Thanks for the future video ideas! Please let me know if there are other rust removal products you'd like tested. Thanks again, Todd CLR: amzn.to/2QnajyB Krud Kutter: amzn.to/47V6Gpp Evap-Rust: amzn.to/32mWw0W Loctite Naval Jelly: amzn.to/2EwdktN Muriatic Acid: amzn.to/3hmmoA3
Do you know who makes the best 1000 watt power inverter? I usually need it to plug in a 110v 5 amp water hose sump pump and have found myself near no power and have to drive on average about 20miles back to town to grab a generator. Tractor supply co, DeWalt, Duracell all make one but which one can deliver power without putting to much of a strain on my truck and run without over heating after 10minutes of use. I've looked on UA-cam and through forums but all they give is specs of them and not a actual test. If you do happen to do a video on this could you run such a pump on a 50ft extension cord? I know it's a expensive task to ask but if you find yourself needing a project idea I give you my deepest gratitude. Thanks and look forward to a "let's find out" video on 1000watt inverters
I've seen comments about ACF-50 (and the heavier version, Corrosion Block) mentioning that they can also remove rust. I would be interested in that being put to the test, maybe up against other rust prevention products like XCP Rust Blocker. Of course their primary purpose is to prevent rust but seeing how they affect existing rust would also be useful.
The Coke has a great use when removing rust. Mix it with some rum and drink it while waiting for one of the better cleaners to finish 😄. Awesome videos 👍.
Project Farm Coke actually works really good when using some tin foil. If you brush a piece of tin foil against the metal with some Coke poured onto it the rust removes in seconds. Talking out of experience.
Please, never stop making these videos. I can't tell you how nice it is to have so much empirical data on commercial products. I like your methodical approach to testing and presentation of data.
This is one of the best channels on UA-cam. Your tests are so incredibly useful in daily life when purchasing products. Nobody else does testing like this. Thanks so much.
I know I'm probably late on this, I use evapo-rust when restoring car parts, mainly because it does work fantastically and is very gentle at the same time. Also the evapo-rust you can use over and over again. I usually will strain it to get any large particles out and then keep using it. I also usually let parts soak for 3ish days. Also evapo-rust has no harsh acids so if you spill some it's not a huge deal.
@alberta3157 it won't do any good for that, radiator coolant has rust inhibitors already. If you have trash in your cooling system go get a professional cooling system flush. Will do a much much better job.
@@themeez1000 it costs around 150$, they are not telling you if they are using any solution, they just connect a system that presurizes the cooling system and using heated water/solution to circulate for some time. So I'm not sure about that ...
I use Evaporust all the time, but the thing to bare in mind with it is that it's a chemical reaction that is VERY temperature dependent. At normal room temperature it's quite slow, and almost ineffective at below 60° However if you put parts in a pot and heat them up to 100° - 120° it works VERY quickly, like Muriatic Acid quick.
Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too. Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.
Given the fact that it's less than half the price of Krud Kutter, works almost as well, can be used over and over (until it's black, which takes a long time), won't hurt you if you touch it and can be disposed of by just dumping it out or putting it down the drain, I think Evapo-rust is going to be my choice for the projects I have coming up. This is an excellent video - thank you!
Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too. Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.
@@markspc1 You're a goon....this dude is easily the most non-biased tester of products I've ever seen. Some boneheads gotta hate on everything. You do you I guess.
I absolutely love these videos. You do a great job of comparing products in a controlled, measured setting--without hyping any sponsored products. It's always a gamble when you buy and try a product. You are doing us a great service by really testing these products well. Thank you.,
Great video and testing setups Todd! The Muriatic Acid works better than anything I've ever found for removing rust and scale. The key to not losing much metal is short immersion times and neutralizing the acid right after removing the item from soaking with a baking soda and water mixture. I've worked with Muriatic Acid many times over the years and I don't think it is as dangerous as most people seem to think it is. I have never been burned by it even when it has gotten on bare skin, however, you DO NOT want to inhale any of the vapors or get it into your eyes. It will burn mucous membranes rather quickly. The craziest thing I have ever seen with respect to Muriatic Acid is watching a drunk grab a bottle of it and take a big drink, thinking it was beer. Needless to say, he spat it out quickly and was dosed with a baking soda and water mixture to neutralize any remaining acid. He never exhibited any adverse symptoms from his "big gulp" and carried on his drinking afterward...some people... How about a video showing people how to "sharpen" old metal files using Muriatic Acid and Vinegar? I've tried it and they both work, but the acid works much quicker. The acid works within 10-20 minutes and the Vinegar takes several days. It does extend the life of your files a good bit too. I didn't believe it until I tried it for myself, collect some old files and give it a try. Just be sure to clean and degrease the files first. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much for the terrific video idea! Also, thanks for the information on muriatic acid. I learn a lot from the comments. Finally, what a scary situation regarding the "big gulp" of this stuff! Thanks again.
We’ve used Evapo-rust at work and I’ve been SUPER impressed with it. They do warn that it does draw some carbon to the surface, but I doubt it’s an amount that would change the strength of the material. It takes time, but holy crap, it does work. “Started to eat some of the metal”. That’s not good. Evapo-rust doesn’t do that. Something to consider. One thing we were able to do with it was remove some rusted and seized 1-1/4” studs from a massive valve body. It will creep in like a penetrating oil, and it actually seemed to be more effective.
I second useing it to free rusted up things. Works 1000x better than wd-40. Not to mention you can put metal parts with plastic paint and anything in between and not have to worry about the evap-rust hurting anything other than rust. Short of needing something rust free same day evapo-rust is king. Super reusable and affordable too
So does the Evapo-rust start eating the metal if you leave it in there for a long time? How long should i let it sit for? I wanna use the evapo-rust on a chrome bmx frame.. will the evapo-rust eat up the chrome or turn it a different color? There’s only a few spots on the frame that’s rusted but the chrome is still nice and would like to keep it ... any info would be appreciated, thanks
@@ladron775 I've not used it on Chrome before but I've used it on stuff with paint and plastic as well as aluminum and brass, I'd advise using it on a small patch of chrome to ensure no discoloration but I doubt you'll have issues. It will not eat away at metal, I've forgot stuff in it for a week one with no metal being eaten. It takes about 24hr to work depending on how heavy the rust is ect, a scotch Brite pad to knock off anything loose is helpful too if you're in a hurry
@@ladron775 not sure about chrome, but it does change the surface colour of the raw steel. Somehow it draws a very small about of carbon to the surface, darkening it. Given that Chrome doesn’t contain carbon, you’re probably fine, but test a small spot to be safe. No, evaporust doesn’t harm the metal at all, or paint or other coatings. It’s also extremely safe to handle. Their MSDS listings on their site will confirm that.
Thanks for the uploads over the years. I would say that I've learned something useful from every single one. Putting this type of program on youtube is pure genius as I believe almost everyone can learn from these uploads.
FINALLY!! A UA-cam video showing a well-designed comparative study with controls!! Thank you for this!!!! Your experiment has been extremely helpful to me!!! Yay!! Great work!!!!
Thanks for another great video ! An old guy once told me he used WHEY to loosen rusted manifold bolts on a marine engine. He said you could then turn the bolts out with your fingers. He chose to use whey because they used to feed their pigs on whey from the local cheese factory, and the iron feeding pots never got rusty. I've had good results using whey on rusty tools, bolts steel wire and chain. Sometimes I left the rusty item immersed for a week or more. Can be a bit stinky in the hot sun, but put a lid on the plastic pail. When done, wash the item off with soapy water, dry it, then apply a coating to prevent rusting again. As a quick fix, I threw several lengths of chain in pails of used engine oil over the winter. I may wipe off most oil, leaving enough so I can store chain in damp conditions. Or I may clean up and spray cold galvanize or some other pail coating. Whey is cost effective for big jobs if, as I did, you get pails of whey for free from a cheese factory. [ RIP Uncle Billy ]
This is the second video of yours that I've watched and I'm extremely impressed by your presentation. You do a very good job of explaining the products, giving them a good amount of time to work, and using the control to do a comparison. Very methodical and easy to follow. Thanks for work and for sharing your results!
Sometimes you definitely get what you pay for. The Krud Cutter did an amazing job. It’s definitely worth the extra money 💴 in my opinion. I would buy it... and I’m pretty frugal lol 😆. My favorite videos are when the less expensive products/items beat out things that cost 5-10X as much. But hey, we all occasionally have to pay. That’s the difference.. knowing when to save and when to spend. I love the reviews and comparisons. God bless and keep them coming.
I just applied Krud Kutter to my mower deck, turned the rust spots white. I plan to use Fluid Film as the top coat. It will be interesting to see how this will work when I hit the wet patches of grass. Normally I DO NOT mow wet grass, but this year (West Central Wisconsin), it has been raining EVERY OTHER day, so I have no choice! Lawn maintenance SUX!!!
Great experiments. Arguably this is more practical advice than, say, whether or not I can run my lawn mower on WD-40 but I do appreciate the bizarre tests too.
Not completely... Most of the products tested are not known in Europe. But everyone knows the stuff he puts in an engine. What's the point of testing if products are not available (or at insane high prices). I'm always a bit dissapointed when it's not an engine test because of this.
You can't imagine how valuable your videos are. Speaking for myself (and i'm sure every other subscriber), they have saved me so much time and $$. Thank you sir!
I love this channel. Just found it recently. Your approach to testing is exactly what I was looking for. You have data backing it all up. **You clearly display all the numeric data ** which I find a lot of other not doing. In addition you provide price to performance comparison. THANK YOU for being what I consider to be a gold standard and why You Tube was created.
Excellent test/review. I appreciate the cost per ounce addition. One thing that I like about Evapo-Rust is the ability to reuse it. Muti-use lowers its net cost.
For small parts, nuts, bolts, etc. that will fit in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner, I use Evapo-Rust. The heat and agitation added by the ultrasonic cleaner really help get rust out of all the threads and small spaces. For parts too large to fit in there, I use electrolysis instead. Washing soda (or Oxi-Clean) dissolved in water is the active ingredient, and electric current supplied by a battery charger does the work. Another benefit is that what is left over is non-toxic and can be dumped in the yard. That assumes that only ordinary steel was used and not galvanized or stainless steel because they will create a toxic residue. I have used Naval Jelly in the past, but in more recent years I use one of the two methods I just described instead. If I do use Naval Jelly, I like to cover the jelly with plastic food wrap to keep it from drying out, because prolonged soaking seems to work best. I also ensure that I scrub the part down with an abrasive pad and water to remove the residue completely. Great video, BTW.
Agreed - With the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with heat it takes about 2 hours for me to remove rust on small parts with EvapoRust. With the bigger pieces I just put them in a tub and cover with Evaporust for a day or two. I may try the Muriatic Acid though next time i'm in a hurry though for the big parts.
Galvanized steel is just zinc-coated, so it should be non-toxic. It might even be beneficial, if your soil is zinc-deficient: www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=zinc+fertilizer
Great comment! Thank you for the extra details. Not sure just what I could use this for yet.. my boyfriend has a ton of rusty tools in the garage but he thinks it's weird that I want to clean them up & get them organized on a peg board. "That's like me asking if I can wash your makeup brushes for you..." Fair enough!
Great video! I've used muriatic acid in the past to restore automotive parts. Although it's extremely effective it also strips protective finishes from nearby metal. Using this stuff in my garage caused most metals in my garage to rust. It completely rusted out my drill press and a bicycle that had never seen a rainy day in its life. Just the evaporating gases caused this. Very nasty stuff. I also left some bolts soaking in it for over a month and when I removed the bolts they crumbled in my hand. Love the content!
I haven’t watched him for a while, but the fact this guy isn’t sponsored at all is pretty cool. (It may have changed. I’m at the beginning of the video.) Imagine when he started the channel, was making zero money, and just experimenting with stuff with his own money with no return. Good for this guy! Liked and subscribed.
I love this guy, BUT I wish he would slow down the "speed reading" from the "Q-cards"! Don't know how he can talk SOOO fast without catching a breath, but it is annoying at times! LOL
I always loved going into Best Buy, Circuit City, and a few other choice electronic stores to have employees start reading off the side of the products that they were trying to sell.. Let's see; I believe I can do that myself. In any number of stores, what gets recommended is often a function not necessarily price, but how much profit is made; the staff is taught which brands give them the most profit; in other stores, some employees figure that the more expensive product is the product to sell ( most profit ) .
@@MrPir84free I don't have a problem with them reading off the box, as long as they can explain what the features listed are and mean. Or can explain the differences between products. So it's not just: "well, one box says it has a 2-ohm resistance speaker and the other says it has 4-ohm". Ummm.... Ok....what's an ohm and what do the different numbers mean? .... If they can explain things on that level....I'm good.
