Wholly twisted sack of nuts am I glad I found your gem of a video. Found on road dead was about to be the least of my trucks problems. You nailed it! Thank you.
I’m replacing the TRS on my 2003 Ford F150 with the 4R70W transmission and 4x4. I got the P0705 code. Thank you for the video. I was able to replace the TRS on my F150 with lots of penetrating oil.
I was gonna say I don’t see any oil on all that. The bolt at the safety switch. I would also use grease putting it back together and it will never freeze up again
Wow the only thing i wanted to know is how to put the shifter cable back on and you stopped the video just before that... Does it just push on? Do you have to slide something? Mine wont stay on;
As an amateur I always soak the bolts with WD or PB Blaster before I start the project, being careful with the overspray. Is there a reason I don't see more pro's using that method?
Can this neutral safety switch cause problems going into reverse? What’s the symptoms of a bad switch? Mine has to find the perfect spot to go in reverse and it’s a pain
good video. i got the 2010 f-150 the P0708 will this code put you in limp mode as well. i also have no gear indicator's on the dash is this part of the n safter switch your are replasing problum . thanks for any help or ad vice. also what if you are just a little bit off on the mark will it still sind a code.
thanks for the video. i see a leak behind the NSS on my 2007 f150 5.4 4x4. i think that seal behind the nss is leaking. question - what is the name of the seal? do you have a ford part #?
mines not throwing any codes but won’t start in park sometimes i’ll sometimes have to start in reverse or drive or neutral etc etc. hoping this is my fix
Thats all the same on the 1998 ford f150 v6 regular cab. So you say its bad if its hard to shift it mines not hard to shift so then what im gonna do is put the new transmission pan gasket on first and fluid then see how it does mine might still be good and that'll be one less part i have to buy I'll clean the prongs off though on the electrical part
Would this help with my 2006 ford f150, the problem is when I try to start it sometimes it starts and then other time it doesn’t want to start, the lights turn on and everything and then when I put it into neutral it starts up but on park it doesn’t, any idea? Also sometimes when I put gas it stalls to try to turn on and I wait a couple of minutes for it to turn back on. Thank you
My f150 wont start I replaced the ignition and the battery and the silenoid and starter and it will only still start from the selinoid. Im not having any issues from the safety switch but it has never been replaced and is really old could it still be the safety switch not sending the signal to the selinoid and im not having any other issues with the safety switch thanks.
My 2006 ford f150 xl does this once every 4 months then is fine. It won’t start in park but it does in neutral I know I should replace it but I want to make it do it again then replace it so I know it fixed it. Does anyone know how to make it not start? Basically make it break itself. Sounds dumb but I don’t want to fix it and it do it again and I wasted money.
I was driving back from Vacation- and mine started giving me a “Trans Fault” with a flashing o/d light- Took it to get coded and it read a P0705 code. Going to change this part out due to the RPM’s jumping between 4/5 gear.
@@markkrist9039 as of now it looks like its fixing the issue i cant get it to throw a trans fault anymore but ive also had this issue about 3-4k miles ago swapped the sensor back then and it worked fine until a few days ago so im hopinjg it was a bad sensor
@@Mike-su8si sadly thats what im thinking trans light came back on after a couple weeks but seems to be realy finicky on when it shows up heard theres a problem with wiring harness over passenger header that likes to get melted together and then cause some issues. may be something to look into if your still having issues thats the next thing im checking before doing a tranny rebuild
knowing your tools and their capabilities is what makes the difference between a good mechanic and a great mechanic and any mechanic that watched this video would know that I was using a soldering torch and not a cutting torch and a soldering torch gives you more of a controlled heat this torch is not capable of cutting metal but thanks for your concern
I agree & all due respect to you Sir but Im sorry, that switch is made of plastic, theres a wiring harness plugged into that, torch flame of any temperature belongs nowhere near that. Ford would agree with me, thats an improper method for removal. Proper procedure is use of a penetrating solvent/oil to break down the rust on the shift shaft itself, thats it.
I@@nomoniker7917 I believe he had the harness removed, so the only part ruined would simply be the end on the bad sensor , so to some it up , your worries are groundless
@robertboyd A torch flame, whether propane or mapp belongs NOWHERE NEAR THE TRANSMISSION. Ive dealt with alot of rusted junk connectors & hardware, if whatever youre working on is not made of metal completely or is too close to any plastic or rubber insulation, fittings or connectors...you dont do it, period...its a reckless way to work.
I appreciate you doing the video in real time. And warnings on worst case scenario.
Wholly twisted sack of nuts am I glad I found your gem of a video. Found on road dead was about to be the least of my trucks problems. You nailed it! Thank you.
I’m replacing the TRS on my 2003 Ford F150 with the 4R70W transmission and 4x4. I got the P0705 code. Thank you for the video. I was able to replace the TRS on my F150 with lots of penetrating oil.
Tighten the nut, CLEAN THE EXPOSED THREADS, then loosen it, the corroded threads is whats binding up the nut.
Thank you, just did mine today and it was rusted just as a bad. Fairly easy just time consuming
Do not heat it, lubricate it. Working it back and forth with oil on the threads will bring about magical results.
Try soaking with penatring oil &let soak
I was gonna say I don’t see any oil on all that. The bolt at the safety switch. I would also use grease putting it back together and it will never freeze up again
I just imagine mine will be the same. 2000 F 150
Thanks so much!
Great video. One of the best. Thanks
I have a 2011 xlt 3.7 with a code P0705 “trans range sensor input” I’m going to replace and hopefully my reverse doesn’t slip again
did this part fix your problem
Wow the only thing i wanted to know is how to put the shifter cable back on and you stopped the video just before that... Does it just push on? Do you have to slide something? Mine wont stay on;
As an amateur I always soak the bolts with WD or PB Blaster before I start the project, being careful with the overspray. Is there a reason I don't see more pro's using that method?
