I have a L200 1996 model and after watching your video I confidently removed the water pump and replaced it. Thumbs up brother keep your videos coming 👏👏👏👏
I was not one of the lucky ones . Thank you so much for making this video dude its always a pain to film you did a really good job I highly appreciate it. Made it allot easier for me.
Thanks, the video will still be here if/when you need it. The timing belt should be replaced every 60k miles. Believe me it’s better to do preventative maintenance instead of the belt snapping allowing valves to smash into pistons. Mostly I hear it only snaps some rocker arms but I’ve heard of some people’s cylinder heads being written off.
Aha I’m only 3.02 in so far but I’m finding it very relaxing strangely even though I should really be watching thoughtfully as I’m going to do this to mine which I’ve just recently bought! Cracked me up with ‘hands like a budgees feet’ 🤣. Do you mind me asking where your from? Sound near to me
Hi first off great vid helped me out no end. Just wondered did you lock up the engine to tighten the crank pulley bolt back up and did you know the torque setting to do it?
I think I just tried it in different gears until I found the one that gave the most resistance and tightened the bolt with a breaker bar. I didn’t use a torque wrench just tight tight and it’s still running fine lol
Pleased it helps mate. It wouldn’t surprise me that they are similar. I was under a old Nissan Terrano not long ago and it is almost identical to the Mitsubishi L200 also... I actually just searched “Hyundai Galloper” into google and found this: “Galloper is an SUV, built by Hyundai Precision & Ind. ... It was a rebadged and restyled updated first generation of the Japanese original Mitsubishi Pajero 4X4 offroad model” - and I know the Pajero uses the same 4D56 engine.
@@craftycouple8283 Yes that is true. Hyundai calls the engine the D4BH designation though. These engines have a weak spot which is their aluminium cylinder head and to some degree the head gasket. They like to eat cylinder heads, especially when overheating, being driven too hard while cold and pushing the engine too hard going uphill. I would know as I have researched this a fair bit and am going to change the cylinder head on my engine, and do the timing and balancer belt at the same time. Your video is very helpful and I'm grateful that I've accidentally stumbled upon it here on youtube. :)
Very interesting comment! I have seen from forums and Facebook groups people comment that the head has blown or water is bubbling in the radiator (head gasket gone). I’ve heard also many people try to keep the revs under 3000rpm. I’ve put just over 10k miles on mine and have deffo tried my best to keep it under 3k revs. I’ve ever driven from Amsterdam to Bulgaria 3 times, once towing a 2T trailer and it’s still going strong! I’m glad my vid has helped that’s what I made it for! Please let me know how you get on.
It’s been a while, but I think I just put it in gear and then used a breaker bar to tighten the crank pulley. If I did it again I would absolutely check the correct tightening torque…but it hasn’t fallen off yet so must be ok!
My L200 (Gen 2, which I this is?) has the 2,6L, need to change the timing belt (its about 100 000km since last time it was replaced, so getting to be about time to do so again). So I have two questions, 1. Is this the 2,6L? Looking at the servo pump/alternator it looks like mine, but then again the 2,4 and 2,6L may be built pretty much the same, other than volume. 2. How important are the torque specs on the bolts? Maybe dont be too precise on some, but which would you say I need to use torque wrench on and to what torque? Thanks in advance, this video have given me insight into what procedure!
This is 2.5L 4D56 diesel engine… Not sure on the torque specs tbh. If you need them you can find the 4D56 workshop manual on the internet and it will tell you on there.
@@craftycouple8283 I'll let you know when I get there. Will need a complete new head, and maybe more, but need to open it up to have a look first before ordering parts..
@@craftycouple8283 nope.. what we think is that the top cracked.. still need to get the lower wheel off to be able to get the timing belt cover off and start dismantling.. Haven't got time, but hopefully during Christmas break
No it’s not absolutely necessary. My reasoning was I wanted to be absolutely sure the new belt went on the same way the old belt came off. So I counted the teeth on the belt between the marks on the gears. Possibly OTT.