You are one of my favorite contributors on UA-cam. The amount of time you spend on your tests is apparent. Thanks for taking one for the team, over and over again
Here I thought evaporust was expensive! I like that evaporust can be used over and over again and non-toxic so if it spills I don't have to worry about it.
Kimo Kalihi I also use Evaporust & love it. I mostly use it to dip rusty parts in the 5 Gallon bucket that I bought from Amazon, $75 yeah that's expensive but worth it. I pour it inside the engine block to remove all the passages where the water coolant flows through while closing off any exit areas like where the water pump attaches to. 5 days cleans it very nice to the bare iron cast. I also dip rusted parts in the 5 gallon bucket. If parts don't fit, then I use a sprayable gel called Krust Kutter. Don't forget to acid etch all rust treated metals, otherwise the rust will eventually come back in less than a year.
Very useful information, as always. It should be noted that Evapo-rust - unlike some of the other products here - is safe to handle even without gloves, can be reused several times, and is also environmentally safe to dispose of. It might take longer to work than some other options, but for those reasons, and the price, I think it's still the best option.
I dilute muriatic acid 50 percent with water so ot is extremely effective but gentle enough not to remove metal. It can also be reused a lot befpre ot is no longer effective. That's when i neutralize it with baking soda and dispose of it down the dtain. I think my method is the least expensive and most rffective. I give it 5 thumbs up!
I used this stuff one time to see what it would do to some rusty nuts and bolts. It removed the rust OK but 24 hours later, the rust came back with a vengeance! I assumed the acid etched the metal which caused it to rust worse. Prior to that, I washed the nuts off in water and dried them but that did nothing. I tried another test, this time submerging them in my parts washer full of kerosene. The rust came back while being fully submerged overnight! I never tried baking soda to neutralize the acid. One more thing. I was using a glass jar and had placed a layer of aluminum foil over top of it. The next day the foil was gone and there was these little hair like fibers around it. That was surprising enough but everything within a 4' radius was rusted! I had some plated wrenches on the wall on the "backsplash" of my work bench and the vapors rusted it and everything else around it.
Inspironator - Be careful what you dilute it with; using an oxidizer like Chlorine bleach will produce Chlorine gas, which reconstitutes HCl when it contacts the moisture in your lungs.
James Siebold Indeed, that has been my experience as well (sulfuric acid has the same effect) - the fumes are extremely corrosive but muriatic acid is very effective and it eats aluminum right away as you saw ;-) After treatment I wash the part and dip it in a Citric Acid solution, it is quite effective and does seem to protect the metal from further rust after that. I finish the process with drying and spraying the parts with WD 40 and the metal does stay rust free after that.
I tried a few of these products on my own... the only thing the Coke did was make my old, rusty tools WET. 🤣 Rust Kutter says it is a "Rust Converter". Any idea what the heck THAT means? I REALLY enjoy your videos!
I agree. I typically use it for hard water stains as well and haven't tried with rust yet However, I can see the justification for testing it since the name implies it should: Calcium, Lime, Rust remover
I always appreciate Project Farm's testing. Appreciate your time. I recently had a use for a product like this. I went with a 5 gal. bucket of Evaporust. I let stuff soak for 24 hours before even looking at it. The stuff did great. I followed directions, pulled it out of the bucket and wire brushed it all and resoaked it for 24 hours to get to the deep pitted rust. Rinsed off and ready for paint with ALL rust removed. I believe the key is total immersion and at least 24 hours. And Evaporust can be reused until it eats 1 lb. of rust per gallon.
I like using evaporust for stuff that isn't time sensitive. You can leave it, forget it for a month and when you come back it's got the black coating over it (you don't have to leave anything for more than 48hrs though). I love using electrolysis for removing rust on larger objects. Last summer I did this to my seat rail because it was frozen in the all the way back position. It was able to treat the whole thing in about 12 hours, and I was able to put it back in the car by the next morning.
Great comparison, thank you! For those of us that do automotive work, it would be very interesting to see which rust remover/converter products are most friendly to plastic, rubber, and soft metals. Knowing what cam be used to take care of rust under a vehicle without having to pull everything apart would be very helpful!
Brake studs were a perfect choice for your test . The Kurd kut very impressive. If I remember correctly, the naval jelly was designed to create a barrier layer that is not to be removed. Kurd kutter hands down winner. But in a vertical application Naval jelly will be the winner. great work man!
My go to rust remover is vinegar. When I restored an old 1971 Ariens snow blower I soaked all the nuts and bolts in vinegar overnight then scrubbed them with a brass wire brush. It was alot of work but they came out looking almost new again and well worth it.
I use vinegar a lot for rusty bits and bobs. I let them soak for 24 hours, then give them a quick scrub with a wire brush and rinse them off with some water and baking soda. Been working good for me. The key is the wire brush. It's going to loosen rust significantly, but it's not going eat it completely off like the others. Needs just a little bit of elbow grease.
After having accidentally mixed clr and vinegar one time, and having to evacuate my home because of the toxic gas from the chemical reaction watching you have those two products so close together during this testing had my anxiety through roof.
Are you sure this wasn't two different products. I'm studying to be a chemist but j know that clr is a mix of lactic acid and a surfactant and that should have no issues being mixed with viniger whitch is just a 5% acitic acid mix
This is the second video I had watched of yours, and I just have to say you are awesome. You defiantly put a lot more thought behind your testing than the average person. With my science degrees (mostly in biology and apply Anatomy and Physiology which much applys also some understanding of chemistry and physics)I had learned to do that every thing as well. I will even go as far to say that you put more though than most scientific journals I read to get more honist results and interpretations of your results.
Evapo-rust definitely doesn't work the fastest but anybody who watches handtoolrescue knows that it works pretty darn good. The plus side for evapo-rust is that it isn't super toxic like the rest.
What are you defining as rust? All of these products, with the exception of the muriatic acid, are swapping one oxide for another. Muriatic acid gets you to bare metal, but if you don't neutralize it in an alkaline solution, it is going to encourage new rust when it dries.
@@leesire haha i wish i could but my ultrasonic cleaner would fit a car carb in. Also to expand on what i said before, my method: Split carbs Remove all rubber and jets Soak carb bodies in evaporust for 24hrs Dry off carb Place carb in petrol which is in a separate container into a cold ultrasonic cleaner Cleaner for 20min Dry off using compressed air Spray carb cleaner through each orifice and dry using compressed air
Love this channel watch it many times to make a final decision on some products. A little vibration with all of your testing and you would have had different results. I've used all of the products over the years. Vinegar with vibration works wonders and it is super cheap and Way easier to nutrelize. A couple of those will continue to break down the metal for months after used. Water doesn't stop the acid reaction. Thanks man! Keep doing what you do! You have helped me and others alot.
Hand Tool Rescue - Wondering if its safe to use Krud Kutter or Evapo Rust with an Ultrasonic Cleaner on Brake Calipers (Don't want to cause an explosion, fire, or damage rubber components of the Brake Calipers) ???
GONEWILDFILMS, Should be no problems with Evaporust in ultrasonic cleaner as far as reactions. It's inert. It usually won't harm anything like paint, and labels, so your rubber should be OK. Just de-rusted a pair of handlebars for a push mower, that had a 36 year old label on them with instructions on how to start the mower. Didn't harm the label at all. You want to make sure what ever you are using evaporust to remove rust with is clean. Grease, dirt, oil, brake dust will contaminate it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner doing its ultrasonic thing will make it work faster, but if your ultrasonic cleaner has a heater, that will make the evaporust work faster.
50 years ago, my Grand-pa taught me to use Molasses as a rust remover. The same stuff you buy in the grocery store. I use a 50/50 mix of molasses and water. It does take alot longer to remove the rust than what these test times were, but it is a cheap and non-toxic way to remove rust.
Well yeah, many products will work with elbow grease, even the coke with enough friction (albeit it's effectiveness would be 95% elbow grease and 5% coke), these products are formulated to be stronger so they penetrate without needing as much elbow grease, vinegar is just a weaker acid at rust removal since it's so heavily diulted (most of these are using acids for removal); vinegar is just diluted acetic acid.
Great video. I’ve had awesome results using Metal Rescue. Actually, just this week, I used it on the EXTREMELY rusted ash tray in my FoxBody. I mean it was thick! It took longer than normal, (like 48 hours), but it removed about 95% of the rust. Again Thanks for all your videos!
Great Video! 50 years ago, my Grand-pa taught me to use Molasses as a rust remover. The same stuff you buy in the grocery store. I use a 50/50 mix of molasses and water. It does take alot longer to remove the rust than what your test times were, but it is a cheap and non-toxic way to remove rust. I think I'll try the Krud Kutter that you tested, that really impressed me.
Molasses is still considered one of the best way to preserve as much metal as possible during restorations, but it's very very slow and the large vats will get to stinking pretty badly.
I know I'm late for the party but I'm a big fan of the molasses and water. We used it on body panels and the like for restoration. One of the great things about it is after a thorough rinse it won't have any chemical interference with metal protector (rust inhibitor) or primer. It's really slow and it stinks but never seen it cause any damage to the good steel remaining. Anything that comes out of the tank will rust with a quickness though so it is good to be prepped to work it right away. Rust under paint equals a pending disaster. I wonder why it damaged the engine block though, I've used it on brake drums, cast iron skillets, and some other cast iron parts with no adverse effects. I've even heard of it being used on engine blocks though I never have. I wonder if it's the porosity of some engine blocks. *shrugs*
The active ingredient in the Krud Kutter and Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid. It might be interesting to try a product like a Klean Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch, which has a higher concentration of phosphoric acid and costs a lot less (~$0.12/oz). Phosphoric acid is great as a rust remover because it reacts with the rust and makes it water soluble and does so at a rate much faster than it reacts with steel. When it does react with steel it forms an iron phosphate coating, which slows further etching from the acid and also slows future rust development. Ideally, to restore a piece of rusted metal, you would leave it in the phosphoric acid long enough for the rust to be removed, but not long enough that the phosphoric acid starts reacting with the steel and forming the black phosphate coating.
Awesome information. Thank you very much. You have just saved my motorhome! It would have cost me over £4000.00 to sort out the rust. But now I can do the job myself for only £250.00 and probably a second hand door. Brilliant video!
In addition to my Scout 2 (They LOVE to rust) I have an extensive Medieval arms and tool collection. Vinegar works great and is the classic means for rust removal, plus it's cheap and leaves a natural metal bluing. It works slowly, however. I can't explain your nut results with it.... and BTW Amazon has gallons of Crud Cutter for 17 bucks and free shipping if you have Prime
Stefano Dogg. It's (Krud kutter) The Must For Rust. I also use it & love it. It's a water based product that says to clean the dissolved mushy rust with water, DON'T because flash rust will come right back. You will eventually have thicker rust build up after several weeks. I use either an acetone wet rag to clean it up or I spray acetone then wipe off with a dry cloth. Finally I neutralize the metal with an acid etcher, to prevent future rust, just before I primer it with either etching primer or epoxy primer.
Here's a great recipe for a cheap DIY rust remover. I just used it on a VERY rusty gas tank and it worked great. I needed a lot of it, and a commercial product would have cost me a fortune. So I looked online (which is why the algorithm brought me to this old video): - 1 gallon water - 13.35 ounces Citric acid (available in the canning aisle of your supermarket) - 8.41 ounces Baking soda - A little dish soap as a surfactant. When you put the soda in, it will fizz aggressively for about 30 seconds. Add the soap it's ready. This stuff is amazing. I made about 2 gallons. I just put it in the tank, then rotated the tank every 12 hours or so. And now it's *completely* clean! I dried the tank completely, then threw in about 1/4 gallon of WD-40, swished it around to coat all sides, then dumped it out. As far as I could tell, the rust remover was still working after several days - the commercial product (starts with an E) I usually use would stop working in 24 hours.
Did this a couple of times on an MGB 18V engine. The RTV worked better than the high performance copper head gasket and was easy to clean up when I needed to work on something else (those things were known as tinker toys for a reason)
Maybe also do a gasket dressing comparison? such as copper spray, hylomar, hondabond, the right stuff, or others that you can find. Personally, I like hylomar and hondabond.
Q. How do you sharpen a metal - preparing file? A. Heat file, place in muriatic acid!!! The acid attacks the metal and removes a small amount of metal across the entire surface. However, any sharp transition, like knife edge, threads, extreme angles, and of course, file and rasp teeth will erode to a razor-sharp surface right at that point, hence a newly sharp file!!! This is how the pros do it!!!
