You don't want to be using water for this. For midgame, use polluted water as the primary coolant. The aquatuner cools the liquid by 14 degrees regardless of what fluid it is. Polluted water has a significantly higher specific heat capacity compared to normal water, which would increase this system's cooling efficiency. On top of that, encase your turbine in insulated tiles, it's bleeding heat into its surroundings. While it's being countered by the radiant pipes nearby, with the lack of redundancy, a burst pipe or malfunction could cause a problem. To add redundancy, a liquid pipe thermo sensor connected to a shutoff to bypass the aquatuner should the liquid get too cold would be simple to do. Just set it to detect 14 degree water and it would prevent the packets from any chance of freezing
I know Im asking randomly but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
Thank you for a straightforward cooler. Tired of these guides that go into "it's easy" *shows automation setup that looks like a computer wrapped in pipe spaghetti*. This one is just straightforward and simple.
This is the first cooling solution that I consider actually practicable for a regular game. All the other solutions I have seen so far made me give up after seeing their complexity (try building that stuff in non-sandbox mode). There truly is beauty in simplicity.
I have multiple degrees, and I still struggle in this game (chemistry and biology...at a graduate level). Things just don’t turn out the way I expect them to be...but that’s why I’m addicted maybe and have been for 3 years now.
Quick Recommendation: Add a Liquid Tank to your cooling loop. Liquid Tanks average the temperature of their contents, so you'll avoid the weird 1.5-2.5 degree differences in packets and this will help reduce the risk of a random packet freezing and breaking your system.
I had a moment of "but does it produce as much power as it uses" and then I realized that isn't its point. It's not a generator, it's a cooling loop. The power it produces simply reduces the energy cost of running the cooling and acts as the place the heat energy gets dumped.
If you tune up the steam generator and keep the steam at the optimal temperature, the system will actually produce MORE power than it uses. Takes a lot of power over many many cycles to achieve (mine took over 100 cycles to optimize), but totally worth it to delete so much heat.
@@jeremyb8112 From my understanding, you can only make power positive base cooling setup with space age materials (i.e. super coolant). Keeping the steam at optimal temperature would not really help make power positive setup, all it would mean is that your steam turbine will have lower duty cycle than the aquatuner, and when you average out the aquatuner and steam turbine duty cycle over long periods of time, the optimal power produced by a steam turbine running infrequently aren't going to be enough to compensate for the aquatuner that is running constantly. The steam room of an aquatuner/steam turbine setup is really just a buffer, so its temperature shouldn't really affect how much power it produces. Either that, or you need to be running a really hot base where the average temperature of the loop's working fluid is hotter than 130C before using an aquatuner to raise the temperature, which won't be the case for base cooling. It is a possible setup if you use the same steam room to harvest heat from magma or really hot furnaces; but that's really just the excess heat from magma offsetting the base cooling, and not really a power positive base cooling.
"And that is my ultimate MID game cooling solution" on cycle 500. Meanwhile me: struggling to cool off my base at cycle 120 and already consider this midgame.
Run water in normal granite pipes through floor tiles, cool it in you water tank using temp shift plates made of ice. This will get you some time until tou rush few exosuits and get plastic to build steam turbine.
I see you have two layers of insulated tiles around it to try and keep the heat in. You could use airflow tiles on the inside layers where there is oil. Airflow tiles are hydrophobia so the don't actually make contact with the oil. This way you are loosing even less heat to the surroundings. I don't think if it would make a noticeable amount of difference, but I saw what you did and it reminded me of that game mechanic. So I thought I would share.
The heat is going into the insulation because of the Temp shift plates, since they move heat in the 8 tiles around it.. Cutting one off each side will still provide the same amount of reach for the chamber itself, but without dumping the heat into the wall.
At my university one of my computer science professors always reminded us that our programs should not be 'clever'. 'clever' was always bad. He emphasized that our programs should be 'elegant' where possible. You called your old design clever, and it instantly reminded me of this. Your new design is very elegant. :)
@@SkyeStorme too bad I probably will have to create a new world again lol, I explored most of the map and only have vents no volcanoes for renewable resources
I believe I saw a Francis video that showed a simple bypass system. Basically you attach a thermo-sensor right before the thermo aquatuner to make sure your water won't freeze it, then this sensor shuts it off if it's too cold. You then add a water bridge just past the entrance into the aqua tuner to pump it to the other side of it and let the liquid through. Combine that to a liquid reservoir loop and you can essentially keep the water flowing in circles for many cycles before it needs cooled again with no power usage. (Since liquid has vastly more heat capacity than gas) I did that super early game on the desert map to cool my food location.
You immediately put a stop to my trying your pulsed aquatuner setup, though it still looks really cool. A liquid pipe thermosensor on the intake for the aquatuner, paired with a filter gate to prevent rapidly switching the aquatuner on/off, and then a bypass bridge for when the aquatuner is off, would keep your cooling loop flowing forever, and potentially look nice and neat. I just built one of these aquatuner/turbine coolers using gold/gold amalgam/ceramic for everything possible. Working on a larger version using 2 turbines and 3 aquatuners now.
I’m not gonna lie, I didn’t hear half this video cuz I was staring at your auto hatch killer. Mines more simple but yours (how I assume yours works) is much more efficient haha. Love it!
Oh my god, thank you for this! As a relative newbie, looking at various setup that try to maximize cooling and energy efficiency is totally overwhelming. This is something I can actually understand, maybe now I’ll finally be able to survive past cycle 200 on an asteroid other than Rime 😂
"This just works". This got that one Bethesda song by Chalkeaters resurface in my brain. I won't be able to get it out for the duration of the video) X)
As simple and elegant as this system is, I've a penchant for self-sustaining/self-contained systems. Modularity is king. You've given me food for thought - time to cook up....that...but that can independently operate the Aqua Tuner and Pumps with little to no excess power.
3 Automation's you want: - Check input temp to prevent freezing. (as you said) -Turn off Tuner if it gets too hot. -Only turn on the steam generator above X temp. The gamepedia page for the steam generator has the temps for max power output. You can probably remove the oil and have about 5kg of water inside and get more power out. It will raise the temp of the steam. Just make sure there isn't any gas other than steam inside.
