COOLING WITH STEAM TURBINES & AQUA TUNERS (Tutorial: Oxygen Not Included)
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- Опубліковано 24 лис 2024
- Hello everyone!
Today, we're going to do a tutorial on how to set up your steam turbines and aqua tuners the right way to make cooling in your base easy. Hope you enjoy!:)
Oxygen Not Included is a space-colony simulation game. Deep inside an alien space rock your industrious crew will need to master science, overcome strange new lifeforms, and harness incredible space tech to survive, and possibly, thrive.
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In the space-colony simulation game Oxygen Not Included you’ll find that scarcities of oxygen, warmth and sustenance are constant threats to your colony's survival. Guide colonists through the perils of subterranean asteroid living and watch as their population grows until they're not simply surviving, but thriving...
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Keep the psychological impact of survival at bay with fun leisure activities, great accommodations and even better food for your colony. Duplicants each have different and potentially destructive ways of reacting to stress, so be sure to always keep them happy. Whatever the cost.
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Temperature control is a constant concern in space; too cold and you'll freeze, too hot and you'll fry. Keep tabs on ambient environmental temperatures and your colony's heat production to maintain a nice, cozy atmosphere for your colonists.
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this system is so satisfying. After I build it i just watched it run for several cycles with either the temperature overlay or the pipe overlay and watched how the temperature dropped and the water moved.
Good use of one's time in my opinion!:)
It only took watching this video 4 different times in conjunction with Francis John's vid on mid game where he talks about aquatuners and steam turbines. I think I finally comprehend the topic enough to give it a go and risk failure on my own colony lol. Wish me luck!
Good luck!
Hey Nathan I managed to squeeze your setup in my base to cool everything down. I set up a cooling pool with crude oil and let all the cooling loops go through it (oxygen, refinery, production machines and the the whole base general cooling loop). I had to add a reservoir after the output pipe to equalize the packet temperatures. Because your setup produces packets at different temperatures from the bypass of the AT 2 and 3, when the temperature sensors switch on/off. Also it helps to keep the cooling loop pipes always full (I filled half the thank with petroleum).
I wanted to drop this here in case someone wants to use it on a medium sized/low indusrial base. I managed to cool the whole pool of crude oil down to 8-9°C whitch is fantastic and little overkill. Let's see if it keeps up as my base grows up!
Thank you bro. You're so good at this game Jeez!!!! You deserved my sub.
For those that have built this now and found it not working due to the change to the liquid pipe thermo sensor, where now it won't redirect the water to the different pipe just stop it's flow, all you need to fix it is build a liquid shutoff - connect it so that the water runs through it and via automation wire connect it to a regular Thermo sensor, this will make the water at the liquid pipe thermo sensor continue to flow ignoring the aquatuner like it did in the video
your language pronunciation so good, my english not great but ı can easly understand what you say tnx bro
That's good, thanks;)
same here ^^ and I learnt so much by watching his videos. And if I'm not mistaken, he his an english teacher... so, one stone, two birds
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Kardeş buralarda türk görceğimi düşünmezdim hiç :)
Finally someone that shows how to build it
2022 and still learning this games. Thank you! ☺️
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Finally somebody explained this in plain English. Thank you so much.
I did manage to get one working using gold amalgam. I had 95 degree salt water coming in, had a leaky oil fissure pouring oil to a wall of Diamond glass and had a cool steam vent in the chamber. It is a wierd contraption that I have not been able to get the automation working in the way I want it.
Now can you explain
-liquid hydrogen and Oxygen
-Shove Vole farming
-Petroleum Boilers
-Sour Gas Boilers
-Multiplexers and the 4 bit stuff
in Plain English as well Pretty Please :)
Francis John has tutorials for that although I think the term "plain English" gives me the impression you already tried those.
There isn't much to explain when it comes to multi bits though it's pretty straightforward
Will do more tutorials, thanks for the suggestions. I learned a lot from Francis too:)
@@instantshutdown9640 Yeap been there awesome guy as well. Learned alot from him especially not being scared to blow stuff up or germs etc. I mean it my liquid lock fails all hell break loose but hey "that's how the cookie crumbles :)"
Sometimes when we know something so well It becomes easy to skip the essential steps that are crucial to make it work.
One example is the SPOM. It works great if you know how to keep it running. By the time I got it working I lost 4 colonies :) It is not just the build itself that you need to know but the way the player plays it. I am at 490 cycles right now on my new base and I have not built a single aquatuner yet. I do have steel. I am just using the biome. I see the aqua tuner as a solution for problems where the biome can not be used to solve.
