Going to second all those great comments before mine." I hate you". Your description and knowledge is tops. That is what we need more in this country. Best to you.
I appreciate good straightforward no nonsense instructions. Thank you. I think mine is a 2014. We haven’t changed the oil. Probably need to. Don’t use it much. Need to. Lol. I’ll be listening to all the ways we need to improve our sweet Yami baby.
Copy that. I'm using Lucas Red N Tackey. I've had great results with this brand on my motorcycles. BTW Your videos are very helpful. Keep up the good work !
No an electric cart doesn't have any engine oil that will need changed. You will have rear differential oil that will need changed every 3 to 5 years. The biggest thing you need to keep an eye on is your water level in your batteries. Also clean any corrosion off the terminals and make sure they stay tight. And the cart should always be plugged in anytime you are not using it. Don't park it on concrete in your garage without a drip mat under it or the battery acid will stain your floor.
@@PowerEquipmentMan plug it in every any time I'm not using it?I asked the guy who dropped it off and he said no.I guess he was wrong. Lol... Also do happen to know the "G" version?Is it a G29 also? Appreciate the response.
@@ntrddragn The Drive 2 is still called a g29, just like the drive 1 was. I'm not sure why they didn't change it. Most of the accessories you look up for the "g29" is for the Drive 1 and wont fit the Drive 2. The model name for the Drive 2 electric is DR2E. I would highly recommend plugging your cart in every night unless you like to get stranded. If you are using it at different times throughout the day you don't need to plug it in-between uses, just when you are done with it for the day.
Hey Jonas, great video. I plan on purchasing this exact golf cart in the next few months. I’m assuming the drain plug has a seal. Do you ever pull the plug and replace that seal and if so, how often? Love your videos, you have a new subscriber.
Good video! I couldnt figure out the skid plate so i just used the oil extractor like you did. The thing i dont get is the grease. Does it say to do that in the manual?
We were told at the Yamaha training school about greasing the clutches. I'm not sure if that info is in the the manual or not. I figure they wouldn't have put grease zerks on them if they weren't supposed to get greased.
@@PowerEquipmentMan I dropped the new plug, that is why I need to know the correct gap. my cart wants to go chug, chug like it is loading up when I first take off, any ideas please? I installed new gas and air filters and adjusted the throttle cable and it still does it. the throttle cable had about 1 inch slack in it. i adjusted it to take up the slack, but no change in the chugging on take off. runs fine at low and all good up to full throttle
Is a torque wrench not necessary when installing the spark plug? Looks like Yamaha does recommend around 15lbs of torque when re-installing in the manual.
I've been a mechanic for over 20 years and never once used a torque wrench to install a spark plug...never had one fall out either. We call it a "calibrated elbow". If you are more comfortable using a torque wrench though, go ahead.
Is it true that on the 2022 Yamaha put a thick protective coating on engine on the drain plug side? All around mine has cracks near the drain plug. Dealer told me it was normal and showed me a new crate engine with the same cracks. Have you seen this in your experience?
I have not heard anything about a coating. But Yamaha has always had rough castings for these engines. They may look cracked but they are really not. If it was cracked it would be leaking. Even if yours did somehow get cracked, you've got a 4 year warranty that would take care of it.
@7:50, to grease that rear clutch zerk, can I just remove the bagwell, put the F/R switch to that neutral sweet spot and spin the clutch wheel until it is easy to access from the bagel area?
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thanks! Can I also pull the rear diff fluid out with the same vacuum extractor I used on the motor oil or do I need to use the drain plug underneath?
Thanks! Question, I have a 2017 that's been fine until today... It runs, then dies, and is sluggish to start and then stalls. I checked the plug, it was carboned but DRY and I cleaned it and reinstalled, but same result. The cart has been ran almost daily, except for the past few weeks I had shoulder surgery so not until today. The OIL looks BLACK. I had it at the dealer about a year ago for a rear spring upgrade and they said they did the service.... There's a gas smell and the tank gas smells varnished, which is weird because we fuel it when it gets to half and we have two acres in the country and use it quite frequently (go miles around the neighborhood too at least once a week) except for the past two weeks. Any ideas?
