With plastic welding you have to add the same type of plastic that you are working on or it will not stick. This will only work on plastic bumpers that are made of the same plastic as the zip ties. What i have done on bumpers that use different types of plastic is to cut a strip from somewhere that isn’t seen and use it, that way you know it’s the same because it came from the same bumper.
Rule number one of plastic welding is ''never mix plastics unless they are compatible''. Rule 4 says that both surfaces need to be at melting point to make a proper weld. Rule 16 ''when having cracks, stop them drilling a hole at the end'' Rule 23 (or 24 I dont remember) metal mesh or hot staples make a bond super strong Rule 23b: welding both sides make a weld even stronger
Я каякер, и иногда в корпусе каяков от ударов бывают трещины, их приходится ремонтировать дома. Самый надёжный способ - с помощью паяльника вплавить вырезанные полосы металлической сетки шириной не менее одного дюйма. В местах изгибов корпуса очень удобно использовать подходящие полосы вырезанные из старого полусферического кухонного сита с крупной ячейкой. Вплавлять металлическую сетку нужно так, чтобы она полностью погрузилась в пластик. Такое соединение уже никогда не ломается.
А я то думаю: куда мне прохудившиеся сита использовать, - а выбросить жалко🤔... Всё 🎇! Покупаю каяк, разбиваю его на порогах - и сита в дело😆! А если серьёзно - отличная идея👍. Я до сих пор скобы от степплера впаивал, но они не держат большой нагрузки, чисто декоративно. А! - вспомнил! Есть у меня в запасах и сеточка металлическая😀. Спасибо, встряхнули память🙏
длинные стяжки еще и стоят за единицу веса как золотые. Сетка лучше, плюс сверху можно пролить расплавленным или разведенным в ацетоне-ксилоле пластиком от бытовой упаковки
Zip ties are a good plastic for some things. I've found that stripped plastic oil quarts do the best job. I managed to seal a" plastic "gas tank in a Chevy blazer permanently with a single quart mobil one oil container and a soldering iron. Just flail them into 1/8 inch strips and melt it into the structure nice n thick, she held tight for 4 plus years until it sold. The plastic for oil containers don't degrade as they are formulated to hold petroleum based lubricants and distillates which makes them perfect for most applications. 👌
Всё гораздо проще можно сделать. Нарезвть полосок из такого же бампера и заклеить расплавляя их, тогда материалы будут однородные и прочность будет больше.
Сам пластик на бампере не прогреется и всё это паяние хрень полная , греется только пластик в пистолете , а этого не достаточно для нормального эффекта. Одним словом,, шляпа,,😂😂
Бампер изготовлен из материала РР /ПОЛИПРОПИЛЕН/, стяжки которыми вы пытаетесь его заварить или полиэтилен или нейлон. Эти два материала между собой не свариваются . Проведите тест, согните немного место сварки, все развалится.
Да проще было впаять металлические скобы и добавить немного этого пластика с мест, где можно отрезать. Это будет крепче и быстрее, чем тут в видео наснимали.
@@КоляТрунов-ч2г это как они сгниют, если будут впаяны в пластик? Металл гниёт от попадания влаги и кислорода. Внутри пластика нет ни того, ни другого.
Your video not only provided valuable knowledge but also inspired viewers to think outside the box when it comes to repairs. Thank you for sharing this fantastic idea and showcasing your skills. Keep up the great work !
Two things, unsure if the melted cable ties would get hot enough to also melt the surrounding plastic, meaning it would just tack onto and not integrate. It would be cheaper and more reliable to use the dremelled out pieces with the spade bit process as they are the same plastic. Also would suggest pushing in metal pieces across the cracks. I bend staples into W shapes and position them across the crack with the spade bit. Great suggestions of yours though, and a stimulative video for those that are willing but just never thought of it.
I've done the staple trick also and I like the idea of using the same plastic as filler. I was thinking a couple of layers of fibreglass or at least tape to bridge the seams. As it is one tap would probably re-open the wound...
The “P - P” on the car panel indicates it is polypropylene, as many cable ties are. Good quality cable ties are black PP, while the cheaper ones are any colour and nylon. Nylon ones are easy to break, so fairly easy to work out which is which.
Excellent. It's a nice alternative for DYI if these are the materials you have available. I would not have trimmed the melted material down flush and sanded it because 1) it would not be visible after reinstalled and 2) the extra material creates a stronger bond. If repairing a visible surface then yes, I would trim, sand, and finish it. I would also reinforce the opposite side if appropriate for the application. As an alternative solution (and one that you would leave as-is without trimming), try plain 5 minute epoxy and push some thin pieces or strands of steel wool into the applied surface. This works similar to when you reinforce concrete with steel rebar. After it dries, add a second coat of plain epoxy if you want a smoother surface to cover the rough surface of the previous coat with the steel wool. This second coat also gives the bond more strength and you can sand off any bumps if you want.
@@totalnoobfishing1753 There's other videos that show this better. The first part with the soldering iron trick is legit. But as several other comments have said you'll want to melt some metal mesh of some sort into the plastic. Also with a kayak I would definitely only try to do the main repair by melting the existing plastic. I doubt much else will want to stick to it. Once the main structural repair is done you can always try to add some sealer to fill the smaller remaining cracks. Might still leak a little but let's face it no kayak is 100% dry anyway.
@@totalnoobfishing1753 I haven't really done any videos or have much inclination for posting one at this time; however, I am adding a shared link to a few photos of a recent repair I did and which I'll explain below. The process is really as simple as I explained in my previous comments. Spread one layer of epoxy on the surface to be repaired followed by a layer of steel wool pressed on top of it with your fingers. Finally, a second coat of plain epoxy over the top, minutes later after the first coat sets in, or even the next day. I prefer to add the second layer while the first is still a little tacky so it fuses better into the first, but I have done so successfully after the next day also. Tips: 1) I got larger tubes of epoxy at Harbor Freight inexpensively. I have seen some on Amazon also. 2) You can try to make a mix of epoxy and steel wool in a separate container for some small applications, but I found that to be too messy for larger and other situations. I think it's best to manage each layer of material individually and not deal with a big mess. 3) the steel wool pad I used, could be unrolled out like a roll of paper. I cut off pieces or longer strips of steel wool to suite my project's needs. It's important to have these pre-cut and ready to use before you mix the epoxy because you only have a few minutes to work. 4) Don't mix more epoxy than you can manage at anytime. It dries quick. You can always mix small batches and overlap while you work on larger repairs. 5) Sand and scratch up the surface to be repaired so the epoxy sticks well to the surface. 6) Use a good amount of epoxy for the first layer and work it into the steel wool with your fingers such that the epoxy underneath it works it's way up and saturates the steel wool. You can also try pouring a little over the wool and/brush it on with a small brush or spread with flat piece of plastic or stick. 7) If you are fixing a crack in material like plastic or similar, drill holes at the ends of the cracks to prevent the cracks from spreading further. This is an important tip I learned from watching Forged in Fire where it's used some times to fix cracks on steel knives. 8) In some situations, you might want to do the same treatment on both sides of the project for extra strength. About the photos in the link below: This was a casual repair to fix a long clear toute to store stuff in my basement. I could have done a nicer job, but pretty was not a priority. I final product turned out very strong and water proof. From the inside of the container, you can see two 3/8 inch holes on each end of the crack to prevent it from cracking further. I trimmed the epoxy flush that oozed out of the holes after it dried. On the bottom side, I sanded and scuffed the plastic enough so the epoxy would stick to the smooth surface of the container. After the second epoxy layer dried, I sanded off any pointy bumps on the epoxy so it would not snag or scratch anything (or my hands) when I'm handling the container. The repair worked out perfectly, and has the ability to flex a little if needed without cracking the repair material. Enjoy... photos.app.goo.gl/zj3wC4upqGHHUz97A
@@totalnoobfishing1753 By the way... make a video if you have a chance. I would enjoy watching it! I think the epoxy-steel wool method should work well for you especially because of the need for a little flex. Other things I have tried are are styrofoam dissolved into acetone mixture and crazy glue with other substances like baking soda, but these methods result in a hard and brittle patch that will more likely crack and brake off when flexed. These are good for other situations where rigidity is OK, adherence to other kinds of materials, or making a part out of a mold. Look them up on UA-cam, experiment, and keep them all in your mental arsenal of tools for future use.