I am glad you understand multibits. Maybe you can explain it to me in plain English.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Awesome Tutorial m8 as always thank you so much
@@serdaraytemiz9978 I like your thought process when playing the game. That is where the satisfaction comes when you spent cycles trying to figure out a design (or how a design might work) and you have this "aha" moment.
Also when talking about multibits, are you referring to signal selectors and distributors or automation ribbons? I know nothing about the former. But if is the ribbons you're confused about I can help you out.
I havent watched this channel ages!
Welcome back!;)
Dear Nathan, i'm sorry to let you know about this but....now we will want one video everyday xD
Just wanted to make up for last week;)
What I did was run each tuner on its own line to a cooling pool below, with capacity to run 3 cooling loops wherever I wanted. It worked really well as far as keeping the pool cold, and initial power block. However, it could not handle the water geyser's water that I had pooled above my base, I think mostly because the main base had a huge size, running my loop around it and into the hot water pool and back into the cooling pool took over a cycle to complete, and ultimately it seemed to drag the heat around past the pool more than actually cooling it.
One small advantage of running a cooling pool vs running the cooling directly to the aqua tuners is you can run a bridged line of hydrogen gas from each turbine into your cooling pool, this will keep the turbines 15C cooler. Every other turbine method I used overheated without extra heat venting, self-cooling from the water exhaust always failed.
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FINALLY! The simple piping
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Ok I built this but either
1. some hot packets were bypassing the aquatuners lower down the chain for whatever reason.
2. some packets got supercooled beyond its freezing point.
Had to introduce a liquid shutoff between the thermosensor and aquatuner to get it to run reliably.
(Suspect a 2nd packet turns on/off aquatuner and thus 1st hot packet goes out to the bypass or 1st cold packet goes into the aquatuner.)
you don't happen to have a screenshot / of this / lol i'm finding the same thing happening - but yes great vid thanks!
this is the 6th and the one with least view video about this setup i watched today and finally i can understand whats happening. good job
Hehe glad you didn't give up!;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox srtup was no problem but i got ahead of myself and thought "Yea, Im gonna make my water cool to absolute zero". and guess what pipes kept getting broken. took some googling to find that my idea was bad bad. below freezing point water breaks pipes :( hurrah! that must be it right? no, fking no. built AT and broken pipes again but got the connection on loop and same problem. took lotta time to fiure out how i fked up this time. after few hours of that wildfukery now I am confident in making a AT/ST Heat Deletion System. thankx i guess :)
Hehe, intense story!
Nice one. I think it will help new players. 👍
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This was just what I needed!
Great!
Thank you thank you thank you you read my comment! I really needed this to cool down my power setup! Ty
Let me know if you have any troubles, cooling is always a tricky thing, but knowing these basics definitely will help:)
If you place a single bridge facing up after the aquatuner's input and connect all of the bridges output you use one less bridge and it's a bit cleaner of a build. You can also use the steam turbines output to preheat the water and help maintain operating temp for the turbine, a perfect set-up would be 98c water in the pipe and a 98c maintained boiler temp.
I know it's possible with one bridge, but that way you check each packet for every aqua tuner. With the two bridge design you only check packets that made it through the previous aqua tuner. You also don't run into the problem that sometimes packets have to wait and potentially give off a false signal for the aqua tuner. With 3 aqua tuners the steam turbines overheat if you only use the output of the steam turbine. I think they changed it at some point so that it's not viable to do that anymore in almost all scenarios. That's what I found out with my testing, it's overall more fail proof with the two bridges imo, which is why I prefer this design. What do you mean with 98c boiler temp?
@@Nathans-Sandbox A single bridge per aqua tuner doesn't check any more or less packets, it's exactly the same minus the bottom right bridge that you have, the only thing that bridge is doing is jumping the pipe, if the bridges are rotated to face up, it eliminates the need for that bridge. You would not use 'just' the output of the turbine to cool it, but doing this makes cooling the turbine far more efficient. The steam turbine (not boiler, sorry) operates under 100c, if you keep it at 98c you can use it's own output to aid it's cooling while also preheating the water (making the water take less energy to convert to steam), this is the most efficient as using nothing but the aquatuner's output to cool the turbines puts heat back into the liquid you just cooled taking away some of the efficiency.
@@Nathans-Sandbox To show you what I am talking about... imgur(dot)com/a/60wtNGG This effectively does the exact same thing.
