So I may have been wrong. I recently dealt with a Jeep that wouldn’t start. And that aux battery was replaced and it started up and ran fine from there. The interesting part is the CEL came on but didn’t pull any codes.
Nice video. We’ve done this on our JLU and JT. Never going back. Side note: we saved the plastic battery terminal caps that come on new batteries to use when doing electrical work. It’s an easy way to isolate the terminals.
Thank you, oh that is a good idea. One of the reason I like posting videos like this getting everyone’s feed back on different things they do them. Thanks for the input!!
Wait - at 14:30 he skips one of the critical parts - how the battery leads go together and how the two are unified! That was one of the biggest questions I had at that point.
I’m glad that I watched your video. Because I was taking the positive cable through the other side under the fuse box. I even bought an extender to splice the cable and make a longer cable lol 😂 Thank you! My alternator ended up being bad. Replaced that and still losing voltage. Main battery is fine so I’m deleting the aux battery because nobody likes the ASS feature anyway lol
You can just flip the positive end upside down and connect to the battery terminal instead of bending the tabs. Sometimes they can break when being bent. Solid video man. Thank you.
I do have a question. Did you leave the AUX negative attached to the main battery negative terminal or disconnect it and safe it off? I realize it is taped down below in the AUX battery box. Wondering if you left it up top on the main.
I just left it. I have been thinking about that lately with all the comments and I am thinking of removing it all together. The biggest reason I didn’t disconnect it is because I didn’t want it just dangling around and didn’t want to fish it back through the other way. So I left it connected
I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
Great video guys, my only concern is, will it drain the main battery now that the auxiliary is bypassed? We just had our 21 Sahara serviced thanks to this damn issue. 600 bux later( addded expense for alignment)..Thanks in advance!
I have been doing this since the video came out and haven’t had any issues. But I do not run the Auto Stop/Start so it hasn’t been an issue for me. Thanks again.
My AUX died at 42,000 miles and I am deleting it in the morning. Got a new main battery also, as the Jeep main battery is dead. Stealership, I mean dealership wanted $650 for AUX battery and labor. They did a free battery test, so I used them to confirm the AUX was bad.
@@sinepari9160 Yeah that is why I call them stealerships. Bunch of crooks. My neighbor owns a Interstate battery store & warehouse so I got an H7 battery from him and deleted the aux. For $200 cash and less than an hour, I was done.
It seems that auxiliary battery (or other) problems are only in the USA. I am french and the batteries fitted to our export Jeep are of quality (AGM technology for both) and in my experience have never posed a problem. I have just changed the auxiliary after more than 5 years of trouble-free service. The main are OK !
I tried taking mine out but then come to find out it wasn’t even there anymore. But my Auto Start/Stop is still working? Is it just running off the main one now?
You'll have to get a taper mini to turn it off. It's running off the main. The aux battery delete is to save the main battery from the vampire shitty aux one.
That’s awesome welcome hahaha I love 4 runners too. They great machines. Even better when you put a solid front axle in. In my opinion. I don’t care what people wheel as long as they get out there and see the world!!
Well I’ve pulled the fuse, disconnected the aux battery negative cable from the main battery, pulled the positive battery cable from the auxiliary battery and connected it to the main battery. I’m still getting the A and start/stop message on my 21 sport unlimited
If I read you correctly, which makes total sense, the aux battery is to run the fan for the A/C at the stop light with the motor off. What you are missing is the aux battery is one of those AGM batteries. They are mean for high cycle discharge/charge use. You are now transfering that useage to the main lead acid battery. Bad JU JU. This is going to shorten the life of the main battery. You might want to upgrade the main battery to an AGM type. But they are not cheap. Most new cars are switching to AGM because of all the computer modules that have to run for a bit after you park at night. Let us know when your main battery goes Kaput.
I believe that is the one that I used on the main battery terminal is the closest to the cabin closest to the fuse box of those three it shouldn’t matter which one you use they’re all connected at that point, but I believe that is the one I used
I’m sorry man I am not sure of the bat. I would assume the process would be the same. Meaning that you take the negative and tape it off and then take the positive from the aux to the main. You may need to extend the positive to reach the main because I could be wrong but I believe the aux batt might be under the seat? Or that mash be the cherokees
I’m wondering if I am affected for not doing this…I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
Today I removed my number 42 fuse and disconnected the negative cable to my main battery. The start stop warning light on my dash went away and now my start stop works better than before. In the 90+ Oklahoma heat my air conditioner wouldn’t blow very cold using the auxiliary battery. Today, the a/c ran with full force when pulling from the main battery. It seems like my ESS is running as it should have from the factory. I think I remember getting 2 to 3 more miles per gallon with ESS. From here I’ll do a main battery upgrade. Any suggestions?