Really enjoyed this vid. I plastic weld stuff around my shop all the time and this gave me some good ideas. However I would recommend using your spade bit to actually melt the base plastic while using the cable ties as "welding rod." This way you get full material integration/strength. I personally use different 3D printer filaments as weld material - generally to great success.
I used to plastic weld stuff using my toys with my dad’s soldering iron. Lemme tell ya, that pissed him off somethin awful that got me a good but kickin! Now that I’m older I can do whatever I want but it just doesn’t seem as fun anymore.
Wow, this is a game-changer! Who would've thought cables could be used for plastic repairs? Definitely going to try this next time my plastic chair breaks!
Awesome video! I think that the final part of cutting out the excess material and sanding is maybe detrimental to the strengthe of the final result. I mean it looks like the inside part that no one sees. So why not leave it a bit uglier but maybe a bit stronger?
Because trying hard to melt two completely different plastics together was not enough alone. He had to paint it with acrylics which won't bond to polypropylene either. :D
I've used window screen to reinforce plastic welds before. Durring your soldering iron step, lay screen over the gap and use the soldering iron to press the screen into the broken plastic to heat it an sink the screen into the part you're fixing. Helps add structural stability.
I'm going to assume you would use metal screening as opposed to plastic? Sounds like a really good idea if that's the case (or maybe even plastic coated fiber screen works well?) Looking forward to your recommendation, and thanks for the tip!
Interesting. It is like welding plastic. I do believe there are special plastic sticks for that and the needed equipment. They would be more like a specialty item. It is always nice to see that someone finds other ways to do it.
Great show, the service was very good and you alerted me to a service that I have to perform on the air intake of the jetta tsi which is going to be amazing!!!
Нормальную нагрузку такая пайка не держит. Потому что когда расплавленный пластик засыхает, он становится очень неэластичным и весьма хрупким. Данный метод в принципе можно юзать, но только для вещей где нет нагрузки. Для бампера тоже годится, пока он просто висит на автомобиле. Но даже при лёгком ударе он скорее всего лопнет в этом же месте.
Я говорю что он доктора дью и других блогеров которые критикуют такой способ ремонта не смотрел ему к этим блогерам обратиться они нормально объяснили чем лучше это дело отремонтировать!
У меня так-же такой ремонт не вызывает доверия ,яремонтирую с помощью строительного фена с маленькой насадкой и пластковых прутков вырезанных из старого бампера!!!
@@ВадимКузнецов-з2й Я даже фен не всегда использую. Бывает, что и паяльника достаточно. А, пластик беру только ВАЗ. Он подходит ко всему. А, сетку беру только от воздушных фильтров, тогда и фен использую. Потом, сверху ещё пластик наплавляю паяльником. Ни разу не подвело за 20 лет. Жестянку тоже рекомендую из ВАЗовских капотов нарезать, особенно 10-х.
Брал 3 размера разных чёрных стяжек, год пролежали, хотел номер на машине поджать и все просто в хлам лопались, потом белую одну нашёл та вроде более эластичная.
Bonjour; Tuto formidable, j'ai déjà réparé ce genre article, mais votre procédé est nettement mieux et j'ai vue une chose très importante pour moi, la penne que vous avez fait, c'est super. Merci beaucoup. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
I don't understand the utility of any of the finishing on the interior, invisible side. Why cut off the excess of the cable tie "solder", then sand, then apply spray acrylic? Surely it would have been stronger with the excess cable tie still in place.
Another great idea is, after you weld the crack, lay some steel staples flat across the joint and use a small flat head nail like a #4 (cut short to fit in a soldering iron) to melt the staple down into the plastic and smooth melted plastic over it as an additional mechanical binder to hold the cracked part together.
I repaired a smashed motorbike fairing about 25 years ago using a soldering iron. I used a broken plastic (ABS) coathanger as the filler material. The fumes were shocking but it worked well. The glue-gun and cable ties are a nice touch.
@@zeez3139 you have to use the same plastic. And it probably has to be a thermoplastic, which not all plastics are. I think ABS, polystyrene (PS), polyethylene (PE), polyamide (nylon), possibly also polyester (PET) and vinyl (PVC) will work. With the same plastic as filler, of course. Polyurethane (PU), epoxy resin, melamine and silicone are examples of plastics that are not thermoplastics. I guess cable ties are either PE, PVC, or maybe nylon/polyamide, which explains why they won't work with ABS. Coat hangers may well be polystyrene, which is probably compatible enough with ABS (which is a different kind of styrene-based polymer) to work.
I use those triangular soldering irons made for plastic welding. Tip for the burning, I use an extension cord that I added a dimmer switch to for temperature control. It isn't precise, but with a little experimenting you can get it set just around melting point. When the plastic overheats it breaks the makeup of the plastic making it weak or brittle. Especially apparent when trying to do nylon with full temp. Gets all brown and kind of has a sizzling effect.
Today, anyone who truly recognizes himself as a sinner and under God's condemnation, and comes to Jesus with all his heart for salvation, trusting fully in Christ, will receive forgiveness of his sins and be born again as a son. of God. This person will have the privilege of follow Jesus as Lord of his life. This person will know the loving care of Jesus Christ, the Good Shepherd. Dear reader, Christ has opened the door for you to come to God. He has paid the penalty for sin. He is the Paschal Lamb. Today, He commands you: Repent, and believe in the Gospel. In other words, acknowledge your sin before God, acknowledge your status as a man or woman separate from God, and stop trusting yourself or anything else. Trust completely in Jesus Christ for your salvation. Cling to Christ as Savior and as Lord. Come to Him, the Good Shepherd. God commands you to repent and believe. Don't worry about how things might turn out. Jesus Christ is the Good Shepherd. Hold on to Him, and He will take care of you. His care for those who truly come to Him is perfect, tender, and total care. Come to the Good Shepherd of souls! Come to Jesus Christ!
