I remember when I first started playing oni and was super intimidated by them. Definitely a good tutorial for newer players, even more seasoned can learn new things too.
Haha, I remember when I was first trying to use aquatuners. I threw them into a cold biome, thinking that was all I needed to do. Had no idea for best results, you gotta stick 'em in liquid or go a step further and do the setup Echo used.
If you have enough of the liquid available that you use as coolant, you can instead of the buffer tank have one cooling loop if you use a liquid reservoir and put the liquid pipe thermosensor right after it in the loop. That way, you can have the aquatuner run when the reservoir contents is too hot. The 14-degree cooler blobs will flow into the reservoir first and equalize with the rest of its contents. You can then set the thermosensor to any temperature (that the liquid supports) you like to have the room cooled at exactly.
a ton of water in tank don't change much when 10kg blobs go in, regardless of if they were much hotter or much cooler. If I use polluted water I often make both input and output buffer tanks, so blobs have always a place to go, and it keeps flowing even if my power dies. I often connect it to 3 or 4 separate loops, sure blobs are much smaller (add flow limiters, to adjust to size, and shutoffs, so you can redirect if needed, and you have industrial grade cooling system) my sleeping area usually don't need more than 1kg blobs, and I like to make it complicated, so I can curse on myself later.
About the bridge issue: The intake of the bridge, the box with the arrow, acts like a IF-THEN-ELSE decider. Its not a crossing (anymore). If you just connect pipes to different directions, the stuff will be split up. But if you have "an arrow box", then its like FIRST go inside whatever the box directing the stuff to go to and only if its not possible, go the other way (if possible). It took me a while to understand that. (Kudos to ERG for the always amazing content.)
I have nearly 1000 hours and you’ve solved a mystery for me. I leave my aqua tuner on during filling. This means I get a 50-50 cooling as an extra blob always hits the bypass bridge.
Same here, I actually use 2 bridges next to each other elsewhere in the loop, the second one doesn't get used until the loop is full and the aquatuner switches
In simple terms, Aquatuner moves heat Steam turbine destroys the heat and makes power(less than the aquatuner tho) So we use aqua to move heat to the turbine
Don't be sorry for talking that long... trust me it helps people understand wtf to do when utilizing these things. I've been stuck at this mid-game point forever trying to understand exactly how to get the right flow going to get this up and running and I finally get it. Thank you
I honest watched a lot of videos of oni, I’m always exploring new builds and lots more. There’s always something new and something undiscovered. This is by far one of the best video and explanation I’ve seen. Please don’t stop ! Best of luck and I hope to see more
@@EchoRidgeGaming I’m super keen for that! I keep getting to mid game then crashing and burning because I go too fast! I’ve got a ridiculous number of hours to not have gotten through the game yet 🤣
Thank you! I'm, for the first time ever, over five hundred cycles and these things intimidate me lol. I'm going to do it though. I'm making it to space soon.
Umm... whoever designed the fluid mechanics of this game, should be introduced to 3 way valves and proper temperature control loop designs. Instead we have the magic liquid bridge and its bugging mechanic became the missing feature of the 3 way valve. Great :)
Tell me a nerd without telling me you're a nerd: "Wait, that was 27 minutes?? Another, another!" :'D For real though, the aquatuner is such a game changer. It opens up so many possibilities, the late game would be almost impossible without it. This was such a thorough tutorial, but that's a good thing when it comes to such a critical piece of equipment. A+, and thank you.
I would avoid using polluted water in the tuner room. When it turns to steam, polluted water leaves a little dirt, and if that gets hot enough, it will turn into a solid block which can short circuit your cooling. If you have some oil or petroleum I think that will work fine with water.
The term transferring chill is absolutely killing me. The laws of thermodynamics say hot travels to cold always. You have heat transfer. Always heat transfer. End rant, thanks, great vid 👍
Exceptionally helpful. I just built a Rodriguez in my base, but the water temp is over 100, so while my dupes can breathe again my plants can't. There was some poor planning when sweeping out materials from the surrounding biomes. This will certainly help with that and with keeping the temp down to begin with. Now to farm some shiny Dreks to get the plastic necessary to build the turbine. Fortunately, you have another amazing tutorial about that too! Thanks!
Thank you Thank you A lot of videos assume players know the trick and how game mechanic works. Yours are the first one I found that explain why mixing polluted water and water together.
Great tutorial! - pro tip with 2 liquids instead of vacuuming the room - very space efficient setup - material usage explanation... nice! Also, I thought that bridge is a mistake, but after some playing around it turns out you NEED to have different length bypass vs aqua tuner path. The reason - The aqua tuner can store 10kg of water and while disabled, it doesn't process the water. So as soon as a warm packet of liquid starts traveling towards the sensor, the aqua tuner turns on and starts processing the liquid inside it. That detail makes the whole liquid packet logic a bit confusing, but .ong story short - it works!
Sleet wheat farm - I'm not using an AT/turbine to cool mine, although I might switch to that in the future. Instead it's cooled by the output from a cool salt slush geyser, run through a small tepidizer to go up to 2C, desalinated, and then feeds into the sleet wheat farm. In the future overflow will go to the bristle berry farm just beneath, that pipe will be warmed just a bit more for the bristle berries. The sand I get from crushing the salt goes to my cool slush geyser's offgassing chamber where I make cold oxygen and clay for ceramics. I will add a grubfruit farm when I can to make mixed berry pie, one sulfur geyser is more than enough and I got two of those.