Sure sounds like its a fuel problem. It would be better to let the gas tank run almost empty and then fill it up with fresh fuel each time. If you keep refilling it when it is half full, the fuel that is in there is still old. Make sure the fuel that you are putting in it is fresh and hasn't been sitting around in a gas can. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel each time you fill it as well. I would start with draining the tank completely and adding fresh fuel. Oil needs to be changed at least once per year or more depending on use. So do an oil change now. If its carbureted, clean the carb (or have someone do it that has an ultrasonic cleaner). Replace the spark plug (don't just clean it). Remove the spark arrestor from the tip of the muffler and throw it in the trash (if it is a Quietech model).
Hi I have a 2018 Drive2, I just bought it and it is backfiring when it gets warmed up and is coming to a stop sometimes even after being at a stop with engine off for a second or two!! Do you have any recommendations on how I can fix this? I’ve already checked and made sure all the intake and exhaust bolts are tightened. Thanks in advance for your help. 🙂
If it is carbureted I would guess that the throttle cable is too tight or carb is dirty and it is holding the butterfly open a little bit allowing gas into the engine while its still turning over but not firing. If its EFI it could be an injector problem and would need to go to a dealer. Backfires are most commonly caused by excess fuel not getting burned.
I've got a 2018 Yamaha Drive 2 Quietech EFI Fleet that started showing the check engine/oil light (solid) right when I first press the accelerator after it's been sitting for any prolonged period. It's not flashing, and it only stays on for a few seconds and then goes away. It does not come back after the cart is warmed up. The oil was changed in October, and still looks very clean and is at the correct level. If anything, it may be just a little over. Any idea why the engine light is coming on after a cold start?
The check engine light should come on solid for a few seconds after the cart is started the first time to do a system check. What you are explaining sounds normal.
I’m a complete novice when it comes to mechanical maintenance, what kind of grease would you recommend for the clutch? Awesome video by the way, keep up the good work.
@@PowerEquipmentMan thanks a lot for the quick reply. Just ordered the grease gun you linked. I noticed on the website for the tune up kit that the brand of oil is Maxima, do you still prefer Kohler 10w30? Kohler 10w30 is the exact oil I use for my riding mower and figured that would be awesome being able to use it for the cart as well. Thanks again!
We have not personally ran into this issue, but I have talked to one or two guys that had. I gave them my suggestions, but never heard back if it fixed their issue. My first thought is that the fuel injector is leaking. If it has some type of debris in it that is not allowing it to close completely it would be leaking fuel into the intake the whole time the cart is running. If that isn't it, then I would look at the intake air temp sensor, cylinder temp sensor, and MAP sensor. If any of those sensors were giving a false reading it could tell the ECU to add too much fuel. For example, if the air temp sensor was telling the ECU that it was 40 degrees out when it was actually 90 degrees, the ECU would be telling it to add more fuel then it needs because its cold when its not. The problem is most of those sensors are difficult to test, and Yamaha doesn't even give specs for some of them. Chances are, even if you take it to a dealer, they will just start swapping out sensors until something fixes it. It also wouldn't hurt to check the spark arrestor on the tip of the muffler and replace the air filter. Keep in mind that these carts all come with a 4 year warranty, even if you aren't the original owner, the dealer SHOULD still honor it. If you have a good dealer close to you, just let them figure it out under warranty.
Concerned. 2021 drive 2 efi changed the oil. Checked before starting and stick measured ok. Siphoned using 2 different size tubes and could only get a 1/2 qt. Replaced with just a 1/2 qt of 10w-30 and the stick was right on. Should I leave it like this or go from underneath and drop the pan? Thanks Frank
@@frankszlachetka6382 Interesting. We service around 200 Yamahas a year just like how we show in this video and have never had an issue. We always add exactly 1 quart and it gets them exactly to the full line. This is how Yamaha actually recommends changing oil in the Quietechs and trains golf courses to service their fleets like this. I have to assume that you have a restriction somewhere and the tube isn't getting all the way to the bottom.
