It’s pretty much every Japanese car on the market now. Even like 10 years ago you could find these in 16-28k range depends on the condition. You are literally better off buying a sc shell and dumping 30k in it to get a better car.
I think it's most japanese imports, it's such a shame that these cars are so inflated, dont get me wrong they are good cars but a Nissan Skyline r34 Gtr is not a 120k car, for that price i would prefer to go to a nissan dealership and buy a brand new r35 track edition or something like that
@@v8_sami I live in Ontario so I was hoping to get an automatic mk4 supra that's naturally aspirated and have the steering wheel on the wrong side just so I pay the cars value every month in insurance, it's lame picking up an SC300/400 for $4K and only paying $20/month because it's a LHD classic. Lol. If you are looking at importing a cool JDM car- look at the Aristo 4.0i, specifically one from 1993 and under will have the 1UZ-FE V8 with thick/forged internals and the car comes all wheel drive.
Japanese sports cars are the new muscle cars of this generation. I also see a lot of people who know squat about wrenching or just how cars work picking these 80s and 90s Japanese cars up just because they are trendy and cool at the moment, and it will be sad to see the state of dismay they will be in once they grow bored of it, or just can't keep up with the skilled care these things need.
@@v8_sami How about a Mitsubishi RVR Turbo, Galant/Legnum VR4 or FTO Version R? Can you pick one of those up for a more reasonable price? It seems like (maybe) the 90's JDM sportscars price rise passed them by? Or for an 80's car, how about a Mitsubishi Cordia (less desirable than the Stalion)? Or the North American market models like the Eclipse?
@3:42 when i went to a front mount on my Supra i bought a 2006 Honda Civic coolant reservoir which is thinner and I relocated it right in between the driver's side (USDM not rhd) headlight and the battery. It fits snuggly right there. Also those coil pack clips are notorious for getting brittle and breaking. Toyota sells the clips so you can replace them as well.
That's the stupidest way. Haven't you heard of a milwaukee high torque impact with a weighted socket. One slip with that breaker bar and you're destroying stuff.
Glad to see you guys are doing a supra. Gates and Greddy both make blue timing belts for the 2jzgte engine. Small fan on shroud is the a/c fan. A cheap solution to an overflow tank is using a 2006 civic overflow that fits between the fender and the battery behind headlight, its $20 from the dealer. It actually looks like OEM placement.
I did the same method to break loose the crankshaft pulley when I did my timing belt. I only “tapped” the key into start position once, easy peasy. It wasn’t coming loose any other way. OEM special tools and generic crank pulley wrench were tried first.
10:35 Yes you put the breaker bar against the chassis and crank the engine over and that breaks the bolt loose. But you only do that when its like over 150 ft lbs .. because most "dudes" are weak past 125 ft lbs ..
If you can't put the cooler tank close to the fuse box, you can leave it where it is, but make sure the piping is tight so there's enough vacuum for the coolant to get back to the radiator. It's very common for the ignition coil plugs to be deeply fried in these engines. Get some new plugs, put some nice insulation around the wires and the plugs and you'll be good for a long time. The small fan next to the big one is existent in other Toyota models as well. For example, the Celica ST182 has it as an auxiliary fan, in case the main engine fan fails, this fan will open at 105 degrees Celsius. More or less the same happens here as well.
We have always used that crank method for the crank bolts. But we have also used a power bar as well which is definitely worth the money for small engine bays etx
It's crazy seeing 2 supras and a skyline.🤯 Reading the comments on the crank pulley bolt, seems like it's a more common method to do. I personally never worked on an AT before so it might come in handy in the future. Thanks!
The smaller fan, is an auxiliary fan for the AC system to give additional cooling. Also that CX Racing turbo manifold, really showing its worth (IN THE BIN). Lastly i recommend Schley Products 64300 Lexus & Toyota hormonic damper pulley holding tool, AKA SCH64300 fairly inexpensive and i still use it 11 years later on my own 2JZ. Great video guys.
The breaker bar and crank method works. I was turning over a 13 litre truck engine with a large spanner once and forgot about it when I cranked the motor. Cracked that nut no issues! A better way is to make a simple piston block. Rod down the spark plug hole and a flat bar with some bolts into the rocker cover.