With the Spaced Out DLC, my current starting planetoid is rich in metal, arbor trees, and pockets of ethanol. The clean water pockets are limited so clean water is kind of scarce, and there's only a few pockets of polluted water near the initial starting biome. There are no reed fibers, or oil on this planet either. So I'm currently without my atmosuits. I can however ranch dreckos for their coats to make my fibers but I need the cool water to produce oxygen. Power isn't a major issue, but oxygen is. There is however a cool steam vent that isn't too far from my starting base with a big pocket of water, however it was about 165 - 175 degrees in F while dormant. The cool steam vent puts out at about 195 - 205 degrees F, not quite hot enough to boil the water. After analyzing it, I built a set of mesh tiles off to the right of the geyser so that the water it generates can flow down. Then I built a chamber with a set of flood gates to bring about 6 tiles worth of water 2 high by 3 wide into it feeding into another flood gate. This chamber is 12 tiles 2 high by 6 wide. And these two are the lower half of the entire chamber. Above the first chamber right after the pool of water from the cool steam vent I have another room that is the same size as the first chamber and this room becomes sealed off with air locks, and the last chamber is open with mesh tiles for my dupes to walk across and build or adjust things if needed. Yes without my atmosuits they suffered scalding and a few of them even got heat strokes in the initial build. The reason I had the separate room above the first flood gate and and the second chamber being opened is that I had to put gas pumps in there to create a vacuum to suck out all of that hot air (oxygen-co2)... so that it wouldn't add heat back into the water. I had the pump as far as possible from the main pool. I only have copper, iron and aluminum to work with. Now to cool this water. I have the aquatuner but I don't have the steam engine as I have not done any material science yet. I need the cool water now because the amount of algae is very low and I was using up the slime fast to turn it into algae. So I didn't have time to do the material science. So how did I cool this water? I used two aquatuners in series one right after another being cooled by 32 - 40 degree ethanol. Just to the right of this tamed steam vent and the chambers I built and up above were two pools of ethanol one right above the other. So I build a big tank chamber to catch all of this ethanol by gravity. I then pumped the water from the cooler chamber which was about 165 about 2 degrees below the pumps capacity before being damaged into the two aquatuners. Then I used radiant pipes going through the cold ethanol into a storage tank. I was also pumping out this ethanol into another building into another storage tank that's feeding two petroleum burners with a carbon skimmer and water sieve setup. Now as for the chilled water in the tank I was sending this out and splitting it two ways. The first was going through a long series of conduction panels under the two chambers within the insulated tiles (igneous rock) and them coming back around still through another series of conduction panels just below the first through insulted tiles (granite) and this feeds back into the aquatuners. The other split of the water is feeding into an electrolyzer build (self powering once running) to give me oxygen. I'm not using any automation on my aquatuners as I didn't have the room for it. However, the water feeding my electrolyzer is about a stable 68 degrees, and Now, this isn't a "permanent" set up and it won't last forever since the heat of the aquatuners and my usage of the radiant pipes is heating up the ethanol near the tuners to about 100 degrees in about 100 cycles, the other side of the ethanol reservoir is about 55-70 degrees. It won't stay cool long and I'm burning so my current use of the acquatuners won't last long, but this was needed for that desperate oxygen. Yeah try doing a build with limited resources and not all technologies unlocked where an aquatuner is a must. This was a challenge. I have 12 dupes, I'm at cycle 224 and finally got enough oxygen to fill the place, but it won't last, but should give me enough time to get some other needed things done. I do have another way to cool the hot water once I break into it and analyze it. There is a cool salt geyser in a cold biome. Not sure if it's producing salt water or brine, but I can pump that and the hot water directly into the same reservoir together then extract the salt out of it. Yeah, it's been a fun build and I really like this colony. I think they'll strive once I can get a few more things automated. Oh and they're still currently living off of meal lice... but I should now be able to get my arbor tree farm - power production going, and I should be able to start to set up some ranches along with getting my material science started. Yeah trying to do an aquatuner build without steam engines and gold is a challenge. I can already transport to the second planetoid through the teleporter, but I want this colony to be "stable" before I send anyone over. I need to get my farms and ranches up and running and I need to get my bathrooms and kitchen(s) built. So yeah, the aquatuners are fun to work with, but can definitely be a nuisance with their heat output. I'd say that my current starting planetoid is about 60-70% dug out already. I have about 3 or 4 isolated cold biomes that I haven't tapped into yet, I haven't broken through the top section but I can see space on the far top left corner and I'm dug down to the lava zone on the bottom right corner. Other colonies, I would have had my farms and ranches up and running at around cycle 50-100... Oh and I had to analyze a tame - close off 2 minor volcanoes too before they started to spill out magma. I love this game!!! ... Now as for the author of this video, your content, tips and explanations of how to build and use them is really good advice to build off of.
Another good way to cool one of these is to use the polluted water from the bathrooms and send the hot Pwater into a peppernut farm. Or just skip the middleman and stick the aquatuner in the peppernut farm directly. Putting it in a bath of ethanol at the bottom of the farm works good because it will spread the heat much better than air when it evaporates. Also, putting a thermo sensor in the chill reservoir like a block of ethanol or brine surrounded by the ice. It makes piping a little simpler and does the same thing. One last thing, using a flow valve at max flow will allow you to make an uninterruptable loop for the aquatuner. I generally stick it outside the steam chamber to save steel, but as long as both input and output pathways are made the same length, it doesn't matter.
Was wondering if you can do a tutorial on how to set up a conveyor system to cool down material for metal volcano’s I can never get the layout right and it just stops all the time.
This isn't your fault. There is a small bug with the rail sensor where it will not read tiny fractions of material. It ends up backing it up there. Check out the Primus series we did two series ago, there is a igneous rock conveyer system in a volcano tamer that may help until I do a proper tutorial. Thanks for the request and comment!
there was at one point a long time ago an exploit with ethanol instead of water, and no turbine. the system worked based on the difference in heat capacity of the gas and liquid versions of ethanol. i don't know if it still works or not. i saw it being used once on a livestream of the asteroid oassis. also, one could place an aquatuner near space if they don't have plastic for the turbine. have a water line drip some of the water from a geyser as sacrifice.
Learning this game is really hard. All my systems break and fail lol. I'm trying to get into the correct frame of mind to make sure I follow all the logical requirements instead of just trying to memorize the builds.
I think it's fine to copy popular builds from the community because you learn a lot by just building it and making it actually work in your colony and can tweak it or create your own later. On the other hand some people like trying to build their own system and fail over and over until they get it right and that's okay too - as long as you have the time and patience!
When I first started playing, I had to make like 30+ colonies before I manage to make any progress, I would last 60 cycles and then 80 cycles and so on. every colony died to some roocky mistake, which is not surprising considering I am a roocky. I think playing around and not getting too attached to my early attempts is the most fun part about learning a new game
Question on the utility of the ice : You put the ice in just to get something very cold and solids radiate heat / cold more efficiently than liquid which are more efficient than gas? Question of understanding: the metal door is to create a vaccum and make sure the temp shift stops? Third question: Since the tuner will keep on woring as long as the input is warmer than the automation goal more, could I use it to cool down more than just what you showed in the video (provided I have the right coolant and such)? I would have to do it by order of prority but for general base cooling it could work (I hear the mineral consumption and so on, of course).
