3hrs they spent on that. Omg, its an exclamation ❗, meaning have a look around, maybe theres a warning light on. You could see the door and seatbelt light on as he was sat there. So frustrating to watch
This is one of my favorite channels. Good genuine fun and excitement. No cheesy jokes, sexual innuedo jokes, sleezy jokes. Just to the point and honest about it.
For the overboost situation…I come from a DSM background and one of the things that would happen on a 1G eclipse is when you put a downpipe on it, it would free up a lot of back pressure and you would end up getting “boost creep”. Instead of creating more back pressure, why not do what we did with the turbos and port the waste gate around the actuator that way you still have the free flowing exhaust you want while not having to worry about over boosting the car. Only real downfall is you’ll need to take the turbos out to do so but it’s a cure vs a bandaid fix.
I suspect that wouldnt work on this setup due to the wastegate size being so small and truth be told, the 6+hour job to pull turbos to try this theory wouldn't be worth it at all. The restrictor plate works like a charm and has no real downsides.
@@speedacademyI probably didn’t explain it very well but yes, you would have to take the turbos out (then take them apart) and port around the flap where the flap bleeds off excess air to regulate the boost pressure. It’s a pain but works extremely well. The only main downside to the restrictor plate is now you have a slightly larger than a 2” exhaust cause it’s only as free flowing as the most restrictive part. Anyway, thanks for the reply
@@speedacademy limiting power would be the downside. The factory boost controller and all the sequential plumbing and actuators and vsv's involved cause poor boost control. I removed all vsv's, tied all actuators open with wire in the exhaust and ontop of the piping and plumed my own ebc into both turbos, even though the rear turbos wastegate does not control boost. This makes the turbos run parallel, removing the bug where the second turbo doesnt always come online at 4500rpm, and giving earlier peak boost and earlier peak torque without sacrificing top end. You only lose a little bit of power between 1000 and 2500rpm. I ran a perfect 14.7psi for years with a custom 3" exhaust from Y pipe back making 250rwkw until I upgraded the ecu later and made 23psi for another 4 years. They are good strong turbos as long as you keep the heat out of them and let them breathe. 12.0 @ 125mph on stock twins (manual) Fuel cut defender effectively leans the car out btw, fooling the car into thinking you are running 15psi when you are running 18psi. Meaning its putting on the fuel required for 15psi when you are making 18psi.
@@Skirk84 We looked at the option of running them in parallel but after looking at dyno charts and figuring we wanted a near stock setup this was the way to go. As for the restrictor limiting power, when you see the dyno results in the upcoming video I dont think the restrictor did anything to limit the power.
@@Skirk84 If they are only going up to 18psi its doubtful it will get leaned out by any meaningful measure. The 2jzs run pretty rich to begin with, the 2 ive seen with widebands were still in the 11s. Oil squirters, cast pistons, in the 11s, ehhh.
She's still chillin' in Baltimore with Carbon Daddy Tim at the Street Bandito channel, but he is threatening to finish her off this month #youcantrushthecarbondaddy
Really appreciate the commitment to fully sorting this rather than just letting small problems persist. It's nice to know what's involved in the full process.
@John Romeis Same here, I was curious why on everything that triangle is on and find out that really it will go on on any little thing, which somehow is annoying.
Just a heads up fellas that triangle light is just a kinda visual aid warning light to let you know that another light is on because the huge triangle is in the middle of the dash and a focal point t of the dash. Where as most other warning lights are off to the side of the dash. Like handbrake for example when it’s up you’ll have the handbrake light on and that triangle and same for the doors. You’ll have the open door light on and that triangle on to. Loving the show keep up the awesome content!
The restriction is not needed you need to check the wastegate actuators.. they are probably stuck or blinding or not receiving proper signal. Also Oem pump is already good for 290lph at 43psi.
Same here with my 1JZ GTE overboosting, had to add the 2 in restrictor. On cold days it would boost up to 1.1 Bar and make the car hit fuel cut. I installed mine on the midpipe to catback section.