Started plastic welding in 1995. Repairing fairings etc that were unavailable as reproduction at that time. This is a neat way to hobby around, it will not hold a bumper and I'll bet my life on it! one good bump and it'll break Wire mesh is needed and bla bla bla including a plastic stick rated for the repair you're making We ended up glass coating all repairs on fairings with fiberglass/cf stringers in a cross hatch pattern because plastic welding alone was not strong enough
Be sure to use foil tape (like in the video); if you use regular duck tape, the glue could get sticky from the heat of the melted plastic, even though it's on the other side. Also, do in a well ventilated area. The smoke from the zip ties fits PCBs, which when inhaled, find their way into the fatty tissue in the body and stay there.
"PCBs belong to a broad family of man-made organic chemicals known as chlorinated hydrocarbons. PCBs were domestically manufactured from 1929 until manufacturing was banned in 1979. They have a range of toxicity and vary in consistency from thin, light-colored liquids to yellow or black waxy solids. Due to their non-flammability, chemical stability, high boiling point and electrical insulating properties, PCBs were used in hundreds of industrial and commercial applications." So how ? Under other names to avoid ban ?
@@OMGtheykilledKenny42 The video illustrates black zip ties; plenum-rated zip ties are red to differentiate to ensure code is satisfied. Most people don't even know about those type zip ties; my concern is for those who may expose themselves to the toxins as shown in the video. Hope that helps.
Your plastic welding skills are amazing. I'm always watching and learning from you. Thank you for always sharing useful tips for life with the community. Good luck.❤
Not trying to be critical, just FYI. You don't have to make the divit in the plastic. If you draw the tip of the glue gun tip towards the gun to premelt melt the base plastic as you add plastic with a wire feed welding pattern, it bonds the plastic much deeper/stronger . Cable ties are usually nylon or polypropylene, so it's probably better to use polypropylene on most car bumpers (or better yet to use the same plastic as the bumper).
Thanks Mr. Maker. Ingenious method of fixing. All the other posters rules be hanged, you made a great effort and took the time to share it with us. For that I applaud you.👏👏👏
Brilliant! I would consider leaving the plastic " weld" rather than cutting it off. It adds a lot of strength. Is there some way to melt the cable ties for future use and mold the material into a plastic stick the same dimensions of a standard gluestick? It would probably make it easier to apply.
The left overs can be remelted in a pot then poured into a mold. A young fella here collects milk bottle tops & uses a vat to melt various colours to make skateboards,any left overs gets re-melted
Хорошо, но лучше изначально делать паяльником с регулировкой температуры, чтобы шарошками не жужжать и не создавать пластиковую пыль и заусенцы. Наждачкой шов зачищать смысла нет: пластик только более шершавый от этого становится. Красить изнанку детали тоже лишняя операция.
@@Виталий-е3р4ы Есть два метода ремонта пластика, каждый из которых имеет право на существование: 1. С армированием. Вплавляешь в пластик сетку или что-то подобное. Но стоит помнить что сетка дорогая и она не всегда под рукой, а бежать по магазинам искать её иногда очень не хочется, хоть армирование и значительно усиливает прочностные характеристики. 2. Без армирования. Наплавлять пластиковые полоски под феном, стяжка, просто паяльником с регулировкой температуры пройтись по всему шву. Мастер сам выбирает каким методом в данном случае пользоваться.
A lot of great ideas, I just don't know about stuffing cable ties into a glue gun and melting them. I'd probably try using a soldering gun to get the same consistency, laying individual staples across each channel and filling them in with the melted cable tie plastic. The metal staples reinforce the fix.
That's cool! I did that myself sometimes. Anyway it might not hold up as the original because some plastic materials require specific extrusion temperatures or heat treatments in order to have the correct crystal structure to perform as expected. It might not be as resilient
nice. I've seen similar processes for this. One of the main problems I've seen is that zip ties are sometimes not enough. you need to melt in some metal backing so it wont rip apart later. Like some staples etc. i would love to see if you bent this if it held together or not. Nice work though. came out pretty good in the end. I agree with other commenter. if they made a plastic glue gun stick that would be awesome. or use one of those 3d printer pens. The hardest part is matching the material type. certain plastics wont melt together nicely.
@@rogertaylor8615 the size of glue sticks. so they fit right into the glue gun? i thought they were just small sticks. just like sticking zip ties in the gun?
The cable ties are usually made from Nylon and the car bumper is made from a range including polycarbonates, polypropylene, polyamides, polyesters, polyurethanes, and thermoplastic olefins or TPOs many bumpers contain a combination of these different materials. It is not likely that the Nylon would form a good bond.
Since cable ties seem to be a common choice for these kinds of repairs, I wonder if glue sticks of the same material might be available. If not, perhaps one could make the sticks melting the ties into a mold. Just a thought. Great technique shown here though.
There are rods of many types of plastics available specilly made for welding, though not designed for the glue gun used in this video. You can directly use those rods melting them with the soldering iron.
I used to have a toy called Spin-Welder. It was a little handheld with plastic rods that you put on the spin-"gun". Then, pull the trigger, and spin along the joint. It was a toy that really would be useful.
Strength is also being considered, but is the type of resin for the main unit and the cable tie the same? . Wouldn't it be better to melt it with a soldering iron instead of scraping it too deep?
Since you asked questions(showing you want to learn and understand) rather than just stating opposition to the method and being a narcissistic jackass like so many people are these days, I'll explain it. It's precisely because of strength of the bond being required that scraping it that deep is necessary. Without doing that there isn't enough of the melted plastic of the cable ties to fill in the gap and give a strong enough hold between the breaks. Melting it with a soldering iron isn't going to bond the plastic together reliably alone and just reduces the ability to repair it if gone about that way alone. The reason why he did the scores in the crevasse with the ridges, is it gives the melted plastic something more to bond to and if there is any failures in bonding throughout the entire repair, the "chambers" separating it all with the ridges prevents one breakage from causing a full breakage. In an optimal situation, yes, it would be better to use the exact kind of plastic as the thing being repaired to repair it if that method is available, but since plastics are mostly the same with very little differences, using cable ties made of a different kind of plastic than the main unit isn't going to affect the final outcome really and it's impact on the strength of the repair is negligible. May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.
I translated your comment into English using google translate and had a hearty chuckle. The reason for it is Matthew 5:47-48 KJV, and the phrasing is made that way by me because it reflects what Jesus Christ said about wanting to have that bitter cup passed from Him if it's possible, but always putting the will of the Father first. Additionally, by phrasing it that way, if the person receiving the greeting rejects the Son and the Father, I have not then spoken in a way that wishes blessings on to a person who I would then be tied in to their evil because it is stated in a way that leaves it all up to the Father's will. It greets in blessing for those who will receive it fully, but leaves an out for those who would not receive it and by the Father's will then they would not receive it. May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.
You're right, it's better to use the original plastic to make the bond as you know it will join in unholy matrimony with the base material. Don't worry about the god botherers who think they have superior knowledge, they don't.
@@fins59 lol says the person who can't even perceive that I made more than one point in the comment and acknowledged the point made by ryoko. Did you even have the attention span to read the whole comment or did you just read the first line and the last and jump to conclusions because of your feelings? I'd say your passive aggressive comment already explains the story.
Я уже сколько лет, когда сталкиваюсь с такого рода проблемами, впаиваю паяльником мелкую металлическую сетку, а потом прохожу строительным феном с насадкой под пластиковый стержень и заливаю им с обратной стороны. Стержень - это нарезка от канализационных пластиковых труб, или дешёвых одежных вешалок, но их надо тоже различать, есть хрупкий пластик, а есть тот что гнется - это самое то. Ну и все держит железно. С наружи конечно не всегда прям как новый, но нормально.
