@@therealdojj depends on situation but I totally agree. I'll blast everything under a vehicle before I tear down for resto the night before. But, if they are in a place where I can I purposely just snap them or cut anyways. But I agree, prep and thought are key when able. But I also agree with the other guys in time is everything. Most the time these oils are mainly for the exposed threads and having lube with the heat of friction from removal. I find this video entertaining but pointless as well. Besides everyone in the old world knows that brake fluid and apple cider vinegar are the ultimate for anything you have time to free up.
@@slevinkrauss6873 I can't agree with it being pointless, it's very informative and simply laid out The beauty of Project Farm is the simplicity of the testing that many other testers over complicate by giving too much technical information
@@therealdojj I didn't mean for it to sound rude and I misled. It was a entertaining video and as curious as most were... With experience we all kinda know the answer. But I'm the guy that spins the display gear system with Lucas in it at the parts store every time I'm there :)
Everyone else is so impressed with his dedication and scientific rigor and I am as well. But I'm so much more impressed that he said "nuts" and "penetration" 100 times and didn't snicker once! He's like a real adult!
Don't ever stop what you're doing. You're 1 in a million. Most others in your position would've taken sponsorships from companies to talk up their products a long time ago.
I too can attest to that however on my own personal projects I will spray lubricant on the night prior and come back to it the next day. I'd rather be patient than have to drill out a stripped or broken bolt
I was always taught that PB Blaster and other penetrating oils work best if left to work for a LONG time, at least overnight if not 24 hours. Sure, sometimes I spray it on with less than 5 minutes to work, but my experience is that spraying the day before works MUCH better. No hard data to back it up, though. I'd love to see you give the PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and Seafoam Deep Creep a 24 hour test.
Not all threads are seized for the same reason. Penetrating oil does not help if the threads are seized due to physical deformation due to heat or excessive force. This can sometimes happen on even a single thread without you realizing it, and no amount of soak will fix it. I still do a 24 hour soak anyway. If it won't break loose then, I go straight to the oxy-acetylene torch and get serious. Learned this lesson the hard way many times over.
Having been a mechanic at a lawn care company, working around salt rusted equipment, fluid film is not a penetrating oil. It is a protective film for moving parts. I used it on the chains and motors of salt spreaders. PB blaster seems to work the best for penetrating oil tho. Great video man
I absolutely love that you have such a _strong_ understanding of scientific method. I don't like when some people pick and choose when to be precise during an experiment.
@@Projectfusion That's great. For each test, you should ask: - Why is he doing *_this_* test? - How could you make this test better? (There won't always be an answer for this)
My only suggestion is when you do these test, is how about putting the bolts sideways or horizontal rather then vertical when putting on these oils. I don't know about most people but the nut/bot's I usually have to get lose are sideways. So the oil won't penetrate as easily as what is shown in this video.
As good of a video as this is, its amazing to me that your videos have gotten significantly better since 2018. Just speaks to the standard that you've established for what a great product testing video looks like.
@@ProjectFarm hey I've found something if you can find it in your area in which you live i stumbled upon a dye used by a titanium casting company here in Oregon that just so happened was my neighbor who lived next to me worked at the place he said he had some stuff and it had the color of a yellowish antifreeze but the consistency of WD 40 I'm telling ya this stuff is the bomb it will creep, unstick,loosen remove undo just about anything if there was a space in the part when it was new this stuff would get into it and break it free.A gallon of this stuff lasted me 8 years totally awesome liquid penetrant but was florescent under black light and worked 110% everytime 👍👍
I own a plumbing business with my dad. The most difficult part for me as a woman is loosening up corroded old screws. We come across them a lot. Thank you so much
You've got a GREAT channel. Thank you for taking time to comment on this video. I really try hard to provide a fair test and hope that companies and viewers are content with the testing methods. Thanks again!
coviekiller5 The only problem with a video going viral is that you greatly increase the odds of lowlifes, trolls, and other degenerates posting comments on your video. I've been though it a few times, and still deal with it on a daily basis.
I was a mechanic, I used a lot of penetrating oils ! At that time PBBlaster was the best but had / has very high VOC’s .. then I was working on a friends AC and ran into town to get Blaster, but the parts store didn’t even carry it. They had Free all penetrating oil and the salesman claimed it’s better than anything he has used! Reluctantly I bought a can and it’s now the only product I use! I literally drive an hour to buy it if I run out! It is that good, and has much lower VOC’s just an FYI! I always enjoy your channel and the smart ways you go about everything! Thanks!
it makes me VERY pleased to read that VOCs are a consideration and with all the eyes on this vid, the ripples should make a positive difference. well-done video. i've watched it more than once since its release.
This guys videos are really cool. The best part is how is more than willing, even eager for legit criticism. That's the sign of a person who is genuinely striving to be better.
Thank you very much! I like constructive criticism a lot. It has helped me improve the science that goes into testing products. My goal is to give each product a fair test and figure out which ones are the best. I've purchased too many poor quality products in my lifetime, wasting time and money. I want to find out for myself and others which ones are best. Thanks again!
I know pb blaster works. But I wonder how it stacks up here. My guess is somewhere on the seafoam side.. Too bad the world will never know. I'm shocked at how similar they all are.
One minute into this video and I’ve come to the realization that genuinely the world goes around because people like you put stuff like this on UA-cam I’m serious I really think what you do is so important thank you
Liquid Wrench and starting ether. I had a stuck stud on my 76 CASE 580B, and nothing could free it up. Figured if acetone and ATF worked for a lot of people, maybe a carrier with a smaller molecule might penetrate better. Took the best and the smallest I could find (LR and ether) and five minutes later the stud turned so easy I thought I wasn't getting a good grip on the stud. Fifty fifty mix of LR and starting fluid mixed in a very small bottle. Use an eyedropper to apply it to the stuck threads. Don't mix more than you plan to use, because it's not real stable, plus when I tried to keep it in my eyedropper bottle, it destroyed the rubber of the dropper. Maybe a screw top would work, but it's just as easy to mix it as needed. This is my new go to for anything stuck. Use in a well ventelated area.
There are a lot of different types of those, some used to connect to a data logger for testing etc. Not terribly expensive either, but they need periodic calibration.
I don't know about most people but I always prep my bolts the night before the job. I do my own work on my own vehicles. I'll soak them down night before, morning of and sometimes even a few minutes before actually doing the job. I get a lot of guys have little to no time to prep. But that time seems to make a good bit of difference for those that have the ability to utilize the time.
I'm with you. When not in a rush and having the luxury of time, I'll spray rusted bolts for several days and bang on with a chisel. This helped me remove three very rusted battery tray bolts with an air impact wrench.
@@ianmackenzie686 Same here. Unfortunately there are many times where something breaks and needs to be fixed now. In those cases heat, spray and impact.
What I love the most about your videos is, you get straight to the point and dont try to fluff the length of the video, this is the quality content I appreciate.
Jesus is the way, the truth and life, no man comes to the Father but by Him. To believe in Jesus Christ and His blood sacrifice for YOUR sins, you have passed from death to life, to believe not you are condemned already.
The prices on these things have skyrocketed (like most other things). Thanks for the video, your methods are great and the condensed videos make for easy watching and learning.
dude, highly recommend gloves, just had 3 friends in late 50's, early 60's 1 auto mechanic and 2 furnace service techs, who never wore gloves die from a form of Leukemia that petroleum exposure a cause
I just finished a long term employment with a major oil company in the refining sector. Can confirm a suspicious number of Cancer related deaths in fit and younger people with NO family history, SPECIFICALLY around the production of the 'solvent' end of the product spectrum. Specifically Naphtha and its derivatives. LHN or Light Hydrotreated Naphtha(a process unit feed stock cut around the C5 to C7 hydrocarbon range) is used in a LOT of automotive chemicals, specifically brake cleaners and such. LHN is very high in Benzene by weight and benzene is bad news.
Odious Ktenology ok, kind of a misnomer here. Just don't mix pool tablets and organic solvents. Methanol, ethanol, gasoline, they will all do that... Boom.
i agree, i think a way of showing how deep it gets through is simply drilling holes around the material being screwed into, at different places vertically
I do realize that you generally don't have hours to wait but when you do it really makes a difference on what works. I restore cars and I really don't mind when things that work the best take a while. I have used most everything, I think, and found Kroil oil seems to work the best. It sometimes takes much longer than most people are willing to wait but it's my go to.