At least you took it to a board repair shop. Rather than just scrapping the ECU and TCU for another one with questionable history. Board repair is a thing people should be aware of.
Congratulations 500k sub guys. I been here since the beginning beginning and love seeing you guys grow on UA-cam. I freakn love your channel and content.
The red triangle is indicator for your parking brake being engaged... If its all the way down, I suggest inspecting the lead wire, ground wire, and switch in the unit to see if its not shorting out anywhere. My 94 jdm has a 5 speed, anytime i lift up on the parking brake the light engages. When i drop the parking brake all the way down the red triangle goes away. Before inspecting all that, just try to pull it up a couple clicks, and make sure it drops all the way back down. By looking at video footage im suspecting your parking brake is up by 1 notch. Thats enough to light the triangle up. Hopefully this helps with your concern. Red triangle has absolutely nothing to do with engine codes, misfires, etc. There is a separate check engine light in the dash for that. which would be under the KM Odometer, or beside the fuel gauge on the right side.
I had the same problem with my 2004 BA Falcon Wagon which kept throwing up fifty or more gearbox codes and eventually wouldn't shift out of 'Limp-home' mode. Even after a gearbox overhaul ($600+ AUD), it started doing it again after a week. After seeing the massive amount of continuing codes, the shop found the ECU/computer module itself was heavily glitched, to the point it had to be replaced. After having a new one programmed for the wagon, it fixed the issue. The garage was pretty decent: they took the price of the gearbox overhaul off the computer price, reducing it by half, so it became affordable. If your car starts throwing multiple and random codes, get the computer checked! A check might cost you $50, but it might save you thousands trying to chase things down...
I ran my CT12's up to 20+psi on my JZZ30 non turbo for well over 6 years without issue. But i've often read about the CT20s needing a restrictor ring to limit boost.
That middle warning light is to tell you that a warning light is on. Either seatbelt, door, handbrake, engine, whatever. Any of these warnings will cause the center warning light to be lit, so you take notice and look around. Look to the left or right of the dash, if any of those red or orange lights are on the center light will be lit. It was not the active spoiler (facepalm)
@@speedacademydave dang… will you still be keeping the the motor and button for the active spoiler. I’m trying to install that feature to my Lina 😍 that’s my Supras name 😬
Not sure if you figured out the caution/ exclamation mark in dash light. Though it goes on with the operations of the emergency/parking brake; I had run down this route myself lol. Assuming while moving the car in shop you released the parking brake.
What if the boost issue was fixed by the ecu being fixed? Maybe the waste gate was not opening enough because the ecu was not telling it to open soon enough
@@speedacademy I suppose now it might be too late because you guys are selling it and technically fixed the issue with the restrictor plate, but I did read that overboost on the JDM 2JZ-GTE could be because of undersized waste gate ports and the USDM 2JZ-GTE with 3 inch downpipe might not suffer from this, so the sizing of the waste gate ports might be a common issue for those JDM engines
@@Aston6Speed the wastegates are indeed different between JDM and USDM. 20mm vs 30mm but the overboosting issues is also related to the bigger downpipe that was installed. I still don't know why these guys installed JDM turbos which in the Supra community, everyone knows they are weaker than their USDM counterpart. USDM are steel while the JDM are ceramic.
Would a removable restrictor in the exhaust tip not do the same thing as the one you made? Would be easier to access instead of going under the car and unbolting the exhaust back section. Great work guys, love your channel.
ahh yes! My fuel pump died before I even got my supra lol. I actually put the exact same fuel pump in mine :) Mine didn't plug straight in though. I had to cut and join the wires.
the banjo clamp on the fuel tank lid is there as a redundancy to stop the plastic thread from undoing caused from vibration over engineered by japanese engineers lol cheers from down under
I love watching your videos. You guys are always very descriptive and detailed with your r&r’s. I always learn something new. Keep up the amazing work guys!