Nice, thanks for the pic! You are still using the aqua tuner output to cool down the turbines, wouldn't that mess with your turbine water output? I mean how would you even regulate it to pre-heat and not actually cool down the turbine water output, since you are also using the aqua tuner output to cool it down as well?
As for the bridge, I agree with you that it works, but there will be many times where packets have to wait for other packets to go through. But you're right it would only check the packets when needed, I made a thinking mistake there. I still have the feeling two bridges are worth it for flow efficiency of the packets. Thanks, that should influence my tuner design in the future;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox To regulate it, you would have to play around with the number of conductive pipes for either side, the goal being a steady 98c temp in the turbine room. You can also use a temp sensor and valve to direct the cooler fluid into the chamber if it got too hot. The packets shouldn't back up ever since it will only have a single inlet of flow and the only difference between the designs is that yours has more pipe to act as a possible buffer, but again, since you only ever have a single pipe flowing in, you can only ever have a single pipe flowing out and should never backup unless the outlet got clogged.
I luv ur vids!! This tutorial is very helpful!!
Sweet!;)
I love this tutorial series. Maybe you can add one for oxygen production as well ;)
The best design is the Rodriguez for oxygen, not sure I should make a video on it since it's not my design and very established in the community already.
@@Nathans-Sandbox It's what I'm using for some months.
The name of the video is "Electrolyzer, SPOM, O2, Oxygen: Tutorial nuggets : Oxygen not included"
Very, very satisfying!!!!
Hi from Brazil. That's the best aquatuner design I've ever seen. Did you publish it on reddit?
If you change this to 3 blocks height at the aquatuner room u can place the vent on top of the aquatuner. It seems to cool the aquatuner way faster than it would've been otherwise.
That is true, though it doesn't change much since you have to build the aqua tuners out of steel anyways.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Gold amalgam works too
Only if you keep the steam room below 125 degrees.
Oh boy. Thank you so much for that
My pleasure;)
My hero!
😘
Thank you 👍
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Nice simple how to guide. only thing early game when you want to setup first system for my example cooling a SPOM i do not have access to petroleum yet ... can you just not used it or replace it with water instead ?
ALWAYS build the steam turbines into a Power plant room with a Power Control Station. That gives the steam turbines a massive 50% power output bonus. 850W max to 1275W max, huge difference!
You will have a dupe dedicated to this job though. Power usually comes in abundance, but I guess if you're lacking it for whatever reason it's a good idea to improve them.
I have one question. I'm using aquatuner right now to cool the water which I use for my base (water coolers, farms, showers etc.) the problem is that Liquid Sensor sends *Red Signal* because water at the sensor is bellow 25 C but the water which just entered Aquatuner is around 38 C so the hot water doesn't get the cooling effect and enters my base regularly. Should I put another Liquid Sensor but I don't know if that will help and how? Could I use some Buffer Gate to keep sending *Green Signal* for a little while longer? Please help. :D
I always find the best solution is the have a liquid tank before the aqua tuner, fill it with at least 1 ton of water. The water inside will equalise temperature and come out the same temp out the reservoir. This way once the sensor goes green it will stay greeen for a while until the entire liquid reservoir cooled down. But make sure the liquid tank is outside the steam room;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox Awesome idea! Thank you 😄
Wow grt
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I also use britches at exit slots.
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You do not mean to vacuum out your room if used to different water sources on top for example if you put 100 kg of regular water and then 100 kg of polluted water they would stack up on each other making it slowly whole room is devoid of any gas
The aqua tuner metal refinery is a useles combo. People should not copy that(like you said if players wanna use the refinery setup just use radiant pipe).
Using the aqua tuners is much quicker than radiant pipes. Also if you only use radiant pipes you're gonna need a different setup to cool the turbines.
@@Nathans-Sandbox how quick it is, that i do not know. But you waste a lot of energy. 3.6kw for every 10kg oilpack. The refinery/ radiant pipe setup can make more energy than the input needed. For beginners is a bad example to copy.
Don't forget to subtract the power from the turbines and that you don't need power to cool the turbines down. If you want fast cooling I think it's worthwhile, but the point of the video was not the refinery, you can cool anything you like with that was the point and a refinery convenient to show that off;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox No, he's right. With naptha at 540C heat transfer is going to be even faster with radiant pipes. A -42C drop isn't that much. Remove 2 ATs, replace them with radiant pipes, separate the cooling loops, and use the remaining AT to cool down the turbine(s). With the extra ATs you're turning a potentially power positive process in guaranteed negative.