Great video guys.....Might be a Dumb question but ill ask anyway because i have not seen anyone else do this to a GRAND CHEROKEE......... mine is a 2022 trailhawk v6. please advise
Firstly, thanks for the support on the video. Secondly, I did a little research and there is next to nothing on anything for the jeep grand Cherokee on this. I can find the location (under the driver seat) and that’s about it. There are videos out there talking about replacing it but nothing involving a delete. I would imagine it’s the same concept. But I am not an electrical engineer either. So take it for what it’s worth. But even trying to delete from that location would be difficult just given its location. Sorry I couldn’t be anymore help with this. Not sure where you are at but there are some custom 4 wheel drive shops or even a custom car shop that may have more answers than me.
I wish I could’ve seen what you were doing in fast motion to get the cable up in the space where the fuse box is. Did you have to loosen something to get that space?
Dang sorry. No I did not have to loosen anything there was/is a hole just big enough under the front edge of the fuse box to get it through. It should have been a lot easier but it kept getting stuck on a piece of tape that was wrapping the wire. So I would say make sure your cable is clean of debris and also I would send a piece of wire down to hook it or as someone mentioned an old antenna. I think if you do that and take a little more time preparing to get the wire through there it will be a lot easier.
I am currently still using the factory battery. The factory battery should run everything that is needed with the jeep. Now if you are running a lot of lights or winches and other things that draw battery juice then you might need a bigger battery. But just deleting the AUX battery you will not need a bigger battery
Just did it, seems to work, no light on in dash anymore, should I run the negative up from the now gone axillary battery and loop it to the negative terminal on main battery?
I've been driving around all day yesterday the light hadn't come on one time in dealing with that stupid ass light on for 6 months with two new batteries!@@Vikingoff-Road
Absolutely!!!! Was saying I've put both batteries in it 6 months ago and the light never went out till I did your modification! I hate that ESS crap! I believe what it does is just trick the computer to think that both batteries are hooked up and it's really just monitoring the main battery now@@Vikingoff-Road
So I can think of two answers which would be the one they tell the consumer which is it keeps stress of the main battery so it will last longer. But I think the real answer is because by having it and the Auto Stop Start (ASS) gets them a tax discount with the government. But it is dumb no matter what!!
Question- If u remove the aux battery positive cable from the aux battery and attach the aux Battery positive cable to the main battery positive post. Would this bypass the aux battery and fool the ESS into thinking it is attached to the aux battery? I would think everything would work like the factory and no check engine light or messages. (Other than no aux battery in the loop).
That is what I did. So I fed the aux positive up through and connected to the main battery and taped off the negative and have had zero problems with the light coming back on
@@Vikingoff-Road thanks for confirming! I guess this would be a way to bypass the aux battery so it does not become parasitic when it goes bad. But allow everything to operate as normal. Maybe even fool the dealership if under warranty (in case your wife takes it in before u can reverse it lol)
Now u got me thinking, the only draw back I can see with this configuration, is if u have a weak main battery and/or active heavy electrical loads when the ESS is active, then a problem could occur (like a no start) since the aux battery is not removing some of the load from the main battery. But I think this would still be better because u can turn the ESS off. And I assume the system will still monitor the main battery for low voltage issues and provide the necessary CEL and/or messages.
Yes and no, the negative I know you can. The positive I am not 100% sure. But I would think so, as long as nothing is spliced off of it or you connect everything that it is connected to back to the main battery I don’t see why it couldn’t
@@Vikingoff-Road once you disconnect the negative of the aux battery off the main battery.I would think the positive to the aux battery does not do anything anymore because it does not have a ground attached to the battery
You could be correct. This is what I’ve seen other people do from reading articles and watching watching other videos and it has worked great for me this way it’s been however long now trying to think up top my head like three months four months it’s longer than five months 56 months now and I’ve never had an issue with the battery or anything like that
So was you able to delete it this way an everything be Kosher ? Or did you end up having to get a new aux battery ? Im in the same boat right now jeep aux light on in my 2021 Mojave gladiator
So I have put 8,000 miles on since I did this, I have had no lights no problems with the battery as far as voltage goes. I run a fridge in the bed while I am out, with no drain to the battery. So long story short yes for me this worked just perfectly.
