This is really great.... this guy speaks very clearly, explains all in a very detail way with his very calm and pleasant way, GREAT VIDEO, I am looking forward for more videos from you, thumbs UP for you !
Cosmin, look, I appreciate when I hear a real man that loves e39 and helps others to keep it top shape, I take my hat off of my head and say I am grateful to you, sir
Good job man.. but a lil tip for ya.. before mounting back the fuel rail and replacing the regulator you MUST lubricate the o`rings @ the fuel injectors and at the pressure regulator.. they are not meant to be `Dry` mounted.. they tend to tear when dry.. despite of that, keep up with the good work man! Wrench every day...
Thank you! I haven't thought about that... Just so you know, this is my own car I'm playing with :) Not breaking anyone's car. I'll remember your advice next time.
Great video, helped me a lot! Thank you! I must say though, releasing the pressure from the fuel-rail and then re-pressurizing it did not make too much sense. Just for taking off the rail you don't need to depressurize it.
I know im asking randomly but does anybody know a method to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me.
@Oscar Bruce I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
im in the process of doing this to my 2000 320. for two years now ive been chasing down and throwing parts at a fuel smell after engine shutdown. first i figured, the car is 20 year old, so its got to be the injectors. changed all of them at a 100 bucks each. fuel smell went down but was still there. then the stealer in kobe told me it was the canister purge valve. changed it, still smelled. then a few days ago, i finally saw a leak at the fpr. fortunately, mine is at the front of the engine, so I may not have to remove the fuel rail. at least i hope
@@Supraifyification if you dont see it on the fuel rail, then its on the fuel filter. early e46s had it on the fuel rail, then for later models, its was incorporated on the fuel filter. I think. hope im not talking out my anus. If im wrong, someone please correct me.
Question an important one: Is this fuel pressure regulator exactly the same on Vanos1 and Vanos2 M52 engines? I am in need of ordering one(no info provided from the supplier) Thanks!! - Very nice presentation in every aspect, camera,voice, steps!!
Hello I start my car in the morning, no problem, but 5-6 hours after stopping, it barely starts, sometimes it seems like it won't start. why does he do this? For thank you
I have the same engine, I changed 3 fuel pumps in 1 year. Each pump runs for 2-3 months and then as if it is damping and stops working, I checked the filter and it is good, but the mechanic I don't know why he didn't check this valve. Do you think the problem is in this regulator
That's odd... If you look at the fuel rail, just in front of the engine, there's a valve with a metal cap, just like the ones on the wheels. You can remove that cap and find the release valve (just like the valves in the wheels). You can then measure the fuel pressure with the key on (engine stopped and engine running). It should be around 3.5bars. If it's way to low the FPR is sending most of the fuel back to the tank, if is too high is not sending it back at al (either FPR broken or return line clogged, if that's possible...). Either situation would be bad for the pump, I assume. But I think you would also notice it in the way your engine runs. Next time you remove the pump check to see if there's dirt or something in the tank. Also cut open the fuel filter and look for that dirt. Measure the voltage on the pump as well, loose connections... Do you replace with the same brand pump? Maybe they are just crap :|
@@CosminRotaru Yesterday I checked the filter that it was not clogged, when I took out the filter hose the petrol came out with too much pressure the same and when I took out the hose from the petrol pump the pressure was high. It is stopped somewhere, which does not allow the normal flow of gasoline. The two pumps I replaced were Magneti Marelli Italian but I think they are of lower quality. This yesterday I put it in is an original BMW but again the engine is not working properly it is choking and not receiving petrol. Thanks a lot for the help
@@alensadiku3220 try this: with the key on (no need to start the engine. just key on so that the pump starts) remove the vacuum port under the FPR and check if there are leaks from the FPR through that port (see at minute 3:10). Then check again with the engine started. With the engine started (idling) I think you should be able to feel vacuum from that small rubber pipe. Try and get a vacuum gauge - connect it at the valve on the fuel rail and check the pressure as described at the end of my video.
Any idea what could be causing these codes ? P0170(fuel trim) P0161(heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2) P0141(heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2) P1189(bank 2 sensor 1) P0173(fuel trim bank 2) P1188(fuel control bank 1 sensor 1)
Not really... Can you check some real time data? I'd start with the oxygen sensors. See if you can find the schematics - check if those two sensors share the 12v wire. Maybe that one is broken. In any case, the fuel trim errors might be the result of something wrong with the oxygen sensors.