Good Video my shogan sport 2004 needs th same doing very similar engine I think... could you tell me how long it took from cracking the first bolt... once again very good video... I want to download it...Thanks
Thanks for you comment. It’s difficult to say exactly how long it took me because I was filming. However, I would estimate, if I wasn’t filming and taking my time, that it would have taken me a full day. I’m sure now I could do it much faster but this was my first time doing a timing belt and I couldn’t find any videos on how to do it; so I was kind of just taking things as they come.
@@craftycouple8283 that was exactly my problem ..finding a instruction video..machanics are way too expensive... could you tell me ,when you started the engine the rad wasn't on... was there water in the engine ..?
Yes there’s deffo water in the engine and as I found out...water with antifreeze definitely stains concrete! So if you drop the water, have a hose ready to wash it away! Or find a way to drain it properly?
I also just thought if you’re NOT replacing the water pump or the thermostat you can stop most of the water coming out of the engine. When you remove the hoses from radiator you could try and fold them to stop the water coming out. You could then keep the hose folded with a cable tie when you’re working. This way you will save the water from coming out the engine but you will still lose most water out the radiator...
I don't know how your bottom pulley came off so easily haha. Mine is being stubborn and won't move an inch. Do you have any recommendations to get it off?
I can’t remember if I described this method in the video: Put a socket and ratchet (better to use a bar with 1/2” square drive instead of 1/2” ratchet as ratchet mechanism could be a weak point) on the pulley bolt. Set the bar or ratchet on the cross member directly below the pulley. Make it so it’s touching the bar. Then turn the engine over but only a quick blip on the starter. The engine turns clockwise when looking from the free end so it gives the ratchet the torque needed to slacken the pulley bolt.
Thank u so much for the video. I have the same engine and learnings how to remove the belts myself. Workshops are expensive as hell. Btw sir i wanna ask, what's the socket size of to open those nuts?
Hi Crafty Couple. Robbo here just wondered if you could help.when you did your timing belt. What timing mark did you set first camshaft, crankshaft or fuel injector. let me explain a bit more, my cam belt snapped, no damage to rockers, now ready to reinstall belt,s but all timing marks line up except the crankshaft, its two teeth out, rotated it and still two teeth out, then the pressure kicked in and I couldn't rotate it further. looked on the net but very confusing too a amateur like myself, just wondered have you any ideas, thanks in advance. ROBBO.
If the crankshaft sprocket is 2 teeth out could you not just remove the timing belt and turn the sprocket? I think you would have to put the auxy belt pulley back with the bolt. Then use a socket and breaker bar or something similar with good leverage to turn the crankshaft. If you were to do it this way you'd have to make sure the camshaft + fuel pump sprockets stay still (clamp them or mark them so you see if they've moved). OR you could turn the engine by putting it in 5th gear and turning the propshaft by hand (where it comes out of the gearbox) - this would negate the need to put the aux belt pulley back on the crankshaft. You'd need someone to watch for the mark lining up and remember there's a gearbox in the way so it may take a good few turns of the prop shaft to get the 2 teeth back into place. I have the workshop manual with a good explanation how to set it up properly against the timing marks...If you would like it then e-mail me @ david-bulley@hotmail.com
No, if the cooling water is cold then it wouldn’t make a difference. If the water pump is broken and you try to run the engine for some time you would overheat the engine and it could cause a lot of problems...engines need air, fuel (the correct amount and at the correct time) and heat to work...so air: needs unclogged air filter, working turbo/intercooler (intercooler not working makes air hotter and shortens life of inlet/exhaust valves), fuel: needs working fuel pump, working injectors, injectors injecting fuel at correct time (correct position of timing gears in relation to each other: crankshaft gear, camshaft gear, fuel pump gear), heat: not losing compression with bad piston rings, bad cylinder liners or valves not sealing correctly on their seats. Those are just some of possible reasons for engine not starting I thought of from the top of my head.
There are marks on the casing and some on the pulleys, but I found it easier to use a paint marker on a tooth of the pulleys and against somewhere more convenient...
Awesome. I have brakes to sort next, hopefully do a vid on that! Eventually I want to take the tub off (because it’s rotten underneath), make a high sided tub and spray it all in raptor paint (I’ve done the wings and it looks amazing). Also, I’d like make a metal winch bumper. Did some off roading yesterday but didn’t film...thanks for the sub and let me know how you get on with changing the belts!