If the wastegate isn’t working, the “right” way is to introduce the WG in the path of more exhaust flow correct? Or, moving to a larger WG. Additionally, you BOV could also correct pressures on the compression side.
well, yeah. those caps are usually on power lines to filter out noises from their power lines that could mess up the control units. this is one of many reason why modern computers started to use solid caps as much as possible. they're more reliable and more heat tolerant. BUT, you can't direct swap wet electrolytics with solid ones. only swap when you know the circuit would behave as intended.
The warning triangle light turns on in my mk3 Supra when the handbrake is engaged. Even one click, it will detect it and put up the triangle. The handbrakes are mechanically connected drums in the inner hub of the rear rotors. Might be a faulty sensor at either end, or the cable engaging the parking brake somehow. My two cents.
500K subscribers!!!
Congrats! NOBODY deserves it more than you guys!
I was literally screaming at my TV, "CLOSE THE DOORS AND RELEASE THE HAND BRAKE!!".
Same. That was painful. Lol
3hrs they spent on that. Omg, its an exclamation ❗, meaning have a look around, maybe theres a warning light on. You could see the door and seatbelt light on as he was sat there. So frustrating to watch
🤣🤣🤣🤣facttsssssss
This is one of my favorite channels. Good genuine fun and excitement. No cheesy jokes, sexual innuedo jokes, sleezy jokes. Just to the point and honest about it.
I really love the problems we’re chased down. The process to complete the task is really helpful .
This Supra content finally got the boys to 500k! Super happy for you guys
For the overboost situation…I come from a DSM background and one of the things that would happen on a 1G eclipse is when you put a downpipe on it, it would free up a lot of back pressure and you would end up getting “boost creep”. Instead of creating more back pressure, why not do what we did with the turbos and port the waste gate around the actuator that way you still have the free flowing exhaust you want while not having to worry about over boosting the car. Only real downfall is you’ll need to take the turbos out to do so but it’s a cure vs a bandaid fix.
I suspect that wouldnt work on this setup due to the wastegate size being so small and truth be told, the 6+hour job to pull turbos to try this theory wouldn't be worth it at all. The restrictor plate works like a charm and has no real downsides.
@@speedacademyI probably didn’t explain it very well but yes, you would have to take the turbos out (then take them apart) and port around the flap where the flap bleeds off excess air to regulate the boost pressure. It’s a pain but works extremely well. The only main downside to the restrictor plate is now you have a slightly larger than a 2” exhaust cause it’s only as free flowing as the most restrictive part. Anyway, thanks for the reply
@@speedacademy limiting power would be the downside. The factory boost controller and all the sequential plumbing and actuators and vsv's involved cause poor boost control.
I removed all vsv's, tied all actuators open with wire in the exhaust and ontop of the piping and plumed my own ebc into both turbos, even though the rear turbos wastegate does not control boost. This makes the turbos run parallel, removing the bug where the second turbo doesnt always come online at 4500rpm, and giving earlier peak boost and earlier peak torque without sacrificing top end. You only lose a little bit of power between 1000 and 2500rpm. I ran a perfect 14.7psi for years with a custom 3" exhaust from Y pipe back making 250rwkw until I upgraded the ecu later and made 23psi for another 4 years. They are good strong turbos as long as you keep the heat out of them and let them breathe.
12.0 @ 125mph on stock twins (manual)
Fuel cut defender effectively leans the car out btw, fooling the car into thinking you are running 15psi when you are running 18psi. Meaning its putting on the fuel required for 15psi when you are making 18psi.
@@Skirk84 We looked at the option of running them in parallel but after looking at dyno charts and figuring we wanted a near stock setup this was the way to go. As for the restrictor limiting power, when you see the dyno results in the upcoming video I dont think the restrictor did anything to limit the power.
@@Skirk84 If they are only going up to 18psi its doubtful it will get leaned out by any meaningful measure. The 2jzs run pretty rich to begin with, the 2 ive seen with widebands were still in the 11s. Oil squirters, cast pistons, in the 11s, ehhh.