To remove these crank pulley bolt you can use a pulley holder (costs like $60). That holder bolts into the two holes on the face of the crank and has a slot for a breaker bar. It’s still a pain to break it loose but much better than try to hold the crank with a pry bar.
If you slot the stud holes on the under side of the exhaust manifold you can part install the nut then drop the manifold for final tightening, same for taking it off, would make life much easier. The manifold looks ok at first glance.
I definitely do the breaker bar/bump the starter method on crank pulleys and have yet to have it go wrong. Not saying it's a fool proof method because it's not, but so far so good.
My old 93 Altima 2.4 called for 3-4 hours to replace the intake manifold gasket. You needed dislocated wrists and magic sockets to cut that time but it was pretty bulletproof and everything else was easy to access. Gave it to a younger brother and he totaled it a couple of months later. Should've sold it instead
Not sure why you're going back to stock dual turbos. First time ever done on UA-cam lol. Trevor from Motion Auto TV ran a stock ECU with a big single 2J for years so it is possible. Love your channel! Keep at it!
15:10 I had a manifold like that on my nissan back 20 yrs ago, had to get the bottom 2 back bolts ON before the manifold was slid over the studs or else they would not go on and same thing, had to finger turn them all the way back, then finalize them with a crow foot, it was a bad design on the back 2 runners, but it was the ONLY manifold made for that motor because everyone went SR20 instead, i stayed with the ka24de motor, eventually i trashed that manifold and got a GATO manifold for it and still on there now
The manifold looks like cheap Ebay specials. Aside from weld quality I couldn't see there are "name brands" that look just as fun to install/remove as what you had to go tthrough.
Looking forward to seeing which wheels and what color wrap you guys end up going with. Appreciate you being consistent with your build videos! Can't say the same for some of the other You Tube car builders.
In while you guys are draining the coolent, I am wondering if you have a leaky injector or two, with the fuel leaking into the combustion chamber after the car is turned off, the residual fuel pressure pushes fuel past the leaking injector, which then drains down the cylinder walls and into the oil.
Breaker bar trick didn't work for my 1J. Had to jam a pry bar in the flex plate...then a breaker bar with a jack handle over it, as an extension. Sketchy A/F. Breaker bar technique worked perfectly for my old BH5 Legacy.
a turned up stock twin housing auto is actually really quick. with those cams and a decent fueling kit really whoom ever owns this next is a 93 oct tune away from making a solid like 400 ft lbs with early spool and that means great acceleration. I had a friend way back in the day with the ported twins and auto would front half so many big single 2jz's, naturally theyd back half him at the quarter but for street driving that instant punch of torque is so sweet. and its smooth! i6 power!
When using the breaker bar trick for the balancer bolt, you need the jam the bar hard against the chassis rail and just use the palm of you hand to hold it onto the bolt. What you did is the best chance of something going very wrong
@@speedacademy brett H is correct, when the breaker bar is up against the chassis and you hold the socket into the bolt, its NOT going anywhere but turning the bolt.
The belt could be a Gates Racing but I would doubt it if its a jdm import ? I'm glad this car is seeing some care and love because it really needs it. It may be the underdog with that trans but today, having a mild build while retaining some of the OE (+) character is what makes it also interesting. We all love hyper horsepower 2J and RB's making 4 digits power but with today's market going crazy, having a stockish + car I like that too
You could also use a DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Wrench which is rated 1200 ft lbs break away torque to remove that harmonic balancer bolt. This is much safer and is what I use and it works everytime.
Damn it I have places to be this morning but that alert........ I think I can squeeze the video in! EDIT - yeah I'm going to be late, but I absolutely LOVE episodes like this - very nice work fellas! It's almost enough to make up for your tasteless and terrible wheel choices!
@@traviswalker8933 it's a running theme with me and this channel that despite all of their great work, they insist on running flush spoked, positive offset wheels on nearly everything. I can't wait for the day they put some trash, +40 offset Civic ricers on that beautiful 1st gen Celica...... To answer your question: it's subjective, obviously, but start with a negative offset and a lip and go from there. Raid the Watanabe catalog!
The little fan is for when the A/C is turned on. Same setup on older 7mgte's. You guy's are awesome man.
What exactly does it do though? It powers the ac??