When working on my own machines, I sometimes let things soak overnight as long as I don't need the machine immediately... Getting out a torch or broken bolts slow me down a lot more than just waiting.
@@medicmule yeah same here. I'm rarely doing just one job at a time, if I run into a stuck bolt I'll oil it and move on to a different job for a few hours.
Me: Never do anything involving any kind of mechanic work. UA-cam: Hey, you wanna watch this 11 minute video of someone testing different kinds of rust dissolving fluids to better work with mechanical parts? Me: "Uh... sure, let's take a look!"
I think the drip application method may have hindered the performance of some of the foaming oils, but I recognize just how hard it is to try to isolate all the variables.
I felt that way with the WD-40, I explained in my own comment but I sprayed each nut down good, waited 15-30 min sprayed them again and went in and they came right off
In the Navy we used wintergreen oil found in the medial lab to loosen slat corroded bolts. Environmentally friendly and easy to find. Also helps with sore muscles.
wintergreen turns into the active ingredient in aspirin in your body, which is why it helps with sore muscles. It's also why you should be very careful with the ingestion of it, and why it should be kept away from kids
@@ProjectFarmHow about testing different 10k winches? I’m not sure if anyone has suggested this but I couldn’t find a video for it, thanks for all you do!
I wasn't going to comment, then I read most of the comments and figured I had to. Some of you might find problems with the whole test, but overall, it's informative and helpful. There are an extreme amount of variables that anyone who works with rusty parts has encountered, but this video was very, very good. I appreciated it.
I agree. I liked the results from the sea foam. My father in law has an old model T he bought. Its a case alright. Motor is seized. I am gonna recomend sea foam
I'm surprised to hear you say that 'nobody' waits three hours to let penetrating oil work in the real world! I was always told by my dad and other auto mechanics that if drilling out or extracting the bolt will be time consuming and expensive, then let the oil penetrate overnight and maybe even put some heat on it and spray more penetrating oil. It's often not feasable drilling out and re-tapping a bolt. Time and heat and oil are your friends.
Right! When I use penetrating oil, it goes on the day before I try to extract the bolt or whatever. Sometimes a couple applications over 2 days. But that's just home use. Mechanics are under more time constraints.
Yep this is the correct way to use penetrating fluid on stubborn bolts/nuts; sometimes a few minutes to an hour will do the trick, but that's just luck. Spray, re-apply, and leave it alone overnight has always worked for me on all manner of vehicle exhaust fasteners.
I am an Aviation mechanic and frequently have to remove exhaust nuts. their mostly under the engine so the penetrate needs to creep up, for this an industry standard is "Mouse Milk" you should try this as it works very well. Very good video.
If you do this check out some of the gun lube/rust preventatives on the market. The one that consistently comes in first in tests I've seen is Hornady One Shot
Stonechip for the bottom sand it smooth and then paint with normal coloured paint of the car + clear coat for the bottom of it Looks stock Totally prevents rust forever For the rest... Just keep all dry and if not possible... Make caps over it to make water gets off of that spot instead of being still water (for like battery/fuse trays with old Fords)
This is great work and highly valuable! Re: Fluid Film - I have always considered it a corrosion preventer and not really a penetrant. I was surprised at how well the brake fluid seemed to work though.
Always fun to watch I can't tell you how much I appreciate your channel and your unbiased/unpurchased take on all things comparable. Please keep up the awesome content!!
Brake fluid alone? NO. Brake fluid and acetone in a 1:1 mix. YES. (No chemical reactions nor toxic fumes to worry about with the mix, or I would have been dead 25 or so years ago.) Aside from being rather powerful stuff on its own, chemically speaking, I think the acetone thins (reduces the viscosity) of the brake fluid, making it even more penetrating, while boosting the brake fluid's corrosion fighting properties as well. Really well done testing. Your dedication to exacting standards of fairness is most appreciated -- only way to get credible results. You've keyed in on the very thing that separates the good from the bad -- DOES IT PENETRATE? If it doesn't, it ain't worth squat. Big thumbs up and carry on.
Tab Lature brake fluid actually absorbs moisture and causes corrosion. Get brake fluid in a ratcheting mechanism and it will absorb moisture and seize the ratchet. No corrosion fighting properties
"...Brake fluids must not corrode the metals used inside components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, ...Additives (corrosion inhibitors) are added to the base fluid to accomplish this....Any system that has used glycol based (DOT 3/4/5.1) will contain moisture; glycol fluid disperses the moisture throughout the system and contains corrosion inhibitors..." (from the Wiki page on "brake fluid") If "moisture" is a concern, use fresh fluid -- an assumed (by me) given. However, for this use, any moisture "drawing" properties of brake fluid are a non-factor.
Tab Lature the system is sealed to slow the absorption of moisture but in poorly maintained systems the lines may corrode faster from the inside than the outside
Moisture absorption of brake fluid, as I stated above, is a non-factor in this use -- has absolutely no impact on its efficacy as a penetrant. What I was refuting with my previous post was this, your incorrect statement: "No corrosion fighting properties." Agreed on the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid. That's precisely the reason for the added corrosion inhibitors.
I really enjoy it when you put all the graphs in the end of the video again, before your closing summary. Makes it way easier to find and reference the information you found in your tests. Please go back to doing this in your newer videos.
@@paulcopeland9035 for science, shits and giggles. I mean, some of those even advertise that they work even upside down, whether that holds up to their claim and whether other products can do similar. Im curious too Also video did ask for recommendations for ideas
That is pointless. When you're conducting tests to determine if a product simply works as intended, any scientist would start with a basic test. If the product fails on a basic test, then you have your answer without creating multiple situations. When the product demonstrates an ability to work under simple conditions, this would then be the time to change the test.
Re Brake fluid: people who don't see it on a regular basis may not know it can be highly corrosive. Trash the nut and bolt when possible, otherwise clean it off very well using a degreaser and coat with anti-seize.
That is close to what I was thinking; that brake fluid is a terrible idea, because it is highly corrosive, and the normal person doesn't realize that. Ouch!
It's not so much corrosive, it's that it's hygroscopic and cuts through oil and paint. You end up holding water directly against the metal. I don't think DOT 5 has this issue, 5 is a silicone based fluid that doesn't take water... it's DOT 3/4 and 5.1 that are ester based and do this. Funny thing is, in a completely sealed system DOT 5 has corrosion problems... it won't absorb any existing water in the system. that water will find a nice spot and sit there slowly eating the corner of a line or cylinder... Anyhow, DOT3/4 on a bolt/nut isn't a reason to trash it, but degreaser isn't going to do as well as plain water in getting all the glycol esters off the surface. Drop it in a plastic cup of clean high quality H20 and swirl....
"No one in the real world will wait three hours for penetrating oils to work." So I shouldn't mention that for the rusted screws holding the licence plate bulbs in on my car I sprayed them every morning before I went to work for a week before I got the loose on Saturday?
Yes, even over night, spraying them multiple times would see reasonable. Having a little patience can payoff, or at least save you bigger troubles later...
Bill Alexander for personal use that makes a lot of sense and would be recommended. Penetrating oils do indeed work with continuous application over a period of time. For commercial use mechanics don’t have any extra time to be waiting unless they absolutely have to. Luckily for us, waiting just a little bit (an hour or less) does make a difference. If it doesn’t, there’s always a torch :D
@@reidhanson4755 Agree, professional mechanics have to work to some predictable level of productivity. The only thing I can do at the productivity level of a professional mechanic is to rebuild the carburetor on my boat. For most things I think I am at about 20% the productivity of a professional mechanic. It is interesting to work on things however and helps save money.
You have an interesting mind for finding ways to test products, I find your methods reassuring since they demonstrate clear differences and visible evidence, rather than just some arbitrary figures. Your explanations are great, I like knowing the decisions behind the controls taken when carrying out a test.
It makes sense in a real world, professional mechanics environment that you'd want the stuff working immediately. Time is money. . I, however am a trucker that works on my own vehicles and if I'm working on a project that could be difficult, I'll let it soak for 24 hours,. I'd love to see a 24 hour soak test of all products you've tested up until now.. Great work!!