Hi! Maybe check if it holds pressure with key off. Remove the key and try to release the pressure in the system using the valve at the end of the fuel rail after a few minutes. I'm not sure how long should the system stay pressurized after removing the key, but I assume after 10 minutes you should still have pressure. Then if your pump keeps priming because it cannot build pressure, I guess the system won't have pressure after a few minutes after turning off the pump. Is there a chance you have air in the system? Maybe you run the car until you run out of gas? Are you actually able to start the engine? Does it run?
That sounds strange. I am using realoem com site to figure out the part numbers so I'm sure I always get the right part. Maybe for your car is different but on mine the vacuum is necessary to regulate the fuel pressure. At idle the vacuum is high and that keeps the diaphragm on the FPR opened, allowing for the extra fuel pressure (not needed at idle) to release back into the fuel tank. On acceleration the vacuum decreases... maybe I'm not giving the proper explanation here but the point is: the FPR cannot work without vacuum. If I'd remove the vacuum line I'd have maximum pressure the pump can provide at all times. Not good...
Cosmin Rotaru the fuel filter/regulator is one unit combined and sits inside the fuel tank I'm guessing the vacuum port is overflow and empties into the tank? Algebra I have no clue
BTW.. still trying to figure out why I'm long cranking because I've changed everything. Next I gotta check if there's a fuel leak on the injectors and then change the throttle body gasket because I smell gas at start up
it sounds like you have a different setup there. On my car (E39 from 1996) I have the pump on the fuel tank, the filter under the driver side somewhere and then the regulator at the fuel rail...
I suspected it doesn't keep the proper pressure I think. I don't remember exactly. I don't think it was broken. But it was cheap anyway and I never changed its before. ( is was old)
Hi. You should have a schrader valve on the fuel rail at the front of the engine. Put the key in contact - that should start the pump and create pressure on the line. Push the pin on the valve to see if fuel comes out. Be aware there should be pressure! Have a rag on/ around the valve. Notice that the fuel pressure regulator is located AFTER the rail. Or at the end of it. Regardless of how bad it is I don't think it can prevent the engine from starting. It would only make it run badly... Please be aware I'm not a professional mechanic! I suggest you talk to one.
Cosmin Rotaru it’s okay i changed it I was underneath infront of the fuel pump filter apparently they made three versions of this one where it’s attached to the fuel rail one where it comes as one with the fuel filter and for my 328ci it was in the same panel as the fuel filter just right infront of it
This is really great.... this guy speaks very clearly, explains all in a very detail way with his very calm and pleasant way, GREAT VIDEO, I am looking forward for more videos from you, thumbs UP for you !
Thank you!
Cosmin, look, I appreciate when I hear a real man that loves e39 and helps others to keep it top shape, I take my hat off of my head and say I am grateful to you, sir
Good job man.. but a lil tip for ya.. before mounting back the fuel rail and replacing the regulator you MUST lubricate the o`rings @ the fuel injectors and at the pressure regulator.. they are not meant to be `Dry` mounted.. they tend to tear when dry.. despite of that, keep up with the good work man! Wrench every day...
Thank you! I haven't thought about that... Just so you know, this is my own car I'm playing with :) Not breaking anyone's car. I'll remember your advice next time.
What type of lubricant do you need?
@@thrty8street Petroleum jelly works fine
I like your video. You take your time to speak and explain what you do. Thank you
Thank you for the nice comment!
Great video, very clearly done. Much appreciated!
all videos should be made like this one. clear, not too l;ong and to the point. liked and suscribed..
Great video, helped me a lot! Thank you!
I must say though, releasing the pressure from the fuel-rail and then re-pressurizing it did not make too much sense. Just for taking off the rail you don't need to depressurize it.
Just to have some control and catch the spill instead of letting it spray randomly 🙂
I know im asking randomly but does anybody know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me.