@@NewDesignVinylGraphics It cools down components.
@@NewDesignVinylGraphics It keeps airflow going through the A/C Condenser in front of the radiator.
its not a A/C fan at all, it is for the auto trans oil circulating in the water cooler
Plugged every hole, but did you give it a courtesy reach around?
DP - “And we’re going to tear into this thing. Let’s do it!”
Andddddd cue Pete 🤣
😂I mean you're not wrong
To be fair to Dave, that oil probably would've been jet black if it wasn't diluted with gas.
Starter with a breaker bar is how I broke these loose at the dealer for years! Works amazing!
OG way to do it.
DP you come out of nowhere with these comments “first night in prison treatment” 🤣🤣
Gotta sneak those in whenever I can #thatswhatshesaid
i almost spit out my dinner trying not to laugh
That one almost went over my head because I wasn’t paying attention and then I was like wait…what did he say? 😂
The most satisfying thing about your guys videos, to me, is how clean you guys work. I'm loving the jdm legends series btw!
This is really what 99% of the 40-50k turbo supras are like. Its sad what hype did to car prices.
It’s pretty much every Japanese car on the market now. Even like 10 years ago you could find these in 16-28k range depends on the condition. You are literally better off buying a sc shell and dumping 30k in it to get a better car.
I think it's most japanese imports, it's such a shame that these cars are so inflated, dont get me wrong they are good cars but a Nissan Skyline r34 Gtr is not a 120k car, for that price i would prefer to go to a nissan dealership and buy a brand new r35 track edition or something like that
@@v8_sami I live in Ontario so I was hoping to get an automatic mk4 supra that's naturally aspirated and have the steering wheel on the wrong side just so I pay the cars value every month in insurance, it's lame picking up an SC300/400 for $4K and only paying $20/month because it's a LHD classic. Lol.
If you are looking at importing a cool JDM car- look at the Aristo 4.0i, specifically one from 1993 and under will have the 1UZ-FE V8 with thick/forged internals and the car comes all wheel drive.
Japanese sports cars are the new muscle cars of this generation. I also see a lot of people who know squat about wrenching or just how cars work picking these 80s and 90s Japanese cars up just because they are trendy and cool at the moment, and it will be sad to see the state of dismay they will be in once they grow bored of it, or just can't keep up with the skilled care these things need.
@@v8_sami How about a Mitsubishi RVR Turbo, Galant/Legnum VR4 or FTO Version R? Can you pick one of those up for a more reasonable price? It seems like (maybe) the 90's JDM sportscars price rise passed them by? Or for an 80's car, how about a Mitsubishi Cordia (less desirable than the Stalion)? Or the North American market models like the Eclipse?
@3:42 when i went to a front mount on my Supra i bought a 2006 Honda Civic coolant reservoir which is thinner and I relocated it right in between the driver's side (USDM not rhd) headlight and the battery. It fits snuggly right there.
Also those coil pack clips are notorious for getting brittle and breaking. Toyota sells the clips so you can replace them as well.
I've been a technician for almost almost 21 years and that's the way we've always done them.
Done what
@@frontspring1 im assuming he’s talking about the crank pulley
That's the stupidest way.
Haven't you heard of a milwaukee high torque impact with a weighted socket.
One slip with that breaker bar and you're destroying stuff.
@@frontspring1 if it's stupid and it works is it still stupid? BTW im also a Tech and that is how we also do them.
@@7MGTEsupra89 tech at the cheese factory gtfo outta here
This is a great build. Shows the trouble of working on modified cars from other people. That intercooler pipe was hilarious.
In this case, it was a hodgepodge of bush fixes.
@@traviswalker8933 as most of these ricer builds are
You guys are killing it. Great job with the channel. We can tell all the hard work you put into these videos.
Glad to see you guys are doing a supra. Gates and Greddy both make blue timing belts for the 2jzgte engine. Small fan on shroud is the a/c fan. A cheap solution to an overflow tank is using a 2006 civic overflow that fits between the fender and the battery behind headlight, its $20 from the dealer. It actually looks like OEM placement.
Glad you guys are on these internets this morning
Man I just want to let yall know this is the one of two car channel I watch on UA-cam. No cap. Nothing else even compares. My number one car channel.