Years ago, when I was around 20, I knew this old man that owned some property next to the place at which I worked. If I remember correctly, he was in his late 80s at that time. I'm sure he is gone by now. At any rate, he was retired but when he worked, he was a chemist. He used to come into my work just to sit on the bench and talk to me or whoever happened to be there. You know how old people are. I didn't mind. He worked for Boeing and JPL in the fuel research and development field. I like talking to him because he was a genius. Before he worked at those places, he worked for the company that makes WD40. I am not sure if he was a consultant or an actual employee. But he told me that WD40 is the worst product out there. He said that it will most likely not do anything that the makers claim it will. It is a terrible lubricant and everything else. He told me that the company's main and often only concern was how it smelled. That was the secret to WD40's success. Just the smell. The makers claimed that it didn't matter if it worked or not. There had been better formulas, cheaper production methods, etc. But if any of those things made it smell any different, it was a no-go. I don't know if this is true or not. I am just telling you what I had been told. But, I don't see any reason for this old man to lie about that. I still think about that once in a while. I avoid WD40.
WD40 is amazing for cleaning tools and the rubber handles. Keeps them looking like new. It also keeps my metals tools from rusting. I do not use it as a penetrant oil.
Wd 40 works well as 2 stroke fuel in a pinch.... got a gallon jug for free, tried it since gas had water in it in a weed whacker I was messing with for fun. It actually ran, and well...
This. Also I found it funny people moaned about a 3 hour test. I've grown accustomed to soaking stuff in PB Blaster under my Jeep a day prior to wrenching on it because I'm not a glutton for punishment.
Well I've had experiences with WD...and basically just spray it, leave couple mins, smash with a hammer few times(to kick the rust out). Spray again, wait a few mins. ;)
@@mistercrimesb I cannot wait a few minutes though. I start twisting and trying immediately after spraying. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I only have patience when I go fishing. 'Melting' rust I cannot wait.
The variance per sample is pretty large. To really fix it you would need a lot more than four bolts per test but I understand that's probably not reasonable in this context. What you could do instead is to put +-1 standard deviation on the plot. That would make it clear that the difference between products is due to more than just the margin of error. As it stands your data implies that fluid film and wd-40 actually make it harder to remove them because those products average breakaway torque is higher than the control, and I don't believe that is really the case. Good work overall.
Colin Hart I definitely second this. The Idea for the Video was great but the results should have been reviewed with advanced statistical methods to give them meaning. Unfortunately I don't know a good way to get consistent corrosion and having a much bigger sample size is just over the top
I made a quick ANOVA test on the results, which is used to see if there is a difference between the population means. And it concluded that there isn't a significant difference between the products.
Y'know, I wasn't interested in this at all. I don't even know why it's in my suggestions. I don't care about mechanics nor the whole thing surrounding them. But throughout watching this I found myself fascinated with it all, and throughout the entire video I was thinking "Man, I bet this would be great to watch with my dad." I've never wanted to watch something with my dad in my life.
Good job, well thought out. I disagree with the time constraint thinking though. I will often spray down bolts I expect a problem with the day before I start the job, allowing it to sit overnight if possible. (Automotive exhaust bolts for example) I don’t really know this makes a difference but my Grandpa said it did and he was right about a lot of stuff. He passed away many years ago and I still use a lot of the stuff he taught me (I’m 55 now). More homage than science I guess, but it does seem to help. I will use brake fluid if penetrating oil isn’t available but it does remove paint so it takes some care on painted things that will be visible after the job is done. Thumbs up on the video!
AngryRed Banjo I was going to comment this same thing, my dad has always taught me that. Spray The bolts a day or two before you do the job(if you can)
You are my go to video expert/scientist when it comes to settling arguments with my friends on superior products. Nobody performs tests on the same degree as you. Thanks for your work
I have been very impressed with CRC products, especially the 3-36 from Australia it's a multi-purpose lube and corrosion inhibitor. Everything electrical/switches started working almost immediately. Window switch started working on the first try .steering clock needed some wiggling but started working on the 3rd cruise press. When I can use heat, the penetrating oil will flow throughout the threaded area most of the times I've tried it. Thanks for your vigorous work. I really appreciate your videos 👍
The test is very well designed. There are many variations and conditions to factor in allowing an accurate decision to be made. Just by having more than one bolt tested for each product under the same procedure eliminates many test variables. Nice work. I do so enjoy!
We got a free scooter from our neighbor. The kick push kind with a flexible dual wheel front end for turning. The wheels were locked up and rusted. They barley turned at all and made horrible noises. With a few squirts of WD40, some forced movement, and a few more squirts, it was back to normal. Amazing stuff!
NickPDX22 year but it won't stick around forever, wd is okay for that kind of stuff, but you need to get some grease in there. I personally use Kroil for rust.
In the actual real world people apply penetrating fluid and give it 5 minutes before viciously attack the nut again with every tool they have in their arsenal.
Kroil penetrate oil is an rust penetrate oil that I would like to have seen in your test. I use it at work and has done a good job for me. Love to see how it stacks against the rest.
I wouldn't say that "no one waits 3 hours for penetrating fluid to do it's job". I've waited several days, and reapplied penetrating fluid to some items that I had to try and save due to rarity or expense in replacing if not successfully separated.
Project Farm could it be then that since so many say theres different methods they use to actually use the product, that could be another test. The one hour application as here, the 3 hour wait (would also tie in your other results), the overnight, the liberal overspray, the double application, apply and give it a quick jerk twist, quick blast with a tiny blowtorch to warm it before application (although not heating it past the oil flashpoint), and of course 'the directions on the can'.
TurboHawkV6 I also will wait if I'm trying to fix an expensive part. Would rather blow a can costing$3.50-7.50 vs a $200+ part that takes forever to get by mail.
I got a flat belt grinding arbor that I worked on for about a year. It was my grandfather's and he didn't get it new. Then it sat in his damp cellar doing nothing for decades before I inherited it. About once a week I'd spray it up and heat it with a propane torch. Put a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer. Then spray it up some more and let it sit. It's on the top right in this picture i.imgur.com/NPvxnch.jpg I wanted to change that flat belt pulley to a V belt that I could drive. I made that frame custom to sit right where it is.
This is my favorite site. Some guys who are subject matter experts beat you up a little. No worries. They know a lot about that one subject. Most of them flaunt their knowledge in a courteous way educating others who want to go that deep. For the rest of us who on a broad talent and skill field want to do our best, jack of all trades - master of none, you hit the bulls eye. Thanks for giving us knowledge to the equipment 99% of us jacks want, need and use. Good job!😊
@@ProjectFarm Yeah it was pleasant to watch , I see you put alot of work into it. And for someone thats into this it have alot of usefull informations.
Project Farm I'd also like to see this and to cover both test do a set of bolts like you did in this video and a second set like you did in the other and see if the results stay the same
I am hooked on your testing / comparison teqnick….I actually shop and buy whatever is best in each of your projects……i’m 76 & have trouble w/ memory & ( without malice ) understanding fast talking
I have always had great results from all Seafoam products. I'm not too sure about brake fluid loosening nuts and bolts however, Dot 3 makes an excellent paint remover. Good job as always Todd.
Richard, that can easily be seen that way yes. Without a real name for the user name, the face is probably fake too. That was my other honest thought. I had gone with the kinder one. lol Hey, I'm all kinds of entertaining if I can be if I can attract someone to check out my content. :) Automotive technician here.
Give Superzilla a try, I bought some before I was restoring a 66 Chevy truck and I think this stuff works better than anything I have used in 40 years👍😊
Have you given thought to doing the plexiglass one but seeing if the penetrant will work upwards? Not all bolts are facing so that you can apply it from the top. Seeing if it wicks upwards would be interesting
09ThunderOne only penetrate oil that I've seen creep up was the DURALUBE penetrate that came in a pump spray can. Not arasol . I'd put a drip on rusty metal and it would grow to half dollar size with in mins. I've never found it again anywhere
I think that's an awesome idea cause on equipment there's always some that are upside down. Plus that plexiglass is awesome idea But wondering if it were molded on the bolt instead of being threaded or maybe put lock tite on it as you thread it on
THE best penetrant is 50/50 acetone and ATF. NOTHING else comes close!! P.S. only mix small amount because the acetone evaporates and you will need to add a bit more next time you want to use it. Also, do not be impatient, leave at least overnight. This was first used by the U.S. Military in WW2. (even though I am an Aussie. )
Hell one hour isn’t realistic. I give them about 30 seconds before I start cranking on them.
I give it maybe 4-5 minutes.. sometimes. Lol.
