucks a can I’d rather have proper paint mixed and spray through my spraygun.
Wow! Less compound!! Also, your haze is because you need to use a finishing pad and compound. Foam pad and Sonax Perfect Finish will make that paint look awesome!!
Great video. I will be using your technique with rattle cans to paint the hood of my 2002 Toyota Sienna. I am not looking for show quality....just man on the street acceptability. Thanks so very much for your instructions!
Have done a few rattle can cars over the years, best tip I have is use a quality graffiti brand paint. Belton by Molotow is a really high quality for example.
Nicely done. Old vehicles need to look decent and be protected from rust. And you get to have some fun with it. And, you are saving a few thousand dollars!
Looks pretty good man. A friend of mine did the same.He put cans in warm water and it flowed nicely. Then finished it with 2k clear. His trick was he sprayed with two cans at the same time to get a wide fan and keep a wet edge and minimal tiger striping. Then buffed it. It also looked great and lasted a few years till he got rid of the truck. Disregard the negative comments souch nicer than it was
Looks pretty good ! I personally never got a high gloss shine from a cut and buff using a dual action sander. A wool pad and a straight buffer generates the action needed for the best gloss.. nothing to be ashamed of there turned out nice.
I think it came out 👍 for the high price shops charging these days and if your paint job don’t have it to be perfect i think it excellent way ofgoing my to save money !
Yes…as I just spayed my ‘07 Dodge Magnum Hemi front bumper cover Satin Black using that same brand; I just now watched your vid that would have helped me with getting better results !👍🏼
Did my old 97 Dodge 1500 hood at work and just sanded it down and of course rag clean up and used a rustoleom spray can and won't use clear cloat because the engine heat will peel it off. Old work truck so no worries
This is how I painted my first car 50 years ago with rust oleum spray cans Back then they had lot #’s on the cans so it helped with the color match and it came out much better than an earl Shieb $20 paint job 👍
I did my 2012 HD RGS front fender that was Denim black with John Deer matte black and its a perfect match. Been running it for 2 years and not one person could tell the difference. HD quoted me $600 to paint the fender, I did it for around $50 in material.
What you should do is when you're done spray painting.You should take the spray can and turn it upside down and hold the nozzle down so you can clear out the nozzle.
I’ve done that, I do it inside an old trash can. these nozzles still get clogged somehow after sitting. Thanks for the tip though (pun intended) it will probably help someone else who sees your comment!
I just did mine and used the Eastwood 2k clear over some Home Depot bear spray cans and I’m amazed, not a 20 k paint job like I was quoted but defiantly better than a macco job. I think I’m in it about 300$
Why does everything have to be show quality? So you can spend thousands of dollars for a 5 dollar trophy? As long as you are having fun with your car that’s all that matters. I have 4 show cars and they are all boring.
even with it being a single stage paint i would still put a few lays of clear on top after a wet sand. that is were all the protection and long lasting comes from. i have done rattle can jobs before and as long as you prep it right it will come out nice. then put clear on it to make it last.
Silly tip that I use. Spray the nozzle of the spray can with brake clean and wipe nozzle off especially if storing for later use but do what ever you want whatever
Nice video. Perfect for my tired looking 1947 Willys jeep as it will not be roughly used but still near twigs etc on dirt roads in the Berkshires. Thanks very helpful
Brother, yes, I own a 98 Chevy obs and did the prep work, same as you used the same color. the only difference is that rustoleum didn't have the multi settings can at that time. I painted the truck with the same fantastic results people thought I had it done at a paint shop. I had very little runs with no orange peel that was 2 years ago, and it is still holding up. It still looks good, only natural expected scratches and dings, which worked out well because I did faux patina that also came out great with again rustoleum anyone can do it with patience and prep work just take your time. Great, keep the videos coming.
Try the faux patina. Cool thing about it is if you don't like it, you can just paint over with a normal coat of paint because with faux patina, is a lot of light dusting coats of colors especially when using different colors of primer for the rust effects wish I knew how to upload pic of hood I used very large vintage gas station decal from killer decals to add a killer look
7 bucks a can, I linked them in the video description. How many would be decided on how much surface area you’re working with. For the FJ40, I estimated 12 cans with 4-5 coats. Roughly 80 bucks to paint the thing.
