EXCELLENT CHANNEL! Excellent info, especially for us non mechanics who are trying to diagnose and fix our cars when a REAL mechanic/garage can't! Priceless! Thank you! If anyone wants to comment...I just had the fuel pump replaced when it failed and left me sitting, mid drive. But when I got my 03 Buick Rendezvous back from the shop, it now just cuts out while driving. (Like it's not getting gas) If I let off the gas when it starts to happen, many times it will recover without shutting off. If I'm going up a hill and I continue to try to get up the hill by lightly giving gas as its slowing down, it WILL backfire. I returned it to the garage because interior lights were coming on and off while driving all the while this continued, thinking maybe they crossed the wires on the fuel pump upon installation. (Now these symptoms only happen AFTER it is warmed up. Never happens cold. Well the mechanic said it was the wiring harness and apparently replaced that. They said it was fixed (no charge 🙂) Picked it back up and same symptoms continue. Spitting sputtering cutting out and shutting off. (Not the battery, but the engine , losing power steering and brakes if I can't get it to "recover" by fanning the gas, or throwing it into neutral and revving.) Now I'm thinking gas pressure sensor? Any comments greatly appreciated!! Thanks yall, from this southern girl to....you? Lol) I should add recently before this I had a different shop remove my catalytic convertor (without my permission!) When I took it in to have 02 sensors replaced. A week after that, the fuel pump went up and when I got it out of the garage, that's when these new symptoms appeared. The adventure continues....🥴
You left out an important one, when the regulator fails to go closed all the way it fails to maintain higher pressure during heavier fuel demand under load, resulting in loss of power.
My Malibu "stutters" in acceleration. The only code throwing was the fuel pump regulator sensor, but that doesnt match my only symptom. I have 0 other symptoms other than the stutter and code. If I let off acceleration, it stops. It stutters again as I accelerate 50% of the time, until I reach a steady 60-80 mph and then it's smooth as silk. No stutters on down shifts. Anyone? 2015 Chevy Malibu ltz turbo
Bingo! 2005 Ford Explorer V6 4.0L. Running fine one day and wouldn't stay running the next. Disco'd the MAF sensor (after cleaning it failed) and it started right up. R2'd and now it runs even smoother than before. Thanks!
My sisters 08 Avalon had hard starting. TK changed the fuel pump...why they never replaced the FPR on the side of the pump...beats me. TK said it's not the FPR. Not getting anywhere with TK, I UA-camd and changed it myself....not that hard. I replaced the FPR..problem solved. Thanks to all those UA-camrs out there !!!
Did you also smell gas? I just bought an 03 and it starts hard, idles rough if not give gas for a minute, then also smell of gas for about 30 seconds after car starts. Also feel strange vibrations while at idle.
@@fakejeepman06 I would suggest changing the plugs..wires and all the coil packs. Go on Amazon and you can buy everything as a kit. I had the same issue,with my 02 4runner...did what I mentioned...problem solved.
Well explains why I have put 2 sets of plugs and wires in my truck in the past 6 months. Don’t have to worry abt the cats tho. They’re in some junk yard somewhere😂 but I really appreciate this video tho. Wish I knew about this possible problem sooner!!
I stumbled on this today and every sign matches my car🤣😭 for the past 3 months I've seen the gas station more than my parents 😅. I'm away from my car now but when I'm back I'll come back to this video if it works out to thank you. All the symptoms starting from poor fuel milage match my symptoms. By the way its a 4afe engine on an ae 110 1998 corolla
I’m trying to trouble shoot a grand marquis man! By watching this I now know what’s wrong with my personal truck ford ranger 3.0. I’ve done everything for that code and still nothing!!! But now I read this and everything makes so much sense on what’s wrong!!!! Dude your a life saver !!!!
Just don't forget "newer" vehicles, I'd reckon in the early 2000's and up range may have an integrated fuel pressure reg in the pump itself, and not external, which is the case for the 05 Altima I'm working on. Good luck!
@@CymatixOne I appreciate the follow up and the heads up! I'll let you know tomorrow when my replacement shows up. I swapped a 2001 Tacoma 3.4 litre motor into a 1993 Toyota pickup. This one has the independent fuel regulator mounted on the back of the fuel rail.