That is a good tip, junkdeal. Chainsaw file, too? When I saw he was going to use muriatic acid, I was a little taken aback. I know years ago, brick masons would use that stuff to clean masonry mud spatters and whatnot off their finished work -- gave the brick work a real clean, neat appearance. They would always take extra precautions when using it, though, 'cause it's some really caustic stuff. I guess that's why I was always a little afraid of it. I sorta expected it to do quite well in these tests. LOL
Of course, chain saw files, and in a way, knives and hatchets too!! Any angled surface with a very acute angle will work!! It relies on a principle that acid will remove metal a molecular layer at a time, and at the edge of the device, whatever principle is at play here, is focused at the very edge and molecule removal is focused right there, and it results in a very sharp edge, or point, if you do with this with a nail for example. It isn't a great way to sharpen a knife, since the surface will be wavy, up and down! It WILL be sharp though!!! It works great on files though, but eventually the teeth will be more flush with the gullet in between each tooth, since all the surfaces exposed to the acid will be attacked, just not as dramatically as that sharp edge, and you won't be able to effectively sharpen the file. Add to this the wavy nature of the teeth, and you will have a file that cannot accurately file down a universally flat surface on your workpiece!
Thank you. Learn something new every day. I figured copper could sharpen a hardened metal file because they can easily carve quartz granite according to the egypt guy on our tour. 😐
you are the man! Thanks for making such great quality videos with so much detail and concern to quality products wich can be so rare to find these days!!!! Thanks on behalf of the next generation of DIYers engineers, mechenics ect
I wonder if adding that many nuts, to one cup in a solution, caused some of the products to lose their acidity quicker than others. Muriatic acid is highly acidic, so even with a bunch of nuts it still maintained a high acidity. I wonder how the others would do with just one Bolt per cup, so that the acidity doesn't get too diluted.
If you are using a whole cup of product for a single nut or bolt, it is kind of excessive. At that rate you would need to buy five bottles for a dozen bolts.
Your timing is awesome. It never fails that one of your tests pop up when I am getting ready to tackle a project related to your video. This time, it's a 2007 HD Dyna Low Rider fuel tank on a bike that has been sitting for over 6 years with fuel in it. Nice nasty layer of rust in the bottom of it that I need to remove and treat prior to resealing the tank.
I got a jug of the EvapoRust, It works just as good,, just takes a bit more time, and won't Over eat your wrench. It is water based and reusable. So if you let your soaking tank open to air you can just put some water back in it to reclaim the same oz's
That is exactly the big benefit of Evaporust, it doesn't eat the base metal at all. If you just want clean metal to paint, use whatever. If it's something that needs to stay as close to original flatness like a machine table, or precision fit, use Evaporust. Look at all the better machine rebuilders, and they're either using Evaporust or electrolysis, because it isn't acceptable to eat up the machined surfaces.
@@somebodyelse6673 Right on!!! I bought a gallon of EvaporRust to test some rusted car parts. I checked the parts after submerging them in EvaporRust. Mot much result after an hour, of course, it's not magic. I then checked after 8 hours & I used a cleaning brush to remove treated parts. Wow I was impressed. Then I left it overnight to treat the remaining rust. Wow I was amazed. So I bought the 5 gallon bucket of EvaporRust from Amazon. I pored it all on a large plastic that would fit my bare & degreased Miata engine block. The results were amazing. Even the machine shop was impressed. So now I will be buying an another 5 gallon bucket of EvaporRust to have a total of around 11 gallons. The next engine block to get treated is my Foxbody mustang engine block. That's a 5.0 V8 (302) block. I've also treated my crankshaft, crankshaft caps, the cams, the many coolant pipe outlets that rust, etc. For any one who works on cars, never use muriatic acid. I've also used the Krud Kutter gel to remove rust on my El Camino frame. The gel sticks on to vertical surfaces & won't slide off like the liquid version of any rust treatment brand. Just don't let the gel dry. Keep applying it to keep the part wet. Once satisfied with the rust removed. Wipe of the gel & clean the surface with a wet rag using acetone or thinner and not water like the directions instruct you to do. I'll be using an etching product before spraying an epoxy primer to my engine blocks & the frame. Then finally paint it.
@@patrapper7367 Muriatic acid is very strong and it works great at removing rust. The problem with muriatic acid is that it eats up the metal, especially cast iron & aluminum. The guy on this video also mentions this problem twice. I've used it before years ago only to discover that it leaves the metal pitted like if you poke on a plastic bottle with needles but at a smaller scale. That's what is meant by saying that it eats away at metal. Just keep in mind that regardless of what product you choose to remove rust, always etch the metal afterwards with an etcher acid like Phosphoric Prep & Etch by Klean Strip (buy at Home Depot). It's an acid green in color that smells like rotten egg. Use latex gloves, eye & breathing protection. Spray the etcher acid on the metal after removing the rust, leave on there for anywhere between 2 or 5 minutes then wipe the metal dry. Then clean with an acetone damp rag or simply spay the acetone on the metal and wipe it dry. Repeat the process if necessary. There's a difference between a rust remover & a rust neutralizer. A rust remover does exactly that, it removes rust but the rust will come right back through the primer & through the paint if you don't use an etching acid to neutralize the rust. Just make sure you follow through fairly quick with primering & painting otherwise rust will return no matter what. Use epoxy primer if you can. If not, use spray can etching primer from Rustoleum. If you don't acid etch the metal & you simply use this etching primer, the rust will return fairly quick. Many people wonder why the rust came back in a few months through the primer or in about a year through the paint job; that's why, they don't etch the rust treated metal. ETCH ETCH ETCH.
Would love to see a video testing the effectiveness of rust converter spray paint vs primer vs sand blasting or grinding to clean metal and priming/painting.
@@ProjectFarm Don't use rust converter if you truly want to remove rust, unless you plan to sell the car within a year. I speak from experience because I've tried so many products and techniques before setting with the products & methods that I use. The problem with rust converters is that it only converts the surface rust to a surface that you can primer & paint. Here's the problem: only the surface, the top part of the rust converts NOT THE RUST BENEATH IT. The converter doesn't penetrate all the way through to treat the actual metal. So underneath, the actual metal continues to rust as if you actually did nothing to it. Try using a water based gel rust remover called The Must For Rust, sold in Walmart & Home Depot. Buy acid etcher while you're at it so you can neutralize rust from reappearing. The Must For Rust is water based, it won't harm you. Acid etcher is acid so wear latex gloves, eye & breathing protection. If you don't etch the metal after removing the rust, it will return in less than a year. You will see the paint lift up like air pockets.
@@stankyleg6449 Either way is fine, Krud Kutter or The Must For Rust. I use the name The Must For Rust because it is the larger letters so I assume that's the actual name but if you enter either name on the Internet, the same product will come up. In fact, there is a short instructional video that uses the title The Must For Rust. It comes in liquid & in gel. I haven't used the liquid yet as it comes out in this vide. But I have used the gel. Both are water based. There are 3 products that I use depending on what I want treated. I use EvapoRust to dip car parts to remove the rust. On body panels like fenders, doors, quarter panels, hood, trunk lids, etc., I use the sprayable gel from Krud Kutter/The Must For Rust. Why? Because the gel sticks to the panels even while upright/vertically standing. If you use the liquid form, it drips right off. The sprayable gel can also be brushed on to the panel. Never let a gel rust remover dry otherwise you will have a hell of a time removing it because it turns into a really sticky material that is even hard to remove with acetone or water & a wire brush. Keep on applying the gel while it's still moist before it dries. Use a metal or brass whire brush to some times scrape off the desolving rust. As a final step, regardless of what product you use, or whether it's a gel or a liquid rust remover, treat it with Prep & Etch by Klean Strip brand from Home Depot. This neutralizes the rust from returning any time soon but it all depends on the humidity in your state. If you're not going to paint the part right away, use an etcher primer even if it's the Rustoleum etching primer. But it's best to use an epoxy primer the next day, then the following day paint the part. Why go through so much work if you are not going to paint the part fairly quick. Since we're talking about a part that was rusty, the rust can eventually come back again if you don't follow up with finally painting the part. Last year I bought a 5 gallon bucket of EvapoRust & I poured it into a Home Depot heavy duty plastic storage box. I then diped my Miata engine block in it. I let each side get treated for 2 day since 5 gallons wasn't enough to submerge the whole engine block. After I let it dry on the engine stand for a day & using an air blower, I sprayed the Prep & Etch around the exterior of the block keeping it wet for 10 minutes also using a brush & sponge. Without letting it dry on the engine block, I whiped it dry with clean rags. The Prep & Etch is an etcher & creates a phosphoric layer on the cast iron which not only neutralizes rust, it allows the epoxy primer to stick to it well. Then I used a blue single stage epoxy paint on the engine block. The engine is a beauty. I'm currently in the process of rust treating the engine block on my mustang's engine block, V8 5.0. By the way, you can also use the Prep & Etch to dip rusted parts in it. Be warned, it is a very strong acid so it will remove the rust from heavily rusted nuts & bolts in just a few minutes. Then it starts eating away at the actual metal so special care must be taken. It is an actual acid so use eye, hand, & breathing protection. Anyway, I've probably already repeated all this more than once in the comment section in this same video. Whatever rust remover you use, if you let it dry to the air, it will turn into this white chalk like powdery residue. So wipe it off dry when you think the metal part rust has been treated good enough. Don't use water to clean as per the instructions. I use a little acetone because it dries fast & is less likely to give you flash rust within a few minutes like water does.
Johnny John would your technique with “must for rust” be good on rust holes on a van roof? Im thinking of grinding down the rust using your method of the gel then epoxy primer then doing fiber glass or bondo over the holes then painting , what do you think?
Phosphoric acid, as I understand it, is not a rust remover but a rust converter. I use Ospho. It converts the rust and provides a base to paint over. Works great. Coke? Drive a nail into the top of an unopened bottle. It will dissolve the nail completely in a week or so. Thanks for the video. I appreciate what you’re doing.
Naval jelly is also good at removing the bluing that happens when you over heat steels. We use it at work alot to hide the marks left behind from getting to aggressive with the grinder.
You are amazing bro, i look all over the net for which product it's good for clean the rust on car's frame. Now i think i get what i looking for it. You are super. I wish you all the best bro.
What should I use on my truck frame? Muriatic acid with a wire brush, rinse right after then treat with corroseal or something?? Maybe a full video on THE best way to restore a truck frame-- What you'd personally do to a frame...
Depends on how rusty. I've had good luck on a 1985 c30 frame brushing on naval jelly but if its the entire frame then a wire wheel is about the only way to go to get the biggest spots of rust
A great video, thanks for posting. I tested a couple of rust removers along with white vinegar a couple of years ago to treat the rusted interior of my motorbike petrol tank . Out of all of them I found Evaporust was the best, followed by white vinegar. I left the tests overnight. I still have the container of Evaporust in my cupboard and I'm still using it. I recently used it on a pair of pliers I found buried in the garden and they came up pretty much like new!
i've always used vinegar for removing rust because it's cheap and you can buy it by the gallon but it does take a few days to strip all the rust to bare metal
When working with acids and unknown chemical reactions better use (PVC or nitril) gloves that cover your forearms as well. Just a small drop of some acids or chemicals whose effects you discover minutes or hours later is enough to affect you negatively for life.
@@scottloveday8598 indeed muriatic acid is terrible to inhale and I was told if you get a good enough sniff once it can really damage your lungs. Not to mention it'll eat your skin away nicely and fumes can also damage your eyes so stay upwind. In small doses it's good to clean pool water but you have to wait a certain amount of hours, just like normal "shocking". Gonna try krud kutter that i've already purchased to convert small rust spots on my car (unless someone knows this is a bad idea)
Watch nile red's video on acid on hands. It takes some time before it does any significant damage. If he got it off quick enough he woukd be just fine. Acid doesnt melt you away instantly
I really enjoy your shows. Your methodology is easy enough for me to follow. I once purchased evaporust, then I wised up and read the ingredient (oxolic Acid) so I now purchase oxolic acid from e bay. I get enough powder to make 5-7 gallons for about 17-20.00. After watching the molasses work I will definitely switch, or cider vinegar. Oxolic acid is not toxic but safety measures gloves, goggles, etc wouldn't hurt.
This may seem like an odd thing to do, but my grandfather has done this for years to every one of his all-metal tools. What he does is he seasons them like someone would a cast iron skillet. Once the tool has some age and is losing its factory rust-resistance, he does the same thing he does to his skillets and large flat griddle. If done right there is no oily residue, like on a properly seasoned skillet. This protects the whole tool. He has some tools from his father that are from his father's father and are probably over 100 years old. My great grandpa just died last year at 92. He doesn't use his old tools, but they have very little rust on them because of the seasoning.