I just put a buffer gate on the aquatuner thermo sensor and set it to 0.5s. This way, the liquid pack currently in the tuner input pipe segment has moved on, but the one in the thermo sensor is just moving in. Also, for loops with nuclear waste, always put a valve after the sensor (buffer gate applies here too) and put the automation in it. Otherwise, if the tuner turns off with nuclear waste inside, you'll get "corrosive element damage" and lose said coolant to the environment.
Thanks for the great tutorial! One question though: I built the aquatuner setup just as shown, but the liquid bridge bypass doesn't work. If the liquid gets too cold, the loop just stops. Any ideas why that's the case? Thanks again!
There is one thing I do not yet fully understand: Lets use this setup: I want 2 ice tiles, but I use polluted water (-20,6 C freezing point) Do I set the pipe thermal sensor to -20,6 + 12 = -6,6 C (maybe +1 C to be sure) So set it to -5,6 C to prevent the pipe from breaking by freezing the cooling liquid? My confusion is: in the vid you put the sensor at -50 C but if the incoming water is -49 is will get -63 C right? But in the vid its said "set it to the temp you want it to be". Hopefully somebody understands what I am trying to say and can clear this up for me. Thank you Echo for the tutorials they are very helpfull!
In the past I had the dirt leftover from the polluted water solidify into a tile, which breaks it. I guess the mistake was both to much polluted water and to high temperature? It can probably only form the tile with enough kilos of dirt?
I always had a hard time getting my head around temp management until I looked at it the opposite way to everyone else, once I saw that you are just moving heat it made more sense to me, instead of injecting chill, I am moving heat out of the water, through the aquatuner which is moving the heat into the steam room and the steam turbine then deletes it... maybe I am just strange... My mum always said I was backwards
I'm sure I'm not the first to point it out, but a lot of mystery would be cleared up if people remembered that "chill" is just a lack of heat. -273C is 0 Kelvin. Supercoolant cannot freeze because there is no more heat left in the fluid for the aquatuner to remove. Heat capacity is the amount of heat required to change a material's temperature. The aquatuner reduces temperature by 14 degrees, which is a different amount of heat depending on the working fluid's heat capacity. Heat is a measurement of energy. Temperature is a measurement of potential the energey - heat - moves from high to low potential - temperature. Temperature does not move, and temperature is not conducted. Heat does.
ONI is the game smart people play to torture themselves. If you aren’t an engineer the only way to have fun is to accept the inevitability of failure and laugh about it. Anyways I have about 100 hours clocked in and I’m still trying to get to space travel.
And if you are engineer, the only way to have fun is to accept that it pretends to be scientifically accurate, but actually breakes almost all laws of physics. And break them even more.
-271.15c is absolute zero… so freezing supercoolant to .2 is impossible to a level where we would need to redifine absolute zero the point where everything stops. But let’s say that number is just rounded up and physics still works.
Seems to be a bug in the game again... Using the "pipe temp sensor", with the pipe going into the aquatuner and also into a "pipe bridge"... There are points where the game prefers going to the bridge, and not sending it into the aquatuner, but the aquatuner runs, "empty", as you watch all the fluid go right past it. I can't figure out what the issue is, but it worked for days, perfectly. Loading, one day, it just started taking the other path as priority, instead of the priority being the closer aquatuner, which is empty and running. Though, this was the "replacement", as I built one out of copper first, it broke, and it was deconstructed and rebuilt with steel. Which also required rebuilding the pipes. (Which, somehow, might be responsible for the swapped priority bug.)
I don't like using polluted water in my steam rooms, polluted water has a evaporation point much higher than regular water, which means while you're busy getting the room up to temperature the polluted water has an opportunity to emit polluted oxygen which is lighter than steam and interferes with the function of the turbine. I'd use brine or saltwater instead.
I'm having the issue where my insulated pipe that is connected directly to the aquatuner output, is getting damaged no matter what I make it out of. Any tips?
Many different ways. You could fill it with water, close it in, and then pump some of the water out :) The temperature shift plates and automation ensures there is enough water to maintain the needed chill, so when the steam geyser erupts, the steam turns into water instantly.
@@EchoRidgeGaming oh thank you!!! I was think you might pump the gas out but then I was like 'how did he get rid of the gas pump then once it is closed up 😂
so i am playing in creative mode or sandbox mode just to play and learn the things. i literally followed this exactly but the tuner will not heat up thus not heating the water which wont make steam. the tuner wont even over heat either. please advise
I try to use aquatuner with the same schema, but it skips every second blob of coolant and the result looks messy. It is somehow reworked in last 2 years or I have a mod that messes with aquatuner system?
I appreciated this tutorial very much! As a player who takes his sweet time to enjoy watching the progression, I stopped playing ONI couple years back because I could not prevent a heat death. ONI is a game about stressing to survive, true, but this inevitable doom put me off the game entirely - hoping to change that. I'm still worried about heat and slime-lung (Not sure how far I need to progress to get materials for a viable Aquatuner setup to cool my colony). Not sure if I need to go through (or into) slime biome for viable materials, but never figured out how to decontaminate it (haven't played since they added suits, is that what people are using for it nowadays?)
If I'm understanding correctly the choice to use a layer of pwater below the water was so you wouldn't need so much of either since ONI forces them to stack? But does the pwater turn into steam or does it stay there after the water does? If it stays, wouldn't it off-gas? If it turns into steam is it psteam? Why is this perplexing me lol. One other question, why do your designs vary from just 2 tiles high for the steam chamber to much larger?
The P.water will take longer to turn to steam, but then the water would have already flashed. The pressure is much too high for the p.water to off gas. When the p.water flashes it also turns into regular old steam (but leaves behind a little bit of dirt). I switch it up sometimes jus depending on the specific build.
@@EchoRidgeGaming Thanks! I tried it with 1 row pwater, 1 row water, 2 rows oxygen and the system completely failed due to the oxygen blocking the steam turbine's inputs. I read a comment here from someone else stating the oxygen would get overwritten by the steam but that wasn't the case for me. I now have it working from your video with just 2 rows of water (I prefer the look of the box with no dirt left behind). One last question, I noticed sometimes you use temp shift plates and sometimes you don't. I can see why you used them to change resin state but what about the steam chambers? It looks like if you don't have radiant piping going through every square you opt for temp shift plates to spread out the chill, is that right?