I get the point of the video is cooling, but even speaking generally it's a bad example. Never have an AT do the job of a radiant pipe. Heat transfer happens naturally from hot stuff to cold stuff. The job of an AT is to use power to force a transfer in the opposite direction.
That's how you can use polluted water (what would boil at 125C) as coolant in a loop and still use a steam turbine to delete heat. The job of the AT is to force a heat transfer (from below 120C pwater to above 125C steam) against the natural direction. To put it simply, you use ATs when the target of the cooling is below 125C. Anytime the target is above 125C, you can transfer heat to steam directly and you don't need an AT for that.
Yes I agree with that, the refinery was only there to have a heat source to show the principle with the aqua tuners.
I have been playing the original ONI for about a year or so, but always get stuck right before heading into space. This video helped a ton but I am not sure the best way to power 3 aquatuner though, they burn through most of the power I can toss at them in a matter of seconds! Any suggestions?
Before you can have 3 aqua tuners you need a solid power system. It is very rare that you need 3 daisy chained aqua tuners. For a lot of contraptions 1 is enough, especially if you use a good coolant.
One of the most straight-forward power systems is to build petroleum generators. As a side benefit, the oil reservoirs and oil refinery both produce natural gas, which you can capture and use as first choice power (so your air ducts don't get backed up). Use smart batteries to control when natural gas generators and petroleum generators run.
Is any else getting damage on the insulated pipe coming out of the aqua tuner? Using Indigenous rock insulated pipe. Have the sensors set to send a green signal over 16 degrees Celcius and I'm getting cold damage? Is anyone else getting this issue?
Make sure the liquid cannot get back into the aquatuner a second time. The bridge is key to prevent that.
Three refinery is a bad example, because you can actually save so much power cooling the hot oil that you can easily GAIN power when smelting steel, iron, aluminium, or tungsten.
Just cool down hot oil with steam turbines.
Connect a cooling loop with polluted water to simply cool the area around the metal refinery. Refineries barely make any heat on the machine itself.
I used the refinery to easily exemplify how the system works. In my LP I also use the steam room, though the aqua tuners are definitely the faster option if you have the spare power imo.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Well, Not faster if you have enough turbines :)
Hehe, I guess so;)
I built the 3 AT design BUT... as August 2022 this design doesnt work as the insulated pipes keeps getting cold damage :/
You can only get cold damage if you cool the liquid beyond the freezing point, which can be avoided by having a high enough setting in the sensor.
add a liquid shutoff between sensor and aquatuner.
I'm having similar issues on the latest build, I ended up disconnecting the loop that can send liquid through the system a second time.
Great video,
but I didn't see the water go in. How much water for that?
I usually use at least 20kg of steam per tile, but you can also add more. I wouldn't go higher than 100kg per tile.
For the love of ONI, Don't do this!
- setup is too hard to build
- it's too big - you can compress the setup in fewer tiles.
- you probably don't need the liquid around the steam turbine if you use a few more radiant liquid pipes - less soggy feet
- it uses a liquid pump all the time => -240W wasted space... instead of a pool of water you can use a liquid reservoir - it doesn't take water out of the pipe loop, so you don't need a pump to be working all the time - you can still equalize the temperature(although you don't even need to do that) with the added benefit of 240W less power needed;
On top of that it uses liquid locks which are cheaty and annoying to set up.
Also, you don't need those ugly bridges for the daisy chained setup - you can use only 1 bridge per aqua tuner and put the bridges 1 tile to the left and connect their output to the next sensor, as well as disconnect the output of the aqua tuner from the next sensor and connect it to the bridge, so you have output - bridge end - next sensor. That will make your room smaller and prettier/easier to build/manage/fix/understand
So if I want to cool down my base I just set lower temperature in liquid thermo sensors or what?
If you run the coolant through a reservoir you set the sensor to the temperature you want it. If the packets are only in the pipes and never see a reservoir you have to make sure the temp in the sensors isn't too low and you get packets with various temps.
@@Nathans-Sandbox I finally understand your smart words techno-man. Figured it out.
@@qu1te2nd47 Try using polluted water for cooling your base! Polluted water doesn't freeze in the pipe until several degrees below -20 degrees. You can easily set the base to 20-25 degrees Celsius with no risk by using polluted water. :)
Also be sure to use a separate aquatuner from other cooling solutions so that your base is prioritized on an independent loop.
@@G.r.e.g.g.l.e.s All those tips are getting Better and better
@@G.r.e.g.g.l.e.s also thank you for that great advice
Hi Nathan! I was wondering if this setup could be self powered? Thanks in advance!