It's about being prepared
If I knownive got a job to do I spray the stuff in sometimes days in advance just to make sure 👍
@@therealdojj depends on situation but I totally agree. I'll blast everything under a vehicle before I tear down for resto the night before. But, if they are in a place where I can I purposely just snap them or cut anyways. But I agree, prep and thought are key when able. But I also agree with the other guys in time is everything. Most the time these oils are mainly for the exposed threads and having lube with the heat of friction from removal. I find this video entertaining but pointless as well. Besides everyone in the old world knows that brake fluid and apple cider vinegar are the ultimate for anything you have time to free up.
@@slevinkrauss6873 I can't agree with it being pointless, it's very informative and simply laid out
The beauty of Project Farm is the simplicity of the testing that many other testers over complicate by giving too much technical information
@@therealdojj I didn't mean for it to sound rude and I misled. It was a entertaining video and as curious as most were... With experience we all kinda know the answer. But I'm the guy that spins the display gear system with Lucas in it at the parts store every time I'm there :)
I love how he replies to comments on a 3 year old video, now that's dedication.
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm Thumbs up and comment just for replying to the comment of how you comment on a 3 years old video..lol
We are going to test that😉
Its a bot that replys
I'd love to be friends with him and do these tests
This guy always does every test the RIGHT way, and most controlled I've found compared to the rest of the UA-camrs👌
I appreciate that!
I agree, love watching this guy's comparisons, he's saved me from buying crappy products, the companies that he shows are best SHOULD pay him a fee.
yes you are right
I agree he is pretty thorough on things he does
Project Farm probably cause he made it p
Everyone else is so impressed with his dedication and scientific rigor and I am as well. But I'm so much more impressed that he said "nuts" and "penetration" 100 times and didn't snicker once! He's like a real adult!
You need better friends.
Sad the copied comment got more attention
Uh....he said "nuts"....huh huh huh! -- Beavis from Bevis and Butt-Head
@@Friend_of_the_One-Eyed_Ladies Better implies that I have any to begin with
@fosterpainter 2 people aren't as cool as you
Don't ever stop what you're doing. You're 1 in a million. Most others in your position would've taken sponsorships from companies to talk up their products a long time ago.
Thank you very much!
He did by not trying PB Blaster that's the best there is and works in seconds
The fact that this guy takes the time to reply to his viewers comments makes me happy. Take my sub.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Same
The fact that he still replies to comments on videos that he uploaded over 2 years ago is what I like.
"in the real world, no one waits three hours before doing the job"
as a government employee I can tell you that you are wrong.
lol. This is hilarious!
Lmao
lol truth
I too can attest to that however on my own personal projects I will spray lubricant on the night prior and come back to it the next day. I'd rather be patient than have to drill out a stripped or broken bolt
Jon long I wait 15 minutes.
I was always taught that PB Blaster and other penetrating oils work best if left to work for a LONG time, at least overnight if not 24 hours. Sure, sometimes I spray it on with less than 5 minutes to work, but my experience is that spraying the day before works MUCH better. No hard data to back it up, though. I'd love to see you give the PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, and Seafoam Deep Creep a 24 hour test.
Thanks for the video idea.
PB Blaster has been around forever I think since the 50's I was surprised to not see it here to be tested.
Exactly!!! Add pb blaster to the lineup
@@ayodeledavidakinpelu7936he tested PB blaster in the video before this it was actually one of the worst performing ones
Not all threads are seized for the same reason. Penetrating oil does not help if the threads are seized due to physical deformation due to heat or excessive force. This can sometimes happen on even a single thread without you realizing it, and no amount of soak will fix it. I still do a 24 hour soak anyway.
If it won't break loose then, I go straight to the oxy-acetylene torch and get serious. Learned this lesson the hard way many times over.
Having been a mechanic at a lawn care company, working around salt rusted equipment, fluid film is not a penetrating oil. It is a protective film for moving parts. I used it on the chains and motors of salt spreaders. PB blaster seems to work the best for penetrating oil tho. Great video man
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
Agreed. PB blaster is my absolute favorite
Right blaster! Kroil or mmo are good choices.
@@hillbilly4christ638 kano nashville tn higher than a cat's back great stuff but yes pb is my winner for the $
Correct.
I absolutely love that you have such a _strong_ understanding of scientific method.
I don't like when some people pick and choose when to be precise during an experiment.
Thanks!
I use these videos to teach my students the scientific method.
@@Projectfusion That's great.
For each test, you should ask:
- Why is he doing *_this_* test?
- How could you make this test better? (There won't always be an answer for this)
My only suggestion is when you do these test, is how about putting the bolts sideways or horizontal rather then vertical when putting on these oils. I don't know about most people but the nut/bot's I usually have to get lose are sideways. So the oil won't penetrate as easily as what is shown in this video.
there is no scientific method
As good of a video as this is, its amazing to me that your videos have gotten significantly better since 2018. Just speaks to the standard that you've established for what a great product testing video looks like.
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm hey I've found something if you can find it in your area in which you live i stumbled upon a dye used by a titanium casting company here in Oregon that just so happened was my neighbor who lived next to me worked at the place he said he had some stuff and it had the color of a yellowish antifreeze but the consistency of WD 40
I'm telling ya this stuff is the bomb it will creep, unstick,loosen remove undo just about anything if there was a space in the part when it was new this stuff would get into it and break it free.A gallon of this stuff lasted me 8 years totally awesome liquid penetrant but was florescent under black light and worked 110% everytime 👍👍
He should have tested Q20 as well. The original.
I own a plumbing business with my dad. The most difficult part for me as a woman is loosening up corroded old screws. We come across them a lot. Thank you so much
Thanks for the feedback.
i could help you unclog your pipes
yikes bro.. @@BH-gh6qm
@@BH-gh6qmlmao 😅
@@BH-gh6qm😹😹
Some companies love you, and some aren't too happy with you, but your viewers love what you do. 😀
You've got a GREAT channel. Thank you for taking time to comment on this video. I really try hard to provide a fair test and hope that companies and viewers are content with the testing methods. Thanks again!
+
electronicsNmore well said
coviekiller5 The only problem with a video going viral is that you greatly increase the odds of lowlifes, trolls, and other degenerates posting comments on your video. I've been though it a few times, and still deal with it on a daily basis.
This video right here is just one reason why I love this channel.
I was a mechanic, I used a lot of penetrating oils ! At that time PBBlaster was the best but had / has very high VOC’s .. then I was working on a friends AC and ran into town to get Blaster, but the parts store didn’t even carry it. They had Free all penetrating oil and the salesman claimed it’s better than anything he has used! Reluctantly I bought a can and it’s now the only product I use! I literally drive an hour to buy it if I run out! It is that good, and has much lower VOC’s just an FYI! I always enjoy your channel and the smart ways you go about everything! Thanks!
Great feedback on the Free All! Thank you
it makes me VERY pleased to read that VOCs are a consideration and with all the eyes on this vid, the ripples should make a positive difference.
well-done video. i've watched it more than once since its release.
I will give it a shot too for my diy .thank you .that is the one with blue writings on the label right?
What is VOC?
@@americanstriper8666 volatile organic compond
This guys videos are really cool. The best part is how is more than willing, even eager for legit criticism. That's the sign of a person who is genuinely striving to be better.
Thank you very much! I like constructive criticism a lot. It has helped me improve the science that goes into testing products. My goal is to give each product a fair test and figure out which ones are the best. I've purchased too many poor quality products in my lifetime, wasting time and money. I want to find out for myself and others which ones are best. Thanks again!
I totally agree!! Great video, very detailed & he listens and communicates w/his audience!! Im about to subscribe!
vuduhwy completely agree. My favorite channel on youtube
I really don't know why UA-cam showed this to me, but I am pretty happy. Great vid!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hahah i have no reason to have got this as a prompt either , but glad I did great vid lets bump that algorithm and comment and like
+1
Same here
Same.
Let's all take a minute to appreciate the time it took to make this video, just in an attempt to save our knuckles from snapping off bolts.
Thank you very much!
3 hours waiting compared to a headache of drilling and retapping threads
@@plageran Patience is a virtue.
@@jeremyc4893 yup
always remember, every 2 hour job is one broken bolt away from becoming a 3 day ordeal.
PB Blaster would be what I want to see, that's been my go to for years.
Thanks for the video idea.