Thank you so much, with a broken OBD plug, I couldn’t even be steered in the right direction, I knew it was fuel related when I smelled fuel heavy, truck just started doing this a week ago occasionally, but now it’s full blown misfire and puffing some smoke
This video helped me very much is what I needed the information I was looking for on my 2002 Mitsubishi eclipse GT that's having a problem running it's not running right after I replaced the spark plugs and wires and changed the distributor Cap and still the same I never thought to look at the fuel regulator
Finally someone gives a clear and specific explanation without me needing a mechanic dictionary or wanting to fist bump them on the snoot. Sweet video my dude. Eta: And that guy sitting in his car, slumped on the steering wheel, looking fucking ended? I have never related more.
@@easyautofixI need help. I have a 2003 Hyundai accent. I have to use starting fluid once or twice a week to start my car but after it starts runs great until the next time I have to use starting fluid. Unfortunately it is happening more often. I change the fuel pump and still it is doing the same thing. Any help
I have a 99 Grand Marquis. It appears that there’s a massive coolant leak right under the fuel pressure regulator. I fill the coolant reservoir, and it empties almost immediately while running. I wish there was an option to add photos. But is this a possibility, or is it likely to be something underneath?
Would this have anything to do with cold air temperatures? Summer it doesn't give a p0171, but winter it does if I don't let it warm up, and now with this arctic outbreak it kicked an engine light on again.
last year i had a bad electric fuel pump so i installed a new one in the gas tank, after one year it got noisy, so again i put in a new one after 3 days it also got noisy, one time the car did not start, after a few seconds it started rough with low power then it was OK, could it be the fuel pressure regulator .. any help appreciated
My frontier 2002 v6 would throw random misfires, or cylinder 6 always misfired. I had a strong smell in the cabin. My truck had horrible gas mileage. My truck would start in the morning or if it was sitting for a while with with no issues, but if was to drive it for the day the 2nd time I started it, the gas odor seeped in and it was definitely a hard start where the engine would just spin a few seconds.
I've got 48 lbs of fuel pressure. It increases some on the guage when you press the acclerator. On cold starts it cranks right up and idels fine. Short one mile trip to grocery store, cut it off, shop for 15-30 minutes and it wont crank unless you press accelerator to floor. When it does crank it runs rough for about a minute or less but when I try to take off it stalls and goes dead sometimes leaving in middle of intersection!!! What's the problem? Coming home finally I stomped it and ran up to 90 miles an hour from about 50-55 mph. Runs famously. No hesitation no nothing. Performs great. Pull into yard, cut it off wait a few seconds then try to crank and it wont start again unless I put it on the floor. Pump? Fuel filter? Pressure regulator? I'm afraid to go anywhere now, especially the wife. We're both 74 and only vehicle??? Note:Distributor cap rotor button, plugs and wires changed less than 10000 miles ago!
Sounds like my problem mine still misfires after everything I've done to it....... but my computer does not pick up codes at all, and I had a melted ignition coil and replaced all throttle bottle cleaned, injectors cleaned and new spark plugs still having a misfire mechanics can't figure it out I can't figure out, toyota is trying to buy my rav4 for 8,000 USA dollars in a check
I replaced my IAC because it was throwing a P0505 code. I have a high idle still, the catalyst converter was going red we took it off clean it out, we cleaned out the throttle body. And I'm still having a high idle. It's still throwing the same code and also a code for the fuel pressure regulator circuit issue. What's your suggestion to check next I haven't noticed overheating but we don't know if the thermostat is bad it has water and there's no leaks. But we can't figure out the high idle problem and why it's still throwing the p 0 505 code I took it to two different places and they cleared that code just for it to keep coming back what could that be? What other things could I do to help the high idling. 2004 jeep Cherokee Laredo 4.0
I guess you checked for vacuum leaks. Anyway my high idle was caused by the power steering pump. There's a sensor that increases idle when the wheels are fully turned. So l just unplugged it - problem solved.
