Ya dont laugh. I tore down a pontiac engine that someone rebuilt and forgot to bolt the little curved tube back on the block. The oil pan was full of broken off dip sticks and one brazed together. Every new dipstick would go straight into the crank. Another funny note was the crank rod journals were ground .010 under but standard bearings were installed. It never knocked when it ran. Hard to believe
@@tokysh5218 Every 6 months... also depends on how much you drive. I work from home and drive barely 6k miles a year. I still check my car every month or so
Mike Y So few people think of this. You can also keep a bike pump in your car in case that’s not enough. This can also help if you picked up a nail or something that causes a low leak leaving you with low tire pressure at the end of a work day, but it’s slow enough that you can pump it up and get to where you need to get.
A few other things that are good to check... 1. Look for small cracks forming in the sidewalls of the tires. If you don't put a lot of miles on a car, and it sits outside a lot, the rubber compounds in the tire can become brittle and crack in the sidewalls before you wear off all the tread. Tire shine especially for crack prevention might help, but you have to remember to spray the inside sidewalls too. 2. Automatic transmission fluid smell/color/level, although some cars don't even have dipsticks, or the manufacturers claim you never need to replace the ATF ("lifetime" whatever that means). 3. Power steering fluid level check (although less cars have power steering pumps these days). 4. Check the battery terminals (posts) for corrosion. If you have a wet-cell battery, check the water levels, and add distilled water as necessary. 5. In the summer, with the car fully-warmed up, and the air conditioning on, verify both electric cooling fans come on after the car has been idling for a while. 6. If you don't know the car's history, check the temperature rating of antifreeze using a hydrometer before it starts getting cold outside. After adding engine oil, I always start the engine and let it run for about a minute, shut it off, then wait another minute before I recheck the oil level.
All I’ve ever own was high mileage vehicles. Lowest one I’ve owned at the time I bought it was 175,000 miles. Everyday or every 3 days I always check the fluids and tires. Every week I clean filters, and then change my oil around the 5,000 mile mark. Having or buying a high mileage vehicle isn’t a bad thing. Just know how to check everything and your good to go.
I bought one new vehicle once. I remember being really nice and not using the foam brush at the car wash, hand wiping instead. Even after a month I was wondering where all these scratches were coming from. Contrast to a different beater car I had and someone gave me a light bonk when they ran a stop sign. "I don't need to report this if you don't care."
Most people don't read the owners manual to a car. Maybe they should make an app that gives you reminders with a 30 second turorial so to keep peoples attention.
Every parent should be teaching their kids these things. But the newer gen parents dont know how to change a tire or oil. Most cars now dont even have keys. So soon ppl wont even know how to start a car with a key.
A hot motor will read low as the oil is circulated throughout, a cold car will have the oil collected in the pan for a proper reading. Oil is tricky as overfilling causes seal leaks and pressure buildup , not enough oil will cause seizing of the internals. It’s all about that sweet spot baby.
I suggest that you do what the manual suggests re hot or cold oil check. My Odyssey says hot oil level check. My Civic says nothing, so I presume cold.
There are two things I'd like to add to this excellent video: - Brakepads: unless you can have a good look at both the inner and outer brakepads, take off the wheel at least once, preferably twice a year. The caliper slide pins don't wear very fast, but eventually they will start to move less smoothly and can start sticking, resulting in uneven brake pad wear. If for example you only look at the outside pad, it may seem completely fine, meanwhile the inside pad can be heavily worn or in more severe cases even have started wearing at an angle. The earlier you catch this, the cheaper the fix is probably going to be. - Brake fluid and coolant: these are both closed circuits, you shouldn't have to add any fluid. If you do need to add coolant, this indicates a leak. If you do need to add brake fluid, this indicates a leak or worn brakes (the thinner the brake pads get, the more fluid remains in the caliper to compensate). In any case, adding fluid does not fix the cause of the low fluid level. You should only add fluid if it is to get you home or to a mechanic.
@@Gman07024No, because it's a closed circuit. If the coolant level drops, then that means coolant is leaving the system somewhere. This can be through a leaking headgasket, leaking hose, leaking radiator, etc. But a properly functioning vehicle should not lose any coolant. The level you see at the coolant reservoir can vary, this is normal. Because when the coolant gets hot, it expands, so the level will seem higher. And once the vehicle is cool, the level will seem lower again. There will be markers on the reservoir indicating the proper level(s). Some vehicles will have markers for both cold and hot, others will have a minimum and maximum level indicator for cold, etc. It's not always immediately obvious how to interpret the markers, in which case you can check your owners manual.
@MicraHakkinen oh okay so you'd only have to replace the coolant is it's no good anymore or after you've fixed your coolant loss problem. Can brake fluid "go bad" ?
@@Gman07024 Yes it can. It's a closed circuit so if you're losing brake fluid, there's a leak somewhere. However many types of brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, DOT5.1) are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture from the air. Most manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid every two to three years for the hygroscopic kinds, and about 5 years for the silicone-based DOT5, again your owners manual will likely tell you exactly what's recommended for your vehicle. Also make sure to use the correct brake fluid as indicated by the manual. Using the wrong kind can lead to extensive damage to the entire braking system. Over time the water content of hygroscopic brake fluid increases. This is bad for two reasons. First of all, brakes can get very hot (which is normal), but if there's too much water content in the brake fluid, then this water can evaporate and create vapor bubbles in the fluid. Fluid can't be compressed, so it transmits the force from your brake pedal to your brake calipers. However gas can be compressed, so if a vapor bubble forms, pressing on the brake pedal just compresses that bubble, instead of forcing the brake pads against the rotors. While it is unlikely for this to happen under normal driving conditions, it's better to prevent the possibility of it happening at all. Secondly a high water content in the brake fluid can cause brake lines to corrode from within. This is not only much more expensive to repair compared to just changing the fluid on time, but springing a leak in a brake line can obviously be very dangerous as well.
Something I would add to the discussion about tire checks: look at the date codes on the tire sidewalls, and make sure yours aren't too old. Five years is generally considered to be the useful service life of a tire. I replaced a seven-year-old set of tires, which weren't very worn because I did not drive the car much, and was shocked at the improvement to the handling and braking performance of the car. Rubber hardens over time!
I experienced this twice. I had an MR2 that I only drove in the summer. At year 6 on a set of tires the ride went to heck. I was thinking of getting a wheel alignment done when I talked to my mother. Her first words were, how old are the tires. A new set of performance tires and I had a new ride, fabulous. My mothers knowledge is extremely broad, either she has an answer or she will say I don't know about that. Car number tow was a Buick Le Sabre, an old helicopter pilots car, low mileage, all service done by a garage by the airport where all the pilots get service. Tires looked mint, he had died a few years before and I bought it from his widow, no visible wear. I was taking the car on a run to the east coast from the Rockies, where it would stay. At the end of the first days driving I noticed the date on the tires, 7 year old. I had them replaced the next day. It felt like all four tires were out of balance. The Saskatchewan farmer who ran the garage said he would put them on some farm equipment.
@@meltingspot1064 Really depends on what kind of tires you get. Personally I normally spend around $800. Do some research and order what you think is best yourself and have professionals install them. Only time I had tires straight from a shop, they where pretty shitty and where unbalanced and got them rebalanced 2 months later. Tire quality really changes how a car feels, cheaping out has a big impact.
These are all part of drivers education in Norway (except maybe checking brake pads yourself), though sadly most people forget this info the second they "graduate".
@@tsjeriAu - It still stays with some, which makes the roads a bit safer, I'm sure. Basic maintenance should be required knowledge and made easy enough for most people by the manufacturers. (No dipstick deletes like are becoming more common, or air filter boxes requiring tools to open, etc.)
In Germany it was part of my driver's education because my teacher was great, but is is officially obligated to have basic understandings of your car and the examinator may ask you during your test (to get your licence) to show how to check engine oil, or where I can see if brake fluid level is properly. Also, you need to go through a first-aid cursus and get prove that your eye-sight is healthy. Additionally, emergency braking is also part of education. (and in my case a winter drifting cause my teacher just is the best) In The Netherlands eye-sight is checked by simply question of examinator to read number plate at certain distance, often times a joke of a test. Then, just hop into the car, drive along at speed limit, brake hard, don't overlook Dutch bicycle's and park you car correctly (corrections are allowed) which can even be a simple straight on parking, not even rear parking or side parking. Lol. Oh ... and better never drive here because 1. drivers are morons who think the road is only belonging to them 2. any possible ticket will cost you lots of money. In Belgium drivers are not obligated to follow official driving education. They can choose to either get official education, or learn from someone who has his/her licence longer than 8 years. Learning can thus be by getting lessons from your parents. You can drive around as long as they sit next to you.