Only with volcanos and a different setup. Also not with many aqua tuners I'm afraid.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Alright will look into it! Thanks
How can I increase the steam in a room. I leave my aqua tuner in there and no steam ever builds up. And if it does it turns on and off the steam turbine. How do I increase the heat in order to create more steam
Hi Nathan! Do you have an updated design that works in the current version of the game? This one runs way too hot, aquatuners break from the heat pretty quickly (~615 f) and the steam turbines are stuck overheating constantly. At a guess the turbines need better sustained cooling but I have no idea how to do that in this design. A bit frustrating after getting it built in survivor! I'm using petroleum coolant and steel/gold/ceramic materials for everything fwiw
I'm far from on this guy's level, but I can tell you to just get creative and snake more radiant pipes over the steam turbine instead of one. Also, use steel for all of those that you can (why worry about it breaking too easily?).
Just want to throw this in there:
in the steam chamber there should be a petroleum layer at the bottom (or any fluid that does not overheat easily)
because there is a bug in the game where extra heat gets deleted when the water comes back from the steam turbine into the steam chamber and lands on the floor.
It pushes steam to the side and the math isn't fully correct and it destroys even more heat. And if the pressure is really high you actually delete a bit steam in the chamber.
The petroleum at the bottom will just get pushed aside instead of gas fixing/limiting the bug to as low as possible. (also the exit should be in the petroleum for that)
pretty sure they fixed that in the latest update
@@AlexanderBurgers I just looked into it, it is not fixed yet. It is still an issue. And people are still discussing how to exploit the actual issue.
forums.kleientertainment.com/forums/topic/118774-massive-heat-deletioncreation-bug-from-liquid-boiling-part-2-20-kw-from-one-aquatuner/
I did not know about this bug and also not about the fix, so I guess that's good in this case:)
@@Nathans-Sandbox No it is not fixed the klay post i showed, shows that they still abuse the fact of this bug. So it is still an issue.
That post you showed is from June, that's quite a few small updates ago.
Didn’t work for me, routinely find the ‘bypass’ pipe well above the limit set by thermo sensor, frustrating.
So im trying to create a room thats effecively a bunch of refrigerators to store food, but i dont want them to actually use power so instead i want to use this similar set up to cool the whole room down and keep the room in a vacum so my foond doesnt spoil, do i HAVE to have the steam turbines for this to work or can i do everything without the turbines?
You need a way to cool things to -18 degrees for deep freeze. Either an aqua tuber or thermo regulator are necessary. You can also use cold biomes for a limited time.
Hello
Hi
Am I understanding correctly that the liquid in the system is a closed loop? If I'm building this outside of Sandbox, in regular mode, how am I starting the system? Do I drop liquid packets with a bottle dropper into the space? Or lead an input pipe to my metal refinery (I used that in my setup)?
I don't recommend using aqua tuners to cool down the liquid in metal refineries, just lead the pipes through the steam room with radiant pipes and cool down the coolant of the refinery to below 200 degrees. I only used that to have something to cool down for the tutorial. As for the closed loop, you can use a bridge to input liquid and then once the loop is full you can deconstruct it again.
2 steam turbines generate 1600W.. and 3 aquatuner need 3600W.. plus 240W from metal refinery... no it isn't happening right..
any explanation?
You need extra power of course, but the aqua tuners shouldn't be running all the time, so it's a bit less constant power requirement.
So overall 40kg water per water tile ( 20kg(per tile in area) x2 (height) = 40kg(per floor tile) = total mass of 200kg water = 20(mass per tile)x(5(width)x2(height) )
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So 3 tiles high and I should do 60kg/tile?
So I have 60°C polluted water that I'm sieving into clean water that outputs around the same temperature I want to cool the water down to 30°C-20°C so I can add it back to my base at some point do you think I should use this set up or is it overkill?
To cool water this is an overkill. Just go with one or two tuners.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Thank you Nathan!
You are making the in-series piping more complex than needed. Follow the bellow setup and you only need 1 bridge per acquatuner. Liquid flows left to right with the pattern repeated as many times as you want. Thermo sensor still in tile before AQ input.
AQ=aquatuner
Br=bridge
O=pipe segment
-- or I = connection between pipes
O--O AQ O O---O AQ O
I I I I I
O Br O---O O Br O--O
At some point you have to combine the liquids from the various tuners again, with only one bridge and multiple aqua tuners I've always run into the problem of packets having to wait for other packets. With the two bridge setup you're guaranteed to get an even flow. Also with your diagram, it looks like after the bridge the packets are allowed to get into the next tuner, isn't that where clogging up situations happen because you basically check each packet before each aqua tuner even though you already checked it for the previous one and it bypassed it? I'll definitely test that diagram out, the reason I'm using two bridges is because it makes it fail proof and smoother in my experience.