What is the other channel
@@SeanPhelps-qh2eu gears and gasoline. :D
@@g-mane7497 same here! I really like their coverage and participation with gridlife.
@@SeanPhelps-qh2eu yep. Literally I feel like the only two channels I can relate to lol
I did the same method to break loose the crankshaft pulley when I did my timing belt. I only “tapped” the key into start position once, easy peasy. It wasn’t coming loose any other way. OEM special tools and generic crank pulley wrench were tried first.
10:35
Yes you put the breaker bar against the chassis and crank the engine over and that breaks the bolt loose. But you only do that when its like over 150 ft lbs .. because most "dudes" are weak past 125 ft lbs ..
When I was removing crankshaft polley i just put big ugga dugga and it went off really easy
Gates and HKS made a blue timing belt
Yup, it's a Gates Racing belt.
At 13:00 it looks like you have rust on the bottom of that cam lobe. Might want to take them out for a better inspection.
It will probably be fine but worth a look. Would be alot more concerned if it was on a lobe.
I thought they were doing valve stem seals which requires the cam to come out
I've done the starter-breaker bar trick several times to break the balancer bolt. Works great!
Moving time lapse video was done really well! Pleasant to watch. 13:40 and 14:02
"the first night in prison treatment by plugging every hole" lmao
If you can't put the cooler tank close to the fuse box, you can leave it where it is, but make sure the piping is tight so there's enough vacuum for the coolant to get back to the radiator. It's very common for the ignition coil plugs to be deeply fried in these engines. Get some new plugs, put some nice insulation around the wires and the plugs and you'll be good for a long time. The small fan next to the big one is existent in other Toyota models as well. For example, the Celica ST182 has it as an auxiliary fan, in case the main engine fan fails, this fan will open at 105 degrees Celsius. More or less the same happens here as well.
it's wild how much these are going for these days...
Right? They look fun but not for the price
@@ItsCraifu to be fair the NSX was always expensive
Pretty nuts, my dream car but I had to settle for a c5 vette
@@blackbettyc5 C5 is a fun car to drive. Feels like there’s power from idle to redline. A Mk4 Supra might disappoint you in comparison.
@@moustachio334 fair enough, especially when I'm done building it lol goal is around 700whp. Love it as is tho!
That oil investigation music was a nice touch lol
We have always used that crank method for the crank bolts. But we have also used a power bar as well which is definitely worth the money for small engine bays etx
It's crazy seeing 2 supras and a skyline.🤯 Reading the comments on the crank pulley bolt, seems like it's a more common method to do. I personally never worked on an AT before so it might come in handy in the future. Thanks!
My pops has been doing that for years. I think the first time I seen him do it I was like 10 so 23 years ago haha
@@justincasiere9598 question: analyzing this method, you could do it on a manual too right? I'm also used to the pry bar method xD
loving the JDM Legends series boys :)
The factory Coolant overflow in my 02 Ep3 Civic is low. And it works fine.
"2JZ nightmare crank pulley bolt over 200 ft/lbs of torque"
*laughs in RB26*
Prepare to break the breaker bar
The smaller fan, is an auxiliary fan for the AC system to give additional cooling. Also that CX Racing turbo manifold, really showing its worth (IN THE BIN). Lastly i recommend Schley Products 64300 Lexus & Toyota hormonic damper pulley holding tool, AKA SCH64300 fairly inexpensive and i still use it 11 years later on my own 2JZ. Great video guys.
Definitely did that trick on my ranger to get bolt lose, it worked!
Said it before, saying it again. The best and most informative channel there is!! Keep it up guys👌
Popping the starter for a crank bolt is very effective 👌
08:56 guest appearance by Moose! Hope he’s still loving his modded Mazda 3!
The breaker bar and crank method works. I was turning over a 13 litre truck engine with a large spanner once and forgot about it when I cranked the motor. Cracked that nut no issues!
A better way is to make a simple piston block. Rod down the spark plug hole and a flat bar with some bolts into the rocker cover.
Hose is a boat exhaust hose... pretty expensive and not a bad idea for intercooler hose
To remove these crank pulley bolt you can use a pulley holder (costs like $60). That holder bolts into the two holes on the face of the crank and has a slot for a breaker bar. It’s still a pain to break it loose but much better than try to hold the crank with a pry bar.