For a trail rig, spray paint is perfect, easy to paint match and "good enough". Anything more than a trial rig would require a better process. Turned out pretty good though. Thanks for sharing this!
I can't see it really close, but it looks good from here. I have an 06 Scion with clear coat coming off. I've thought about rolling it with Rust-Oleum farm implement paint. The other day at Tractor Supply I saw they have gallons of clear coat too. Then I thought about lightly sanding & rolling on some clear coat. Not looking for a perfect job, just want to improve the looks of the car. Even body shops often don't do perfect jobs either & charge a lot of money.
I've become a fan of the 1 to 5 spray nozzles. I seldom use more then #4 or #5 but have used #2 as well for tight spots. You can get spatter but it tends to be absorbed in the paint. You can get it in a clean nozzle. For your test spray, unfortunately you cannot tip the can over and clear with a short spray. So what I have done, thanks to a yTuber suggestion, is remove the spray nozzle (and its tough on the 1 to 5 can) and spray a jet of WD40 and a drop in the can stem. that cleans the nozzle and keeps the stem from clogging. before you paint, do a test spray to clear anything left in the stem or nozzle. I have had rather fantastic results from the Rusto 1 to 5 paint cans. just remember to let the paint flash before the next coat, about 10 to 20 minutes. Hood looks pretty good. I thought your second coat was kind of heavy and would be looking for runs, but nice job.
I always like to see other peoples results for this . I would not paint an entire car this way but I have had great luck with rattle can base coat clear coat body work touch ups and panel painting . Just like paint gun work if you take your time and do your best to keep everything clean , after cutting and buffing it can be hard to tell the difference between factory paint and touch ups . keep bringing the good vids .
I've been using Krylon semi gloss white to mimic my factory paint color. It's not perfect but it's close enough to pass until I can get the car resprayed. Raw paint is a bit too white but with 2K clear it tones down a bit and matches a lot better.
You can totally rattle can your entire truck but it's going to cost almost as much as a budget ebay automotive paint kit. The real cost effective way to do this is to buy rustoleum in the can, reduce with diesel (which will also act as a hardener) and roll it on with a fine foam roller. It will orange peel about as much as a spray can will so you'll still need to wet sand and buff but a $50 gallon will easily cover a small to mid sized truck. The only problem with either of these options this is the paint is not UV resistant...this can be mitigated with a cheap clear or even a $20 amazon ceramic coating...2 bottles for a truck.
@@fredseitz8403 Depends on the temperature but just about the consistency of coffee cream and you should be good. It's better to go thicker than if you would have sprayed but don't go too thick or it will take forever to harden. Don't worry too much about it catching fire either but definitely mind the fumes. Best to wear a respirator. It stinks.
I used the the little foam roller and the quart pour can of black rustolem primer, I added a bunch of flood too it and have some amazing results, better then earl shives or macco. Lol
The disadvantages are (1) the choice of colors that are available ,(rust o leum) Keep in mind that you are using the rattle can formula which is not oil based and is somewhat compatible with other paints(2) it is not very durable.However if you follow up with a top coat of 2k clear then that may mitigate some of that issue. The advantage ? No compressor is.needed.
Zach hood looks fantastic! I have a 24 year old Jeep XJ that needs paint bad and no shop around here is up on their tetanus shots so I will end up rattle can paint I will not bother with the sanding thanks for your video!
Wet sanding is like black magic. I did it on my corvette, and everything came out nice , until i got to my drivers door. It looks foggy from some angles . I did 1k 2k 3k buff and polish. From the screen your hood looks a lot better then my door 😂.
Great tutorial and example of technique and capability of the paint. Seems like too much orange peel to cut back, and those cans always spittle out at the worst time adding more orange peel. I did some cabinets this summer, had the same issue, just easier to fix in wood finish. I need to go buy an HVLP gun. The better finish is worth the cleanup and I've done it before, but with old school high pressure guns. Little more cleanup, but definitely a smoother finish. Even if the same bulk Rustoleum paint from the house paint style cans for spray guns is used. I've done it for a couple metal home doors, much better than the rattle can and I didn't buff them out or anything.
