Awesome video I want to point out though when you install your new neutral safety switch you can't just bolt it on to the transmission you have to adjust it by tilting forward or backward until you find the right position took hours to figure that out you don't show that in the video at the end best way to get close is to look at the old neutral safety switch hope it helps everybody
Finally, someone explains exactly why they need to be heated up. I've seen and heard all of this mention of heating the 'glue' in the connectors and I'm losing what's left of my mind trying to figure out why they would glue such a thing, lol. Thank you for helping me.
Procedure worked fine on my 2000 Silverado K1500 truck. I didn't disconnect the drive shaft at the booted end because there was plenty of room to work around it but I have a Jeg's downpipe instead of stock exhaust so that might make a difference. Mechanic who installed my rebuilt transmission (I subbed that out because I have a bad back) obviously had trouble with the connectors which were not fully inserted, but my switch went bad due to age which wasn't his fault. Next time I'll do it myself as I'm used to doing.... Not every so-called "experienced" mechanic gets it right which is a great reason to do it yourself. The way I lube such connectors is with silicone dielectric tuneup grease available at most auto stores. It's designed to exclude water and protects your contacts from moisture. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is an example but there are many brands. It's useful stuff.
+Ob Fuscated Thank you for checking us out, as well as all of your feedback. This information will certainly assist others perform the replacement. 1aauto.com
For anyone not noticing, this is for a 4wd/awd vehicle. Same jist as a 2wd truck, just not hing to do with the front drive shaft. Another thing is my shift arm that came off the threaded shaft faced in, instead of out like in the video. Pay attention when disassembling. Another thing is the plugs are glued from the factory. My factory switch was melting, so i dont know if it helped with the glue but i had to work it off with a wide blade flat head.
The symptoms that brought me here are when I hit a bump in the road, engine power is cut and the door locks cycle. From searches, I guessed it was because the truck thinks i just slammed it in park from a flaky NS switch. Several bumps in a row or a rough patch put it in limp mode. The issue got progressively worse until I was able to catch it in the act as it set codes including B2550, C codes for traction control and data link codes. Unfortunately, this was not the cause. The cause was the ground wire that attaches to the block near the oil pressure sender. Remove engine covers and find the thick harness that crosses the passenger side valve cover. Bear the rear of the engine, a black w/ yellow strip wire exits the bundle. There are two failures with this ground: either oil seeps from the pressure sender lubing the nut so it can back off, or the ring terminal corrodes and snaps. This is a major computer ground. Relocate it to a convenient firewall bolt/stud. Also check the A pillar driver side ground and the one by the frame rail under the driver.
Y'all be sure to have a heat gun or a hair dryer because those 2 connections have glue/adhesive. Break the Switch if you have to and save the connections.
Whenever I have an issue I check out your videos. Thanks for doing such a good job explaining each step and showing them. Question: My son's 2004 Chev. Silverado (4l80e) drove it home no problems. Next day it started fine but will not shift into any gears. Truck will not move. Is it possible that it is the Neutral Safety Switch? He heard no grinding and no metal was in transmission fluid. I don't believe it is mechanical. I'm stumped. Any idea?
+Larry C Thanks for watching our videos. It could be the neutral safety switch, but can't guarantee that. Your best bet would be to have it professionally diagnosed.
Would this fix my issue on my 2005 Suburban for the dial not showing as being in park? The shifter is in the park position, but the dash shows it as still being in reverse.
This also fix your reverse lights problem and fix when you slide the lever show on N but is already on D if this is helpful let me know please and you a great day
+Cornelio Manzano We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I reinstalled this after changing my rear main on my truck. Slow to register on the prnd, but never shows neutral..... which comes to be an issue when 4low is needed. I’m thinking this my help.... at least the front drive shaft will be easy.... heck, my white out hash marks are probably still even there .... :/
@J Santa, kinda late to reply so maybe you already figured it out but this is what I would have done. Plug the new switch into the wire harness before installing it. Put the transmission into reverse and leave the key in the on position. Now check to see if the reverse lights are on. If not then turn the position of the safety switch until the lights come on then while holding the switch at the angle it will mount, slide it over the actuator and mount it while keeping an eye on the reverse lights.
