External Power for the R5C - EOS R5C Tip 5
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- In this video, I’m taking a fairly comprehensive look at external power options for the EOS R5 - from USB-PD to Cinema Style batteries and everything in between. I’ll also cover what I settled on using for my camera.
Links for mentioned products (affiliate links have a $):
★ - Poyiccot 1’ USB Cable ($) - amzn.to/3p4wwDb
★ - Camvate Multi-Function Mounting Plate/Cheese Plate ($) - amzn.to/3defXSo
★ - Tether Tools ONsite D-Tap to USB-PD Adapter - bit.ly/3zH7pLq
★ - Rencher Industries 90W USB-C PD Battery Adapter - bit.ly/3BOBwDi
★ - SmallRig VB50 min V Mount Battery - bit.ly/3BNXQwP
★ - Anker 747 Kit / PowerCore III Elite 26K 87W ($) - amzn.to/3yNHqTK
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Gear I Use to Make Videos
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(Affiliate links)
⯈ Canon EOS R5 - amzn.to/3uJNNVI
⯈ Canon EOS R5C -
⯈ Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM - amzn.to/37SuLDw
⯈ Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM - amzn.to/3Oi7YBO
⯈ Canon RF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM - amzn.to/3M9I0yQ
⯈ Rode NTG2
⯈ Rode Wireless Go
⯈ Zoom F6 - amzn.to/2TWsSvo
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Chapters
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00:00 Intro
01:14 What is safe and required?
06:17 Connecting the Camera and Battery
06:23 Using USB-PD to Power the Camera
08:33 Using a DC Coupler to Power the Camera
13:40 Choosing a Battery System
14:36 USB-PD Batteries
17:19 Camera/Cinema Batteries
17:34 NP-F Style Batteries
20:05 Cinema Batteries
28:54 What I Did - Навчання та стиль
So glad you've shared your insights and research, it's saved me a ton of time and headaches (wish I had found them sooner).
Thank you. I just purchased this camera and the Ankor PowerCore ||| elite 26K 87W. I purchased because I will be shooting underwater and the housing I purchased has a slot for the power bank. I do see most people recommended the 45W version, but you made me feel safe to use the higher W
Thank you soooo much for maling these thoroughly documented welll explained videos.
I have to say this is the ONLY proper made “how to power your R5c” video out there! (Canon ought to pay you! IMHO)
Thank you for helping us all. ❤️🙏
Great Video, I'm only in the early stages with the r5 c , but external power is what i will need eventually! I subscribed so I can find this video again when i need to! thanks for sharing
Wow!! Explica las cosas muy bien!!! Ya guarde el video para consultas
wow you are thorough! Thank you for a very informative and useful video :-)
Very helpful. Thank you!
Wonderful content man. I was scratching my head when connecting a vlock to the camera over USB C. Not realising the battery in the body was flat hence why I got no boot up
Well done.
Thanks Jason, great insight into powering the R5c which I just bought. Just a quick question, I have a ‘power junkie’ npf battery adaptor with a few usb outs. It’s made by Blind Spot. Do you think that mounted on the hot shoe and tapped into the camera, will work? Hugh
It should work with a dummy battery. But you will have the power limitations if you want to shoot at 8k60 FPS. If 8k60 isn't a consideration, then it should be fine.
Yeah, I have it it'll work fine. The barrel output to the camera is just like a battery inside the cam. Gives those two usbs and you can use a beefy npf. The other guy is right you cant get 8k60 any other way but USB pd
Thank you very much for the report. It is a very comprehensive report.
I would like to ask you a question and it would help me a lot if you could be so kind as to answer:
I have bought an EOS R5C camera and I need an external power supply to record in 8K and 60 fps. I have looked for the Anker 474 Power Bank but I can't find it in Spain. I have seen the option of the Anker PowerCore III Elite 25600 PD.
Do you think that this power supply is enough to power the camera in a safe way?
Thank you very much!
That should be the same battery pack.
Anker seems to have renamed their product lines (or just the kit/sets, I'm not completely sure). The battery that came in my 747 kit is labeled "PowerCore III Elite 26K 87W".
