Those capacitors are 100% failed. They usually bulge when they fail because the seals hold, but when they rupture they leak just like you're seeing there. Can be a total pain to clean the board correctly and get new ones in. I own a shop in Colorado, Mountain States Electronics, that does a large amount of PC board repair exactly like you're seeing there. If you need some help getting that fixed up, give me a shout!
Agreed... I work for a manufacture of capacitors, in this case your aluminum electrolytic capacitors are toast. Once they leak their electrolyte they no longer are able to act as a capacitor.
Can confirm this. Dried up capacitors are also a way for them to fail. Replace them and be sure to clean the surface where they leaked. Worked as a service tech for many years, and this is very common with old electronics.
You do NOT cut the blue with red stripe wire. You cut the PINK wire and splice it into the blue with red. That allows all the odometer/VSS/ECU to maintain functionality. *I'm a supra owner have been through this.
I once had odd issues with my 3000gt and checked my ECU for leaking capacitors, looked similar than yours but when tested by 2 different shops they both said the same, they were toast. Replaced capacitors and the car was back to purr like a kitten.
Yes those capacitors look done for, replace anything that's leaking, or bulged, I would honestly replace every single capacitor in there if these units have this sort of a problem and yours appears to have. Old capacitor weren't as great as nowadays and even then they never last forever unless we're talking a different type of capacitor, these big round style ones are not solid. You may want to use solid capacitors as replacement if you can get the same voltage/capacity and fit size wise. I would do a TC delete.
I was going to say the same - If it's no good, you're not losing anything by soldering in new capacitors. If it kills it you're out the part anyways, and the attempt to repair is probably less than a dollar
As patient as PT is, some of the other GT-R fanboys are in desperate need of the R34. We shall soldier on through a couple more Supra videos. No, just kidding, great stuff, boys!
You guys should reach out to Jared at Wrench Every Day, he might have a spare auto TCM. Not to mention he is a very experienced Supra technician and a super nice guy.
I had a bad ECU, like you mentioned the capacitors were blown and leaking. The first thing I noticed was the horrid smell that came out of the ECU once I opened it. The good thing is that a set of capacitors was like 10 bucks. I took my ecu to a local phone repair shop and they replaced them for 20 buck. Now my ECU is golden. I think you can get a set of them now for around 15 on amazon.
not all caps would blew its vent off. sometimes, they leak just like those caps. i'll say, replace every single electrolytics with a good ones. Panasonic and Chemi-con is my go to brand
Pete, these are such great episodes. It is so cool to see the actual struggles and troubleshooting. THANK YOU! :) I hope it is fun for you guys too even though it can be frustrating.
Guys about the transmission problems. Some times after an ECU reset they need to relearn the clutch bite points. I've seen other cars driving badly after a reset (holding the gear too long or kicking at every gear change) but as soon as the adaptions were completed it worked fine.
the car will work without that traction control ecu. Pull the ecu and throw it away. You wont have any slip count light or O/D light flashing after you do. Also, Change those capacitors with some high temp low esr ones of the same value and voltages.
Any leaking from a capacitor is bad, if it hasn’t failed, it will. I personally would delete the traction control system on my own car but as it’s a giveaway car you might be better sorting.
For future reference, it's called "reflowing" and the connections are called "solder joints". Good job! I have never welded, but I have soldered a million things, I assume if you can do one, the other comes easier.
Gotta love terrible cold solder on 90s cars giving lovely electrical gremlins. Cut the traction control off and zip tie the electronics some where. The system is old and archaic. On the e36 M3 it was common to remove the secondary throttle body for the traction control replaced with a z3 intake boot and zip tie the control cable out the way. It is just a flow restriction and you can just lift your foot to do the same thing. Leaving the electronics there kept the ABS working. You should check if you ABS still works with the traction control system messed up.
Definitely replace those capacitors. I had a couple of OG Xbox's working on leaking CPU power capacitors that then died. Replaced them and they started right back up no issue!
Is the goo under the capacitors squishy like rubber/silicone? It might be there to mechanically support the capacitors to help with vibration (to try and keep the solder joints from cracking) leaking capacitors tend to be a brown coloured fluid and once dry it's hard/brittle.