I do think it fully cures after about a week. Those first 2-3 days it seems softer but most paints do during that time. Rustoleum paint has special oils in them that prevent rust and so it does take longer to polymerize, thus a longer curring time. Thanks for watching!
u do understand that most modern paint require no finer sanding then 320 or it can have a problem holding to the surface a lot like 220 with a sealer coat and when u use paint with no hardener it will never harden which will create problems if u ever repaint the rig. i worked for years painting rigs and every time i run into spray paint i have problems
Fully aware. This is discussed in other comments. I clearly state that this won’t be as good as most professional paints, however when on a budget this is a great solution for someone.
Man you must be a perfectionist because based on what I see, it looks show quality to me. But I’m definitely a novice. Curious to know why with all the overspray, your floor doesn’t appear to have changed blue? Lastly, as I mentioned I’m a novice and 1 key tip is to be patient. Thanks for the video.
The question would you spray a whole car ? How many cans do you need at what cost ? Basically only if you dont have a spray gun. The cheapest is a 1 ltr tin of enamel and turps, regular thinners will make it dry quicker , but more expensive. However , the quicker it dries the less time it has to level out, more orange peel. But the more dry time , the bigger chance of dust and bugs settling on it. Epoxy enamel will dry a bit harder. As for cutting and buffing , I have never tried it on regular enamel. The whole point I am making here is that every time I have used rattle cans for anything other than small items , the cost has blown out, due to the number of cans needed, add this to returning to the store only to find that they dont have any more of that color.
120.00 to paint this whole truck in this case. I’ll be doing a video just on that. I order my paint online to make sure I have enough. These cans are only 7.00 USD each.
Yeah it’s not quite the lighter pailer blue they came stock with and I was worried it would be too “loud” but the longer I look at it the better it looks to me.
Would love to see you do a comparison between spray cans and HVLP guns - turbine sprayers. I am thinking of using HVLP to paint my truck and wondering if spay cans would be better or easier.
Easier sure, but a paintgun and proper paint with a hardner will be better overall. There’s also a big cost difference too. Spray cans will be much cheaper.
There are super cheap paint guns that are much better than rattle can but there is all the other expenses that come with it. That being said, China Harbor and Home Creepo sell inexpensive guns and some that are amazing bang for buck and worthy of pro use but are not necessary for a beater car. HF sells a $25 gun or even the $8 one will do just fine for Matte or Satin single stage. HTE is preferred over HVLP if you are using a smaller compressor. You need a consistent and filtered air pressure and that may bring up the $$ beyond the difference in final outcome for a single beater car paint job.
@@frankstetka7206 That's the problem is that I don't have access to a good compressor. I thought you couldn't paint a whole car with a small compressor.
Does work good with professional premix put in a can .One problem you have with cans you can't totally mix the paint properly so you can end up with Different colour shades plus too expensive just the spray pack can is 15$ without paint in it .ok for smaller parts but wouldn't do it to a whole car .get a tin done with a compressor and spray gun .
Great Vid, but dang you must be light headed with just a dust mask and the door closed. Get you a pink canistered 3m mask bro before you keel over... I feel light headed just watching this... paint looks great though....
I'm thinking about doing my 82 corvette. Its straight ,from the doors back its originl but the hood and fr fenders hae a peeling 2 stage withe a bad color match . We'll see ..
Matte and Satin are even easier and hide imperfections better, especially if the color is lighter. Satin white has been a go to for beater sports cars for me. I think it looks sharp and very inexpensive. I don’t bother sanding the finished product because it’s not a gloss which shows where overspray hits the parts which have flash dried already. If you do paint with gloss, there is such a thing as a bleed blender or whatever it’s called that is pretty much like a spray clear solvent that re wets the flashed paint and allows the fine mist droplets to integrate with it. I’ve had many complements on rattle can paint jobs and it’s even a kick when you tell someone that it’s just that, rattle can.
Hood looks great. One tip that I was taught is…when applying multiple coats of rattle can base coat…before the last layer of base, do a very fine grit sand to remove any orange peel, dust or debris. (3k and up depending on debris). Then follow up with your final base coat. This helps with levelling of the final pass and ensuring the last coat has the least amount of contamination.
When I use the fine grit sand before the final layer, how do I clean it? Do i wet sand it or dry sand and wipe with alcohol?
A very light wet sand pass is what I was taught to knock down peel (on a micro level), followed by a distilled water diluted with alcohol cloth pass.
Would it make sense if you did those steps followed by clear? Like couple layers of clear than level it and hit a final pass? Or better off just laying it down and cutting & buffing?