Same here. PB Blaster should be compared to the ones that actually worked on this video
I know pb blaster works. But I wonder how it stacks up here. My guess is somewhere on the seafoam side.. Too bad the world will never know. I'm shocked at how similar they all are.
I chose Mopar penetrant over Pb!
PB Blaster for the win! If that dont work, break out the torch.
It's amazing to see how much the presentation of this channel has improved over the years.
Thanks!
Only rational to expect it; success requires constant development/improvement. In the long term, 'Status Quo' is bad for business success.
I thought you said penetration
me at 3 am: time to go sleep
also me: watches video about penetrating oil
Subbotnik 4:45 am currently
Try explaining to anyone why penetrating lube videos at 3 am is perfectly normal
Right here with ya.
Me right now
Need to get out more
I loved this video as an auto technician deep creep is my go to. Usually I wait 30 minutes after with very little applied! It’s never failed me.
That is awesome!
Try Kano's Aero-Kroil sometime.
I like seafoam but have switched to Aero-Kroil for the tough jobs.
Use the Heat wrench
I'm ordering 2 cans now!!
One minute into this video and I’ve come to the realization that genuinely the world goes around because people like you put stuff like this on UA-cam I’m serious I really think what you do is so important thank you
You are welcome!
Pretty sure the world went around before youtube!
@@tenncutt Nope. It was flat.
@@wascawywabbit0987 oh yeah i forgot. Wait I thought it still was...
@@tenncutt :)
Liquid Wrench and starting ether. I had a stuck stud on my 76 CASE 580B, and nothing could free it up. Figured if acetone and ATF worked for a lot of people, maybe a carrier with a smaller molecule might penetrate better. Took the best and the smallest I could find (LR and ether) and five minutes later the stud turned so easy I thought I wasn't getting a good grip on the stud.
Fifty fifty mix of LR and starting fluid mixed in a very small bottle. Use an eyedropper to apply it to the stuck threads. Don't mix more than you plan to use, because it's not real stable, plus when I tried to keep it in my eyedropper bottle, it destroyed the rubber of the dropper. Maybe a screw top would work, but it's just as easy to mix it as needed.
This is my new go to for anything stuck. Use in a well ventelated area.
Thanks for sharing.
What's LR and ether?
@@rahulbindhu liquid wrench & starting fluid
That electronic torque gizmo is sweet.
Thank you!
There are a lot of different types of those, some used to connect to a data logger for testing etc. Not terribly expensive either, but they need periodic calibration.
Now i see why UA-cam recommended me this video
That space pen is sweet!
I dare you to durability test me
I don't know about most people but I always prep my bolts the night before the job. I do my own work on my own vehicles. I'll soak them down night before, morning of and sometimes even a few minutes before actually doing the job.
I get a lot of guys have little to no time to prep. But that time seems to make a good bit of difference for those that have the ability to utilize the time.
I'm with you. When not in a rush and having the luxury of time, I'll spray rusted bolts for several days and bang on with a chisel. This helped me remove three very rusted battery tray bolts with an air impact wrench.
@@ianmackenzie686 Same here.
Unfortunately there are many times where something breaks and needs to be fixed now. In those cases heat, spray and impact.
Soak in the evening, wrestle in the morning. Ye Olde '40 works just fine if ya give it time.
I just get out the breaker bars and impact wrenches and just start busting nuts all over the place
@@trevorm7013 skeet skeet skeet
What I love the most about your videos is, you get straight to the point and dont try to fluff the length of the video, this is the quality content I appreciate.
Thank you!
Jesus is the way, the truth and life, no man comes to the Father but by Him. To believe in Jesus Christ and His blood sacrifice for YOUR sins, you have passed from death to life, to believe not you are condemned already.
The prices on these things have skyrocketed (like most other things). Thanks for the video, your methods are great and the condensed videos make for easy watching and learning.
Thanks and you are welcome!
dude, highly recommend gloves, just had 3 friends in late 50's, early 60's 1 auto mechanic and 2 furnace service techs, who never wore gloves die from a form of Leukemia that petroleum exposure a cause
Thanks for the recommendation.
We are gona test that
@@mrraz9820 yeah I hope not by getting leukemia
I just finished a long term employment with a major oil company in the refining sector. Can confirm a suspicious number of Cancer related deaths in fit and younger people with NO family history, SPECIFICALLY around the production of the 'solvent' end of the product spectrum.
Specifically Naphtha and its derivatives. LHN or Light Hydrotreated Naphtha(a process unit feed stock cut around the C5 to C7 hydrocarbon range) is used in a LOT of automotive chemicals, specifically brake cleaners and such. LHN is very high in Benzene by weight and benzene is bad news.
@@mrraz9820 dude.. lmao
Love the acrylic demo. Would not be surprised if that method gets used to advertise in the future.
Thank you!
Acrylic looks nice, but i think it shows not how good it penetrates rust, but how good it desolves plastic.
Odious Ktenology ok, kind of a misnomer here. Just don't mix pool tablets and organic solvents. Methanol, ethanol, gasoline, they will all do that... Boom.
i agree, i think a way of showing how deep it gets through is simply drilling holes around the material being screwed into, at different places vertically
You need to test PB blaster. It's the best stuff I've ever used.
I do realize that you generally don't have hours to wait but when you do it really makes a difference on what works. I restore cars and I really don't mind when things that work the best take a while. I have used most everything, I think, and found Kroil oil seems to work the best. It sometimes takes much longer than most people are willing to wait but it's my go to.
When working on my own machines, I sometimes let things soak overnight as long as I don't need the machine immediately... Getting out a torch or broken bolts slow me down a lot more than just waiting.
I once rebuilt spring shackles on a 73 Nova spraying them with wd40 every day for 2 weeks. If you take time like that, go cheap. Works great!
If I have it, Kroil is the best, if not, I always use PB Blaster, everything else just takes too much time
@@medicmule yeah same here. I'm rarely doing just one job at a time, if I run into a stuck bolt I'll oil it and move on to a different job for a few hours.
This video helped me 6 years after upload, Thank you for having everylasting videos that always give accurate information!
You are welcome! Glad to hear!
Me: Never do anything involving any kind of mechanic work.
UA-cam: Hey, you wanna watch this 11 minute video of someone testing different kinds of rust dissolving fluids to better work with mechanical parts?
Me: "Uh... sure, let's take a look!"
Thanks for watching!
Pretty sure now karma has marked you and "that one screw" is rusted shut by fate
literally me
@lynth Yeah, I'm like you, too. I guess the technicality was what drew me to watch it. I don't even do any DIY.
I always used Liquid Wrench, but after seeing how well the Seafoam worked I’ll be switching to that. Another great video with very useful info. Thanks
Thanks for th feedback.
I dunno how i ended up watching this, but... here, take my like, sir.
Thanks!
Yeah same...
yeah same
Knock er loose always works.. Sometimes I apply it 3 times daily for 3 days and the WORST rusted bolt will come loose
Thanks for the feedback.
I think the drip application method may have hindered the performance of some of the foaming oils, but I recognize just how hard it is to try to isolate all the variables.
I use aluminum foil tape. It will cut through the tape eventually, but it can take long enough easily "bathe" bolts in awkward positions!!
Use it to cup around the stubborn hardware
yeah I know the amount used won't be as standard but the form is often there on purpose.
Heck ya i spray the f outta automotive stuff a bit rusty. I try not to risk breaking stuff
I felt that way with the WD-40, I explained in my own comment but I sprayed each nut down good, waited 15-30 min sprayed them again and went in and they came right off
In the Navy we used wintergreen oil found in the medial lab to loosen slat corroded bolts. Environmentally friendly and easy to find. Also helps with sore muscles.
Felt like we used Wintergreen or Meangreen for just about everything.
Probably could even put it on toast.
Yes, wintergreen was a "secret" rust buster my Master Chief turned me onto.
wintergreen turns into the active ingredient in aspirin in your body, which is why it helps with sore muscles. It's also why you should be very careful with the ingestion of it, and why it should be kept away from kids
Sailors use it as penetrating oil?!
I've no idea about anything I just watched, yet I loved every second of it.
Thank you for the positive comment!
keep on doing what you do. You are great. factual, informative, really enjoyable.
Thanks, will do!
@@ProjectFarmHow about testing different 10k winches? I’m not sure if anyone has suggested this but I couldn’t find a video for it, thanks for all you do!