@@daltoncorzine2760 I changed the temperature sending unit by the thermostat and the purge valve, seems to have done the job, not saying that's gonna be your problem but it's worth a try, unhook the hose between the purge valve and the charcoal canister and if it's getting vaccum when the engine is cold, it's stuck open creating a vaccum leak, the temperature gauge can still work when that temprature sending unit is bad, and will make the computer think the engine is still cold when it's warmed up, just something to check, it drove me nuts.
mine is having not starting when it has too. it hesitates big time. specially cold starts. it's town random multiple misfires. but its not that because once it starts car runs fine. I'm leaning towards it been bad battery, because battery is leaking acid. I believe fuel pressure has something to do with it not wanting to start right away maybe low fuel pressure
I have a 2005 Prado with a 1kd engine. Once a week when driving at low speeds it loses engine power, followed by rough idling. My mechanic thinks I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator, but the only symptom is the loss of power. When you shut down the car for 10mins, everything goes back to normal and you drive as fast or slow as you wish. I am so confused by this
ok, I pulled my fuel lines off of the manifold behind the throttle body. Took carburetor cleaner, filled up the two holes. They filled right up. Came back 3 hours later, and the inlet side was empty. Evaporated I asked myself? Put more in, but it would not fill up the hole. Put the fuel lines back, and "Wham!" Truck started, ran good. I did not have to remove intake manifold.
Bro need your help what are the common problem when the engine is stalling while driving? any ideas with my suzuki ciaz? running low mileage 30,000km. No code founds. Thanks.
im not certain but my 3g eclipse sounds like it has a bad fuel regulator. car won't turn over sometimes and could let it sit for a few minutes up to hours and come back start it up and it will start. by then all i can smell in the cabin is gas. it's like the engine is now flooded with gas
Could this be the cause to my misfire in cylinder 5 p0305. All of my spark plugs and ignition coils are replaced brand new, denso ignition coils and ngk spark plugs but still on hot days when the engine is at a full warm up itll miss fire just in that cylinder and no other codes beside that?
I'd bank more on the pump then the regulator being broken tbh. you can always just go the cheaper route and replace the regulator first since it's cheaper. same issues like what a bad/failing fuel pump does too. only big notice for mine is that the fuel pump is super loud and sometimes sounds like it is running dry. otherwise my car does start here and there, does drive, but also stalls getting 0 gas. lucky for me i get to change both so it doesn't matter too much sad part is this pump i got failing is only a year old. OEM one completely died out with 0 warning motor just gave out one day.
F150 2009 4.6 L seems like the pressure regulator is noisy at times on accelerating like fluttering noise and pour gas mileage ? I thought it was fan clutch
Ford escort wagon I had to rebuild because regulator went bad over flowed engine with gas and lady was holding it to the floor to keep it running untill it was overcome with gas and spun 3 rod bearings then filled half the block with gas
lean on both banks new idle aid control vale intake gasket purged ecm truck ran a lot better for all most a week. Check engine light is back on. 1999 Ford f50 superduty 5.4 two valve engine. Help me please
I have black smoke, but then it goes away🤷♂️... I used my obd2 and it said fuel pressure regulator 1.... do I just change the fuel pressure regulator.. (2009 vw cc 3.6)
HI i have r SKODA OCTAVIA (1Z3) 1.6 FSI (85 KW / 115 HK) having error code P2294 Fuel pressure regulator 2 control circuit/open. i have following question kindly help me out i am trying to fix it but even workshop person just guesing . 1. do i need to change whole fuel pressure regulator which is expensive. or just need to change cables because as i read its related to wiring circuit problem. 2. is there any way to diagnose more concreatly? 3. it would be nice if some one tell me where i can found this regulator on engine pics or video will highly appriciated.
I experience bucking in my 96 jeep grand cherokee at around 1800 rpm at around 55mph with no check engine light with all spark plug, wires and roter button replaced. Bear in mind no check engine light EDIT-- problem has been solved camshaft position sensor and scan code came up for crankshaft sensor even with no engine light
@@ken-dt1zp yes I did surprisingly it wasn't the part that the scanner picked up... the scanner picked up a crankshaft position sensor code.... I went and pulled one and a camshaft position sensor located underneath where all the spark plug wires go together... turns out my bucking problem was solved just by changing camshaft position sensor and not the crankshaft the problem quit before the crankshaft sensor was touched...