We used to call nubbing it then tack often you can get away with just tacking
I rattle canned my first Fj 40 as I was getting body panels repaired with replacements over a few years . I was happy with it for what it was.
I am amazed @ HOW LONG, THE "AIR" LAST IN THAT CAN. WTF? THAT WAS CRAZY.. That sold me right there on getting some cans. I miss my 64 FJ-40. It rusted away....
GREAT VIDEO DUDE!!!
You should have done a 4rth and 5th coat. Allowing the 4rth coat to really tac up and put the 5th coat on very thick and using a light to reflect the gloss stream. You will not need to wet sand if you control the wet stream better on the very thick 5th coat. That's with a can or spray gun. First coat should have been thicker, and always start at arms reach and come to you.
You did a great job , don't forget that a great paint job starts with the body work if you skip that no amount of wet sanding and buffing will help, no matter how talented a painter you are. ❤
I painted refurbished helicopter parts for forestry service and military. The most important thing I was ever taught about spraying anything is to spray your most difficult areas first. Everything else starts to fall into place after that.
Looks good for a home paint job. I would probably put some clear on it before sanding/polishing to make it more durable.
One other health tip, get a respirator. You’re filtering out paint particles but not the toxic fumes. That stuff will kill you.
It's not as bad with paint but once he puts on a 2k clear that has isocyanates, then you really need a filter, organic, and even eye protection
It is bad what are you talking about @@The1Music2MyEars
Na, those filter out Covid so they must work for fumes. Lol
The particles will enter the the pore's and hit the blood stream 😮 I had this happen back in the day with lacquer paint.I was spraying over a 150 gallon a week...
@@jeanlawson9133 What ended up happening to you?
Yes i have done it a couple of time in my life ! and i maybe going to do it on my daily car next spring ! it is worth it for a daily driver ! it looks god !
Another few good tips is, tuck your shirt in and put item on a angle to prevent air from coming out of can from holding can on to much of a angle. Looks good!
I probably wouldnt try to do a complete car this way, but for a panel repair/replacement on an older car, it can be a great option vs leaving it alone or paying a pro to do it.
The best results can be had by going to a local auto paint shop, having them mix the color you want, and put into the aerosol cans. You can get it with the clear mixed in, and it is good to spray for the next 12 hours or so. Minimal cost, and excellent results WITH GOOD PREPARATION.
I even did a newer Audi panel blend, with pearl white paint, and it looked EXACTLY factory-finish, though it required some wet sanding and polishing, as always.
Yes, this is great if you are paint matching a single or couple of panels but if you’re going to spend money to have paint mixed for a whole vehicle…. At 20-30 bucks a can I’d rather have proper paint mixed and spray through my spraygun.
Wow! Less compound!! Also, your haze is because you need to use a finishing pad and compound. Foam pad and Sonax Perfect Finish will make that paint look awesome!!
Great video. I will be using your technique with rattle cans to paint the hood of my 2002 Toyota Sienna. I am not looking for show quality....just man on the street acceptability. Thanks so very much for your instructions!
Good job. Yes for my daily run about. Rattling can paint is good
Have done a few rattle can cars over the years, best tip I have is use a quality graffiti brand paint. Belton by Molotow is a really high quality for example.
Yep I use the same compound after wet sanding, very easy to use and it works well by hand.
Nicely done. Old vehicles need to look decent and be protected from rust. And you get to have some fun with it. And, you are saving a few thousand dollars!
Absolutely 💯
for my '89 silverado, this is the perfect way to go.
Same with my 2006 GMC Sierra👍🏻
Great result for a diy job in your own garage, more practice & prep work will only give even better results, well done 👏 good video.
Appreciate you!
Absolutely. I’ve had jobs that turned out spectacular especially after wet sanding it and buffing it if you want to go crazy put 2K clear over top.
Looks pretty good man. A friend of mine did the same.He put cans in warm water and it flowed nicely. Then finished it with 2k clear. His trick was he sprayed with two cans at the same time to get a wide fan and keep a wet edge and minimal tiger striping. Then buffed it. It also looked great and lasted a few years till he got rid of the truck. Disregard the negative comments souch nicer than it was
Appreciate it! Thanks for the real world experience!
Looks pretty good ! I personally never got a high gloss shine from a cut and buff using a dual action sander. A wool pad and a straight buffer generates the action needed for the best gloss.. nothing to be ashamed of there turned out nice.