The oil is absolutely critical to making it so you don't have to check the environment surrounding temp and can run the AT at 100% up time - the trouble with Gold Amalgam AT's is that they have awful thermal conductivity. The oil solves the problem with it's insane conductivity. With the oil the heat out of the AT can be leeched fast enough at the steam temperature that it doesn't exceed the overheat temp - without it the system will reach the same steady state temperature of steam (as the system with and without oil have the exact same DTU consideration, so they have the same thermal energy) but the AT is hotter than it's overheat at that equilibrium. IE you don't pile as many DTU's up in the AT before reaching the equilibrium point where heat from the AT working equals heat transfer to the steam (which is the determining factor for the heat of the AT). Once you have steel you can dispense with the oil.
@@riotintheair Ya the massive up time is nice, but pointless. As is he could probably run that system at 10-20% up time. He has already taken his lake to damn near freezing. If he made it a closed loop he would also save power on not running a pump 24/7. Change the critter killer to a door system to elevate the water level to cope with not having the water dripping.
@@mithral07 you can still turn it off and certainly should when the loop is too cold. But building it this way gives him a no-maintanence cooling loop into the early late game that's scalable to the full potential of an AT using water cooling loops. To me one of the major points is to retire risk so I can spend time thinking about the next problem. Getting to the point you can ignore a system and it scales automatically to your needs (at least for a good long time) let's you work on getting a new system to that level. Then you grind it out, one system at a time. If Skye builds this he won't need another heat sync until he hits the space age, which coincidentally is the next time you can really make massive improvements to it.
For more flexibility in my cooling system (and because I might want to cool things down more aggressively in certain situations), I'd want to add an additional Thermo Aquatuner for every 14 degrees Celsius of water that I'd want to cool down, along with enough automation (such as thermal sensors in each water container) to ensure that each Thermo Aquatuner is only used when it's needed. (For example, I might want up to 7 Thermo Aquatuners around to be able to cool Water that's on the brink of boiling into steam down to near freezing temperatures in case I want to, say, use that supercooled water to keep large amounts of hot machinery from turning their surroundings into an oven.)
Hey skyee, once you've discovered the best ways. You should make one video. When I first started I watched all your guide. It helped me more than anyone else's.
I've made a bigger model of this using 3 aquatuners and 2 Steam engines, and could not figure out why my aquatuners wouldn't drop in temperature, and the steam would be at a much lower temperature than my oil/aquatuners. And i realized i did something wrong that wasn't really discussed in this video : My liquid vent was 2 squares above the oil reservoir line. Thus the water output from my steam engines, being in small volumes, vaporized or lost much of its cooling effect directly to the steam instead of the oil. So take care to put that liquid vent below the oil line, or it won't cool much.
a little automation will get loads more out of your turbine, for 5 ports you wanna keep it at about 200, i like to use a sr latch (memory toggle) set at above 210 reset at below 190 also you dont need the crude oil, people tend to use crude oil when they dont have access to plastic so cant build a steam turbine
I think a Better way would be to Use a Cool box, You Essentially just make a Box where you dump the Cooling of the Aquatuner, And then run a Continuous loop around the Base filled with water. Which will draw it's cooling from the Box instead of the Aquatuner directly, This way You'll save more power initially and in Long Running Bases It will save you quite a but of power as You only have to pump water into the loop only once.
Rime is super cold..... unless you have everything condensed in one area, or a super hot water supply, for making mush bars or lice bars, heat shouldn't be an issue, and once it normally is you have this method to cool down
4 year old moment but i gotta ask lol. my radiant liquid pipe that's going into my thermo aquatuner keeps breaking... i swapped it out with steel because i thought it was overheating but its still breaking, if anyone has a solution or ideas let me know! thanks! great video btw very helpful!
ahh, that makes since. Thanks you for the helpful reply! i will probably just run it in a chill biome for the temporary then when i get better material ill make a permanent solution!
Unless you produce crazy amount of heat you gona eventualy overcool your base and be realy caerfull with some crops but thats cool idea to use your main liquid reservoir as equilizer
aqua tuner does not use fulll power if you have the outlet backed up. Meaning either 10kg/s or with flow restricted (valve or plants like berrries for example). Then in only runs every time 10 kg packet is removed from outlet. However, if you run with restricted inlet, then your comment applies. Gold overheats at 125C not 175 so there is something weird that goes on with the oil. Someone else had the same design but with a tiny amount of oil on the floor and it did the same thing
aqua tuners overheat at 125C however making it out of gold gives it a +50C modifier (125+50=175). you can confirm this ingame just go to the aqua tuner and hover over making it from gold and it tells you about the +50C. the thermo regulator (for gases) is 75C so that made with gold would be 125C
Thanks Skye, I really like this improvement. Space is at a premium in my base, so a smaller system is definitely preferable. One question about the steam turbine / aquatuner interaction...what happens when you have an inconsistent supply of water going into this system, eg, the water gets too cold and you need to turn the aquatuner off for a while? Does that affect the efficiency of the system?
The one thing to be aware of is if you're doing less than 10kg packets of water you still pay the full power cost - so you achieve less cooling per Watt of power. If you have intermittent packet sizes you can save power if you stack all the packets with some sort of packet stacker. The great thing about this setup though is it should be unbreakable as long as you don't put super-coolant through it (but full blast super-coolant cooling is beyond the specs of a single steam turbine's capacity).
A couple issues to this setup, not really about the cooler design itself but rather how it's hooked up to the base: First, currently you're dumping water with a vent, which means that you're actually going to have to pump the water back into the system again. That's an extra 240W of power draw that you can do without. Second, is that you're chilling a very large water reservoir which means that your cooling system will always be running constantly drawing 1200W whether or not the base is producing heat, because that huge reservoir can absorbs a lot of cooling. Ideally, especially in early game where you're not producing much power and heat, you'd want a base cooling to run only as much as the base as the heat you're and no more. Both of these issues can be solved by running your cooling loop as a closed infinite system instead of dumping and pumping water to the environment. You'll use less power and not have to expand the power setup too early. A closed loop system does mean that there's less water in the loop, and less water in the loop does mean that the water in the loop will cool and and heat up faster. You can add a water tank to the loop to even out the fluctuations, but getting automation/sensor so you can maintain constant temperature throughout the loop is going to become a bit more urgent.
Its a nice build. I'm toying with the idea of just wating till I've made some steel before I mess with the aqua tuner but toying with something like this could be a good idea if i get stuck. You might find polluted water is easier to use than water for heat exchange. Water is all good, but polluted water just has a freaze point of -20. And boils at 119. More safety room.
I think it can be more efficient. If I remember correctly, 1 turbine can take the heat energy from 1 and a half aquatuners, so 3 aquatuners and 2 turbines should be more efficient.