Just a real quick question here. I have a 2003 Chevy Avalanche Z71, it will start fine all the time except when the engine is hot. When the engine is hot if I turn the key to start it it will not crank. You will act the same way that it would if the truck were in gear. Wait 20 minutes, and the truck will start right back up. I noticed in the video how close the neutral safety switch is do the catalytic converter. Is it possible my neutral safety switch is it going bed and only won't work under extreme temperatures? Remember all winter long this truck will start just fine. But in the 90-degree dog days of summer, once I run it I have to wait till it cools down to start it again.
+Joe W We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I didn't look to see how old this post is but I have something you may want to hear . If you look on the dash before you turn your key all the way on, look to see if you're security light is flashing, if it is the switch is bad and it's above the ashtray and it's a b**** to get out . I have to wait 10 minutes just to turn it back on, it doesn't happen all the time though. This is my second 99 Suburban that this has happened to ..
+Jaybigjefe visiionz We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video but you guys forgot one thing what if I don’t have a 4 x 4 and I only have a 2 Wheel Dr. do you have a video regarding the 2 Wheel Dr. on how to replace that neutral safety switch on a Chevrolet?✝️✝️✝️🙏🏻🇺🇸
+Love Of Christ We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I did mine on a 97 Chevy k1500. But now the truck has all the gears expect for park. I can manually put in park and the shifter will go to park position but the trans will not when u try to use the shifter
Thank you, this is a great video. I have a 98 VW Jetta that last week started giving me intermittent problems getting power to the solenoid when turning the key to the start position (it would take multiple tries). It is now a permanent problem. I verified no power is getting from the ignition switch to the solenoid. I verified the backup lights still work when I place the selector to reverse. Is it still possible the starting problem is caused by the neutral safety switch or could it be a loose wire somewhere? I cleaned all of the positive and ground connectors first to eliminate that as a possibility. I also do hear the starter relay being energized so I'm thinking the problem is with the neutral safety switch (and making me think it is placed between the starter relay and the solenoid). Unfortunately another problem is that the stud turns along with the nut when I try to loosen or tighten the nut on the hot cable from the battery to the solenoid.
Thanks for such a detailed video.. question, since the Tahoe / suburban 2007 and 2008 still have the 4L60E transmission, can I purchase same switch (part number) and the location and procedure would still be the same ? -Thanks
So I just had my trans rebuilt, 4L65e, truck started perfect before I pulled the trans. Took it to a shop to have it rebuilt, put it back in and no start no crank. On the gauge cluster it doesn't show that's it's in park/drive/reverse.... it's not lit up at all. I'm thinking that it doesn't know it's in park. I'm thinking the neutral safety switch is bad, does this sound right? How do I test the switch?
Not sure how to test the switch. Just replaced my transmission in my GMC myself. Had the same issue, had to move the column shifter around to get the light to show which gear and also have reverse lights and lock the doors when moving. The switch was a bitch to get back on. I think I need a new one. Gonna try this.
Does anyone know if this part would cause the truck to read being in 2nd gear? This is what I think is keeping my truck from starting. I have an 03 Silvy 2500 with 2wd, Auto trans
+Sam Armas Thanks for checking us out! it is important to mark it to ensure the shaft goes in the same way it came out. If it is not installed in the same position it could cause an issue. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Would this part cause the transmission to not function properly in drive and 3rd gear? How can you test the switch at the PCM to make sure that the C Solenoid is grounded?
+salley1518 Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Neutral Safety Switch Engine will not crank in park but cranks in neutral. Engine will not crank in neutral but cranks in park. Engine does not crank at all, regardless of the transmission gear. Engine cranks in any gear.
My transmission in my 1999 chevy Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive 5.3 engine speed odometer inoperable truck will not shift into 3rd or drive I have replaced the two sensor on the rear of transfer case speed sensors. part store hooked up and di diagnostic's they said it is torque converter clutch solenoid. I sure would like your advice.
+ricky brewer If it is throwing a code, and this is what the code is pointing to, you may want to replace the defective part. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com
Guys I have an a problem with the selector position in the transmission under the hood, it is stuck or lock right know, I'm already replaced the whole transmission for that one with less miles and running (is what the seller told me) but I don't know if is an a solenoid or an a problem. Thanks guys.