Pro tip for checking your tail lights: Back the car up to the garage door, or wall. Test the brake lights and see in the rear view mirror if the tail lights are reflecting off that wall. This is just a quick check method though.
My method is to find an office building with reflective glass, park so I can see the rear of the car reflected back at me, then tap dem brakes. You'll know immediately if you've got a faulty brake light. 💪
Also for the shocks/struts: push down on each corner of the car, let go, and observe: if it comes back up and stabilizes, you're good. If it bounces about 2 times and stabilizes, they're going bad. If it keeps flopping around like the car's on a waterbed, those shocks/struts are a danger to your life and anyone else driving next to you.
My Prius has over 300,000 miles and runs like new. It's never had any repairs. I just follow the maintenance schedule religiously by using a program on my laptop called Automotive Wolf that tracks the maintenance schedule, expenses, fuel usage etc. It calculates a cost to own and operate the vehicle taking into consideration all those factors and my Prius is at $0.05 per mile. My Jeep costs $1.63 per mile. So not only is my Toyota extremely reliable it's also very cost efficient.
@@HookupCultureCommunityYep, the battery replacement cost (not that big, especially vs. BEV/PHEV, but still important in the overall TCO) should be incorporated in calculating that cost per mile etc.
It is certainly neat, but I wonder, what happens when you unscrew it? Does the gravity empty the oil in it every times you turn off the engine or do you have to unscrew it quickly before it leaks sludge everywhere on the engine?
my BMW does this too and it's pretty great. it's in a housing so the filter is a cartridge; makes high quality oil filters extremely cheap. I'm talking 3 to 5 dollars for a Bosch. also, no mess with removing it, because as stated, gravity drains all the oil from the cartridge when you drain the oil too. its great
Yeah my E36 BMW has a oil filter housing with the filter inside, it really is easy to change, as you dont get oil dripping down, after unscreqing the 13mm bolt the oil from the housing drains down. It's pretty neat
Before driving at night or before going on a long car trip, check to see that ALL your exterior lights are operating correctly. There's no need to give the police an easy excuse to stop you. Especially when traveling out of state.
And that includes license plate light, which is often overlooked! I got profiled in my '94 F-150, and that was all they had on me. Glad I only got a warning, and just spliced the wires back together.
Good point also remember that ANY external light is subject to being graded section of a state safety inspection........ That means if the safety inspector wants to be a jerk they COULD fail you for let’s say Fog Lights. Not legally required but if it’s there it is subject to inspection..
I took an auto tech class in freshman year and they teach the same. Its a shame that now they got rid of shop classes last year or I would have taken it again. They rather have everyone go to college than learn about cars.
I have a 2015 Ford Expedition and I kept up with my tire rotations, engine oil, coolant, Rear end gear fluid, transmission fluid changes and haven’t had any engine problems at all. Great video👍
Great video! Quick note to anybody changing windshield wiper blades: If you keep the OEM blade assembly, you can often purchase replacement rubber inserts (saves money and less waste!)
Can't believe you missed the most important fluid, blinker fluid. Just by driving around on the roads today, you see that low blinker problem is a highly common yet dangerous mistake. Maybe can you do a video of why Lexus, BMW, and Mercedes leak this fluid faster than any other car?
It's sometimes the basic stuff that we always tend to forget to check. I have been following all of your videos and it's such a joy to see you sharing such immense knowledge you have with everyone. Much love to you brother, all the way from India ❤️
That last tip on check brakes lights is a good one. Better than using an umbrella to hold the pedal down. I used to park backwards in front of a store and use the glass reflection to check all those lights with my rear view mirror.
It would be great if cars had a switch somewhere in the cabin (like under the steering wheel or something) that you could flick on to engage all or selected lights. A bit like what they have in Aeroplane cockpits. It would save having to ask someone to step on the brakes for you
@@garymathe9863 I usually use my cinder block on the accelerator when Im on the highway. Saves having to hold the pedal down with your foot when you dont have cruise control
Also when at a stop light, you can sometimes see your brake lights reflected in the front of the car that's behind you. But I would suggest getting out and looking at your license plate lights, if you have two lights on your license plate, and one of the lights not working, it can be difficult to see that in just a reflection.
I don’t understand the thumbs down stuff. This guy is a mechanical engineer. He is giving us some of his knowledge for free. He studied this stuff worked hard to get the knowledge and I’m sure having my own kids in college cost him big time financially. Take his advice he knows what he is talking about. So if he leaves out windshield washer use your common sense. 👍
The way your content just flows through the videos makes me feel like they last less then they actually do. Thanks again for all the info, and for encouraging us to do it ourselves and properly. Cheers from Brazil!
Hey Jason, can you also show the Audi drivers how to properly set the adaptive trace control systems on their cars? They usually set them to follow your car way too close on the highway.
Usually, they are tailgating someone who isn't pulling over when not overtaking, I don't condone tailgating but....f***...the amount of oblivious, arrogant drivers there are out there whom hog the outside and middle lanes, refusing to move back into a lane with space beside them is ridiculous to the point I actually understand their frustrations (even though I don't endorse). If everyone adhered to proper overtaking procedures our highways would not be nearly as clogged up as they are. Audi's drivers are just more sensitive to this problem than other drivers are. :-D
Thank you SO much for this video! Even though I've been driving for about 6 years, I feel I was never taught how to properly care for my car (other than just take it in for oil changes and tire rotations). I'm now buying a new car, and really wanted to do my research on how to get the best, longest life from it. I really wish drivers were offered more information on general care both when they start driving, and buy a new car.
lasagna bloke this is so funny 😂 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 this joke is the new internet sensation 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂very funny m’lady😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This is a great video with informative information for everyone. Another thing that's extremely important is the quality of the fluid that you use in your vehicle. The amazing part is by using a better fluid everything cost significantly less money in the long run😊
Something to note about Tire Pressure. I hurts when i see this, and when i didnt know anything even i used to do it. DO NOT use the "MAX PSI" rating on your tires as a marker for how much you should fill it. I see it alot where people who are airing up their tires, will look at the PSI rating on the tiers and fill it up to that. This video is correct. Use the door sticker or manual, NOT the tire itself.
Yes, but in the case of non-standard tires/wheels, you generally want about 10 psi below the max rating if the tires are not similar to the standard tires. (i.e.: off road tires, under/oversized rims)
Let the car rest for a night before you check this stuff. I once tried to refill the coolant after coming home from work... It was worse than a shaked coke bottle :D
Dude 😂most cars have a label right next to the radiator cap, warning you not to open when the Engine is hot & leave the car to cool down before opening
@Yaserinski Shahidovich: After 15 Years those stickers tend to either become black from the dirt or just disappear ;) I was lucky that I reacted quick and closed it up once the hissing noise started But actually it was a good thing, now i will never forget to let the car cool before opening anything.
Can you make a video about driving habits to make your car last a long time. Such as proper shifting vs bad shifting that can lead to wear or appropriate loading of the vehicle and engine as well as being consious of temperature. How downshifting can affect your transmission if done poorly or whether to do it all. Your regular speed on highways and how that affect your car over time. Parking on inclines vs flat parkings. Hard braking or harsh cornering. Overfilling your fuel tank by rocking the car side to side. Putting too much water in your coolant. Using in appropriate oil. I'm no expert but these are some of the things I wonder about. I want to make my car last long but at the same time I'm an Uber so I have to use it extensively every day and can't always baby it. A proper understanding of all of the factors to allow us to use the fill potential of the vehicle within a margin of safety and care
Low-fi tip for checking your rear lights - do it with the back of the car to a wall in low light- like your garage, or a parking garage or at night. You'll be able to see the lights reflected and tell which side they come from. Easy quick check whenever it occurs to you and you're reversed into a spot
I live up north so I keep my tire psi at 35. You lose some psi in the winter so it's good to keep it as least 2 to 4 psi higher than recommend. I find some lights redundant such as parking lights and license plate lights. Purely for aesthetic. Every car should come with fog lights. It's useful when your low beam is out.
No matter what make of car you have, the key to keep it running well is preventative maintenance. By doing inspections you can catch something before it turns into a major and expensive repair
Just the right season for this video. Us in northern territories dash to fix the small annoyances before winter sets in. Having to crawl under your car in 5°F with total numb fingers is not fun.
Could you do a video about how diesel emissions equipment work? Like diesel particulate filters, urea injection, and exhaust gas recirculation coolers. I feel like this equipment has changed the game for diesel and made them less reliable therefore not as economical of a purchase as they were in the past where you could get 500k miles out of the motor with only wear and tear up keep. I know heavy duty diesel is not your norm but I feel that the explanation is in your wheelhouse. Thank you. Engineering Explained.