Before I converted my JZZ30 to manual with the V160, it had the OD and slip control lights flashing. It turned out to be the throttle control ECU being bad. I found a second hand spare which fixed it up.
I didn't much like the colour in the previous video, as it gave me too much purple and 00's vibe, but it looks amazing driving around. Excellent colour choice.
Replace those caps. Then pull the traction ecu and the warning globes. That traction control is useless, and sometimes kinda dangerous. Much better without. Loving this build, great work guys!
Had a similar TC issue; turned out to be the starter relay starting to go bad, as TC gets its power through it also. Swapped the relay, TC started working properly again.
If it were my car, I would just update to a new ECM, like a Haltech. Lots of the antiquated 90's systems are then able to be deleted. It simplifies and streamlines the engine bay, also making it look better. Check out The Skid Factory for examples.
As for the ECU & TCU, Pull it and reseat it. Spray electric contact cleaner on all the connections. That will rule out contact corrosion. If you have a wiring diagram, you can check the continuity on the harness from one unit to the other. You do have a length of wire and testing clips, right? Simple stuff, cheap and easy to check.
The splicing the wires behind the dash is a fix but I assume you may have the wrong wires it’s for fault 42 speed sensor error. We are going to run the traction control via the aftermarket ecu and ignition timing a lot better than the factory setup and with an aftermarket ecu the slip light always flashes I don’t even notice it anymore. If your going to go single turbo at all probably just go aftermarket ecu I solved sooo many issues with doing that it’s worth a thought depending on the direction of the build
But this isn't a "build" perse, this is them returning a car that initially had a big turbo into a stock TT setup with bolt-ons mods in order to sell. The red Supra is the one they will actually be building. A standalone in a big investment for a car with light mods that they also intend on selling.
Brother it's not the traction control system it's the ECU capacitor the need to be changed and the ECU circuit board needs to be cleaned with ICI thinner or isopropyl alcohol also make sure the lines of conductor on the circuit board where the capacitor leaked are not broken if the are you will need to rejoin them using a thin gauge wire and your soldering flux
Since boost is actually a measurement in relation to restriction, I'm curious if the over boost issue is being caused by the traction control blade in the throttle body. If it's not working properly like you guys suspect then it could be causing a restriction or essentially a choke point which would cause higher boost levels due to back pressure
@@kurtlamprecht93 yes it's measured after the throttle body but any restriction from the turbo to the intake manifold will cause over boost at wide open throttle which is the problem they seem to have.
@@kurtlamprecht93 Actually I'm not wrong. You're not understanding what I'm saying. I'm talking about the over boosting issue they are having at wide open throttle, not at idle or part throttle. If the secondary throttle blade that is part of the traction control system located at the opening of the throttle body is not working properly and partially closed at wide open throttle could cause an over boosting issue. It also could depend on their wastegate and blowoff valve setup as well
The capacitors are definitely bad. Send it out to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX and they’ll get you fixed up. I had a 1993 Celica GT-4 that had capacitor failure in the ECU. They fixed it with great turn around time and a fair cost.
When a capacitor goes 'leaky' it doesn't necessarily mean that the stuff inside leaks out. It can mean electrically leaky, ie they are 'leaking' current through them like a resistor.
Yup, referred to as E.S.R.(Equivalent Series Resistance). Electrolytic Capacitors have a shelf life of around 20 years to be safe. So, Make note of the values, and replace every Electro Cap you can. Good luck guys.
If you're going twins for the GT-R, maybe try something left field and old school. Twin GT2259 turbos with the external wastegate, should rev out to 8k pretty easy with good power down low.
As someone in nz who has dealt with a lot of 90s jdm Toyota’s, 95% of the time with the pre obd2 cars like your supra it is normally ecu capacitors at fault . And they will cause random things to happen( like your traction butterfly to go wacky) all will come right once the caps are replaced.