With all of my appreciation of sharing this knowledge, what i do not really like is that those lessons are made in debug mode. The problem with metal refineries in real game is that you are always limited in ore, meaning you are not able to use it most of the time, meaning it would not be that hot enough, meaning you will have not enough energy to run aquatuner constantly, and its own heat is not enough to produce energy... So what you really have to have is the source of EXTREME heat like magma volcano, or source of gas like hydrogen or nature gas vent to be able to produce constant amount energy (pretty limited with gas vents by the way) as an alternative solar panels can be used as well. The rest of other things are pretty limited and resource consumable.
hey there! followed your tutorial to the letter, but Im having problems with the aquatuner since I cant make it out of steel.. only metal ore. I dont understand, was there an update that changed the material of the aquatuner from refined metal to only metal ore? I'd appreciate any advice
Very nice tutorial! Is there a special reason to cool water into ice and have the chill transferred to metal tiles instead of looping the coolant through the metal tiles directly and skip the two water/ice tiles? Is the high heat capacity of the ice important to keep the temperature stable?
Only really gives you flexibility. If we decide to change the temperature of the cooled area, we don't need to adjust the coolant temp. We can then just adjust the temperature of the room and know the coolant still has chill to give. It makes more sense when you are not using super coolant and can only go so cold with early game liquids.
I did the polluted water and normal water stack and it worked great until the polluted water made dirt which then turned to solid sand breaking the whole thing
You were making your water too cold it seems, so the water cracked the pipes when it turned to ice. Raise your cooling temp. Remember an Aquatuner reduces the temp of liquid by 14 deg C.
My Aquatuner keeps overheating but I followed every step. It quickly reaches beyond 175 degrees shooting up to 225. Is this because I'm trying to cool to much?
Sure you can dump the heat into a big pool of water/polluted water. The turbine is just the easiest way to delete the heat. Or else you are on a clock still. Just moving the heat is a temporary solution.
Nice video. Allow me to nitpick tho. Don't take this personally, but please, don't show aquatuners with crude oil or petroleum as coolant. I have no idea who started this, I know there are still old guides around from 3 years ago that show that, but please just don't perpetuate it. There's absolutely no reason to use crude oil. There aren't many reasons to go below -8°C, and you can reach that with polluted water. If you really want to go below that, use ethanol, or if you don't have it (and don't have arbor trees), at least use naphtha. Also you mention 585 kDTU/s but you should warn that's for water only. If you use super coolant that's twice as much, and if you use crude oil that less than half (all for the same energy consumption).
I been looking at your tutorials and they are the best I found. I am personally having a hard time with water purification if you decide to make a tutorial about that.
Tuesday's (12/14) episde is actually about a water purifier... although it is a massive purification plant and probably not suitable for individual uses.
@@EchoRidgeGaming I check it out, for some reason everytime I filter the polluted water, after the germ sensor actives when there should not be any germs, my water end up with some germs... I will try with 2 sensors to see if that fixes the issue.
@@EchoRidgeGaming pro tip... Don't use sinks, use "hand sanitizers". Also, don't use toilets, stick with outhouses. You will never have "germs" again, in your water. Simple cure for germs in polluted water... Just use alternating storage tanks that sit in chlorine filled rooms. As one is filling with germ water, the other is sitting until the germs are gone. Then you empty the germ-free tank, before swapping them over. Just a simple shutoff valve is needed, to swap draining when one tank is full, or the other. Purification is only needed to replace what is consumed. Many things happily consume polluted water... Plants are one of them, deoderizers consume the gasses, which reduces the volume of water for cheap oxygen, etc... Excessive heat turns polluted water into clean water-steam, leaving "dirt" as a byproduct...
A+ for putting the reference shots up front. SUPER helpful.
I remember when I first started playing oni and was super intimidated by them. Definitely a good tutorial for newer players, even more seasoned can learn new things too.
Haha, I remember when I was first trying to use aquatuners. I threw them into a cold biome, thinking that was all I needed to do. Had no idea for best results, you gotta stick 'em in liquid or go a step further and do the setup Echo used.
You can't make a perfect tutorial in 12 seconds.
Echo: hold my teacup
If you have enough of the liquid available that you use as coolant, you can instead of the buffer tank have one cooling loop if you use a liquid reservoir and put the liquid pipe thermosensor right after it in the loop. That way, you can have the aquatuner run when the reservoir contents is too hot. The 14-degree cooler blobs will flow into the reservoir first and equalize with the rest of its contents. You can then set the thermosensor to any temperature (that the liquid supports) you like to have the room cooled at exactly.
Exactly what I was going to say. My sleet wheat farm is 2 degrees, not 3 not -2
I like this. Will steal in the future :)
a ton of water in tank don't change much when 10kg blobs go in, regardless of if they were much hotter or much cooler.
If I use polluted water I often make both input and output buffer tanks, so blobs have always a place to go, and it keeps flowing even if my power dies.
I often connect it to 3 or 4 separate loops, sure blobs are much smaller (add flow limiters, to adjust to size, and shutoffs, so you can redirect if needed, and you have industrial grade cooling system) my sleeping area usually don't need more than 1kg blobs, and I like to make it complicated, so I can curse on myself later.
@@deilusi "so I can curse at myself later" is the perfect representation of how I like to play this game hahahahahahaha
I'm really bad at imagining things, can you explain this system better? I'm interested!!
About the bridge issue: The intake of the bridge, the box with the arrow, acts like a IF-THEN-ELSE decider. Its not a crossing (anymore). If you just connect pipes to different directions, the stuff will be split up. But if you have "an arrow box", then its like FIRST go inside whatever the box directing the stuff to go to and only if its not possible, go the other way (if possible). It took me a while to understand that. (Kudos to ERG for the always amazing content.)
Freaking crap where have you and this video been the last 300 hours. So much help! Thank you!!!
I have nearly 1000 hours and you’ve solved a mystery for me. I leave my aqua tuner on during filling. This means I get a 50-50 cooling as an extra blob always hits the bypass bridge.
Same here, I actually use 2 bridges next to each other elsewhere in the loop, the second one doesn't get used until the loop is full and the aquatuner switches
I finally managed to do this! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Don't think I'd ever have gotten this far without your help!
In simple terms,
Aquatuner moves heat
Steam turbine destroys the heat and makes power(less than the aquatuner tho)
So we use aqua to move heat to the turbine
Don't be sorry for talking that long... trust me it helps people understand wtf to do when utilizing these things. I've been stuck at this mid-game point forever trying to understand exactly how to get the right flow going to get this up and running and I finally get it. Thank you
Thank you for the kind comment :)
I struggled to get my head around the liquid bypass but thank you very much for explaining it just waiting the holidays to play ONI.
Thanks! The exact tutorial I needed!
Thank you very much for the Super Thanks. It goes a long way towards being able to make more videos!