It won't hold...the two plastics are different types and will not bond together. At least not for long. However you can go to harborfreight and buy plastic welding rod and use your iron to melt it in like it should be done.
Even though it appeared to take a lot of strength to shove those ties through the gun, I was with you until you turned it over and all the cracks were clearly visible. Perhaps a higher wattage gun would melt the plastic to a runnier consistency allowing it to flow into the cracks - but then you sealed it up with that soldering iron so no. Or instead of the gun maybe just light a cable tie on fire and let the dripping plastic fall into the repair. Putting aside the fact that after all this work this will clearly crack again in the same spot, it's a poor repair when you can see it so plainly.
The problem with using zip ties to repair a bumper is thar it is a different type of plastic to what the bumper is and will probably not stick properly, it may seem as though it did but may just split. If you want to weld your bumper better off using the same type of plastic.
No embedded stitch wire or metal mesh reinforcement??? That wasn't a through thickness 'weld' Are you sure...give it kick and tell me how it holds up 👍
Man, you people. Always looking a gift horse in the mouth and trying to tear down others who are just trying to help people that don't have your convenient lives filled with creature comforts and problems that can be easily fixed with a trip to a store. Always trying to boost yourselves up without even acknowledging the abilities of others or even saying thanks for the video. Self-entitled "ask siri or alexa" generation spoiled brats.
@@fins59 Of course it's weaker than the original thing. That's not the point. The point is to repair the breaks and the video example shows and does just that. You seem to be just reacting to the comment in a polarized way simply because of my religious position that you already observed and took issue with while making a fool out of yourself and making a passive aggressive attack like a coward while not even reading what I actually said. lol it's very childish. If 59 in your username is an indication of you being born in 1959, you really REALLY need to grow up.
I like the glue gun idea, at this stage I’d say build a printer pen maybe a casting system to form specialty consumables from zip ties or recycled plastic. It could make useable pieces out of scrap and filings from other repairs. Maybe just an old crock pot? I’ve got two just waiting for a use LOL I’ve seen so many of these videos but the ideas still come it’s a lot of fun. People are freaking amazing!
With plastic welding you have to add the same type of plastic that you are working on or it will not stick. This will only work on plastic bumpers that are made of the same plastic as the zip ties. What i have done on bumpers that use different types of plastic is to cut a strip from somewhere that isn’t seen and use it, that way you know it’s the same because it came from the same bumper.
Good to know
Smart
竜馬残映
Some ties are made of vinyl, others are made of nylon.
@@edorcheryldodson5342 yeah and car bumpers are made of poly carbonate and ABS plastic so they don’t mix well.
Rule number one of plastic welding is ''never mix plastics unless they are compatible''.
Rule 4 says that both surfaces need to be at melting point to make a proper weld.
Rule 16 ''when having cracks, stop them drilling a hole at the end''
Rule 23 (or 24 I dont remember) metal mesh or hot staples make a bond super strong
Rule 23b: welding both sides make a weld even stronger
You are spot on. I was getting ready to post the same thing, but you've already said it quite well. The original poster doesn't know what he is doing.
Rule 101 , Looks good to me ?
Yeah I'm just going to carve out a piece of auto plastic from another car...it's a hack ...gawd
Can you please publish all rules! Thanks
@@mts0628 safety has its own chapter in the book, with its own rules (thats chapter 1). Chapter 2 is the actual welding process ruleset.
Я каякер, и иногда в корпусе каяков от ударов бывают трещины, их приходится ремонтировать дома. Самый надёжный способ - с помощью паяльника вплавить вырезанные полосы металлической сетки шириной не менее одного дюйма. В местах изгибов корпуса очень удобно использовать подходящие полосы вырезанные из старого полусферического кухонного сита с крупной ячейкой. Вплавлять металлическую сетку нужно так, чтобы она полностью погрузилась в пластик. Такое соединение уже никогда не ломается.
Правильно, а то, что здесь показано - это сопли. при первых же ударных нагрузках посыпется.
А я то думаю: куда мне прохудившиеся сита использовать, - а выбросить жалко🤔...
Всё 🎇! Покупаю каяк, разбиваю его на порогах - и сита в дело😆!
А если серьёзно - отличная идея👍. Я до сих пор скобы от степплера впаивал, но они не держат большой нагрузки, чисто декоративно.
А! - вспомнил! Есть у меня в запасах и сеточка металлическая😀. Спасибо, встряхнули память🙏
Интересно, разбитое сопло от снегоуборщика так можно починить?
длинные стяжки еще и стоят за единицу веса как золотые. Сетка лучше, плюс сверху можно пролить расплавленным или разведенным в ацетоне-ксилоле пластиком от бытовой упаковки
проще сетку разогревать до красна на газовой горелке. потом прикладываешь к трещине и вдавливаешь черенком молотка.
Zip ties are a good plastic for some things. I've found that stripped plastic oil quarts do the best job. I managed to seal a" plastic "gas tank in a Chevy blazer permanently with a single quart mobil one oil container and a soldering iron. Just flail them into 1/8 inch strips and melt it into the structure nice n thick, she held tight for 4 plus years until it sold. The plastic for oil containers don't degrade as they are formulated to hold petroleum based lubricants and distillates which makes them perfect for most applications. 👌
글루건이 아닌 케이블 타이를 이용하다니
대단한 아이디어와 기술입니다❤👏👏👏
Всё гораздо проще можно сделать. Нарезвть полосок из такого же бампера и заклеить расплавляя их, тогда материалы будут однородные и прочность будет больше.
Вот хоть один умный! Ибо PP с PE пластиком не паяются!
Сам пластик на бампере не прогреется и всё это паяние хрень полная , греется только пластик в пистолете , а этого не достаточно для нормального эффекта.
Одним словом,, шляпа,,😂😂
Даже в Леруа уже продаются пластиковые трубки для ремонта. Различных типов пластика. Там подписано всё на упаковках. РР РЕ и тд.
Поддерживаю. Там будут разные , по составу, материалы и они никогда не " уживутся ". Вы - молодец .
@@ЕвгенийЛобах как их найти в Леруа?
In todays throw away world we need more stuff like this .Repair and fix is the way forward. Thanks for sharing 👍
All there is left to throw away with this fix is the glue gun.
วิธีพลิกไม้ปิงปอง
Бампер изготовлен из материала РР /ПОЛИПРОПИЛЕН/, стяжки которыми вы пытаетесь его заварить или полиэтилен или нейлон. Эти два материала между собой не свариваются . Проведите тест, согните немного место сварки, все развалится.
Всё правильно сказали, это видео для лохов.
Да проще было впаять металлические скобы и добавить немного этого пластика с мест, где можно отрезать. Это будет крепче и быстрее, чем тут в видео наснимали.
@@liftConnectскобы потом сгниют и ремонт придётся делать по новой, пластик к пластику , стяжки не подойдут.
@@КоляТрунов-ч2г это как они сгниют, если будут впаяны в пластик? Металл гниёт от попадания влаги и кислорода. Внутри пластика нет ни того, ни другого.