@@craftycouple8283 Thanks mate. I had an issue with brakes jammed sliders stuck brake piston i took care of that. My tub is made out of fibre lol it saves me from rust and all. Very interested in the painting plus winch bumper. Eagerly awaiting. Found you from l200 group Facebook. Continue the good work.
@@craftycouple8283 Thank you, I can't install my balancer belt i have a damaged balancer shaft, I canf afford to overhaul the whole engine to fix it :D, im worried about the effects in the long run without balancer belt.
Without the balance shaft and belt counterbalancing the engines vibrations you will destroy the engine. The engines vibrations would prematurely wear out bearings unfortunately.
Hello, I have recently changed my radiator, thermostat, water pump and completely flushed the system. I have this issue where my lower radiator hose doesn’t get hot. But the top hose is boiling and the car over heats. Does anyone have any recommendations? Greatly appreciate. 👍
Some of my ideas: Try taking out thermostat, put in boiling or very hot water and see if the valve moves. If not movement then thermostat defective. Try putting old thermostat back as is easy and fast to do.
That’s not the oil pump! There’s two balance shafts one on the left and one the right both have to be timed using the timing marks on the pulleys and casing. The oil pump is driven by a gear directly off the crankshaft.
La marca del eje levas la lleva en la carcaza de distribución. No es la que inventaste en forma vertical 👍🏻 The camshaft marking is on the timing case. It is not the one you invented vertically
Right now I don’t have a garage for a compressor or anything like that. I’m pretty much carrying tools in and out the house. Definitely when I get a dedicated workshop I’ll invest in air tools!
Hi once again, just ha another look at your video, and noticed your camshaft and crankshaft timing marks a in a different place too mine, same engine 4d56 but mines a shogun, even more confused now . ha ha ha...
Be sure to like and subscribe!
I have a L200 1996 model and after watching your video I confidently removed the water pump and replaced it. Thumbs up brother keep your videos coming 👏👏👏👏
Nice one brother
It's beautiful watching the pully snap into place at the end
I was not one of the lucky ones . Thank you so much for making this video dude its always a pain to film you did a really good job I highly appreciate it. Made it allot easier for me.
You’re very welcome. Thank you for the pleasant comment.
Well done. Thank you for sharing the video. It gave me an idea how to change the timing belt of my pick up like yours. Cheers.
You have provided me with more confidence to tackle this task, I still hope its not necessary yet.
Thanks, the video will still be here if/when you need it. The timing belt should be replaced every 60k miles. Believe me it’s better to do preventative maintenance instead of the belt snapping allowing valves to smash into pistons. Mostly I hear it only snaps some rocker arms but I’ve heard of some people’s cylinder heads being written off.
Very good video. Best part the security check with the wife so If it blows he isn’t alone in it
Aha I’m only 3.02 in so far but I’m finding it very relaxing strangely even though I should really be watching thoughtfully as I’m going to do this to mine which I’ve just recently bought! Cracked me up with ‘hands like a budgees feet’ 🤣. Do you mind me asking where your from? Sound near to me
Thanks for the comment, I’m originally from South Shields.
A very informative video. I would have thought while you had it all apart, you would have replaced the camshaft and crankshaft oil seals?
Hindsight is a beautiful thing I suppose. Had I thought about it I would have done it! Next time I will thanks to your tip.
Watched this too late!!! Great vid, i think i jumped a tooth on balance belt and i have bad power, I'll get it right, good job guys👍
Hi first off great vid helped me out no end. Just wondered did you lock up the engine to tighten the crank pulley bolt back up and did you know the torque setting to do it?
I think I just tried it in different gears until I found the one that gave the most resistance and tightened the bolt with a breaker bar. I didn’t use a torque wrench just tight tight and it’s still running fine lol
Nice, perfect. This looks very similar to my galloper, and its like 0 tutorials videos for galloper. :)
Pleased it helps mate. It wouldn’t surprise me that they are similar. I was under a old Nissan Terrano not long ago and it is almost identical to the Mitsubishi L200 also...