I honest watched a lot of videos of oni, I’m always exploring new builds and lots more. There’s always something new and something undiscovered. This is by far one of the best video and explanation I’ve seen. Please don’t stop !
Best of luck and I hope to see more
I'm so glad I found this gem of a channel. So much useful information, and the challenge videos are also pretty cool
Thank you :)
I do really like your tutorials. Frankly I just like how you go through things. Chill and focused, great combo.
Ps easier content, between series?
Next series is going to be a beginner series where we take things super slow! Should be great for newer players or players trying to up their game.
@@EchoRidgeGaming I’m super keen for that! I keep getting to mid game then crashing and burning because I go too fast! I’ve got a ridiculous number of hours to not have gotten through the game yet 🤣
@@graphitebeans you and me both! But I getting there.
I watched all your tutorial in 1 month and i can say one thing " THANK YOU" you really saved most of my problems and confusion that i had.
Thank you! I'm, for the first time ever, over five hundred cycles and these things intimidate me lol. I'm going to do it though. I'm making it to space soon.
Also, you got my name completely correct bonus points for you!!
Enjoy the journey!
Some of your first comments, right? :)
@@nazgu1 yes pretty close to it
Omg this tutorial is GOD TIER, it shows hot he started the aquatuner setup, and explained everything perfectly, love it
Wow thank you very much.
Umm... whoever designed the fluid mechanics of this game, should be introduced to 3 way valves and proper temperature control loop designs. Instead we have the magic liquid bridge and its bugging mechanic became the missing feature of the 3 way valve. Great :)
Tell me a nerd without telling me you're a nerd:
"Wait, that was 27 minutes?? Another, another!" :'D
For real though, the aquatuner is such a game changer. It opens up so many possibilities, the late game would be almost impossible without it. This was such a thorough tutorial, but that's a good thing when it comes to such a critical piece of equipment. A+, and thank you.
I would avoid using polluted water in the tuner room. When it turns to steam, polluted water leaves a little dirt, and if that gets hot enough, it will turn into a solid block which can short circuit your cooling. If you have some oil or petroleum I think that will work fine with water.
Wouldn't that require an entire tile worth (one ton?) of dirt?
@@Kenionatus no, just a little bit can make a tiles
By the time you are commonly using aquatuners you should be using steam turbines and have oil for plastic already sorted.
I use lead conductive wire to act as a fuse. If the lead wire melts, the aquatuner is already overheating.
Pretty good idea. I like it.
The term transferring chill is absolutely killing me. The laws of thermodynamics say hot travels to cold always. You have heat transfer. Always heat transfer. End rant, thanks, great vid 👍
Aquatuner breaks laws of thermodynamics anyway, so it's fine.
27:11 don't you dare say sorry, it was a very entertaining tutorial.
Exceptionally helpful. I just built a Rodriguez in my base, but the water temp is over 100, so while my dupes can breathe again my plants can't. There was some poor planning when sweeping out materials from the surrounding biomes. This will certainly help with that and with keeping the temp down to begin with. Now to farm some shiny Dreks to get the plastic necessary to build the turbine. Fortunately, you have another amazing tutorial about that too!
Thanks!
This is SO helpful! Thanks very much for this!
Loved it, I really enjoy your tutorials, because we can apply those to different seeds! Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the clear and detailed explanation, this helped a lot. I'm a lot more confident now that I can pull of this build on my own
Thank you!
Thank you Thank you
A lot of videos assume players know the trick and how game mechanic works.
Yours are the first one I found that explain why mixing polluted water and water together.
Great tutorial!
- pro tip with 2 liquids instead of vacuuming the room
- very space efficient setup
- material usage explanation... nice!
Also, I thought that bridge is a mistake, but after some playing around it turns out you NEED to have different length bypass vs aqua tuner path. The reason - The aqua tuner can store 10kg of water and while disabled, it doesn't process the water. So as soon as a warm packet of liquid starts traveling towards the sensor, the aqua tuner turns on and starts processing the liquid inside it. That detail makes the whole liquid packet logic a bit confusing, but .ong story short - it works!
Fantastic format for this video! Thank you for placing the schematics in the beginning!
Thank you for the compliment! Glad you enjoyed.
Brilliant videos bro! Without these I dont know if I would ever have broken into mid game. Thanks!
I watched more than 15 seconds but you still got a like. I love the cute little notes you put in there. 😀
300 hours of gameplay and im still looking for basic tutorial everday
Over 1000 hours myself, and I too constantly look for tutorials.
Very well done!
BUUUUUUT getting super coolant is another monster lol
Sleet wheat farm - I'm not using an AT/turbine to cool mine, although I might switch to that in the future. Instead it's cooled by the output from a cool salt slush geyser, run through a small tepidizer to go up to 2C, desalinated, and then feeds into the sleet wheat farm. In the future overflow will go to the bristle berry farm just beneath, that pipe will be warmed just a bit more for the bristle berries. The sand I get from crushing the salt goes to my cool slush geyser's offgassing chamber where I make cold oxygen and clay for ceramics. I will add a grubfruit farm when I can to make mixed berry pie, one sulfur geyser is more than enough and I got two of those.
Adding comment because the first 15 seconds was helpful - have a great day!
This has been very helpful! I forgot about the liquid bridging - such a good tip
youre my favorite ONI explainer. thanks for your videos!
Wow thanks for this. Seeing it all in steps like that really helped.
This video was the most didactic video about aquatuners that I have ever seen
Gotta love that Thermo aquatuner. So many uses... Nice video!
With the Spaced Out DLC, my current starting planetoid is rich in metal, arbor trees, and pockets of ethanol. The clean water pockets are limited so clean water is kind of scarce, and there's only a few pockets of polluted water near the initial starting biome. There are no reed fibers, or oil on this planet either. So I'm currently without my atmosuits. I can however ranch dreckos for their coats to make my fibers but I need the cool water to produce oxygen. Power isn't a major issue, but oxygen is.
There is however a cool steam vent that isn't too far from my starting base with a big pocket of water, however it was about 165 - 175 degrees in F while dormant. The cool steam vent puts out at about 195 - 205 degrees F, not quite hot enough to boil the water. After analyzing it, I built a set of mesh tiles off to the right of the geyser so that the water it generates can flow down. Then I built a chamber with a set of flood gates to bring about 6 tiles worth of water 2 high by 3 wide into it feeding into another flood gate. This chamber is 12 tiles 2 high by 6 wide. And these two are the lower half of the entire chamber. Above the first chamber right after the pool of water from the cool steam vent I have another room that is the same size as the first chamber and this room becomes sealed off with air locks, and the last chamber is open with mesh tiles for my dupes to walk across and build or adjust things if needed. Yes without my atmosuits they suffered scalding and a few of them even got heat strokes in the initial build.