I wasn't going to comment, then I read most of the comments and figured I had to. Some of you might find problems with the whole test, but overall, it's informative and helpful. There are an extreme amount of variables that anyone who works with rusty parts has encountered, but this video was very, very good. I appreciated it.
Thank you very much!
Big Steve &
I agree. I liked the results from the sea foam. My father in law has an old model T he bought. Its a case alright. Motor is seized. I am gonna recomend sea foam
Me too....most these morons never even turned a bolt, For us that have we appreciate this.
I'm surprised to hear you say that 'nobody' waits three hours to let penetrating oil work in the real world! I was always told by my dad and other auto mechanics that if drilling out or extracting the bolt will be time consuming and expensive, then let the oil penetrate overnight and maybe even put some heat on it and spray more penetrating oil. It's often not feasable drilling out and re-tapping a bolt. Time and heat and oil are your friends.
Right! When I use penetrating oil, it goes on the day before I try to extract the bolt or whatever. Sometimes a couple applications over 2 days. But that's just home use. Mechanics are under more time constraints.
Great feedback. Thank you
maybe you and your dad but on the dealer shop and regular shop they don't wait too much, time means money.
Yep this is the correct way to use penetrating fluid on stubborn bolts/nuts; sometimes a few minutes to an hour will do the trick, but that's just luck. Spray, re-apply, and leave it alone overnight has always worked for me on all manner of vehicle exhaust fasteners.
That depends on your level of skill... And the size of bolt, for a 10mm bolt, centre punch three drill sizes and that done in less than 30mins
I am an Aviation mechanic and frequently have to remove exhaust nuts. their mostly under the engine so the penetrate needs to creep up, for this an industry standard is "Mouse Milk" you should try this as it works very well. Very good video.
Art Deaton interesting, never heard of that.
Try an induction heater. We us them exclusively now.
As professional aviation mechanic, agreed, upside down or horizontal for certain. Results will be dramatically different!
Thank you!
Ask the guy in the shop to fetch you a long weight and some sky hooks while you are there...
But I'm so much more impressed that he said "nuts" and "penetration" 100 times and didn't snicker once! He's like a real adult!
Thank you
However I'm sure your comment made him laugh. 😆
Bot - downvote, copied a previous comment.
@@ProjectFarm This comment is copied.
Bot - downvote, copied a previous comment.
I would love to see rust preventives tested. As I say, prevention is the best cure.
Great recommendation--I'll do it!
If you do this check out some of the gun lube/rust preventatives on the market. The one that consistently comes in first in tests I've seen is Hornady One Shot
Project Farm sweet would be useful to know for the rust on my atv
Stonechip for the bottom sand it smooth and then paint with normal coloured paint of the car + clear coat for the bottom of it
Looks stock
Totally prevents rust forever
For the rest... Just keep all dry and if not possible... Make caps over it to make water gets off of that spot instead of being still water (for like battery/fuse trays with old Fords)
yes please, i would also love to see a video that shows how actually "rust preventative" these products are as they claim.
Why am i watching this, i'm not even a mechanic
Thank you for the feedback!
@@ProjectFarm No problem, but i appreciate your video, maybe it'll be useful for me in 3 or 4 years.
@el bojo loco well, he might think it is
Right? Me too.
Super interesting though!
You are one now
This is great work and highly valuable! Re: Fluid Film - I have always considered it a corrosion preventer and not really a penetrant. I was surprised at how well the brake fluid seemed to work though.
same for fluid film
Always fun to watch I can't tell you how much I appreciate your channel and your unbiased/unpurchased take on all things comparable. Please keep up the awesome content!!
Thanks and you are welcome!
The best channel on UA-cam -- "by far" for doing unbiased tests is Project Farm. Great
job done on all your videos.
Thanks so much!
Hardest working guy on UA-cam! Thank you for your dedication! Thumbs up 👍🏻
Thank you!
Brake fluid alone? NO. Brake fluid and acetone in a 1:1 mix. YES. (No chemical reactions nor toxic fumes to worry about with the mix, or I would have been dead 25 or so years ago.) Aside from being rather powerful stuff on its own, chemically speaking, I think the acetone thins (reduces the viscosity) of the brake fluid, making it even more penetrating, while boosting the brake fluid's corrosion fighting properties as well.
Really well done testing. Your dedication to exacting standards of fairness is most appreciated -- only way to get credible results. You've keyed in on the very thing that separates the good from the bad -- DOES IT PENETRATE? If it doesn't, it ain't worth squat.
Big thumbs up and carry on.
Tab Lature brake fluid actually absorbs moisture and causes corrosion. Get brake fluid in a ratcheting mechanism and it will absorb moisture and seize the ratchet. No corrosion fighting properties
Thank you!
"...Brake fluids must not corrode the metals used inside components such as calipers, wheel cylinders, ...Additives (corrosion inhibitors) are added to the base fluid to accomplish this....Any system that has used glycol based (DOT 3/4/5.1) will contain moisture; glycol fluid disperses the moisture throughout the system and contains corrosion inhibitors..." (from the Wiki page on "brake fluid")
If "moisture" is a concern, use fresh fluid -- an assumed (by me) given. However, for this use, any moisture "drawing" properties of brake fluid are a non-factor.
Tab Lature the system is sealed to slow the absorption of moisture but in poorly maintained systems the lines may corrode faster from the inside than the outside
Moisture absorption of brake fluid, as I stated above, is a non-factor in this use -- has absolutely no impact on its efficacy as a penetrant. What I was refuting with my previous post was this, your incorrect statement: "No corrosion fighting properties."
Agreed on the hygroscopic properties of brake fluid. That's precisely the reason for the added corrosion inhibitors.
Damn, I really like the calmer style, slower and no yelling.
I really enjoy it when you put all the graphs in the end of the video again, before your closing summary. Makes it way easier to find and reference the information you found in your tests. Please go back to doing this in your newer videos.
Great to hear!
This man seems so wholesome i wanna meet him
Thank you very much!
Gay
@@bilbobaggins4710 are you admitting that here , or......?
You are correct.
He once issued himself a warning ticket for traveling 5mph over the speed limit ! :-P ! :-P
reddit, get tf out of here
I'd like to see the same test performed on a upward-facing bolt where you can't get to the threaded side
Oh yeah. The real world examples.
Top bolts of shock absorbers would a great real work test.
Why? The stuff doesn't work in the best of conditions, why make it harder on the "poor things"!?
@@paulcopeland9035 for science, shits and giggles. I mean, some of those even advertise that they work even upside down, whether that holds up to their claim and whether other products can do similar. Im curious too
Also video did ask for recommendations for ideas
Capillary action
That is pointless. When you're conducting tests to determine if a product simply works as intended, any scientist would start with a basic test. If the product fails on a basic test, then you have your answer without creating multiple situations. When the product demonstrates an ability to work under simple conditions, this would then be the time to change the test.
Seafoam vs liquid wrench. You should have included the best from the last.
Re Brake fluid: people who don't see it on a regular basis may not know it can be highly corrosive. Trash the nut and bolt when possible, otherwise clean it off very well using a degreaser and coat with anti-seize.
Great point.
Agreed. I would not use brake fluid just out of the chance that it would get on a painted surface.
That is close to what I was thinking; that brake fluid is a terrible idea, because it is highly corrosive, and the normal person doesn't realize that. Ouch!
It's not so much corrosive, it's that it's hygroscopic and cuts through oil and paint. You end up holding water directly against the metal. I don't think DOT 5 has this issue, 5 is a silicone based fluid that doesn't take water... it's DOT 3/4 and 5.1 that are ester based and do this.
Funny thing is, in a completely sealed system DOT 5 has corrosion problems... it won't absorb any existing water in the system. that water will find a nice spot and sit there slowly eating the corner of a line or cylinder...
Anyhow, DOT3/4 on a bolt/nut isn't a reason to trash it, but degreaser isn't going to do as well as plain water in getting all the glycol esters off the surface. Drop it in a plastic cup of clean high quality H20 and swirl....
I’ve been recommended this video for 2 years now and I have finally obeyed UA-cam. They knew I would eventually click it
Thanks for sharing.
😂 me too!
Lol
"No one in the real world will wait three hours for penetrating oils to work."
So I shouldn't mention that for the rusted screws holding the licence plate bulbs in on my car I sprayed them every morning before I went to work for a week before I got the loose on Saturday?