@Simon Kash Instablaster =)
@Oscar Bruce I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Oscar Bruce It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass :D
im in the process of doing this to my 2000 320. for two years now ive been chasing down and throwing parts at a fuel smell after engine shutdown. first i figured, the car is 20 year old, so its got to be the injectors. changed all of them at a 100 bucks each. fuel smell went down but was still there. then the stealer in kobe told me it was the canister purge valve. changed it, still smelled. then a few days ago, i finally saw a leak at the fpr. fortunately, mine is at the front of the engine, so I may not have to remove the fuel rail. at least i hope
Good luck!
Hello, when u say 2000 320 i assume that it has the m52 TU and not the older M52. i have wondered if its the same on the TU engine?
@@Supraifyification if you dont see it on the fuel rail, then its on the fuel filter. early e46s had it on the fuel rail, then for later models, its was incorporated on the fuel filter. I think. hope im not talking out my anus. If im wrong, someone please correct me.
Thanks
Great description ❤
Question an important one: Is this fuel pressure regulator exactly the same on Vanos1 and Vanos2 M52 engines? I am in need of ordering one(no info provided from the supplier)
Thanks!!
- Very nice presentation in every aspect, camera,voice, steps!!
Hi! I use realoem.com to find the part codes. I always find the right part that way. Thank you for the nice words! 🙂
@@CosminRotaru many thanks. I will do the same!
Keep driving 👏
What are the symptoms of a bad fuel pressure regulator?? How did the car feel with the new part ??
Well done video 👍
Where goes the vacuum line? From regulator to Where ?
Nice job thanks.
Hello
I start my car in the morning, no problem, but 5-6 hours after stopping, it barely starts, sometimes it seems like it won't start. why does he do this? For thank you
Mine is located at the front of the engine so hopefully I don't need to remove the rail
Hi , I have same your BMW I checked the regulator but i don't find the small pip and I don't here Air noise thanks
I have the same engine, I changed 3 fuel pumps in 1 year. Each pump runs for 2-3 months and then as if it is damping and stops working, I checked the filter and it is good, but the mechanic I don't know why he didn't check this valve. Do you think the problem is in this regulator
That's odd... If you look at the fuel rail, just in front of the engine, there's a valve with a metal cap, just like the ones on the wheels. You can remove that cap and find the release valve (just like the valves in the wheels). You can then measure the fuel pressure with the key on (engine stopped and engine running). It should be around 3.5bars. If it's way to low the FPR is sending most of the fuel back to the tank, if is too high is not sending it back at al (either FPR broken or return line clogged, if that's possible...). Either situation would be bad for the pump, I assume. But I think you would also notice it in the way your engine runs.
Next time you remove the pump check to see if there's dirt or something in the tank. Also cut open the fuel filter and look for that dirt.
Measure the voltage on the pump as well, loose connections...
Do you replace with the same brand pump? Maybe they are just crap :|
@@CosminRotaru Yesterday I checked the filter that it was not clogged, when I took out the filter hose the petrol came out with too much pressure the same and when I took out the hose from the petrol pump the pressure was high. It is stopped somewhere, which does not allow the normal flow of gasoline. The two pumps I replaced were Magneti Marelli Italian but I think they are of lower quality. This yesterday I put it in is an original BMW but again the engine is not working properly it is choking and not receiving petrol.
Thanks a lot for the help
@@alensadiku3220 try this: with the key on (no need to start the engine. just key on so that the pump starts) remove the vacuum port under the FPR and check if there are leaks from the FPR through that port (see at minute 3:10). Then check again with the engine started. With the engine started (idling) I think you should be able to feel vacuum from that small rubber pipe. Try and get a vacuum gauge - connect it at the valve on the fuel rail and check the pressure as described at the end of my video.
@@CosminRotaru I solved the problem, the pressure regulator was faulty. Thank you for help.
@@alensadiku3220 so a 10$ piece of crap broke 3 pumps... That's unfortunate..
Thinking about changing this aswell, any noticeable difference in fuel economy or power?
Thanks in regard
I changed it because it was old and easy to change and cheap...
Any idea what could be causing these codes ?
P0170(fuel trim)
P0161(heater circuit bank 2 sensor 2)
P0141(heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2)
P1189(bank 2 sensor 1)
P0173(fuel trim bank 2)
P1188(fuel control bank 1 sensor 1)
Not really... Can you check some real time data? I'd start with the oxygen sensors. See if you can find the schematics - check if those two sensors share the 12v wire. Maybe that one is broken. In any case, the fuel trim errors might be the result of something wrong with the oxygen sensors.