Your persistence on this build is nice to see, looking forward to seeing the next video
Congrats on 500k!!!! My favorite channel since I found you guys at 30k with the S2000
Yesss, so happy to see the blue Supe boosting nicely! I should probably check mine for leaky caps too now... 😅
Just having this done to the ECU in my old Toyota Super Custom van, hoping for a similar win! - Taz.
Easily my favourite car channel these days. Love all the builds!
Where's Connie???
She's still chillin' in Baltimore with Carbon Daddy Tim at the Street Bandito channel, but he is threatening to finish her off this month #youcantrushthecarbondaddy
Really appreciate the commitment to fully sorting this rather than just letting small problems persist. It's nice to know what's involved in the full process.
Glad to see the channel is growing! Loving the last few car series, keep it up guys.
I'm learning so much about specific troubleshooting & also appreciate the companies you trust so that we can get through projects as well.
“All you had to do is give up”
Lmao
Loving the constant Supra content boys! Cannot wait for the R34GTR build next!
"Beater" Supra is looking awesome!
Congrats on 500K!! Yuuuuuuge accomplishment, you guys deserve it, such great content!
I feel like it needs a manual swap to get rid of all the problems
they said in the firdt video they would swap it
congratulations on 500k! you guys are one of the best automotive youtuber out there
The hole time that triangle was lit i was like
Close the doors
Close the hood...
Close them rahhhh 🤣
Whole*
@@earnestbunbury2103 scuse moi
Just close the door, release handbrake and alarm sign will go :D
Was just gonna say this 😂
@John Romeis Same here, I was curious why on everything that triangle is on and find out that really it will go on on any little thing, which somehow is annoying.
Totally 😃
Love you guys! Keep up the content! I believe you showing your troubles really adds to the viewership, a lot of sweat goes a long way in the end!
Just a heads up fellas that triangle light is just a kinda visual aid warning light to let you know that another light is on because the huge triangle is in the middle of the dash and a focal point t of the dash. Where as most other warning lights are off to the side of the dash. Like handbrake for example when it’s up you’ll have the handbrake light on and that triangle and same for the doors. You’ll have the open door light on and that triangle on to.
Loving the show keep up the awesome content!
The restriction is not needed you need to check the wastegate actuators.. they are probably stuck or blinding or not receiving proper signal. Also Oem pump is already good for 290lph at 43psi.
Same here with my 1JZ GTE overboosting, had to add the 2 in restrictor. On cold days it would boost up to 1.1 Bar and make the car hit fuel cut. I installed mine on the midpipe to catback section.
Huge success on the Supra! Pretty exciting catching up on your guys videos!
At least you took it to a board repair shop. Rather than just scrapping the ECU and TCU for another one with questionable history. Board repair is a thing people should be aware of.
Congratulations 500k sub guys. I been here since the beginning beginning and love seeing you guys grow on UA-cam. I freakn love your channel and content.
The triangle light also comes on when the e-brake is applied
congrats on the 500k subscribers! It's been a quite of a journey for you guys!
Thank you for pronouncing Nevada properly!! Shout out from Reno, NV!!
The red triangle is indicator for your parking brake being engaged...
If its all the way down, I suggest inspecting the lead wire, ground wire, and switch in the unit to see if its not shorting out anywhere.
My 94 jdm has a 5 speed, anytime i lift up on the parking brake the light engages.
When i drop the parking brake all the way down the red triangle goes away.
Before inspecting all that, just try to pull it up a couple clicks, and make sure it drops all the way back down.
By looking at video footage im suspecting your parking brake is up by 1 notch. Thats enough to light the triangle up.
Hopefully this helps with your concern.
Red triangle has absolutely nothing to do with engine codes, misfires, etc.
There is a separate check engine light in the dash for that. which would be under the KM Odometer, or beside the fuel gauge on the right side.
warning lights on 90s Japanese vehicles can be such a fun thing to figure out! lol
As soon as the hammer and chisel came out I knew we would be able to work together 😂👌
Congratulations on 500k subscribers guys!!