I think this is something everyone with a car should do as they're pretty simple inspections and you only do it maybe a few times a month. Sadly, most people dont do any of these things which is why their car breaks down on certain parts because they were driving with no fluid the whole time.
Excellent video! I am a mechanic and the one pollen/cabin filter I refuse to check are the older Mazdas as they are a pain in the backside to remove and replace. Unless it is dire I replace them but I charge out 30 minutes for is as the glove boxes need to be removed and the kick panel as well to get more access and even then it is in an awkward position to remove the screws for the cabin filter cover - all in all, a pain in the ass
Excellent video Sir! It seems like just yesterday I discovered this channel. Now about 2.5 million subscribers later it's still going strong! I really appreciate all the great knowledge you've shared with us. Keep up the good work!
billandyeng Yeah, it could even be like the temp gauge on my car (I'm not even sure if its tied into anything). It always shows "middle" after its warmed up. Whether that's gentle cruising or bashing gears 9k rpm and hearing the exhaust get so hot it makes strange noises (gurgles) and then you know its hot because you can't make it shoot flames out the tailpipes unless its been warmed up aggressively and the exhaust ignites the excess fuel. But it always shows "middle" like 3 minutes of sitting there... Never goes past it... What a useful gauge! I've heard they don't even move even when serious engine damage occurs and water is boiling out at 240-260 *F... I'll be putting in a real one so I know when its overheating (they are notorious for that, so its a real shame they don't have a real gauge to begin with).
A lot of manufacturers did that with their temp gauges because customers brought their cars in thinking something was wrong if it went up and down. So now most gauges just stay in the middle between 160F and 230F. Or it could be like this subaru I believe and some others, where it doesn't have a temp gauge anymore. That's how my BMW is. It just has a light to tell you when it's overheating.
@@kern417 Same in my car, but it can be found from drive computer's debug menu. Not very user friendly solution, but I had to use it as coolant pressurisation is not very reliable so sometimes coolant boiled before fan turned on.
Other an checking the brake pad thickness and suspension this is all pretty simple easy to do stuff. Another check you may want to do is to check the rubber "boot" on your CV joint. Look for cracks or tars in the rubber. That being said, I'm a DIYer and as a retired guy I took a part time job at a local gas station to keep busy. In spite of how relatively simple to do these inspections are I am surprised how many people don't know how to do any of these things. Some things I've heard are, " oh? there's still oil in it, I don't need an oil change". The oil I just checked for them is the blackest black I've ever seen and in one case they had the vehicle for 3 years and had never changed the oil. Or, " do you think it's okay for me to go on the highway to XXXXXX right now?" , after a heavy snowfall. I said, " as long as your tires are in good condition" to which she says " oh they are new I just got them from my Uncle's car". The tires were all seasons all worn to a point where you couldn't hook a finger nail if you dragged it across the tire. Another big on is when someone drives for 10-15 minutes to get to the gas station and adjusts the tire pressure to the pressure on the door jamb label. I have told so many people that as a tire is driven on the air inside it heats up and the tire pressure increases between 2-3 psi. So they have lowered their tire pressures back to 35 psi but are now running their tires at 2-3 psi low which has a negative effect on tire performance, gas mileage and tire wear.
Literally everything he mentioned here is very easy to understand and to do and will save you A LOT of money spent at a workshop if you do it yourself even if you've never done it before. I learnt this the hard way :(
And teach pt cruisers and corolla drivers what blinkers mean. Or maybe tell them to stop looking at their phone while driving so they can notice my blinkers lmao - a BMW driver
These are great easy tips for anyone to check. I will say though the oil should be a little warm to get a more accurate reading. Turn your car on for a couple mins then off. There is some pressure that needs to build up and after a little time it will regulate. Take your dipstick reading there.
Great video. Perhaps a point...always a good idea to check your owner manual to see when is the best time to check your engine oil level (i.e. when the car is cold, or warm, or a little bit after running). Weird, I know, but many different makes recommend different times to check.
Speaking of tires, could please discuss the date codes on a tire and why it's important to pay attention to it? I really like your videos. Great job. Thanks.
Love this Channel. i was a former mechanic (Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge) and im looking to go back to this job. God i missing to have dirty hands, hearing the engine noise, the smell aof new tires.....
Just to note that brake fluid does not require topping up. The fluid will go down as the brakes wear and the pistons sit further in the calipers. The only other reason the fluid would drop is you have a leak needs servicing.
Soon to be a new driver, I wanted to make sure I knew how to take care of a car as I'm planning on getting one in the next month. Thanks for the informative video! I honestly expected that more would be needed to keep a car is good shape, but it seems that you just need to check these things often enough and make sure they get the attention they need.
Good tip, I just had to fill mine up from min to max and I was about to change my pads so will I now be “overfilled” if I replace the pads without taking some fluid out?
@@cartere9981 if you are changing the pads yourself, you can use a turkey baster to take some fluid out before performing the work. Worst that will happen if you don't, the brake fluid will overflow and run onto some paint. Brake fluid strips paint with ease and will cause rust.
They should have this as a mandatory class in high school. Before you even get a Pink Slip to drive make this part of the Drivers Education Test to pass. Same with changing a flat tire. If you can't pass NO PINK SLIP.
A quick tip about checking your rear brake lights on your car, put a pole or umbrella between the seat and brake pedal and DO NOT START THE CAR, turn the key to number 2 on the ignition barrel. Then you will be able to check them yourself any where without the need of a friend or a glass door. Plus you can check your reversing lights by not starting your car turn your key on the ignition barrel to number 2 then put your gear stick in reverse then you can check your reverse lights are working.
Jason, your videos are so helpful and entertaining -- would you consider jumping on some mountain bikes to huck, flow, and send some trail, then suss out the physics of it all? There's design and engineering of the bicycles and components in a spectrum of trail conditions that is totally glossed over by the cycling crowd. Your approach would be a revelation for knowledge hungry dirt surfers.
An easy way to test brake lights is to place some long-ish object (I use a snow brush) between the seat and brake pedal and move the seat forward to jam it in.
Fantastic vid on the basics. Very clear on indications which will help you catch things early. I think I’ll get my 14 year old to watch this before I do my next service and see if he can catch anything.
Can you guys give a little more info about this subject?... I've always thought it would be a good idea to maintain the trans fluid but to be honest I've never really messed with it because of all the different opposing opinions all over the internet as to why you shouldn't mess with it kind of made me freeze up when it comes to the trans because of the fear of effing shit up...I'd hate to do a trans flush and fluid change on a good working trans only to run into issues shortly after What are your guys opinions on that? Cuz I do believe it is important and want change the fluid in mine
HomeGrownPyro my 07 acura tl base nav has 140k miles on it and i dont think the transmission fluid has ever been changed. I brought it to my mechanic and he took a looked at it and it was kind of like light ish brown color(it didnt look like it was disgusting) he told me it was still in good condition. The thing is that my car in 3rd gear and around 1300 - 2000 rpms sometimes starts shaking like the engine is stalling out but it stops once i get the rpms higher or change gears. Also another thing i notice is on high rpms (above 6k) when it changes gears it kicks. Ive driven my dad suv hard and in high rpms the transmission doesnt kick its just a natural hard shift like it’s supposed to do. I bought the car with 136k miles on it and im thinking of doing a tranny oil change at the dealership since i want the car to last as long as possible. Im not doing any engine mods on my car since it would be just a waste of money. I will just try to just keep maintenance up on it. Ive never cheaped out on maintenance on it since i had it. I did an oil change on it, new engine air filter, and alignment as soon as i bought it. Recently i bought new brake pads and put those on cause it was an emergency. But im looking to replace all the rotors and calipers and pads(except the front pads) on it. Soon will be some lighter and better looking rims cause the previous owner had some gloss chrome heavy ass mexican wheels on it.
transmission fluid is the oil that keeps the gearbox LEGO set pieces of rubbing metal parts in the Gearbox running like a Swiss watch mechanism...it is the ''*engine oil*'' for a gearbox on an Automatic car..VITAL to change according to manual API/SAE viscosity and intervals! Dont use Flush fluids, just change them with fresh auto fluid in accordance to manual recommendations or risk 5000 dollar replacement fine!