I actually just searched “Hyundai Galloper” into google and found this: “Galloper is an SUV, built by Hyundai Precision & Ind. ... It was a rebadged and restyled updated first generation of the Japanese original Mitsubishi Pajero 4X4 offroad model” - and I know the Pajero uses the same 4D56 engine.
@@craftycouple8283 Yes that is true. Hyundai calls the engine the D4BH designation though. These engines have a weak spot which is their aluminium cylinder head and to some degree the head gasket. They like to eat cylinder heads, especially when overheating, being driven too hard while cold and pushing the engine too hard going uphill. I would know as I have researched this a fair bit and am going to change the cylinder head on my engine, and do the timing and balancer belt at the same time. Your video is very helpful and I'm grateful that I've accidentally stumbled upon it here on youtube. :)
Very interesting comment! I have seen from forums and Facebook groups people comment that the head has blown or water is bubbling in the radiator (head gasket gone). I’ve heard also many people try to keep the revs under 3000rpm. I’ve put just over 10k miles on mine and have deffo tried my best to keep it under 3k revs. I’ve ever driven from Amsterdam to Bulgaria 3 times, once towing a 2T trailer and it’s still going strong!
I’m glad my vid has helped that’s what I made it for! Please let me know how you get on.
Thanks for the video and nice touch with the background SRV ;) how did you tighten the crank bolt at the end?
It’s been a while, but I think I just put it in gear and then used a breaker bar to tighten the crank pulley. If I did it again I would absolutely check the correct tightening torque…but it hasn’t fallen off yet so must be ok!
@@craftycouple8283 cool, thanks. Not a criticism, just curious as I nearly had to do it that way myself
My L200 (Gen 2, which I this is?) has the 2,6L, need to change the timing belt (its about 100 000km since last time it was replaced, so getting to be about time to do so again).
So I have two questions,
1. Is this the 2,6L? Looking at the servo pump/alternator it looks like mine, but then again the 2,4 and 2,6L may be built pretty much the same, other than volume.
2. How important are the torque specs on the bolts? Maybe dont be too precise on some, but which would you say I need to use torque wrench on and to what torque?
Thanks in advance, this video have given me insight into what procedure!
This is 2.5L 4D56 diesel engine…
Not sure on the torque specs tbh. If you need them you can find the 4D56 workshop manual on the internet and it will tell you on there.
@@craftycouple8283 Not same engine so not sure how much it will help, but thank you for taking the time to answer, I appriciate it! :)
Great video you made it look easy
Great video!
Im about to take off the cylinder head of mine, and this is great!
Glad it helped...I'm interested to know how you get on with taking the head off!
@@craftycouple8283 I'll let you know when I get there.
Will need a complete new head, and maybe more, but need to open it up to have a look first before ordering parts..
Sounds interesting indeed! What happened? Did the belt snap?
@@craftycouple8283 nope.. what we think is that the top cracked.. still need to get the lower wheel off to be able to get the timing belt cover off and start dismantling..
Haven't got time, but hopefully during Christmas break
I’ve heard the crank pulley can be difficult to remove (if that’s what you meant by lower wheel). I’ve read a lot of people snap the bolt! Good luck!
Excellent video. Mine is a Pajero Sport Wagon 4d56t k94. Helped me a lot 👍 thank you
You are very welcome buddy!
Is necessary to mark the new belt? I’d of thought asking as the pulleys are marked you could just put the new belt on? Or am I missing something
No it’s not absolutely necessary. My reasoning was I wanted to be absolutely sure the new belt went on the same way the old belt came off. So I counted the teeth on the belt between the marks on the gears. Possibly OTT.
Gracias por tu aportación
at 4.37 you jumped ahead,how did you get the belts under the wedge of plastic on the cover?
Is yours without air conditioning by the looks of it
Yea, that’s correct
Is cam shaft pulley mark where it should be in 7.08?
el mejor video que he visto , excelente
Good Video my shogan sport 2004 needs th same doing very similar engine I think... could you tell me how long it took from cracking the first bolt...
once again very good video... I want to download it...Thanks
Thanks for you comment.