1A Auto Parts thanks for the answer guys, ok guys but one solenoid can block the transmission right under the hood? I mean the selector shaft in the tcm. Can be a solenoid? I can pull the car and move like is in neutral. Thanks for your help guys.
The Transmission Shop " So Called " Rebuilt it $3.410 . I've had trouble since day one bringing it home 3 months later it's not going into overdrive, although I only drove it maybe one week out of the 3 months because I've had trouble ever since but this is the latest that he told me, that it is the neutral safety switch, he's telling me that the little indicator on top that tells you what gear it is on is causing the switch to fail " WHAT A JOKE ". I did take it to another transmission shop just so they could drive it and they said they would tear the whole transmission apart all over again but I ain't got that kind of money so I'm stuck . Dec. 19 2022
I just put up a 4l60e on my blazer truck and it will not start. the mechanic ripped apart the safety switch while trying to place it on the box. Then forced the plug out which ended up ripping every piece of the switch apart. He placed another used safety switch where piece of the harness was ripped. The truck cranks but not starts on P, neither on N. Is the safety switch the culprit.
+JESUS BOGARD If your neutral safety switch is having serious electrical problems, then your engine will not crank in park or neutral. The starter relay relies on the switch for receiving power. If it can't receive this power, then the starter motor will not be able to crank the engine.
What about the epoxy that holds the connectors into the sensor from the factory??? There's no mention of this ...... Yet they portray the image of someone who knows what they are doing
I'm glad my 2003 Chevy Coachman (3500 Express Van) safety switch can be accessed with no driveline or anything in the way. My next maintenance project.
+Brandon Wilkinson The neutral safety switch is a safety device that only allows you to start your engine when the automatic transmission is in either Park or Neutral. We recommend taking your vehicle to have a mechanic to diagnose. Thanks for the question!
Did you find the issue? I’m having the same problem, reverse lights come on when in Neutral but not in reverse. Cluster also doesn’t show that I’m in reverse
It is important because that is how the new switch is indexed to begin with. In other words the tool thingie, in the new switch, is indexed to the neutral position. Take the old switch off in the neutral position , neutral position back on.
Was hoping to find out how to get the electrical plugs off. On both my Astro and Chevy vans, the plugs seem to be cemented in - at least the sealant they used sets up and virtually welds the contacts together. Of course they make the plastic switch housing in this area quite weak and breaks long before you get the @#$% plug out. And of course, they put the mounting bolt underneath the plug so you can't get the assembly off where you can work on it better. This is the kind of dumb design that gives me no respect for automotive designers....
I know this is a 3 y/o comment, but for anybody wondering, you need to heat up the connectors with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low to melt the glue they use. I struggled for quite a while before learning that.
+donald mcvey Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
AT 2:36 - Loosen the bolts with an 11mm socket... Leave to GM to make such great choices. Who at GM designs this s% ? Same goes for the 18mm caliper bracket nuts. And one of these days a 16mm will pop up.
hey can anyone help a bus early change my switch my ingintion was solve but the guy that scanner my express van 2006 told me that that sensor will also solve my gear shift problem forgot to mention that my gear box is stuck in first gear
+Yuri Slz Thank you for the comment! The switch is located in two places on the vehicle. Column shifters have the neutral safety switch located on the of the transmission. Mechanical floor shifters have the neutral safety switch located on the of the transmission.
√ *Watch the Video*
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Shouldn't you use some thread locker on the bolts?
Thank you so much for this invaluable public service!
Outstanding video! If only you had replaced the Shift Shaft Seal while you had easy access. That's why I needed to see the Neutral Safety Switch R&R.
Easy to follow instructions, thanks for your help.
Awesome video I want to point out though when you install your new neutral safety switch you can't just bolt it on to the transmission you have to adjust it by tilting forward or backward until you find the right position took hours to figure that out you don't show that in the video at the end best way to get close is to look at the old neutral safety switch hope it helps everybody
I've never once seen them come off the gm trans that easy without using a heat gun. Gm uses a dielectric grease that acts like a glue when cold.
