The like was for the very quick and casual "Pete's amazing tiny collection of" joke that I nearly missed. Well played my Canadian friends. Well played.
Ive gotten many parts cleaned with dry ice, like cylinder head, gearbox, engine block etc where i didn't want any blasting media residues. It worked great!
Dave: "You gotta love a JDM car - no rust, the fasteners work..." Three minutes later PT is cursing the backwards design of the pressure plate needing loosening before dismantling the transmission. Hahaha keep it real guys
ShoutoutVaporHoningTechnologies! -FYEAH ...All joking aside, seems like a good investment if you have as many projects as you guys. Supra is looking great so far!
You could quite easily add one more step after vapour honing to get rid of corrosion - Citric acid. It's used in baking quite often so you can get it in supermarkets, mix one part citric acid crystals with about 5 parts water and either bathe small parts, or soak a cloth and lay it on larger parts. It converts the rust into slag that easily comes off with a brillo pad and doesn't affect the material itself. Also works for shower and toilet cleaning lol
Look into dry ice blasting, it is a big investment but the results are phenomenal, you can literally dry ice blast everything on the vehicle and it won’t harm anything!
No need to pry that snap ring off to get the pressure plate out. Just remove the fork thru the inspection cover and then just take the pressure plate out 😊
Those vapor honing results are great! Dry ice blasting is perfect for when you want to sandblast but don't want to leave any sand/media in those areas.
The detail and care you put into your projects is fantastic. Those aluminium parts came out looking brand new. I think this is my favourite project of yours so far and I can't wait to see the finished result.
Wow that vapor honer looks awesome. I went over all my aluminum parts with wire brush type attachments for a drill. Similar results but holy crap does it take forever and its hard to get in the tight spots.
They're so good mechanically. only 2 camshafts, naturally harmonic (I have solid motor mounts and have almost 0 vibration). So much room to work with on both sides. You just need a slightly longer engine bay. Worth the tradeoff to me. Don't want to even think about the complexity of adding a turbo to a VQ motor.
@@BadDFWDrivers i've put a bottom mount and two top mount turbo kits on a VQ and it can be a nightmare with fitment. the BP bottom mount kit is leaps and bounds ahead especially with an air cooled turbo. the soho top mount kit is a pain in the ass but a poorly fitting top mount kit was so awful we ended up selling it
Great content, fellas! I'm looking to do a ground up build of a Volvo 2.5T motor with all the goodies, but it's going to be sitting on an engine stand in my living room for at least the entirety of winter lol. I've been chasing down a few of the products you mention here and there and I'll definitely be checking out the engine block paint. I like the brush applicator and it will suit my needs once the snow starts!
"and we have plugged up all the holes with Pete's amazing collection of tiny butt plugs" ...yes my friend its quality humor like this and great gear head content that has me coming back. Great episode as always gents.
Wire wheel of some descripton attached to one of your Milwaukee power tools to clean up that remaining muck on the gearbox, would get the job done fairly quickly and also get rid of the surface oxidation at the same time.
Made the clutch removal way harder than it needed to be. The fork comes out pretty easy from the other side and the bearing can just stay on the pressure plate.
The one thing a lot of people forget to do while and engine is out is check or change the Welch plugs. They can look perfect from the outside and be completely rotted on the inside and start leaking after you get the motor hot for the first time after the install.
oh yeah, the millwakee nut buster is literally the only one that breaks those crank pully bolts loose. i've tried with many different brands and millwakee and snap on are the best one's for the job.
I'm so jealous guys...i wish i had a shop next to my house or a shop i can live in to air cars and work on them every day💪 the acid aluminum cleaner is called "Clearly Pink Pro". there's also a dry ice cleaning process that's portable, but i like that vapor blasting too.
An ultrasonic bath is the best hands down to clean parts.. downside is that it takes some time but nothing come close.. when the parts are finished bathing they looks like brand new inside out.
Alloy wheel acid cleaner is good for non polished alloy, play with concentration and dwell time, it will remove all the black ingrained dirt and white fur. If you used it on polished alloy you will get streaks.
hey guys not sure if you've heard of it but some detailing shops offer dry ice blasting which will clean those parts the rest of the way to make them look great
Tavarish showed some dry ice pressure washing I wonder how well that would work cleaning wise, especially since you won't be limited by space like vapor honing
Dry ice blaring service would clean it up. Contempo Concept’s channel does it and works so very well. Don’t know if anyone offers that service in your area.