Thanks brother I’ll be doing this in the morning you got my Sub thumb up from North Carolina . I’m deleting that f***er I was afraid I’d have to buy a tazer to delete it but your video was awesome keep ‘em coming
Thanks man. To be fair I have a tazer but didn’t make any modifications from the tazer after I did the delete, so I don’t think it matters. But I do have one, just thought you should know. I appreciate the support
That’s interesting I have yet to have that problem. So you must have something still drawing power like a winch or something. Mine has been sitting for a week as I have been away for work. So we will see how much charge it has
i had the same problem but it wasn't my JL that was doing it it was the GPS the dealership put in. look for a box connected to your ODB2 port. 2 mins and wire cutters fixed that.
@@Vikingoff-Road we'll see. My wife is getting her 2023 gladiator today. I've had the eliminator in my wrangler for three years now with no issues. Either way I'm saving your video just in case. Excellent work brother.
I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
Also, might I add, you can disconnect your auto SS by unplugging it. Two plungers located in the front drivers side. (Should be blue and black) disconnect the one on the right. It will disconnect the ASS. 😉
Yeah if you remove it you would definitely need to re install before going to the dealership for service. $600 is a lot but hopefully you won’t have anymore problems
says I'm going to start on the back, drops 2 bolts. I almost started cussing because I seemed like something I did. that's why there's 3 bolts that hold it up there.
Yeah man it’s crazy what they do or think. I am sure part of it is we need to make so they have to bring it back to the shop for work to be done but part of it is also not knowing. It reminds of working in the metal shop with draftsman that never have. And they detail things out that are impossible to build. Simply because they are uneducated in practical matters
The whole start stop BS is a gimmick. Total BS. I have heard the quickest way to disable it is to put a 7pin plug in the trailer hitch connector. Start stop won’t work be cause the system thinks there’s a trailer connected
Oh that is interesting. I could see that working. Also if you don’t wear a seat I know for a fact it won’t work. But I haven’t heard that part about a 7 pin so that’s good to know
Not using your seat belt definitely stops it from working at stops while driving but doesn't do anything for thr remote start not working due to a drained battery or whatnot. From what I understand the small bat. Doesn't last cause of a bad ground that not only drains it but the main bat. As well cause of how they are wired . You'd think with all the fuss & issues someone would figure out how to properly ground it or how to make it function with out draining so we don't need to do this kind of BS !!! RIGHT !! LOL
I can’t say that since I’ve done this, I’ve gone all winter and I use my jeep battery to run my diesel heater when I’m camping at night for 8 to 10 hours and I’ve woken up and been able to start my jeep with no problem
I believe you can also disable it by disconnecting the sensor for the hood. There’s 2 sensors to make sure the hood is closed. One for just the general system, and one to disable the auto start/stop. If you unplug that one (I think drivers side of the 2) then it also disables it.
I am not sure about a JL side of it. To my knowledge that is the only model that came with the eTorque motor. The gladiators came with 3.6 liter pentastar and later with the 3.0 liter eco-diesel. The JL I believe had the ETorque with the 2.0 liter turbo.
Personally I agree still not sure why they do it, to be honest. About the only thing I can think of is that now a days with all the electronic components that are involved with them. They are trying to split the load on the battery.
Great comment and I actually tried to but because of the modifications I had made already they said they wouldn’t warranty it. So this was my option. But good comment. And I agree if your Jeep is stock with no mods then warranty it for sure.
Why do this when the aux battery is only $100 and you only need to swap it out every 5 years? I plan to maybe sell mine one day (at 100k or 300k) and hate to remove something factory designed. Not that I haven't done that before 🤣 but I don't really see the point. I'm at 55k miles, 4 years old and the factory just failed last week. I keep ESS disabled via the tazer so that's prob it hasn't failed yet.
Good question. For me the auxiliary battery is some that I didn’t need. Mine failed at 41k miles. And less than a year of owning. I also have a tazer and do not use the ESS. The reason I went this way is so that I I decided to sell the jeep I could reinstall the aux battery if I chose too. Meaning the only thing that has been taken out is the battery itself. The ground is still taped off in the battery case, and I am also able to reroute the positive back down to the the aux battery if desired. Now while I own the Jeep it is less than a $100 every 40kish miles that I do t have to pay. As it serves no purpose in my case. Thanks for watching
@@Vikingoff-Road Yeah, I see your point. I do turn ESS on from time to time which is nice since mine's a manual so I like to have that option. My main failed last week at 55k and I just swapped them both out. The main H7 850cca and aux, both Duralast Platinum AGM's which have lasted 6+ years in other vehicles here in the cold Colorado winters. I did a 2 week hunting trip up to SD and guess not starting the jeep for 7-8 days was the death blow to the main battery.