That’s an orbital buffer, not a sander. My sander is much smaller. These buffers are frequently used for paint correction.
I think it came out 👍 for the high price shops charging these days and if your paint job don’t have it to be perfect i think it excellent way ofgoing my to save money !
Yes…as I just spayed my ‘07 Dodge Magnum Hemi front bumper cover Satin Black using that same brand; I just now watched your vid that would have helped me with getting better results !👍🏼
You can always respray! It’s only 7.00 a can!
I like the look. I might try this with a panel at a time with my 68 cutlass beater.
Did my old 97 Dodge 1500 hood at work and just sanded it down and of course rag clean up and used a rustoleom spray can and won't use clear cloat because the engine heat will peel it off. Old work truck so no worries
This is how I painted my first car 50 years ago with rust oleum spray cans
Back then they had lot #’s on the cans so it helped with the color match
and it came out much better than an earl Shieb $20 paint job 👍
Glad to hear things never change!
I did my 2012 HD RGS front fender that was Denim black with John Deer matte black and its a perfect match. Been running it for 2 years and not one person could tell the difference. HD quoted me $600 to paint the fender, I did it for around $50 in material.
Wow that hood looks awesome. Thanks for the video.
What you should do is when you're done spray painting.You should take the spray can and turn it upside down and hold the nozzle down so you can clear out the nozzle.
I’ve done that, I do it inside an old trash can. these nozzles still get clogged somehow after sitting. Thanks for the tip though (pun intended) it will probably help someone else who sees your comment!
I just did mine and used the Eastwood 2k clear over some Home Depot bear spray cans and I’m amazed, not a 20 k paint job like I was quoted but defiantly better than a macco job. I think I’m in it about 300$
Yes I will you are such a good teacher😊
Why does everything have to be show quality? So you can spend thousands of dollars for a 5 dollar trophy? As long as you are having fun with your car that’s all that matters. I have 4 show cars and they are all boring.
Agreed, that’s pretty much the point of this video since everyone talks down on things that aren’t “show quality”
Thank you for sharing, it turned out great I thought. I'm hoping to do my small box trailer soon so this is perfect
Prep is key!
even with it being a single stage paint i would still put a few lays of clear on top after a wet sand. that is were all the protection and long lasting comes from. i have done rattle can jobs before and as long as you prep it right it will come out nice. then put clear on it to make it last.
Thanks for the feedback. I brought up 2k clear in the video. Is there something else you recommend?
Silly tip that I use. Spray the nozzle of the spray can with brake clean and wipe nozzle off especially if storing for later use but do what ever you want whatever
Nice video. Perfect for my tired looking 1947 Willys jeep as it will not be roughly used but still near twigs etc on dirt roads in the Berkshires. Thanks very helpful
Sounds great! Have fun with your project!
Hit that hood with some Spraymax 2K clear!
For the POS i am planning to paint, this looks good
Brother, yes, I own a 98 Chevy obs and did the prep work, same as you used the same color. the only difference is that rustoleum didn't have the multi settings can at that time. I painted the truck with the same fantastic results people thought I had it done at a paint shop. I had very little runs with no orange peel that was 2 years ago, and it is still holding up. It still looks good, only natural expected scratches and dings, which worked out well because I did faux patina that also came out great with again rustoleum anyone can do it with patience and prep work just take your time. Great, keep the videos coming.
Hey it’s great to hear it holds up over time! I was actually considering a faux patina with it too!
Try the faux patina. Cool thing about it is if you don't like it, you can just paint over with a normal coat of paint because with faux patina, is a lot of light dusting coats of colors especially when using different colors of primer for the rust effects wish I knew how to upload pic of hood I used very large vintage gas station decal from killer decals to add a killer look
Go find my instagram and send me a picture of it! I’m intrigued
What's the $ price of 1 can ? Considering how many cans it takes to paint a vehicle. My guess 12-14 cans
7 bucks a can, I linked them in the video description. How many would be decided on how much surface area you’re working with. For the FJ40, I estimated 12 cans with 4-5 coats. Roughly 80 bucks to paint the thing.
For a trail rig, spray paint is perfect, easy to paint match and "good enough". Anything more than a trial rig would require a better process. Turned out pretty good though. Thanks for sharing this!