@@PowerEquipmentMan What is even more wierd is that before I drained it the dip stick read dead on and the oil looked brand new. Once I started siphoning the oil was jet black. Going to play it safe and go from underneath. Cheap insurance and peace of mind. Appreciate you taking the time to follow up. Thanks Frank
Update and 2 questions please: Went from underneath and removed the drain plug. Full qt came out. I have the standard FLEET model and did my own conversion to be street legal. Is my model supposed to have the plastic shield underneath it and if so would it make mine even quieter. 2nd an average cost for a dealer to install a high speed gear set. Thank You, Frank
Yes, you do have to change the rear diff oil every 4 to 5 years. We have several videos showing how to do that depending on which rear axle your cart has. Here is the one for the Quietech - ua-cam.com/video/QXTKhGYVRf4/v-deo.html
Never heard of a dedicated small engine oil. What is different about it? Never had a problem using a good quality (car) oil in small engine but never too late to learn something
This article covers most of it - wengerequipment.com/2018/03/28/why-you-should-use-small-engine-oil/ Small engine oils also usually have an anti-foaming additive because they use splash lubrication and run higher RPMs.
I'm curious of your reason saying don't use regular motor oil. Kohler doesn't make oil... I use what the engineer says to use. They call for a 10w30 oil I use a reputable companies 10w30 oil. Just like my truck requires a dexos approved oil and my farm store sells 10 dollars a gallon dexos certified oil so I use that. I think just changing the oil is the ticket. Not so much getting brand specific
If you do a little research you will find that "small engine oils" have different additives then "regular car oil". Since these small engines are air cooled and run at almost double the RPMs that a car engine normally does, the oil that is formulated for small engines has more zinc (helps with cooling) and anti-foaming agents. So while these engines call for 10w-30 it also states that the oil must also meet certain API ratings. Failing to use an oil that meets Yamaha's API specifications will void your warranty. I know that Kohler, or Kawasaki, or Yamaha, or any other company don't make their own oil, but they choose an oil formulation that meets their specifications to put their name on the bottle. Since these engines only oil use 1 quart of oil, I highly recommend spending the the extra couple of dollars to buy the right oil for the application.
@@PowerEquipmentMan I hear ya. I always thought that. I now run Rotella in all my small engines since it's rated for motorcycles as well as diesel engines
@@PowerEquipmentMan I was looking at my yamaha manual. The yamaha engineers require SE or higher oil. It be hard to find any oil that doesn't exceed SE standards now.
If you try to insert the oil suction tube threw the oil fill hole you will hit several obstructions. Using the oil dipstick hole gives you a clear shot to the bottom of the engine case.
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thank you. I reset the throttle spring stop nut to the specs in your video and am getting 28mph according to Waze. However, is there a power drop off doing that? I turned into a stiff wind and the cart slowed to about 20-21 and engine was straining. Thoughts?
I am assuming you have a PTV model with high speed gears. With the higher gear ratio you loose a lot of torque which will cause you to loose a lot of speed on hills and under a load. We sell a clutch kit that helps with this exact issue - ua-cam.com/video/kgtt-aZb7_w/v-deo.html
Using the drain plug save buying an extractor that will only be used for my cart, so at least show us where it is, the drain plug and what oil and how much...Just a suggestion.
Its not that hard to remove the bottom pan. Draining the oil through the drain plug. If the difference between a good job and a great job is 5 minutes by removing the pan, ill remove the pan.
Yamaha actually teaches golf courses to service their quietechs the way I do it in the video. If its recommended by Yamaha its good enough for me. I've got a bad back and can't be crawling around on the floor if I dont have to. Thanks for watching
The video also mentions how to remove the drain plug to drain the oil as well. It's not rocket science. The purpose of the video is to show people a better/easier way.
Be sure to check out our website for the new G29 Tune-up kits - www.powerequipmentman.com/product/yamaha-g29-tune-up-kit
Is it normal for these to smell like strong gas
Going to second all those great comments before mine." I hate you". Your description and knowledge is tops. That is what we need more in this country. Best to you.
Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video. Straightforward, to the point and thorough. Thank you very much.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, straight talk in layman's terms. I got a 2017 ready to do some upgrades. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching! I have a ton more videos coming out on these Quietechs, so keep watching!