We have tried to fix everything under the sun on my 1988 Chevy G20 it keeps bogging out and wanting to shut down even while we're driving on the highway then it will drive perfectly fine for miles and then it will act up again for a few seconds and then it will drive perfectly fine for another few miles if anyone can give me any help I'd appreciate it already changed the map sensor and the throttle position sensor the fuel pump the fuel filter none of these needed to be done but I'm trying to eliminate it since it doesn't have it OBD1 and I cannot get anything to help me understand what's going on. It also backfires and hesitates and skips but we changed the spark plugs and wires and cap and rotor and when we give it gas it stops acting up until it acts up again
My 01 gt mustang starts sometimes and drives but sometimes it will start and cut right off. Now it takes forever to crank. Does anyone know what this could be? Just put new fuel pump
🔥OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
If we are watching this video then chances are we are not having an outstanding day lol
😂
far from it brother 😭
Bro my car broke down on my way home from work tonight bra 🤣🤣
Mfn facts!
🤕
EXCELLENT CHANNEL! Excellent info, especially for us non mechanics who are trying to diagnose and fix our cars when a REAL mechanic/garage can't! Priceless! Thank you!
If anyone wants to comment...I just had the fuel pump replaced when it failed and left me sitting, mid drive. But when I got my 03 Buick Rendezvous back from the shop, it now just cuts out while driving. (Like it's not getting gas) If I let off the gas when it starts to happen, many times it will recover without shutting off. If I'm going up a hill and I continue to try to get up the hill by lightly giving gas as its slowing down, it WILL backfire. I returned it to the garage because interior lights were coming on and off while driving all the while this continued, thinking maybe they crossed the wires on the fuel pump upon installation. (Now these symptoms only happen AFTER it is warmed up. Never happens cold. Well the mechanic said it was the wiring harness and apparently replaced that. They said it was fixed (no charge 🙂) Picked it back up and same symptoms continue. Spitting sputtering cutting out and shutting off. (Not the battery, but the engine , losing power steering and brakes if I can't get it to "recover" by fanning the gas, or throwing it into neutral and revving.) Now I'm thinking gas pressure sensor?
Any comments greatly appreciated!! Thanks yall, from this southern girl to....you? Lol)
I should add recently before this I had a different shop remove my catalytic convertor (without my permission!) When I took it in to have 02 sensors replaced. A week after that, the fuel pump went up and when I got it out of the garage, that's when these new symptoms appeared.
The adventure continues....🥴
Having same symptom
Solved?
*Could be crank shaft sensor* ..
Did you solve your problem? Having EXACT same issue 95 ford f250.
Great vid bro! Straight forward and easy to listen to production unlike 95% of car diagnostics videos lol
You left out an important one, when the regulator fails to go closed all the way it fails to maintain higher pressure during heavier fuel demand under load, resulting in loss of power.
Would this be a lean condition?
I definitely had this symptom on the highway
@@JV-vy7de
a faulty fpr creates a rich condition never lean.
Lean condition is mostly a exhaust manifold leak, intake vacuum leak, faulty sensor, weak fuel pump.....
My Malibu "stutters" in acceleration. The only code throwing was the fuel pump regulator sensor, but that doesnt match my only symptom. I have 0 other symptoms other than the stutter and code. If I let off acceleration, it stops. It stutters again as I accelerate 50% of the time, until I reach a steady 60-80 mph and then it's smooth as silk. No stutters on down shifts. Anyone?
2015 Chevy Malibu ltz turbo
Would this cause a mis under load?
Thanks brother. Im having all these symptoms on my 90 accord. Will try the fuel pressure regulator and drive the car
Replacing bad fuel pump caused my regulator to go out, it was probably already on its way out. Thanks for the help.
Thank You, I don't know if this is the problem or one of the problems, but I really appreciate people like you sharing knowledge.🎉
Bingo! 2005 Ford Explorer V6 4.0L. Running fine one day and wouldn't stay running the next. Disco'd the MAF sensor (after cleaning it failed) and it started right up. R2'd and now it runs even smoother than before. Thanks!
what is r2d by any chance
Bro thanks for this video, I have a p0175 code, I’ve been looking at multiple videos and all them dudes was way off. This the one right here!
My sisters 08 Avalon had hard starting. TK changed the fuel pump...why they never replaced the FPR on the side of the pump...beats me.