Agreed 💯
You should see the rattle can job I did on my trail rig.. You would disagree. It was embarrassing.
@@jjjetplane I got a good chuckle out of that one. LOL
The color looks pretty close to the original Toyota blue from FJ40s. Nice!
Not at all. The factory color is considerably paler
Thanks for showing this, the hood looks great.
Thanks for watching!
Not for nothing but i think im going to try this. Great presentation and thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge! Definitely subbed!!
I would definitely rattle can my whole vehicle. 😂 Looks awesome. 🙏
I can't see it really close, but it looks good from here. I have an 06 Scion with clear coat coming off. I've thought about rolling it with Rust-Oleum farm implement paint. The other day at Tractor Supply I saw they have gallons of clear coat too. Then I thought about lightly sanding & rolling on some clear coat. Not looking for a perfect job, just want to improve the looks of the car. Even body shops often don't do perfect jobs either & charge a lot of money.
I've become a fan of the 1 to 5 spray nozzles. I seldom use more then #4 or #5 but have used #2 as well for tight spots.
You can get spatter but it tends to be absorbed in the paint.
You can get it in a clean nozzle.
For your test spray, unfortunately you cannot tip the can over and clear with a short spray.
So what I have done, thanks to a yTuber suggestion, is remove the spray nozzle (and its tough on the 1 to 5 can) and spray a jet of WD40 and a drop in the can stem.
that cleans the nozzle and keeps the stem from clogging.
before you paint, do a test spray to clear anything left in the stem or nozzle.
I have had rather fantastic results from the Rusto 1 to 5 paint cans.
just remember to let the paint flash before the next coat, about 10 to 20 minutes.
Hood looks pretty good. I thought your second coat was kind of heavy and would be looking for runs, but nice job.
Thankfully no runs!
I always like to see other peoples results for this . I would not paint an entire car this way but I have had great luck with rattle can base coat clear coat body work touch ups and panel painting . Just like paint gun work if you take your time and do your best to keep everything clean , after cutting and buffing it can be hard to tell the difference between factory paint and touch ups . keep bringing the good vids .
Thanks man!
This is great for older cars where the paint job is worth half or more of the value of the car. Will this paint work with bumpers?
I like that color looks great from here thanks for sharing 😎
Thanks! 🙏 was between this color and gray but ended up liking how the blue pops!
Looks damn good to me!!!!
It looks great and I would use the can paint for sure to save a lot of money
My '68 station wagon had been repainted with the color "1972 Pinto Blue." When it oxidized, that there is the color it became.
That’s interesting, do you know what brand the paint was when it was resprayed?
I’m about to rattle can my 2011 jeep. Old girl has 150k miles on her. Not dumping thousands into paint. Video was very helpful. Thanks.
Use Implement paint instead. it's about the same money and it will last a hell of alot longer.
I've been using Krylon semi gloss white to mimic my factory paint color. It's not perfect but it's close enough to pass until I can get the car resprayed. Raw paint is a bit too white but with 2K clear it tones down a bit and matches a lot better.
I’ve been interested to see how krylon sprays onto non plastic surfaces. Thanks for the info!
You can totally rattle can your entire truck but it's going to cost almost as much as a budget ebay automotive paint kit. The real cost effective way to do this is to buy rustoleum in the can, reduce with diesel (which will also act as a hardener) and roll it on with a fine foam roller.
It will orange peel about as much as a spray can will so you'll still need to wet sand and buff but a $50 gallon will easily cover a small to mid sized truck. The only problem with either of these options this is the paint is not UV resistant...this can be mitigated with a cheap clear or even a $20 amazon ceramic coating...2 bottles for a truck.
Rustoleum is UV resistant.
Ratio of diesel to paint ?
@@fredseitz8403 Depends on the temperature but just about the consistency of coffee cream and you should be good. It's better to go thicker than if you would have sprayed but don't go too thick or it will take forever to harden.
Don't worry too much about it catching fire either but definitely mind the fumes. Best to wear a respirator. It stinks.
I used the the little foam roller and the quart pour can of black rustolem primer, I added a bunch of flood too it and have some amazing results, better then earl shives or macco. Lol
The disadvantages are (1) the choice of colors that are available ,(rust o leum) Keep in mind that you are using the rattle can formula which is not oil based and is somewhat compatible with other paints(2) it is not very durable.However if you follow up with a top coat of 2k clear then that may mitigate some of that issue. The advantage ? No compressor is.needed.