Putin said Kyiv would be his in 3 days - we're still waiting hahahaha
I use a large head roofing nail in my soldering iron and I bend different size paper clips to hold the crack shut. All work's very well.
Your video not only provided valuable knowledge but also inspired viewers to think outside the box when it comes to repairs. Thank you for sharing this fantastic idea and showcasing your skills. Keep up the great work !
Two things, unsure if the melted cable ties would get hot enough to also melt the surrounding plastic, meaning it would just tack onto and not integrate. It would be cheaper and more reliable to use the dremelled out pieces with the spade bit process as they are the same plastic. Also would suggest pushing in metal pieces across the cracks. I bend staples into W shapes and position them across the crack with the spade bit. Great suggestions of yours though, and a stimulative video for those that are willing but just never thought of it.
1
I've done the staple trick also and I like the idea of using the same plastic as filler. I was thinking a couple of layers of fibreglass or at least tape to bridge the seams. As it is one tap would probably re-open the wound...
The “P - P” on the car panel indicates it is polypropylene, as many cable ties are. Good quality cable ties are black PP, while the cheaper ones are any colour and nylon. Nylon ones are easy to break, so fairly easy to work out which is which.
I use a suitable metal mesh and also fuse it into the place of failure to increase the strength of the structure.
@@sergiydy2820 You are wrong - Metal mesh won't be strong enough.
Excellent. It's a nice alternative for DYI if these are the materials you have available. I would not have trimmed the melted material down flush and sanded it because 1) it would not be visible after reinstalled and 2) the extra material creates a stronger bond. If repairing a visible surface then yes, I would trim, sand, and finish it. I would also reinforce the opposite side if appropriate for the application.
As an alternative solution (and one that you would leave as-is without trimming), try plain 5 minute epoxy and push some thin pieces or strands of steel wool into the applied surface. This works similar to when you reinforce concrete with steel rebar. After it dries, add a second coat of plain epoxy if you want a smoother surface to cover the rough surface of the previous coat with the steel wool. This second coat also gives the bond more strength and you can sand off any bumps if you want.
I've seen steel window screen used for backing to make it stronger.
@@totalnoobfishing1753 There's other videos that show this better. The first part with the soldering iron trick is legit. But as several other comments have said you'll want to melt some metal mesh of some sort into the plastic. Also with a kayak I would definitely only try to do the main repair by melting the existing plastic. I doubt much else will want to stick to it. Once the main structural repair is done you can always try to add some sealer to fill the smaller remaining cracks. Might still leak a little but let's face it no kayak is 100% dry anyway.
@@totalnoobfishing1753 I haven't really done any videos or have much inclination for posting one at this time; however, I am adding a shared link to a few photos of a recent repair I did and which I'll explain below.
The process is really as simple as I explained in my previous comments. Spread one layer of epoxy on the surface to be repaired followed by a layer of steel wool pressed on top of it with your fingers. Finally, a second coat of plain epoxy over the top, minutes later after the first coat sets in, or even the next day. I prefer to add the second layer while the first is still a little tacky so it fuses better into the first, but I have done so successfully after the next day also.
Tips:
1) I got larger tubes of epoxy at Harbor Freight inexpensively. I have seen some on Amazon also.
2) You can try to make a mix of epoxy and steel wool in a separate container for some small applications, but I found that to be too messy for larger and other situations. I think it's best to manage each layer of material individually and not deal with a big mess.
3) the steel wool pad I used, could be unrolled out like a roll of paper. I cut off pieces or longer strips of steel wool to suite my project's needs. It's important to have these pre-cut and ready to use before you mix the epoxy because you only have a few minutes to work.
4) Don't mix more epoxy than you can manage at anytime. It dries quick. You can always mix small batches and overlap while you work on larger repairs.
5) Sand and scratch up the surface to be repaired so the epoxy sticks well to the surface.
6) Use a good amount of epoxy for the first layer and work it into the steel wool with your fingers such that the epoxy underneath it works it's way up and saturates the steel wool. You can also try pouring a little over the wool and/brush it on with a small brush or spread with flat piece of plastic or stick.
7) If you are fixing a crack in material like plastic or similar, drill holes at the ends of the cracks to prevent the cracks from spreading further. This is an important tip I learned from watching Forged in Fire where it's used some times to fix cracks on steel knives.
8) In some situations, you might want to do the same treatment on both sides of the project for extra strength.
About the photos in the link below:
This was a casual repair to fix a long clear toute to store stuff in my basement. I could have done a nicer job, but pretty was not a priority. I final product turned out very strong and water proof.
From the inside of the container, you can see two 3/8 inch holes on each end of the crack to prevent it from cracking further. I trimmed the epoxy flush that oozed out of the holes after it dried.
On the bottom side, I sanded and scuffed the plastic enough so the epoxy would stick to the smooth surface of the container. After the second epoxy layer dried, I sanded off any pointy bumps on the epoxy so it would not snag or scratch anything (or my hands) when I'm handling the container.
The repair worked out perfectly, and has the ability to flex a little if needed without cracking the repair material.
Enjoy...
photos.app.goo.gl/zj3wC4upqGHHUz97A
@@totalnoobfishing1753 By the way... make a video if you have a chance. I would enjoy watching it! I think the epoxy-steel wool method should work well for you especially because of the need for a little flex.
Other things I have tried are
are styrofoam dissolved into acetone mixture and crazy glue with other substances like baking soda, but these methods result in a hard and brittle patch that will more likely crack and brake off when flexed. These are good for other situations where rigidity is OK, adherence to other kinds of materials, or making a part out of a mold. Look them up on UA-cam, experiment, and keep them all in your mental arsenal of tools for future use.
Есть проверенные технологии ремонта автопластика. Зачем изобретать велосипед?
Really enjoyed this vid. I plastic weld stuff around my shop all the time and this gave me some good ideas. However I would recommend using your spade bit to actually melt the base plastic while using the cable ties as "welding rod." This way you get full material integration/strength. I personally use different 3D printer filaments as weld material - generally to great success.
I used to plastic weld stuff using my toys with my dad’s soldering iron. Lemme tell ya, that pissed him off somethin awful that got me a good but kickin! Now that I’m older I can do whatever I want but it just doesn’t seem as fun anymore.
I totally agree on using the ties like welding rods but I have to admit seeing the cable ties come out of the glue gun was pretty awesome
How do you find cable tie to melt ? I have mixed results
@@zeez3139 Actually I don't use cable ties. I have a wide range of 3D printer filament but I usually use Carbon X: carbon filled nylon.
Don't ever try to weld different plastics together like polycarbonate (car part) and nylon zip ties. The joint is not strong.
Wow, this is a game-changer! Who would've thought cables could be used for plastic repairs? Definitely going to try this next time my plastic chair breaks!
Awesome video! I think that the final part of cutting out the excess material and sanding is maybe detrimental to the strengthe of the final result.
I mean it looks like the inside part that no one sees. So why not leave it a bit uglier but maybe a bit stronger?
Because trying hard to melt two completely different plastics together was not enough alone. He had to paint it with acrylics which won't bond to polypropylene either. :D
@@h4z4rd42 Lol! yes! Haha! I Love youtube commenters. I agree
Makin the back of the panel "all purty" is a waste of time.