Hello there! Thanks for such an informative video 🙏 Could you confirm what cables you’re using to power your R5C and SmallHD monitor with the Anker 747? I have almost the same kit: An R5C camera, Anker 747 power bank, Atomos Shinobi monitor. The Anker 747 does power the camera all the way to 8K60 w RF lens, but when I connect the Shinobi monitor through a BlindSpot Power Pipe USBC to 12V DC cable, the Anker 747 no longer supplies enough power for Power Delivery to stay on, on the R5C-and the internal battery begins to drain quickly. One more question, do you get 8K 60p w lens autofocus AND power for your external monitor from the Anker 747? Thank you. It’s been such a bumpy ride trying to power this camera kit.
The cable I'm using for the R5C is listed in the description - it's the Poyiccot 1’ USB Cable.
I'm using an older BlindSpot Gear power pipe (8.2V output). Blind Spot Gear says you must use a 12V supply, but that's not completely true. It runs fine from a 5/9/15/20V USB-PD supply, it just doesn't supply the full voltage (6.5v instead of 8.4V), which the Small HD display doesn't care about.
The important part is where you plug things into the Anker 747 battery. The camera has to go on the outer USB-C port. When there's multiple USB-PD devices attached, the outer port will continue to supply 45W while the inner port's output gets throttled to only 18W. The camera needs a 27W supply to operate off USB-C, so the outer port satisfies that when both ports are in use.
As long as the camera says USB-PD in the upper right corner of the screen, it's running on USB power, if it drops to battery that changes to the estimated battery time remaining.
Great Great Video... Thank you
My fifth time watching this and just saw the cool timelapse of the plane! Around 22:30
Great video. Thanks so much for the information. Quick question for you. I am unable to change recording modes when I have the USBPD plugged in. The menus are grayed out. Any reason you know of? If I unplug and go internal battery it works as normal.
I've never seen that one before. On my R5C I can change between any of the recording modes whether the camera is on USB-PD or the internal battery. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen the rec mode setting grayed out ever.
I'm at a loss on that one. The only things I can think of to troubleshoot that one are to make sure you're running the latest firmware and if so reset the camera's settings to factory defaults (system settings -> reset).
Thanks for all the useful insights, Jason! I did make the mistake of connecting the D-tap port on the FXLION Nano One to the R5C via an unregulated dummy adapter 😬 It didn't fry my camera but it did seem to lead to horizontal lines in the image (similar to the lines you see when your shutter speed doesn't match the light source's frequency). After seeing your video it looks like I fed the camera way more power than it was designed to handle (or am I missing something here?)... 😬 I stuck to USB-PD afterwards, and the camera is fine.
Thanks for the info on that. Also I'm glad your camera survived just fine.
That said, it's good to know that the camera is at least fairly resilient to moderately high voltages - or at least it won't let the magic smoke out at 14.4 volts. It's quite possible that the camera can handle a fairly wide input voltage range, since everything has to be regulated internally anyway (the processor and sensor are probably operating in the 3.3 volt or lower range), but there's no published specs on what that range is and as you saw going too far can certainly cause problems.
Happy to hear you didn’t fry tha cam. Are you happy with the battery?
@@PointsInFocus Thanks for the additional info! A few years ago I had another dummy-battery 'accident' when I inserted the D-TAP plug the wrong way. There was smoke involved... 😬I think it's safer for everyone if I stick to USB-PD 😉 Thanks for providing us with all of this super-useful and in-depth info!
@@Mintyseden Yeah, the Nano One has really become my swiss army knife on shoots. Even if I'm not shooting with the R5C it's super handy for quickly charging drone-batteries/phone when moving between locations and it can even power my laptop. On the R5C it roughly gives you 3 times the runtime of a single LP-E6 and the size makes it easy to rig it. I have it attached to the bottom of the camera so it doesn't get in the way. Do keep in mind that because of the smaller design it doesn't work with all v-mount plates. The new Smallrig ones do work as do FXLION's own plates.
@Points in Focus, new sub and thanks for doing the heavy lifting.
@Filmkit, oh man, I made the same mistake on my brand new Sony A74. Fried the main
motherboard. Got it for a good deal but after that user error mistake, cost me abt $500 to replace a new motherboard directly from Sony.
The issue was the dummy battery to d-p-tap was not regulated. Bought off Amazon and didn’t realize this. The website didn’t mention any warnings and the V-mount battery I bought from Core SWX didn’t mention it either.
Anyhow my expensive mistake.