Yes, I would let you paint my car and I love this video. Great job.
It’s crazy how nice it came out.
I would love it if it turned out that nice
Good job considering.
Zach hood looks fantastic! I have a 24 year old Jeep XJ that needs paint bad and no shop around here is up on their tetanus shots so I will end up rattle can paint I will not bother with the sanding thanks for your video!
Oh, please sand it! The secret to any paint job is the prep work!
Wet sanding is like black magic. I did it on my corvette, and everything came out nice , until i got to my drivers door. It looks foggy from some angles . I did 1k 2k 3k buff and polish. From the screen your hood looks a lot better then my door 😂.
You need to hold your can at 90° to the part you got a really wet bottom and a dry top spray the way you’re holding that can
Agreed, this hood really should have been hung up to spray
Great tutorial and example of technique and capability of the paint. Seems like too much orange peel to cut back, and those cans always spittle out at the worst time adding more orange peel. I did some cabinets this summer, had the same issue, just easier to fix in wood finish.
I need to go buy an HVLP gun. The better finish is worth the cleanup and I've done it before, but with old school high pressure guns. Little more cleanup, but definitely a smoother finish. Even if the same bulk Rustoleum paint from the house paint style cans for spray guns is used. I've done it for a couple metal home doors, much better than the rattle can and I didn't buff them out or anything.
Interesting 🤔
I have a hood for a ford transit, I’m thinking of doing the same thing.
Not bad for a non hardener, great job son. 😎
I flip cars and I think this method would be fine for what I need. Thanks
Just make sure you disclose it to the buyer or spray it with a proper clear coat to make it last
I was always under the impression that Rustoleum never really fully cures. However I haven't used it in years. But it looks awsome!
I do think it fully cures after about a week. Those first 2-3 days it seems softer but most paints do during that time. Rustoleum paint has special oils in them that prevent rust and so it does take longer to polymerize, thus a longer curring time. Thanks for watching!
@@GhostSpeedShop Ok, that makes sense. That's probably what I'm remembering. Great job though.
Thanks! I’ll be painting more in the future like this if you’re interested in that sort of stuff.
Awesome job
I would only rattle can with custom made up cans from an auto paint supply place....those work well. 2k clear could be napa or eastwood or spraymax
u do understand that most modern paint require no finer sanding then 320 or it can have a problem holding to the surface a lot like 220 with a sealer coat and when u use paint with no hardener it will never harden which will create problems if u ever repaint the rig. i worked for years painting rigs and every time i run into spray paint i have problems
Fully aware. This is discussed in other comments. I clearly state that this won’t be as good as most professional paints, however when on a budget this is a great solution for someone.
Looks great to me
with sanded/buffed 2k clear that would look much much better
I state this in the video
i would apply a 2k shiny coat
Great video from the person behind the camera!
Thanks! I’ll let them know!
Man you must be a perfectionist because based on what I see, it looks show quality to me. But I’m definitely a novice. Curious to know why with all the overspray, your floor doesn’t appear to have changed blue? Lastly, as I mentioned I’m a novice and 1 key tip is to be patient. Thanks for the video.
I spray the floor with water to keep the dust down. Overspray also doesn’t stick to it!
The question would you spray a whole car ? How many cans do you need at what cost ? Basically only if you dont have a spray gun. The cheapest is a 1 ltr tin of enamel and turps, regular thinners will make it dry quicker , but more expensive. However , the quicker it dries the less time it has to level out, more orange peel. But the more dry time , the bigger chance of dust and bugs settling on it. Epoxy enamel will dry a bit harder. As for cutting and buffing , I have never tried it on regular enamel. The whole point I am making here is that every time I have used rattle cans for anything other than small items , the cost has blown out, due to the number of cans needed, add this to returning to the store only to find that they dont have any more of that color.
120.00 to paint this whole truck in this case. I’ll be doing a video just on that. I order my paint online to make sure I have enough. These cans are only 7.00 USD each.
@@GhostSpeedShopNo wonder businesses are going out since people are always buying everything online.
Good video, that paint color should look fantastic on the 40. Cant wait to see how it ends up coming out, and what else you have in store for it.