The reason I had the separate room above the first flood gate and and the second chamber being opened is that I had to put gas pumps in there to create a vacuum to suck out all of that hot air (oxygen-co2)... so that it wouldn't add heat back into the water. I had the pump as far as possible from the main pool. I only have copper, iron and aluminum to work with.
Now to cool this water. I have the aquatuner but I don't have the steam engine as I have not done any material science yet. I need the cool water now because the amount of algae is very low and I was using up the slime fast to turn it into algae. So I didn't have time to do the material science. So how did I cool this water? I used two aquatuners in series one right after another being cooled by 32 - 40 degree ethanol. Just to the right of this tamed steam vent and the chambers I built and up above were two pools of ethanol one right above the other. So I build a big tank chamber to catch all of this ethanol by gravity.
I then pumped the water from the cooler chamber which was about 165 about 2 degrees below the pumps capacity before being damaged into the two aquatuners. Then I used radiant pipes going through the cold ethanol into a storage tank. I was also pumping out this ethanol into another building into another storage tank that's feeding two petroleum burners with a carbon skimmer and water sieve setup.
Now as for the chilled water in the tank I was sending this out and splitting it two ways. The first was going through a long series of conduction panels under the two chambers within the insulated tiles (igneous rock) and them coming back around still through another series of conduction panels just below the first through insulted tiles (granite) and this feeds back into the aquatuners. The other split of the water is feeding into an electrolyzer build (self powering once running) to give me oxygen. I'm not using any automation on my aquatuners as I didn't have the room for it. However, the water feeding my electrolyzer is about a stable 68 degrees, and
Now, this isn't a "permanent" set up and it won't last forever since the heat of the aquatuners and my usage of the radiant pipes is heating up the ethanol near the tuners to about 100 degrees in about 100 cycles, the other side of the ethanol reservoir is about 55-70 degrees. It won't stay cool long and I'm burning so my current use of the acquatuners won't last long, but this was needed for that desperate oxygen. Yeah try doing a build with limited resources and not all technologies unlocked where an aquatuner is a must. This was a challenge. I have 12 dupes, I'm at cycle 224 and finally got enough oxygen to fill the place, but it won't last, but should give me enough time to get some other needed things done. I do have another way to cool the hot water once I break into it and analyze it. There is a cool salt geyser in a cold biome. Not sure if it's producing salt water or brine, but I can pump that and the hot water directly into the same reservoir together then extract the salt out of it.
Yeah, it's been a fun build and I really like this colony. I think they'll strive once I can get a few more things automated. Oh and they're still currently living off of meal lice... but I should now be able to get my arbor tree farm - power production going, and I should be able to start to set up some ranches along with getting my material science started.
Yeah trying to do an aquatuner build without steam engines and gold is a challenge. I can already transport to the second planetoid through the teleporter, but I want this colony to be "stable" before I send anyone over. I need to get my farms and ranches up and running and I need to get my bathrooms and kitchen(s) built. So yeah, the aquatuners are fun to work with, but can definitely be a nuisance with their heat output. I'd say that my current starting planetoid is about 60-70% dug out already. I have about 3 or 4 isolated cold biomes that I haven't tapped into yet, I haven't broken through the top section but I can see space on the far top left corner and I'm dug down to the lava zone on the bottom right corner.
Other colonies, I would have had my farms and ranches up and running at around cycle 50-100... Oh and I had to analyze a tame - close off 2 minor volcanoes too before they started to spill out magma. I love this game!!!
...
Now as for the author of this video, your content, tips and explanations of how to build and use them is really good advice to build off of.
This info was so juicy I need an thermo for myself.
Another good way to cool one of these is to use the polluted water from the bathrooms and send the hot Pwater into a peppernut farm. Or just skip the middleman and stick the aquatuner in the peppernut farm directly. Putting it in a bath of ethanol at the bottom of the farm works good because it will spread the heat much better than air when it evaporates.
Also, putting a thermo sensor in the chill reservoir like a block of ethanol or brine surrounded by the ice. It makes piping a little simpler and does the same thing.
One last thing, using a flow valve at max flow will allow you to make an uninterruptable loop for the aquatuner. I generally stick it outside the steam chamber to save steel, but as long as both input and output pathways are made the same length, it doesn't matter.
Aquatuners are so messy but so worth it
Great to see how to set one up. I always have to redo it because it doesn’t work right the first time
Was wondering if you can do a tutorial on how to set up a conveyor system to cool down material for metal volcano’s I can never get the layout right and it just stops all the time.
This isn't your fault. There is a small bug with the rail sensor where it will not read tiny fractions of material. It ends up backing it up there. Check out the Primus series we did two series ago, there is a igneous rock conveyer system in a volcano tamer that may help until I do a proper tutorial. Thanks for the request and comment!
@@EchoRidgeGaming thanks I will take a look on that seires. once again great work on the work
Awesome tutorial! Thanks a bunch! :)
there was at one point a long time ago an exploit with ethanol instead of water, and no turbine. the system worked based on the difference in heat capacity of the gas and liquid versions of ethanol. i don't know if it still works or not. i saw it being used once on a livestream of the asteroid oassis.
also, one could place an aquatuner near space if they don't have plastic for the turbine. have a water line drip some of the water from a geyser as sacrifice.
Learning this game is really hard. All my systems break and fail lol. I'm trying to get into the correct frame of mind to make sure I follow all the logical requirements instead of just trying to memorize the builds.
I think it's fine to copy popular builds from the community because you learn a lot by just building it and making it actually work in your colony and can tweak it or create your own later.
On the other hand some people like trying to build their own system and fail over and over until they get it right and that's okay too - as long as you have the time and patience!
When I first started playing, I had to make like 30+ colonies before I manage to make any progress, I would last 60 cycles and then 80 cycles and so on. every colony died to some roocky mistake, which is not surprising considering I am a roocky. I think playing around and not getting too attached to my early attempts is the most fun part about learning a new game
Question on the utility of the ice : You put the ice in just to get something very cold and solids radiate heat / cold more efficiently than liquid which are more efficient than gas?
Question of understanding: the metal door is to create a vaccum and make sure the temp shift stops?