That's just 'more' .. not 'more efficient' .. there no efficiency gain to scaling it up .. and remember it is a power consumer .. not a prower producer so you'd just be wasting power unless ofc you need the extra cooling for your base :)
@@nicknevco215 Rime actually seems easier to me, since heating can be done by being clever with your machines and the cooling is beyond easy since Rime sucks up all of the heat with it's ambient cooling. It makes machines like this obsolete, and it makes anything that produces massive heat incredibly easy to regulate
very funny how easy it is to heat up as well, once you accidently uncover a couple steam geysers, cool slush geysers, unluckily for me, a iron geyser....
I've been stuck at "early" game for ages. Always the heat getting to me. At least this seems like a doable, not overly complicated thing to do. I've seen countless of builds with diagrams, schematics, math and what not, when you see things like that it just makes the game seem impossible for mere mortals.
What's the best way to loop the liquid around for multiple passes? For example I have the metal refinery and it releases like 140 degree temp (using petroleum coolant). One round through an aquatuner doesn't cut it, so I need to have it run through a few times. I tried using the thermal pipe sensor and a shutoff valve, but I run into issues where it alternates hot and cold water bubbles, or it just gets blocked and stuck in the shutoff valve. Is it easier to just use 2 or 3 aquatuners with temp sensor shut off? But even 3 aquatuners would only bring it down to like 100 degrees
Your steamturbin works wirh 40 % i think its overheated oe not enough heated. try one cooler feeding two gas steamturbines, u fill a bigger room with only a bit of water/oil and that should work . and the backplates werent be used i will implement them in my build fhis will make it even more efficient
I find this genius!! except that when I copied it, the water did not turn into steam and the aquatuner was at a temperature of 45°C. could it be because I have completely submerged it in crude oil?
Its funny because I made my own, well-balanced small mod that allows you to convert resources into other similar resources and other states of matter (solid, liquid, gas). Meaning I can suck in oxygen, pump it through what I called a molecule manipulator, and output it as oxylite, which naturally emits cold oxygen, then the co2 made by the molecule manipulator is piped out and input into a room with lots of co2 recyclers, making it oxygen and outputting lots of heat, to be reused to cool down the whole base, the molecule manipulator and the co2 recyclers. I have a few other mods in that allow me to transfer solids around my base automatically and also to automatically place solids and drill them so I also have infinite oxygen. Will not release the mod though... Working more on it.
@@Kotsknots I posted this comment 4 months ago... I don't even play the game anymore and some people might like the game to be a bit easier. And regardless you don't need to be triggered about it, just move on with your day...
What happens when you cool something other than clean water? Poluted water has a better thermal capacity than clean water and im sure that has an effect on the amount of heat pulled into the aquatuner? I personally prefer to use automation around these things but i think that may have more to do with the fact that i just enjoy figuring it out.
Loving the series Skye, I missed the Live stream though so think I missed something :( Would have liked to see you build it lol. Will the main body of water you have in your base rise too much or do you have a plan so it doesn’t?
@@SkyeStorme Thank you! I love seeing how you make designs and base layouts in the series. It makes it easier for me because I copy the setup and my base is set. So I really mean it when I say thank you for posting 😄😄
its not producing a power gain due to the aqua tuner using 1200w (and 240w for the liquid pump) while the steam gen is making 350w, this system is for deleting heat/a cooling loop. including what the steam gen is producing this system is still using over 1000w
Reducing liquid flow is making cooling loop less power efficient (cooling 5kg of water cost same ammount of enegy as cooling 10 kg) Polluted water is a bit better and cheaper as coolant.
Would not have bought this game if I saw this video beforehand. Now I’m already 40 hours and just starting to realize I don’t have a degree in engineering 🤯
Instructions unclear, cooling system worked too well and froze all the pipes then broke. [Jokes aside this setup is super effective and I thank you for sharing it!]
so mine overheated, I'm waiting for the system to cool down so I don't let all the steam out with tempshift plates and a wheezewart XD definitely going to replace it with steel instead of gold
Any chance you or someone could show how to splice the cooled water off into all the sections of the base and make it return back to the cooling system? Its so confusing trying to splice and run all those pipes properly to hit every section of a base.
Dont know if you are still reading comments but need some help here. One whats the deal with the drain pipe on top of that sensor that drops the water down. and another is I cant seem to grasp where needs o be insulated pipes and conductive pipes. Do you have a save of something like this so I can look my self what pipes are what etc? I tried to do something similar to this to try to cool down a pool of water and 150 cycles later it only dropped 1-2 degrees at most. Thanks.
Skye, my aquatuner doesn't raise the temperature above 125C and I am sending packets of 10kg water constantly. As soon as it gets above 125C it works for a second or so and the temp drops below 125C almost instantly, it seems like the aquatuner is not getting hot enough.
thx ive been looking for something like this everyone else has some super complex systems and its difficult to model what i need from them and feel good about myself, plus im limited on power unless i want dupes ears popping from co2 ive been trying to work out a simple system to do cool steam cooling for the first time, in a more early game base around cycle 100
@@nekonesto3125 the steam turbine pumps out water u use that water in radiant pipes to cool the turbines when it dumps back into the hot chamber it evaporates to steam based on the temp since this ive been using other liquids based on brothgars video with lumber now i use ethanol for steam this way i can get around using a turbine and still get cooling although its definitely a balance for what is possible and what materials u have
This will end up breaking your pipes in a real game since it has no automation for the liquid in the pipes. If you are running fresh water, it will work but has that much water to have a continuous loop and dump it somewhere else. I guess it can still work. You would just have to keep an eye on it.
He's probably watched a couple videos of some other people playing at some point or another, if you do that it's almost impossible not to see these kinds of cooling systems because everybody uses them. The turbine/aquatuner combo has been the standard cooling system for most of the long term playerbase for several months now.
Could you deliberately freeze your pipes and then show how to fix them as a "Tip Video"? (just in case your making a list of Tip Video Suggestions) love ya'
A part of me wonders if I can run a tepidizer for steam on Rime and get something similar but instead of cooling just try to keep the tepidizer low enough to boil water but not overheat the turbine?
can't you place the cooler after the resouvoir and in the begining of the loop so you have alway a consisent flow even if you use te water for showers and other stuff, and you can heat the resouvoir if is get to cold
Awesome series! A question though, is this system design still works? Tried doing it, always overheats Realized Aquatuner now overheats at 125C... was wondering why u have at 140 and still no damage.