Thank you for the feedback
Agree, I have sprayed things on my boat for days before being able to take them apart.
Yes, even over night, spraying them multiple times would see reasonable. Having a little patience can payoff, or at least save you bigger troubles later...
Bill Alexander for personal use that makes a lot of sense and would be recommended. Penetrating oils do indeed work with continuous application over a period of time. For commercial use mechanics don’t have any extra time to be waiting unless they absolutely have to. Luckily for us, waiting just a little bit (an hour or less) does make a difference. If it doesn’t, there’s always a torch :D
@@reidhanson4755 Agree, professional mechanics have to work to some predictable level of productivity. The only thing I can do at the productivity level of a professional mechanic is to rebuild the carburetor on my boat. For most things I think I am at about 20% the productivity of a professional mechanic. It is interesting to work on things however and helps save money.
Every since I saw this a while ago, I've switched to brake fluid. I've never been disappointed.
Thanks for the feedback.
You have an interesting mind for finding ways to test products, I find your methods reassuring since they demonstrate clear differences and visible evidence, rather than just some arbitrary figures.
Your explanations are great, I like knowing the decisions behind the controls taken when carrying out a test.
Thanks so much!
Brake fluid DID work though.. gonna have to remember that in a pinch.
Thanks for watching!
Yeah at 1/4 of the price......
Thats what i was thinking.
Brake fluid took off the yellow off my headlights as well as loosen any bolt.
Better than WD40 I’d say...
@@bealightinthisdarkworld8225 Just make sure it doesn't get on your vehicle's paint, it'll take it right off if you leave the fluid on there.
I as a computer science engineer having his exams tomorrow, am finding this video very useful
good luck ;) - now go learn you lazy bastard :D
Thanks! Best wishes to you!
Check out the cat videos; GREAT for upcoming exams. Relied on them before my LSATs.
Lol 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
So did you pass?
It makes sense in a real world, professional mechanics environment that you'd want the stuff working immediately. Time is money. . I, however am a trucker that works on my own vehicles and if I'm working on a project that could be difficult, I'll let it soak for 24 hours,. I'd love to see a 24 hour soak test of all products you've tested up until now.. Great work!!
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Years ago, when I was around 20, I knew this old man that owned some property next to the place at which I worked. If I remember correctly, he was in his late 80s at that time. I'm sure he is gone by now. At any rate, he was retired but when he worked, he was a chemist. He used to come into my work just to sit on the bench and talk to me or whoever happened to be there. You know how old people are. I didn't mind.
He worked for Boeing and JPL in the fuel research and development field. I like talking to him because he was a genius.
Before he worked at those places, he worked for the company that makes WD40. I am not sure if he was a consultant or an actual employee. But he told me that WD40 is the worst product out there. He said that it will most likely not do anything that the makers claim it will. It is a terrible lubricant and everything else. He told me that the company's main and often only concern was how it smelled. That was the secret to WD40's success. Just the smell. The makers claimed that it didn't matter if it worked or not. There had been better formulas, cheaper production methods, etc. But if any of those things made it smell any different, it was a no-go.
I don't know if this is true or not. I am just telling you what I had been told. But, I don't see any reason for this old man to lie about that.
I still think about that once in a while. I avoid WD40.
It's a nice safe degreaser 😀😀😀
It will remove adhesive backed paper stickers or decals.
WD40 is amazing for cleaning tools and the rubber handles. Keeps them looking like new. It also keeps my metals tools from rusting. I do not use it as a penetrant oil.
Wd 40 works well as 2 stroke fuel in a pinch.... got a gallon jug for free, tried it since gas had water in it in a weed whacker I was messing with for fun. It actually ran, and well...
Not the best lube . however its great for lots of odd things . I always buy it for all around stuff . JB 80 is a great lube .
I would have liked to have seen the results from PB B'laster Penetrant. I've used it for years with great success. Great video!
Thank you!
I believe the PB Blaster was tested in the previous test , another video.
You must live in the rust belt too.. lol Blaster is all I ever use.
PB Blaster is all i have used for the past 25 years. #1 in my book!!!
This. Also I found it funny people moaned about a 3 hour test. I've grown accustomed to soaking stuff in PB Blaster under my Jeep a day prior to wrenching on it because I'm not a glutton for punishment.
Project Farm: We'll check the bolts in an hour.
Me after waiting 2 minutes: I paid how much for this garbage?!
So I am not the only one! ✌
@@LeK- Definitely not. 😂
Lol. That's why shorter tests make sense for these products. Not many people wait the full several hours that the companies recommend
Well I've had experiences with WD...and basically just spray it, leave couple mins, smash with a hammer few times(to kick the rust out). Spray again, wait a few mins. ;)
@@mistercrimesb I cannot wait a few minutes though. I start twisting and trying immediately after spraying. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I only have patience when I go fishing. 'Melting' rust I cannot wait.
17 MILLION views?!?! Congrats man well deserved!
Thanks!
The variance per sample is pretty large. To really fix it you would need a lot more than four bolts per test but I understand that's probably not reasonable in this context. What you could do instead is to put +-1 standard deviation on the plot. That would make it clear that the difference between products is due to more than just the margin of error. As it stands your data implies that fluid film and wd-40 actually make it harder to remove them because those products average breakaway torque is higher than the control, and I don't believe that is really the case. Good work overall.
I believe it could be true for the Fluid Film. It didn't seem to actually make contact with any of the work surfaces.
Its like there is an invisible dice roll added to each result, its so easy to be surprised by a handful of rolls.
Colin Hart I definitely second this. The Idea for the Video was great but the results should have been reviewed with advanced statistical methods to give them meaning. Unfortunately I don't know a good way to get consistent corrosion and having a much bigger sample size is just over the top
I made a quick ANOVA test on the results, which is used to see if there is a difference between the population means. And it concluded that there isn't a significant difference between the products.
I've now watched this three times without planning to. Penetrating fluids interest me more than I knew.
Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I've watched it several times as well. UA-cam must know I have a rusty nut problem, since it keeps showing up in my recommended feed.
Y'know, I wasn't interested in this at all. I don't even know why it's in my suggestions. I don't care about mechanics nor the whole thing surrounding them. But throughout watching this I found myself fascinated with it all, and throughout the entire video I was thinking "Man, I bet this would be great to watch with my dad."
I've never wanted to watch something with my dad in my life.
Lonnie Wright did you watch it with him?
@@josephmountford2292 Nope, we're in completely different cities lol
Lonnie Wright did you at least forward it to him? ;)
Awesome, wish my dad was here to watch it with ...
It’s always nice to do something w ur dad, especially when y’all both enjoy it
I believe this video is the reason you channel blew up and made me watch all your videos ! Thank you !!
Thanks for sharing!
Good job, well thought out. I disagree with the time constraint thinking though. I will often spray down bolts I expect a problem with the day before I start the job, allowing it to sit overnight if possible. (Automotive exhaust bolts for example) I don’t really know this makes a difference but my Grandpa said it did and he was right about a lot of stuff. He passed away many years ago and I still use a lot of the stuff he taught me (I’m 55 now). More homage than science I guess, but it does seem to help. I will use brake fluid if penetrating oil isn’t available but it does remove paint so it takes some care on painted things that will be visible after the job is done. Thumbs up on the video!
AngryRed Banjo I was going to comment this same thing, my dad has always taught me that. Spray The bolts a day or two before you do the job(if you can)
When I did my Ranger's leaf springs I did this every day for a week!
I've always sworn by PB-Blaster. I would love to see how it stacks up.
PB-Blaster is the best, 20 years in the trade it never failed me.
Thanks for the video idea.
@@ProjectFarm i also wanted to see PB blaster , been using it 25 years.
It was in the first group he tested.
Is there anything else?
You are my go to video expert/scientist when it comes to settling arguments with my friends on superior products. Nobody performs tests on the same degree as you. Thanks for your work
You are welcome!
I have been very impressed with CRC products, especially the 3-36 from Australia it's a multi-purpose lube and corrosion inhibitor. Everything electrical/switches started working almost immediately. Window switch started working on the first try .steering clock needed some wiggling but started working on the 3rd cruise press. When I can use heat, the penetrating oil will flow throughout the threaded area most of the times I've tried it. Thanks for your vigorous work. I really appreciate your videos 👍
Thanks and you are welcome!
* Should be sleeping 3 hours ago. . .