Third question: Since the tuner will keep on woring as long as the input is warmer than the automation goal more, could I use it to cool down more than just what you showed in the video (provided I have the right coolant and such)? I would have to do it by order of prority but for general base cooling it could work (I hear the mineral consumption and so on, of course).
Insanly good content. Thank you good sir!
I just put a buffer gate on the aquatuner thermo sensor and set it to 0.5s. This way, the liquid pack currently in the tuner input pipe segment has moved on, but the one in the thermo sensor is just moving in. Also, for loops with nuclear waste, always put a valve after the sensor (buffer gate applies here too) and put the automation in it. Otherwise, if the tuner turns off with nuclear waste inside, you'll get "corrosive element damage" and lose said coolant to the environment.
Awesome explanation! Found your video randomly.
Glad you did and welcome to the channel.
Beaultiful tutorial, thank you so much!
Thanks for the great tutorial! One question though: I built the aquatuner setup just as shown, but the liquid bridge bypass doesn't work. If the liquid gets too cold, the loop just stops. Any ideas why that's the case? Thanks again!
Very good guide, thank you for your work. :)
Amazing video about these handy things,
Sadly my dupes are already dying left and right before I could build these
This helped a lot, thanks!
Can you do a general temperature management tutorial? Particularly in the early to mid game?
There is one thing I do not yet fully understand: Lets use this setup: I want 2 ice tiles, but I use polluted water (-20,6 C freezing point) Do I set the pipe thermal sensor to -20,6 + 12 = -6,6 C (maybe +1 C to be sure) So set it to -5,6 C to prevent the pipe from breaking by freezing the cooling liquid? My confusion is: in the vid you put the sensor at -50 C but if the incoming water is -49 is will get -63 C right? But in the vid its said "set it to the temp you want it to be". Hopefully somebody understands what I am trying to say and can clear this up for me. Thank you Echo for the tutorials they are very helpfull!
How do you send the liquid back through the aquatuner if it's not cold enough? Do I need to set up a second thermal sensor with a liquid shutoff?
In the past I had the dirt leftover from the polluted water solidify into a tile, which breaks it.
I guess the mistake was both to much polluted water and to high temperature? It can probably only form the tile with enough kilos of dirt?
You are probably loading up too much P.Water. Enough kilos and temp will cause this.
I always had a hard time getting my head around temp management until I looked at it the opposite way to everyone else, once I saw that you are just moving heat it made more sense to me, instead of injecting chill, I am moving heat out of the water, through the aquatuner which is moving the heat into the steam room and the steam turbine then deletes it... maybe I am just strange... My mum always said I was backwards
You definitely are not backwards... you are actually seeing it the "right" way.
I'm sure I'm not the first to point it out, but a lot of mystery would be cleared up if people remembered that "chill" is just a lack of heat. -273C is 0 Kelvin. Supercoolant cannot freeze because there is no more heat left in the fluid for the aquatuner to remove.
Heat capacity is the amount of heat required to change a material's temperature. The aquatuner reduces temperature by 14 degrees, which is a different amount of heat depending on the working fluid's heat capacity.
Heat is a measurement of energy. Temperature is a measurement of potential the energey - heat - moves from high to low potential - temperature. Temperature does not move, and temperature is not conducted. Heat does.
ONI is the game smart people play to torture themselves. If you aren’t an engineer the only way to have fun is to accept the inevitability of failure and laugh about it. Anyways I have about 100 hours clocked in and I’m still trying to get to space travel.
In all seriousness I love the game, no matter how many headaches it gives me
And if you are engineer, the only way to have fun is to accept that it pretends to be scientifically accurate, but actually breakes almost all laws of physics. And break them even more.
Engineer here who doesn’t use his degree. I play this game to make my expensive wall art feel useful 😂
Great stuff. Cheers
-271.15c is absolute zero… so freezing supercoolant to .2 is impossible to a level where we would need to redifine absolute zero the point where everything stops. But let’s say that number is just rounded up and physics still works.
Every video showing this uses doors and vacuum pressure are there ways to do this without that?
Seems to be a bug in the game again... Using the "pipe temp sensor", with the pipe going into the aquatuner and also into a "pipe bridge"... There are points where the game prefers going to the bridge, and not sending it into the aquatuner, but the aquatuner runs, "empty", as you watch all the fluid go right past it.
I can't figure out what the issue is, but it worked for days, perfectly. Loading, one day, it just started taking the other path as priority, instead of the priority being the closer aquatuner, which is empty and running. Though, this was the "replacement", as I built one out of copper first, it broke, and it was deconstructed and rebuilt with steel. Which also required rebuilding the pipes. (Which, somehow, might be responsible for the swapped priority bug.)
Hello, I follow this setup but I don't know why but my water is just not hot enough for the steam vent not sure what i am doing wrong
I don't like using polluted water in my steam rooms, polluted water has a evaporation point much higher than regular water, which means while you're busy getting the room up to temperature the polluted water has an opportunity to emit polluted oxygen which is lighter than steam and interferes with the function of the turbine. I'd use brine or saltwater instead.
I'm having the issue where my insulated pipe that is connected directly to the aquatuner output, is getting damaged no matter what I make it out of. Any tips?
The first possible issue that comes to mind, is that you are freezing whatever liquid you are using, causing it to freeze in the pipes.
Pipes usually break due to medium state change. Either liquid freezing solid, or boiling into gas inside the pipe.
Off topic, but why not cool the metal tiles directly instead of making the ice tiles?
I think one dtu is roughly equal to one joule, although I may be wrong.
For some reason my pipes keep cracking how do I fix that?
You coolant is getting too hot or too cold and phase changing.
at 3:28, how can i build a vacuum room like he did at the steam geyser ??
Many different ways. You could fill it with water, close it in, and then pump some of the water out :) The temperature shift plates and automation ensures there is enough water to maintain the needed chill, so when the steam geyser erupts, the steam turns into water instantly.
@@EchoRidgeGaming oh thank you!!!
I was think you might pump the gas out but then I was like 'how did he get rid of the gas pump then once it is closed up 😂
so i am playing in creative mode or sandbox mode just to play and learn the things. i literally followed this exactly but the tuner will not heat up thus not heating the water which wont make steam. the tuner wont even over heat either. please advise
my output pipe is keep getting broken tried granite and ceremic what do i do
I try to use aquatuner with the same schema, but it skips every second blob of coolant and the result looks messy. It is somehow reworked in last 2 years or I have a mod that messes with aquatuner system?
Love it!
I appreciated this tutorial very much!