Finally, someone explains exactly why they need to be heated up. I've seen and heard all of this mention of heating the 'glue' in the connectors and I'm losing what's left of my mind trying to figure out why they would glue such a thing, lol. Thank you for helping me.
Procedure worked fine on my 2000 Silverado K1500 truck. I didn't
disconnect the drive shaft at the booted end because there was plenty of room to work around it but I have a Jeg's downpipe instead of stock exhaust so that might make a difference.
Mechanic who installed my rebuilt transmission (I subbed that out because I have a bad back) obviously had trouble with the connectors which were not fully inserted, but my switch went bad due to age which wasn't his fault. Next time I'll do it myself as I'm used to doing.... Not every so-called "experienced" mechanic gets it right which is a great reason to do it yourself.
The way I lube such connectors is with silicone dielectric tuneup grease available at most auto stores. It's designed to exclude water and protects your contacts from moisture. Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is an example but there are many brands. It's useful stuff.
+Ob Fuscated Thank you for checking us out, as well as all of your feedback. This information will certainly assist others perform the replacement. 1aauto.com
For anyone not noticing, this is for a 4wd/awd vehicle. Same jist as a 2wd truck, just not hing to do with the front drive shaft. Another thing is my shift arm that came off the threaded shaft faced in, instead of out like in the video. Pay attention when disassembling. Another thing is the plugs are glued from the factory. My factory switch was melting, so i dont know if it helped with the glue but i had to work it off with a wide blade flat head.
A heat gun works great for removing the plugs. About 30-60sec on each.
Great video! Where was the ATF leaking from? Was it the shift shaft seal?
You got a video for 1986 Chevy K20 neutral safety switch by pass or replacement?
The symptoms that brought me here are when I hit a bump in the road, engine power is cut and the door locks cycle. From searches, I guessed it was because the truck thinks i just slammed it in park from a flaky NS switch. Several bumps in a row or a rough patch put it in limp mode. The issue got progressively worse until I was able to catch it in the act as it set codes including B2550, C codes for traction control and data link codes. Unfortunately, this was not the cause.
The cause was the ground wire that attaches to the block near the oil pressure sender. Remove engine covers and find the thick harness that crosses the passenger side valve cover. Bear the rear of the engine, a black w/ yellow strip wire exits the bundle. There are two failures with this ground: either oil seeps from the pressure sender lubing the nut so it can back off, or the ring terminal corrodes and snaps. This is a major computer ground. Relocate it to a convenient firewall bolt/stud. Also check the A pillar driver side ground and the one by the frame rail under the driver.
Just did this on my 02 Silverado 15004x4. I did not remove the front drive shaft. I just worked around it.
+@erichuie3329 Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Y'all be sure to have a heat gun or a hair dryer because those 2 connections have glue/adhesive. Break the Switch if you have to and save the connections.
selector shaft is an 11mm open end wrench if you don't want to mar the shaft
Does it have to be in neutral to put on the switch ?
I think so, because my shaft is at an angle while in park. His shaft was up and down
Once install , can you take it out and re-install in another car with same model and year ?
Its not as easy removing the plugs as they say...mine was glued in from the factory and you need a heat gun to remove the plugs.
He's not kidding, I used a heat gun it worked great. And there was definitely glue in mine too
Instead of glue, could what you saw have been a silicone-based dielectric grease which can definitely stiffen when colder?
Pain in the ass and this isn't my first time Removing that clip.
Will this affect four wheel drive?
Whenever I have an issue I check out your videos. Thanks for doing such a good job explaining each step and showing them.
Question: My son's 2004 Chev. Silverado (4l80e) drove it home no problems. Next day it started fine but will not shift into any gears. Truck will not move. Is it possible that it is the Neutral Safety Switch? He heard no grinding and no metal was in transmission fluid. I don't believe it is mechanical. I'm stumped. Any idea?
+Larry C Thanks for watching our videos. It could be the neutral safety switch, but can't guarantee that. Your best bet would be to have it professionally diagnosed.
check the linkage. based on how your comment is worded i’d say check if the linkage popped off
Thank you soo much for this great vid. Definitely helped me out
Would this fix my issue on my 2005 Suburban for the dial not showing as being in park? The shifter is in the park position, but the dash shows it as still being in reverse.