Weakens "solder", wastes time and being anal doesn't get extra points.
супер респект срастить полипропилен с нейлоном (он же полиамид) это уметь надо. автору крутых ремонтов и долгой жизни без трещин
🤣👏
Ему нобелевку нужно дать за это.
I've used window screen to reinforce plastic welds before. Durring your soldering iron step, lay screen over the gap and use the soldering iron to press the screen into the broken plastic to heat it an sink the screen into the part you're fixing. Helps add structural stability.
Yep. Without some reinforcement I doubt it will last long
I'm going to assume you would use metal screening as opposed to plastic? Sounds like a really good idea if that's the case (or maybe even plastic coated fiber screen works well?) Looking forward to your recommendation, and thanks for the tip!
Better off to use Quad rubber caulk (not silicone).
Excellent advice!!!
Nice idea, gonna give it a try
Interesting. It is like welding plastic. I do believe there are special plastic sticks for that and the needed equipment. They would be more like a specialty item. It is always nice to see that someone finds other ways to do it.
Great show, the service was very good and you alerted me to a service that I have to perform on the air intake of the jetta tsi which is going to be amazing!!!
Без армирования это всё филькина грамота, - только если продать ( типа не бита не крашена ;) )
Есть сомнения в качестве этого ремонта, т.к. материалы разные: стяжка обычно сделана из нейлона, а бампер из ппр или другой пластик.
Нормальную нагрузку такая пайка не держит. Потому что когда расплавленный пластик засыхает, он становится очень неэластичным и весьма хрупким.
Данный метод в принципе можно юзать, но только для вещей где нет нагрузки. Для бампера тоже годится, пока он просто висит на автомобиле. Но даже при лёгком ударе он скорее всего лопнет в этом же месте.
Я говорю что он доктора дью и других блогеров которые критикуют такой способ ремонта не смотрел ему к этим блогерам обратиться они нормально объяснили чем лучше это дело отремонтировать!
У меня так-же такой ремонт не вызывает доверия ,яремонтирую с помощью строительного фена с маленькой насадкой и пластковых прутков вырезанных из старого бампера!!!
@@ВадимКузнецов-з2й Я даже фен не всегда использую. Бывает, что и паяльника достаточно. А, пластик беру только ВАЗ. Он подходит ко всему. А, сетку беру только от воздушных фильтров, тогда и фен использую. Потом, сверху ещё пластик наплавляю паяльником. Ни разу не подвело за 20 лет. Жестянку тоже рекомендую из ВАЗовских капотов нарезать, особенно 10-х.
Брал 3 размера разных чёрных стяжек, год пролежали, хотел номер на машине поджать и все просто в хлам лопались, потом белую одну нашёл та вроде более эластичная.
It's impressive how human beings are able to resolve the most adverse situations, congratulations 👏👏👏
Bonjour; Tuto formidable, j'ai déjà réparé ce genre article, mais votre procédé est nettement mieux et j'ai vue une chose très importante pour moi, la penne que vous avez fait, c'est super. Merci beaucoup. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
The meticulous finishing really is impressive!! The hallmark of a professional. Triviality create perfection but perfection is no triviality!!
I don't understand the utility of any of the finishing on the interior, invisible side. Why cut off the excess of the cable tie "solder", then sand, then apply spray acrylic? Surely it would have been stronger with the excess cable tie still in place.
Another great idea is, after you weld the crack, lay some steel staples flat across the joint and use a small flat head nail like a #4 (cut short to fit in a soldering iron) to melt the staple down into the plastic and smooth melted plastic over it as an additional mechanical binder to hold the cracked part together.
Oh I like that, always good to have an extra lil splint
Да, я давно пользуюсь скобами для степлера, а впаиваю их, просто приложив паяльник.
Вот только про стяжки не догадался: нет у меня такого аппарата.
I also use this method always.
@@ПерстФомы My Fishing Gear is in the Kitchen
You mean melt the plastic not the staples
I repaired a smashed motorbike fairing about 25 years ago using a soldering iron. I used a broken plastic (ABS) coathanger as the filler material. The fumes were shocking but it worked well. The glue-gun and cable ties are a nice touch.
I use the coat hanger plastic I find it better that cable ties as they seem to be a bit oily somehow
@@zeez3139 you have to use the same plastic. And it probably has to be a thermoplastic, which not all plastics are. I think ABS, polystyrene (PS), polyethylene (PE), polyamide (nylon), possibly also polyester (PET) and vinyl (PVC) will work. With the same plastic as filler, of course. Polyurethane (PU), epoxy resin, melamine and silicone are examples of plastics that are not thermoplastics. I guess cable ties are either PE, PVC, or maybe nylon/polyamide, which explains why they won't work with ABS. Coat hangers may well be polystyrene, which is probably compatible enough with ABS (which is a different kind of styrene-based polymer) to work.
Good GAWD man, did you wear a mask ? What kind of lung damage occurred since its been 25 years ago?
I use those triangular soldering irons made for plastic welding.
Tip for the burning, I use an extension cord that I added a dimmer switch to for temperature control. It isn't precise, but with a little experimenting you can get it set just around melting point.
When the plastic overheats it breaks the makeup of the plastic making it weak or brittle.
Especially apparent when trying to do nylon with full temp. Gets all brown and kind of has a sizzling effect.
天才！！
ホットボンドに結束バンドが使えるとは、
これならかなり強度が出ますよね。
さらに、表からもこの方法で修理できますね。
仕上げはちょっと大変になりそうですが。
No way, I was going to the exact same video, but you took it up a level with the zip ties in a glue gun. Awesome man you smashed it.
I tried it once without the gun and it didn't hit it stayed like scumbag
that smoke from the glue gun must smell great
What an amazing fix! Best one I've seen in a long time. Brilliant idea.
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Started plastic welding in 1995. Repairing fairings etc that were unavailable as reproduction at that time. This is a neat way to hobby around, it will not hold a bumper and I'll bet my life on it! one good bump and it'll break
Wire mesh is needed and bla bla bla including a plastic stick rated for the repair you're making
We ended up glass coating all repairs on fairings with fiberglass/cf stringers in a cross hatch pattern because plastic welding alone was not strong enough
Be sure to use foil tape (like in the video); if you use regular duck tape, the glue could get sticky from the heat of the melted plastic, even though it's on the other side. Also, do in a well ventilated area. The smoke from the zip ties fits PCBs, which when inhaled, find their way into the fatty tissue in the body and stay there.
"PCBs belong to a broad family of man-made organic chemicals known as chlorinated hydrocarbons. PCBs were domestically manufactured from 1929 until manufacturing was banned in 1979. They have a range of toxicity and vary in consistency from thin, light-colored liquids to yellow or black waxy solids. Due to their non-flammability, chemical stability, high boiling point and electrical insulating properties, PCBs were used in hundreds of industrial and commercial applications." So how ? Under other names to avoid ban ?
Thanks...
What if they're plenum rated zip ties?
@@OMGtheykilledKenny42 The video illustrates black zip ties; plenum-rated zip ties are red to differentiate to ensure code is satisfied. Most people don't even know about those type zip ties; my concern is for those who may expose themselves to the toxins as shown in the video. Hope that helps.