Yeah it’s not quite the lighter pailer blue they came stock with and I was worried it would be too “loud” but the longer I look at it the better it looks to me.
Would love to see you do a comparison between spray cans and HVLP guns - turbine sprayers. I am thinking of using HVLP to paint my truck and wondering if spay cans would be better or easier.
Easier sure, but a paintgun and proper paint with a hardner will be better overall. There’s also a big cost difference too. Spray cans will be much cheaper.
There are super cheap paint guns that are much better than rattle can but there is all the other expenses that come with it. That being said, China Harbor and Home Creepo sell inexpensive guns and some that are amazing bang for buck and worthy of pro use but are not necessary for a beater car. HF sells a $25 gun or even the $8 one will do just fine for Matte or Satin single stage.
HTE is preferred over HVLP if you are using a smaller compressor.
You need a consistent and filtered air pressure and that may bring up the $$ beyond the difference in final outcome for a single beater car paint job.
@@frankstetka7206 That's the problem is that I don't have access to a good compressor. I thought you couldn't paint a whole car with a small compressor.
Does work good with professional premix put in a can .One problem you have with cans you can't totally mix the paint properly so you can end up with Different colour shades plus too expensive just the spray pack can is 15$ without paint in it .ok for smaller parts but wouldn't do it to a whole car .get a tin done with a compressor and spray gun .
Plus the type of paint sprayed from a gun tends to last a lot longer.
fyi - rattle can FULL cure is when you CANNOT SMELL PAINT any longer, typically 2 weeks. Spray paint is very high in solvents.
Great Vid, but dang you must be light headed with just a dust mask and the door closed.
Get you a pink canistered 3m mask bro before you keel over...
I feel light headed just watching this...
paint looks great though....
This was discussed in other comments. I’ve already bought a proper mask
When you paint with a spray gun or a can you are supposed to hold the can parallel to the surface
Agreed, I should have hung the high of for this. It’s harder to film that way though.
Great result!
If the car is old , not a classic and paint is long gone then yeah, I'd spray
I'm thinking about doing my 82 corvette. Its straight ,from the doors back its originl but the hood and fr fenders hae a peeling 2 stage withe a bad color match . We'll see ..
What color is it?
@GhostSpeedShop its red . I dont hav a garage so I could do it in sections weather permiting or do the prep and take it to Maaco in their booth
Really nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Pretty good bro I've seen videos where one guy did a panel then his roof it looked horrible scared me to try it lol
What happens is you when you use a spray can you get what they call tiger stripes.
Looks great. Any advice on rattlecanning a matte finish? Thank you, BH
Same prep, no wet sand after and make sure you buy a matte finish paint!
Matte and Satin are even easier and hide imperfections better, especially if the color is lighter. Satin white has been a go to for beater sports cars for me. I think it looks sharp and very inexpensive. I don’t bother sanding the finished product because it’s not a gloss which shows where overspray hits the parts which have flash dried already.
If you do paint with gloss, there is such a thing as a bleed blender or whatever it’s called that is pretty much like a spray clear solvent that re wets the flashed paint and allows the fine mist droplets to integrate with it. I’ve had many complements on rattle can paint jobs and it’s even a kick when you tell someone that it’s just that, rattle can.
A respirator is probably a good idea in a garage like this.
Yeah, it’s been addressed. 3m sent me one! Thanks for your comment!
Cool looking floor, what is that, thanks
Racedeck
That’s impressive ! Sadly there is nothing equivalent to rust oleum paint here in Germany, at least as far as I know.
Rustoleum is not great paint. There are much better brands.
Nerves of steel to spray paint while the C8 is in the garage (yes it's covered but...) Thanks for the videos!
Yup, the garage is well ventilated though so it’s not that bad! Of course sir
I was thinking the same thing.
How many coats did you apply and how many cans did you use ?
4 coats, 2 ish cans.
Looks fine for off roading but did you notice you leaning over front. Then got shirt stuck to it 😂
Fortunately it didn’t leave any artifacts.
Hi Friend
Thanks for the video
How many spray can have you used for tye bonet ?
Kind regards
3 cans
Very nice floor to be painting on
Yeah, it’s perfect if you wet it down first and then rinse it off after spraying.
Looks good !
Looks awesome dude
Thanks!
Awesome work... In what room temperature did you use that you spray on that you got good results??
72 degrees!