I can imagine. Here in Utah we get them colds but not like SD. My main battery has been good. It was the aux battery that failed for me. I will go AGM when this one goes. My JK had an AGM and I loved it.
@@Vikingoff-Road I live in Conifer, CO but travel a LOT, mainly in my truck and not the Jeep. I have a 2020 JLUR and was surprised the stock H7 said AGM on it. It was a stock AGM battery... crazy. I also have the cold weather and towing package so maybe that's why.
It truly is a dumb design. Seems like they could just put a better battery in to begin with and call it good. I am not a fan of the auto start stop anyways. Also I have found if you don’t wear a seatbelt it won’t work either haha
So I may have been wrong. I recently dealt with a Jeep that wouldn’t start. And that aux battery was replaced and it started up and ran fine from there. The interesting part is the CEL came on but didn’t pull any codes.
Nice video. We’ve done this on our JLU and JT. Never going back. Side note: we saved the plastic battery terminal caps that come on new batteries to use when doing electrical work. It’s an easy way to isolate the terminals.
Thank you, oh that is a good idea. One of the reason I like posting videos like this getting everyone’s feed back on different things they do them. Thanks for the input!!
Wait - at 14:30 he skips one of the critical parts - how the battery leads go together and how the two are unified! That was one of the biggest questions I had at that point.
Pro tip. The factory antenna works great as a wire fishing tool. 😁
Dang I wouldn’t have thought about that. I am not sure where mine is anymore but good thought!!!
I gotta go find mine as well. Not sure where I put it. 😂😂
It also has another use, it prevents the top of the roof from rubbing if the underground parking is too low for the Jeep.
I’m glad that I watched your video. Because I was taking the positive cable through the other side under the fuse box. I even bought an extender to splice the cable and make a longer cable lol 😂
Thank you!
My alternator ended up being bad. Replaced that and still losing voltage. Main battery is fine so I’m deleting the aux battery because nobody likes the ASS feature anyway lol
I am glad that it helped!!!
You can just flip the positive end upside down and connect to the battery terminal instead of bending the tabs. Sometimes they can break when being bent. Solid video man. Thank you.
Thanks.. I didn’t even think about flipping it upside down. It is crazy how much you can learn just by the comments section
I do have a question. Did you leave the AUX negative attached to the main battery negative terminal or disconnect it and safe it off? I realize it is taped down below in the AUX battery box. Wondering if you left it up top on the main.
I just left it. I have been thinking about that lately with all the comments and I am thinking of removing it all together. The biggest reason I didn’t disconnect it is because I didn’t want it just dangling around and didn’t want to fish it back through the other way. So I left it connected
I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
@amandab1479 that’s interesting first time I have heard of this I have not experienced this
Thank you for this video, it was very helpful and it solve my problem.
Good. I am glad that I could help!!
Great video guys, my only concern is, will it drain the main battery now that the auxiliary is bypassed? We just had our 21 Sahara serviced thanks to this damn issue. 600 bux later( addded expense for alignment)..Thanks in advance!
I have been doing this since the video came out and haven’t had any issues. But I do not run the Auto Stop/Start so it hasn’t been an issue for me. Thanks again.
My AUX died at 42,000 miles and I am deleting it in the morning. Got a new main battery also, as the Jeep main battery is dead. Stealership, I mean dealership wanted $650 for AUX battery and labor. They did a free battery test, so I used them to confirm the AUX was bad.
It’s a super easy thing to do, and I have had zero issues since I did it. Best of luck to you!!
$650???? WOW. I paid $100 for the battery and had it swapped in 30 mins!
@sinepari9160 I’m not sure how much it is because I just pulled mine
@@sinepari9160 Yeah that is why I call them stealerships. Bunch of crooks. My neighbor owns a Interstate battery store & warehouse so I got an H7 battery from him and deleted the aux. For $200 cash and less than an hour, I was done.
@@sinepari91601300 battery and labor for aux only in CA……
It seems that auxiliary battery (or other) problems are only in the USA. I am french and the batteries fitted to our export Jeep are of quality (AGM technology for both) and in my experience have never posed a problem. I have just changed the auxiliary after more than 5 years of trouble-free service. The main are OK !
That’s awesome that you haven’t had the problem. Wish they could just make them the same all across the world
Good to hear about this
Is that just a matter of better batteries? Or something else?
