Once again big thanks. I was able to fill in a door panel today that my upholstery shop accidentally drilled through. I didn't have any plastic for the backing so I used a two-part epoxy and put tape over the hole in the front and just filled it in from the back. Once it dried I used gel glue like you did on the steering wheel plug. And then plastic primer crosslinker little bit of Matte clear and dye. Worked out pretty nicely. The texture wasn't perfect but it sure was better than a hole.
Great, Andres. Just keep in mind that whenever you can weld the plastic you will get a longer lasting fix that you don't have to worry about. Epoxies and glues are more apt to break free on impact or even road vibration. Thanks for joining in.
@@Dre_day82 wouldn't happen to like in Ohio im looking to purchase a door panel from pull a part junk yard but it has a small puncture whole I'm hesitant on buying it because of the hole but it looks way better than my door and I'm not good at repairs lol
Question. For the texture did I hear you say you used plastic primer for a base coat? Is the pebble texture just dye? Or is it plastic primer also? I run into texture issues a lot.
I second Andres question.. Did you say you use plastic primer for the texture?I use W-2 and It is very shiny and hard to sand. I’m not a huge fan of it .I know you don’t plug products but where can one find this product ? Great repair man....
Yes. Clear Base for leather would be too soft. As are the other spray grains. The clear Plastic Primer is very hard when dried. Too hard sometimes. So in the field we often add some of the leather base to the plastic primer so it's is a bit more flexible and therefore not too brittle. So the pigment gets added to that at about 20 percent. This way the same product is used for texture ( at low psi) as is used for the topcoat (a bit more psi for atomization). Plastic Primer is also shiny so typically I add some flatener right from the start. Hope that helps. Also see the video about the Ford Mustang door panel. #23. Thanks for your input.
Thanks! Yeah a lot of this kind of job comes from body shops, as did this one. Once the insurance adjusters realize you can do "like new" repairs they look to you to save on the claims whenever possible. And the shop is designed with great ventilation so on a small job there aren't fumes to worry about. But thank you!
I sprayed on droplets and it imitated the texture quite well
This was one of the best videos I've seen. You are a genius. Top work 👏 🙏
Once again big thanks. I was able to fill in a door panel today that my upholstery shop accidentally drilled through. I didn't have any plastic for the backing so I used a two-part epoxy and put tape over the hole in the front and just filled it in from the back. Once it dried I used gel glue like you did on the steering wheel plug. And then plastic primer crosslinker little bit of Matte clear and dye. Worked out pretty nicely. The texture wasn't perfect but it sure was better than a hole.
Great, Andres. Just keep in mind that whenever you can weld the plastic you will get a longer lasting fix that you don't have to worry about. Epoxies and glues are more apt to break free on impact or even road vibration. Thanks for joining in.
they accidentally drilled through it and you had to repair it? they should've been the ones to do that boss
Yeah I agree but they keep me on site often to do repairs and redyes. At least they pay well.
@@Dre_day82 wouldn't happen to like in Ohio im looking to purchase a door panel from pull a part junk yard but it has a small puncture whole I'm hesitant on buying it because of the hole but it looks way better than my door and I'm not good at repairs lol
dont forget you can work for window and door guys, you would be surprised how often they drill in the wrong place installing sliding doors
sehr gute Arbeit
Well I actually have a bullet hole, in my car door. Thanks for the videp
stay safe!
I have never seen a bullet hole. That's very scary..
I have come across a few bullet holes in the past.
That's how they make perforated leather 😂😊!
@@a.r.t.srealrepairsforrealc8247 Now that's funny!
Question. For the texture did I hear you say you used plastic primer for a base coat? Is the pebble texture just dye? Or is it plastic primer also? I run into texture issues a lot.
I second Andres question.. Did you say you use plastic primer for the texture?I use W-2 and It is very shiny and hard to sand. I’m not a huge fan of it .I know you don’t plug products but where can one find this product ? Great repair man....
Yes. Clear Base for leather would be too soft. As are the other spray grains. The clear Plastic Primer is very hard when dried. Too hard sometimes. So in the field we often add some of the leather base to the plastic primer so it's is a bit more flexible and therefore not too brittle. So the pigment gets added to that at about 20 percent. This way the same product is used for texture ( at low psi) as is used for the topcoat (a bit more psi for atomization). Plastic Primer is also shiny so typically I add some flatener right from the start. Hope that helps. Also see the video about the Ford Mustang door panel. #23. Thanks for your input.
Wish I could but this man a steak. Thank you for your advice and videos. Makes my life easier.
A.R.T.'s Real Repairs for Real Customers would that be 300-1 flexible primer surfacer ?
@@morganadams7985 This plastic primer is a clear water base polymer. As a rule, the only time I am using a solvent product is for marine application.
A marvel. But, gosh, bullet holes! Don't want to know who your customers are... Do you wear mask not to breathe in the vapors?
Thanks! Yeah a lot of this kind of job comes from body shops, as did this one. Once the insurance adjusters realize you can do "like new" repairs they look to you to save on the claims whenever possible.
And the shop is designed with great ventilation so on a small job there aren't fumes to worry about. But thank you!
I like sushi 🍣 too! 🍊 is for me)
Bullet hole?! You guys are prolly Americans right? 😅