Looking forward to more quiet tech videos! Great videos!! Keep it up
Very good video. Straightforward and detailed. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I appreciate good straightforward no nonsense instructions. Thank you. I think mine is a 2014. We haven’t changed the oil. Probably need to. Don’t use it much. Need to. Lol. I’ll be listening to all the ways we need to improve our sweet Yami baby.
Thanks for watching!
Really enjoyed this video. It was very helpful and easy to understand.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Very well done. I'll get the vacuum extractor ordered today.
Thanks for watching!
It would be nice if you stated the gap on the NGK Plug
Awesome video. Local golf course told me they do it the same way on theirs. Question, is there an Oil filter that needs replacing?
No these carts do not have an oil filter.
Hey man, great video I actually just bought a brand new 23. The question I have is do these things have an oil filter. Thanks for the video as well.
No, these engines do not use an oil filter.
Great channel. Thanks for the knowledge
Thanks for watching!
is there a specific kind of grease to use in the drive clutch zerk fittings?
We just use a regular multipurpose grease.
Copy that. I'm using Lucas Red N Tackey. I've had great results with this brand on my motorcycles. BTW
Your videos are very helpful. Keep up the good work !
Couldn’t find the video on adjusting throttle cables
I go over throttle cable adjustment at the end of the governor adjustment video - ua-cam.com/video/T8a0gV3Q_bg/v-deo.html
Fantastic video! Very easy to follow! Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, Im now to the golf cart world. Just got a 2019 Fleet 2 electric. Does the electric version needs an oil change too?
No an electric cart doesn't have any engine oil that will need changed. You will have rear differential oil that will need changed every 3 to 5 years. The biggest thing you need to keep an eye on is your water level in your batteries. Also clean any corrosion off the terminals and make sure they stay tight. And the cart should always be plugged in anytime you are not using it. Don't park it on concrete in your garage without a drip mat under it or the battery acid will stain your floor.
@@PowerEquipmentMan plug it in every any time I'm not using it?I asked the guy who dropped it off and he said no.I guess he was wrong. Lol... Also do happen to know the "G" version?Is it a G29 also? Appreciate the response.
@@ntrddragn The Drive 2 is still called a g29, just like the drive 1 was. I'm not sure why they didn't change it. Most of the accessories you look up for the "g29" is for the Drive 1 and wont fit the Drive 2. The model name for the Drive 2 electric is DR2E. I would highly recommend plugging your cart in every night unless you like to get stranded. If you are using it at different times throughout the day you don't need to plug it in-between uses, just when you are done with it for the day.
🙄
What brand grease do you use for 2022 Yamaha golf cart clutches
Thanks
This is what we use - amzn.to/3ADzuro
But any good multipurpose wheel bearing type grease will work.
Hey Jonas, great video. I plan on purchasing this exact golf cart in the next few months. I’m assuming the drain plug has a seal. Do you ever pull the plug and replace that seal and if so, how often? Love your videos, you have a new subscriber.
The drain plug on these use an aluminum washer, so if you never remove the drain plug there is no reason to replace it. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the tips very good video
Thanks for watching!
Good video! I couldnt figure out the skid plate so i just used the oil extractor like you did. The thing i dont get is the grease. Does it say to do that in the manual?
We were told at the Yamaha training school about greasing the clutches. I'm not sure if that info is in the the manual or not. I figure they wouldn't have put grease zerks on them if they weren't supposed to get greased.
Do you know if the 2015 Drive has grease fittings? I can’t spot any. Thanks in advance. Great videos collection BTW.
You should just have one grease fitting on each clutch just like the cart in this video and thats it.
great video as always. what is the correct spark pug gap please?
99% of the time with NGK plugs the gap doesn't need to be adjusted. If you really want to check it though it should be around .030"
@@PowerEquipmentMan I dropped the new plug, that is why I need to know the correct gap. my cart wants to go chug, chug like it is loading up when I first take off, any ideas please? I installed new gas and air filters and adjusted the throttle cable and it still does it. the throttle cable had about 1 inch slack in it. i adjusted it to take up the slack, but no change in the chugging on take off. runs fine at low and all good up to full throttle
What are you thoughts on adding sea foam to the oil 50 miles before you change it and adding it to the gas tank as well?
We do not do any additives to the oil. We do add Stabil to the fuel to keep it from going bad since a tank of gas last for so long in these carts.
