4D56T Cylinder Head Replacement Part 3 Head and Timing Belt install -Complete Guide -
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- Опубліковано 7 лис 2021
- Getting the timing correct on the 4D56t is important, and can be a tricky. In Pt3 we will reinstal the new cylinder head, and install the new timing belt, tensioner, and get the truck fired up. Again this job will be the same for the Triton, Pajero, 4D powered L400 and any other 4D56T powered vehicle.
Part 1 - Teardown of the top end of the motor and removal of the timing components.
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Part 2 - Stripping down the damaged cylinder head and swapping the valve train over the new bare casting.
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Part 3 - Cylinder head and timing belt installation, valve lash set
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Technical References may be found at delica.ca/forum/viewforum.php?...
This job may differ slightly from vehicle to vehicle. Any work performed at home is done at your own risk. - Авто та транспорт
Just finished the head gasket change on my l200 pickup this weekend, this set of vids was incredibly helpful, so cheers from the UK! Stripped everything down one weekend, ordered the new bits, and built it back up the next. Engine is now running 👌
4 x so far, mine would be in the junk yard. "Thats all there is to it" get a bit older and you would never say that. Well done.
Well with its most recent scattering of its parts all over the road and cracked block.... the next engine isn't going to be a Mitsubishi power plant.
Great video! Did mine a few years ago. Looking forward to more l300 videos.
Fantastic clearly explained, well filmed, clear videos 👍
My 4D56 is in a Mitsubishi pickup truck here in the UK but so much of your info in these videos are perfectly relevent.
Quick question : you say head bolts to 118Nm, but my manual says 29Nm then two 90degree turns.
I'm new to this game....why the difference? Do they end up approximately the same torque in both methods?
Glad you have found the videos helpful. Regarding the torque spec, none of the manuals I have at my disposal state toque to angle so I can't really speak to that.
As per FSM "4D56 91-93" page 11A-1-6:
1) Tighten bolts in sequence shown (1 though 18 as shown in the video)
2) Repeat the tighten sequence several times, and tighten the bolts to specification in final sequence.
Spec: 118Nm / 12kgm / 87ft.lbs
these videos are invaluable. So grateful for this brother.
Thanks Nikolas, always great to hear the videos are helpful!
You're a true patron saint of the delica community! Is there any chance you could add a parts list to the information section of these videos? I know they're in the manual and its a bit lazy of me to ask you to do the work, but I think it could be helpful to have that available for quick reference or for anyone new to the world of parts lookups. Thanks for taking the time to make these!
Thanks @alexarding7530 glad you find my videos helpful. The reason I do not always post a parts list is because there are minor differences in parts depending on the year of the van. For example the timing belt for an early van uses a square edge tooth while the later vans use a round tooth. It's best to punch you vin into a vin checker and get the correct part numbers to your specific vehicle.
@@projectaddiction that makes perfect sense and that aspect didn’t even cross my mind!
What size feeler gauge you use to adjust
I got everything back together, runs good now (head gasket was leaking coolant and exhaust gasses), just wondering if I should bother checking if the head bolts are still at the correct torque setting after 100km or so. It's a bit annoying to remove and re-seal the rocker cover but is that something you do?
Technically you should not need to if everything was done correctly, however it also doesn't hurt to do it. I do it on my personal van because it has had chronic head gasket failures.
Great series, so helpful. please correct me but aren't the head bolt washers meant to be burred side up?
Yes that is correct. The sharp edge or bur should be facing upwards with the rounded edge facing the cylinder head.
@@projectaddiction thanks for the instant reply, I think I just got mixed up with the wording😅
Did I mess up. Installed my cylinder head bolts without installing the rocker shaft. Went to install and tighten down the rocker shaft after setting cam to timing mark, but I haven't torqued it down yet. Feels like there is a bit too much resistance on some of the valves so I tried loosening the lash adjusters a bit just incase. No way of checking for piston/valve contact without timing belts installed ... correct?
Make sure your crank is set to top dead center by checking it against the timing mark on the block. You can place the cam pulley onto the cam and align the mark to the head. Then tighten down the rocker. If the mark are correctly aligned the number one valves should remain fully closed as you tighten the rocker shaft.
You mentioned the head bolt washer flat end should go up. I installed them in this way and torqued the head, but realize in the manual it says the burred (rounded) side should go up. Is it worth un-doing the head bolts and flipping them?
I just looked through my FSM again and confirmed rounded edge down, with the sheer bur facing up as correct. Honestly doubt it makes much difference in the end... I suppose the bur could in theory dig into the head a little bit and affect the final torque but I would be surprised if its enough to be noticeable.
@@projectaddiction copy. Thanks for double checking. I figured either way it’s facing won’t make a drastic difference.
Sir i also changing new cylinder head my 4D56-A intercooler turbo, but the problem is the leak. in your second video you removed the first dowel if you facing the engine. now the question is where the leak came from? and the water temperature above a little bit in the middle. how much exact torque of nM in the cylinder head bolt?
The dowel pins are removed for cleaning the head surface but MUST be re-installed prior placing the new head on the block. If your engine is just dripping coolant from the front of the engine and running a bit hot I would look at your Tstat and water pump first. Head bolt spec is listed in the head installation video.
Its not a cooling system its a oil dripping in front beside the power steering pump and no more thermostat totally directed. @@projectaddiction
@@juvanmagsayo6616 Do not run without a thermostat. The Tstat regulates coolant flow, without it the flow rate can become to high that there is not sufficient time for the rad to evacuate heat from the coolant. In other words running no T stat can result in over heating.
Your best bet to find the leak will be to clean the engine off completely, then allow it to run. Follow the oil from the bottom up until you find the source. There are many gaskets, lines, and fittings in that area that could potentially leak. Unfortunately it is a game of hide and seek that can only be done in person. Wish I could be more help, but I'm sure you'll pin point it.
They only have is the housing of the radiator but thermostat none. directly already. how to determine the thermostat sending unit there are to connection, the two terminal connection all the positive or only 1 positive in 1 negative? the problem here why i don't have the thermostat is the availability in the auto parts.@@projectaddiction
Make more L300 vids bro
Make sure you're subscribed, there are L300 videos to come :)
@@projectaddiction definitely subbed I’m getting my L300 soon and would like to learn as much as I can considering I am not a car guy thanks for the content
The Music is so annoying, but I cannot take it off or I miss what you are saying..
Hi Philip. Sorry I was still learning how to use the editor so the DB level of my speaking vs the music may not be ideal. I might suggest turning the captions on if my voice comes across to quietly. May I ask what you are viewing on?