E85 13B no. Thats a bad analogy. The correct one would be if not running the car in a long time You dont workout= bad You dont run the car= bad Working out pretty often =good Running the car pretty often= bad Working out too hard with no breaks= bad Driving super agressive in higher rpms = bad Theres a balance to everything If you drive agressive all the time i feel bad for your car. Once a while wont do damage
Bonus tip: If you have a CVT transmission it is good you change the CVT fluid every 35k miles to keep it fresh. Recommended CVT fluids for the Lineartronic TR580: Genuine Subaru CVTF II Valvoline full synthetic CVT Amsoil full synthetic CVT Eneos CVT All of those 3 are compatible with the Subaru CVTF. I cannot speak foe the TR699 though. This os only for TR580s. I put Valvoline fluid in my 2.5i Forester 2 weeks ago and the CVT feels great. 6 quarts out and 6 quarts in. First the car will accept only 4 quarts. Close the filler hole, start the engine, cycle the transmission through gears, shut the car off and pour in the rest 2 quarts in.
Thank you! That is correct 100 %! From experience, I change brake pads when they have around 3 mm thickness of active part. Happened to loose active part, due to hard braking in traffic environment. Were less than 2 mm ;)... Still, you are the first to hear from, this useful tip ... Keep up! A very good day to you!
Shlomi Vinny i started working on my car with no previous knowledge. First work i did was change the brake pads by myself and it was pretty easy except it was really dirty lol. Next im looking to install some new rotors. Some stuff i wont do by myself is engine stuff since i dont want to mess anything up, ill let a mechanic or the dealer deal with that
Great start! Although brake and suspension stuff should ALWAYS be checked out by a 3rd party (friend with knowledge\experience, mechanic, etc.), just like a 2nd opinion from a doctor, sometimes you miss something. Stay safe and always torque your nuts! :D
In the aviation maintenance community we NEVER use digital gauges. Also highly recommend against the ones with the little stick that comes out of the back. Best gauges I’ve ever used were the ones with a dial, that has a check valve built in.
I think it's important to check for the serpentine belt as well and the timing belt (if it has one, some cars have a timing chain instead). They also wear out with time if you keep your car long enough. You do need some tools to replace them, but still cheaper than taking it to the mechanic and cheaper than your car breaking down because the belt broke.
Or how many people inflate their tires to the pressure written on the tire. You know, the _max_ pressure? Ugh. Check the sticker in the door, don't fill it to the max pressure. 🤦♂️
I've used my phone to check my tie rod ends, control arm and trackbar bushings(solid axle vehicles) too. You could probably check U-joints too by switching between drive and reverse, but those are usually a bit more obvious.
It's good to see that subaru started puting their oil filters on the top of the engine. Changing the oil filter in my old forester is a messy messy job.
My Mazda 3 gets serviced every 6 months so I do my routine checks every 3 months. My dad takes care of his 10 year old Toyota the same way and it's running fine.
Only thing I’d add is to shake each tire if you get it off the ground. It shouldn’t have much play. If it does that indicates some problems with your suspension parts(control arm, tie rod ends, etc)
Thank you for posting this video; this is very useful for someone (such as myself) who would like to know more about basic maintenance of a car, but isn't very knowledgeable about the topic!
I think one other thing that's super important is to check for rust! Wheels arches, exhaust, suspension components etc. You need to deal with it before it gets bad.
This reminded me of a joke, in a car parts store the customer says: Could I get a longer dipstick, because this one doesn't reach the oil!
OH NOO
😂
Hahaha
It took me a second to get it but man that’s funny
Ya dont laugh. I tore down a pontiac engine that someone rebuilt and forgot to bolt the little curved tube back on the block. The oil pan was full of broken off dip sticks and one brazed together. Every new dipstick would go straight into the crank. Another funny note was the crank rod journals were ground .010 under but standard bearings were installed. It never knocked when it ran. Hard to believe
0:31 Tires
1:45 Brakes
2:25 Shock Absorbers
2:51 Engine Oil
4:22 Brake Fluid
4:31 Coolant
4:45 Windshield Wiper Fluid
4:51 Engine Air Filter
5:17 Cabin Air Filter
5:42 Windshield Wiper Blades
5:56 Lights
Should you check all these every 2 weeks? Or what?
@@tokysh5218 Every 6 months... also depends on how much you drive. I work from home and drive barely 6k miles a year. I still check my car every month or so
Don't forget your flux capacitor
Thank you
@@peterquest6406and the blinker fluid
For cars still equipped with a spare tire, it's good to check the pressure at least once a year.
Mike Y So few people think of this. You can also keep a bike pump in your car in case that’s not enough. This can also help if you picked up a nail or something that causes a low leak leaving you with low tire pressure at the end of a work day, but it’s slow enough that you can pump it up and get to where you need to get.
You just blew my mind, im gonna check this right now!
A few other things that are good to check...
1. Look for small cracks forming in the sidewalls of the tires. If you don't put a lot of miles on a car, and it sits outside a lot, the rubber compounds in the tire can become brittle and crack in the sidewalls before you wear off all the tread. Tire shine especially for crack prevention might help, but you have to remember to spray the inside sidewalls too.
2. Automatic transmission fluid smell/color/level, although some cars don't even have dipsticks, or the manufacturers claim you never need to replace the ATF ("lifetime" whatever that means).
3. Power steering fluid level check (although less cars have power steering pumps these days).
4. Check the battery terminals (posts) for corrosion. If you have a wet-cell battery, check the water levels, and add distilled water as necessary.
5. In the summer, with the car fully-warmed up, and the air conditioning on, verify both electric cooling fans come on after the car has been idling for a while.
6. If you don't know the car's history, check the temperature rating of antifreeze using a hydrometer before it starts getting cold outside.
After adding engine oil, I always start the engine and let it run for about a minute, shut it off, then wait another minute before I recheck the oil level.
This, so many spares ive tried to use for people are flat because they don't ever check them!
Indeed.
I love how you never ask people to like or subscribe, I watch all of your videos
But you haven’t subscribed or liked any of them
This guy really knows his stuff. Appreciation from Pakistan.
And you’ve never subscribed…..rude…..
Lol really? I havent noticed. Im liking the vid just bcz of that lmao. Now lets tune in.. i know the basics but lets see what advice he.. gives.
This comment made me subscribe.
All I’ve ever own was high mileage vehicles. Lowest one I’ve owned at the time I bought it was 175,000 miles. Everyday or every 3 days I always check the fluids and tires. Every week I clean filters, and then change my oil around the 5,000 mile mark. Having or buying a high mileage vehicle isn’t a bad thing. Just know how to check everything and your good to go.
I bought one new vehicle once. I remember being really nice and not using the foam brush at the car wash, hand wiping instead. Even after a month I was wondering where all these scratches were coming from.
Contrast to a different beater car I had and someone gave me a light bonk when they ran a stop sign.
"I don't need to report this if you don't care."
oil change is uneccsary 5,000 miles just do the paper test best indicator it needs changing
This video should be shown to every new driver as a go-to on basic maintenance. Excellent video as always, keep up the good work.
Thanks Justin!
Some old driver should see this too, a lot of people don't know how to check their tires while they're driving for years
Most people don't read the owners manual to a car. Maybe they should make an app that gives you reminders with a 30 second turorial so to keep peoples attention.
Every parent should be teaching their kids these things. But the newer gen parents dont know how to change a tire or oil.
Most cars now dont even have keys. So soon ppl wont even know how to start a car with a key.
So many cars go down the shitter just because some people don’t know to check their car every once in a while
2:50 Prior to checking oil dipstick level, make sure the car is on a level surface! 🤪✅
And also that you check your oil level with the engine temp the same as last time you checked.
KJ also make sure the car is cold when you check oil level for the most accurate reading.
also make sure your car even has a dipstick like bmw
A hot motor will read low as the oil is circulated throughout, a cold car will have the oil collected in the pan for a proper reading. Oil is tricky as overfilling causes seal leaks and pressure buildup , not enough oil will cause seizing of the internals. It’s all about that sweet spot baby.
I suggest that you do what the manual suggests re hot or cold oil check. My Odyssey says hot oil level check. My Civic says nothing, so I presume cold.
There are two things I'd like to add to this excellent video:
- Brakepads: unless you can have a good look at both the inner and outer brakepads, take off the wheel at least once, preferably twice a year. The caliper slide pins don't wear very fast, but eventually they will start to move less smoothly and can start sticking, resulting in uneven brake pad wear. If for example you only look at the outside pad, it may seem completely fine, meanwhile the inside pad can be heavily worn or in more severe cases even have started wearing at an angle. The earlier you catch this, the cheaper the fix is probably going to be.
- Brake fluid and coolant: these are both closed circuits, you shouldn't have to add any fluid. If you do need to add coolant, this indicates a leak. If you do need to add brake fluid, this indicates a leak or worn brakes (the thinner the brake pads get, the more fluid remains in the caliper to compensate). In any case, adding fluid does not fix the cause of the low fluid level. You should only add fluid if it is to get you home or to a mechanic.