Can you be specific about exactly what he does? Heat them up and, then what? I put bacon grease on my skillets and bake them at 400+ degrees for an hour or more.
@@ewoid64 It's really about the same process, you can look up specifically how to do it for tools..might have to do it myself. I'm trying to find a safe, good rust remover for an old three prong grappling hook my grandpa had for hooking dead tree branches and pulling them down before they can fall and hurt someone, thanks to the recent weather we've had where I live I got some old tree branches that are barely hanging on and I need to do what ol' granpa did before they fall and hurt the people who cut my grass..which is usually family for the discount it gives me.
@@ewoid64 If you get one just be careful and make sure you got good stout rope when you use it if you wanna use it for climbing or a good strong chain if you wanna pull stuff around or down. My grandpa grew up on a farm so it could have had other uses..they could have hooked it onto things for hauling around like logs and the like if needed. We live near the woods so that thing comes in handy when it comes to dead tree limbs..or just climbing, but right now it's so rusty I'm afraid I'd get tetanus if I used it and got a nick..I think I'll go with the Evaporust since I also have a grill grate for bbqs I need to derust and I can hit those both up at the same time and keep it around and then chuck it out near the woods and not have to worry about killing any critters when I've used it till I can't no more..even if the gophers and moles drive me batty every summer I don't wanna poison them.
Thank you for another great video. I use white distilled vinegar on a regular basis for rust removal and I've found it extremely effective. The trick, however, is time. I've soaked rusted parts in vinegar and the rust actually foams and gathers at the top of the soaking container. It takes a few days opposed to a few hours.
Krud-Kutter is just a phosphoric acid solution and has its place, however, it is an acid. Evapo-Rust will not affect good metal. Sure, other things work faster, but Evapo-Rust never claimed to work fast. In 24 hours, it works great and does not create microscopic pits like acids do. Even phosphoric. Phosphoric acids leave a phosphoric oxide coating that will fight surface rust for a while, but it still pits the metal like every other acid. For most things, it's probably great, but for times you really want the underlying metal untouched, Evapo-Rust is great.
also need to wash under the sink rub with a brush what helps it. i think why it wasnt the best is because it was so rusted out i think they say to use a wire brush to remove top layer. I still love my evapo tho
I'd be interested in seeing a test where you take completely rusted through thin sheet metal and see if you can actually eat through it with any of these, using tubes or other ways to prevent them from running away and keeping them in a puddle form.
I can testify that white vinegar does work but it takes a while, but it's really cheap, like less than $2.00 a gallon last time I bought it. I once used it to remove rust form a dutch oven and it took several days, but if you're not in a hurry it's great and it is pretty much harmless. I enjoyed this one. Keep the good stuff coming.
have you done a cast iron skillet video yet? alot of misinformation and wives tales to explore there. my favorite way to completely redo a old rusty cast iron skillet is to put it thru a camp fire to get all the old seasoning off and get rid of any baked on gunk. then i use a wet sanding sponge to get it clean and then use pam cooking spray on it and bake that on. another way to build up seasoning quick is to put it stove top and put a little oil then use a big handfull of wax paper crumpled up like a scouring pad and rub the wax paper as you burn in the oil. one of the old wives tales is soap will remove seasoning, but my pans i use soap all the time and it doesnt hurt anything. i think the people who are having that problem arent building up a real seasoning layer they are just working with oil. maybe you can work out a test to show seasoning vs just oil. as i understand it real seasoning is hard enough to not be damaged by a metal spatula and shouldnt be hurt by washing with soap and water.
Soap and acids that eat away or metal spatual are based on frequency, so the more you use soap the more will come off. Its not a On/OFF situation, like many things. What you want to season with is a high smoking point oil, like flaxsse, and I have also seen linseed oil used. I use flaxseed. What you can do is on a camp fire, but it needs to be a good one with heat up in the 500F. So I just put it in the oven on high and then a few minutes in Clean mode. That should do it well. Best way to clean your seasoned skillet is to use rock salt with paper towels. I love the finish it makes.
You should test what coatings protect against rust for instance paint bolts with normal paint/box liner/undercoat/powder coat etc then submerged in a corrosive solution for some time. maybe see the difference a chip in the coatings make
Yes I'd like to see this, too! Also maybe do a longevity test? Leave the test product underwater for some time and do a future update on how the coatings have held up?
No one will probably read this but I fix up cars and sell them on a hairpin budget so for me, some sockets come rusty and crusty and oily. I like to just toss them in a solution for a day and then use some WD-40 after. A big factor for me is “cleaning potential” the ability of a derusting soak to leave nice clean metal and between “Evaporust” and “Blaster Metal Removal” I definitely prefer evaporust. It has a longer “rust proof” lifespan while I let the parts dry, and, so it seems, everything is cleaner. Maybe you could test with that in mind next time. But, I always love the videos keep it up my guy
Vinegar will not only take the rust off it will also take the chrome, nickel, brass or any protective plating, and part of the actual metal if left in too long, I ruined about 100 (High Quality) drill bits, and taps by forgetting about them and had to throw them all away, it may be good for a short soak but I would never put anything I don't want to destroy in vinegar again.
@@EagleMacCassady I've used an etching acid base wheel cleaner on all the chrome on my truck for 2 years. It's much stronger than vinegar and my chrome has never looked better. People come up and ask me what I put on the chrome.
in australia we have 3 names for that wrench. roundover wrench - cos they end up rounding over the nut if used repeatedly shifter - cos you can shift the size i guess the third one is not a very nice name so i'll leave it out lol great vid project farm
@Ðavз the name would be called a nut fucker i think its global the names here in New Zealand are called Crescent Adjustable spanner Nut Fucker they are hardly used in workshops or garages
Used regular white vinegar from the kitchen to remove rust from a shotgun barrel. Created a nice dipping tank using a 4 inch PVC pipe. Capped on both ends and cutout on top length wise. Soaked overnight and all rust removed with ease. Worked well for that old 1970's Wing-Master. I want to try and remove oxidation now on some aluminum car parts, will look into Krud Kutter. May be a worthwhile segue from iron based metals to Aluminum based for a comparison video. Keep up the great work. As usual, no wasted time.
Thank you these videos are really great. One comment on the Rust test... some of these products have really specific instructions on how to remove rust. From that point of view, an alternative test that focused on performance as instructed might be a more useful comparison.... For example Evaporust is far less dangerous/toxic compared to the others but does take longer to act.
Agreed. I've been using vinegar for rust removal because it's dirt cheap and incredibly easy to dispose of. It takes longer to remove rust than other options, but overnight is usually fine and then it takes a bit of scraping and washing to remove the loose rust. It looks like KK, muriatic acid, et al. don't require much to break up the loose rust.
I just made a test with pure (80%) Phosphoric acid H3PO4, and the result was very similar but faster to "Krud Cutter" here. The surface finish was the same and the dark grey surface can also be rubbed away. I am pretty sure that phosphoric acid is the agent in Krud Cutter. And the price of the pure acid is a fraction of that product!
@Joseph - less of a violent reaction requiring a thorough washing, and more of a "natural" chemical reaction you might find happening In a diluted setting via nature. I've used it to "pre-coat/pre-treatment" on iron plates in rough environments; to convert the rust that is present and build a layer of another oxide of iron that is less susceptible to rusting out be cause of moisture.
Thanks for the future video ideas! Please let me know if there are other rust removal products you'd like tested. Thanks again, Todd
CLR: amzn.to/2QnajyB
Krud Kutter: amzn.to/47V6Gpp
Evap-Rust: amzn.to/32mWw0W
Loctite Naval Jelly: amzn.to/2EwdktN
Muriatic Acid: amzn.to/3hmmoA3
Howdy, I just subscribed yesterday. You have managed to become another of the random channels that I enjoy. :)
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
@@ProjectFarm No problem. It gets boring down here and we all need something to pass the time.
Do you know who makes the best 1000 watt power inverter? I usually need it to plug in a 110v 5 amp water hose sump pump and have found myself near no power and have to drive on average about 20miles back to town to grab a generator. Tractor supply co, DeWalt, Duracell all make one but which one can deliver power without putting to much of a strain on my truck and run without over heating after 10minutes of use. I've looked on UA-cam and through forums but all they give is specs of them and not a actual test. If you do happen to do a video on this could you run such a pump on a 50ft extension cord? I know it's a expensive task to ask but if you find yourself needing a project idea I give you my deepest gratitude. Thanks and look forward to a "let's find out" video on 1000watt inverters
I've seen comments about ACF-50 (and the heavier version, Corrosion Block) mentioning that they can also remove rust. I would be interested in that being put to the test, maybe up against other rust prevention products like XCP Rust Blocker. Of course their primary purpose is to prevent rust but seeing how they affect existing rust would also be useful.
The Coke has a great use when removing rust. Mix it with some rum and drink it while waiting for one of the better cleaners to finish 😄. Awesome videos 👍.
Thank you!
davemc187 lol great idea
Haha!! That's a great use for Coke
true it also works on removing battery corrosion.
Project Farm Coke actually works really good when using some tin foil. If you brush a piece of tin foil against the metal with some Coke poured onto it the rust removes in seconds. Talking out of experience.
Please, never stop making these videos. I can't tell you how nice it is to have so much empirical data on commercial products. I like your methodical approach to testing and presentation of data.
Thank you very much! The positive feedback helps!
The problem is, there are only so many things to test. Will be sad when PF reaches the end!
I thought you said he should stop lol
It's only one test per product lol
This is one of the best channels on UA-cam. Your tests are so incredibly useful in daily life when purchasing products. Nobody else does testing like this. Thanks so much.
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm Me too
Project Farm you didn’t lie, you do read everything! Props to you (claps in sign language)
I know I'm probably late on this, I use evapo-rust when restoring car parts, mainly because it does work fantastically and is very gentle at the same time. Also the evapo-rust you can use over and over again. I usually will strain it to get any large particles out and then keep using it. I also usually let parts soak for 3ish days. Also evapo-rust has no harsh acids so if you spill some it's not a huge deal.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Have you ever tried to using it in a car radiator coolant system and keeping it inside for few days ?
@alberta3157 it won't do any good for that, radiator coolant has rust inhibitors already. If you have trash in your cooling system go get a professional cooling system flush. Will do a much much better job.
@@themeez1000 it costs around 150$, they are not telling you if they are using any solution, they just connect a system that presurizes the cooling system and using heated water/solution to circulate for some time.
So I'm not sure about that ...
This has amazing high school science project energy, and I mean that in the most complimentary possible way.
Thanks so much!
Honestly this is so true. Break down why and how the product removes rust. Best in groups
I use Evaporust all the time, but the thing to bare in mind with it is that it's a chemical reaction that is VERY temperature dependent. At normal room temperature it's quite slow, and almost ineffective at below 60° However if you put parts in a pot and heat them up to 100° - 120° it works VERY quickly, like Muriatic Acid quick.
Thanks for the feedback.
Very interesting, thanks
Thanks
Be careful with evapo-rust it will etch a part at the waterline. Make certain to immerse parts completely in evaporust!
Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too.
Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.
Given the fact that it's less than half the price of Krud Kutter, works almost as well, can be used over and over (until it's black, which takes a long time), won't hurt you if you touch it and can be disposed of by just dumping it out or putting it down the drain, I think Evapo-rust is going to be my choice for the projects I have coming up. This is an excellent video - thank you!
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
Oh, obviously you're doing a commercial for the Krud Cutter. In addition to being the most expensive product, you had to soak the crescent wrench for 23 hours to get all the rust off, and in that time, although you didn't mention it, it removed the good metal too.
Muriatic acid would have done the same job in 30 minutes instead of 23 hours, but you weren't bought by them.
@@markspc1 You're a goon....this dude is easily the most non-biased tester of products I've ever seen. Some boneheads gotta hate on everything. You do you I guess.
Krud Kutter is basically phosphoric acid (the safety sheet says
Can this be put in a bottle & sprayed on rusty frame sections on a truck or car?
This guy is the the most concise tester on the net. Hands down. That's some accolade for the amount of people who use it.
Thanks!
I absolutely love these videos. You do a great job of comparing products in a controlled, measured setting--without hyping any sponsored products. It's always a gamble when you buy and try a product. You are doing us a great service by really testing these products well. Thank you.,
Great video and testing setups Todd!
The Muriatic Acid works better than anything I've ever found for removing rust and scale. The key to not losing much metal is short immersion times and neutralizing the acid right after removing the item from soaking with a baking soda and water mixture. I've worked with Muriatic Acid many times over the years and I don't think it is as dangerous as most people seem to think it is. I have never been burned by it even when it has gotten on bare skin, however, you DO NOT want to inhale any of the vapors or get it into your eyes. It will burn mucous membranes rather quickly.