TK said it's not the FPR.
Not getting anywhere with TK, I UA-camd and changed it myself....not that hard.
I replaced the FPR..problem solved.
Thanks to all those UA-camrs out there !!!
Did you also smell gas? I just bought an 03 and it starts hard, idles rough if not give gas for a minute, then also smell of gas for about 30 seconds after car starts. Also feel strange vibrations while at idle.
@@fakejeepman06 I would suggest changing the plugs..wires and all the coil packs. Go on Amazon and you can buy everything as a kit. I had the same issue,with my 02 4runner...did what I mentioned...problem solved.
@@williamb2854 I only have p0171 and p0174, would that still be an ignition issue?
Perfect! Well explained. Thank you.
2007 Mountaineer hard start. Thank you for this video ❤
Well explains why I have put 2 sets of plugs and wires in my truck in the past 6 months. Don’t have to worry abt the cats tho. They’re in some junk yard somewhere😂 but I really appreciate this video tho. Wish I knew about this possible problem sooner!!
I stumbled on this today and every sign matches my car🤣😭 for the past 3 months I've seen the gas station more than my parents 😅. I'm away from my car now but when I'm back I'll come back to this video if it works out to thank you. All the symptoms starting from poor fuel milage match my symptoms. By the way its a 4afe engine on an ae 110 1998 corolla
I’m trying to trouble shoot a grand marquis man! By watching this I now know what’s wrong with my personal truck ford ranger 3.0. I’ve done everything for that code and still nothing!!! But now I read this and everything makes so much sense on what’s wrong!!!! Dude your a life saver !!!!
Wow and it’s that simple thanks for making it an easy follow video
Is a fuel pump module less likely to go bad than a vacuum operated pressure regulator? Thanks.
All on point for what I experienced
My girlfriend is going to loves me a bit extra because I will be able to fix her ride. Thanks for this 😊
Sick!! That make so much sense my 02 trailblazer needs this stat!! 180 miles per tank with hard start no codes thank you!!!
Did it fix the issue
Yes
@@EZ4U2Say11 Alright thanks
Great video. Very informative, and polished production as well! I think mine is the reason for my current no-start condition. Fingers crossed 🤞
Just don't forget "newer" vehicles, I'd reckon in the early 2000's and up range may have an integrated fuel pressure reg in the pump itself, and not external, which is the case for the 05 Altima I'm working on. Good luck!
@@CymatixOne I appreciate the follow up and the heads up! I'll let you know tomorrow when my replacement shows up. I swapped a 2001 Tacoma 3.4 litre motor into a 1993 Toyota pickup. This one has the independent fuel regulator mounted on the back of the fuel rail.
@@RedwoodsNorCal Awesome project man, hope the swap goes well! 🤙
@@RedwoodsNorCal Did this fix your no start issue ?
@@CymatixOne I fixed my issue! Believe it or now it was crossed coil pack command wires. She's running smooth now!
Thank you so much, with a broken OBD plug, I couldn’t even be steered in the right direction, I knew it was fuel related when I smelled fuel heavy, truck just started doing this a week ago occasionally, but now it’s full blown misfire and puffing some smoke
This video helped me very much is what I needed the information I was looking for on my 2002 Mitsubishi eclipse GT that's having a problem running it's not running right after I replaced the spark plugs and wires and changed the distributor Cap and still the same I never thought to look at the fuel regulator
Finally someone gives a clear and specific explanation without me needing a mechanic dictionary or wanting to fist bump them on the snoot. Sweet video my dude.
Eta: And that guy sitting in his car, slumped on the steering wheel, looking fucking ended? I have never related more.
Great video… thanks for sharing!
Thank-You For Your Video !! - Great Job Explaining It All !! 💖
Outstanding! I learned a great amount today. Thanks 👍
Awesome thank you!
Thank you for your help
Great short and to the point😊
Outstanding info, great job!
Very nice thank you!
Could a bad fuel regulator causes engine stall?
@@easyautofixI need help. I have a 2003 Hyundai accent. I have to use starting fluid once or twice a week to start my car but after it starts runs great until the next time I have to use starting fluid. Unfortunately it is happening more often. I change the fuel pump and still it is doing the same thing. Any help
*car doesn't start. Goes on UA-cam to check out a fix*
"I hope you all are having an outstanding day"
*exits video*
😂
Love these videos.