I tried taking mine out but then come to find out it wasn’t even there anymore. But my Auto Start/Stop is still working? Is it just running off the main one now?
That would be my best guess. Mine will still work too I don’t use it but it will work.
You'll have to get a taper mini to turn it off. It's running off the main. The aux battery delete is to save the main battery from the vampire shitty aux one.
Doing this over the weekend! Saweeet
I would say make sure to read the comments there have been a lot of good things from others too
New to the gladiator scene, coming over from the fourrunner world. I'm freaking loving this thing!
That’s awesome welcome hahaha I love 4 runners too. They great machines. Even better when you put a solid front axle in. In my opinion. I don’t care what people wheel as long as they get out there and see the world!!
Well I’ve pulled the fuse, disconnected the aux battery negative cable from the main battery, pulled the positive battery cable from the auxiliary battery and connected it to the main battery. I’m still getting the A and start/stop message on my 21 sport unlimited
I don’t know if it matters or not, but I didn’t pull the fuse
If I read you correctly, which makes total sense, the aux battery is to run the fan for the A/C at the stop light with the motor off. What you are missing is the aux battery is one of those AGM batteries. They are mean for high cycle discharge/charge use. You are now transfering that useage to the main lead acid battery. Bad JU JU. This is going to shorten the life of the main battery. You might want to upgrade the main battery to an AGM type. But they are not cheap. Most new cars are switching to AGM because of all the computer modules that have to run for a bit after you park at night. Let us know when your main battery goes Kaput.
I believe in the jeeps they went to an AGM battery. But I will let you know when it goes out for sure.
I'm picking up a new 23 Gladiator this PM. I'll ask the service dept.@@Vikingoff-Road
Oh nice yeah for sure. I’d like to know since I forgot to look when I pulled it. But I think there is a comment in here about a stock one being AGM
Did you connect the aux positive to the outter most (closest to the fuse box) part of the main batterys positive?
I believe that is the one that I used on the main battery terminal is the closest to the cabin closest to the fuse box of those three it shouldn’t matter which one you use they’re all connected at that point, but I believe that is the one I used
Can you tell me how to delete the auxiliary battery on a 2018 Jeep Compass
I’m sorry man I am not sure of the bat. I would assume the process would be the same. Meaning that you take the negative and tape it off and then take the positive from the aux to the main. You may need to extend the positive to reach the main because I could be wrong but I believe the aux batt might be under the seat? Or that mash be the cherokees
Wouldn't it be beneficial to hook up the negative as well? Or at least ground to frame
You could. It connects to the main battery so I just left it taped it off. Most beneficial would have been to take it completely off
I’m wondering if I am affected for not doing this…I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
Today I removed my number 42 fuse and disconnected the negative cable to my main battery. The start stop warning light on my dash went away and now my start stop works better than before. In the 90+ Oklahoma heat my air conditioner wouldn’t blow very cold using the auxiliary battery. Today, the a/c ran with full force when pulling from the main battery. It seems like my ESS is running as it should have from the factory. I think I remember getting 2 to 3 more miles per gallon with ESS. From here I’ll do a main battery upgrade. Any suggestions?
That is awesome. I am a big fan of AGM batteries. And for me I would stick with a week known brand and you should be good
Great video guys.....Might be a Dumb question but ill ask anyway because i have not seen anyone else do this to a GRAND CHEROKEE......... mine is a 2022 trailhawk v6. please advise
Firstly, thanks for the support on the video. Secondly, I did a little research and there is next to nothing on anything for the jeep grand Cherokee on this. I can find the location (under the driver seat) and that’s about it. There are videos out there talking about replacing it but nothing involving a delete. I would imagine it’s the same concept. But I am not an electrical engineer either. So take it for what it’s worth. But even trying to delete from that location would be difficult just given its location. Sorry I couldn’t be anymore help with this. Not sure where you are at but there are some custom 4 wheel drive shops or even a custom car shop that may have more answers than me.
I wish I could’ve seen what you were doing in fast motion to get the cable up in the space where the fuse box is. Did you have to loosen something to get that space?
Dang sorry. No I did not have to loosen anything there was/is a hole just big enough under the front edge of the fuse box to get it through. It should have been a lot easier but it kept getting stuck on a piece of tape that was wrapping the wire. So I would say make sure your cable is clean of debris and also I would send a piece of wire down to hook it or as someone mentioned an old antenna. I think if you do that and take a little more time preparing to get the wire through there it will be a lot easier.
@@Vikingoff-Road Thanks! I enjoyed the video! And subscribed to your channel
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the sub!!
