Відео

On the GoPro front, I expect that unless something major changes in the next 3 or 4 years, I won't be using GoPros when I get around to the next upgrade cycle for them. However, for the moment, I don't really want to throw more good money away after bad. Even if I sell them, I won't get their purchase price back and that's not going to cover the costs of the Osmos to replace them. So since they're a low use low priority item, they can get rarely used and I can deal with them failing if they do.

That's also an awesome range to use. In some cases even better than the 100-500 I like.

Just out of curiosity, is your camera set to do long exposure noise reduction? On Canon and Nikon cameras, this is just dark frame subtraction, and it little more than doubles the exposure time for every shot (e.g. 10" with the shutter open, 10" with the shutter close for the dark frame). If that's enabled, then you'll either need to extend the slide interval or turn off the long exposure NR. Beyond that, the only think you can do is extend the slide interval to insure there's enough time between shots. Unfortunately, this is one of those places where it would be really nice if the cameras and external devices could actually talk to each other intelligently. As things stand, the slider can't know if the camera is done or not, and so it just moves and simulates pressing the shutter release, and just hopes for the best.

For now, that's a question you'd have to ask the folks at Netflix. I'm hoping to dig into the image quality situation with raw on the R5C in the coming months, but try as I might I haven't gotten there yet.

I haven't seen any problems personally. That said, at least when shooting video, I know the IS system can make things look a bit wonky at times in parts of the image; especially at the wide end, and at the edges of the frame. It's possible that a similar problem could be rearing its head and combined with a longish shutter speed (1/30 or 1/60th and slower) while shooting stills could result in a similar effect when shooting a still. That said, aside form the breathing tests I haven't really dug into any other image quality aspects with this lens.

@@PointsInFocus Do you have any plans on doing so? Testing lenses image quality wise? It seems to me that you dig way deeper into al kinds of technical aspects / issues than any other photographer. And Field Curvature / PointsInFocus do correlate nicely in my opinion 😉. The 15-35 could be a great start 😉💪🏻

I'd like to, but I have a pile of stuff on my plate as it is. Right now, I don't have any concrete plans to do a whole lot of digging into lens performance in the immediate future.

For an MC lens (I assume you're talking about a Minolta MC lens), you'll need an MC to RF adapter, not an FD to RF adapter. The MC mount is different from the FD mount.

Sorry, but audio is something that I'm not even remotely qualified to give advice on. I barely know what I'm doing for my own videos, never mind trying to tell someone how they should setup their audio.

No, the camera and phone have to be together all the time for the smartphone GPS to work. In fact, I've had problems keeping the camera and phone synced even when they're both with me sometimes. To be honest, there's no real good solution to geotagging on anything other than the R3 right now. The GP-E2 external model is somewhat clunky (goes in the hot shoe), though it does have an electronic compass. The smartphone system is very hit and miss in my experience. In many respects, nothing on the R5/R6 really works as well as the build in GPS that I had in my 5D4 (or you have in the R3).

Unfortunately, no. The focus shift is a result of stopping down the aperture. Whether you focused the lens manually or using the AF system, currently Canon only allows you to do so with the aperture at it's widest setting (except when shooting video). As a result, even if you're manually focusing, you'll still have the focus shift problem.

Well, that’s unfortunate. Sounds like I need to look at Laowa. Thanks for the quick response!

On the plus side, the Laowas have higher magnification (2x instead of 1.4x) and costs less than half as much. And if you're shooting with a RF camera with IBIS, you get stabilization from that, though not quite as much as you'd get with the hybrid IS with the Canon. I've been looking at the 100/2.8 or the 90/2.8, I just haven't had the need to pull the trigger one yet.

Or just continue to use my RF 100-500 for macro(ish) photography.

Another option might be a set of RF mount extension tubes, and just use a regular mid-range RF lens. I do something similar to you with the big telephoto. I sold my old macro lens (Sigma 150/2.8) when I got my EF 100-400 mk II. It's great for bugs, and flowers and the like since you have a ton of working distance. However, I'm starting a new channel soon that's focused on model trains and model building, and shooting that kind of stuff with a 100-500 isn't really practical. So I've been trying to decide between continuing to use my EF extension tubes, buy a set of RF extension tubes, or buy an RF macro lens. Unfortunately, the RF extension tubes seem to be close to half of the cost of the Laowa macro lenses.

Unfortunately, not that I know of. Though to be honest, there really should be some metadata for that or something.