Hi guys, I have had the exact same problem with my twin turbo auto, I tried all the things you have tried and that didn’t solve the flashing over drive and trac control lights flashing. I even tried changing the caps in both the trac control and engine ecu, that didn’t solve it either, what I did in the end was get a refurbished ecu from a supra specialist in the uk called SRD and that solved the issue!!!! You will find that everything will feel more responsive afterwards to, gearchanges and throttle response all be improved!
There should be a way to run diag on the TRC ecu. The motor is hunting. There are capacitor kits by ecu on line. I got one for an Aristo which comes with extras but i doubt that is uour problem. I would swap the trac motor from one supra to the next to trouble shoot. Also these things should be running JOBD2 which use a different protocol but some apps with obd2 readers allow switch8ng to jobd. I may not be fully accurate but in there, thete s info to go after it. You should probably reset the ecu after having played with the odo wires etc.
Capacitors look bad and the acid could have destroyed some of the connections on the board itself. Replace the caps and clean the board. Keep it up guys. 👊🏽
try swapping the red car's traction ecu? didnt the original owner have the parts for a manual swap? Maybe they did something (cut/spliced wires, swapped ecu)?
If it's too much trouble maybe traction control delete is an option, but saying that rear wheel drive and good turbo power it needs traction control so the Supra doesn't kiss the kerb, so maybe a after market option, electronic one?
I would definitely replace those caps. They are so cheap. Plus the electrolyte fluid inside that is leaking onto the main board will eat through the PCB on the ecu in quick fashion.
Does this motor have the secondary air intake pump? The foam inside the secondary pump could have broken down causing all these issues too, potentially. Check the secondary air pump if it has one.
I took the auto apart on my JDM 1jz got confused about location of balls and springs took one look at the wiring and noped out of that and got a w52 from a junkyard the tall ratio sucked fora 2.5 I6 1jz but felt really smooth like a s2000 trans.
Those capacitors are definitely bad, based on the provided visuals. Went through something similar with my LS400. DIY'd the job - it took two tries to get those capacitors done right.
Even with no physical evidence the capacitor can be bad you can buy a ESR meter to be sure. Just change them its a fun and cheap project also do the ecu ones as well
Remove trac control ecu, remove fuse and disconnect the motor. It's a rubbish system that will cause you to crash if nothing else, it doesnt work anything like traction control should. The only benefit is snow mode for when the road is super slippery, it makes it easier to get around. 20psi is fine but not for the stock ecu. Get a link G4+ plug and play.
Could it be the rear o2 sensors ? I had a issue that when the rear o2 sensor went out it triggered the traction control light to stay on and turn traction off. This was on a 1992 sc400.
I’m dealing with this right now with my JDM RHD MK4, leaky capacitors, send it to Josh Beaumont of Relentless Motorsports in TX, he can fix these ECU’s.
the traction control in my 2004 totoyta camry is awful, i cant imagine traction control thats 11 years older is any better. Just delete it, you dont need it or want it, and its just more potential failure points to break again in the future
If the caps are leaking electrolyte, they need to be replaced. They're bad. Also, if you don't clean that stuff up, it can corrode the traces on the board and destroy it.
@Speed Academy as we chatted about before, unplug and remove the TRAC ECU. Mine has been removed since 1998 in a TT auto with zero issues; only gains. It will also stop the lights from flashing and constant on, no need to remove them. You don't want to disable the O/D light. Removing the TRAC ECU disables the TRAC butterfly motor and places it into the open position. When it fixes the problem, I'll listen for the shout out. 😀 I can send you my TRAC ECU, but you have to keep the DickButt sticker on it. Your main ECU is probably fine.
Just bite the bullet and do a standalone! You're going to quickly find the limitations of the older systems and how they were just "good enough" for the stock power levels.
This is the Supra they returned to a stock TT setup in order to sell. A standalone seems like a huge investment for something that essentially only has a couple bolt on mods.
Maybe there is a service that can repair your traction control ECU? I think I would delete that traction control, I think if it was more sophisticated I would really want to keep it but because it is so primitive and it is causing a problem I think I would remove it.
Def bad caps, overtime especially when they leak, they loose capacitance, and become less and less functional. Theyre not hard to replace, especially if theyre through hole like that, you could probably manage yourself with a bit of practice, (tip, put the iron to the joint, and then touch the solder to the joint, not the iron, otherwise you loose the flux present in the solder. also the thinner the solder the better. ) It may be worth just getting a new one anyways as loss of capacitance can cause greater damage depending on the caps use.