Read my comment
Thanks for the video....I just install my switch based on your tutorial.
+firstname lastname You're very welcome. Thank you for the feedback!
Will aceatoñe remove glue from saftyswitch
I need to replace this switch on a 2007 kia sedona. Any advice on this model is greatly appreciated.
This also fix your reverse lights problem and fix when you slide the lever show on N but is already on D if this is helpful let me know please and you a great day
+Cornelio Manzano We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Can you show how to replace clutch safety switch on a 2000 s-10 how far fordwards it goes on the pedal cannot find any videos of this thanks
+james Williams We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I reinstalled this after changing my rear main on my truck. Slow to register on the prnd, but never shows neutral..... which comes to be an issue when 4low is needed. I’m thinking this my help....
at least the front drive shaft will be easy.... heck, my white out hash marks are probably still even there .... :/
Thanks for the video. What if the switch doesn't have the alignment tool? Is there another way to know the position the switch is in?
Thanks for the feedback! +J Santa
@J Santa, kinda late to reply so maybe you already figured it out but this is what I would have done.
Plug the new switch into the wire harness before installing it. Put the transmission into reverse and leave the key in the on position. Now check to see if the reverse lights are on. If not then turn the position of the safety switch until the lights come on then while holding the switch at the angle it will mount, slide it over the actuator and mount it while keeping an eye on the reverse lights.
Does A1 auto sell wire harnesses for gmc trucks?
Is it the same process for an 03 5.3 Silverado
Just a real quick question here. I have a 2003 Chevy Avalanche Z71, it will start fine all the time except when the engine is hot. When the engine is hot if I turn the key to start it it will not crank. You will act the same way that it would if the truck were in gear. Wait 20 minutes, and the truck will start right back up. I noticed in the video how close the neutral safety switch is do the catalytic converter. Is it possible my neutral safety switch is it going bed and only won't work under extreme temperatures? Remember all winter long this truck will start just fine. But in the 90-degree dog days of summer, once I run it I have to wait till it cools down to start it again.
+Joe W We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I didn't look to see how old this post is but I have something you may want to hear .
If you look on the dash before you turn your key all the way on, look to see if you're security light is flashing, if it is the switch is bad and it's above the ashtray and it's a b**** to get out .
I have to wait 10 minutes just to turn it back on, it doesn't happen all the time though.
This is my second 99 Suburban that this has happened to ..
you forgot to mention that these connectors are glued to the sensor, use a heat gun or carefully brake the old sensor off them
+jesus carballo Thanks for the tip!
Don't have one for 2010 Suburban LTZ?
What if your reverse lights won’t shut off would this still be the fix
+Jaybigjefe visiionz We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video but you guys forgot one thing what if I don’t have a 4 x 4 and I only have a 2 Wheel Dr. do you have a video regarding the 2 Wheel Dr. on how to replace that neutral safety switch on a Chevrolet?✝️✝️✝️🙏🏻🇺🇸
+Love Of Christ We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I did mine on a 97 Chevy k1500. But now the truck has all the gears expect for park. I can manually put in park and the shifter will go to park position but the trans will not when u try to use the shifter
Thank you, this is a great video. I have a 98 VW Jetta that last week started giving me intermittent problems getting power to the solenoid when turning the key to the start position (it would take multiple tries). It is now a permanent problem. I verified no power is getting from the ignition switch to the solenoid. I verified the backup lights still work when I place the selector to reverse. Is it still possible the starting problem is caused by the neutral safety switch or could it be a loose wire somewhere? I cleaned all of the positive and ground connectors first to eliminate that as a possibility. I also do hear the starter relay being energized so I'm thinking the problem is with the neutral safety switch (and making me think it is placed between the starter relay and the solenoid). Unfortunately another problem is that the stud turns along with the nut when I try to loosen or tighten the nut on the hot cable from the battery to the solenoid.
I’m having a hard time getting the transmission range switch off. Any tips?
Nevermind. I used a heat gun
+Bronson Stephens Thanks for checking us out!