How often do you recommend changing the spark plug? Thanks
Every time that you change the engine oil. Which should be at least once per year (depending on how much you use your cart).
Great video. Having a hard time try to find what type of grease is specified for the clutches. What type did y’all use?
We just use a multi-purpose grease.
Thanks for video, is it multipurpose lithium grease?
Is a torque wrench not necessary when installing the spark plug? Looks like Yamaha does recommend around 15lbs of torque when re-installing in the manual.
I've been a mechanic for over 20 years and never once used a torque wrench to install a spark plug...never had one fall out either. We call it a "calibrated elbow". If you are more comfortable using a torque wrench though, go ahead.
Very good video!
Thanks for watching!
Is it true that on the 2022 Yamaha put a thick protective coating on engine on the drain plug side? All around mine has cracks near the drain plug. Dealer told me it was normal and showed me a new crate engine with the same cracks. Have you seen this in your experience?
I have not heard anything about a coating. But Yamaha has always had rough castings for these engines. They may look cracked but they are really not. If it was cracked it would be leaking. Even if yours did somehow get cracked, you've got a 4 year warranty that would take care of it.
Just replaced the carburetor. Still have some spitting and sputter like on my cart just like this. Any recommendations?
Did you use an OEM carb (expensive) or aftermarket (cheap)?
@7:50, to grease that rear clutch zerk, can I just remove the bagwell, put the F/R switch to that neutral sweet spot and spin the clutch wheel until it is easy to access from the bagel area?
Yes, you can easily access the rear clutch by removing the bagwell.
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thanks! Can I also pull the rear diff fluid out with the same vacuum extractor I used on the motor oil or do I need to use the drain plug underneath?
Very helpful. Thank you. 👍👍❤
Thanks for watching!
Hi, if you do take out the bolt underneath the cart, is it a 7/16th bolt?
The drain bolt uses a 17mm wrench.
Thanks! Question, I have a 2017 that's been fine until today... It runs, then dies, and is sluggish to start and then stalls. I checked the plug, it was carboned but DRY and I cleaned it and reinstalled, but same result. The cart has been ran almost daily, except for the past few weeks I had shoulder surgery so not until today. The OIL looks BLACK. I had it at the dealer about a year ago for a rear spring upgrade and they said they did the service.... There's a gas smell and the tank gas smells varnished, which is weird because we fuel it when it gets to half and we have two acres in the country and use it quite frequently (go miles around the neighborhood too at least once a week) except for the past two weeks. Any ideas?
Sure sounds like its a fuel problem. It would be better to let the gas tank run almost empty and then fill it up with fresh fuel each time. If you keep refilling it when it is half full, the fuel that is in there is still old. Make sure the fuel that you are putting in it is fresh and hasn't been sitting around in a gas can. Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel each time you fill it as well.
I would start with draining the tank completely and adding fresh fuel. Oil needs to be changed at least once per year or more depending on use. So do an oil change now. If its carbureted, clean the carb (or have someone do it that has an ultrasonic cleaner). Replace the spark plug (don't just clean it). Remove the spark arrestor from the tip of the muffler and throw it in the trash (if it is a Quietech model).
Hi I have a 2018 Drive2, I just bought it and it is backfiring when it gets warmed up and is coming to a stop sometimes even after being at a stop with engine off for a second or two!! Do you have any recommendations on how I can fix this? I’ve already checked and made sure all the intake and exhaust bolts are tightened. Thanks in advance for your help. 🙂
If it is carbureted I would guess that the throttle cable is too tight or carb is dirty and it is holding the butterfly open a little bit allowing gas into the engine while its still turning over but not firing. If its EFI it could be an injector problem and would need to go to a dealer. Backfires are most commonly caused by excess fuel not getting burned.
I've got a 2018 Yamaha Drive 2 Quietech EFI Fleet that started showing the check engine/oil light (solid) right when I first press the accelerator after it's been sitting for any prolonged period. It's not flashing, and it only stays on for a few seconds and then goes away. It does not come back after the cart is warmed up. The oil was changed in October, and still looks very clean and is at the correct level. If anything, it may be just a little over. Any idea why the engine light is coming on after a cold start?