You must change the building material of the aquatuner to Gold Amalgam, the default material would be Copper Ore, but that has 125c overheat limit, the Gold Amalgam goes up to 175c
I built this setup and my aquatuner eventually overheats and incurs damage. It's made out of gold. I think I might have a little too much crude oil in the bottom. That's the only thing I can see different from the system in the video. I'm starting to think the crude:water ratio in the "cooling tank" is pretty important. Any thoughts?
it depress me how simple and effective it is, specially how weak weeze worts are against these. I hope the game puts you more into improvising stuff instead of using the standard things, I mean you did make an setup your own, but as you said, just these 2 and nothing else needed.
doesnt it run more efficiant if you use higher steam temp? mid tear you should be able to use a steel aquatuner right? higher steam temp make (for example 160) = more power out of your generator (you do need a temp sensor for this one set to above 160 degrees)
@@SkyeStorme You said it yourself: aquatuner consumes same amount of energy regardless of the amount of water pumped through. So you turn down the valve to regulate the flow, but aquatuner will still consume same energy
@@IcyBalls-v3p Ah! Yes if you use the valve to restrict the flow then yes .. if you want to regulate the temp in your base then it's more efficient to send fewer packets through the aquatuner
It's not exactly in balance. Now, if you were using that to try to power your base, then you'd have a problem. But, since that system only has one purpose, you're effectively recovering energy to help cool the water, which is still a legitimate goal to have. 367W - 1200W = -833W
don't forget the 240W for the pump from his water storage at the start of the loop. its a good system if you need that much constant cooling. i think this set up and just a temp sensor for base temp to turn the loop on and off would be a better solution overall (and a bypass for liquid under 15C so you don't get pipe freeze). that way as your heat scales it automatically scales with your needs overall it would save the constant 1073W draw, sure the steam gen would produce less but its not for power gen system anyway. That's the way i'm going to use it, not sure if it will work exactly as i intend but hey worth a go ;) EDIT seconds later may close the loop and use polluted water, a little less thermo connectivity but freezes @-20C so better for pipes and late game if i need the temp sub zero
Hey do you have any tips on how to get duplicants to que buildings that are off because of the motion sensors? They wont use anything in my base because its all off. I dont know if its a mod messing up their job ques or what hope u can help
The problem with this system is that the water has to constantly be pumped through it so the pipes will freeze and it is inevitable becuase the water enters at x degrees cools by 14 and goes tmrough the base so unless it heats up by 14 in the base it will slowly go down and down past 0 degrees
I just realised it can be fixed by checking the temperature of the water entering the system and if it’s below 14 just piping around the base again or doing whatever else you like
It will take AGES for that to happen because he's dumping the water in the main water tank and pulling new water into the loop. By that time you will be further along in materials and research and have enough of an understanding of how the thing truly works to be able to begin to improve it with things like an automated shut off.
Psst... Skye... Steam is the gaseous form of water... Also, you should probably run three Aqua-tuners. I think the general ratio is that three aqua-tuners can run one steam turbine. Though I'm not sure off the top of my head what would change in your water-oil equilibrium.
@@Southpaw17 You're probably right, but in general if you use that setup for this and mess around with the flow rate you should be able to make the power generation to consumption ratio of the whole thing more efficient. Though, like I said it's hard to just do it all right out of my head.
The point is stable temperature control, not energy production. Assuming you want your base to remain around 60-70F then you'll only ever want or need 1 aquatuner, and if you use a reservoir instead of a giant pool and a nice bypass system, the aquatuner probably won't even run 90% of the time.
Just the way the game handles liquids really. Oil in first, then water will sit on top. even if the oil is only 200kg when the water goes in, it will occupy the next tile up since no 2 liquids or gasses can occupy the same tile.
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If you pumped Ethanol through the this you could theoretically cool a room to around -112 C.
You don't want to be using water for this. For midgame, use polluted water as the primary coolant. The aquatuner cools the liquid by 14 degrees regardless of what fluid it is. Polluted water has a significantly higher specific heat capacity compared to normal water, which would increase this system's cooling efficiency.
On top of that, encase your turbine in insulated tiles, it's bleeding heat into its surroundings. While it's being countered by the radiant pipes nearby, with the lack of redundancy, a burst pipe or malfunction could cause a problem.
To add redundancy, a liquid pipe thermo sensor connected to a shutoff to bypass the aquatuner should the liquid get too cold would be simple to do. Just set it to detect 14 degree water and it would prevent the packets from any chance of freezing
@@ChickenTheWicked i liked the ehtanol idea i will try to make this :)
Why don’t people just build their power plants in ice biomes?
I know Im asking randomly but does any of you know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
Thank you for a straightforward cooler. Tired of these guides that go into "it's easy" *shows automation setup that looks like a computer wrapped in pipe spaghetti*. This one is just straightforward and simple.
This is the first cooling solution that I consider actually practicable for a regular game. All the other solutions I have seen so far made me give up after seeing their complexity (try building that stuff in non-sandbox mode).
There truly is beauty in simplicity.
EXACTLY! :)
This game is harder than studying for my degree
I've put off studying for my degree sometimes to finish this game......finally made it to space after 900 cycles lol.
no
I have multiple degrees, and I still struggle in this game (chemistry and biology...at a graduate level). Things just don’t turn out the way I expect them to be...but that’s why I’m addicted maybe and have been for 3 years now.
Y e s
Right? Why yhe hell am I using it to take breaks from essays??
Quick Recommendation: Add a Liquid Tank to your cooling loop. Liquid Tanks average the temperature of their contents, so you'll avoid the weird 1.5-2.5 degree differences in packets and this will help reduce the risk of a random packet freezing and breaking your system.
I had a moment of "but does it produce as much power as it uses" and then I realized that isn't its point. It's not a generator, it's a cooling loop. The power it produces simply reduces the energy cost of running the cooling and acts as the place the heat energy gets dumped.
Yep the steam generator deletes about 90% heat (10% of that heating it self up so it needs a small cooling loop to prevent heat build up)
If you tune up the steam generator and keep the steam at the optimal temperature, the system will actually produce MORE power than it uses. Takes a lot of power over many many cycles to achieve (mine took over 100 cycles to optimize), but totally worth it to delete so much heat.
@@jeremyb8112 From my understanding, you can only make power positive base cooling setup with space age materials (i.e. super coolant).
Keeping the steam at optimal temperature would not really help make power positive setup, all it would mean is that your steam turbine will have lower duty cycle than the aquatuner, and when you average out the aquatuner and steam turbine duty cycle over long periods of time, the optimal power produced by a steam turbine running infrequently aren't going to be enough to compensate for the aquatuner that is running constantly.