@@Unsubscribed_Inc Lol! Indeed! Taco bell too
Thank you for sharing the video, your method is very good and useful,
Your plastic welding skills are amazing. I'm always watching and learning from you. Thank you for always sharing useful tips for life with the community. Good luck.❤
Brilliant. As you were going along I was figuring out the practical application for why you were doing it and it all came together logically.
I had seen similar techniques, but the way implemented here was on another level. Good stuff.
Not trying to be critical, just FYI.
You don't have to make the divit in the plastic.
If you draw the tip of the glue gun tip towards the gun to premelt melt the base plastic as you add plastic with a wire feed welding pattern, it bonds the plastic much deeper/stronger . Cable ties are usually nylon or polypropylene, so it's probably better to use polypropylene on most car bumpers (or better yet to use the same plastic as the bumper).
How would one find polypropylene to add to the glue gun?
Clever. Clever. Clever. Congratulation. Thanks 😊😊😊
I've been using cable Ties for years to fix screw Threads in Automotive black plastics fill and put in new threads Eezy ✨
Thanks Mr. Maker. Ingenious method of fixing. All the other posters rules be hanged, you made a great effort and took the time to share it with us. For that I applaud you.👏👏👏
Brilliant! I would consider leaving the plastic " weld" rather than cutting it off. It adds a lot of strength.
Is there some way to melt the cable ties for future use and mold the material into a plastic stick the same dimensions of a standard gluestick? It would probably make it easier to apply.
I was wondering why he cut off the inside plastic also.
The left overs can be remelted in a pot then poured into a mold. A young fella here collects milk bottle tops & uses a vat to melt various colours to make skateboards,any left overs gets re-melted
@@scorpnz4433 What is a vat?
@@nachnamevorname5917 large container usually square & are self heating. a commercial deep fryer as an example
we noticed multiple layers of plastic welding applied, so we imagine that the process is effective.
Зачем шов внутри зачищать? Не зачищенный прочнее.
Потому, что автор вообще в этом не понимает ничего.
Это ладно, без покраски тут никак!!!
tres bonne idee merci pour la video
Methode pengerjaan plastik yg berguna..keren..👍
Excellent idea, it gives us the basic ideas so we can run with it!! Expand ON THEM DON'T PICK APART!!!!
Exactly! It's not about this being a good or bad repair, it's knowing that you can do it, and expand on it as you stated
Calm down.
@DeanoD13 Great advice
JUST WHEN I NEEDED THIS. Thank you! Something similar to the thing you repaired, only an irrigation cover thingy. This might work! 🎉
É verdadeiramente incrível. Ideia excelente
Пластиковые стяжки не той структуры, что и бампер. Все это творчество рассыпется на первой кочке.
4.6 лямов просмотров такой шляпы👍
Согласен
Thank you so much! Interesting and helpful hacks..looking forward to more tips❤
Not a bad idea 👍 it’s a good start for others to add in their knowledge and experience also to get the best results 💪
к ремонту это не имеет никакого отношения! лишь косметический эффект
Там и до косметики далеко
За 6 дней 3.9 миллиона просмотров!!! Да новый хит столько не наберёт! Сколько же народу страдает отполоманных пластмассовых изделий!!!😅😅😅
What a great idea! You welded with the flat paddle soldering iron then backfilled with Zip Ties to fill in the gap. Great idea.😊
Thank you for that professor I'm doing that tomorrow and save money from going to a body shop. That was great Thank you
Хорошо, но лучше изначально делать паяльником с регулировкой температуры, чтобы шарошками не жужжать и не создавать пластиковую пыль и заусенцы. Наждачкой шов зачищать смысла нет: пластик только более шершавый от этого становится. Красить изнанку детали тоже лишняя операция.
Я думаю и клей-пистолет тоже можно будет после сей процедуры выкидывать?
Нет. Просто будет отдельно пистолет для пластика. Для клея лучше купить другой.
Сетку вплавить не судьба?))))
@@Виталий-е3р4ы Есть два метода ремонта пластика, каждый из которых имеет право на существование:
1. С армированием. Вплавляешь в пластик сетку или что-то подобное. Но стоит помнить что сетка дорогая и она не всегда под рукой, а бежать по магазинам искать её иногда очень не хочется, хоть армирование и значительно усиливает прочностные характеристики.
2. Без армирования. Наплавлять пластиковые полоски под феном, стяжка, просто паяльником с регулировкой температуры пройтись по всему шву.
Мастер сам выбирает каким методом в данном случае пользоваться.
@@Виталий-е3р4ы сетка отстой
Разные типы пластиков приводят к скорому разрушению швов😂
да они и сцепляются плохо.
@@МолотыйЛиббентроп Вернее они вообще не сцепляются )))) .
A lot of great ideas, I just don't know about stuffing cable ties into a glue gun and melting them. I'd probably try using a soldering gun to get the same consistency, laying individual staples across each channel and filling them in with the melted cable tie plastic. The metal staples reinforce the fix.
Thanks! I have learnt a new method to fix broken plastic.
이런 기발한 방법이 있다니요. 대단합니다 !!
That's cool! I did that myself sometimes. Anyway it might not hold up as the original because some plastic materials require specific extrusion temperatures or heat treatments in order to have the correct crystal structure to perform as expected. It might not be as resilient
nice. I've seen similar processes for this. One of the main problems I've seen is that zip ties are sometimes not enough. you need to melt in some metal backing so it wont rip apart later. Like some staples etc. i would love to see if you bent this if it held together or not. Nice work though. came out pretty good in the end. I agree with other commenter. if they made a plastic glue gun stick that would be awesome. or use one of those 3d printer pens. The hardest part is matching the material type. certain plastics wont melt together nicely.
They do make plastic welding rods go to harbor fright and get them
@@rogertaylor8615 the size of glue sticks. so they fit right into the glue gun? i thought they were just small sticks. just like sticking zip ties in the gun?
If he used the proper material and method, the bond could have been strong. This way it's just garbage. PP and PA just don't match.
Thank God you painted it! That was the important step!
Since the plastic weld won't hold it together long, maybe the paint will!
The cable ties are usually made from Nylon and the car bumper is made from a range including polycarbonates, polypropylene, polyamides, polyesters, polyurethanes, and thermoplastic olefins or TPOs many bumpers contain a combination of these different materials. It is not likely that the Nylon would form a good bond.
Correct
Comments like this feel like fresh air in Linfen, China.
Well, it seemed to work just fine, congratulations.
Brilliant..! Bravo! 👏🏻 😊
Возникает вопрос: а после такой операции пистолетом дальше можно пользоваться?
Можно, берете стандартный прозрачный стержень, он и вытолкает остатки чёрного пластика.
Since cable ties seem to be a common choice for these kinds of repairs, I wonder if glue sticks of the same material might be available. If not, perhaps one could make the sticks melting the ties into a mold. Just a thought. Great technique shown here though.
3D pen is that thing you find.
I thought that maybe 3D printing ABS filament might be useful for this.
There are rods of many types of plastics available specilly made for welding, though not designed for the glue gun used in this video. You can directly use those rods melting them with the soldering iron.
А снаружи будет трещина? Сомневаюсь в прочности этого ремонта.
Слушай он походу доктора дью и других блогеров которые критикуют такой способ ремонта не смотрел!
