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4D56T Cylinder Head Replacement Part 2 Cylinder Head Assembly - Complete Guide -
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- Опубліковано 27 жов 2021
- Thinking about trying to tackle your 4D56T cylinder head at home? This three part series documents the complete cylinder head and timing belt replacement procedure so you can decide if you are up to the challenge. The job is done on my 91 L300 Delica but crosses over to the Triton, Pajero, L400 (non 4M40) and other 4D56T powered vehicles.
Part 1 - Teardown of the top end of the motor and removal of the timing components.
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Part 2 - Stripping down the damaged cylinder head and swapping the valve train over the new bare casting.
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Part 3 - Cylinder head and timing belt installation
• 4D56T Cylinder Head Re...
Technical References may be found at delica.ca/forum...
This job may differ slightly from vehicle to vehicle. Any work performed at home is done at your own risk.
What grit and brand sanding block do you use? I got a set from lee valley. 220, 1000, 4000, 8000 grit. They are waterstones for precision sharpening. Would that work or does it have to be oil stone? Also what if there's a bunch of gasket material to scrape off? Do you gave to suck out all the holes that go to coolant and oil systems afterwards, should they be plugged somehow?
I just use 500 and 800 wet sand paper and a sanding block made from some scrap hardwood. Nothing special. It can be hard to plug the holes so just he careful and try avoid dripping junk in the oil and coolant ports if at all possible. I normally just blow everything out with compressed air when I am finished cleaning.
Hey what size socket did you use for the fuel injector holder? This series is so helpful btw, thanks Cam.
Hey Conner, sorry for the late reply I didn't get a notification for your comment. The return line nuts should be 17, and for the injector itself i actually a 7/8 thin wall because my 22 has gone a vacation somewhere... Glad you are finding the series useful.
What happend if I Put a head cilinder with flash valves?
If you put a flush valve head on a protruding valve block the compression ratio will drop substantially. It will "work"... However you will be very very down on power.
Thanks for your answerd
Hey can you say what brand of head to buy? Japanparts is cheap, but I'm afraid of its quality
Unless ones buys OEM it is really hard to say what one will end up with. The off brands heads are really or miss. I have gotten good heads and bad ones all from the same suppliers. It's kinda luck of the draw.
wondering why you went to all the effort of grinding the ports when its forced induction but diddn't lap in the old valves to the new head or check contact with blueing paste?
Personally I tend to only lap the valves if there is pitting or imperfections in the surface or the valves or seats. Some say you take away the hardening by lapping, others say always lap them... On a higher performance build I would likely lap them, but I figure in the end the 4d56 is still a boat anchor of an engine so I am not to worried. The reason I clean up the ports is actually for EGTs. The 4d runs very high exhaust gas temps, so there are a few ways to help lower them. Add more air, or help the air evacuate the head faster. Forced induction or NA the closer to laminar flow you can get is always going to be more efficient, and the ports always seem to be full of cast flashing, seams, or sharp edges. Being IDI there is no need for turbulence in the intake, so I clean them up in effort to drop the exhaust temps and improve the effectiveness of the turbo. The van is also running a custom ground camshaft, a TD04-12T, 5 bold down pipe, and a 2.5" side exit exhaust.
Hi Cam, on your return fuel rail, does/did any part of the tube to nut connections have movement or is yours completely rigid throughout? Great video again.
Cheers! The fuel return should be fully rigid. If there is play or the "nut" spins on the tube the part should be replaced as it will likely leak. In saying that I have brazed them with solder in a pinch.
Hi, very good video hanks.
I have a Mitsubishi delica l300 4x4 1993 4d56 engine w oil refrigerated turbo.
I need to replace the head cilinder. My have protuder valves.
Do you know wich is the Hyundai modelo for replace IT?
I'm a not as familiar with the 4BF so I'm not sure which style head runs. Being that it is a slightly more recent motor I would suspect it to be a flush valve... however you will need to confirm for yourself on that one I'm afraid.
Hi Fernando, I also have an l300 4x4 and Im doing an overall on my engine and from what I have been told by some mecanics the protuder valves cylinder heads and the bigger pistons are the 4D56 turbo and the flush valves and small pistons are the non turbo 4D56.
Hey great video, wondering how much can you tell about the condition of an engine just by seeing the the engine bay?
Hi Derrick. there's no way to tell the internal condition of an engine just by a visual inspection on its own. Best thing you can do if you are unsure is to take it to a shop to have an inspection. Otherwise just listen for any noises that are out of the ordinary (rattles, clanks, ticks etc). You can do a rudimentary head gasket test by taking it on a short test drive. I have a short video on my channel showing how to do this.
Where did you purchase your head from?
I import mine in directly from over seas, however there are a number of importers in the Vancouver Canada area which will have them in stock and ship world wide.