So the reason I said that breathing isn't a problem for stills is because you don't have the time component as you have in video, and the change in angle of view doesn't become a distraction. For the most people, the vast majority of still photographers I've meat have no idea that their 70mm lens isn't 70mm at any given focus distance. Also, while you're talking about primes, it's not a primes versus zooms thing. It's a design of the focusing system thing; specifically internal/rear versus overall linear extending. Different designs will behave differently, even within the same overall class of focusing system. Notice the 28-70/2L's AoV widens as you focus closer, but the 24-70/2.8L's doesn't, it get's narrower (though only slightly). Moreover, while the video isn't live yet (it's coming I think next week), the RF 15-35/2.8L IS USM does both depending on the zoom position. As for the telephoto question... I'd like to look into it, but I only have access to a limited amount of glass. I'd love to test more, but that means getting it, and I'm no where near big enough in the photography "influencer" space that anybody would be willing to send me random lenses to test. So I can test what I can, but that's not the most exhaustive list. That said, I am working on cleaning up the code I used for this and making it available to anyone who wants to run it. So that might get some more data points for stuff I can't actually test myself.

As far as my understanding of optics go, that assumption is valid. All lenses that extend when breathing will do so in the same way (AoV will narrow) and if they're the same focal length, should have very similar changes in percentage. Experimentally, I've seen this with the 3 extending primes I've tested, Canon's FD 50mm f/1.8, EF 50mm f/1.8 STM and EF 40mm f/2.8 STM. Though I'd love to have more data points to add to that list.

I'll take that into consideration for the future For reference, 10**0 feet/meters is 1 foot/meter, 10**1 is 10 feet/meters, 10**2 is 100 feet/meters.

I shoot all my a-roll footage on an R5C in 1080p full frame in c.log 3, saved with 10-bit 4:2:0 HEVC. Though I intercut with footage from my R5 shot full frame, 1080p, 10-bit HEVC (c.log 3). Truthfully, at 1080p I don't find much of a difference between the two cameras, even though the R5C is down-sampling from 8K and the R5 is downsampling it's 1080p from line skipped 4K. That said, I shoot 1080p largely to save space, as I don't think anything in these videos really warrants stepping up to 4K.

Just to be clear, there is no EF version of this lens. This video is on the RF 28-70mm f/2L USM, not the 24-70mm f/2.8L IS USM. The f/2.8 version will be coming next week, and it performs a lot better than the 28-70 does (spoiler, breathing is functionally not an issue). The RF 24-105mm f/2.8L IS USM from the tests I've seen breathes a lot, not quite on par with this 28-70, but much more than the 24-70/2.8. However, I haven't seen a test that graphs it out like I have, so I don't know if it's a problem that only shows up when focusing from MFD to infinity or if it's still fairly strong at normal working distances. I'd like to test a 24-105/2.8, because nobody else is testing the lenses in this fashion, but I couldn't get my hands on one when they were first released, and haven't really had the urge to get one since then. I'm also half tempted to get a 35/1.4L. I try to shoot these videos at about 35mm, and that would be a very nice lens for that purpose. Plus I can see some other uses for it like night landscapes and astrophotography.

First time I'm hearing about the peeling, are you serious 😲?

@MrWiseinheart, I've had my 28-70/2 in use for over a year, and there's no indication fo coatings failing or peeling off on my lens. This is also the first time I've heard of a problem as well. While I wouldn't be surprised that there were isolated failures, or failures with abused lenses that people claim weren't abused. However, if there was a wide spread problem, even if it was only limited to a small serial number range, I would have expected a service advisory or partial recall on the lens which certainly hasn't happened.

@@PointsInFocus ok thanks for that, good to know 👍. I have the lens as well so was kind of worried.