Had to take the trans off my Evo X the same way last time I did the clutch because the TOB was wedged into the PP. Definitely odd to see that be the official way to do it on a 2J.
With that vapor blaster, is there no need to protect mating surfaces and such? I know when you sandblast, it's best to protect those areas from the blasting material.
Have you guys thought about using a steam cleaner to clean those parts? That probably would get off some of that stubborn grime. You can get some decent small steam cleaners for about 100 bucks.
Hey Speed Academy, I just picked up a 4Runner and I want to give it the Fluid Film (Black) treatment just like you did but I can't find it (FF Black) anywhere in Calgary. Hopefully you can let Fluid Film know that your videos are drumming up demand but there's a lack of distributors out West.
Paint is still porous, and will still get dirt in it. Bout the only thing that paint/clear coat will do is make it more shiny if its clean. I don't know if ceramic coating would help either since it just tightens the pores and the casting would still offer at lot to stick to.
you just had to pull on the clutch fork no need to remove it with the pressure plate .. on the car you have to do it this way because its doesent clear the tunel
Isn't it the best pressure washing under a car? Rain coat with a hood helps though. I know I said this before but make a habit of doing a cleaning before you rip a car apart if you have the means to.
You only need to take the box off like that if its in the car. If its on the ground just pull the fork out... Its on the other side. you're looking in the wrong service hole! You just pull and it unclips.
The like was for the very quick and casual "Pete's amazing tiny collection of" joke that I nearly missed.
Well played my Canadian friends. Well played.
Looking forward to the new items in the merch store: 'Pete's Plugs'
New merch to fund a dry ice blaster?? 😁
Pete’s bu¥¥plugs made me laugh like a Greek in the middle of the office 🤣
Dry ice blasting would be good for the block and transmission
Eh, 2js are iron blocks. Wire wheel and vht black it.
Ive gotten many parts cleaned with dry ice, like cylinder head, gearbox, engine block etc where i didn't want any blasting media residues. It worked great!
Dry ice blasting FTW!
Dave: "You gotta love a JDM car - no rust, the fasteners work..."
Three minutes later PT is cursing the backwards design of the pressure plate needing loosening before dismantling the transmission. Hahaha keep it real guys
😂😂😂😂
I used the por15 engine enamel on my 4g63 block and was very happy with the outcome. The rear area near the dipstick was a total rusty mess before
ShoutoutVaporHoningTechnologies! -FYEAH ...All joking aside, seems like a good investment if you have as many projects as you guys. Supra is looking great so far!
You could quite easily add one more step after vapour honing to get rid of corrosion - Citric acid. It's used in baking quite often so you can get it in supermarkets, mix one part citric acid crystals with about 5 parts water and either bathe small parts, or soak a cloth and lay it on larger parts. It converts the rust into slag that easily comes off with a brillo pad and doesn't affect the material itself. Also works for shower and toilet cleaning lol
Look into dry ice blasting, it is a big investment but the results are phenomenal, you can literally dry ice blast everything on the vehicle and it won’t harm anything!
I second POR-15. I use their brake caliper paint and I am about to go on my third winter. Not peeling off and has not faded.
@3:55 i was going to say, i still have my stock clutch in my Supra after 157k miles and it holds power plenty. Underrated trans/clutch for sure.
I own the same impact and it removed that bolt like nothing. Great tool
No need to pry that snap ring off to get the pressure plate out. Just remove the fork thru the inspection cover and then just take the pressure plate out 😊
They were looking in the wrong side? Maybe they didnt realise there's a service hole on each side
Those vapor honing results are great! Dry ice blasting is perfect for when you want to sandblast but don't want to leave any sand/media in those areas.
The detail and care you put into your projects is fantastic. Those aluminium parts came out looking brand new. I think this is my favourite project of yours so far and I can't wait to see the finished result.
Wow that vapor honer looks awesome. I went over all my aluminum parts with wire brush type attachments for a drill. Similar results but holy crap does it take forever and its hard to get in the tight spots.
Love the attention to detail with you guys!
Like said here before, dry ice cleaning should clean everything like new! 👌🏼
That crank bolt socket is worth its weight in gold!