I also recently bought the Canon R5C and here are some additional information and options to consider:
- Core SWX recently updated their Powerbase Edge to the PB Edge Link. The upgrades are: 1) It fixed the issue of the mounting plate with a much bigger base so it’s more sturdy and stable; 2) It increased the capacity from 49wh to 70wh; 3) It has a PD port that can power the R5C directly with a USBC cable; 4) you can stack or link to other PB Edge Links for parallel power if needed.
The older model and the new one still has the runtime LCD, travel safe within airline requirements, has vmount adapter, has 1/4” mount hole to attach to tripod or other mounting options, etc.
I’m not affiliated with them but was waiting forever for the Anton Bauer Titon Base and at NAB 2022, this new product was released.
Note on top of the PB Edge Link, I put in the Smallrig Side Handle 2222 with a Neewer QR Plate Adapter. I have Smallrig 3890 cage that mounts onto the Neewer Plate Adapter. It takes away all the hand jitters as the weight is balanced when I film handheld
This can be used to power any camera setup for long hours. And get a second one if you film continuous all day.
- a much cheaper alternative is buying the Smallrig Power Bank Adapter 3085 that uses a powerbank plugged into the USBC input and a dummy battery into the DC port of this adapter. I use Nitecore NB20000 as it’s small and lightweight since it’s made out of carbon fiber but has 20,000mAh
I couldn’t find anywhere how to compare the power consumption in each filming mode but saw on other YT channels that a LP-6NH is 2,130mAh and has a runtime close to an hour (depends on the frame rate and shooting modes) but rough average.
So here’s what I calculated:
1 Wh to mAh conversion:
Wh x 1000/Voltage = mAh
So for 70Wh (assuming 1 LP-6NH = ~1hr):
Using dummy battery with d/p-tap @8V:
70 x 1000 / 8V = 8,750mAh
Runtime: 8,750 / 2,130 = 4.11hrs
Using PD power @9V:
70 x 1000 / 9V = 7,778mAh
Runtime: 7,778 / 2,130 = 3.65hrs
Lastly, here’s what I found on power consumption in different shooting modes and recording times with a LP-6NH:
Power Consumption:
8K RAW 25P: 10.5W
8K MP4 25P: 11.2W
4K HEVC 50P: 12.9W
4K XF-AVC 50P: 13.3W
Recording Time With Supplied LP-E6NH Battery Pack:
8K RAW 25P: 50mins
8K MP4 25P: 45mins
4K HEVC 50P: 40mins
4K XF-AVC 50P: 35mins
I just used my MacBook 145w usb c block and I’m getting PD. From my understanding of what you said, this is safe correct? So far so good. But then I started to second guess the safety of doing this. Is this ok? Thanks for the great videos! I wish you had a c70 series too. You are extremely helpful!
That's perfectly fine. In fact, I use my MBP's charger with my R5C quite often.
First, remember, USB-PD isn't like old DC connections. The device and charger actually communicate over USB about what profiles are available and what the device needs. If you plug the camera into a USB-PD supply that can't provide the right profile, the camera will simply not use the USB port for power at all. This is a big part of why I like USB-PD for camera gear instead of the old approach of a "dumb" DC connector that can have basically any voltage on it.
I have been loving using my fxlion 3 battery through usbc HOWEVER I noticed that now I cant connect any run stop device to the camera since they all connect through usbc so there is one bbig advantage to the coupler which I would love a link to any recommended one but going that route will allow me to connect my camera to my tilta hand grips so I can control the run stop and things when it is on my shoulder or hand held
As far as things currently stand, I'm not aware of any couplers aside from Canon's that properly support the full 8K60 capabilities of the R5C. If you don't need 8K60, then you should be able to get away with most decent quality DC couplers. I personally like ones that have built in voltage regulation, as there's too much of a risk frying the camera otherwise (something like Anton Bauer's P-Tap to LP-E6 cable).
If you want to go USB-C for power but use a coupler, you could try using Canon's DR-E6C DC coupler (which supports 8K60) and a 9V USB-C PD to DC adapter cable (something like this www.adafruit.com/product/5449 from Adafruit, you may also need an adapter for the DC connector). Though I haven't tested this configuration, so it may not work.
Brilliant video!
Would the 537 work? PowerCore+ 26800 PD 45W with 60W PD Charger
According to the specs in the manual, it should work just fine.
Question, I have a SmallRig 50w vmount battery, what type of cables can I use to power my R5 C? I seen people have Type C to Type C. Is that the only way? You cant do USD -> Type C on the camera?