Doesn't coolant get used up over time like it doesn't all return to the reservoir
@@Gman07024No, because it's a closed circuit. If the coolant level drops, then that means coolant is leaving the system somewhere. This can be through a leaking headgasket, leaking hose, leaking radiator, etc. But a properly functioning vehicle should not lose any coolant.
The level you see at the coolant reservoir can vary, this is normal. Because when the coolant gets hot, it expands, so the level will seem higher. And once the vehicle is cool, the level will seem lower again.
There will be markers on the reservoir indicating the proper level(s). Some vehicles will have markers for both cold and hot, others will have a minimum and maximum level indicator for cold, etc. It's not always immediately obvious how to interpret the markers, in which case you can check your owners manual.
@MicraHakkinen oh okay so you'd only have to replace the coolant is it's no good anymore or after you've fixed your coolant loss problem.
Can brake fluid "go bad" ?
@@Gman07024 Yes it can. It's a closed circuit so if you're losing brake fluid, there's a leak somewhere. However many types of brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, DOT5.1) are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb moisture from the air. Most manufacturers recommend changing the brake fluid every two to three years for the hygroscopic kinds, and about 5 years for the silicone-based DOT5, again your owners manual will likely tell you exactly what's recommended for your vehicle. Also make sure to use the correct brake fluid as indicated by the manual. Using the wrong kind can lead to extensive damage to the entire braking system.
Over time the water content of hygroscopic brake fluid increases. This is bad for two reasons. First of all, brakes can get very hot (which is normal), but if there's too much water content in the brake fluid, then this water can evaporate and create vapor bubbles in the fluid. Fluid can't be compressed, so it transmits the force from your brake pedal to your brake calipers. However gas can be compressed, so if a vapor bubble forms, pressing on the brake pedal just compresses that bubble, instead of forcing the brake pads against the rotors. While it is unlikely for this to happen under normal driving conditions, it's better to prevent the possibility of it happening at all.
Secondly a high water content in the brake fluid can cause brake lines to corrode from within. This is not only much more expensive to repair compared to just changing the fluid on time, but springing a leak in a brake line can obviously be very dangerous as well.
I dont like ppl putting out false information like this. You have a coolant resovior for a reason.
Something I would add to the discussion about tire checks: look at the date codes on the tire sidewalls, and make sure yours aren't too old. Five years is generally considered to be the useful service life of a tire. I replaced a seven-year-old set of tires, which weren't very worn because I did not drive the car much, and was shocked at the improvement to the handling and braking performance of the car. Rubber hardens over time!
I experienced this twice. I had an MR2 that I only drove in the summer. At year 6 on a set of tires the ride went to heck. I was thinking of getting a wheel alignment done when I talked to my mother. Her first words were, how old are the tires. A new set of performance tires and I had a new ride, fabulous. My mothers knowledge is extremely broad, either she has an answer or she will say I don't know about that. Car number tow was a Buick Le Sabre, an old helicopter pilots car, low mileage, all service done by a garage by the airport where all the pilots get service. Tires looked mint, he had died a few years before and I bought it from his widow, no visible wear. I was taking the car on a run to the east coast from the Rockies, where it would stay. At the end of the first days driving I noticed the date on the tires, 7 year old. I had them replaced the next day. It felt like all four tires were out of balance. The Saskatchewan farmer who ran the garage said he would put them on some farm equipment.
How much you pay for a set of tires?
@@meltingspot1064 Really depends on what kind of tires you get. Personally I normally spend around $800. Do some research and order what you think is best yourself and have professionals install them. Only time I had tires straight from a shop, they where pretty shitty and where unbalanced and got them rebalanced 2 months later.
Tire quality really changes how a car feels, cheaping out has a big impact.
This man is a true professional, even after he said 'after you clean it off you stick it back in' he didnt even say thats what she said. An icon.
Great tips Jason! This should be shown in driver's ed classes!
Thanks Matt!
These are all part of drivers education in Norway (except maybe checking brake pads yourself), though sadly most people forget this info the second they "graduate".
@@tsjeriAu - It still stays with some, which makes the roads a bit safer, I'm sure. Basic maintenance should be required knowledge and made easy enough for most people by the manufacturers. (No dipstick deletes like are becoming more common, or air filter boxes requiring tools to open, etc.)
Agreed
In Germany it was part of my driver's education because my teacher was great, but is is officially obligated to have basic understandings of your car and the examinator may ask you during your test (to get your licence) to show how to check engine oil, or where I can see if brake fluid level is properly. Also, you need to go through a first-aid cursus and get prove that your eye-sight is healthy. Additionally, emergency braking is also part of education. (and in my case a winter drifting cause my teacher just is the best)
In The Netherlands eye-sight is checked by simply question of examinator to read number plate at certain distance, often times a joke of a test. Then, just hop into the car, drive along at speed limit, brake hard, don't overlook Dutch bicycle's and park you car correctly (corrections are allowed) which can even be a simple straight on parking, not even rear parking or side parking. Lol. Oh ... and better never drive here because 1. drivers are morons who think the road is only belonging to them 2. any possible ticket will cost you lots of money.
In Belgium drivers are not obligated to follow official driving education. They can choose to either get official education, or learn from someone who has his/her licence longer than 8 years. Learning can thus be by getting lessons from your parents. You can drive around as long as they sit next to you.
This man is really straight to-the-point always, he doesn't talk unwanted things. Covered lot many things within short time. I love his videos!
Pro tip for checking your tail lights: Back the car up to the garage door, or wall. Test the brake lights and see in the rear view mirror if the tail lights are reflecting off that wall. This is just a quick check method though.
Just put a stick (or your "club") between the seat and the brake pedal.
My method is to find an office building with reflective glass, park so I can see the rear of the car reflected back at me, then tap dem brakes. You'll know immediately if you've got a faulty brake light. 💪
😊@@svenmorgenstern9506
Also for the shocks/struts: push down on each corner of the car, let go, and observe: if it comes back up and stabilizes, you're good. If it bounces about 2 times and stabilizes, they're going bad. If it keeps flopping around like the car's on a waterbed, those shocks/struts are a danger to your life and anyone else driving next to you.
My Prius has over 300,000 miles and runs like new. It's never had any repairs. I just follow the maintenance schedule religiously by using a program on my laptop called Automotive Wolf that tracks the maintenance schedule, expenses, fuel usage etc. It calculates a cost to own and operate the vehicle taking into consideration all those factors and my Prius is at $0.05 per mile. My Jeep costs $1.63 per mile. So not only is my Toyota extremely reliable it's also very cost efficient.
COOOL Software! Thanks:)
No battery issues? Impressive (excuse the bias lol.)
I hear the new ford mavericks have the same ngine as this prius...if thats so um lo9k8n forward to that mil3age!
@@HookupCultureCommunityYep, the battery replacement cost (not that big, especially vs. BEV/PHEV, but still important in the overall TCO) should be incorporated in calculating that cost per mile etc.
Not a fan of Subarus, but their oil filter placement is the single greatest automotive innovation of all time.
It is certainly neat, but I wonder, what happens when you unscrew it? Does the gravity empty the oil in it every times you turn off the engine or do you have to unscrew it quickly before it leaks sludge everywhere on the engine?
@@Delta_GlowV Gravity. As long as you drain the oil before taking the filter off nothing will leak.
my BMW does this too and it's pretty great. it's in a housing so the filter is a cartridge; makes high quality oil filters extremely cheap. I'm talking 3 to 5 dollars for a Bosch. also, no mess with removing it, because as stated, gravity drains all the oil from the cartridge when you drain the oil too. its great
what's not great is the 32mm socket to take it off. older bmws used a 13mm which was much smarter
Yeah my E36 BMW has a oil filter housing with the filter inside, it really is easy to change, as you dont get oil dripping down, after unscreqing the 13mm bolt the oil from the housing drains down. It's pretty neat
Before driving at night or before going on a long car trip, check to see that ALL your exterior lights are operating correctly. There's no need to give the police an easy excuse to stop you. Especially when traveling out of state.
And that includes license plate light, which is often overlooked! I got profiled in my '94 F-150, and that was all they had on me. Glad I only got a warning, and just spliced the wires back together.
Good point also remember that ANY external light is subject to being graded section of a state safety inspection........
That means if the safety inspector wants to be a jerk they COULD fail you for let’s say Fog Lights. Not legally required but if it’s there it is subject to inspection..
"... out of state [with a body in the trunk]."
@@prycenewberg3976 out of state with duffel bags full of cocaine
I took an auto tech class in freshman year and they teach the same. Its a shame that now they got rid of shop classes last year or I would have taken it again. They rather have everyone go to college than learn about cars.
wassup phillthe thrill I didnt know u r watching his videos LOL
No, they would rather have everyone learn how to lease a car, not self awesome preventive maintenance.