The cheapest you can get into vapor honing would be the pressure washer attachment, I've seen the cheapest hovering around $20-30
Wow the Vapor honing is a game changer! I need one of those
I've always been drawn to an inline 6 block, for some reason i find them to be a work of art...
Looking very good as usual guys
They're so good mechanically. only 2 camshafts, naturally harmonic (I have solid motor mounts and have almost 0 vibration). So much room to work with on both sides. You just need a slightly longer engine bay. Worth the tradeoff to me. Don't want to even think about the complexity of adding a turbo to a VQ motor.
VR6 is life though
@@BadDFWDrivers i've put a bottom mount and two top mount turbo kits on a VQ and it can be a nightmare with fitment. the BP bottom mount kit is leaps and bounds ahead especially with an air cooled turbo. the soho top mount kit is a pain in the ass but a poorly fitting top mount kit was so awful we ended up selling it
Great content, fellas! I'm looking to do a ground up build of a Volvo 2.5T motor with all the goodies, but it's going to be sitting on an engine stand in my living room for at least the entirety of winter lol. I've been chasing down a few of the products you mention here and there and I'll definitely be checking out the engine block paint. I like the brush applicator and it will suit my needs once the snow starts!
"and we have plugged up all the holes with Pete's amazing collection of tiny butt plugs" ...yes my friend its quality humor like this and great gear head content that has me coming back. Great episode as always gents.
Memories of the Ass2000 clutch battle when you mentioned that one being pull type
MAN!!! those cars in the background!!! WOW
Some folks play power wash cleaner games, I choose to watch satisfying vids of Speed Academy restoring engine Plus builds
Wire wheel of some descripton attached to one of your Milwaukee power tools to clean up that remaining muck on the gearbox, would get the job done fairly quickly and also get rid of the surface oxidation at the same time.
Made the clutch removal way harder than it needed to be. The fork comes out pretty easy from the other side and the bearing can just stay on the pressure plate.
Love my R154. Tough and rugged. Great trans.
The one thing a lot of people forget to do while and engine is out is check or change the Welch plugs.
They can look perfect from the outside and be completely rotted on the inside and start leaking after you get the motor hot for the first time after the install.
It's all starting to look brand new!!
You guys are gaining new subs pretty quick. Last time I checked y'all were at 200k+ subs. Now 500k+? Holy smokes
I own that Milwaukee impact. I had no doubt it would easily take that crank bolt off.
oh yeah, the millwakee nut buster is literally the only one that breaks those crank pully bolts loose. i've tried with many different brands and millwakee and snap on are the best one's for the job.
I'm so jealous guys...i wish i had a shop next to my house or a shop i can live in to air cars and work on them every day💪 the acid aluminum cleaner is called "Clearly Pink Pro". there's also a dry ice cleaning process that's portable, but i like that vapor blasting too.
Vapor honing is magic!
An ultrasonic bath is the best hands down to clean parts.. downside is that it takes some time but nothing come close.. when the parts are finished bathing they looks like brand new inside out.
good stuff guys! looking forward to the next one
Damn you guys are awesome! Maybe one day our paths will cross since I am in Ottawa!
you could ceramic coat the inside window of the vapor honer so the liquid runs off faster for better visibility
I wonder if you can ceramic coat the inside of the blast cabinet so you can see better through it and so that the videos come out better as well.
Wow, learning so much about the V160 (which I've got in my JZZ30). What a strange way of removing it from the engine!
Alloy wheel acid cleaner is good for non polished alloy, play with concentration and dwell time, it will remove all the black ingrained dirt and white fur. If you used it on polished alloy you will get streaks.
"How could we get rid of that deep grime?" Dry ice blasting FTW.
You guys should invest in a dry-ice blaster it works great and gets it back to showroom quality.
It's amazing how much time and effort you guys put into your work and videos. It really shows, thank you!
Glad to know my 1997 Camaro has something in common with a MkIV lol. We share a pull type clutch setup haha.
2:38 Terrible design hehe
Supra is definitely in my top list of desired cars, keep the episodes coming, I'm hooked tine butt plugs and all. hehe
You guys should paint all the plastic engine covers and valve covers one colour so it can look as cool as the RB
i have the little version of that milwaukee and it's incredible, 200ftlbs and i only charge it maybe once a month
hey guys not sure if you've heard of it but some detailing shops offer dry ice blasting which will clean those parts the rest of the way to make them look great
Great job as always!