Serious kudos to you for making such great content
lesssgooooooo
It's makes sense to put in the restrictor, it controls boost and the exhaust gives you the sound you like.
Out of curiosity did you test to see if it still over boosted after the ECU repair and before the installing the restriction in the exhaust?
Yes and it was hitting boost cut (so still overboosting) as the capacitors seem to have fixed the issue of it not working anymore.
Holy shit! 500k!!! Congrats guys!!!
500k!!!!!! Congratulations gentlemisters!!!
This series is GREAT!!!!
Love the Content Guys❤️, Keep it Up, especially with this build. Can't wait to see the final build with the Red JZA80.
I had the same problem with my 2004 BA Falcon Wagon which kept throwing up fifty or more gearbox codes and eventually wouldn't shift out of 'Limp-home' mode. Even after a gearbox overhaul ($600+ AUD), it started doing it again after a week. After seeing the massive amount of continuing codes, the shop found the ECU/computer module itself was heavily glitched, to the point it had to be replaced. After having a new one programmed for the wagon, it fixed the issue. The garage was pretty decent: they took the price of the gearbox overhaul off the computer price, reducing it by half, so it became affordable. If your car starts throwing multiple and random codes, get the computer checked! A check might cost you $50, but it might save you thousands trying to chase things down...
Congrats on 500k guys!
Can you put a boost a pump or boost referenced fuel pressure regulator on it so adjust the air fuel ratio on overboost?
Congratulations on 500k!
Does the HKS FCD do anything for a non turbo? 🤔
Nice job getting to the bottom of all the nagging little issues. Turn14 is a very cool place it seems btw
Hey, what's with that gray evo at the back??
Huh, noticed there was no music when PT was working on the restrictor. I actually liked just hearing the shop noises.
I ran my CT12's up to 20+psi on my JZZ30 non turbo for well over 6 years without issue. But i've often read about the CT20s needing a restrictor ring to limit boost.
I always forget there's a Turn 14 in Arlington. I live in Dallas, right next to Arlington. I wonder if we could go get a tour? 🧐
That middle warning light is to tell you that a warning light is on. Either seatbelt, door, handbrake, engine, whatever. Any of these warnings will cause the center warning light to be lit, so you take notice and look around. Look to the left or right of the dash, if any of those red or orange lights are on the center light will be lit. It was not the active spoiler (facepalm)
Congrats on 500 🙌🏼 do you still have the active spoiler? Would be Interested in buying it of you 🙏🏼
Sorry man, neither of our Supras came with the active spoiler.
@@speedacademydave dang… will you still be keeping the the motor and button for the active spoiler. I’m trying to install that feature to my Lina 😍 that’s my Supras name 😬
Not sure if you figured out the caution/ exclamation mark in dash light. Though it goes on with the operations of the emergency/parking brake; I had run down this route myself lol. Assuming while moving the car in shop you released the parking brake.
Awesome!
That wheel alignment, tho...
I like you guys not over build this supra👍
At the end of the video i was screaming did want to see this beast on the dyno!!
My 3000gt ecu also had lots of problems with blown caps!
Of course it's believable. Had similar odd issues on my LS400. Good news!
BTW that Supra/LS400 pump flows more than that AEM
What if the boost issue was fixed by the ecu being fixed? Maybe the waste gate was not opening enough because the ecu was not telling it to open soon enough
I think I’d have tried it with a fully functioning ECU before putting in the restriction. It might not have fixed it, but I’ll wonder going forward.
They can always pull it out to see. As can the new owner when that happens.
No chance, this has been covered a million times online. 3-inch downpipe always overboosts. Leaky capacitors or not.