The craziest thing I have ever seen with respect to Muriatic Acid is watching a drunk grab a bottle of it and take a big drink, thinking it was beer. Needless to say, he spat it out quickly and was dosed with a baking soda and water mixture to neutralize any remaining acid. He never exhibited any adverse symptoms from his "big gulp" and carried on his drinking afterward...some people...
How about a video showing people how to "sharpen" old metal files using Muriatic Acid and Vinegar? I've tried it and they both work, but the acid works much quicker. The acid works within 10-20 minutes and the Vinegar takes several days. It does extend the life of your files a good bit too. I didn't believe it until I tried it for myself, collect some old files and give it a try. Just be sure to clean and degrease the files first. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much for the terrific video idea! Also, thanks for the information on muriatic acid. I learn a lot from the comments. Finally, what a scary situation regarding the "big gulp" of this stuff! Thanks again.
Oxalic acid. Cheap, better, and you can leave the part for weeks.
We’ve used Evapo-rust at work and I’ve been SUPER impressed with it. They do warn that it does draw some carbon to the surface, but I doubt it’s an amount that would change the strength of the material. It takes time, but holy crap, it does work.
“Started to eat some of the metal”. That’s not good. Evapo-rust doesn’t do that. Something to consider.
One thing we were able to do with it was remove some rusted and seized 1-1/4” studs from a massive valve body. It will creep in like a penetrating oil, and it actually seemed to be more effective.
Great information! Thank you
I second useing it to free rusted up things. Works 1000x better than wd-40. Not to mention you can put metal parts with plastic paint and anything in between and not have to worry about the evap-rust hurting anything other than rust. Short of needing something rust free same day evapo-rust is king. Super reusable and affordable too
So does the Evapo-rust start eating the metal if you leave it in there for a long time? How long should i let it sit for? I wanna use the evapo-rust on a chrome bmx frame.. will the evapo-rust eat up the chrome or turn it a different color? There’s only a few spots on the frame that’s rusted but the chrome is still nice and would like to keep it ... any info would be appreciated, thanks
@@ladron775 I've not used it on Chrome before but I've used it on stuff with paint and plastic as well as aluminum and brass, I'd advise using it on a small patch of chrome to ensure no discoloration but I doubt you'll have issues. It will not eat away at metal, I've forgot stuff in it for a week one with no metal being eaten. It takes about 24hr to work depending on how heavy the rust is ect, a scotch Brite pad to knock off anything loose is helpful too if you're in a hurry
@@ladron775 not sure about chrome, but it does change the surface colour of the raw steel. Somehow it draws a very small about of carbon to the surface, darkening it. Given that Chrome doesn’t contain carbon, you’re probably fine, but test a small spot to be safe.
No, evaporust doesn’t harm the metal at all, or paint or other coatings. It’s also extremely safe to handle. Their MSDS listings on their site will confirm that.
Thanks for the uploads over the years. I would say that I've learned something useful from every single one. Putting this type of program on youtube is pure genius as I believe almost everyone can learn from these uploads.
FINALLY!! A UA-cam video showing a well-designed comparative study with controls!! Thank you for this!!!! Your experiment has been extremely helpful to me!!! Yay!! Great work!!!!
Thanks for another great video ! An old guy once told me he used WHEY to loosen rusted manifold bolts on a marine engine. He said you could then turn the bolts out with your fingers. He chose to use whey because they used to feed their pigs on whey from the local cheese factory, and the iron feeding pots never got rusty. I've had good results using whey on rusty tools, bolts steel wire and chain. Sometimes I left the rusty item immersed for a week or more. Can be a bit stinky in the hot sun, but put a lid on the plastic pail. When done, wash the item off with soapy water, dry it, then apply a coating to prevent rusting again. As a quick fix, I threw several lengths of chain in pails of used engine oil over the winter. I may wipe off most oil, leaving enough so I can store chain in damp conditions. Or I may clean up and spray cold galvanize or some other pail coating. Whey is cost effective for big jobs if, as I did, you get pails of whey for free from a cheese factory. [ RIP Uncle Billy ]
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
This was fascinating
This is the second video of yours that I've watched and I'm extremely impressed by your presentation. You do a very good job of explaining the products, giving them a good amount of time to work, and using the control to do a comparison. Very methodical and easy to follow. Thanks for work and for sharing your results!
Wow, thank you!
Sometimes you definitely get what you pay for. The Krud Cutter did an amazing job. It’s definitely worth the extra money 💴 in my opinion. I would buy it... and I’m pretty frugal lol 😆. My favorite videos are when the less expensive products/items beat out things that cost 5-10X as much. But hey, we all occasionally have to pay. That’s the difference.. knowing when to save and when to spend. I love the reviews and comparisons. God bless and keep them coming.
Unless you need it done as fast as possible then the Evapo-Rust is the better choice due to how safe it is all around, especially regarding disposal.
Muratic acid?
I clean everything with Krud Kutter.
I just applied Krud Kutter to my mower deck, turned the rust spots white. I plan to use Fluid Film as the top coat. It will be interesting to see how this will work when I hit the wet patches of grass. Normally I DO NOT mow wet grass, but this year (West Central Wisconsin), it has been raining EVERY OTHER day, so I have no choice! Lawn maintenance SUX!!!
Great experiments. Arguably this is more practical advice than, say, whether or not I can run my lawn mower on WD-40 but I do appreciate the bizarre tests too.
lol! Yes, this is much more practical but I enjoy the crazy videos too. More of those coming soon.
Yeah, those other tests are nuts! Pun intended.
But they are soo much fun!
Not completely... Most of the products tested are not known in Europe. But everyone knows the stuff he puts in an engine. What's the point of testing if products are not available (or at insane high prices).
I'm always a bit dissapointed when it's not an engine test because of this.
Project Farm can you try baby oil as engine oil?
Why not try used deep fried fast food oil in the crankcase? Lol
You can't imagine how valuable your videos are. Speaking for myself (and i'm sure every other subscriber), they have saved me so much time and $$. Thank you sir!
Thank you very much!
I love this channel. Just found it recently. Your approach to testing is exactly what I was looking for. You have data backing it all up. **You clearly display all the numeric data ** which I find a lot of other not doing. In addition you provide price to performance comparison. THANK YOU for being what I consider to be a gold standard and why You Tube was created.
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent test/review. I appreciate the cost per ounce addition. One thing that I like about Evapo-Rust is the ability to reuse it. Muti-use lowers its net cost.
Thank you! Thanks for the feedback.
I’ve had great luck with evaporust. I just soak overnight and it gets all of the rust. And no they didn’t pay me.
Coca cola & whiskey is best, after a couple of glasses it makes everything look fantastic....relationship, job, bank account, even rust!
We're gonna test that!
For small parts, nuts, bolts, etc. that will fit in my Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner, I use Evapo-Rust. The heat and agitation added by the ultrasonic cleaner really help get rust out of all the threads and small spaces. For parts too large to fit in there, I use electrolysis instead. Washing soda (or Oxi-Clean) dissolved in water is the active ingredient, and electric current supplied by a battery charger does the work. Another benefit is that what is left over is non-toxic and can be dumped in the yard. That assumes that only ordinary steel was used and not galvanized or stainless steel because they will create a toxic residue. I have used Naval Jelly in the past, but in more recent years I use one of the two methods I just described instead. If I do use Naval Jelly, I like to cover the jelly with plastic food wrap to keep it from drying out, because prolonged soaking seems to work best. I also ensure that I scrub the part down with an abrasive pad and water to remove the residue completely. Great video, BTW.
Agreed - With the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with heat it takes about 2 hours for me to remove rust on small parts with EvapoRust. With the bigger pieces I just put them in a tub and cover with Evaporust for a day or two. I may try the Muriatic Acid though next time i'm in a hurry though for the big parts.
Galvanized steel is just zinc-coated, so it should be non-toxic. It might even be beneficial, if your soil is zinc-deficient:
www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=zinc+fertilizer
Great comment! Thank you for the extra details. Not sure just what I could use this for yet.. my boyfriend has a ton of rusty tools in the garage but he thinks it's weird that I want to clean them up & get them organized on a peg board. "That's like me asking if I can wash your makeup brushes for you..." Fair enough!
@@ncdave4life careful, usually some crap in there too, like cobalt and other compound chemicals... cancer... not worth it, maybe for a tree somewhere
Great video! I've used muriatic acid in the past to restore automotive parts. Although it's extremely effective it also strips protective finishes from nearby metal. Using this stuff in my garage caused most metals in my garage to rust. It completely rusted out my drill press and a bicycle that had never seen a rainy day in its life. Just the evaporating gases caused this. Very nasty stuff.
I also left some bolts soaking in it for over a month and when I removed the bolts they crumbled in my hand.
Love the content!
Thanks. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing!
I haven’t watched him for a while, but the fact this guy isn’t sponsored at all is pretty cool. (It may have changed. I’m at the beginning of the video.)
Imagine when he started the channel, was making zero money, and just experimenting with stuff with his own money with no return.
Good for this guy! Liked and subscribed.
I love this guy, BUT I wish he would slow down the "speed reading" from the "Q-cards"! Don't know how he can talk SOOO fast without catching a breath, but it is annoying at times! LOL
Hardware store employees need to start watching your videos instead of recommending products without any actual knowledge of how well they perform..
Thank you!
lol do your own research bro
Reel-Lentless not true although they are harder to find.
I always loved going into Best Buy, Circuit City, and a few other choice electronic stores to have employees start reading off the side of the products that they were trying to sell.. Let's see; I believe I can do that myself.
In any number of stores, what gets recommended is often a function not necessarily price, but how much profit is made; the staff is taught which brands give them the most profit; in other stores, some employees figure that the more expensive product is the product to sell ( most profit ) .
@@MrPir84free I don't have a problem with them reading off the box, as long as they can explain what the features listed are and mean. Or can explain the differences between products. So it's not just: "well, one box says it has a 2-ohm resistance speaker and the other says it has 4-ohm". Ummm.... Ok....what's an ohm and what do the different numbers mean? .... If they can explain things on that level....I'm good.
You are one of my favorite contributors on UA-cam. The amount of time you spend on your tests is apparent. Thanks for taking one for the team, over and over again
Thank you very much!!
Here I thought evaporust was expensive! I like that evaporust can be used over and over again and non-toxic so if it spills I don't have to worry about it.
Thank you
Evapo-rust is my go to for over night use as it's safe and I live near a water way and want no toxic chemicals to leach.
Kimo Kalihi I also use Evaporust & love it. I mostly use it to dip rusty parts in the 5 Gallon bucket that I bought from Amazon, $75 yeah that's expensive but worth it. I pour it inside the engine block to remove all the passages where the water coolant flows through while closing off any exit areas like where the water pump attaches to. 5 days cleans it very nice to the bare iron cast. I also dip rusted parts in the 5 gallon bucket. If parts don't fit, then I use a sprayable gel called Krust Kutter. Don't forget to acid etch all rust treated metals, otherwise the rust will eventually come back in less than a year.
Very useful information, as always. It should be noted that Evapo-rust - unlike some of the other products here - is safe to handle even without gloves, can be reused several times, and is also environmentally safe to dispose of. It might take longer to work than some other options, but for those reasons, and the price, I think it's still the best option.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I dilute muriatic acid 50 percent with water so ot is extremely effective but gentle enough not to remove metal. It can also be reused a lot befpre ot is no longer effective. That's when i neutralize it with baking soda and dispose of it down the dtain. I think my method is the least expensive and most rffective. I give it 5 thumbs up!
Great strategy!
I used this stuff one time to see what it would do to some rusty nuts and bolts. It removed the rust OK but 24 hours later, the rust came back with a vengeance! I assumed the acid etched the metal which caused it to rust worse. Prior to that, I washed the nuts off in water and dried them but that did nothing. I tried another test, this time submerging them in my parts washer full of kerosene. The rust came back while being fully submerged overnight! I never tried baking soda to neutralize the acid.
One more thing. I was using a glass jar and had placed a layer of aluminum foil over top of it. The next day the foil was gone and there was these little hair like fibers around it. That was surprising enough but everything within a 4' radius was rusted! I had some plated wrenches on the wall on the "backsplash" of my work bench and the vapors rusted it and everything else around it.
Inspironator - Be careful what you dilute it with; using an oxidizer like Chlorine bleach will produce Chlorine gas, which reconstitutes HCl when it contacts the moisture in your lungs.