The steam room of an aquatuner/steam turbine setup is really just a buffer, so its temperature shouldn't really affect how much power it produces.
Either that, or you need to be running a really hot base where the average temperature of the loop's working fluid is hotter than 130C before using an aquatuner to raise the temperature, which won't be the case for base cooling. It is a possible setup if you use the same steam room to harvest heat from magma or really hot furnaces; but that's really just the excess heat from magma offsetting the base cooling, and not really a power positive base cooling.
"And that is my ultimate MID game cooling solution" on cycle 500. Meanwhile me: struggling to cool off my base at cycle 120 and already consider this midgame.
Run water in normal granite pipes through floor tiles, cool it in you water tank using temp shift plates made of ice. This will get you some time until tou rush few exosuits and get plastic to build steam turbine.
@@hailstorm7868 Yeah i didn't know electrolyzer was hot. On cycle 300 now running on petroleum and steam turbine
Build your power plants in frozen biomes.
I’ve struggled getting gold amalgam aquatuners to run steam turbines, I gave up and made an early dash for steel. Very impressed, well played!
I see you have two layers of insulated tiles around it to try and keep the heat in. You could use airflow tiles on the inside layers where there is oil. Airflow tiles are hydrophobia so the don't actually make contact with the oil. This way you are loosing even less heat to the surroundings. I don't think if it would make a noticeable amount of difference, but I saw what you did and it reminded me of that game mechanic. So I thought I would share.
The steam will still make contact with the outside though. However this will increase the oils contact with the steam so it is a curious thing to try!
The heat is going into the insulation because of the Temp shift plates, since they move heat in the 8 tiles around it.. Cutting one off each side will still provide the same amount of reach for the chamber itself, but without dumping the heat into the wall.
At my university one of my computer science professors always reminded us that our programs should not be 'clever'. 'clever' was always bad. He emphasized that our programs should be 'elegant' where possible.
You called your old design clever, and it instantly reminded me of this. Your new design is very elegant. :)
FYI I originally was going to quit this game because of how complicated it was, your videos have made this game fun for me to try multiple worlds.
Reading this made me very happy :)
@@SkyeStorme too bad I probably will have to create a new world again lol, I explored most of the map and only have vents no volcanoes for renewable resources
I believe I saw a Francis video that showed a simple bypass system. Basically you attach a thermo-sensor right before the thermo aquatuner to make sure your water won't freeze it, then this sensor shuts it off if it's too cold. You then add a water bridge just past the entrance into the aqua tuner to pump it to the other side of it and let the liquid through. Combine that to a liquid reservoir loop and you can essentially keep the water flowing in circles for many cycles before it needs cooled again with no power usage. (Since liquid has vastly more heat capacity than gas) I did that super early game on the desert map to cool my food location.
This!
This still works, in case anyone was wondering.
You immediately put a stop to my trying your pulsed aquatuner setup, though it still looks really cool.
A liquid pipe thermosensor on the intake for the aquatuner, paired with a filter gate to prevent rapidly switching the aquatuner on/off, and then a bypass bridge for when the aquatuner is off, would keep your cooling loop flowing forever, and potentially look nice and neat.
I just built one of these aquatuner/turbine coolers using gold/gold amalgam/ceramic for everything possible. Working on a larger version using 2 turbines and 3 aquatuners now.
That's why I rushed this video out! Glad I didn't waste your time :)
yeah like Tony's design :P
@@KerbalSpacey Yeah, I was one of the people who pointed out Tony's bypass failure, his no-steel vid helped me a lot figuring these setups out
You should not filter termosensor signal, because it protects AT from cold water packets.
not working bypasses and damaging aquatuners had me in a pickle. this is working way better and easier thanks mate!
I’m not gonna lie, I didn’t hear half this video cuz I was staring at your auto hatch killer. Mines more simple but yours (how I assume yours works) is much more efficient haha. Love it!
Oh my god, thank you for this! As a relative newbie, looking at various setup that try to maximize cooling and energy efficiency is totally overwhelming. This is something I can actually understand, maybe now I’ll finally be able to survive past cycle 200 on an asteroid other than Rime 😂
You brought me to ONI, this series is awesome
Finally my base can be as cool as me 😎
As cool as beans* 😂😂😂😂
"This just works".
This got that one Bethesda song by Chalkeaters resurface in my brain. I won't be able to get it out for the duration of the video) X)
16x the detail
have to try this in my base before everything gets to hot, thank you :)
As simple and elegant as this system is, I've a penchant for self-sustaining/self-contained systems. Modularity is king. You've given me food for thought - time to cook up....that...but that can independently operate the Aqua Tuner and Pumps with little to no excess power.
Who's an excited boy then? Beautifully simplistic Skye.. nice one.
cheers for the vid mate.
3 Automation's you want:
- Check input temp to prevent freezing. (as you said)
-Turn off Tuner if it gets too hot.
-Only turn on the steam generator above X temp. The gamepedia page for the steam generator has the temps for max power output.
You can probably remove the oil and have about 5kg of water inside and get more power out. It will raise the temp of the steam. Just make sure there isn't any gas other than steam inside.
The oil is absolutely critical to making it so you don't have to check the environment surrounding temp and can run the AT at 100% up time - the trouble with Gold Amalgam AT's is that they have awful thermal conductivity. The oil solves the problem with it's insane conductivity. With the oil the heat out of the AT can be leeched fast enough at the steam temperature that it doesn't exceed the overheat temp - without it the system will reach the same steady state temperature of steam (as the system with and without oil have the exact same DTU consideration, so they have the same thermal energy) but the AT is hotter than it's overheat at that equilibrium. IE you don't pile as many DTU's up in the AT before reaching the equilibrium point where heat from the AT working equals heat transfer to the steam (which is the determining factor for the heat of the AT).
Once you have steel you can dispense with the oil.
@@riotintheair Ya the massive up time is nice, but pointless. As is he could probably run that system at 10-20% up time. He has already taken his lake to damn near freezing. If he made it a closed loop he would also save power on not running a pump 24/7. Change the critter killer to a door system to elevate the water level to cope with not having the water dripping.