Man I took that same class but I was a sh*thead in school so now I’m here paying for it. Stay in school kids
I have a 2015 Ford Expedition and I kept up with my tire rotations, engine oil, coolant, Rear end gear fluid, transmission fluid changes and haven’t had any engine problems at all. Great video👍
Great video!
Quick note to anybody changing windshield wiper blades:
If you keep the OEM blade assembly, you can often purchase replacement rubber inserts
(saves money and less waste!)
Can't believe you missed the most important fluid, blinker fluid. Just by driving around on the roads today, you see that low blinker problem is a highly common yet dangerous mistake. Maybe can you do a video of why Lexus, BMW, and Mercedes leak this fluid faster than any other car?
Ceazar Carr not all cars have one
Hah, it’s only if you use them!
the day I see a bmw using its blinkers is the day I win the lottery
dannycool59x Im a bmw driver and always use my blinkers. I think some bmw drivers just forget to top up their blinder fluid!
Drain it and u're good to go
It's sometimes the basic stuff that we always tend to forget to check. I have been following all of your videos and it's such a joy to see you sharing such immense knowledge you have with everyone. Much love to you brother, all the way from India ❤️
Happy to hear it, thanks for watching!
That last tip on check brakes lights is a good one. Better than using an umbrella to hold the pedal down. I used to park backwards in front of a store and use the glass reflection to check all those lights with my rear view mirror.
That's smart! I will do that!
It would be great if cars had a switch somewhere in the cabin (like under the steering wheel or something) that you could flick on to engage all or selected lights. A bit like what they have in Aeroplane cockpits. It would save having to ask someone to step on the brakes for you
@@garymathe9863
I usually use my cinder block on the accelerator when Im on the highway. Saves having to hold the pedal down with your foot when you dont have cruise control
I do the testing at night
Also when at a stop light, you can sometimes see your brake lights reflected in the front of the car that's behind you. But I would suggest getting out and looking at your license plate lights, if you have two lights on your license plate, and one of the lights not working, it can be difficult to see that in just a reflection.
I don’t understand the thumbs down stuff. This guy is a mechanical engineer. He is giving us some of his knowledge for free. He studied this stuff worked hard to get the knowledge and I’m sure having my own kids in college cost him big time financially. Take his advice he knows what he is talking about. So if he leaves out windshield washer use your common sense. 👍
The way your content just flows through the videos makes me feel like they last less then they actually do. Thanks again for all the info, and for encouraging us to do it ourselves and properly. Cheers from Brazil!
Hey Jason, can you also show the Audi drivers how to properly set the adaptive trace control systems on their cars? They usually set them to follow your car way too close on the highway.
😂
😂
Mr1983abraham my uncle’s 2016 m238i doesn’t even have blindspot indicators so idk how much you have to pay for trace control
Usually, they are tailgating someone who isn't pulling over when not overtaking, I don't condone tailgating but....f***...the amount of oblivious, arrogant drivers there are out there whom hog the outside and middle lanes, refusing to move back into a lane with space beside them is ridiculous to the point I actually understand their frustrations (even though I don't endorse). If everyone adhered to proper overtaking procedures our highways would not be nearly as clogged up as they are. Audi's drivers are just more sensitive to this problem than other drivers are. :-D
Evan Nadeau do you find yourself driving In the left lane when this Happens?
Never took your vids very serious but now that you’re wearing those glasses 👓 you’ve got so much more authority!
Haha, well off they go then, can’t have people thinking this is a serious channel. ;)
😂
He looks like a Professor in Mechanical Engineering!
Respect his authoritah!
Thank you SO much for this video!
Even though I've been driving for about 6 years, I feel I was never taught how to properly care for my car
(other than just take it in for oil changes and tire rotations).
I'm now buying a new car, and really wanted to do my research on how to get the best, longest life from it.
I really wish drivers were offered more information on general care both when they start driving, and buy a new car.
I wish i had a teacher like this..he talks were u can understand everything he says, such a pleasant guy
another tips, if your car have Fiat badge on it, take it off immediately. hopefully it will make it last longer by 1 day.
FIAT.. Fix It Again Tomorrow
Actually in Italy FIATs are pretty reliable. Maybe this myth is only true in the US? I'd like to see some data about this
@@mjames2117 "you know what ford stands for fix it again tony" -Dale Gribble
Fiat has absolute gem of engines....!Italy?❤️
@@CopperheadGarage
FIX OR REPLACE DAILY
You should also check the VTEC solenoid to see if you get those mad gains.
10hp+ if u have k&n sticker there
lasagna bloke this is so funny 😂 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 this joke is the new internet sensation 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂very funny m’lady😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Cause I bet you own a car with true vtec I'm sure..
It's a honda thing. A how to maintain a boosted engine should be his next video!
Can you post a video for the location of this part ?
This is a great video with informative information for everyone. Another thing that's extremely important is the quality of the fluid that you use in your vehicle. The amazing part is by using a better fluid everything cost significantly less money in the long run😊
Something to note about Tire Pressure. I hurts when i see this, and when i didnt know anything even i used to do it. DO NOT use the "MAX PSI" rating on your tires as a marker for how much you should fill it. I see it alot where people who are airing up their tires, will look at the PSI rating on the tiers and fill it up to that.
This video is correct. Use the door sticker or manual, NOT the tire itself.
32 psi is fine. Make sure its cold
I didn't even think to check the tires. I always just went off of the sticker in the door.
Yes, but in the case of non-standard tires/wheels, you generally want about 10 psi below the max rating if the tires are not similar to the standard tires. (i.e.: off road tires, under/oversized rims)
But it is perfectly fine to use the max psi if you are storing a car for the winter.
Cool story bro.
Simple, Short, and Straight to the point. Definitely my go-to for basic car check-up video.
Many more people need to watch this. I've known some of these but I never thought about checking the filters
Let the car rest for a night before you check this stuff.
I once tried to refill the coolant after coming home from work... It was worse than a shaked coke bottle :D
Ha, yes, definitely don't open the radiator when it's warm!
Dude 😂most cars have a label right next to the radiator cap, warning you not to open when the Engine is hot & leave the car to cool down before opening
@Yaserinski Shahidovich: After 15 Years those stickers tend to either become black from the dirt or just disappear ;)
I was lucky that I reacted quick and closed it up once the hissing noise started
But actually it was a good thing, now i will never forget to let the car cool before opening anything.
@@Ultrazaubererger You learnt it the scary way.
And also the engine oil has to settle. Some people say 15 mins is enough for that but it's not, I wait at least 3 hours.
Bottom oil leaks, diff oil, trans oil, belts, pulleys, axel shaft boot leaks, ball joint , bushings, wheel bearing, spare tyre,e brake adjustment ,lubricate door hinges , battery terminals, .....etc.
Can you make a video about driving habits to make your car last a long time. Such as proper shifting vs bad shifting that can lead to wear or appropriate loading of the vehicle and engine as well as being consious of temperature. How downshifting can affect your transmission if done poorly or whether to do it all. Your regular speed on highways and how that affect your car over time. Parking on inclines vs flat parkings. Hard braking or harsh cornering. Overfilling your fuel tank by rocking the car side to side. Putting too much water in your coolant. Using in appropriate oil. I'm no expert but these are some of the things I wonder about. I want to make my car last long but at the same time I'm an Uber so I have to use it extensively every day and can't always baby it. A proper understanding of all of the factors to allow us to use the fill potential of the vehicle within a margin of safety and care
Low-fi tip for checking your rear lights - do it with the back of the car to a wall in low light- like your garage, or a parking garage or at night. You'll be able to see the lights reflected and tell which side they come from. Easy quick check whenever it occurs to you and you're reversed into a spot
I double to that (plus you can check your reverse lights as a bonus).
I check them using the big plaza windows at night haha
Ah, there's an air filter for the CABIN. I'll just go ahead and change the stock one in my 1998 Honda Civic. BRB...
Spray it with a little cologne, turn the ac on, and watch the panties drop.. lol
Smith John good tip lol
I sprayed my girlfriends with new car scent when I wrote the upper comment. It still has the smell. Lol
Spent all day looking for one in my 97 Honda Accord.
They introduced the cabin air filter in the 98
I have no idea how to take it out. I've pulled on the tabs for the globe compartment and still can't do it.
Also check the sidewall of the tyre for bulges, cuts and exposed chords
Exposed chords....like this tire B-flat?