That extra radiator fann is for the AC and extra cooling controlled by the ECU. That BW S364SX-E would spool around 3500-4000rpm.
If you slot the stud holes on the under side of the exhaust manifold you can part install the nut then drop the manifold for final tightening, same for taking it off, would make life much easier. The manifold looks ok at first glance.
I love all the series yall been doing keep it up!
I definitely do the breaker bar/bump the starter method on crank pulleys and have yet to have it go wrong. Not saying it's a fool proof method because it's not, but so far so good.
I like the “oil-roulette” music lmao 3:54
90s Japanese cars are my favorite to work on. Everything makes sense. They’re engineered so damn well.
are you including MR2 3S-GTE in that? or 6G72 in 3000GT, not exactly fun to work on
My old 93 Altima 2.4 called for 3-4 hours to replace the intake manifold gasket. You needed dislocated wrists and magic sockets to cut that time but it was pretty bulletproof and everything else was easy to access. Gave it to a younger brother and he totaled it a couple of months later. Should've sold it instead
That starter assisted bolt removal strategy is probably a good starter gear/flywheel tooth remover too.
Nice work. There are two bolts on the stick twins that are very hard to place. Probably easiest if you remove the engine.
Zip tie that breaker bar down when you hit the starter to control the rebound. It removes on of the sources of perceived danger.
Not sure why you're going back to stock dual turbos. First time ever done on UA-cam lol.
Trevor from Motion Auto TV ran a stock ECU with a big single 2J for years so it is possible.
Love your channel! Keep at it!
Because they are selling this one.
the greenline hose is a suction hose for vacuum trucks or water pumps
I just landed a job at a Valvoline oil change center. I can't wait.
15:10
I had a manifold like that on my nissan back 20 yrs ago, had to get the bottom 2 back bolts ON before the manifold was slid over the studs or else they would not go on and same thing, had to finger turn them all the way back, then finalize them with a crow foot, it was a bad design on the back 2 runners, but it was the ONLY manifold made for that motor because everyone went SR20 instead, i stayed with the ka24de motor, eventually i trashed that manifold and got a GATO manifold for it and still on there now
The manifold looks like cheap Ebay specials. Aside from weld quality I couldn't see there are "name brands" that look just as fun to install/remove as what you had to go tthrough.
That fuel in the oil looks to have worked as a great detergent. Hope everything is good with the engine!
Sure I bet the rod and main bearings are happy too and I bet he had great oil pressure with that diluted oil.
Guys we need 3 videos a week :) I know I'm being greedy but seeing small updates in each episode doesn't fill the appetite.
#facts
the manifold looks to be cxracing have one in my shed looks exactly the same
That little fan is probably an auxiliary fan for the A/C on really hot days. I had two of those in my mk3.
Glad to see you guys goin at this thing to make it proper driver!
Wow you have officially made me like MK4 Supras! loving the series keep it up!
I think you guys were becoming the "Beyond the Press" channel with that breaker bar routine!
Looking forward to seeing which wheels and what color wrap you guys end up going with. Appreciate you being consistent with your build videos! Can't say the same for some of the other You Tube car builders.
That little fan is for the aircon also the original radiator setup did not need an expansion bottle it just vented to the ground
Turbine rear end is really small for a Jz , but I think I see it has a t51 mod on the housing , it should make some nice spooly sounds
You lads need to have a look at what Munro turbos do with the supra turbos it's magic. All of the power
Brutal crank pulley bolt removal LOL. Heard about it but never saw anyone actually do it.
I have used the breaker bar technique on several vehicles
The blue timing belt is a Gates racing series. Really good belt.
In while you guys are draining the coolent, I am wondering if you have a leaky injector or two, with the fuel leaking into the combustion chamber after the car is turned off, the residual fuel pressure pushes fuel past the leaking injector, which then drains down the cylinder walls and into the oil.
Being Canadian love watching a Canadian channel
Breaker bar trick didn't work for my 1J. Had to jam a pry bar in the flex plate...then a breaker bar with a jack handle over it, as an extension. Sketchy A/F.