@@speedacademy I suppose now it might be too late because you guys are selling it and technically fixed the issue with the restrictor plate, but I did read that overboost on the JDM 2JZ-GTE could be because of undersized waste gate ports and the USDM 2JZ-GTE with 3 inch downpipe might not suffer from this, so the sizing of the waste gate ports might be a common issue for those JDM engines
@@Aston6Speed the wastegates are indeed different between JDM and USDM. 20mm vs 30mm but the overboosting issues is also related to the bigger downpipe that was installed. I still don't know why these guys installed JDM turbos which in the Supra community, everyone knows they are weaker than their USDM counterpart. USDM are steel while the JDM are ceramic.
15:57 Pete with the sigh when he said "I set it to about 9 *sigh*" hahahaha
Excellent informative video. Thank you guys for sharing.
Wow this is amazing, a Car where is fixed, well done.
Would a removable restrictor in the exhaust tip not do the same thing as the one you made? Would be easier to access instead of going under the car and unbolting the exhaust back section.
Great work guys, love your channel.
Yes but then it would sound like garbage and no one wants that.
Awesome update.
Triangle light is for handbrake engaged or open door
ahh yes! My fuel pump died before I even got my supra lol. I actually put the exact same fuel pump in mine :) Mine didn't plug straight in though. I had to cut and join the wires.
Great work guys!
That drive by at the end just tease of some SA special surprises sauce
the banjo clamp on the fuel tank lid is there as a redundancy to stop the plastic thread from undoing caused from vibration over engineered by japanese engineers lol cheers from down under
My car had the same hose clamp on the fuel pump lid!! I think it’s a thing in Japan when they change the pumps over. No idea why
Congrats on 500k
I love watching your videos. You guys are always very descriptive and detailed with your r&r’s. I always learn something new.
Keep up the amazing work guys!
Half a million subs! YAY!
my supra had the same band clamp around the fuel pump top hat. i assumed it ment someone had it appart before, maybe its orignial
If the wastegate isn’t working, the “right” way is to introduce the WG in the path of more exhaust flow correct? Or, moving to a larger WG.
Additionally, you BOV could also correct pressures on the compression side.
This car gave you guys a fight till the end . But the final product will be amazing I'm sure 👍
When your door is open the triangle comes on. It’s like a door open light.
watching from Brazil
I think Apexi makes the Fuel cut defender so maybe HKS had to make their’s the fuel cut defencer?
That triangle is just for everything, you have to unlock and close the door 😂
grats on 500k!
Hey 500k! Been a while, never quite understood why it as taken so long (and I know you think the same), but congratulations
I remember when i first got my Supra, i would get the triangle ! Indicator.... Then i closed the door 😂
kind of same story here, just with the handbrake instead. a few times i didnt get the handbrake the last 2% released and the triangle light was on.
Loving your builds at the moment, but that 2 inch reducer 😳🤨
EVO teasing us in the back
13:43 to 14:35 feels like a minecraft railcar ride
I feel like at this rate you guys should definitely look into getting a PDF of the owners manual for it and also a Toyota service manual too.
Funny, we have one and have been using the manual.
Love the Canadian accent. You guys rule!!
Sounds like a northern Ontario accent to me. Im Canadian and don’t have the same accent.
Amazing build
well, yeah. those caps are usually on power lines to filter out noises from their power lines that could mess up the control units. this is one of many reason why modern computers started to use solid caps as much as possible. they're more reliable and more heat tolerant. BUT, you can't direct swap wet electrolytics with solid ones. only swap when you know the circuit would behave as intended.
Is the parking brake causing the triangle light..? I don't own a Supra so idk
door(s) open, or handbrake on can trigger the triangle light.
Crushing. Love it.
The warning triangle light turns on in my mk3 Supra when the handbrake is engaged. Even one click, it will detect it and put up the triangle.
The handbrakes are mechanically connected drums in the inner hub of the rear rotors.
Might be a faulty sensor at either end, or the cable engaging the parking brake somehow.
My two cents.
i can see a bit of the OEM+ theme is going with the wheels
Sometimes a warning light needs to see it fail the test twice to trigger the light. And needs to see it pass the test twice to clear it.
Good job
Small things are always the most important in every project XD