So you dont need a bigger battery, just favtorry battery amd by pass the aux?
I am currently still using the factory battery. The factory battery should run everything that is needed with the jeep. Now if you are running a lot of lights or winches and other things that draw battery juice then you might need a bigger battery. But just deleting the AUX battery you will not need a bigger battery
Just did it, seems to work, no light on in dash anymore, should I run the negative up from the now gone axillary battery and loop it to the negative terminal on main battery?
I did not. My negative is still in the box and have still had no issues.
I've been driving around all day yesterday the light hadn't come on one time in dealing with that stupid ass light on for 6 months with two new batteries!@@Vikingoff-Road
@tomc9152 it sounds like this helped? Your comment is hard to understand. I hope this helped
Absolutely!!!! Was saying I've put both batteries in it 6 months ago and the light never went out till I did your modification! I hate that ESS crap! I believe what it does is just trick the computer to think that both batteries are hooked up and it's really just monitoring the main battery now@@Vikingoff-Road
@tomc9152 oh good I am glad it helped. That light is really frustrating! Happy it helped
What’s the point of an aux battery if it kills the car when either one is dead?
So I can think of two answers which would be the one they tell the consumer which is it keeps stress of the main battery so it will last longer. But I think the real answer is because by having it and the Auto Stop Start (ASS) gets them a tax discount with the government. But it is dumb no matter what!!
@@Vikingoff-Road Auto Stop/Start is a con-job from Big Battery
@@garonkinghaha yes
Question- If u remove the aux battery positive cable from the aux battery and attach the aux Battery positive cable to the main battery positive post.
Would this bypass the aux battery and fool the ESS into thinking it is attached to the aux battery?
I would think everything would work like the factory and no check engine light or messages. (Other than no aux battery in the loop).
That is what I did. So I fed the aux positive up through and connected to the main battery and taped off the negative and have had zero problems with the light coming back on
@@Vikingoff-Road thanks for confirming! I guess this would be a way to bypass the aux battery so it does not become parasitic when it goes bad. But allow everything to operate as normal. Maybe even fool the dealership if under warranty (in case your wife takes it in before u can reverse it lol)
@@Vikingoff-Road one of the best videos on this as well.
Great comments too!
Absolutely!! And thank you! Everyone in the comments have been amazing with information and things I never thought about
Now u got me thinking, the only draw back I can see with this configuration, is if u have a weak main battery and/or active heavy electrical loads when the ESS is active, then a problem could occur (like a no start) since the aux battery is not removing some of the load from the main battery.
But I think this would still be better because u can turn the ESS off.
And I assume the system will still monitor the main battery for low voltage issues and provide the necessary CEL and/or messages.
can those wires not just be completely removed to clean things up?
Yes and no, the negative I know you can. The positive I am not 100% sure. But I would think so, as long as nothing is spliced off of it or you connect everything that it is connected to back to the main battery I don’t see why it couldn’t
@@Vikingoff-Road once you disconnect the negative of the aux battery off the main battery.I would think the positive to the aux battery does not do anything anymore because it does not have a ground attached to the battery
You could be correct. This is what I’ve seen other people do from reading articles and watching watching other videos and it has worked great for me this way it’s been however long now trying to think up top my head like three months four months it’s longer than five months 56 months now and I’ve never had an issue with the battery or anything like that
@@Vikingoff-Road same here. I am just trying to figure out how it all works. Great video you made Thanks
Voodoo magic had been my best guess lol thanks
So was you able to delete it this way an everything be Kosher ? Or did you end up having to get a new aux battery ? Im in the same boat right now jeep aux light on in my 2021 Mojave gladiator
So I have put 8,000 miles on since I did this, I have had no lights no problems with the battery as far as voltage goes. I run a fridge in the bed while I am out, with no drain to the battery. So long story short yes for me this worked just perfectly.
Thanks brother I’ll be doing this in the morning you got my Sub thumb up from North Carolina . I’m deleting that f***er I was afraid I’d have to buy a tazer to delete it but your video was awesome keep ‘em coming
Thanks man. To be fair I have a tazer but didn’t make any modifications from the tazer after I did the delete, so I don’t think it matters. But I do have one, just thought you should know. I appreciate the support
Thanks glad I could help out
No Sir, Thank you. couldn't have done it with out your help. That is why you were tagged in thee description my guy
I did the same but my jeep sometimes discharges if I leave it like that.