Don't forget to change out your muffler bearing 👍
And don't forget to rotate or change your piston return springs so you don't get metal flake in your oil
Replace tail gasket every 50k miles
At least twice a year you should also top up your blinker fluid.
Also Dont forget to add gas to your car!!!! otherwise you might get stuck in the middle of nowhere
Replace the air in your tires with every oil change.
This guy looks old and young at the same time.
He was born like that
He is male Aes Sedai.
Lmao p
Krystal actually he was like 57 or something
@@krystal5887 Bruh
I live up north so I keep my tire psi at 35. You lose some psi in the winter so it's good to keep it as least 2 to 4 psi higher than recommend. I find some lights redundant such as parking lights and license plate lights. Purely for aesthetic. Every car should come with fog lights. It's useful when your low beam is out.
I love how clear and straightforward your tips always are.
No matter what make of car you have, the key to keep it running well is preventative maintenance. By doing inspections you can catch something before it turns into a major and expensive repair
Just the right season for this video. Us in northern territories dash to fix the small annoyances before winter sets in. Having to crawl under your car in 5°F with total numb fingers is not fun.
Could you do a video about how diesel emissions equipment work? Like diesel particulate filters, urea injection, and exhaust gas recirculation coolers. I feel like this equipment has changed the game for diesel and made them less reliable therefore not as economical of a purchase as they were in the past where you could get 500k miles out of the motor with only wear and tear up keep. I know heavy duty diesel is not your norm but I feel that the explanation is in your wheelhouse. Thank you. Engineering Explained.
I think this is something everyone with a car should do as they're pretty simple inspections and you only do it maybe a few times a month. Sadly, most people dont do any of these things which is why their car breaks down on certain parts because they were driving with no fluid the whole time.
Excellent video!
I am a mechanic and the one pollen/cabin filter I refuse to check are the older Mazdas as they are a pain in the backside to remove and replace. Unless it is dire I replace them but I charge out 30 minutes for is as the glove boxes need to be removed and the kick panel as well to get more access and even then it is in an awkward position to remove the screws for the cabin filter cover - all in all, a pain in the ass
Excellent video Sir! It seems like just yesterday I discovered this channel. Now about 2.5 million subscribers later it's still going strong! I really appreciate all the great knowledge you've shared with us. Keep up the good work!
In 10 years, this will be a 60 sec video on how to navigate to your "Vehicle Status" menu on your infotainment screen.
My car has a digital dipstick for the engine oil. Useless piece of junk that's slow to read, inaccurate and a real 'dip stick'.
@@billandyeng same on mine. After changing the oil i have to drive 10 min before it can read my oil levels. Pretty stupid.
billandyeng Yeah, it could even be like the temp gauge on my car (I'm not even sure if its tied into anything). It always shows "middle" after its warmed up. Whether that's gentle cruising or bashing gears 9k rpm and hearing the exhaust get so hot it makes strange noises (gurgles) and then you know its hot because you can't make it shoot flames out the tailpipes unless its been warmed up aggressively and the exhaust ignites the excess fuel.
But it always shows "middle" like 3 minutes of sitting there... Never goes past it... What a useful gauge! I've heard they don't even move even when serious engine damage occurs and water is boiling out at 240-260 *F... I'll be putting in a real one so I know when its overheating (they are notorious for that, so its a real shame they don't have a real gauge to begin with).
A lot of manufacturers did that with their temp gauges because customers brought their cars in thinking something was wrong if it went up and down. So now most gauges just stay in the middle between 160F and 230F.
Or it could be like this subaru I believe and some others, where it doesn't have a temp gauge anymore. That's how my BMW is. It just has a light to tell you when it's overheating.
@@kern417 Same in my car, but it can be found from drive computer's debug menu. Not very user friendly solution, but I had to use it as coolant pressurisation is not very reliable so sometimes coolant boiled before fan turned on.
Bounce off the limiter at least once per drive cycle (upon reaching operational temperature). Keeps your internals clean and happy. That's my advice
Haha, I’m actually working on a video about this!
@@EngineeringExplained the Italian tune-up? I've only heard about this recently, keen to know the science behind it!
Man from Nantucket and many smiles come along with that 😂
Exactly, my grandma never goes above 2k rpm. It has super low miles and sits a lot, runs like crap.
Can u do it neutral tho?
Other an checking the brake pad thickness and suspension this is all pretty simple easy to do stuff. Another check you may want to do is to check the rubber "boot" on your CV joint. Look for cracks or tars in the rubber. That being said, I'm a DIYer and as a retired guy I took a part time job at a local gas station to keep busy. In spite of how relatively simple to do these inspections are I am surprised how many people don't know how to do any of these things. Some things I've heard are, " oh? there's still oil in it, I don't need an oil change". The oil I just checked for them is the blackest black I've ever seen and in one case they had the vehicle for 3 years and had never changed the oil. Or, " do you think it's okay for me to go on the highway to XXXXXX right now?" , after a heavy snowfall. I said, " as long as your tires are in good condition" to which she says " oh they are new I just got them from my Uncle's car". The tires were all seasons all worn to a point where you couldn't hook a finger nail if you dragged it across the tire. Another big on is when someone drives for 10-15 minutes to get to the gas station and adjusts the tire pressure to the pressure on the door jamb label. I have told so many people that as a tire is driven on the air inside it heats up and the tire pressure increases between 2-3 psi. So they have lowered their tire pressures back to 35 psi but are now running their tires at 2-3 psi low which has a negative effect on tire performance, gas mileage and tire wear.
If you live in an area with snow or frequent rain, I would replace the tires at around 4 mm. The thread wear indicator I believe is at 1.6mm.
Literally everything he mentioned here is very easy to understand and to do and will save you A LOT of money spent at a workshop if you do it yourself even if you've never done it before. I learnt this the hard way :(
Me too I just started working on my car, even to change a battery they tried to rip me off
There are very few amazing channels on UA-cam like this one
Very kind, thank you!! 🙏
Teach BMW drivers how to use their blinkers in your next video
Lmao true.
And teach pt cruisers and corolla drivers what blinkers mean. Or maybe tell them to stop looking at their phone while driving so they can notice my blinkers lmao
- a BMW driver
@@emilepapillon2275 I drive blindfolded without my lights at night time ;)
Where’s the dipstick on a BMW? Usually behind the steering wheel😀
These days it's way more important to teach Audi drivers to use them properly, or more important; to use them @ at all!
These are great easy tips for anyone to check. I will say though the oil should be a little warm to get a more accurate reading. Turn your car on for a couple mins then off. There is some pressure that needs to build up and after a little time it will regulate. Take your dipstick reading there.
Great video. Perhaps a point...always a good idea to check your owner manual to see when is the best time to check your engine oil level (i.e. when the car is cold, or warm, or a little bit after running). Weird, I know, but many different makes recommend different times to check.
How high should my oil level be if I upgraded to a short throw dipstick?
Solid mod! 😂
Oil has to be filled until it overflows from the valve cover. This allows you to do an oil pump delete for friction reduction.
You might be the short throw dipstick.
Named after you
Speaking of tires, could please discuss the date codes on a tire and why it's important to pay attention to it?
I really like your videos.
Great job.
Thanks.
THANKS FOR THE USEFUL VID MAN!!
YOUR VID IS AMONG THE BETTER ONES ON TUBE!
Love this Channel. i was a former mechanic (Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge) and im looking to go back to this job. God i missing to have dirty hands, hearing the engine noise, the smell aof new tires.....
Love your channel, so many things to learn. Thank you for that!
Just to note that brake fluid does not require topping up. The fluid will go down as the brakes wear and the pistons sit further in the calipers. The only other reason the fluid would drop is you have a leak needs servicing.
I know people never think to check the pads and rotors when the fluid is low.
Tip for checking your lights. When you are parked in front of a building with large windows, you can usually see your car from the reflection.
Or behind/in front of a shiny clean car
Soon to be a new driver, I wanted to make sure I knew how to take care of a car as I'm planning on getting one in the next month. Thanks for the informative video! I honestly expected that more would be needed to keep a car is good shape, but it seems that you just need to check these things often enough and make sure they get the attention they need.
I love how you simplify things, it makes learning easy.
Protip: Don't top off brake fluid during normal checks. The level between min and max is a rough indicator for the pad wear level.
Good tip, I just had to fill mine up from min to max and I was about to change my pads so will I now be “overfilled” if I replace the pads without taking some fluid out?
@@cartere9981 if you are changing the pads yourself, you can use a turkey baster to take some fluid out before performing the work. Worst that will happen if you don't, the brake fluid will overflow and run onto some paint. Brake fluid strips paint with ease and will cause rust.
How To Make Your Car Last A Long Time - Checks payable to Engineering Explained will do just fine..