* "Oh nice a random video about penetrating oil! Let's see whats up with that first!"
Lol
Hayabusa隼 Sad reality of our vacuous lives.
Yeah, I’m supposed to be going on a 5k run.. ooh look oil
Same
i swear this is me everyday :D :D going down the youtube rabbit hole at 4 am is the highlights of my days
Its good to see Steve Jobs keeping himself busy.
y'know, considering he's dead.
@@shogun2215 r/wooosh
lmao
@@shogun2215 He didnt die, he just went to the farm, the Project Farm...
@@MikeG52 It's woooosh, not wooosh.
Everyone I know always uses PB Blaster for the most rusted bolts - plus, tap with a hammer a bit to set up some vibration to crack the rust.
The test is very well designed. There are many variations and conditions to factor in allowing an accurate decision to be made. Just by having more than one bolt tested for each product under the same procedure eliminates many test variables. Nice work. I do so enjoy!
We got a free scooter from our neighbor. The kick push kind with a flexible dual wheel front end for turning. The wheels were locked up and rusted. They barley turned at all and made horrible noises. With a few squirts of WD40, some forced movement, and a few more squirts, it was back to normal. Amazing stuff!
NickPDX22 year but it won't stick around forever, wd is okay for that kind of stuff, but you need to get some grease in there.
I personally use Kroil for rust.
I would recommend to get some thicker grease in there.
Especially if the bearings get a little warmer due to friction WD40 evaporates very fast.
its just oil
WD40 is not just oil...
Marijn Donders it's mainly fish oil not standard oil. Replace the sealed bearings as they will just be dissolving and grinding with rust and sludge.
In the actual real world people apply penetrating fluid and give it 5 minutes before viciously attack the nut again with every tool they have in their arsenal.
Great point!
A combination of heat and wax is the quickest way to free up rusted fasteners.
Yep, 10 minutes max, since you know, work must be done now. In which case, fire up the torch. Bet you it moves when its cherry red.
True. Though if I know I'm going to be wrenching on something on the weekend, I may try to hit it a few times in the days before.
WD-40 never fails. That's why I spray my grandma's knees with it.
I bet her knees have no signs of rust.
Heck I may have to try that! (7 knee surgeries)
WD40 isnt that great as a lubricant. ACF-50 is way better. XCP rust blocker for the best rust protection.
I might need your services soon Maor 😆
😂😂
As a person dealing with old Rusty bolts. These tests make my purchases much easier.
Thank you 🙏.
You are welcome!
Kroil penetrate oil is an rust penetrate oil that I would like to have seen in your test. I use it at work and has done a good job for me. Love to see how it stacks against the rest.
It finished last place in the first episode.
If you read this in an old timey gangster/gagster voice, its pretty good.
My job uses Kroil too
I like kroil and seems to work better than others.
I wouldn't say that "no one waits 3 hours for penetrating fluid to do it's job".
I've waited several days, and reapplied penetrating fluid to some items that I had to try and save due to rarity or expense in replacing if not successfully separated.
Great point!
Project Farm could it be then that since so many say theres different methods they use to actually use the product, that could be another test.
The one hour application as here, the 3 hour wait (would also tie in your other results), the overnight, the liberal overspray, the double application, apply and give it a quick jerk twist, quick blast with a tiny blowtorch to warm it before application (although not heating it past the oil flashpoint), and of course 'the directions on the can'.
TurboHawkV6 I also will wait if I'm trying to fix an expensive part. Would rather blow a can costing$3.50-7.50 vs a $200+ part that takes forever to get by mail.
My friend had an actual WW2 shovel that was rusted and locked. We worked on it for weeks, haha
I got a flat belt grinding arbor that I worked on for about a year. It was my grandfather's and he didn't get it new. Then it sat in his damp cellar doing nothing for decades before I inherited it. About once a week I'd spray it up and heat it with a propane torch. Put a wrench on it and tap the wrench with a hammer. Then spray it up some more and let it sit. It's on the top right in this picture i.imgur.com/NPvxnch.jpg I wanted to change that flat belt pulley to a V belt that I could drive. I made that frame custom to sit right where it is.
This is my favorite site. Some guys who are subject matter experts beat you up a little. No worries. They know a lot about that one subject. Most of them flaunt their knowledge in a courteous way educating others who want to go that deep.
For the rest of us who on a broad talent and skill field want to do our best, jack of all trades - master of none, you hit the bulls eye.
Thanks for giving us knowledge to the equipment 99% of us jacks want, need and use. Good job!😊
Thanks!
Fun fact: you were not looking for this video
Hope you enjoyed the video
@@ProjectFarm Yeah it was pleasant to watch , I see you put alot of work into it. And for someone thats into this it have alot of usefull informations.
@Hodd Toward Fact it is. Fun? ..... maybe. I did enjoy the video tho.
Damn, why is that so accurate. Why does my recommended do this?
@@ProjectFarm I did enjoy the video. 👍👍
Science teachers, this is one of the best examples of the scientific method that you could use for teaching the concept.
I like the Seafoam vs. Liquid Wrench showdown idea! Another good video, BTW.
Thank you very much!
Project Farm I'd also like to see this and to cover both test do a set of bolts like you did in this video and a second set like you did in the other and see if the results stay the same
Sea foam just seems to be a great overall brand.
Yes, this sounds like an interesting showdown.
I'd love to see it too!
I agree. Liquid wrench sells good here and I have a can of that. I want to know. Please test
I am hooked on your testing / comparison teqnick….I actually shop and buy whatever is best in each of your projects……i’m 76 & have trouble w/ memory & ( without malice ) understanding fast talking
Thanks so much!
Try running the playback speed at 0.75x on fast talking videos
PB Blaster has never done me wrong. Works every time! It has definitely out performed any other brand I’ve used
Thanks for sharing.
I was going to ask why not PB blaster, always worked for me too
Ditto that is the only thing I use now where others consistently fail
Yup pb blaster! Smells great too 🤣
Same here
I have always had great results from all Seafoam products.
I'm not too sure about brake fluid loosening nuts and bolts however, Dot 3 makes an excellent paint remover.
Good job as always Todd.
Thank you!
This is some quality content here.
Thank you!
gbin21 And even as a man who loves women, that is a handsome profile picture.
DE Nichols that’s abit gay
Richard, that can easily be seen that way yes. Without a real name for the user name, the face is probably fake too. That was my other honest thought. I had gone with the kinder one. lol Hey, I'm all kinds of entertaining if I can be if I can attract someone to check out my content. :) Automotive technician here.
DE Nichols you must be American and your far from entertaining
I'm still am using my can of Seafoam I bought almost 10 years ago. Always had good luck with it.
Not sure why it came to my recommended but 1 thing that I know for sure, this video is fun to watch and you know what that means.
Thanks for watching!
Give Superzilla a try, I bought some before I was restoring a 66 Chevy truck and I think this stuff works better than anything I have used in 40 years👍😊
Thanks for the suggestion.
Can't wait to school my father on this...no more holding the flashlight for me!
lol Thanks for watching.
That was beautiful!
I am waiting for my grandson to get old enough to make me hold that light.
@@mostafagaaboba2702 "Aziz, light!"?
Lol
Haha
*I can smell this video*
lol
The smell of menliness
I feel like I'm in my garage now
Most accurate comment on yt man!
You can really smell it in real life
Have you given thought to doing the plexiglass one but seeing if the penetrant will work upwards? Not all bolts are facing so that you can apply it from the top. Seeing if it wicks upwards would be interesting
Great video idea--thank you!
09ThunderOne only penetrate oil that I've seen creep up was the DURALUBE penetrate that came in a pump spray can. Not arasol . I'd put a drip on rusty metal and it would grow to half dollar size with in mins. I've never found it again anywhere
I think that's an awesome idea cause on equipment there's always some that are upside down. Plus that plexiglass is awesome idea But wondering if it were molded on the bolt instead of being threaded or maybe put lock tite on it as you thread it on
Nice idea!
Capillary action would cause that, but if its rusted there no way. You'd need to apply it to the upper part of the bolt or nut
THE best penetrant is 50/50 acetone and ATF. NOTHING else comes close!! P.S. only mix small amount because the acetone evaporates and you will need to add a bit more next time you want to use it. Also, do not be impatient, leave at least overnight. This was first used by the U.S. Military in WW2. (even though I am an Aussie. )
He's tested it