James Siebold Indeed, that has been my experience as well (sulfuric acid has the same effect) - the fumes are extremely corrosive but muriatic acid is very effective and it eats aluminum right away as you saw ;-) After treatment I wash the part and dip it in a Citric Acid solution, it is quite effective and does seem to protect the metal from further rust after that. I finish the process with drying and spraying the parts with WD 40 and the metal does stay rust free after that.
John Coops, you can also use Citric Acid for that, I buy it in bulk at a grocery wholesaler.
LOVE the clarity & presentation. Got my answers, so thanks for doing the hard work! You are awesome man!
Thank you
I tried a few of these products on my own... the only thing the Coke did was make my old, rusty tools WET. 🤣 Rust Kutter says it is a "Rust Converter".
Any idea what the heck THAT means?
I REALLY enjoy your videos!
I've always thought of CLR more as a cleaner for hard water stains on bathtubs and things like that. Like the videos. Thanks for making them. :)
Thank you!
Me too, if you look on the bottle it says something about removing rust from porcelain and brick. I think it's made to remove rust stains.
Dsdcain I have used CLR to remove hard water stains. I should say “tried” to use. It did nothing at all.
I agree. I typically use it for hard water stains as well and haven't tried with rust yet
However, I can see the justification for testing it since the name implies it should:
Calcium, Lime, Rust remover
Clr has always corroded anything I have used it on
I always appreciate Project Farm's testing. Appreciate your time. I recently had a use for a product like this. I went with a 5 gal. bucket of Evaporust. I let stuff soak for 24 hours before even looking at it. The stuff did great. I followed directions, pulled it out of the bucket and wire brushed it all and resoaked it for 24 hours to get to the deep pitted rust. Rinsed off and ready for paint with ALL rust removed. I believe the key is total immersion and at least 24 hours. And Evaporust can be reused until it eats 1 lb. of rust per gallon.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
I like using evaporust for stuff that isn't time sensitive. You can leave it, forget it for a month and when you come back it's got the black coating over it (you don't have to leave anything for more than 48hrs though). I love using electrolysis for removing rust on larger objects. Last summer I did this to my seat rail because it was frozen in the all the way back position. It was able to treat the whole thing in about 12 hours, and I was able to put it back in the car by the next morning.
Great comparison, thank you!
For those of us that do automotive work, it would be very interesting to see which rust remover/converter products are most friendly to plastic, rubber, and soft metals. Knowing what cam be used to take care of rust under a vehicle without having to pull everything apart would be very helpful!
Great suggestion! Thank you.
My thoughts exactly! Ty
Brake studs were a perfect choice for your test . The Kurd kut very impressive. If I remember correctly, the naval jelly was designed to create a barrier layer that is not to be removed. Kurd kutter hands down winner. But in a vertical application Naval jelly will be the winner. great work man!
Thanks!
My go to rust remover is vinegar. When I restored an old 1971 Ariens snow blower I soaked all the nuts and bolts in vinegar overnight then scrubbed them with a brass wire brush. It was alot of work but they came out looking almost new again and well worth it.
You have one of the greatest channels ever. Actual results.
Thank you very much!
You make amazing quantitative, real-world comparisons. Excellent! They are also clear and well-produced. I'm a fan.
Thanks!
I use vinegar a lot for rusty bits and bobs. I let them soak for 24 hours, then give them a quick scrub with a wire brush and rinse them off with some water and baking soda. Been working good for me. The key is the wire brush. It's going to loosen rust significantly, but it's not going eat it completely off like the others. Needs just a little bit of elbow grease.
Thanks for sharing.
After having accidentally mixed clr and vinegar one time, and having to evacuate my home because of the toxic gas from the chemical reaction watching you have those two products so close together during this testing had my anxiety through roof.
Thanks for the feedback.
yikes haha
Are you sure this wasn't two different products. I'm studying to be a chemist but j know that clr is a mix of lactic acid and a surfactant and that should have no issues being mixed with viniger whitch is just a 5% acitic acid mix
@@putinslittlehacker4793 it was Drano not CLR
@@ProjectFarm I apologize for my earlier comment it was not CLR.
This is the second video I had watched of yours, and I just have to say you are awesome. You defiantly put a lot more thought behind your testing than the average person. With my science degrees (mostly in biology and apply Anatomy and Physiology which much applys also some understanding of chemistry and physics)I had learned to do that every thing as well. I will even go as far to say that you put more though than most scientific journals I read to get more honist results and interpretations of your results.
Thank you!
Evapo-rust definitely doesn't work the fastest but anybody who watches handtoolrescue knows that it works pretty darn good. The plus side for evapo-rust is that it isn't super toxic like the rest.
Great point.
It's non toxic....the muriatic acid....is bad stuff....i restored wrenches that were nothing more than a ball of rust with evaporust.....
Nicholas Korner Just don't drink it...
Nicholas Korner your stomach already makes hydrochloric acid. Its not that bad. Just don't let it sit on your skin too long and protect your eyes.
Your stomach only contains
What are you defining as rust? All of these products, with the exception of the muriatic acid, are swapping one oxide for another. Muriatic acid gets you to bare metal, but if you don't neutralize it in an alkaline solution, it is going to encourage new rust when it dries.
Thanks for the constructive feedback
Richard Harris I may need you to rebuild my carb on my 1987 mercruiser 120 hp
@@leesire haha i wish i could but my ultrasonic cleaner would fit a car carb in. Also to expand on what i said before, my method:
Split carbs
Remove all rubber and jets
Soak carb bodies in evaporust for 24hrs
Dry off carb
Place carb in petrol which is in a separate container into a cold ultrasonic cleaner
Cleaner for 20min
Dry off using compressed air
Spray carb cleaner through each orifice and dry using compressed air
Richard Harris I’ll give it a try. Thank you.
Richard Harris petrol = gasoline? You got a light?
Love this channel watch it many times to make a final decision on some products.
A little vibration with all of your testing and you would have had different results.
I've used all of the products over the years. Vinegar with vibration works wonders and it is super cheap and Way easier to nutrelize.
A couple of those will continue to break down the metal for months after used. Water doesn't stop the acid reaction.
Thanks man! Keep doing what you do! You have helped me and others alot.
Thanks, will do!
I'm fairly sure most of these biodegradable rust removers contain the exact same active ingredient, but the concentrations might be different.
Hand Tool Rescue wonder what concentration is in coca cola ;)
Hand Tool Rescue, Great point! You've got a great channel and lots of comments about the great work you do. Thanks for checking out the video!
Hand Tool Rescue - Wondering if its safe to use Krud Kutter or Evapo Rust with an Ultrasonic Cleaner on Brake Calipers (Don't want to cause an explosion, fire, or damage rubber components of the Brake Calipers) ???
GONEWILDFILMS, Should be no problems with Evaporust in ultrasonic cleaner as far as reactions. It's inert. It usually won't harm anything like paint, and labels, so your rubber should be OK. Just de-rusted a pair of handlebars for a push mower, that had a 36 year old label on them with instructions on how to start the mower. Didn't harm the label at all. You want to make sure what ever you are using evaporust to remove rust with is clean. Grease, dirt, oil, brake dust will contaminate it. I don't know if an ultrasonic cleaner doing its ultrasonic thing will make it work faster, but if your ultrasonic cleaner has a heater, that will make the evaporust work faster.
50 years ago, my Grand-pa taught me to use Molasses as a rust remover. The same stuff you buy in the grocery store. I use a 50/50 mix of molasses and water. It does take alot longer to remove the rust than what these test times were, but it is a cheap and non-toxic way to remove rust.
Im suprised how white vinegar did. I always soak my old rusty horseshoes in white vinegar overnight and next day everything brushes off easily.
Yes, these were very badly rusted nuts and bolts.
Did you brush it off, it works great
Vinegar works well, but it takes longer. The rust will wash off. It won’t etch the metal, either.
My comment exactly. Vinigar need a little wiping to get clean
Well yeah, many products will work with elbow grease, even the coke with enough friction (albeit it's effectiveness would be 95% elbow grease and 5% coke), these products are formulated to be stronger so they penetrate without needing as much elbow grease, vinegar is just a weaker acid at rust removal since it's so heavily diulted (most of these are using acids for removal); vinegar is just diluted acetic acid.
Did you ever do an update on the wrench that sat outside?
I'm sure it's coming real soon now. Nothing else to do these days😜😮😨😢
Yes, ^^^ my question also.
^^^^
^^^^^^
One year later
Great video.
I’ve had awesome results using Metal Rescue.
Actually, just this week, I used it on the EXTREMELY rusted ash tray in my FoxBody.
I mean it was thick!
It took longer than normal, (like 48 hours), but it removed about 95% of the rust.
Again
Thanks for all your videos!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I got a kick when he had to tie strings around his nuts just to dip them in coke
sounds like a crazy night
Great Video! 50 years ago, my Grand-pa taught me to use Molasses as a rust remover. The same stuff you buy in the grocery store. I use a 50/50 mix of molasses and water. It does take alot longer to remove the rust than what your test times were, but it is a cheap and non-toxic way to remove rust. I think I'll try the Krud Kutter that you tested, that really impressed me.
Molasses is still considered one of the best way to preserve as much metal as possible during restorations, but it's very very slow and the large vats will get to stinking pretty badly.
Yep, it does STINK Bad. Small parts aren't too bad. Put them in a 5 gal bucket with the molasses, then put a lid on it. Let sit for a couple weeks.
wow ya i forgot my grandfather mr. shelton told me to do that and he used to do that on tractor parts.
molasses works great on steel, but do not under any circumstance use it on cast iron, i completely destroyed and engine block with molasses.
I know I'm late for the party but I'm a big fan of the molasses and water. We used it on body panels and the like for restoration. One of the great things about it is after a thorough rinse it won't have any chemical interference with metal protector (rust inhibitor) or primer. It's really slow and it stinks but never seen it cause any damage to the good steel remaining. Anything that comes out of the tank will rust with a quickness though so it is good to be prepped to work it right away. Rust under paint equals a pending disaster. I wonder why it damaged the engine block though, I've used it on brake drums, cast iron skillets, and some other cast iron parts with no adverse effects. I've even heard of it being used on engine blocks though I never have. I wonder if it's the porosity of some engine blocks.
*shrugs*
The active ingredient in the Krud Kutter and Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid. It might be interesting to try a product like a Klean Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch, which has a higher concentration of phosphoric acid and costs a lot less (~$0.12/oz). Phosphoric acid is great as a rust remover because it reacts with the rust and makes it water soluble and does so at a rate much faster than it reacts with steel. When it does react with steel it forms an iron phosphate coating, which slows further etching from the acid and also slows future rust development.
Ideally, to restore a piece of rusted metal, you would leave it in the phosphoric acid long enough for the rust to be removed, but not long enough that the phosphoric acid starts reacting with the steel and forming the black phosphate coating.
Great point.
but black phosphate protects against rust, right?
Awesome information. Thank you very much. You have just saved my motorhome! It would have cost me over £4000.00 to sort out the rust. But now I can do the job myself for only £250.00 and probably a second hand door. Brilliant video!
Thanks! Glad to hear!
I know I said it many times before, but great video! I normally use Ospho.
Thank you very much and thanks for the product recommendation! You've got a GREAT channel. Thanks again!
Project Farm I would like to see if one of your engines will run charcoal starter
Basically Karosene
Ospho is awesome.
electronicsNmore
Ospho?
A couple years on, how did the krud kutter work on preserving that metal?
And thanks so much for your honest reviews!
The rapture is soon, repent and Jesus loves you everyone
Excellent study.
Mildly acidic BAR KEEPERS FRIEND works well on my drum fixtures, lugs & bolts.
wow, the videos from 4 years ago are still as quality as 4 years later, keep iup the good quality!
Thanks, will do!
I’m preparing for de rusting under my car before spraying fluid film, this was so helpful, the thorough method of testing products is appreciated.
Thank you!
Why in the world would you do that? Fluid Film will destroy any rust by itself
@@barackobama5304 Even according to fluid films website it is formulated to stop the spread of rust it does not remove rust.
In addition to my Scout 2 (They LOVE to rust) I have an extensive Medieval arms and tool collection. Vinegar works great and is the classic means for rust removal, plus it's cheap and leaves a natural metal bluing. It works slowly, however. I can't explain your nut results with it.... and BTW Amazon has gallons of Crud Cutter for 17 bucks and free shipping if you have Prime
Stefano Dogg. It's (Krud kutter) The Must For Rust. I also use it & love it. It's a water based product that says to clean the dissolved mushy rust with water, DON'T because flash rust will come right back. You will eventually have thicker rust build up after several weeks. I use either an acetone wet rag to clean it up or I spray acetone then wipe off with a dry cloth. Finally I neutralize the metal with an acid etcher, to prevent future rust, just before I primer it with either etching primer or epoxy primer.