Thank you!
Where can we order the fuel Pressure Regulator
@Haroun360 - 1. any auto parts store. 2. eBay 3. dealership. 4. any other common sense questions you have??
You’re my god. I do wish I saw this before I changed the whole fuel pump tho
Now days the fuel pumps usually come as a full assembly just change it all.
Hard start had you thinking the fuel pump was going?
Big up and useful insight
Well done!
When all of these sensors/regulators all pretty much give the same symptoms, how exactly are you supposed to know which one is faulty?
Thank you!
That’s a good video thanks
I have a 99 Grand Marquis. It appears that there’s a massive coolant leak right under the fuel pressure regulator. I fill the coolant reservoir, and it empties almost immediately while running. I wish there was an option to add photos. But is this a possibility, or is it likely to be something underneath?
Very informative, I think I can rule this out. 2002 Explorer hard start, starts on 2nd try
Would this have anything to do with cold air temperatures? Summer it doesn't give a p0171, but winter it does if I don't let it warm up, and now with this arctic outbreak it kicked an engine light on again.
This is interesting. Makes Sense.
I have changed glow plugs changed starter motor but car is still hard starting could this be down to fuel pressure
Good job
Where is it located at on a 2006 Dodge ram hemi 2500???
last year i had a bad electric fuel pump so i installed a new one in the gas tank, after one year it got noisy, so again i put in a new one after 3 days it also got noisy, one time the car did not start, after a few seconds it started rough with low power then it was OK, could it be the fuel pressure regulator .. any help appreciated
Can a bad fuel regulator put system bank1 too lean its not having enough fuel or are those more likely to be pumps
My frontier 2002 v6 would throw random misfires, or cylinder 6 always misfired. I had a strong smell in the cabin. My truck had horrible gas mileage. My truck would start in the morning or if it was sitting for a while with with no issues, but if was to drive it for the day the 2nd time I started it, the gas odor seeped in and it was definitely a hard start where the engine would just spin a few seconds.
I've got 48 lbs of fuel pressure. It increases some on the guage when you press the acclerator.
On cold starts it cranks right up and idels fine. Short one mile trip to grocery store, cut it off, shop for 15-30 minutes and it wont crank unless you press accelerator to floor. When it does crank it runs rough for about a minute or less but when I try to take off it stalls and goes dead sometimes leaving in middle of intersection!!!
What's the problem?
Coming home finally I stomped it and ran up to 90 miles an hour from about 50-55 mph.
Runs famously. No hesitation no nothing. Performs great. Pull into yard, cut it off wait a few seconds then try to crank and it wont start again unless I put it on the floor.
Pump?
Fuel filter?
Pressure regulator?
I'm afraid to go anywhere now, especially the wife. We're both 74 and only vehicle???
Note:Distributor cap rotor button, plugs and wires changed less than 10000 miles ago!
What did it end up being?
Did you ever figure it out mines is doing the same exact thing
Mine was a well known issue. Crank sensor or engine speed sensor. So far so good after changing.
I got a 91 Ford f359 7.5. can a fuel pressure regulator be bad or worn out if I don't smell fuel in the vacuum line?
Sounds like my problem mine still misfires after everything I've done to it....... but my computer does not pick up codes at all, and I had a melted ignition coil and replaced all throttle bottle cleaned, injectors cleaned and new spark plugs still having a misfire mechanics can't figure it out I can't figure out, toyota is trying to buy my rav4 for 8,000 USA dollars in a check
So whenever a car starts then dies right after, that means a bad regulator?
can someone answer this
Should of mentioned dark grey smoke on the startup from a faulty regulator.
I replaced my IAC because it was throwing a P0505 code.
I have a high idle still, the catalyst converter was going red we took it off clean it out, we cleaned out the throttle body. And I'm still having a high idle.
It's still throwing the same code and also a code for the fuel pressure regulator circuit issue. What's your suggestion to check next I haven't noticed overheating but we don't know if the thermostat is bad it has water and there's no leaks.