Thanks for such a detailed video.. question, since the Tahoe / suburban 2007 and 2008 still have the 4L60E transmission, can I purchase same switch (part number) and the location and procedure would still be the same ?
-Thanks
So I just had my trans rebuilt, 4L65e, truck started perfect before I pulled the trans. Took it to a shop to have it rebuilt, put it back in and no start no crank. On the gauge cluster it doesn't show that's it's in park/drive/reverse.... it's not lit up at all. I'm thinking that it doesn't know it's in park. I'm thinking the neutral safety switch is bad, does this sound right? How do I test the switch?
Not sure how to test the switch. Just replaced my transmission in my GMC myself. Had the same issue, had to move the column shifter around to get the light to show which gear and also have reverse lights and lock the doors when moving. The switch was a bitch to get back on. I think I need a new one. Gonna try this.
Hey Js c did you find out what the problem you having
Any news? Same situation
Does anyone know if this part would cause the truck to read being in 2nd gear? This is what I think is keeping my truck from starting. I have an 03 Silvy 2500 with 2wd, Auto trans
Aiden Pearce Either this or the computer.
Why do you have to mark the drive shaft? Can you just put it back however you want to as long as it fits?
+Sam Armas Thanks for checking us out! it is important to mark it to ensure the shaft goes in the same way it came out. If it is not installed in the same position it could cause an issue. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
I have a 2007 Sierra , I did the the exact same thing . Now when I shift into drive my gear shifter looks like its in low one when its in drive .
Good thing you watched the suburban video 💀
Old one had glue around connector, heated it up to remove, but does glue get on pins a prevent contact ?
I tried varsol but only made stuff sticky did not take it off any what would clean them ?
I use aerosol contact cleaner or aerosol silicone spray. Works pretty well.
Would this part cause the transmission to not function properly in drive and 3rd gear? How can you test the switch at the PCM to make sure that the C Solenoid is grounded?
What are the symptoms that this needs to be replaced?
+salley1518 Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Neutral Safety Switch
Engine will not crank in park but cranks in neutral.
Engine will not crank in neutral but cranks in park.
Engine does not crank at all, regardless of the transmission gear.
Engine cranks in any gear.
Maybe, Check that it Starts Before the Front Driveshaft..????
My transmission in my 1999 chevy Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive 5.3 engine speed odometer inoperable truck will not shift into 3rd or drive I have replaced the two sensor on the rear of transfer case speed sensors. part store hooked up and di diagnostic's they said it is torque converter clutch solenoid. I sure would like your advice.
+ricky brewer If it is throwing a code, and this is what the code is pointing to, you may want to replace the defective part. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com
Guys I have an a problem with the selector position in the transmission under the hood, it is stuck or lock right know, I'm already replaced the whole transmission for that one with less miles and running (is what the seller told me) but I don't know if is an a solenoid or an a problem. Thanks guys.
+Humberto Ortega Thank you for checking us out. It could be a solenoid, but this would more likely cause a service engine light code. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts thanks for the answer guys, ok guys but one solenoid can block the transmission right under the hood? I mean the selector shaft in the tcm. Can be a solenoid? I can pull the car and move like is in neutral. Thanks for your help guys.
The Transmission Shop " So Called " Rebuilt it $3.410 .
I've had trouble since day one bringing it home 3 months later it's not going into overdrive, although I only drove it maybe one week out of the 3 months because I've had trouble ever since but this is the latest that he told me, that it is the neutral safety switch, he's telling me that the little indicator on top that tells you what gear it is on is causing the switch to fail " WHAT A JOKE ".
I did take it to another transmission shop just so they could drive it and they said they would tear the whole transmission apart all over again but I ain't got that kind of money so I'm stuck .
Dec. 19 2022
I just put up a 4l60e on my blazer truck and it will not start. the mechanic ripped apart the safety switch while trying to place it on the box. Then forced the plug out which ended up ripping every piece of the switch apart. He placed another used safety switch where piece of the harness was ripped. The truck cranks but not starts on P, neither on N. Is the safety switch the culprit.
Can this be done without taking off the shaft
+gboydro G No you need to take it off.
Will this be the same for a 97 Chevy suburban k1500 4x4?