Just as always, you've already made a video of something I'm looking for. Rock on!
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching.
Here's a great recipe for a cheap DIY rust remover. I just used it on a VERY rusty gas tank and it worked great. I needed a lot of it, and a commercial product would have cost me a fortune. So I looked online (which is why the algorithm brought me to this old video):
- 1 gallon water
- 13.35 ounces Citric acid (available in the canning aisle of your supermarket)
- 8.41 ounces Baking soda
- A little dish soap as a surfactant.
When you put the soda in, it will fizz aggressively for about 30 seconds. Add the soap it's ready.
This stuff is amazing. I made about 2 gallons. I just put it in the tank, then rotated the tank every 12 hours or so. And now it's *completely* clean! I dried the tank completely, then threw in about 1/4 gallon of WD-40, swished it around to coat all sides, then dumped it out. As far as I could tell, the rust remover was still working after several days - the commercial product (starts with an E) I usually use would stop working in 24 hours.
Thanks for sharing.
Try high temp RTV silicone as a head gasket material to test its durability against heat and pressure.
Great video idea!
Great ideas
Did this a couple of times on an MGB 18V engine. The RTV worked better than the high performance copper head gasket and was easy to clean up when I needed to work on something else (those things were known as tinker toys for a reason)
Maybe also do a gasket dressing comparison? such as copper spray, hylomar, hondabond, the right stuff, or others that you can find. Personally, I like hylomar and hondabond.
Recommend sprinkling baking soda on parts if using muratic acid. Also be mindful of fumes
Great video idea!
Q. How do you sharpen a metal - preparing file? A. Heat file, place in muriatic acid!!! The acid attacks the metal and removes a small amount of metal across the entire surface. However, any sharp transition, like knife edge, threads, extreme angles, and of course, file and rasp teeth will erode to a razor-sharp surface right at that point, hence a newly sharp file!!! This is how the pros do it!!!
Great tip!
That is a good tip, junkdeal. Chainsaw file, too?
When I saw he was going to use muriatic acid, I was a little taken aback. I know years ago, brick masons would use that stuff to clean masonry mud spatters and whatnot off their finished work -- gave the brick work a real clean, neat appearance.
They would always take extra precautions when using it, though, 'cause it's some really caustic stuff. I guess that's why I was always a little afraid of it. I sorta expected it to do quite well in these tests. LOL
Of course, chain saw files, and in a way, knives and hatchets too!! Any angled surface with a very acute angle will work!! It relies on a principle that acid will remove metal a molecular layer at a time, and at the edge of the device, whatever principle is at play here, is focused at the very edge and molecule removal is focused right there, and it results in a very sharp edge, or point, if you do with this with a nail for example. It isn't a great way to sharpen a knife, since the surface will be wavy, up and down! It WILL be sharp though!!! It works great on files though, but eventually the teeth will be more flush with the gullet in between each tooth, since all the surfaces exposed to the acid will be attacked, just not as dramatically as that sharp edge, and you won't be able to effectively sharpen the file. Add to this the wavy nature of the teeth, and you will have a file that cannot accurately file down a universally flat surface on your workpiece!
Thank you. Learn something new every day. I figured copper could sharpen a hardened metal file because they can easily carve quartz granite according to the egypt guy on our tour. 😐
you are the man! Thanks for making such great quality videos with so much detail and concern to quality products wich can be so rare to find these days!!!! Thanks on behalf of the next generation of DIYers engineers, mechenics ect
Thanks and you are welcome!
I wonder if adding that many nuts, to one cup in a solution, caused some of the products to lose their acidity quicker than others. Muriatic acid is highly acidic, so even with a bunch of nuts it still maintained a high acidity. I wonder how the others would do with just one Bolt per cup, so that the acidity doesn't get too diluted.
If you are using a whole cup of product for a single nut or bolt, it is kind of excessive. At that rate you would need to buy five bottles for a dozen bolts.
Can't stop watching these! So good!
Thank you very much!
This is the most metal channel on UA-cam right now! #ForScience
Thank you!
Your timing is awesome. It never fails that one of your tests pop up when I am getting ready to tackle a project related to your video.
This time, it's a 2007 HD Dyna Low Rider fuel tank on a bike that has been sitting for over 6 years with fuel in it. Nice nasty layer of rust in the bottom of it that I need to remove and treat prior to resealing the tank.
I got a jug of the EvapoRust, It works just as good,, just takes a bit more time, and won't Over eat your wrench. It is water based and reusable. So if you let your soaking tank open to air you can just put some water back in it to reclaim the same oz's
Thank you!
That is exactly the big benefit of Evaporust, it doesn't eat the base metal at all. If you just want clean metal to paint, use whatever. If it's something that needs to stay as close to original flatness like a machine table, or precision fit, use Evaporust. Look at all the better machine rebuilders, and they're either using Evaporust or electrolysis, because it isn't acceptable to eat up the machined surfaces.
@@somebodyelse6673 Right on!!! I bought a gallon of EvaporRust to test some rusted car parts. I checked the parts after submerging them in EvaporRust. Mot much result after an hour, of course, it's not magic. I then checked after 8 hours & I used a cleaning brush to remove treated parts. Wow I was impressed. Then I left it overnight to treat the remaining rust. Wow I was amazed. So I bought the 5 gallon bucket of EvaporRust from Amazon. I pored it all on a large plastic that would fit my bare & degreased Miata engine block. The results were amazing. Even the machine shop was impressed. So now I will be buying an another 5 gallon bucket of EvaporRust to have a total of around 11 gallons. The next engine block to get treated is my Foxbody mustang engine block. That's a 5.0 V8 (302) block. I've also treated my crankshaft, crankshaft caps, the cams, the many coolant pipe outlets that rust, etc. For any one who works on cars, never use muriatic acid. I've also used the Krud Kutter gel to remove rust on my El Camino frame. The gel sticks on to vertical surfaces & won't slide off like the liquid version of any rust treatment brand. Just don't let the gel dry. Keep applying it to keep the part wet. Once satisfied with the rust removed. Wipe of the gel & clean the surface with a wet rag using acetone or thinner and not water like the directions instruct you to do. I'll be using an etching product before spraying an epoxy primer to my engine blocks & the frame. Then finally paint it.
@@johnnyjohn8073 why not use muriatic acid on car frame? I was going to use it but saw someone else who also said not too. What happens if you do?
@@patrapper7367 Muriatic acid is very strong and it works great at removing rust. The problem with muriatic acid is that it eats up the metal, especially cast iron & aluminum. The guy on this video also mentions this problem twice. I've used it before years ago only to discover that it leaves the metal pitted like if you poke on a plastic bottle with needles but at a smaller scale. That's what is meant by saying that it eats away at metal.
Just keep in mind that regardless of what product you choose to remove rust, always etch the metal afterwards with an etcher acid like Phosphoric Prep & Etch by Klean Strip (buy at Home Depot). It's an acid green in color that smells like rotten egg. Use latex gloves, eye & breathing protection. Spray the etcher acid on the metal after removing the rust, leave on there for anywhere between 2 or 5 minutes then wipe the metal dry. Then clean with an acetone damp rag or simply spay the acetone on the metal and wipe it dry. Repeat the process if necessary.
There's a difference between a rust remover & a rust neutralizer. A rust remover does exactly that, it removes rust but the rust will come right back through the primer & through the paint if you don't use an etching acid to neutralize the rust. Just make sure you follow through fairly quick with primering & painting otherwise rust will return no matter what. Use epoxy primer if you can. If not, use spray can etching primer from Rustoleum. If you don't acid etch the metal & you simply use this etching primer, the rust will return fairly quick. Many people wonder why the rust came back in a few months through the primer or in about a year through the paint job; that's why, they don't etch the rust treated metal. ETCH ETCH ETCH.
Would love to see a video testing the effectiveness of rust converter spray paint vs primer vs sand blasting or grinding to clean metal and priming/painting.
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm Don't use rust converter if you truly want to remove rust, unless you plan to sell the car within a year. I speak from experience because I've tried so many products and techniques before setting with the products & methods that I use. The problem with rust converters is that it only converts the surface rust to a surface that you can primer & paint. Here's the problem: only the surface, the top part of the rust converts NOT THE RUST BENEATH IT. The converter doesn't penetrate all the way through to treat the actual metal. So underneath, the actual metal continues to rust as if you actually did nothing to it. Try using a water based gel rust remover called The Must For Rust, sold in Walmart & Home Depot. Buy acid etcher while you're at it so you can neutralize rust from reappearing. The Must For Rust is water based, it won't harm you. Acid etcher is acid so wear latex gloves, eye & breathing protection. If you don't etch the metal after removing the rust, it will return in less than a year. You will see the paint lift up like air pockets.
@@johnnyjohn8073 Or is that Krud Kutter? 11:00 look at the bottle and the sloggan.
@@stankyleg6449 Either way is fine, Krud Kutter or The Must For Rust. I use the name The Must For Rust because it is the larger letters so I assume that's the actual name but if you enter either name on the Internet, the same product will come up. In fact, there is a short instructional video that uses the title The Must For Rust. It comes in liquid & in gel. I haven't used the liquid yet as it comes out in this vide. But I have used the gel. Both are water based. There are 3 products that I use depending on what I want treated. I use EvapoRust to dip car parts to remove the rust. On body panels like fenders, doors, quarter panels, hood, trunk lids, etc., I use the sprayable gel from Krud Kutter/The Must For Rust. Why? Because the gel sticks to the panels even while upright/vertically standing. If you use the liquid form, it drips right off. The sprayable gel can also be brushed on to the panel. Never let a gel rust remover dry otherwise you will have a hell of a time removing it because it turns into a really sticky material that is even hard to remove with acetone or water & a wire brush. Keep on applying the gel while it's still moist before it dries. Use a metal or brass whire brush to some times scrape off the desolving rust. As a final step, regardless of what product you use, or whether it's a gel or a liquid rust remover, treat it with Prep & Etch by Klean Strip brand from Home Depot. This neutralizes the rust from returning any time soon but it all depends on the humidity in your state. If you're not going to paint the part right away, use an etcher primer even if it's the Rustoleum etching primer. But it's best to use an epoxy primer the next day, then the following day paint the part. Why go through so much work if you are not going to paint the part fairly quick. Since we're talking about a part that was rusty, the rust can eventually come back again if you don't follow up with finally painting the part.
Last year I bought a 5 gallon bucket of EvapoRust & I poured it into a Home Depot heavy duty plastic storage box. I then diped my Miata engine block in it. I let each side get treated for 2 day since 5 gallons wasn't enough to submerge the whole engine block. After I let it dry on the engine stand for a day & using an air blower, I sprayed the Prep & Etch around the exterior of the block keeping it wet for 10 minutes also using a brush & sponge. Without letting it dry on the engine block, I whiped it dry with clean rags. The Prep & Etch is an etcher & creates a phosphoric layer on the cast iron which not only neutralizes rust, it allows the epoxy primer to stick to it well. Then I used a blue single stage epoxy paint on the engine block. The engine is a beauty. I'm currently in the process of rust treating the engine block on my mustang's engine block, V8 5.0. By the way, you can also use the Prep & Etch to dip rusted parts in it. Be warned, it is a very strong acid so it will remove the rust from heavily rusted nuts & bolts in just a few minutes. Then it starts eating away at the actual metal so special care must be taken. It is an actual acid so use eye, hand, & breathing protection. Anyway, I've probably already repeated all this more than once in the comment section in this same video. Whatever rust remover you use, if you let it dry to the air, it will turn into this white chalk like powdery residue. So wipe it off dry when you think the metal part rust has been treated good enough. Don't use water to clean as per the instructions. I use a little acetone because it dries fast & is less likely to give you flash rust within a few minutes like water does.
Johnny John would your technique with “must for rust” be good on rust holes on a van roof? Im thinking of grinding down the rust using your method of the gel then epoxy primer then doing fiber glass or bondo over the holes then painting , what do you think?
Such a thorouh walk through in this video. Im in awe. Thank you for this review!!👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👌🏾
You are so welcome!
Phosphoric acid, as I understand it, is not a rust remover but a rust converter. I use Ospho. It converts the rust and provides a base to paint over. Works great. Coke? Drive a nail into the top of an unopened bottle. It will dissolve the nail completely in a week or so. Thanks for the video. I appreciate what you’re doing.
You are welcome!
Naval jelly is also good at removing the bluing that happens when you over heat steels.
We use it at work alot to hide the marks left behind from getting to aggressive with the grinder.
Great feedback! Thank you
You are amazing bro, i look all over the net for which product it's good for clean the rust on car's frame.