First, double check that the movie rotation info setting is enabled. It's not the same setting as described in this video for stills, though it is on the same menu page (Set Up 1). Additionally, this setting is saved as part of the custom user modes (C1-C3), so if you use those, you'll need to make sure it's enabled in all of them as well. Additionally, make sure you're not recording in RAW or RAW+MP4. For whatever reason the camera cannot add the rotation information when those formats are used. Second, if the setting is enabled, make sure that you see the rotation indicator icon (a camera with an arrow pointing up) at the top center of the info overlays on the live image. You may need to hit the info button to step through the various screens until you get to the one that has all the information displayed. If that's displayed, to rule out a problem with the camera hardware, make sure it changes when you rotate the camera. That is, if you hold the camera with the grip up, the indicator arrow should point towards the grip. If the icon doesn't change, it's possible that the accelerometers in the camera that determine the orientation have failed somehow, and the camera will need to be repaired. If the icon does change and you're only shooting in MP4 format, then the orientation information is stored as metadata in each file. You can verify that it's being recorded properly by using a program like Exiftool, MediaInfo, or some media players (like MPC-HC) to read the metadata. You're looking for the "Rotation" tag on the video section. Unfortunately, this doesn't appear to be in the Window's file properties or MacOS info dialogs. If it's showing up properly in the files, then the problem is likely that your media player/NLE isn't rotating the video using that tag. In which case, you'll need to check with the player/NLE's support/documentation to see if that tag is supported.

@@PointsInFocus all settings are fine but i am noticing when i set my CP3 to info enabled, and i try recording, it is still previewing the file as horizontal. then when i back out of that mode, it reverts back to disabled when i go back into it. everything was fine until 2 weeks ago when i got a RS4 gimbal. i donno if that caused an issue or not but now, even when i have the camera with an arrow on top, it shows the video as horizontal. its not an issue when editing, its a simple click but still annoying. 2 years ago i had this issue but when i pressed enable, it fixed it until last week haha i updated the firmware to 2.0.0 as well. i donno what happened all of a sudden

From what you're describing here, it sounds like the video rotation setting isn't enabled in the C3 custom shooting mode that you're using. And for some reason, when you enabled it, it's getting reset before you actually get to shooting. Do you have custom modes set to auto update? (Set up5 → custom shooting modes → auto update set.). If that's set to disabled, then you'll need to manually update the C3 mode to include the video rotation setting. When in the C3 mode, go into the menus, enable the video rotation setting, then go to the custom shooting modes menu, and use the register settings entry to update the C3 mode. One other thing, the C1-C3 settings are saved separately for photo and video modes; which is confusing. If you set the video rotation in C3 in photo mode, it won't be changed in C3 in movie mode. I don't think either the gimbal or the firmware had anything to do with this. I'm running firmware 2.0.0 and my camera rotates the videos properly.

@@PointsInFocus i set the video rotation on every mode in the camera. i reset the camera few times and then did it again and still no change. it would make sense if it happened after i changed a setting but it randomly started doing this. im going to connect the gimbal again and see if , while connected to gimbal via wire, if i enable the setting, maybe it'll work?

It's worth a try, and it can't hurt anything. Plus I'm out of ideas otherwise so... What media player/NLE are you using to playback the footage on your computer? The camera never rotates the video on the playback so you'd never know there. But I'm wondering if it's writing the metadata out correctly and it's not being picked up on your computer for some reason.

Unfortunately, no. It doesn't look like it.

The 737 should work fine. If it's the current one that matches what you see on Anker's site (with the PowerCore 24K), then its probably a bit better than the older 747 that I'm recommending in this video. I think there was also an older version of the 737, that looked like the 747 but had one fewer ports, that would also work as well.

@@PointsInFocus thank you so much for such a fast response! I also found the ANKER PowerCore III Elite 25K, 25600mAh, 87W, PowerIQ, QC 3.0 and with everything I learned watching your video, I believe this one may work as well. It charges 3A 5V, so charging may be a little bit slower. The design is not that chunky and I can mount it on my cage. Thank you again, you're a life saver :)

Basically as long as the charger says it can charge at 30W or more, you should be good. Anything that says it can charge a laptop is probably a safe bet. The R5C requires 3A at 9V (27W), to operate (powered on and record), and 3A at 5V (15W) to charge (powered off). The charger must supply those profiles specifically. The way USB-PD is supposed to work is that you can look at the listed charging wattage (say 45W) and if it's higher than the wattage of the required profile (e.g. 9V * 3A = 27W for powering the R5C while recording) then the charger is supposed to provide the required power profile for your device. Unfortunately, this seems to have made the situation more confusing for everyone rather than simpler. Also, if you're looking for a more compact solution. You might want to look at SmallRig's Advanced NP-F battery plate (I think that's the name but their site is down for me at the moment so I can't check). You use it with an NP-F 700 or 900 series batteries and it provides the required USB-PD outputs for the R5C. I've switched to using one of these most of the time due to the size and weight. I get about 2-3 hours out of a NP-F 700 series battery, and of course, when the battery dies the camera seamlessly transitions to it's internal battery, and you can swap the NP-F battery and it switches seamlessly back.