I don't know if I should take it to service
That’s interesting I have yet to have that problem. So you must have something still drawing power like a winch or something. Mine has been sitting for a week as I have been away for work. So we will see how much charge it has
i had the same problem but it wasn't my JL that was doing it it was the GPS the dealership put in. look for a box connected to your ODB2 port. 2 mins and wire cutters fixed that.
More good information
DO YOU STILL LEAVE THE #42 FUSE IN ADTER THIS DELETE? IVE SEEN SOME VIDEOS WHERE PEOPLE ARE PULLING THE FUSE..
I have left mine in
Pull it. It turns off the ess nonsense completely. Then you can just remove the negative that goes to the aux batt. Tape and tie off. Done
@ronm7781 good information. Thanks
Does remote start still work?
Yes it does for me
Did you have a Tazer installed when you did this procedure or did you do it without one?
Yes I did have a tazer installed when I did this
@@Vikingoff-Road Thanks for sharing this video and your response 👍
Yeah absolutely. Hope it helped
Do you need a bigger main battery ?? Or just straight up by pass?
Straight up bypass will work great
did the exact same thing and after a while light came back on mine?
Dang that sucks. I’m sorry to hear that
@@Vikingoff-Road did ur turn on ro or stayed off?
Mine has not turned back on. So hopefully it continues to not turn back on. Maybe your main battery is no good?
@@Vikingoff-Road thanks for ur video
Your welcome. Thanks for watching hope it helped a little
Stop start eliminator works too.
It work for the stopping that action but would it work for getting the light on the dash to stop blinking? I honestly don’t know
@@Vikingoff-Road we'll see. My wife is getting her 2023 gladiator today. I've had the eliminator in my wrangler for three years now with no issues. Either way I'm saving your video just in case. Excellent work brother.
Thank you and I hope it works out perfectly for you!!
I did this exact procedure and now I get this annoying buzz somewhere around 60-70 mph. The noise increases with speed once it starts. Has anyone experienced this, if so, how?
This is wild I haven’t experienced or know of anyone who has experienced this. I am sorry to hear this
Couldn’t one then just replace that auxiliary battery?
Yes you could just replace it.
Why not just remove the negative cable completely?
Haha, honestly it never even occurred to me to disconnect it completely until right now when you asked. Now I feel like I need to lol
But don’t u also loose ur E torque about 35 useful HP
I’ve read that it disables the remote start feature. Is this true?
I can’t speak for anyone else but my remote start works perfectly
Also, might I add, you can disconnect your auto SS by unplugging it. Two plungers located in the front drivers side. (Should be blue and black) disconnect the one on the right. It will disconnect the ASS. 😉
This is good information also. Thank you!!
Terrible advice as that causes a fault light to come on.
@MrBoomStick makes sense. I didn’t do this. But thought it was an interesting idea. If it causes a fault light on the dash then I am out.
@@Vikingoff-Road Deleting the aux battery the way you did is the only proper way to do it.
@MrBoomStick thank you for that. To me it made the most sense
I paid $600 for my 2 and they said I can’t remove it at this time do to warranty
Yeah if you remove it you would definitely need to re install before going to the dealership for service. $600 is a lot but hopefully you won’t have anymore problems
says I'm going to start on the back, drops 2 bolts. I almost started cussing because I seemed like something I did. that's why there's 3 bolts that hold it up there.
Yeah I was pretty sure I was gonna cut that out but then said nah ima leave it in
@@Vikingoff-Road nah it was entertaining glad it was left in.
Glad it was enjoyable
Beards, Ryobi tools, rachating wrenches, removing the aux battery... INSTANT Subscribe and bell notifications! Yall my kinda people!
Hell yeah brotha thanks!!!
I hope that's out I warranty if we take shortcuts.It's gonna come back and bite you
It wasn’t but it is now lol
Yeah it wasn’t out of warranty but it is now with the miles. That is the hard way of taking the aux battery out?
2.0 or 3.6?
3.6
Jeeps are awesome but wtf you Jeep engineers thinking. Thank you for the video how-to.