Stock turbo set up only safe to 17-18 psi. Watch your butt cause that could get ugly quick. Caps bulge or leak when they go bad. Those sure look like they are leaking. That plus the code would make me ditch it. I would just run it with no traction control. If I was gonna sell it I would replace it. Maybe thats just me. In the end the new owner can pay for it and it can leave your hands in working order.
Before buying a new ECU or anything, why not try a swap with the one on the red Supra (well, if it works)? At least you will know if the error is the ECU or, if no change, somewhere else.
can anyone let me know is it better to buy a diagnostic device or is it the same with buying diagnostic software on my laptop and connecting with a diagnostic USB kit
Look into having the board repaired on that ECU. You might have a board repair shop that has a hot air solder station that can replace the caps on the board. It all depends on how much they would charge v. finding a different factory ECU. It is another option. I would advise against trying a board level repair as a DIY job though. It is possible to replace bad components and wouldn’t be a bad thing to show people that that is an option rather than throwing away the whole unit just because some capacitors went bad. Also a good shop would be able to visually inspect all the surface mount components under a microscope to determine if there are any other issues.
You guys need to come to NYC and pick up my 3rd Gen Mitsubishi Montero and go thru it. They are becoming a thing again and the Montero international world could use your expertise show how.
Definitely ‘solder joints’ and not “welds” - although it technically is a ‘weld’, as you’ve physically joined two parts together by fusing the material, I’ve never heard anyone refer to them in this way, although I am based in the UK ;) Oh and leaky electrolytic caps are just one of those things on any old electronics. The electrolyte is a chemical component of what makes them function, so once it’s gone the circuit is hosed and as others mention they will effectively become resistors. They don’t always bulge, so that goo on the board is your evidence they are trashed. Clean it throughly with isopropyl when you desolder the old caps When replacing caps always get good quality ones and you can typically go higher in value (both voltage and capacitance/farads) but not lower.
Those capacitors are 100% failed. They usually bulge when they fail because the seals hold, but when they rupture they leak just like you're seeing there. Can be a total pain to clean the board correctly and get new ones in. I own a shop in Colorado, Mountain States Electronics, that does a large amount of PC board repair exactly like you're seeing there. If you need some help getting that fixed up, give me a shout!
@Speed Academy, do it.
Also, when those capacitors leak, the liquid is corrosive and can damage other components or traces.
Agreed... I work for a manufacture of capacitors, in this case your aluminum electrolytic capacitors are toast. Once they leak their electrolyte they no longer are able to act as a capacitor.
It's a huge problem with dsm's also. They will act super wierd.
Can confirm this. Dried up capacitors are also a way for them to fail. Replace them and be sure to clean the surface where they leaked. Worked as a service tech for many years, and this is very common with old electronics.
You do NOT cut the blue with red stripe wire. You cut the PINK wire and splice it into the blue with red. That allows all the odometer/VSS/ECU to maintain functionality. *I'm a supra owner have been through this.
Exactly what I wondered when he said he cut them and connected them.
I once had odd issues with my 3000gt and checked my ECU for leaking capacitors, looked similar than yours but when tested by 2 different shops they both said the same, they were toast.
Replaced capacitors and the car was back to purr like a kitten.
Yes those capacitors look done for, replace anything that's leaking, or bulged, I would honestly replace every single capacitor in there if these units have this sort of a problem and yours appears to have. Old capacitor weren't as great as nowadays and even then they never last forever unless we're talking a different type of capacitor, these big round style ones are not solid. You may want to use solid capacitors as replacement if you can get the same voltage/capacity and fit size wise.
I would do a TC delete.
If you're questioning the caps in the ecm, I would just replace them with some quality caps. Not hard to find and they are cheap.