The check engine light should come on solid for a few seconds after the cart is started the first time to do a system check. What you are explaining sounds normal.
Question! Do these carts not have an oil filter?
No
Very Intuitive, thanks...
Thanks for watching!
I’m a complete novice when it comes to mechanical maintenance, what kind of grease would you recommend for the clutch? Awesome video by the way, keep up the good work.
Just use any type of multipurpose grease. I just updated the links above for a nice 3 oz grease gun and cartridges. Thanks for watching!
@@PowerEquipmentMan thanks a lot for the quick reply. Just ordered the grease gun you linked. I noticed on the website for the tune up kit that the brand of oil is Maxima, do you still prefer Kohler 10w30? Kohler 10w30 is the exact oil I use for my riding mower and figured that would be awesome being able to use it for the cart as well. Thanks again!
They are both good. If you already have the kohler oil just use that.
My 2020 Drive 2 EFI seems to be running very rich. The smell is killing me but the cart runs good. Any Ideas? It has 90 hrs. on it.
We have not personally ran into this issue, but I have talked to one or two guys that had. I gave them my suggestions, but never heard back if it fixed their issue. My first thought is that the fuel injector is leaking. If it has some type of debris in it that is not allowing it to close completely it would be leaking fuel into the intake the whole time the cart is running. If that isn't it, then I would look at the intake air temp sensor, cylinder temp sensor, and MAP sensor. If any of those sensors were giving a false reading it could tell the ECU to add too much fuel. For example, if the air temp sensor was telling the ECU that it was 40 degrees out when it was actually 90 degrees, the ECU would be telling it to add more fuel then it needs because its cold when its not. The problem is most of those sensors are difficult to test, and Yamaha doesn't even give specs for some of them. Chances are, even if you take it to a dealer, they will just start swapping out sensors until something fixes it. It also wouldn't hurt to check the spark arrestor on the tip of the muffler and replace the air filter. Keep in mind that these carts all come with a 4 year warranty, even if you aren't the original owner, the dealer SHOULD still honor it. If you have a good dealer close to you, just let them figure it out under warranty.
Is a Yamaha DR2A19PTV fuel injected and requires no fuel filter?
Yes, that is correct.
I noticed you didn't gap your plugs, was it pre gapped?
These NGK plugs come pre gapped to .030", I have never had one that wasn't gapped correctly right out of the box.
Concerned. 2021 drive 2 efi changed the oil. Checked before starting and stick measured ok. Siphoned using 2 different size tubes and could only get a 1/2 qt. Replaced with just a 1/2 qt of 10w-30 and the stick was right on. Should I leave it like this or go from underneath and drop the pan? Thanks Frank
Did you insert the suction tube through the dip stick hole or through the oil fill hole?
First time through the dip stick then the filler hole. Both times it felt like the tubes small and large were bottoming out?@@PowerEquipmentMan
@@frankszlachetka6382 Interesting. We service around 200 Yamahas a year just like how we show in this video and have never had an issue. We always add exactly 1 quart and it gets them exactly to the full line. This is how Yamaha actually recommends changing oil in the Quietechs and trains golf courses to service their fleets like this. I have to assume that you have a restriction somewhere and the tube isn't getting all the way to the bottom.
@@PowerEquipmentMan What is even more wierd is that before I drained it the dip stick read dead on and the oil looked brand new. Once I started siphoning the oil was jet black. Going to play it safe and go from underneath. Cheap insurance and peace of mind. Appreciate you taking the time to follow up. Thanks Frank
Update and 2 questions please: Went from underneath and removed the drain plug. Full qt came out. I have the standard FLEET model and did my own conversion to be street legal. Is my model supposed to have the plastic shield underneath it and if so would it make mine even quieter. 2nd an average cost for a dealer to install a high speed gear set. Thank You, Frank
Great information
Thanks for watching!
Any pointers on ignition switch wiring?
What are you trying to do?
Great vid
Thanks for watching!
I thought the rear end had a 90 wt gear oil to check. If not how is it lubricated??