@@Nathans-Sandbox that is a good concern, but I haven't run into a backup issue with this setup. It might not be shown well but there is exactly 1 pipe segment free for the bypass or operational side, so both paths are equal if the tuner is on or off.
I just ran a test using 3 with my setup and each tuner had a different temp set with the right most lowest. Changing the temp of pool of petroleum I was cooling, it went from 3 on to 3 to 1 to 0 never stopping. It could be that I have a liquid tank buffer in the loop?
I got a problem, basically I built the whole thing right but some times liquid doesn’t get cooled and just passes through
Try only using a bridge from the bypass to the output instead of both, know what I mean?
That's what i am talking about another tutorial
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Let's say I wanted to cool a large area, I would use AQ to do so. But the packets of polluted water all come back with very different temperatures meaning that the pipes keep on breaking. (I will set my thermosensor to below 0, 4 above freezing point, A 15 degrees packet triggers the AQ which currently has a packet at -6 degrees, breaking the pipe). Do you know how to fix that without putting my thermosensor at ridiculously high temperature? Also, the thermosensor is about 8 pipes away from the AQ so that may affect that as well.
The thermo sensor needs to be one block in front of the aqua tuner. This way the signal actually counts for the right packets.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Alright thank you
You need your thermo sensor on the block right before entering the aqua tuner. That's how all sensors work with objects you want to select whether to run through or not. For filtering liquids and gasses, this is MUCH cheaper than using the in-game general filter - 10 W for an element sensor/shutoff compared to 120W for the filter object, but it's more finicky in how it handles. ALSO, before running your liquid loop directly into the aqua tuner, or even if you're running a cooling pool, use a liquid liquid reservoir. It will even out the temperature of the liquids going into your aquatuner, and it makes expanding or contracting your cooling loop(s) much easier, much less messing about with adding just the right amount of liquid, extracting liquid when the line stops, etc.
@@ahmataevo I usually use a bridge to add water in a loop but I always end up with extra packets so using reservoirs sounds like a better idea. In my case, the loop was not completely filled up so some packets would come hotter than others, now that it's filled up I am not having any problems again.
And like
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after everything was done i forgot to link the bridges inside and now thinking how to get in there without interrupting vacuum or liquid inside....
I know the feeling hehe;)
Can you use a thermo regulator instead of an aquatuner? It does more heat and spends less energy, so I think we have more energy profit
And we could use hydrogen, for example
Thermo regulator is more of an early game machine. Sure it uses less power but there is also less cold stored in gases than liquids.
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the first setup doesn't work. half of the water goes past the aquatuner anyways, how do i fix it?
Make sure the bypass connects to the pipe after the output with a bridge. I built some unecessary bridges, but the setup works as seen in the video.
@@Nathans-Sandbox its too late, the save file before i added the oxygen (getting hydrogen was too hard) has been deleted by the game, too bad it is only used to cool down my base XD
Sorry if this question is a bit noobie, but... What is that "tea cup with a K on it", and how do you get/use it?
Klei unlimited energy machine. Made for debug mode testing
Yep, you get it in the power category after activating sandbox mode;)
i followed it but it aint working for me, the thermo Aqua tuner doesn't function 100% of the time, it just does short bursts, the water travels down another pipe uncooled
Check your settings and conections, apart from making the piping system more complex than it needs to be, the contraption still works like this.
My thermo aquatuner always get temperature damage :( I don't know how to fix that, it's out of steel
Make sure you have enough steam inside the room, so it can adequately cool the tuner.
@@Nathans-Sandbox that was it, I had too little water. Thanks :)
I once tried to do it on my own and didnt know the aqua collers had automatization :/
The automation helps;)
Is it possible to move liquid faster by adding bridges instead of pipes since liquid packets skip middle block of bridge , do you understand what i said 😅 if so then try this out
Yes, if you have a lot of gaps in the flow that might be worth it. Or another scenario would be if you want the liquid to not change temp as much.
I don't get it, aquatuners need 1200 Watts to work, but the steam turbine only produces like 850 watts? My thinking is that I'd need two coal generators for 1200 watts of power for one aqua tuner, that then let's the steam turbine produce 850 watts? Am I missing something?
The aqua tuner with steam turbines isn't a power positive process, you need some extra power.