@@mithral07 you can still turn it off and certainly should when the loop is too cold. But building it this way gives him a no-maintanence cooling loop into the early late game that's scalable to the full potential of an AT using water cooling loops. To me one of the major points is to retire risk so I can spend time thinking about the next problem. Getting to the point you can ignore a system and it scales automatically to your needs (at least for a good long time) let's you work on getting a new system to that level. Then you grind it out, one system at a time. If Skye builds this he won't need another heat sync until he hits the space age, which coincidentally is the next time you can really make massive improvements to it.
looks good. i have restarted my game like 4 times now.learning stuff evertime
How did he get steam in there?
Very similar to mine, works well in my base and maintains equilibrium at about 300 watts from the turbine.
For more flexibility in my cooling system (and because I might want to cool things down more aggressively in certain situations), I'd want to add an additional Thermo Aquatuner for every 14 degrees Celsius of water that I'd want to cool down, along with enough automation (such as thermal sensors in each water container) to ensure that each Thermo Aquatuner is only used when it's needed. (For example, I might want up to 7 Thermo Aquatuners around to be able to cool Water that's on the brink of boiling into steam down to near freezing temperatures in case I want to, say, use that supercooled water to keep large amounts of hot machinery from turning their surroundings into an oven.)
Hey skyee, once you've discovered the best ways. You should make one video. When I first started I watched all your guide. It helped me more than anyone else's.
I've made a bigger model of this using 3 aquatuners and 2 Steam engines, and could not figure out why my aquatuners wouldn't drop in temperature, and the steam would be at a much lower temperature than my oil/aquatuners. And i realized i did something wrong that wasn't really discussed in this video : My liquid vent was 2 squares above the oil reservoir line. Thus the water output from my steam engines, being in small volumes, vaporized or lost much of its cooling effect directly to the steam instead of the oil.
So take care to put that liquid vent below the oil line, or it won't cool much.
a little automation will get loads more out of your turbine, for 5 ports you wanna keep it at about 200, i like to use a sr latch (memory toggle) set at above 210 reset at below 190 also you dont need the crude oil, people tend to use crude oil when they dont have access to plastic so cant build a steam turbine
Thermo sensor before the tuner. If hot enough, go to tuner. If too cold, dump back into reserves.
I think a Better way would be to Use a Cool box, You Essentially just make a Box where you dump the Cooling of the Aquatuner, And then run a Continuous loop around the Base filled with water. Which will draw it's cooling from the Box instead of the Aquatuner directly, This way You'll save more power initially and in Long Running Bases It will save you quite a but of power as You only have to pump water into the loop only once.
When you finish this map, can you do one in Rime, to deal with heat? I think rime is challenging at the start and easier at the end
Rime is super cold..... unless you have everything condensed in one area, or a super hot water supply, for making mush bars or lice bars, heat shouldn't be an issue, and once it normally is you have this method to cool down
4 year old moment but i gotta ask lol. my radiant liquid pipe that's going into my thermo aquatuner keeps breaking... i swapped it out with steel because i thought it was overheating but its still breaking, if anyone has a solution or ideas let me know! thanks! great video btw very helpful!
ahh, that makes since. Thanks you for the helpful reply! i will probably just run it in a chill biome for the temporary then when i get better material ill make a permanent solution!
Skye like your tips episode and you explaining your designs.
Hi i use a similar one! you also need to remove your tempshifts that are touching the insulated tiles the heat is leaking where it touches the tiles.
Unless you produce crazy amount of heat you gona eventualy overcool your base and be realy caerfull with some crops but thats cool idea to use your main liquid reservoir as equilizer
aqua tuner does not use fulll power if you have the outlet backed up. Meaning either 10kg/s or with flow restricted (valve or plants like berrries for example). Then in only runs every time 10 kg packet is removed from outlet. However, if you run with restricted inlet, then your comment applies. Gold overheats at 125C not 175 so there is something weird that goes on with the oil. Someone else had the same design but with a tiny amount of oil on the floor and it did the same thing
aqua tuners overheat at 125C however making it out of gold gives it a +50C modifier (125+50=175).
you can confirm this ingame just go to the aqua tuner and hover over making it from gold and it tells you about the +50C.
the thermo regulator (for gases) is 75C so that made with gold would be 125C
Well done, now pass around some parkas! Its cold in here!
Thanks Skye, I really like this improvement. Space is at a premium in my base, so a smaller system is definitely preferable. One question about the steam turbine / aquatuner interaction...what happens when you have an inconsistent supply of water going into this system, eg, the water gets too cold and you need to turn the aquatuner off for a while? Does that affect the efficiency of the system?
No .. that's one of the perks .. you can turn it on/off or adjust the flow amount however you want with no issues :)
The one thing to be aware of is if you're doing less than 10kg packets of water you still pay the full power cost - so you achieve less cooling per Watt of power. If you have intermittent packet sizes you can save power if you stack all the packets with some sort of packet stacker. The great thing about this setup though is it should be unbreakable as long as you don't put super-coolant through it (but full blast super-coolant cooling is beyond the specs of a single steam turbine's capacity).
A couple issues to this setup, not really about the cooler design itself but rather how it's hooked up to the base:
First, currently you're dumping water with a vent, which means that you're actually going to have to pump the water back into the system again. That's an extra 240W of power draw that you can do without.
Second, is that you're chilling a very large water reservoir which means that your cooling system will always be running constantly drawing 1200W whether or not the base is producing heat, because that huge reservoir can absorbs a lot of cooling. Ideally, especially in early game where you're not producing much power and heat, you'd want a base cooling to run only as much as the base as the heat you're and no more.
Both of these issues can be solved by running your cooling loop as a closed infinite system instead of dumping and pumping water to the environment. You'll use less power and not have to expand the power setup too early.
A closed loop system does mean that there's less water in the loop, and less water in the loop does mean that the water in the loop will cool and and heat up faster. You can add a water tank to the loop to even out the fluctuations, but getting automation/sensor so you can maintain constant temperature throughout the loop is going to become a bit more urgent.
Its a nice build. I'm toying with the idea of just wating till I've made some steel before I mess with the aqua tuner but toying with something like this could be a good idea if i get stuck. You might find polluted water is easier to use than water for heat exchange. Water is all good, but polluted water just has a freaze point of -20. And boils at 119. More safety room.
I think it can be more efficient. If I remember correctly, 1 turbine can take the heat energy from 1 and a half aquatuners, so 3 aquatuners and 2 turbines should be more efficient.
That's just 'more' .. not 'more efficient' .. there no efficiency gain to scaling it up .. and remember it is a power consumer .. not a prower producer so you'd just be wasting power unless ofc you need the extra cooling for your base :)
Try playing rime asteroid
It is very funy how cold it is
works against the games systems though nothing directly made to heat up the world without massive power, even the space heater can't reach far.