You guys should try dry ice blasting and see how it compares to the vapor honing.
Tavarish showed some dry ice pressure washing I wonder how well that would work cleaning wise, especially since you won't be limited by space like vapor honing
If you're talking about dry ice blasting, don't mention that hack. TommyFYeah is the king of dry ice blasting
We dont have the funds for a dry ice machine so this is the next best thing
@@AgaetiAlex the dryce man is the king, not tommy
@@speedacademy Well that's a bummer but maybe some day! Being able to blast whatever without needing to worry a lot about damage seems awesome
I've always used oven cleaner to clean parts that don't have paint on them... Cause it will definitely take the paint off. It works really well though
Thats sooo Fyeah spec dood
Pete's amazing collection of tiny what now? 😂🤣🤣
Dry ice blaring service would clean it up. Contempo Concept’s channel does it and works so very well. Don’t know if anyone offers that service in your area.
Use WAKO’S metal compound, its so simple and the results are staggering.
Try dry ice blasting it it will look new. 😊👍🏽🤙🏽
would like to hear more about that Pate's collection....
Nice hat DP!
Gotta get that man Tommy f yeah up there to pay a visit!
You could always try using a dry ice cleaner for the trans, mind you I don't know the pricing though
Had to take the trans off my Evo X the same way last time I did the clutch because the TOB was wedged into the PP. Definitely odd to see that be the official way to do it on a 2J.
With that vapor blaster, is there no need to protect mating surfaces and such? I know when you sandblast, it's best to protect those areas from the blasting material.
Could use dry ice blasting if you have yet to here of it.
If it was restoring for concours or something could you try dry ice or something for the throttle body?
Will the vapor honing remove the protective finish on those studs?
Have you guys thought about using a steam cleaner to clean those parts? That probably would get off some of that stubborn grime. You can get some decent small steam cleaners for about 100 bucks.
power washign inside is still hilarious to me
Fyeah spec
I wonder if POR15 traps heat in the engine block?
super clean :D
At last the gtr hood has opened!Any update on that?
Would'nt dry ice blasting do a great job?
“Pete’s Amazing collection of butt plugs” hahaha I about died!
Where did you get that engine stand drip tray?
Dry ice bros 😎
Hey Speed Academy, I just picked up a 4Runner and I want to give it the Fluid Film (Black) treatment just like you did but I can't find it (FF Black) anywhere in Calgary. Hopefully you can let Fluid Film know that your videos are drumming up demand but there's a lack of distributors out West.
Its not available in Canada yet. They are working on it. If you want it bad enough it can be ordered through Amazon US
@@speedacademy Ah, makes sense then. Thanks for the heads up!
Is it possible to clear coat those aluminum parts to keep them clean? That cast stuff seems to get dirty pretty fast.
Paint is still porous, and will still get dirt in it. Bout the only thing that paint/clear coat will do is make it more shiny if its clean.
I don't know if ceramic coating would help either since it just tightens the pores and the casting would still offer at lot to stick to.
How does that machine compare to dry ice blasting?
hay guys next time try that dry ice blasting
You guys should do a "how to covert to AN lines"........
Omg you need a knee board 😬 my knees hurt from seeing you pulling those flywheel bolts
good stuff
Is it okay that electrical plugs get wet ?
Hey boys did you end up servicing the transmission at all?
Definitely need a dry ice blaster on the transmission. I’m sue someone up there has one
What's going on with the EVO 6?
Can I dry ice blast my carbonized intake valves? 🤔
PT’s collection of what😳😳😂
you just had to pull on the clutch fork no need to remove it with the pressure plate .. on the car you have to do it this way because its doesent clear the tunel
For delicate parts use a sand blaster gun filled with baking soda.
Isn't it the best pressure washing under a car? Rain coat with a hood helps though. I know I said this before but make a habit of doing a cleaning before you rip a car apart if you have the means to.
Can anyone recomnend good cleaning chemicals for aluminium parts? A lot of chemicals say on the label not safe on aluminum.
I've found WD-40 is a fantastic cleaner for aluminum parts
for cleaning dry ice
sad news for Pete he is gonna do same process for his R34 transmission too they're same
You only need to take the box off like that if its in the car. If its on the ground just pull the fork out... Its on the other side. you're looking in the wrong service hole! You just pull and it unclips.