It’s difficult to say exactly how long it took me because I was filming. However, I would estimate, if I wasn’t filming and taking my time, that it would have taken me a full day. I’m sure now I could do it much faster but this was my first time doing a timing belt and I couldn’t find any videos on how to do it; so I was kind of just taking things as they come.
@@craftycouple8283 that was exactly my problem ..finding a instruction video..machanics are way too expensive... could you tell me ,when you started the engine the rad wasn't on... was there water in the engine ..?
Yes there’s deffo water in the engine and as I found out...water with antifreeze definitely stains concrete! So if you drop the water, have a hose ready to wash it away! Or find a way to drain it properly?
I also just thought if you’re NOT replacing the water pump or the thermostat you can stop most of the water coming out of the engine. When you remove the hoses from radiator you could try and fold them to stop the water coming out. You could then keep the hose folded with a cable tie when you’re working. This way you will save the water from coming out the engine but you will still lose most water out the radiator...
I don't know how your bottom pulley came off so easily haha. Mine is being stubborn and won't move an inch. Do you have any recommendations to get it off?
I can’t remember if I described this method in the video:
Put a socket and ratchet (better to use a bar with 1/2” square drive instead of 1/2” ratchet as ratchet mechanism could be a weak point) on the pulley bolt. Set the bar or ratchet on the cross member directly below the pulley. Make it so it’s touching the bar. Then turn the engine over but only a quick blip on the starter. The engine turns clockwise when looking from the free end so it gives the ratchet the torque needed to slacken the pulley bolt.
Thank u so much for the video. I have the same engine and learnings how to remove the belts myself. Workshops are expensive as hell.
Btw sir i wanna ask, what's the socket size of to open those nuts?
Not sure which nuts you are referring to?
Hi Crafty Couple.
Robbo here just wondered if you could help.when you did your timing belt. What timing mark did you set first camshaft, crankshaft or fuel injector. let me explain a bit more, my cam belt snapped, no damage to rockers, now ready to reinstall belt,s but all timing marks line up except the crankshaft, its two teeth out, rotated it and still two teeth out, then the pressure kicked in and I couldn't rotate it further. looked on the net but very confusing too a amateur like myself, just wondered have you any ideas, thanks in advance. ROBBO.
If the crankshaft sprocket is 2 teeth out could you not just remove the timing belt and turn the sprocket? I think you would have to put the auxy belt pulley back with the bolt. Then use a socket and breaker bar or something similar with good leverage to turn the crankshaft. If you were to do it this way you'd have to make sure the camshaft + fuel pump sprockets stay still (clamp them or mark them so you see if they've moved). OR you could turn the engine by putting it in 5th gear and turning the propshaft by hand (where it comes out of the gearbox) - this would negate the need to put the aux belt pulley back on the crankshaft. You'd need someone to watch for the mark lining up and remember there's a gearbox in the way so it may take a good few turns of the prop shaft to get the 2 teeth back into place.
I have the workshop manual with a good explanation how to set it up properly against the timing marks...If you would like it then e-mail me @ david-bulley@hotmail.com
Excellent video sir!!!👍👍
Well done - Great tutorial
Good job Well done Advice do not use hands to bang ratchet you will end up damaging Nerves and tendons in thumb Speak from experience Cheers
Great job!🙏
If the water pump wasn't working correctly would it prevent the engine starting
No, if the cooling water is cold then it wouldn’t make a difference. If the water pump is broken and you try to run the engine for some time you would overheat the engine and it could cause a lot of problems...engines need air, fuel (the correct amount and at the correct time) and heat to work...so air: needs unclogged air filter, working turbo/intercooler (intercooler not working makes air hotter and shortens life of inlet/exhaust valves), fuel: needs working fuel pump, working injectors, injectors injecting fuel at correct time (correct position of timing gears in relation to each other: crankshaft gear, camshaft gear, fuel pump gear), heat: not losing compression with bad piston rings, bad cylinder liners or valves not sealing correctly on their seats. Those are just some of possible reasons for engine not starting I thought of from the top of my head.