Now i think i get what i looking for it.
You are super. I wish you all the best bro.
Thank you!
What should I use on my truck frame? Muriatic acid with a wire brush, rinse right after then treat with corroseal or something??
Maybe a full video on THE best way to restore a truck frame-- What you'd personally do to a frame...
Depends on how rusty. I've had good luck on a 1985 c30 frame brushing on naval jelly but if its the entire frame then a wire wheel is about the only way to go to get the biggest spots of rust
@@gunshipproduct2, maybe electrolysis in a swimming pool or pond!
Like this, but on a larger scale:
ua-cam.com/video/8dtDLQHjHBc/v-deo.html
A great video, thanks for posting. I tested a couple of rust removers along with white vinegar a couple of years ago to treat the rusted interior of my motorbike petrol tank . Out of all of them I found Evaporust was the best, followed by white vinegar. I left the tests overnight. I still have the container of Evaporust in my cupboard and I'm still using it. I recently used it on a pair of pliers I found buried in the garden and they came up pretty much like new!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
i've always used vinegar for removing rust because it's cheap and you can buy it by the gallon but it does take a few days to strip all the rust to bare metal
Thanks for commenting on this.
If you have the time, vinegar gets the job done!
When working with acids and unknown chemical reactions better use (PVC or nitril) gloves that cover your forearms as well. Just a small drop of some acids or chemicals whose effects you discover minutes or hours later is enough to affect you negatively for life.
You're right and great point. Thank you.
And wear a carbon mask, you don't want to breathe muriatic acid
@@scottloveday8598 indeed muriatic acid is terrible to inhale and I was told if you get a good enough sniff once it can really damage your lungs. Not to mention it'll eat your skin away nicely and fumes can also damage your eyes so stay upwind. In small doses it's good to clean pool water but you have to wait a certain amount of hours, just like normal "shocking". Gonna try krud kutter that i've already purchased to convert small rust spots on my car (unless someone knows this is a bad idea)
Watch nile red's video on acid on hands. It takes some time before it does any significant damage. If he got it off quick enough he woukd be just fine. Acid doesnt melt you away instantly
@@josephgrainey5048 you might not know it is there in some cases and that is when bad damage can happen
Love this channel. I would like you to test Rust-oleum Rust Reformer paint. I would like to know if it lives up to its claims.
I really enjoy your shows. Your methodology is easy enough for me to follow. I once purchased evaporust, then I wised up and read the ingredient (oxolic Acid) so I now purchase oxolic acid from e bay. I get enough powder to make 5-7 gallons for about 17-20.00. After watching the molasses work I will definitely switch, or cider vinegar. Oxolic acid is not toxic but safety measures gloves, goggles, etc wouldn't hurt.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
A quick search says oxalic acid not safe to over soak metal. Hmm…
I need a rust remover, I thought Project Farm! Bam!! You are one of the BEST of UA-cam!
Thank you!
I've had great results with evapo rust. Non toxic and reusable too. Evaporust needs overnight IMO.
It's a great product!
This may seem like an odd thing to do, but my grandfather has done this for years to every one of his all-metal tools. What he does is he seasons them like someone would a cast iron skillet. Once the tool has some age and is losing its factory rust-resistance, he does the same thing he does to his skillets and large flat griddle. If done right there is no oily residue, like on a properly seasoned skillet. This protects the whole tool. He has some tools from his father that are from his father's father and are probably over 100 years old. My great grandpa just died last year at 92. He doesn't use his old tools, but they have very little rust on them because of the seasoning.
Sorry about the loss of your grandfather. What a great way to keep the tools in great shape.
Can you be specific about exactly what he does? Heat them up and, then what? I put bacon grease on my skillets and bake them at 400+ degrees for an hour or more.
@@ewoid64 It's really about the same process, you can look up specifically how to do it for tools..might have to do it myself. I'm trying to find a safe, good rust remover for an old three prong grappling hook my grandpa had for hooking dead tree branches and pulling them down before they can fall and hurt someone, thanks to the recent weather we've had where I live I got some old tree branches that are barely hanging on and I need to do what ol' granpa did before they fall and hurt the people who cut my grass..which is usually family for the discount it gives me.
@@ShinKyuubi Boy. That sounds like fun! I never even thought about 3-prong grappling hooks, but now I want one!
@@ewoid64 If you get one just be careful and make sure you got good stout rope when you use it if you wanna use it for climbing or a good strong chain if you wanna pull stuff around or down. My grandpa grew up on a farm so it could have had other uses..they could have hooked it onto things for hauling around like logs and the like if needed. We live near the woods so that thing comes in handy when it comes to dead tree limbs..or just climbing, but right now it's so rusty I'm afraid I'd get tetanus if I used it and got a nick..I think I'll go with the Evaporust since I also have a grill grate for bbqs I need to derust and I can hit those both up at the same time and keep it around and then chuck it out near the woods and not have to worry about killing any critters when I've used it till I can't no more..even if the gophers and moles drive me batty every summer I don't wanna poison them.
Thank you for another great video. I use white distilled vinegar on a regular basis for rust removal and I've found it extremely effective. The trick, however, is time. I've soaked rusted parts in vinegar and the rust actually foams and gathers at the top of the soaking container. It takes a few days opposed to a few hours.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
That coke bottle was so embarrassed it tried to sneak off at the end of the video.
lol!
And yet on the taste test, Coke won - go figure!
Hot damn Krud Cutter. Never even heard of it before, only Evapo-Rust with all their sponsored content.
Thank you
Krud-Kutter is just a phosphoric acid solution and has its place, however, it is an acid. Evapo-Rust will not affect good metal. Sure, other things work faster, but Evapo-Rust never claimed to work fast. In 24 hours, it works great and does not create microscopic pits like acids do. Even phosphoric. Phosphoric acids leave a phosphoric oxide coating that will fight surface rust for a while, but it still pits the metal like every other acid. For most things, it's probably great, but for times you really want the underlying metal untouched, Evapo-Rust is great.
also need to wash under the sink rub with a brush what helps it. i think why it wasnt the best is because it was so rusted out i think they say to use a wire brush to remove top layer. I still love my evapo tho
Microscopic pits are great when you want to coat the metal with a rustproofing paint.
James Hough
I was wondering about how much the krud cutter would attack the other metal. Thanks.
I'd be interested in seeing a test where you take completely rusted through thin sheet metal and see if you can actually eat through it with any of these, using tubes or other ways to prevent them from running away and keeping them in a puddle form.
Great video idea!
I can testify that white vinegar does work but it takes a while, but it's really cheap, like less than $2.00 a gallon last time I bought it. I once used it to remove rust form a dutch oven and it took several days, but if you're not in a hurry it's great and it is pretty much harmless. I enjoyed this one. Keep the good stuff coming.
Thanks, will do!
it's been five years. any updates on that wrench?
I'd like to know also, my guess is that it didn't prevent any rusting at all, so he didn't give any update.
It only prevents rust for like a month... maybe 2
have you done a cast iron skillet video yet? alot of misinformation and wives tales to explore there. my favorite way to completely redo a old rusty cast iron skillet is to put it thru a camp fire to get all the old seasoning off and get rid of any baked on gunk. then i use a wet sanding sponge to get it clean and then use pam cooking spray on it and bake that on. another way to build up seasoning quick is to put it stove top and put a little oil then use a big handfull of wax paper crumpled up like a scouring pad and rub the wax paper as you burn in the oil. one of the old wives tales is soap will remove seasoning, but my pans i use soap all the time and it doesnt hurt anything. i think the people who are having that problem arent building up a real seasoning layer they are just working with oil. maybe you can work out a test to show seasoning vs just oil. as i understand it real seasoning is hard enough to not be damaged by a metal spatula and shouldnt be hurt by washing with soap and water.
Great suggestions. Thank you!
Soap and acids that eat away or metal spatual are based on frequency, so the more you use soap the more will come off. Its not a On/OFF situation, like many things. What you want to season with is a high smoking point oil, like flaxsse, and I have also seen linseed oil used. I use flaxseed. What you can do is on a camp fire, but it needs to be a good one with heat up in the 500F. So I just put it in the oven on high and then a few minutes in Clean mode. That should do it well. Best way to clean your seasoned skillet is to use rock salt with paper towels. I love the finish it makes.
You should test what coatings protect against rust for instance paint bolts with normal paint/box liner/undercoat/powder coat etc then submerged in a corrosive solution for some time. maybe see the difference a chip in the coatings make
Great recommendation!
Yes I'd like to see this, too! Also maybe do a longevity test? Leave the test product underwater for some time and do a future update on how the coatings have held up?
No one will probably read this but I fix up cars and sell them on a hairpin budget so for me, some sockets come rusty and crusty and oily. I like to just toss them in a solution for a day and then use some WD-40 after. A big factor for me is “cleaning potential” the ability of a derusting soak to leave nice clean metal and between “Evaporust” and “Blaster Metal Removal” I definitely prefer evaporust. It has a longer “rust proof” lifespan while I let the parts dry, and, so it seems, everything is cleaner. Maybe you could test with that in mind next time. But, I always love the videos keep it up my guy
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing and thanks for the suggestion.
You can get 30% concentrated vinegar on Amazon. It would probably do much better than that store bought 2% - 3% vinegar you used.
Great tip!
You can also get pickling vinegar which can be as strong as 10%, minimum for picking vinegar is 5%
Vinegar will not only take the rust off it will also take the chrome, nickel, brass or any protective plating, and part of the actual metal if left in too long, I ruined about 100 (High Quality) drill bits, and taps by forgetting about them and had to throw them all away, it may be good for a short soak but I would never put anything I don't want to destroy in vinegar again.
@@EagleMacCassady I've used an etching acid base wheel cleaner on all the chrome on my truck for 2 years. It's much stronger than vinegar and my chrome has never looked better. People come up and ask me what I put on the chrome.
Adding a bit of salt into regular vinegar will form a bit of hydrochloric acid, which reacts with the rust faster.
in australia we have 3 names for that wrench.
roundover wrench - cos they end up rounding over the nut if used repeatedly
shifter - cos you can shift the size i guess
the third one is not a very nice name so i'll leave it out lol
great vid project farm
lol! Thank you!
@Ðavз
the name would be called a nut fucker i think its global
the names here in New Zealand are called
Crescent
Adjustable spanner
Nut Fucker
they are hardly used in workshops or garages
Adjustable hammer
We Call Them Metric/American Here in the States 😎🇺🇸
We also call them Crescent wrench's here in Detroit.
Now ,, you could electro plate the wrench with copper from pre- 1982 pennies.
Keep up the good work.
Great video idea!
I really like this idea.
Project Farm
I've made copper plated dimes with a 12 v battery , water, and table salt.... and an old penny...
It works, and they look great.
I'd like to try this, see it in a vid.
I'm sensing a pre 1982 penny vs post 1982 penny vs copper pipe electroplating video coming on.
Used regular white vinegar from the kitchen to remove rust from a shotgun barrel. Created a nice dipping tank using a 4 inch PVC pipe. Capped on both ends and cutout on top length wise. Soaked overnight and all rust removed with ease. Worked well for that old 1970's Wing-Master.
I want to try and remove oxidation now on some aluminum car parts, will look into Krud Kutter. May be a worthwhile segue from iron based metals to Aluminum based for a comparison video.
Keep up the great work. As usual, no wasted time.
Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you these videos are really great. One comment on the Rust test... some of these products have really specific instructions on how to remove rust. From that point of view, an alternative test that focused on performance as instructed might be a more useful comparison.... For example Evaporust is far less dangerous/toxic compared to the others but does take longer to act.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Agreed. I've been using vinegar for rust removal because it's dirt cheap and incredibly easy to dispose of. It takes longer to remove rust than other options, but overnight is usually fine and then it takes a bit of scraping and washing to remove the loose rust. It looks like KK, muriatic acid, et al. don't require much to break up the loose rust.
I just made a test with pure (80%) Phosphoric acid H3PO4, and the result was very similar but faster to "Krud Cutter" here. The surface finish was the same and the dark grey surface can also be rubbed away. I am pretty sure that phosphoric acid is the agent in Krud Cutter. And the price of the pure acid is a fraction of that product!
Thanks for the feedback.
Tried the muriatic acid and it seems to be a miracle solution until a couple weeks later the metal seems to weep the acid out of it and is discolored.
Oxalic acid is a perfect for rust
@Joseph - less of a violent reaction requiring a thorough washing, and more of a "natural" chemical reaction you might find happening In a diluted setting via nature. I've used it to "pre-coat/pre-treatment" on iron plates in rough environments; to convert the rust that is present and build a layer of another oxide of iron that is less susceptible to rusting out be cause of moisture.