I was going to say the same - If it's no good, you're not losing anything by soldering in new capacitors. If it kills it you're out the part anyways, and the attempt to repair is probably less than a dollar
@@mondomoleno.3404 definitely
@@mondomoleno.3404 Mouser, Digikey
As patient as PT is, some of the other GT-R fanboys are in desperate need of the R34. We shall soldier on through a couple more Supra videos. No, just kidding, great stuff, boys!
You guys should reach out to Jared at Wrench Every Day, he might have a spare auto TCM. Not to mention he is a very experienced Supra technician and a super nice guy.
I had a bad ECU, like you mentioned the capacitors were blown and leaking. The first thing I noticed was the horrid smell that came out of the ECU once I opened it. The good thing is that a set of capacitors was like 10 bucks. I took my ecu to a local phone repair shop and they replaced them for 20 buck. Now my ECU is golden. I think you can get a set of them now for around 15 on amazon.
not all caps would blew its vent off. sometimes, they leak just like those caps. i'll say, replace every single electrolytics with a good ones. Panasonic and Chemi-con is my go to brand
👍👍👍👍
Traction controls not turning off, capacitor leaking, all adds up to the main traction ECU like you said.
Pete, these are such great episodes. It is so cool to see the actual struggles and troubleshooting. THANK YOU! :)
I hope it is fun for you guys too even though it can be frustrating.
Guys about the transmission problems. Some times after an ECU reset they need to relearn the clutch bite points. I've seen other cars driving badly after a reset (holding the gear too long or kicking at every gear change) but as soon as the adaptions were completed it worked fine.
the car will work without that traction control ecu. Pull the ecu and throw it away. You wont have any slip count light or O/D light flashing after you do. Also, Change those capacitors with some high temp low esr ones of the same value and voltages.
Any leaking from a capacitor is bad, if it hasn’t failed, it will.
I personally would delete the traction control system on my own car but as it’s a giveaway car you might be better sorting.
For future reference, it's called "reflowing" and the connections are called "solder joints". Good job! I have never welded, but I have soldered a million things, I assume if you can do one, the other comes easier.
Those butane Dremel soldering irons are excellent, they even double as a tiny heat gun _and_ awesome lighter.
Gotta love terrible cold solder on 90s cars giving lovely electrical gremlins. Cut the traction control off and zip tie the electronics some where. The system is old and archaic. On the e36 M3 it was common to remove the secondary throttle body for the traction control replaced with a z3 intake boot and zip tie the control cable out the way. It is just a flow restriction and you can just lift your foot to do the same thing. Leaving the electronics there kept the ABS working. You should check if you ABS still works with the traction control system messed up.
Definitely replace those capacitors. I had a couple of OG Xbox's working on leaking CPU power capacitors that then died. Replaced them and they started right back up no issue!
Is the goo under the capacitors squishy like rubber/silicone? It might be there to mechanically support the capacitors to help with vibration (to try and keep the solder joints from cracking) leaking capacitors tend to be a brown coloured fluid and once dry it's hard/brittle.
Before I converted my JZZ30 to manual with the V160, it had the OD and slip control lights flashing. It turned out to be the throttle control ECU being bad. I found a second hand spare which fixed it up.
best thign to do is go aftermarket ecu like link or haltech n then u can control the a340e
I didn't much like the colour in the previous video, as it gave me too much purple and 00's vibe, but it looks amazing driving around. Excellent colour choice.
Replace those caps. Then pull the traction ecu and the warning globes. That traction control is useless, and sometimes kinda dangerous. Much better without.
Loving this build, great work guys!
Had a similar TC issue; turned out to be the starter relay starting to go bad, as TC gets its power through it also. Swapped the relay, TC started working properly again.
If it were my car, I would just update to a new ECM, like a Haltech. Lots of the antiquated 90's systems are then able to be deleted. It simplifies and streamlines the engine bay, also making it look better. Check out The Skid Factory for examples.
As for the ECU & TCU, Pull it and reseat it. Spray electric contact cleaner on all the connections. That will rule out contact corrosion. If you have a wiring diagram, you can check the continuity on the harness from one unit to the other. You do have a length of wire and testing clips, right? Simple stuff, cheap and easy to check.