AHHHH the locking ring... no picture of it or it being removed.
I mentioned it at 1:50 but I should have shown it in a close up image indeed... 😐
My fuel pump keep priming when the key is on position 2 (ignition), is it because of the FPR?
Hi! Maybe check if it holds pressure with key off. Remove the key and try to release the pressure in the system using the valve at the end of the fuel rail after a few minutes. I'm not sure how long should the system stay pressurized after removing the key, but I assume after 10 minutes you should still have pressure. Then if your pump keeps priming because it cannot build pressure, I guess the system won't have pressure after a few minutes after turning off the pump.
Is there a chance you have air in the system? Maybe you run the car until you run out of gas?
Are you actually able to start the engine? Does it run?
Hello, what are the symptoms of damage to this regulator? Is there such a piece in the E39 540i?
Yes there is, if you message me on Instagram @Dima540i I can help you
My engine on my 540i blew cuz of it, it wa Dumping fuel in my engine
Salut. La un e39 520d nu se tureaza mai mult de 2000 și nu merge mai mult de 80/h ce ar putea fi? Măcar câteva indicii
Salut! Nu sunt de meserie dar pare că motorul merge într-un regim de avarie (avarie). Nu ai niciun martor aprins in bord? Poate nu intra turbina...
I bought a fuel pressure regulator online but the vacuum port is missing.. Out still works fine but is this an upgrade or modified cheap nock off?
That sounds strange. I am using realoem com site to figure out the part numbers so I'm sure I always get the right part. Maybe for your car is different but on mine the vacuum is necessary to regulate the fuel pressure. At idle the vacuum is high and that keeps the diaphragm on the FPR opened, allowing for the extra fuel pressure (not needed at idle) to release back into the fuel tank. On acceleration the vacuum decreases... maybe I'm not giving the proper explanation here but the point is: the FPR cannot work without vacuum. If I'd remove the vacuum line I'd have maximum pressure the pump can provide at all times. Not good...
Cosmin Rotaru the fuel filter/regulator is one unit combined and sits inside the fuel tank I'm guessing the vacuum port is overflow and empties into the tank? Algebra I have no clue
BTW.. still trying to figure out why I'm long cranking because I've changed everything. Next I gotta check if there's a fuel leak on the injectors and then change the throttle body gasket because I smell gas at start up
it sounds like you have a different setup there. On my car (E39 from 1996) I have the pump on the fuel tank, the filter under the driver side somewhere and then the regulator at the fuel rail...
@@CosminRotaru why did u change the fuel pressure regulator??
Why did u change the pressure regulator???
I suspected it doesn't keep the proper pressure I think. I don't remember exactly. I don't think it was broken. But it was cheap anyway and I never changed its before. ( is was old)
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator on my car now it doesn’t start, any ideas?
Not at all. Not enough info.
Cosmin Rotaru that’s all I did now it doesn’t start, I might get a gauge and test fuel pressure, I’m trying to test for ignition
Hi. You should have a schrader valve on the fuel rail at the front of the engine. Put the key in contact - that should start the pump and create pressure on the line. Push the pin on the valve to see if fuel comes out. Be aware there should be pressure! Have a rag on/ around the valve.
Notice that the fuel pressure regulator is located AFTER the rail. Or at the end of it. Regardless of how bad it is I don't think it can prevent the engine from starting. It would only make it run badly...
Please be aware I'm not a professional mechanic! I suggest you talk to one.
Why do you change was there something wrong with your car ?
I had crossed the fuel lines that's why it didn't start. Just old one so replaced it
Is this the same on a 2000 328ci
Sorry, I don't know...
Cosmin Rotaru it’s okay i changed it I was underneath infront of the fuel pump filter apparently they made three versions of this one where it’s attached to the fuel rail one where it comes as one with the fuel filter and for my 328ci it was in the same panel as the fuel filter just right infront of it
@@Treyh4u well you were lucky you didn't have the all-in-one unit then 😁
Cosmin Rotaru I would have been so mad I ordered it from rock auto by vehicle
Is the procedure the same for the m5?
B BB sorry, I don't know...
Hello where are you from
Hi! I'm from Romania.