@@Nathans-Sandbox I guess I don't get it then, I was hoping to get a steam turbine to fix the power problem in my base, but I think I'll just throw more coal generators down if steam power isn't viable
Steam power is viable but not if you heat up the steam with an aqua tuner.
@@Nathans-Sandbox coal it is then hahahaha
So please wait a minute and explain me this little thing. Steam turbine produces 850W, Aquatuner needs 1200W. So since this is going to be always a net loss, this is solely for deleting heat with me still requiring to put energy in from other power sources... is this right?
Then no wonder that it doesn't work, I always expected to get energy out of this and not to put energy in.
It can't be power positive, would be a bit cheaty if you could cool something and gain power at the same time. The steam turbine is fast in deleting heat and it gives a little relief by giving you at least a little power back.
You can use steam turbines in a power positive way by dumping heat generated elsewhere into the steam room and use the turbines to delete the heat. But if you actively use the aquatuners this needs additional power.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Okey, Thank you for clarification... I wasted 3 hours into trying something that is impossible :D The noob trouble got me hard here.
At least it seems like it is possible to get a net positiv of 75W using Power Control Station, but I'm too dumb to use sandbox mode to actually test this and I have no idea if the materials for the chip are worth it. But still, thank you!
I built this just like you show, I checked it many times and yet my liquid goes into the thermal sensor, the sensor shows red, the aqua tuner says disabled by automation and the liquid goes up into the bridge and onto the steam turbine. Never gets cooled.
Then it is already cool enough or the sensor is set too high?
@@Nathans-Sandbox hmmm no, it is definitely not cool enough and if anything I have it set too low. 36.7c I was figuring it would take several passes to get that low but no it passes right through and on
But if the sensor shows red it doesn't detect the hot temperature. So either your settings are wrong or the water is already at the right temp.
@@Nathans-Sandbox so yeah I went over it and I had it set to below instead of above, but when I changed it, the liquid went into the aqua tuner and then the next one still went into the pipe and on. But if you have the sensor set to above a certain temp then isn't it telling the sensor that liquid can pass by also if it is above? I guess I just don't get how these things work. Thanks for your quick answers and trying to help though.
@@Nathans-Sandbox Is it possible that an aquatuner needs an extra tick of being enabled and that the sensor in front is not sufficient to start it? The sensor turns green, the aquatuner makes a noise, very shortly shows that it indeed it is 'cooling' (about 100ms at 1x speed), and then the polluted water travels upwards into the bypass uncooled regardless. There is sufficient power available to run it.
Perhaps this is a bug? But more likely I'm missing something. Or it could be a result of a badly implemented mod... For future reference; I'm running build U41-498381-5.
Thanks for your videos in any case!
I tried this now with my current power, somehow my thermo aquatuner overheats, as i understand the steam turbine should remove the heat from the aquatuner below, but somehow it does not
Did you build the aqua tuner out of steel? Steam turbines start to remove heat above 125 degrees and aqua tuners out of iron or gold start to overheat at this point.
I totally forgot about the steel part, i will change the material and check again, another question, the single aquatuner setup is just for single reduction of temperature, right? Do you think it will still work if I adjust the pipelines to create a loop on the aquatuner to meet a desired temperature?
Yes you can cycle it right back in if it's still top hot, just beware that the pipes shouldn't clog up and run fluently all the time.
I followed this to the T, with no luck for me....
What went wrong?
hast du schon mal das spiel academia: school simulator ausprobiert? würde zu dir passen weil du Lehrer bist
Habe ich tatsächlich, scheint noch ein lustiges Spiel zu sein:)
I did the first one. A small water cooler. My power lines were lead heavy watt and eventually melted. And my steel aquatuner was getting damaged. I put 200k water in but idk what I did wrong
A steam room should never exceed 200 degrees, since that is the limit of the steam turbine. To melt lead wire I think you need to go up to 375 or so degrees, or 325, either way it's too much. Are you sure your steam turbine was doing something?
@@Nathans-Sandbox I will double check everything. I just booted up a sandbox save and duplicated your layout 100% and everything was fine so im curious why mine got too hot.
@@Nathans-Sandbox It looks like my turbine got too hot and wasnt able to delete steam quick enough so my aqua tuner over heated
@@Nathans-Sandbox Why do you think my steam geny over heated? was I trying to run it too long/cool water too much? I have petro on the floor as well
Are you cooling the petroleum?
I dont get it, I did it exactly as you did but the Aquatuners aren't getting any power.
Do you have enough power? Each aqua tuner requires 1200 watts.