The splicing the wires behind the dash is a fix but I assume you may have the wrong wires it’s for fault 42 speed sensor error. We are going to run the traction control via the aftermarket ecu and ignition timing a lot better than the factory setup and with an aftermarket ecu the slip light always flashes I don’t even notice it anymore. If your going to go single turbo at all probably just go aftermarket ecu I solved sooo many issues with doing that it’s worth a thought depending on the direction of the build
Respect for targeting OEM+ build, but my preference would be for a standalone ECU and removal of the butterfly traction control system.
But this isn't a "build" perse, this is them returning a car that initially had a big turbo into a stock TT setup with bolt-ons mods in order to sell. The red Supra is the one they will actually be building. A standalone in a big investment for a car with light mods that they also intend on selling.
Brother it's not the traction control system it's the ECU capacitor the need to be changed and the ECU circuit board needs to be cleaned with ICI thinner or isopropyl alcohol also make sure the lines of conductor on the circuit board where the capacitor leaked are not broken if the are you will need to rejoin them using a thin gauge wire and your soldering flux
Love 90's cars guys, but one of the things i hate is 90's traction control. I would delete and spend more time with the boost creep issue.
Since boost is actually a measurement in relation to restriction, I'm curious if the over boost issue is being caused by the traction control blade in the throttle body. If it's not working properly like you guys suspect then it could be causing a restriction or essentially a choke point which would cause higher boost levels due to back pressure
@@kurtlamprecht93 yes it's measured after the throttle body but any restriction from the turbo to the intake manifold will cause over boost at wide open throttle which is the problem they seem to have.
@@kurtlamprecht93 Actually I'm not wrong. You're not understanding what I'm saying. I'm talking about the over boosting issue they are having at wide open throttle, not at idle or part throttle. If the secondary throttle blade that is part of the traction control system located at the opening of the throttle body is not working properly and partially closed at wide open throttle could cause an over boosting issue. It also could depend on their wastegate and blowoff valve setup as well
The capacitors are definitely bad. Send it out to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX and they’ll get you fixed up. I had a 1993 Celica GT-4 that had capacitor failure in the ECU. They fixed it with great turn around time and a fair cost.
As somebody who has been looking at a Trac Off light for years now, just close your eyes and drive! The system sucks anyways!
Yes, 100% agree. The TC back in those days was horrible.
When a capacitor goes 'leaky' it doesn't necessarily mean that the stuff inside leaks out. It can mean electrically leaky, ie they are 'leaking' current through them like a resistor.
indeed. they might looks fine yet went out of spec electrically
Yup, referred to as E.S.R.(Equivalent Series Resistance). Electrolytic Capacitors have a shelf life of around 20 years to be safe. So, Make note of the values, and replace every Electro Cap you can. Good luck guys.
Imo it’s wayyy easier to get a 2J to do what you want with an standalone versus the stock ecu…
11:43 Global sound every car enthusiast makes when car underbody is scraping through a speed breaker. :)
Could be a faulty ecu. My mkiv went through 2 of them
If you're going twins for the GT-R, maybe try something left field and old school. Twin GT2259 turbos with the external wastegate, should rev out to 8k pretty easy with good power down low.
Twin GT28's fow the win.
As someone in nz who has dealt with a lot of 90s jdm Toyota’s, 95% of the time with the pre obd2 cars like your supra it is normally ecu capacitors at fault . And they will cause random things to happen( like your traction butterfly to go wacky) all will come right once the caps are replaced.
Hi guys, I have had the exact same problem with my twin turbo auto, I tried all the things you have tried and that didn’t solve the flashing over drive and trac control lights flashing.
I even tried changing the caps in both the trac control and engine ecu, that didn’t solve it either, what I did in the end was get a refurbished ecu from a supra specialist in the uk called SRD and that solved the issue!!!!
You will find that everything will feel more responsive afterwards to, gearchanges and throttle response all be improved!
you can desolder the caps and test them with a multimeter.. the specs are posted on the side.. they are very cheap to buy
Also behind the odometer there is a common wire that comes loose and will flash the o/d light. Also it will cause tons of strange other issues.
If you tap the o/d wire into the blue and red wire next to it behind the odometer it will solve the flashing issue
series is amazing! whoever gets to buy this car is going to be so happy!