Yes, you do have to change the rear diff oil every 4 to 5 years. We have several videos showing how to do that depending on which rear axle your cart has. Here is the one for the Quietech - ua-cam.com/video/QXTKhGYVRf4/v-deo.html
Never heard of a dedicated small engine oil. What is different about it? Never had a problem using a good quality (car) oil in small engine but never too late to learn something
This article covers most of it - wengerequipment.com/2018/03/28/why-you-should-use-small-engine-oil/
Small engine oils also usually have an anti-foaming additive because they use splash lubrication and run higher RPMs.
No oil filter replacement?
No, these Yamaha's do not have an oil filter.
What size is the dip stick tube ?
I couldn't tell you the size of the tube off hand. It uses the smallest hose that comes with the vacuum pump I have listed in the description.
What happens if i put regular 10w30 full synthetic?
after i put the oil you recommended my cart wont stop smoking.
Is it over-full on oil?
I would not recommend using a synthetic.
Is there a oil filter.
No, these engines do not have an oil filter.
Is there no oil filter?
No, these engines do not use an oil filter.
Does my Yamaha G14-A have a oil filter
No
Nice video
Thanks for watching!
And why did you pull the spark plug?
To replace it? We replace the spark plug every time we change oil.
I'm curious of your reason saying don't use regular motor oil. Kohler doesn't make oil... I use what the engineer says to use. They call for a 10w30 oil I use a reputable companies 10w30 oil. Just like my truck requires a dexos approved oil and my farm store sells 10 dollars a gallon dexos certified oil so I use that. I think just changing the oil is the ticket. Not so much getting brand specific
If you do a little research you will find that "small engine oils" have different additives then "regular car oil". Since these small engines are air cooled and run at almost double the RPMs that a car engine normally does, the oil that is formulated for small engines has more zinc (helps with cooling) and anti-foaming agents. So while these engines call for 10w-30 it also states that the oil must also meet certain API ratings. Failing to use an oil that meets Yamaha's API specifications will void your warranty. I know that Kohler, or Kawasaki, or Yamaha, or any other company don't make their own oil, but they choose an oil formulation that meets their specifications to put their name on the bottle.
Since these engines only oil use 1 quart of oil, I highly recommend spending the the extra couple of dollars to buy the right oil for the application.
@@PowerEquipmentMan I hear ya. I always thought that. I now run Rotella in all my small engines since it's rated for motorcycles as well as diesel engines
@@PowerEquipmentMan I was looking at my yamaha manual. The yamaha engineers require SE or higher oil. It be hard to find any oil that doesn't exceed SE standards now.
any oil filter??
No, these engines do not use an oil filter. If they did, we would have covered it in the video.
Thanks for watching!
"easier to suck out". And when hot any metal particles will be suspended in the oil.
Correct.
Why not use the oil fill hole to drain the oil?
If you try to insert the oil suction tube threw the oil fill hole you will hit several obstructions. Using the oil dipstick hole gives you a clear shot to the bottom of the engine case.
@@PowerEquipmentMan
Thank you. I reset the throttle spring stop nut to the specs in your video and am getting 28mph according to Waze. However, is there a power drop off doing that? I turned into a stiff wind and the cart slowed to about 20-21 and engine was straining. Thoughts?
I have a’22 EFI
I am assuming you have a PTV model with high speed gears. With the higher gear ratio you loose a lot of torque which will cause you to loose a lot of speed on hills and under a load. We sell a clutch kit that helps with this exact issue - ua-cam.com/video/kgtt-aZb7_w/v-deo.html
No oil filter ?
No, these engines are splash lubricated.
Using the drain plug save buying an extractor that will only be used for my cart, so at least show us where it is, the drain plug and what oil and how much...Just a suggestion.
Its not that hard to remove the bottom pan. Draining the oil through the drain plug. If the difference between a good job and a great job is 5 minutes by removing the pan, ill remove the pan.
Yamaha actually teaches golf courses to service their quietechs the way I do it in the video. If its recommended by Yamaha its good enough for me. I've got a bad back and can't be crawling around on the floor if I dont have to. Thanks for watching
So everybody is supposed to have a vacuum extractor. OK cool.
The video also mentions how to remove the drain plug to drain the oil as well. It's not rocket science. The purpose of the video is to show people a better/easier way.
No oil filter?
No. These engines are splash lubricated.