@@Nathans-Sandbox I did it on my testing world, so I didn't have power from anything else, I thought it would be able to power itself :(
No, aqua tuners need a lot of juice, unfortunately.
Oof
Is this energy positive?..... i havent touch aquatuner up to now....i cant afford power .my coal is running out my oil is used up so fast......lol
Depends on how much cooling you wanna do, but aqua tuners setups are rarely energy positive.
@@Nathans-Sandbox with all these youtube tutorial it still difficult.... did your base survive the first time you play? 😀
I usually restarted my world before the failing point, but I wouldn't say my first base was good;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox this game lacks minimap right? have to scroll so far to reach the other edge.
Dude, a mini-map would be awesome!
assuming you want to use this in your main cooling loop for the whole base this could keep the aquatuner running at all times, is 1 steam engine enough then considering that it only provieds 850 watts while the aquatuner costs 1200 watts?
Using aqua tuners in combination with steam turbines is never a power positive process. Over many cycles it doesn't matter how many aqua tuners you have. If one aqua tuner provides just enough cooling power, then using 2 tuners will provide double that, but only having to run half the time, therefore not really using more power or outputting more heat. If you want good power, balancing the turbines makes more sense to just have enough cooling so that the steam room hovers around 200 degrees.
Why do I get sand in my steam room?
Did you use saltwater to fill it up?
Maybe. But it’s been running for 100+ cycles with no issues and now I have sand forming :/
So I desalinated the salt water and got sand debris but now it’s turned into a sand tile?
That would be weird indeed.
Why anyone ever need more than 1 aquatuner to cool down 1 line of liquid pipe ? 1 AQ is more than enough for standard size bases, unless you are building mega base. But still, I build few of them and never need more than 1 AQ.
It depends what you cool with the liquid. If the liquid on average heats up more than 14 degrees in its loop, you need more than 1 aqua tuner, so that would be your answer;)
@@Nathans-Sandbox You need to cool your liquid to not get boil, and heat do not do any dmg to building that you are cooling. Please do not tell me, that you are cooling liquid in
Metal Refinery like this as you show on video :D 1 AQ is enough to cool huge amount of liquid or gas, adding more is just cutting the time of cooling somehting. Run some tests, and you will see, that u can cool down everything you will build with 1 AQ. :)
I don't agree with that. I use 3 aqua tuners to bring my fresh water to temperature. If I only use one it would take up to 3 times as long.
Edit: I just saw you said yourself it cuts on time, that is the most important factor imo.
I have another example where one aqua tuner wasn't enough, namely when I cooled down the entire power farm. One aqua tuner would run non stop and the second one would turn on about once or twice per minute. It would have accumulated heat without the second one.
@@Nathans-Sandbox What for do you need so much fresh water at 25C that 1 AQ is not enough to cool it down? Producing oxygen - can be 95C, Bloosom - you have better source of food, Scienece - no need to. I checked my bases, and im not cooling fresh water to 25C in huge amount, only to feed some Bloosom where I created garden with different plants. Cooling Power farm, build it with Gold Amalgam and u need to cool it to 124C or Iron so you need to cool it to 74C no need to cool it lower, unless u want to see your power plant in green or blue temp overlay. Hopefully u are using granite pipe to cooling stuff, not radiant to cool power farm. The way I cool my power farm is steam. I make them with steel and run them in hot room filled with some water, water is boiling and steam turbine is cooling my base to 125C producing power as a side effect. I do not want to argue, just want to see your point of view where you really need to overbuild amount of AQ.
why does my aquatuner overheat😭
Needs cooling with steam and best built out of steel.
There is one problem with this set-up is that it would stutter because there is a bulk of coolant re-entering the 1st temperature tester before re-entering the loop.
Could this be improved upon by having another temperature tester for the coolant exiting the 3rd aquatuner to split between the coolant re-entering the loop and/or exiting it?
With a solution to that, the 3 aquatuners can all run more continuously with less breaks/stutter.
You can use liquid valve on the enter to the loop (first aquatuner). Set flow rate on 50% (5000 g/s) and liquid will freely flow from one aquatuner to another. You also have to fiqure out yourself how much fluid do you need to pump into your loop so you have smooth flow.
Your wasting so much energy, the oil from refinery shouldn't go through the aquatuners it only needs radiant pipes going through the hot room below the steam turbines, that way you will end up with surplus of energy when refining some metals!
The refinery was only to have a heat source, it was there to exemplify something you wanna cool down.
i like them but it no use if you just cheat to build show the real deal.
I do that in my LPs. No sense in doing that for a tutorial.
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