But we can't figure out the high idle problem and why it's still throwing the p 0 505 code
I took it to two different places and they cleared that code just for it to keep coming back what could that be?
What other things could I do to help the high idling. 2004 jeep Cherokee Laredo 4.0
Did you calibrate the throttle body after the clean?
I guess you checked for vacuum leaks. Anyway my high idle was caused by the power steering pump. There's a sensor that increases idle when the wheels are fully turned. So l just unplugged it - problem solved.
very good ☆☆☆☆☆
Could this cause a problem where the engine starts fine when it's cold, but once it gets to running temprature it cranks over fine but will not start
I'm having the same problem
@@daltoncorzine2760 I changed the temperature sending unit by the thermostat and the purge valve, seems to have done the job, not saying that's gonna be your problem but it's worth a try, unhook the hose between the purge valve and the charcoal canister and if it's getting vaccum when the engine is cold, it's stuck open creating a vaccum leak, the temperature gauge can still work when that temprature sending unit is bad, and will make the computer think the engine is still cold when it's warmed up, just something to check, it drove me nuts.
mine is having not starting when it has too. it hesitates big time. specially cold starts. it's town random multiple misfires. but its not that because once it starts car runs fine. I'm leaning towards it been bad battery, because battery is leaking acid. I believe fuel pressure has something to do with it not wanting to start right away maybe low fuel pressure
Did you ever resolve it im having same issues @daltoncorzine2760
I have a 2005 Prado with a 1kd engine. Once a week when driving at low speeds it loses engine power, followed by rough idling. My mechanic thinks I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator, but the only symptom is the loss of power. When you shut down the car for 10mins, everything goes back to normal and you drive as fast or slow as you wish. I am so confused by this
Will it make the gas gauge not work?
Thanks for the video. How about a hard warm start?
I have the same issue too, did this help you?
@@GutterGuys mine wasn’t the regulator but had two issues distributer and accumulator
95 Nissan Sentra won't start. New fuel pump and distributor. New harmonic balancer - spark plugs - wires. It's in time just won't start.
Did you figure out what the problem was?
ok, I pulled my fuel lines off of the manifold behind the throttle body. Took carburetor cleaner, filled up the two holes. They filled right up. Came back 3 hours later, and the inlet side was empty. Evaporated I asked myself? Put more in, but it would not fill up the hole. Put the fuel lines back, and "Wham!" Truck started, ran good. I did not have to remove intake manifold.
Bro need your help what are the common problem when the engine is stalling while driving? any ideas with my suzuki ciaz? running low mileage 30,000km. No code founds. Thanks.
Could be crankshaft sensor
I’m having all the symptoms on my 2004 Honda Pilot. I found the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line disconnected. Hoping that’s all it is!
would the smell of gas and emissions be a symptom of a bad regulator?
im not certain but my 3g eclipse sounds like it has a bad fuel regulator. car won't turn over sometimes and could let it sit for a few minutes up to hours and come back start it up and it will start. by then all i can smell in the cabin is gas. it's like the engine is now flooded with gas
Thanks man something is up with my miata
Could this be the cause to my misfire in cylinder 5 p0305. All of my spark plugs and ignition coils are replaced brand new, denso ignition coils and ngk spark plugs but still on hot days when the engine is at a full warm up itll miss fire just in that cylinder and no other codes beside that?
could be the air intake manifold gasket
Do u have email i can send u video of my bronco having trouble starting after sitting for 20mins?
Can this cause a vehicle to stall?
Yep
OK I think you just help me out because my vehicle has a hesitation on starting, and he was throwing a code of P0172
What should the vacuum reading be at the pressure regulator?
Yeah my trucks engine (4.6l triton) is down to 7mpg right now with this issue.
nice 1
TQ!
I have code p018c coming up not enough voltage and fuel pressure sensor b circuit low. I changed the fuel rail sensor and the fuel sensor
The narrator sounds like he's been enjoying a few Billies
Makes it easy to understand while im high😅
Could this possibly cause the P2097 code to pop up?
How do I know it’s the regulator and not the pump ?