Yes
What fault does the truck do when this part is wrong?
+JESUS BOGARD If your neutral safety switch is having serious electrical problems, then your engine will not crank in park or neutral. The starter relay relies on the switch for receiving power. If it can't receive this power, then the starter motor will not be able to crank the engine.
What about the epoxy that holds the connectors into the sensor from the factory??? There's no mention of this ...... Yet they portray the image of someone who knows what they are doing
Yeah - those connectors are a bi#@% to remove
@@mikezaloudek4893 Yeah you can completely destroy them if you dont know they are glued in there.(dont ask me how I know that) 😆
I did this without removing the differential shaft.
+Handyman Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
I'm glad my 2003 Chevy Coachman (3500 Express Van) safety switch can be accessed with no driveline or anything in the way. My next maintenance project.
Is there anyway i could find the wiring harness for this
+LS Brandon We do not currently have the wiring harness for sale. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
What if my Truck is indicating that it’s in reverse while it’s in park could this still be at fault?
+Brandon Wilkinson The neutral safety switch is a safety device that only allows you to start your engine when the automatic transmission is in either Park or Neutral. We recommend taking your vehicle to have a mechanic to diagnose. Thanks for the question!
Did you find the issue? I’m having the same problem, reverse lights come on when in Neutral but not in reverse. Cluster also doesn’t show that I’m in reverse
Why is it so important to have the vehicle in neutral when doing this job?
That's how the sensor will know it is in neutral. It cuts power to the starter so you won't start in drive.
It is important because that is how the new switch is indexed to begin with. In other words the tool thingie, in the new switch, is indexed to the neutral position. Take the old switch off in the neutral position , neutral position back on.
If the transferred case adapter breaks and im doing 60 mph would that keep the truck from hoing into 3 and 4 gear
3-4 clutch pack is probally toast
Does anyone know where is the neutral safety switch located on 00 biuck lesabre
Was hoping to find out how to get the electrical plugs off. On both my Astro and Chevy vans, the plugs seem to be cemented in - at least the sealant they used sets up and virtually welds the contacts together. Of course they make the plastic switch housing in this area quite weak and breaks long before you get the @#$% plug out. And of course, they put the mounting bolt underneath the plug so you can't get the assembly off where you can work on it better. This is the kind of dumb design that gives me no respect for automotive designers....
I know this is a 3 y/o comment, but for anybody wondering, you need to heat up the connectors with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low to melt the glue they use. I struggled for quite a while before learning that.
Can someone please tell me If a neutral safety switch for a 2007 impala is it on the inside or outside of the transformation
all safety switch is on the outside of the gear box
thanks
I ask google for how to take off and install neutral safety switch and got nothing for 98 Buick regal
+donald mcvey Thank you for watching. Unfortunately, we do not have a video for your application. We will keep this in mind for future repairs. www.1AAuto.com?UA-cam&CTA%20Comment& 866-403-3393
donald mcvey ben
Is this also the backup light switch?
Ken6151 Yea
You didnt mention the stupid glue on the two wiring connectors.... what's the proper way to reconnect the gooey mess? Heat up first?
Use a heat gun. If you don't have a heat gun a blow dryer will work
did you forget to heat plugs to make them fit in
AT 2:36 - Loosen the bolts with an 11mm socket... Leave to GM to make such great choices. Who at GM designs this s% ? Same goes for the 18mm caliper bracket nuts. And one of these days a 16mm will pop up.
I hate GM truck engineers.
I think gmc was on dope when the put that on a envoy cant remove them without breaking the switch ive tried two and cannot remove the harness
hey can anyone help a bus early change my switch my ingintion was solve but the guy that scanner my express van 2006 told me that that sensor will also solve my gear shift problem forgot to mention that my gear box is stuck in first gear
Please someone help me I cant find the neutral safty swich in a 00 lesabre
+Yuri Slz Thank you for the comment! The switch is located in two places on the vehicle. Column shifters have the neutral safety switch located on the of the transmission. Mechanical floor shifters have the neutral safety switch located on the of the transmission.
Please help me 1Aauto and I will buy alot parts from you guys do you know where is the neutral safety switch located on 00 biuck lesabre