@@craftycouple8283 thanks for the info 👍
Hey mate does the engine already has the timing marks on it?
There are marks on the casing and some on the pulleys, but I found it easier to use a paint marker on a tooth of the pulleys and against somewhere more convenient...
@@craftycouple8283 Thanks mate. I will be doing it soon. Subscribed awaiting for more videos
Awesome. I have brakes to sort next, hopefully do a vid on that! Eventually I want to take the tub off (because it’s rotten underneath), make a high sided tub and spray it all in raptor paint (I’ve done the wings and it looks amazing). Also, I’d like make a metal winch bumper. Did some off roading yesterday but didn’t film...thanks for the sub and let me know how you get on with changing the belts!
@@craftycouple8283 Thanks mate. I had an issue with brakes jammed sliders stuck brake piston i took care of that. My tub is made out of fibre lol it saves me from rust and all. Very interested in the painting plus winch bumper. Eagerly awaiting. Found you from l200 group Facebook. Continue the good work.
How easy did the crank bolt come out? Would a impact gun remove it
Crank bolt would come out with a strong impact gun.
Is this the 4d56 2.5 disel engine?
Yes it is.
Thank you for help!!😊😊
No problem 😊
It it okay to remove the balancer belt?
Yes it’s fine, just make sure to mark the balance shaft so it goes back in the same position when the new belt is replaced.
@@craftycouple8283 Thank you, I can't install my balancer belt i have a damaged balancer shaft, I canf afford to overhaul the whole engine to fix it :D, im worried about the effects in the long run without balancer belt.
Without the balance shaft and belt counterbalancing the engines vibrations you will destroy the engine. The engines vibrations would prematurely wear out bearings unfortunately.
@@craftycouple8283 I hope it can last at least years more, so i can Save up for the costly repair :D
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
how much were the parts cost wise ?
Approximately £120/$150
Hello, I have recently changed my radiator, thermostat, water pump and completely flushed the system. I have this issue where my lower radiator hose doesn’t get hot. But the top hose is boiling and the car over heats. Does anyone have any recommendations? Greatly appreciate. 👍
Some of my ideas:
Try taking out thermostat, put in boiling or very hot water and see if the valve moves. If not movement then thermostat defective.
Try putting old thermostat back as is easy and fast to do.
Thank you 🙏
Muy buen video, y he visto varios
Do you have a video on removing the turbo ? tks
Sorry I don’t. I do videos as and when I do work on my L200. If the need ever arises I will be sure to make a video.
correa distribuición al reves, se debe respetar flecha de giro
Bonjour, vous faites comment pour bloquer le moteur pour serrer la poulie damper à 180nm?
Put the car in gear, put the handbrake on, chock the wheels and you should be able to torque it properly
hello. i changed timing belt but i didnt aligned oil pump. does it really have timing? regards.
No it doesn’t need to be timed.
That’s not the oil pump! There’s two balance shafts one on the left and one the right both have to be timed using the timing marks on the pulleys and casing. The oil pump is driven by a gear directly off the crankshaft.
@@dionbetts6689 thank you for information.
La marca del eje levas la lleva en la carcaza de distribución. No es la que inventaste en forma vertical 👍🏻
The camshaft marking is on the timing case. It is not the one you invented vertically
Yea I realise this now, but if you replace the belt and the timing doesn’t move it still works just as well, as proved by this video 👍🏼
@@craftycouple8283 aún tienes ese vehículo?
Yes I still have it and use it daily.
Me ayudas? Necesito hacerte unas preguntas
I can try to help you. It would help me if you wrote in English.
Thank you
Hi invest in a air ratchet it will make life a lot easier
Right now I don’t have a garage for a compressor or anything like that. I’m pretty much carrying tools in and out the house. Definitely when I get a dedicated workshop I’ll invest in air tools!
Hi once again, just ha another look at your video, and noticed your camshaft and crankshaft timing marks a in a different place too mine, same engine 4d56 but mines a shogun, even more confused now . ha ha ha...
Good lad
Cheers mate
Gostei
Cuanto vale
Parts: €150 approximately
Vas kebrar la manguera
Incorrect