I have not had much luck with PB Blaster removing the nut on this Neutral Safety but I do use it in some of my other videos
I’d certainly try it. Nothing to lose
Fire is your friend when you’ve confirmed you don’t want there to be a bolt anymore
Nut buster induction heater😉👍😎💪🛠
Can this neutral safety switch cause problems going into reverse? What’s the symptoms of a bad switch? Mine has to find the perfect spot to go in reverse and it’s a pain
Excellent video.
Im hoping my range sensor is still good.
Great video. Thanks. Maybe wiggling my shifter and occasionally having to start in neutral isn’t so terrible. 🤷♂️
No, it will get worse
@@jacobrogers4619 thanks. I went ahead and fixed it, but I honestly appreciate the input. Had I not fixed it, you would likely have been my incentive.
good video. i got the 2010 f-150 the P0708 will this code put you in limp mode as well. i also have no gear indicator's on the dash is this part of the n safter switch your are replasing problum . thanks for any help or ad vice. also what if you are just a little bit off on the mark will it still sind a code.
no, it wont send a code but it might not start in park
@@codemansauto208 I got a question
Those two o'rings are part of the neutral safety switch right?
thanks for the video. i see a leak behind the NSS on my 2007 f150 5.4 4x4. i think that seal behind the nss is leaking. question - what is the name of the seal? do you have a ford part #?
should be a Linkage Shaft Seal, but not sure on the part number
some parts books call it a shift shaft seal
mines not throwing any codes but won’t start in park sometimes i’ll sometimes have to start in reverse or drive or neutral etc etc. hoping this is my fix
this a good place to start
Did i miss hearing what size bolts?
Thats all the same on the 1998 ford f150 v6 regular cab.
So you say its bad if its hard to shift it mines not hard to shift so then what im gonna do is put the new transmission pan gasket on first and fluid then see how it does mine might still be good and that'll be one less part i have to buy I'll clean the prongs off though on the electrical part
Thanks god bless
Would this help with my 2006 ford f150, the problem is when I try to start it sometimes it starts and then other time it doesn’t want to start, the lights turn on and everything and then when I put it into neutral it starts up but on park it doesn’t, any idea? Also sometimes when I put gas it stalls to try to turn on and I wait a couple of minutes for it to turn back on. Thank you
this neutral safety switch sounds like your fix
Make sure that you line up the two marks on the new switch as shown in the video
I too have a 2006 f150 with exact symptoms I just picked up a new sensor gonna try it when I get home. Hope this is the fix
Update.thank you to the poster. This was my exact problem!
My f150 wont start I replaced the ignition and the battery and the silenoid and starter and it will only still start from the selinoid. Im not having any issues from the safety switch but it has never been replaced and is really old could it still be the safety switch not sending the signal to the selinoid and im not having any other issues with the safety switch thanks.
My 2000 f150 would only start off of solenoid until I replaced the safety neutral switch now it's fine
Nahhh that heat won’t hurt the seal, the trans gets the range sensor itself super hot.
My 2006 ford f150 xl does this once every 4 months then is fine. It won’t start in park but it does in neutral I know I should replace it but I want to make it do it again then replace it so I know it fixed it. Does anyone know how to make it not start? Basically make it break itself. Sounds dumb but I don’t want to fix it and it do it again and I wasted money.
I was driving back from Vacation- and mine started giving me a “Trans Fault” with a flashing o/d light-
Took it to get coded and it read a P0705 code.
Going to change this part out due to the RPM’s jumping between 4/5 gear.
same exact issue im having swapping the sensor today
@@stormyday5732 let me know if that solves your issue.
@@markkrist9039 as of now it looks like its fixing the issue i cant get it to throw a trans fault anymore but ive also had this issue about 3-4k miles ago swapped the sensor back then and it worked fine until a few days ago so im hopinjg it was a bad sensor
Or was a electrical problem
@@Mike-su8si sadly thats what im thinking trans light came back on after a couple weeks but seems to be realy finicky on when it shows up heard theres a problem with wiring harness over passenger header that likes to get melted together and then cause some issues. may be something to look into if your still having issues thats the next thing im checking before doing a tranny rebuild
PB blaster night before doing it
I had the same issue with that damn nut.
it can be a tough one
Isn't there a heating rod you can hang on nut
torch ????? dumb wd 40 would have been all you need
I live in a salt state
A torch shouldnt be anywhere near that switch or the transmission itself.
Dont believe I just saw that. THIS VIDEO IS FOR WHAT >NOT< TO DO
knowing your tools and their capabilities is what makes the difference between a good mechanic and a great mechanic and any mechanic that watched this video would know that I was using a soldering torch and not a cutting torch and a soldering torch gives you more of a controlled heat this torch is not capable of cutting metal but thanks for your concern
I agree & all due respect to you Sir but Im sorry, that switch is made of plastic, theres a wiring harness plugged into that, torch flame of any temperature belongs nowhere near that.
Ford would agree with me, thats an improper method for removal.
Proper procedure is use of a penetrating solvent/oil to break down the rust on the shift shaft itself, thats it.
I@@nomoniker7917 I believe he had the harness removed, so the only part ruined would simply be the end on the bad sensor , so to some it up , your worries are groundless
@robertboyd
A torch flame, whether propane or mapp belongs NOWHERE NEAR THE TRANSMISSION. Ive dealt with alot of rusted junk connectors & hardware, if whatever youre working on is not made of metal completely or is too close to any plastic or rubber insulation, fittings or connectors...you dont do it, period...its a reckless way to work.
@@nomoniker7917 lol Yes Karen