@@nicknevco215 Rime actually seems easier to me, since heating can be done by being clever with your machines and the cooling is beyond easy since Rime sucks up all of the heat with it's ambient cooling. It makes machines like this obsolete, and it makes anything that produces massive heat incredibly easy to regulate
very funny how easy it is to heat up as well, once you accidently uncover a couple steam geysers, cool slush geysers, unluckily for me, a iron geyser....
It irks me greatly that it spends more wattage than it produces but im excited to see a frozen lake in the next episode
I've been stuck at "early" game for ages. Always the heat getting to me. At least this seems like a doable, not overly complicated thing to do. I've seen countless of builds with diagrams, schematics, math and what not, when you see things like that it just makes the game seem impossible for mere mortals.
"Mother! I've turned the cooling unit back on!"
What's the best way to loop the liquid around for multiple passes? For example I have the metal refinery and it releases like 140 degree temp (using petroleum coolant). One round through an aquatuner doesn't cut it, so I need to have it run through a few times. I tried using the thermal pipe sensor and a shutoff valve, but I run into issues where it alternates hot and cold water bubbles, or it just gets blocked and stuck in the shutoff valve. Is it easier to just use 2 or 3 aquatuners with temp sensor shut off? But even 3 aquatuners would only bring it down to like 100 degrees
Your steamturbin works wirh 40 % i think its overheated oe not enough heated. try one cooler feeding two gas steamturbines, u fill a bigger room with only a bit of water/oil and that should work . and the backplates werent be used i will implement them in my build fhis will make it even more efficient
Despite the complex piping system and painful hours planning it out, it‘s still simple…
I find this genius!!
except that when I copied it, the water did not turn into steam and the aquatuner was at a temperature of 45°C. could it be because I have completely submerged it in crude oil?
Its funny because I made my own, well-balanced small mod that allows you to convert resources into other similar resources and other states of matter (solid, liquid, gas). Meaning I can suck in oxygen, pump it through what I called a molecule manipulator, and output it as oxylite, which naturally emits cold oxygen, then the co2 made by the molecule manipulator is piped out and input into a room with lots of co2 recyclers, making it oxygen and outputting lots of heat, to be reused to cool down the whole base, the molecule manipulator and the co2 recyclers. I have a few other mods in that allow me to transfer solids around my base automatically and also to automatically place solids and drill them so I also have infinite oxygen. Will not release the mod though... Working more on it.
There is nothing funny about this comment. Nobody is interested in your mod because it seems like it makes the game easier.
@@Kotsknots I posted this comment 4 months ago... I don't even play the game anymore and some people might like the game to be a bit easier. And regardless you don't need to be triggered about it, just move on with your day...
What happens when you cool something other than clean water?
Poluted water has a better thermal capacity than clean water and im sure that has an effect on the amount of heat pulled into the aquatuner?
I personally prefer to use automation around these things but i think that may have more to do with the fact that i just enjoy figuring it out.
Loving the series Skye, I missed the Live stream though so think I missed something :(
Would have liked to see you build it lol.
Will the main body of water you have in your base rise too much or do you have a plan so it doesn’t?
The stream is on the channel, so you can watch it at your leisure.
I watched some of your live stream. Sorry that some people are being a holes. Thanks for the videos their always entertaining
Time to tear part of my cooling structures and making 3 of those
How do i make the space inside the box a vacum??? Its hard man
Hello guys. Awesome live stream yesterday 😄
Nice badge ;)
@@SkyeStorme Thank you! I love seeing how you make designs and base layouts in the series. It makes it easier for me because I copy the setup and my base is set. So I really mean it when I say thank you for posting 😄😄
Cool your base and produce consistent energy from the Steam Turbine: Clever and Elegant.
its not producing a power gain due to the aqua tuner using 1200w (and 240w for the liquid pump) while the steam gen is making 350w, this system is for deleting heat/a cooling loop.
including what the steam gen is producing this system is still using over 1000w
would it be possible to use polluted water instead of drinking water for the cooling loop?
Reducing liquid flow is making cooling loop less power efficient (cooling 5kg of water cost same ammount of enegy as cooling 10 kg)
Polluted water is a bit better and cheaper as coolant.
Would not have bought this game if I saw this video beforehand. Now I’m already 40 hours and just starting to realize I don’t have a degree in engineering 🤯
Instructions unclear, cooling system worked too well and froze all the pipes then broke. [Jokes aside this setup is super effective and I thank you for sharing it!]
so mine overheated, I'm waiting for the system to cool down so I don't let all the steam out with tempshift plates and a wheezewart XD
definitely going to replace it with steel instead of gold
Any chance you or someone could show how to splice the cooled water off into all the sections of the base and make it return back to the cooling system? Its so confusing trying to splice and run all those pipes properly to hit every section of a base.
Dont know if you are still reading comments but need some help here. One whats the deal with the drain pipe on top of that sensor that drops the water down. and another is I cant seem to grasp where needs o be insulated pipes and conductive pipes. Do you have a save of something like this so I can look my self what pipes are what etc? I tried to do something similar to this to try to cool down a pool of water and 150 cycles later it only dropped 1-2 degrees at most. Thanks.
Soo do you pre-cool the water or is 30c-ish water fine?
I haven’t found copper yet, will aluminium be better or worse?
Good idea sky! I am enjoying this series.
what is you used only plates in all the tiles and not use any oil ?
it takes rly long for steamer to take effect.but the cooling effect is awesome
Is this something you would use until end game then? Or are there other solutions further down the line?
Might upgrade some of the materials used but yeah this should totally be good enough for end-game
Skye, my aquatuner doesn't raise the temperature above 125C and I am sending packets of 10kg water constantly. As soon as it gets above 125C it works for a second or so and the temp drops below 125C almost instantly, it seems like the aquatuner is not getting hot enough.
well then its perfect, just dump acuatuner into oil and free unlimited cooling for everything :)
Oh, man! This is finally a sollution I can use in my gameplay! Subbed and liked ;-)
So much better than that total waste of time one you showed off in the live stream.
Thanks for your practical advise!!
thx ive been looking for something like this
everyone else has some super complex systems
and its difficult to model what i need from them and feel good about myself, plus im limited on power unless i want dupes ears popping from co2
ive been trying to work out a simple system to do cool steam cooling for the first time, in a more early game base around cycle 100
How did he get steam in there?