Yes, you need to use a type-c to type-c cable.
The R5 uses the USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) standard which requires that it actively negotiates the power settings with the supply (your SmallRig battery in this case). If you check the specs on that battery, it does not support USB-PD on the Type-A (standard rectangular USB port) so even if you used a Type-A to Type-C cable, the camera wouldn't be able to negotiate the right settings, and as a result wouldn't use the battery for power.
Unfortunately, the governing body for USB has really made a mess of things over time. Maybe it's just me, but I feel like USB is becoming more confusing as time goes on rather than less.
We have an external FXLION ONE Vmount battery. when we plug it via USB C, the camera display shows "USB-PD" for about 5 seconds then it goes away, and starts using the internal Canon NH battery. We let the internal canon battery drain and wondered if the external would kick in at some point, but it didn't. Im wondering if there is an issue with the USBC port /internals on the camera body? We've tried different cables... in fact the supplied canon cable, when connected, doesn't seem to be detecting the external battery at all (in other words, the camera display won't even show "USB-PD "). I've verified the external battery functions, by using it to power lights, charge phones, etc... so we're confident the battery is functional. Any ideas?
I've seen a few USB-PD capable V-mount batteries that don't work with the R5C for some reason. SmallRig specifically notes this on their batteries. This may also be the case for the FXLION batteries (or some of them as well).
If you have a >30 W USB-PD charger (like the power supply for a MacBook or MacBook Pro), try using that and see if the camera switches to PD mode. If it does, then it's not the port on the camera, it's the battery's PD implementation.
Of course, the whole point of USB-PD is that it should just work, anything that supports the required wattage should be usable. But in practice, it seems like corners are cut at every opportunity and with it compatibility. So much for USB being Universal as the first letter implies.
if I want to use my v lock BV140HD MINI on belt adapter via cable and dummy battery? would that work ? what dummy battery u suggest ? thx
It would, at least subject to the limitations I talked about with dummy battery cables.
Unfortunately, I don't have enough experience (and I'm not likely to get any anytime soon) with enough dummy batteries to be able to make any recommendations.
What I can say is that if you want to plug directly into the D-tap port on your battery, you'll need one that includes voltage regulation. Also, I wouldn't cheap out on this. You can find tons of generic ones on Amazon, but I'd stick to a well known brand.
@@PointsInFocus thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you so so much for all the info! Really saved us!
Since I can't buy anker 747 because of the lithium battery shipping restrictions (I live in Croatia and they don't have those batteries here), I was wondering if you can tell me if anker 737 is an okay replacement for 747?
Thank you so much in advance! :)
The 737 should work fine. If it's the current one that matches what you see on Anker's site (with the PowerCore 24K), then its probably a bit better than the older 747 that I'm recommending in this video. I think there was also an older version of the 737, that looked like the 747 but had one fewer ports, that would also work as well.
@@PointsInFocus thank you so much for such a fast response! I also found the ANKER PowerCore III Elite 25K, 25600mAh, 87W, PowerIQ, QC 3.0 and with everything I learned watching your video, I believe this one may work as well. It charges 3A 5V, so charging may be a little bit slower. The design is not that chunky and I can mount it on my cage.
Thank you again, you're a life saver :)
Basically as long as the charger says it can charge at 30W or more, you should be good. Anything that says it can charge a laptop is probably a safe bet.
The R5C requires 3A at 9V (27W), to operate (powered on and record), and 3A at 5V (15W) to charge (powered off). The charger must supply those profiles specifically. The way USB-PD is supposed to work is that you can look at the listed charging wattage (say 45W) and if it's higher than the wattage of the required profile (e.g. 9V * 3A = 27W for powering the R5C while recording) then the charger is supposed to provide the required power profile for your device. Unfortunately, this seems to have made the situation more confusing for everyone rather than simpler.
Also, if you're looking for a more compact solution. You might want to look at SmallRig's Advanced NP-F battery plate (I think that's the name but their site is down for me at the moment so I can't check). You use it with an NP-F 700 or 900 series batteries and it provides the required USB-PD outputs for the R5C. I've switched to using one of these most of the time due to the size and weight.
I get about 2-3 hours out of a NP-F 700 series battery, and of course, when the battery dies the camera seamlessly transitions to it's internal battery, and you can swap the NP-F battery and it switches seamlessly back.