I'd bank more on the pump then the regulator being broken tbh. you can always just go the cheaper route and replace the regulator first since it's cheaper. same issues like what a bad/failing fuel pump does too. only big notice for mine is that the fuel pump is super loud and sometimes sounds like it is running dry. otherwise my car does start here and there, does drive, but also stalls getting 0 gas. lucky for me i get to change both so it doesn't matter too much sad part is this pump i got failing is only a year old. OEM one completely died out with 0 warning motor just gave out one day.
What is the difference between the regulator or damper
F150 2009 4.6 L seems like the pressure regulator is noisy at times on accelerating like fluttering noise and pour gas mileage ? I thought it was fan clutch
Ford escort wagon I had to rebuild because regulator went bad over flowed engine with gas and lady was holding it to the floor to keep it running untill it was overcome with gas and spun 3 rod bearings then filled half the block with gas
Clio 2 2005 model has a line pressure fault. The problem cannot be found, can you help? injection or diesel pump? brain?
I am infact not having an outstanding day since I'm watching this video to fix an issue on my daily 😢
Yeah, my car starts very badly, like not getting enough of something, and im just there playing with the key till it starts finally.
I'm currently getting all these symptoms on my 89 f250 with a 351. I get about 2 to 5 mpg.
lean on both banks new idle aid control vale intake gasket purged ecm truck ran a lot better for all most a week. Check engine light is back on. 1999 Ford f50 superduty 5.4 two valve engine. Help me please
Update? Same problem here.
Good
Very kind, thank you!
I’ve been chasing this rich code for awhile and I’m sure that’s got to be the issue.
You forgot to say that the engine can rev up and down if you try to engage the accelerator slightly and holding it at a certain degree open.
I have black smoke, but then it goes away🤷♂️... I used my obd2 and it said fuel pressure regulator 1.... do I just change the fuel pressure regulator.. (2009 vw cc 3.6)
Yeahhhh ... change the fuel pressure regulator ... what do you have to lose?!?
I think that this is exactly what's wrong with my suzuki verona, all symptoms are exactly alike.
HI i have r SKODA OCTAVIA (1Z3) 1.6 FSI (85 KW / 115 HK)
having error code P2294 Fuel pressure regulator 2 control circuit/open.
i have following question kindly help me out i am trying to fix it but even workshop person just guesing .
1. do i need to change whole fuel pressure regulator which is expensive. or just need to change cables because as i read its related to wiring circuit problem.
2. is there any way to diagnose more concreatly?
3. it would be nice if some one tell me where i can found this regulator on engine pics or video will highly appriciated.
I experience bucking in my 96 jeep grand cherokee at around 1800 rpm at around 55mph with no check engine light with all spark plug, wires and roter button replaced. Bear in mind no check engine light
EDIT-- problem has been solved camshaft position sensor and scan code came up for crankshaft sensor even with no engine light
Were you able to identify the problem and get it fixed?
@@ken-dt1zp yes I did surprisingly it wasn't the part that the scanner picked up... the scanner picked up a crankshaft position sensor code.... I went and pulled one and a camshaft position sensor located underneath where all the spark plug wires go together... turns out my bucking problem was solved just by changing camshaft position sensor and not the crankshaft the problem quit before the crankshaft sensor was touched...
We have tried to fix everything under the sun on my 1988 Chevy G20 it keeps bogging out and wanting to shut down even while we're driving on the highway then it will drive perfectly fine for miles and then it will act up again for a few seconds and then it will drive perfectly fine for another few miles if anyone can give me any help I'd appreciate it already changed the map sensor and the throttle position sensor the fuel pump the fuel filter none of these needed to be done but I'm trying to eliminate it since it doesn't have it OBD1 and I cannot get anything to help me understand what's going on. It also backfires and hesitates and skips but we changed the spark plugs and wires and cap and rotor and when we give it gas it stops acting up until it acts up again
Try replacing the coil or coil pack whichever one you have ave....
Wish this guy was around 20 years ago when I was hitting brick walls trying to figure out why my '91 formula wouldn't function up to snuff. :)
What is the difference between a sensor and a regulator
One senses the fuel, one regulates the fuel.
My mazda6 won't start at all it say p0001_code
My 01 gt mustang starts sometimes and drives but sometimes it will start and cut right off. Now it takes forever to crank. Does anyone know what this could be? Just put new fuel pump
No we are not I would rather be married again lmao thank you for your time and help