@@nekonesto3125 the steam turbine pumps out water
u use that water in radiant pipes to cool the turbines
when it dumps back into the hot chamber it evaporates to steam based on the temp
since this ive been using other liquids based on brothgars video with lumber
now i use ethanol for steam
this way i can get around using a turbine and still get cooling
although its definitely a balance for what is possible and what materials u have
You sir are my new hero! ty v much for this !
This will end up breaking your pipes in a real game since it has no automation for the liquid in the pipes. If you are running fresh water, it will work but has that much water to have a continuous loop and dump it somewhere else. I guess it can still work. You would just have to keep an eye on it.
Very nice sir, love your contraptions and how you solve problems in this game. Awesome as always
He's probably watched a couple videos of some other people playing at some point or another, if you do that it's almost impossible not to see these kinds of cooling systems because everybody uses them. The turbine/aquatuner combo has been the standard cooling system for most of the long term playerbase for several months now.
No .. actually I didn't :)
@@SkyeStorme Fair enough ;) People who climb the same mountain usually end up at the same summit.
Could you deliberately freeze your pipes and then show how to fix them as a "Tip Video"?
(just in case your making a list of Tip Video Suggestions) love ya'
Nothing much to say .. just repair your pipes :)
@@SkyeStorme clever!
A part of me wonders if I can run a tepidizer for steam on Rime and get something similar but instead of cooling just try to keep the tepidizer low enough to boil water but not overheat the turbine?
can't you place the cooler after the resouvoir and in the begining of the loop so you have alway a consisent flow even if you use te water for showers and other stuff, and you can heat the resouvoir if is get to cold
How about making a REC room in the middel?
How can i take away the gas before I close with the insulated tiles?
I wish I could find a similar system but for Rime. I like playing on cold biomes...
Awesome series!
A question though, is this system design still works?
Tried doing it, always overheats
Realized Aquatuner now overheats at 125C... was wondering why u have at 140 and still no damage.
You must change the building material of the aquatuner to Gold Amalgam, the default material would be Copper Ore, but that has 125c overheat limit, the Gold Amalgam goes up to 175c
@@andresnexuschamarra6991 Thanks!
Use polluted water for better cooling and less of a chance to freeze your pipes.
I built this setup and my aquatuner eventually overheats and incurs damage. It's made out of gold. I think I might have a little too much crude oil in the bottom. That's the only thing I can see different from the system in the video. I'm starting to think the crude:water ratio in the "cooling tank" is pretty important. Any thoughts?
it depress me how simple and effective it is, specially how weak weeze worts are against these. I hope the game puts you more into improvising stuff instead of using the standard things, I mean you did make an setup your own, but as you said, just these 2 and nothing else needed.
Todd Howard also said it just works with 76
How did he get steam in there?
doesnt it run more efficiant if you use higher steam temp? mid tear you should be able to use a steel aquatuner right?
higher steam temp make (for example 160) = more power out of your generator (you do need a temp sensor for this one set to above 160 degrees)
You can't make the aquatuner out of steel .. only basic ores
@@SkyeStorme You absolutely can make an aquatuner out of steel. It's the best way to generate steam for steam rocket engines.
Still with golden algum melting temp is 175 so 160 is still safe
@@starshard0 checked the oni wiki its only ore so no refined metals ;)
Eh, you can make all machines out of Steel.
So you are sacrificing efficiency for the ability of regulating temperature?
How am I sacrificing efficiency?
@@SkyeStorme You said it yourself: aquatuner consumes same amount of energy regardless of the amount of water pumped through. So you turn down the valve to regulate the flow, but aquatuner will still consume same energy
@@IcyBalls-v3p Ah! Yes if you use the valve to restrict the flow then yes .. if you want to regulate the temp in your base then it's more efficient to send fewer packets through the aquatuner
All you gotta worry about is power.
I have yet to play a game where crude oil is available w/o a slickster.
I think I've always found crude oil near the bottom magma layer on every map so far
It's not exactly in balance. Now, if you were using that to try to power your base, then you'd have a problem. But, since that system only has one purpose, you're effectively recovering energy to help cool the water, which is still a legitimate goal to have.
367W - 1200W = -833W
don't forget the 240W for the pump from his water storage at the start of the loop. its a good system if you need that much constant cooling. i think this set up and just a temp sensor for base temp to turn the loop on and off would be a better solution overall (and a bypass for liquid under 15C so you don't get pipe freeze). that way as your heat scales it automatically scales with your needs overall it would save the constant 1073W draw, sure the steam gen would produce less but its not for power gen system anyway.
That's the way i'm going to use it, not sure if it will work exactly as i intend but hey worth a go ;)
EDIT seconds later may close the loop and use polluted water, a little less thermo connectivity but freezes @-20C so better for pipes and late game if i need the temp sub zero
Hey do you have any tips on how to get duplicants to que buildings that are off because of the motion sensors? They wont use anything in my base because its all off. I dont know if its a mod messing up their job ques or what hope u can help
The problem with this system is that the water has to constantly be pumped through it so the pipes will freeze and it is inevitable becuase the water enters at x degrees cools by 14 and goes tmrough the base so unless it heats up by 14 in the base it will slowly go down and down past 0 degrees
I just realised it can be fixed by checking the temperature of the water entering the system and if it’s below 14 just piping around the base again or doing whatever else you like
It will take AGES for that to happen because he's dumping the water in the main water tank and pulling new water into the loop. By that time you will be further along in materials and research and have enough of an understanding of how the thing truly works to be able to begin to improve it with things like an automated shut off.
Psst... Skye...
Steam is the gaseous form of water...
Also, you should probably run three Aqua-tuners. I think the general ratio is that three aqua-tuners can run one steam turbine. Though I'm not sure off the top of my head what would change in your water-oil equilibrium.
IIRC it's 3 aquatuners : 2 turbines
@@Southpaw17 You're probably right, but in general if you use that setup for this and mess around with the flow rate you should be able to make the power generation to consumption ratio of the whole thing more efficient. Though, like I said it's hard to just do it all right out of my head.
The point is stable temperature control, not energy production. Assuming you want your base to remain around 60-70F then you'll only ever want or need 1 aquatuner, and if you use a reservoir instead of a giant pool and a nice bypass system, the aquatuner probably won't even run 90% of the time.
This game really needs a Factorio style blueprint system
There is a mod for blueprints
How do you get the water “in the top row”? I understand everything except what you said there
Just the way the game handles liquids really. Oil in first, then water will sit on top. even if the oil is only 200kg when the water goes in, it will occupy the next tile up since no 2 liquids or gasses can occupy the same tile.