As a player who takes his sweet time to enjoy watching the progression, I stopped playing ONI couple years back because I could not prevent a heat death. ONI is a game about stressing to survive, true, but this inevitable doom put me off the game entirely - hoping to change that.
I'm still worried about heat and slime-lung (Not sure how far I need to progress to get materials for a viable Aquatuner setup to cool my colony). Not sure if I need to go through (or into) slime biome for viable materials, but never figured out how to decontaminate it (haven't played since they added suits, is that what people are using for it nowadays?)
Use deodorizers to git rid of the polluted oxygen and it will die quickly.
Checking in.
You made the best video on aquatuner mate! I'm having a problem tho.. my loop stopped.. do you know why? And what I could do to fix it?
If I'm understanding correctly the choice to use a layer of pwater below the water was so you wouldn't need so much of either since ONI forces them to stack? But does the pwater turn into steam or does it stay there after the water does? If it stays, wouldn't it off-gas? If it turns into steam is it psteam? Why is this perplexing me lol. One other question, why do your designs vary from just 2 tiles high for the steam chamber to much larger?
The P.water will take longer to turn to steam, but then the water would have already flashed. The pressure is much too high for the p.water to off gas. When the p.water flashes it also turns into regular old steam (but leaves behind a little bit of dirt). I switch it up sometimes jus depending on the specific build.
@@EchoRidgeGaming Thanks! I tried it with 1 row pwater, 1 row water, 2 rows oxygen and the system completely failed due to the oxygen blocking the steam turbine's inputs. I read a comment here from someone else stating the oxygen would get overwritten by the steam but that wasn't the case for me. I now have it working from your video with just 2 rows of water (I prefer the look of the box with no dirt left behind).
One last question, I noticed sometimes you use temp shift plates and sometimes you don't. I can see why you used them to change resin state but what about the steam chambers? It looks like if you don't have radiant piping going through every square you opt for temp shift plates to spread out the chill, is that right?
I was wondering why my aquatuner kept breaking
I use gold for it and not steel thinking it'll be sufficuent
With all of my appreciation of sharing this knowledge, what i do not really like is that those lessons are made in debug mode. The problem with metal refineries in real game is that you are always limited in ore, meaning you are not able to use it most of the time, meaning it would not be that hot enough, meaning you will have not enough energy to run aquatuner constantly, and its own heat is not enough to produce energy... So what you really have to have is the source of EXTREME heat like magma volcano, or source of gas like hydrogen or nature gas vent to be able to produce constant amount energy (pretty limited with gas vents by the way) as an alternative solar panels can be used as well. The rest of other things are pretty limited and resource consumable.
hey there! followed your tutorial to the letter, but Im having problems with the aquatuner since I cant make it out of steel.. only metal ore. I dont understand, was there an update that changed the material of the aquatuner from refined metal to only metal ore?
I'd appreciate any advice
No updates. Maybe you don't have enough steel laying around? Maybe you have a mod making things weird?
I figured it out, I was just being dumb! Thanks for the fast response, and for all your videos!
Very nice tutorial!
Is there a special reason to cool water into ice and have the chill transferred to metal tiles instead of looping the coolant through the metal tiles directly and skip the two water/ice tiles? Is the high heat capacity of the ice important to keep the temperature stable?
Only really gives you flexibility. If we decide to change the temperature of the cooled area, we don't need to adjust the coolant temp. We can then just adjust the temperature of the room and know the coolant still has chill to give. It makes more sense when you are not using super coolant and can only go so cold with early game liquids.
@@EchoRidgeGaming I think he means run it through the leftmost metal tiles, instead of through the ice. You'd still keep the door setup as it is.
Simple and cool
Hi, does anyone know why after building it according to the video the output vent of the Aquatuner seems to break sometimes due to cold damage?
You are freezing the liquid coolant too cold or maybe you didn't make some pipes insulated inside your steam box?
I did the polluted water and normal water stack and it worked great until the polluted water made dirt which then turned to solid sand breaking the whole thing
My ceramic insulated pipes broke like -10c water and 89c enviroment in the steam room what should I do?
You were making your water too cold it seems, so the water cracked the pipes when it turned to ice. Raise your cooling temp. Remember an Aquatuner reduces the temp of liquid by 14 deg C.
thank you to stephanie wisheropp for bullying echo into making more tutorials.
My Aquatuner keeps overheating but I followed every step. It quickly reaches beyond 175 degrees shooting up to 225. Is this because I'm trying to cool to much?
Do you have enough steam? Is the steam turbine running?
Is there a way to run aquatuner without steam turbine, before material study terminal?
Sure you can dump the heat into a big pool of water/polluted water. The turbine is just the easiest way to delete the heat. Or else you are on a clock still. Just moving the heat is a temporary solution.
i watched the whole video cuz im a rebel.
thank you
Nice video. Allow me to nitpick tho.
Don't take this personally, but please, don't show aquatuners with crude oil or petroleum as coolant. I have no idea who started this, I know there are still old guides around from 3 years ago that show that, but please just don't perpetuate it. There's absolutely no reason to use crude oil.
There aren't many reasons to go below -8°C, and you can reach that with polluted water. If you really want to go below that, use ethanol, or if you don't have it (and don't have arbor trees), at least use naphtha.
Also you mention 585 kDTU/s but you should warn that's for water only. If you use super coolant that's twice as much, and if you use crude oil that less than half (all for the same energy consumption).
I been looking at your tutorials and they are the best I found. I am personally having a hard time with water purification if you decide to make a tutorial about that.
Tuesday's (12/14) episde is actually about a water purifier... although it is a massive purification plant and probably not suitable for individual uses.
@@EchoRidgeGaming I check it out, for some reason everytime I filter the polluted water, after the germ sensor actives when there should not be any germs, my water end up with some germs... I will try with 2 sensors to see if that fixes the issue.
@@EchoRidgeGaming pro tip... Don't use sinks, use "hand sanitizers". Also, don't use toilets, stick with outhouses. You will never have "germs" again, in your water.
Simple cure for germs in polluted water... Just use alternating storage tanks that sit in chlorine filled rooms. As one is filling with germ water, the other is sitting until the germs are gone. Then you empty the germ-free tank, before swapping them over. Just a simple shutoff valve is needed, to swap draining when one tank is full, or the other.
Purification is only needed to replace what is consumed. Many things happily consume polluted water... Plants are one of them, deoderizers consume the gasses, which reduces the volume of water for cheap oxygen, etc... Excessive heat turns polluted water into clean water-steam, leaving "dirt" as a byproduct...