I use Progressive Insurance.
I'm still not sure. Should the dipstick read L or F? This is so complicated.
AHDBification depends on how you drive your car. fill to L if you drive on the left side of the road and to F if you drive in the front of the car.
no insurance suspended license. but I got 200,000 in the bank from savings on no insurance and not paying tickets😉
@@AHDBification F
They should have this as a mandatory class in high school. Before you even get a Pink Slip to drive make this part of the Drivers Education Test to pass. Same with changing a flat tire. If you can't pass NO PINK SLIP.
A quick tip about checking your rear brake lights on your car, put a pole or umbrella between the seat and brake pedal and DO NOT START THE CAR, turn the key to number 2 on the ignition barrel. Then you will be able to check them yourself any where without the need of a friend or a glass door. Plus you can check your reversing lights by not starting your car turn your key on the ignition barrel to number 2 then put your gear stick in reverse then you can check your reverse lights are working.
Jason, your videos are so helpful and entertaining -- would you consider jumping on some mountain bikes to huck, flow, and send some trail, then suss out the physics of it all? There's design and engineering of the bicycles and components in a spectrum of trail conditions that is totally glossed over by the cycling crowd. Your approach would be a revelation for knowledge hungry dirt surfers.
An easy way to test brake lights is to place some long-ish object (I use a snow brush) between the seat and brake pedal and move the seat forward to jam it in.
Ty4ons lol I use a snow brush too 😂
I just turn on the four way flashers. They use the same bulbs.
i dont even own a car... yet im watching this
Check your tires. Ok... One...two...three....four... Yep, all there! Looks like everything is fine!
Just got my first car, i watched this because i want to do a monthly checkup, thank you for the professional video
Fantastic vid on the basics. Very clear on indications which will help you catch things early. I think I’ll get my 14 year old to watch this before I do my next service and see if he can catch anything.
check the state of transmission fluid too.
yup one of the first expensive part of the automatic car that will fail even before the engine quits..
Can you guys give a little more info about this subject?... I've always thought it would be a good idea to maintain the trans fluid but to be honest I've never really messed with it because of all the different opposing opinions all over the internet as to why you shouldn't mess with it kind of made me freeze up when it comes to the trans because of the fear of effing shit up...I'd hate to do a trans flush and fluid change on a good working trans only to run into issues shortly after
What are your guys opinions on that? Cuz I do believe it is important and want change the fluid in mine
HomeGrownPyro my 07 acura tl base nav has 140k miles on it and i dont think the transmission fluid has ever been changed. I brought it to my mechanic and he took a looked at it and it was kind of like light ish brown color(it didnt look like it was disgusting) he told me it was still in good condition. The thing is that my car in 3rd gear and around 1300 - 2000 rpms sometimes starts shaking like the engine is stalling out but it stops once i get the rpms higher or change gears. Also another thing i notice is on high rpms (above 6k) when it changes gears it kicks. Ive driven my dad suv hard and in high rpms the transmission doesnt kick its just a natural hard shift like it’s supposed to do. I bought the car with 136k miles on it and im thinking of doing a tranny oil change at the dealership since i want the car to last as long as possible.
Im not doing any engine mods on my car since it would be just a waste of money. I will just try to just keep maintenance up on it. Ive never cheaped out on maintenance on it since i had it. I did an oil change on it, new engine air filter, and alignment as soon as i bought it. Recently i bought new brake pads and put those on cause it was an emergency. But im looking to replace all the rotors and calipers and pads(except the front pads) on it. Soon will be some lighter and better looking rims cause the previous owner had some gloss chrome heavy ass mexican wheels on it.
transmission fluid is the oil that keeps the gearbox LEGO set pieces of rubbing metal parts in the Gearbox running like a Swiss watch mechanism...it is the ''*engine oil*'' for a gearbox on an Automatic car..VITAL to change according to manual API/SAE viscosity and intervals! Dont use Flush fluids, just change them with fresh auto fluid in accordance to manual recommendations or risk 5000 dollar replacement fine!
Not all new cars are made that way.
Don't ever forget to check your blinker fluid.
And only use the very best blinker fluid, for bright blinkers that flash smoothly.
A man of culture
also if you want your car to last, drive sensibly.
I guess that means my cars won't be reliable.
Sensible whatever that means. “Same as saying don’t work out you could hurt yourself.”
E85 13B no. Thats a bad analogy. The correct one would be if not running the car in a long time
You dont workout= bad
You dont run the car= bad
Working out pretty often =good
Running the car pretty often= bad
Working out too hard with no breaks= bad
Driving super agressive in higher rpms = bad
Theres a balance to everything
If you drive agressive all the time i feel bad for your car. Once a while wont do damage
YUCK I can imagine the carbon buildup in the engine.... REV IT UP
E85 13B your car doesn’t recover and get stronger after you do a hard pull lol
Bonus tip: If you have a CVT transmission it is good you change the CVT fluid every 35k miles to keep it fresh.
Recommended CVT fluids for the Lineartronic TR580:
Genuine Subaru CVTF II
Valvoline full synthetic CVT
Amsoil full synthetic CVT
Eneos CVT
All of those 3 are compatible with the Subaru CVTF. I cannot speak foe the TR699 though. This os only for TR580s.
I put Valvoline fluid in my 2.5i Forester 2 weeks ago and the CVT feels great. 6 quarts out and 6 quarts in. First the car will accept only 4 quarts. Close the filler hole, start the engine, cycle the transmission through gears, shut the car off and pour in the rest 2 quarts in.
Thank you!
That is correct 100 %! From experience, I change brake pads when they have around 3 mm thickness of active part. Happened to loose active part, due to hard braking in traffic environment. Were less than 2 mm ;)...
Still, you are the first to hear from, this useful tip ... Keep up! A very good day to you!
Very nice indepth guide! A must see for a beginner. Great job greg! getting more people back into DIY is important stuff
Shlomi Vinny i started working on my car with no previous knowledge. First work i did was change the brake pads by myself and it was pretty easy except it was really dirty lol. Next im looking to install some new rotors. Some stuff i wont do by myself is engine stuff since i dont want to mess anything up, ill let a mechanic or the dealer deal with that
Great start!
Although brake and suspension stuff should ALWAYS be checked out by a 3rd party (friend with knowledge\experience, mechanic, etc.), just like a 2nd opinion from a doctor, sometimes you miss something.
Stay safe and always torque your nuts! :D
ChrisFix says to check your Blinker Fluid
In the aviation maintenance community we NEVER use digital gauges. Also highly recommend against the ones with the little stick that comes out of the back.
Best gauges I’ve ever used were the ones with a dial, that has a check valve built in.
I think it's important to check for the serpentine belt as well and the timing belt (if it has one, some cars have a timing chain instead). They also wear out with time if you keep your car long enough. You do need some tools to replace them, but still cheaper than taking it to the mechanic and cheaper than your car breaking down because the belt broke.
Your explanation is so clear and easy to understand.
5:55 and finally you wanna make sure to check your blinker fluid level
😅
"Hello everyone AND welcome"
It's amazing how many people don't even know how to check their engine oil level or tire pressure. Seems like common sense but you'd be surprised.
Don't get me started on changing tires either.
Or how many people inflate their tires to the pressure written on the tire. You know, the _max_ pressure? Ugh. Check the sticker in the door, don't fill it to the max pressure. 🤦♂️
I've used my phone to check my tie rod ends, control arm and trackbar bushings(solid axle vehicles) too. You could probably check U-joints too by switching between drive and reverse, but those are usually a bit more obvious.
It's good to see that subaru started puting their oil filters on the top of the engine. Changing the oil filter in my old forester is a messy messy job.
My Mazda 3 gets serviced every 6 months so I do my routine checks every 3 months. My dad takes care of his 10 year old Toyota the same way and it's running fine.
Toyota and Mazda are reliable cars though
My Toyota Matrix is 12 years old and runs like new and still gets around 30mpg. Proper maintenance is key.
Only thing I’d add is to shake each tire if you get it off the ground. It shouldn’t have much play. If it does that indicates some problems with your suspension parts(control arm, tie rod ends, etc)
An apple a day keeps wait that’s not useful
A Prius a day keeps the smiles away.
An oil a day keeps the the tow truck away.
A redline a day keeps the mechanic away.
Thank you for posting this video; this is very useful for someone (such as myself) who would like to know more about basic maintenance of a car, but isn't very knowledgeable about the topic!
I think one other thing that's super important is to check for rust! Wheels arches, exhaust, suspension components etc. You need to deal with it before it gets bad.
4:54 unless you own a bmw, whereby you have to undo 20 bolts
pro tip: don't buy a BMW, unless you have money to blow