There should be a way to run diag on the TRC ecu. The motor is hunting. There are capacitor kits by ecu on line. I got one for an Aristo which comes with extras but i doubt that is uour problem. I would swap the trac motor from one supra to the next to trouble shoot. Also these things should be running JOBD2 which use a different protocol but some apps with obd2 readers allow switch8ng to jobd. I may not be fully accurate but in there, thete s info to go after it. You should probably reset the ecu after having played with the odo wires etc.
With the TCS they usually cut the whole thing right off the manifold before the TB. Due to these very issues.
Capacitors look bad and the acid could have destroyed some of the connections on the board itself. Replace the caps and clean the board. Keep it up guys. 👊🏽
try swapping the red car's traction ecu? didnt the original owner have the parts for a manual swap? Maybe they did something (cut/spliced wires, swapped ecu)?
If it's too much trouble maybe traction control delete is an option, but saying that rear wheel drive and good turbo power it needs traction control so the Supra doesn't kiss the kerb, so maybe a after market option, electronic one?
I would definitely replace those caps. They are so cheap. Plus the electrolyte fluid inside that is leaking onto the main board will eat through the PCB on the ecu in quick fashion.
Does this motor have the secondary air intake pump? The foam inside the secondary pump could have broken down causing all these issues too, potentially. Check the secondary air pump if it has one.
I took the auto apart on my JDM 1jz got confused about location of balls and springs took one look at the wiring and noped out of that and got a w52 from a junkyard the tall ratio sucked fora 2.5 I6 1jz but felt really smooth like a s2000 trans.
Those capacitors are definitely bad, based on the provided visuals. Went through something similar with my LS400. DIY'd the job - it took two tries to get those capacitors done right.
Even with no physical evidence the capacitor can be bad you can buy a ESR meter to be sure. Just change them its a fun and cheap project also do the ecu ones as well
Cars looking good , hoping to see another supercharger build this year from you, love the whine so much
Remove trac control ecu, remove fuse and disconnect the motor. It's a rubbish system that will cause you to crash if nothing else, it doesnt work anything like traction control should. The only benefit is snow mode for when the road is super slippery, it makes it easier to get around.
20psi is fine but not for the stock ecu. Get a link G4+ plug and play.
Is this connected to the over boost issue as well? Or is that a separate issue?
That blue looks so good on the Supra
Could it be the rear o2 sensors ? I had a issue that when the rear o2 sensor went out it triggered the traction control light to stay on and turn traction off. This was on a 1992 sc400.
i have a 6speed ecu i think there the same for the auto cars because the secondary ecu is for the trans. if you guys need one i got one for cheap
I’m dealing with this right now with my JDM RHD MK4, leaky capacitors, send it to Josh Beaumont of Relentless Motorsports in TX, he can fix these ECU’s.
I'm just loving the $20 ebay special knock-off HKS air filter
Better get your eyes checked, that is about as original as they get.
the traction control in my 2004 totoyta camry is awful, i cant imagine traction control thats 11 years older is any better. Just delete it, you dont need it or want it, and its just more potential failure points to break again in the future
90s Toyotas ECU always have leaky caps. This has plagued many MR2.
Don't know if its possible to wire in an MK-60 Bosch unit from an early e46 M3 without a standalone...
That last bit at the end there was a tongue-twister.
As I've said before. repair or replace the ECM...
What a headache dealing with the auto life! All my builds are manuals except for 1 and that’s the one I’m having issues with my 4l80 swap! Haha
Loving this build. That color is amazing.
I love your videos guys because I learn a lot... regards from Lima, Perú.
Make the traction control and all original systems work. That’s my opinion of course
As others have already said, those caps are done and need replacing.
Diagnosing a Toyota with a Nissan hat on, what a flex
If the caps are leaking electrolyte, they need to be replaced. They're bad. Also, if you don't clean that stuff up, it can corrode the traces on the board and destroy it.
Its because you didnt choose green. That was the best color.
I repair circuit boards and would definitely swap out those capacitors.
The fact that this car has not been nicknamed the Blupra (for blooper, blunder, and blue) bothers me to no end.