да абсолютная дич! чтобы это работало нужно чтобы и бампер и стяжки были из одного пластика сделаны.
Muy buen video, simple y explicado con los pasos precisos, felicitaciones.
BRAVO
I used to have a toy called Spin-Welder. It was a little handheld with plastic rods that you put on the spin-"gun". Then, pull the trigger, and spin along the joint. It was a toy that really would be useful.
Show de bola ... Parabéns !!!
Strength is also being considered, but is the type of resin for the main unit and the cable tie the same? . Wouldn't it be better to melt it with a soldering iron instead of scraping it too deep?
Since you asked questions(showing you want to learn and understand) rather than just stating opposition to the method and being a narcissistic jackass like so many people are these days, I'll explain it. It's precisely because of strength of the bond being required that scraping it that deep is necessary. Without doing that there isn't enough of the melted plastic of the cable ties to fill in the gap and give a strong enough hold between the breaks. Melting it with a soldering iron isn't going to bond the plastic together reliably alone and just reduces the ability to repair it if gone about that way alone. The reason why he did the scores in the crevasse with the ridges, is it gives the melted plastic something more to bond to and if there is any failures in bonding throughout the entire repair, the "chambers" separating it all with the ridges prevents one breakage from causing a full breakage.
In an optimal situation, yes, it would be better to use the exact kind of plastic as the thing being repaired to repair it if that method is available, but since plastics are mostly the same with very little differences, using cable ties made of a different kind of plastic than the main unit isn't going to affect the final outcome really and it's impact on the strength of the repair is negligible.
May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.
@@Itsallsotiresome в конце комментария было неожиданно, я чуть в церковь не пошёл, но потом вспомнил, что я на работе
I translated your comment into English using google translate and had a hearty chuckle.
The reason for it is Matthew 5:47-48 KJV,
and the phrasing is made that way by me because it reflects what Jesus Christ said about wanting to have that bitter cup passed from Him if it's possible, but always putting the will of the Father first. Additionally, by phrasing it that way, if the person receiving the greeting rejects the Son and the Father, I have not then spoken in a way that wishes blessings on to a person who I would then be tied in to their evil because it is stated in a way that leaves it all up to the Father's will. It greets in blessing for those who will receive it fully, but leaves an out for those who would not receive it and by the Father's will then they would not receive it.
May the Heavenly Father bless you in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ if it be the Father's will.
You're right, it's better to use the original plastic to make the bond as you know it will join in unholy matrimony with the base material. Don't worry about the god botherers who think they have superior knowledge, they don't.
@@fins59 lol says the person who can't even perceive that I made more than one point in the comment and acknowledged the point made by ryoko.
Did you even have the attention span to read the whole comment or did you just read the first line and the last and jump to conclusions because of your feelings? I'd say your passive aggressive comment already explains the story.
Brilliant. I'm much impressed.
Wow, you are the best.. I learned something really good.
Пластик должен сплавляться друг с другом,не будет держатся, неправильно
Это ерунда. Надо в шов вставлять согнутую зигзагом проволоку лучше латунную. Эту проволоку и вплавляешь в шов. Вот тогда будет толк.
Я уже сколько лет, когда сталкиваюсь с такого рода проблемами, впаиваю паяльником мелкую металлическую сетку, а потом прохожу строительным феном с насадкой под пластиковый стержень и заливаю им с обратной стороны. Стержень - это нарезка от канализационных пластиковых труб, или дешёвых одежных вешалок, но их надо тоже различать, есть хрупкий пластик, а есть тот что гнется - это самое то. Ну и все держит железно. С наружи конечно не всегда прям как новый, но нормально.
Но это тот пластик который паяется, а есть с которыми так не сделаешь, зачем срезать внутри если не чего не видно
와... 생각도 못 해본 재료네요 케이블타이를 이용해서 글로곤건을 쓰다니
Super TNX. abs. awesom, best video and masters, full respect from old BG.
It won't hold...the two plastics are different types and will not bond together. At least not for long. However you can go to harborfreight and buy plastic welding rod and use your iron to melt it in like it should be done.
Funny video 😂Thanks for improving my mood. I haven't seen such nonsense for a long time
Even though it appeared to take a lot of strength to shove those ties through the gun, I was with you until you turned it over and all the cracks were clearly visible. Perhaps a higher wattage gun would melt the plastic to a runnier consistency allowing it to flow into the cracks - but then you sealed it up with that soldering iron so no. Or instead of the gun maybe just light a cable tie on fire and let the dripping plastic fall into the repair. Putting aside the fact that after all this work this will clearly crack again in the same spot, it's a poor repair when you can see it so plainly.
I have seen an option for glue gun that runs extra high heat, that might be more effective
NIce video, greetings from Argentina🙋♂
Gracias encontre este video y me sirvio de mucho se me partio una pieza muy pequenita y no tenia idea como repararla . Claro que me sirve
The problem with using zip ties to repair a bumper is thar it is a different type of plastic to what the bumper is and will probably not stick properly, it may seem as though it did but may just split.
If you want to weld your bumper better off using the same type of plastic.
No embedded stitch wire or metal mesh reinforcement??? That wasn't a through thickness 'weld' Are you sure...give it kick and tell me how it holds up 👍
Man, you people. Always looking a gift horse in the mouth and trying to tear down others who are just trying to help people that don't have your convenient lives filled with creature comforts and problems that can be easily fixed with a trip to a store. Always trying to boost yourselves up without even acknowledging the abilities of others or even saying thanks for the video. Self-entitled "ask siri or alexa" generation spoiled brats.
You're right, the repair is weaker than the original plastic, it needs reinforcement inside.
@@fins59 Of course it's weaker than the original thing. That's not the point. The point is to repair the breaks and the video example shows and does just that. You seem to be just reacting to the comment in a polarized way simply because of my religious position that you already observed and took issue with while making a fool out of yourself and making a passive aggressive attack like a coward while not even reading what I actually said.
lol it's very childish. If 59 in your username is an indication of you being born in 1959, you really REALLY need to grow up.
Zero penitration, hope this guy isn't a structural welder.
Even baking soda and super glue would be better.
Why spend all that time slicing and sanding the the repair, it's on the inside, it will never be seen..
Spoken like a true third world person
Thank you ❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍
More than wonderful, very, very good luck and permanent success in your good work
This process did not make any sense! 😂
Why?
It's pretty bad A$$ actually. . . Made alot of sense. This showed me how professionally you can get with melting plastic. This video helped me.
bravo excellente idée merci
Very good. Greetings from Colombia
I like the glue gun idea, at this stage I’d say build a printer pen maybe a casting system to form specialty consumables from zip ties or recycled plastic. It could make useable pieces out of scrap and filings from other repairs. Maybe just an old crock pot?
I’ve got two just waiting for a use LOL I’ve seen so many of these videos but the ideas still come it’s a lot of fun.
People are freaking amazing!
Excelente !! Muchas gracias por compartir.
I was going to buy acetone to melt some plastic, but I think this may do the trick 😂great
Very very very good. Thank you
You are very skilled and clever. Thank you for sharing this great repair video.
휼륭하세요 금손입니다
배우고 감니다
Good afternoon my brother,
you are a genius Like 👍👏👏💯 5:15
creative idea