Yeah man it’s crazy what they do or think. I am sure part of it is we need to make so they have to bring it back to the shop for work to be done but part of it is also not knowing. It reminds of working in the metal shop with draftsman that never have. And they detail things out that are impossible to build. Simply because they are uneducated in practical matters
The whole start stop BS is a gimmick. Total BS. I have heard the quickest way to disable it is to put a 7pin plug in the trailer hitch connector. Start stop won’t work be cause the system thinks there’s a trailer connected
Oh that is interesting. I could see that working. Also if you don’t wear a seat I know for a fact it won’t work. But I haven’t heard that part about a 7 pin so that’s good to know
Not using your seat belt definitely stops it from working at stops while driving but doesn't do anything for thr remote start not working due to a drained battery or whatnot. From what I understand the small bat. Doesn't last cause of a bad ground that not only drains it but the main bat. As well cause of how they are wired . You'd think with all the fuss & issues someone would figure out how to properly ground it or how to make it function with out draining so we don't need to do this kind of BS !!! RIGHT !! LOL
I can’t say that since I’ve done this, I’ve gone all winter and I use my jeep battery to run my diesel heater when I’m camping at night for 8 to 10 hours and I’ve woken up and been able to start my jeep with no problem
I believe you can also disable it by disconnecting the sensor for the hood. There’s 2 sensors to make sure the hood is closed. One for just the general system, and one to disable the auto start/stop. If you unplug that one (I think drivers side of the 2) then it also disables it.
@nateshelton4584 oh that is good to know also. I haven’t heard this before. That would make things so much easier
But aren’t u also loosing ur extra Etorque 75 horsepower
I am not sure about a JL side of it. To my knowledge that is the only model that came with the eTorque motor. The gladiators came with 3.6 liter pentastar and later with the 3.0 liter eco-diesel. The JL I believe had the ETorque with the 2.0 liter turbo.
That is defensive a negative cable 😂
Haha
That aux battery was the dumbest engineering idea for the Jeep Wrangler, followed closely by the stop/start feature.
Personally I agree still not sure why they do it, to be honest. About the only thing I can think of is that now a days with all the electronic components that are involved with them. They are trying to split the load on the battery.
@@Vikingoff-Road That, and a weak attempt to improve mpg numbers.
You are probably not wrong. I wondering if they get a discount or a kick back from Uncle Sam to do it that way
That's the hard way of doing it
It’s the only way I was aware of after doing my research
Do not do this and put under warranty.They will not honor you
Great comment and I actually tried to but because of the modifications I had made already they said they wouldn’t warranty it. So this was my option. But good comment. And I agree if your Jeep is stock with no mods then warranty it for sure.
Why do this when the aux battery is only $100 and you only need to swap it out every 5 years? I plan to maybe sell mine one day (at 100k or 300k) and hate to remove something factory designed. Not that I haven't done that before 🤣 but I don't really see the point. I'm at 55k miles, 4 years old and the factory just failed last week. I keep ESS disabled via the tazer so that's prob it hasn't failed yet.
Good question. For me the auxiliary battery is some that I didn’t need. Mine failed at 41k miles. And less than a year of owning. I also have a tazer and do not use the ESS.
The reason I went this way is so that I I decided to sell the jeep I could reinstall the aux battery if I chose too. Meaning the only thing that has been taken out is the battery itself. The ground is still taped off in the battery case, and I am also able to reroute the positive back down to the the aux battery if desired.
Now while I own the Jeep it is less than a $100 every 40kish miles that I do t have to pay. As it serves no purpose in my case.
Thanks for watching
@@Vikingoff-Road Yeah, I see your point. I do turn ESS on from time to time which is nice since mine's a manual so I like to have that option. My main failed last week at 55k and I just swapped them both out. The main H7 850cca and aux, both Duralast Platinum AGM's which have lasted 6+ years in other vehicles here in the cold Colorado winters. I did a 2 week hunting trip up to SD and guess not starting the jeep for 7-8 days was the death blow to the main battery.
I can imagine. Here in Utah we get them colds but not like SD. My main battery has been good. It was the aux battery that failed for me. I will go AGM when this one goes. My JK had an AGM and I loved it.
@@Vikingoff-Road I live in Conifer, CO but travel a LOT, mainly in my truck and not the Jeep. I have a 2020 JLUR and was surprised the stock H7 said AGM on it. It was a stock AGM battery... crazy. I also have the cold weather and towing package so maybe that's why.
I have the tow package and cold weather package I may have to double check mine now. I didn’t look when I had it out.
Look at that big beautiful beard. 😅
Yeah it’s a little different now eh!!
In Jamaica you would be called "Sweet Beard Man" lol!
Haha that is awesome!! It would be an honor to be called that
What an idiotic design idea that the design team from FCA/Stellantis came up with! I have had to replace both my batteries twice on a 2018 JLU!!!!
It truly is a dumb design. Seems like they could just put a better battery in to begin with and call it good. I am not a fan of the auto start stop anyways. Also I have found if you don’t wear a seatbelt it won’t work either haha
Same 2 times!