Wouldn’t manual swapping make it all better?
@Speed Academy as we chatted about before, unplug and remove the TRAC ECU. Mine has been removed since 1998 in a TT auto with zero issues; only gains. It will also stop the lights from flashing and constant on, no need to remove them. You don't want to disable the O/D light. Removing the TRAC ECU disables the TRAC butterfly motor and places it into the open position. When it fixes the problem, I'll listen for the shout out. 😀 I can send you my TRAC ECU, but you have to keep the DickButt sticker on it. Your main ECU is probably fine.
Nice rumble
Just bite the bullet and do a standalone! You're going to quickly find the limitations of the older systems and how they were just "good enough" for the stock power levels.
They're planning to sell it
This is the Supra they returned to a stock TT setup in order to sell. A standalone seems like a huge investment for something that essentially only has a couple bolt on mods.
Maybe there is a service that can repair your traction control ECU? I think I would delete that traction control, I think if it was more sophisticated I would really want to keep it but because it is so primitive and it is causing a problem I think I would remove it.
Def bad caps, overtime especially when they leak, they loose capacitance, and become less and less functional. Theyre not hard to replace, especially if theyre through hole like that, you could probably manage yourself with a bit of practice, (tip, put the iron to the joint, and then touch the solder to the joint, not the iron, otherwise you loose the flux present in the solder. also the thinner the solder the better. ) It may be worth just getting a new one anyways as loss of capacitance can cause greater damage depending on the caps use.
Stock turbo set up only safe to 17-18 psi. Watch your butt cause that could get ugly quick.
Caps bulge or leak when they go bad. Those sure look like they are leaking. That plus the code would make me ditch it. I would just run it with no traction control. If I was gonna sell it I would replace it. Maybe thats just me. In the end the new owner can pay for it and it can leave your hands in working order.
Looks like you’re pulling the whole dash to re-solder every joint 😂
Replace the capacitors for sure.
Ah yes, the flashing leds at the ecu to check the fault codes, good old times.
Before buying a new ECU or anything, why not try a swap with the one on the red Supra (well, if it works)? At least you will know if the error is the ECU or, if no change, somewhere else.
They are not swappable since its a manual car vs auto
can anyone let me know is it better to buy a diagnostic device or is it the same with buying diagnostic software on my laptop and connecting with a diagnostic USB kit
Look into having the board repaired on that ECU. You might have a board repair shop that has a hot air solder station that can replace the caps on the board. It all depends on how much they would charge v. finding a different factory ECU. It is another option. I would advise against trying a board level repair as a DIY job though. It is possible to replace bad components and wouldn’t be a bad thing to show people that that is an option rather than throwing away the whole unit just because some capacitors went bad. Also a good shop would be able to visually inspect all the surface mount components under a microscope to determine if there are any other issues.
You guys need to come to NYC and pick up my 3rd Gen Mitsubishi Montero and go thru it. They are becoming a thing again and the Montero international world could use your expertise show how.
really common issue with ecu's and toyotas..... time for haltech? :P
Get er Dun boys! almost there!
Just get the board / capacitors tested and cleaned by an ecu specialist. That should not be very expensive for a bench test and clean.
yessss! just in time for an update!
Love the colors
That color is sick!
Maybe the traction control valve is broken loose?
Sounds like a broken plastic gear.
Y’all guys need an exotic next, something old and expensive but totally fits the SA crew :)
Such as an NSX? ;-)
Definitely ‘solder joints’ and not “welds” - although it technically is a ‘weld’, as you’ve physically joined two parts together by fusing the material, I’ve never heard anyone refer to them in this way, although I am based in the UK ;)
Oh and leaky electrolytic caps are just one of those things on any old electronics. The electrolyte is a chemical component of what makes them function, so once it’s gone the circuit is hosed and as others mention they will effectively become resistors. They don’t always bulge, so that goo on the board is your evidence they are trashed. Clean it throughly with isopropyl when you desolder the old caps
When replacing caps always get good quality ones and you can typically go higher in value (both voltage and capacitance/farads) but not lower.
Ooze under the capacitors mean they are bad. Replace em