@@PointsInFocus that sound great also! I will look into the NP-F then and see what works best. Thank you so much for the response and such detailed explanation!

FWIW, the Small Rig part number for the NP-F battery plate is 3168B.

It happens. Fortunately I didn't get sick until the last day of the cruise, and that was at see, so it's not like I missed any of the ports, views, or excursions.

@@PointsInFocus That's a better case, I agree. Wish you a great day and thanks so much for all your beautiful videos, Jason! 😀I learned so much about the R5C camera thanks to you! ✨🙋🏻‍♂

It appears that the sound recording options are on the first page of the shoot menu section in your camera. That said, you have to be in movie mode (the power switch has to be set to movie), and you may need to be in M, Av, Tv, or P modes, or at least not in full auto [A+] for the menu to be displayed.

It's on my to do list as part of a much bigger dive iinto video formats, options, and so on. Unfortunately, it has also proven to be a much more difficult topic to cover concisely and completely and that's why it's taking longer to get to than I had hoped.

Until recently for technical reasons, global shutters have had at least a stop less dynamic range for the same pixel architecture compared to a rolling shutter. That said, even with modern tech there is still a performance gap. Sony's A9 III has a global shutter and the dynamic range is lower than the A9 III, A7 III and Canon's R3. In the worst case, at ISO 125, the A9-3 has 0.8-1.3 stops worse dynamic range than the R3 and A7 III. On top of that, what this is specific to the camera, the A9 III's base ISO range is 250-51200, and the lowest it goes is 125. While all of the rolling shutter competitors typically have a base ISO range that starts at ISO 100, and a expanded range that drops down to ISO 50. The other major problem is getting the data off the sensor. For video cameras, this is less of an issue as they often comparatively low resolution sensors to start with (the C700GS had an 8MP sensor). For still cameras, especially ones with high resolutions, it necessitates high bandwidth interconnects or some kind of on chip buffering arrangement. Stacked sensors architectures solve the bandwidth, but they also cost more to manufacture as well. So in short, global shutters have comes cost and image quality limitations, and that has to be balanced against what the market demands, needs, and is willing to pay for. The truth is, if you weren't complaining about the rotary disk shutter in your film cinema camera, or the mechanical shutter in your DSLR, then a fast rolling shutter (on the order of 2-3ms) is going to render pictures the same as what you're use to. See the Z9 and the R3. One thing that I always have to underscore here these cameras are not a big market. Apple and Samsung individually make more smartphones in a month than all the camera manufactures combined make cameras is a year. We're talking about companies that individually are quite a lot smaller than many photographers imagine and as a result, they have fewer engineers working on thins, and things take longer to make their way through the design pipeline. Moreover, there aren't the same kinds of economies of scale. For starters, Moore's law doesn't apply to camera sensors at all. Sensors are fixed area devices, and so finer manufacturing processes don't help, you don't get more parts per wafer, and therefore cheaper parts. On top of that, the total number of sensors made in a year is low, which means the fixed engineering and R&D costs aren't amortized over a lot of parts, and that drives up the costs as well. The short of it, is that the camera companies are walking a fine line between tech that really makes cameras work, and cameras that are too expensive for anyone to buy because of it.

For 12 hours of continuous shooting, you're looking at a battery in the 200 watt-hour (Wh) range. The max draw from the R5C is 15W, times that by 12 hours and you end up with 180 Watt-hours. But you want a battery that's bigger than that so you don't have to rely on completely discharging it. Anything with that much capacity, that also supports USB-C and USB-PD, should have no problem meeting the R5/R5C's requirements. If you're using USB-PD, the only think you're looking or is 27 Watts (W) or 3 amps (A) at 9 volts (V); the camera requires that specific power profile to work. That said, one thing to be aware of is that batteries larger than 100 Wh are prohibited on airlines. Because of that, and the fact that I don't need to power huge lights off batteries, I don't own anything bigger than a 100Wh Anker USB power bank. So I can't make any specific recommendations from personal experience on that front. That said, I'd suggest taking a look at SmallRIg's VB212. Though I've never used one, so I can't speak from personal experience. Hope that helps.

Thank you so much. Glad you found the video useful.

What you're describing sounds to me like a practical light that's misbehaving. 1 frame every couple of seconds is not the kind of thing I would expect to see from normal AC flicker.