@@PointsInFocus that sound great also! I will look into the NP-F then and see what works best. Thank you so much for the response and such detailed explanation!
FWIW, the Small Rig part number for the NP-F battery plate is 3168B.
Man that thing likes juice! FXLION Nano one lasts as long as a far in the wind. Just got the Moman 99. Lets see how that goes.
Can I use a Mac Book pro charger? My power source is 140W, Is this safer? I need to record 5hs continuously in a recital music. Best regards! Great channel!
I've testesd the 96W MBP charger that comes with the 14" 2021 M1 MBPs and it works fine. The 140W version shouldn't be any different.
@@PointsInFocus Thanks!!!
will an external power bank suffice to record 8K 60p in RAW? Thank you for your help
Yes, it will.
Im here to say I fried 2 r5c's via d-tap! I wish I would have seen this video prior.
Ouch. I'm sorry to hear that.
Im not sure what I am doing wrong - i've put a battery in the camera and plugged in a USBC cable from both mains and a power bank (used to power BMPC4K) and it doesn't seem to do anything!?
If the camera is on, and in video mode, it will display USB PD in the upper right corner of the screen instead of the remaining battery time. That's the only indication that it's running off of USB-PD.
If it's off, and you have a LP-E6N or LP-E6NH battery, there will be a charge icon on the top display (or full if the battery is charged). Only LP-E6N and LP-E6NH batteries can be charged in the camera this way, and you'll probably have to stick to Canon first party ones at that.
If you're not seeing any of that, check that your USB power supplies support USB-PD and can provide 3A at 9V (27 watts). It's capabilities should be listed in the fine print somewhere on the charger or battery pack. If they can, try a different USB-C cable.
@@PointsInFocus thank you for the detailed response. Appreciate it!
Found out the hard way. Did not know the R5C only needed a 9V dummy battery. Plug a 12-14V dummy battery and damage the circuit. Camera refused to come on. Had to send the camera to Canon Service Center in Virginia. Luckily it was under warranty so they fixed it otherwise it would have cost me $530 to repair.
Ouch, that sucks.
That's easily the biggest reason I don't like using a dummy battery with the R5C. The camera doesn't have the internal voltage regulation to deal with the ~16V you get out of cine batteries. So you've always got the risk of frying something if you're not careful with the battery you're using.
Is the Anker 747 also compatible with the R5 and R6? Thanks
Would the Anker 537 do the job for the R5 and R6 - it has a 45 Watt PD port so I'm guessing it would supply enough power to charge and use the camera? Thanks again. Great video by the way.
Yep, the 537 should work fine.
As for the R5 and R6, anything that can power the R5C can power the any of Canon's current mirrorless cameras that use USB-PD. So the R5 and R6 will work fine with either the 747 or 537.
@@PointsInFocus Thank you very much. Very useful channel, keep it up. I've subscribed.
im using Nano One battery but getting no power to camera...do I have to have the battery in as well?
If you're connecting to the Nano One with USB-C then yes, you have to have a battery in the camera for it to power up and negotiate the right USB-PD voltages.
@@PointsInFocus thx.. ! Only thing I don’t like about that battery is the display doesn’t stay on
I do not understand why Canon can't make a new battery that identifies itself the same way the new dummy battery does and provides the same power.
Maybe the runtime just would not be practical
Run time would certainly be a problem. The LP-E6 form factor is only physically big enough for around 16-watt-hours of capacity. More modern battery chemistries might bump that up a few watt-hours, but it's not going to double it, or more. So you're still talking about ~30 min at the highest loads. At which point, that's a lot of effort going into something that addresses a niche case - and lets be honest, 8K60 is a niche case.
The bigger problem, or potential problem, would is heat and safety. When you pull a lot of current form a battery it gets hot. In something like a Tesla car, the batteries have water cooling to keep them from overheating and catching fire in normal use. The batteries are fundamentally the same (different form factor and packaging, but they're both Lithium Ion technology). The same thing happens in consumer electronics, only instead of water cooling the battery packs, the power output is limited to something that wont cause wear, damage, or excessive heating.
Im under the impression it’s a software issue why they batteries don’t last long. Or more specific the camera shuts off with 40% battery left. Hoping a firmware helps some.
@@DavidKfilmmaker Firmware might impact the battery life but there simply is not enough voltage in 8K 60 to power autofocus lenses.