Breaker bar technique worked perfectly for my old BH5 Legacy.
a turned up stock twin housing auto is actually really quick. with those cams and a decent fueling kit really whoom ever owns this next is a 93 oct tune away from making a solid like 400 ft lbs with early spool and that means great acceleration. I had a friend way back in the day with the ported twins and auto would front half so many big single 2jz's, naturally theyd back half him at the quarter but for street driving that instant punch of torque is so sweet. and its smooth! i6 power!
The starter crank pulley removal trick would have been learned by mistake one day. Sure of it. :)
I used to do it at the Lexus dealer. It beats spending time with a torch heating it up over and over.
I think that small fan is for when the AC is on. Its the only time i see it on in my 1J
I use that starter trick all the time when they don't want to break free
When using the breaker bar trick for the balancer bolt, you need the jam the bar hard against the chassis rail and just use the palm of you hand to hold it onto the bolt. What you did is the best chance of something going very wrong
Id rather something get damaged in the engine then loose or mangle a hand holding the bar.
@@speedacademy brett H is correct, when the breaker bar is up against the chassis and you hold the socket into the bolt, its NOT going anywhere but turning the bolt.
Why would you install the OEM twin turbo setup? The turbos are inefficient. Confusing build
The gates racing timming belt on my EJ25 had that same blue color. Maybe its one of those
This might be the only series going from single turbo to stock twins! Usually it’s the other way around. Great series so far!😎
That borg warner is perfect. Going back to twins will have just as much lag.
Dyno chart please...
Really enjoying this series guys
It's looking so good already!
That cut n polish made a huge difference. Might be time to do my car
Beat combination to clean an engine bay easily; spray nine full concentrate and a pressure washer to rinse it off
The belt could be a Gates Racing but I would doubt it if its a jdm import ? I'm glad this car is seeing some care and love because it really needs it. It may be the underdog with that trans but today, having a mild build while retaining some of the OE (+) character is what makes it also interesting. We all love hyper horsepower 2J and RB's making 4 digits power but with today's market going crazy, having a stockish + car I like that too
"First night in prison treatment" 🤣🤣
I come for the cars but stay for the one liners 👏🏻
Nobody gonna talk about DP getting jacked? Looks like he dropped some lb’s. Keep it up!
You could also use a DEWALT 20V MAX XR Impact Wrench which is rated 1200 ft lbs break away torque to remove that harmonic balancer bolt. This is much safer and is what I use and it works everytime.
Wont fit in the area
Wondering if you guys will cover the shipping cost for this raffle coming up.
I'm late to this series - loving it!
Why not use a Stubby 1/2" impact and shallow socket for the crank bolt? You seem to have plenty of space for that.
Wouldnt loosen it. You need a big boy gun to get the bolt off
That bolt is over 200 ft lbs ...
I'm loving the content guys.. keep it up
Those clips are so common for deteriorating from the heat
Damn it I have places to be this morning but that alert........ I think I can squeeze the video in! EDIT - yeah I'm going to be late, but I absolutely LOVE episodes like this - very nice work fellas! It's almost enough to make up for your tasteless and terrible wheel choices!
And what would be the "ideal" wheels in your opinion?
@@traviswalker8933 it's a running theme with me and this channel that despite all of their great work, they insist on running flush spoked, positive offset wheels on nearly everything. I can't wait for the day they put some trash, +40 offset Civic ricers on that beautiful 1st gen Celica...... To answer your question: it's subjective, obviously, but start with a negative offset and a lip and go from there. Raid the Watanabe catalog!
@@mrbookends Watanabes are more suited for AE86s. But like you said, it's subjective.
Watch out for original style twin turbos, I hear they can be really problematic reliability wise. Something about ceramic turbos exploding...
I just saw that manifold on pfi’s video! What a headache tho
looking good gents, supra is coming along nicely
Looks good, I hope they did the valve seals do you don’t need to go back into there
You should do the manual swap and oem+ this is to good of a car to leave it an auto!
“First night in prison treatment” should be a shirt for suuuuure!!! Get me an xl for the suggestion 😉😉🔥
so good :)
What’s funny about male sexual assault?
That's how we remove the crank pulley on every cars here as well
That oil color tho... Never seen something like this. (It wasnt coffee lol it was chocolat milk 😝)