Moving A Fuseboard/Consumer Unit inside, Tradify how to, Exotic life of an Electrician
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- Опубліковано 7 жов 2024
- Moving a fuse board inside from outside cupboard using an AD box with din rail connectors,
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/ n_bundy_electrical
www.expertelectrical.co.uk for fuse box boards USE BUNDY10 for discount.
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/ nickbundyelectrical
just started on my electricians course after 30 yrs driving .. been watching CJR videos and saw your summer house with Chris ... always learing new skills and methods
thanks for the videos Mark
I did the same mate after 20 years hgv I retrained in 2010 all self funded and 4years college I was 44 then 54 now it was hard but worth it all the guys that do these videos have helped me massively and really can't thank them enough good luck with your training
This my be very useful for me, I like the din rail terminal blocks I must say. I've a job to do soon where I cannot get enough length to replace the consumer unit and put it into an accessible place, i.e currently shoved up against the ceiling over 6 foot from the floor in an old install. I can push the cables up into the roof space fit box and rail and extend new runs tidy, accessible and safe. No loose wagos, terminal blocks, multiple boxes any of that mess. So cheers for that!
uk.farnell.com/wago/280-833/terminal-block-din-rail-4pos-12awg/dp/1283397?CMP=KNC-GUK-GEN-KWL-MAN-L5Pages-New-Structure-Test47UK-31Aug2020-WAGO&mckv=_dc|pcrid|460604209631|&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIH7BRAbEiwAoDxxTrDw6dzsBY22vfQLHMc-K4kpQSQCsag4nOQfU0LxIT0c_ExQm--rtRoCM7AQAvD_BwE
Here in the Netherlands, separate circuits are just not allowed in single boxes. Well, not without a divider, anyway. Once they leave the consumer unit they have to stay separated. So you’d be forced to go for separate boxes, and they don’t really make ones small enough.
It’s good how you’ve got Adam doing real jobs and giving him responsibilities 2nd fixing at his stage. I was fetching and carrying all my first year. The old boys had trust issues😂
Lol can’t learn anything if your not practising it 👍
@@NBundyElectrical too right you don't pay em for making tea lol
I was already running 3/4 conduit on my second week, starting at a small shop helped me
Er sorry... ring final circuit! 😂 Love how we now instantly see critics comments flash before our eyes when we say something!
Nice idea getting Adam one, I get the impression you're really mentoring him rather than using him as just labour. I've been watching for a while mate, you're doing good things.
Very much agree with you on that, quite possible we will see Adam joining Nick in the future.
I would agree with this, im an electrician and I hated my apprentiship, it gave me a dislike towards the job, still does to this day.
Nice tidy work my friend very impressed get yourself a core cutter saves time and a nice Finnish well done
May I say, very impressive. As with other ‘You Tube Spark-tonians,’ a very tidy and respectable looking job. Even be it, for a simple rental, no less by way of quality and presentation. Good show.
Just recently qualified in Ireland. Love your videos 👏🏻 your apprentice will learn a lot of you. Great stuff
I did a job once in the mid-eighties, when you had to book the DNO to come and isolate, then make an appointment to come back several hours later. They would inspect your work. If they didn't like what they saw, they would not reconnect you. Sometimes if you are lucky you can redirect the cables from the outside to the inside and do away with an adaptable box.
Nice installation one thing you should consider buying is a diamond core system for nice clean round holes true the concrete blocks brick.👌
Din rail connectors are definitely the way forward mate. Really enjoy the channel buddy keep them coming
Interesting videos. Just an observation, especially when it's freezing cold and you have an Isolator right next to the incoming supply, connect a small temporary consumer unit to the Isolator with a double socket on a 20A rcbo. Then you can boil a kettle and charge drill batteries etc 🙂 When I changed the consumer unit at home I did that and could keep the kitchen sockets and central heating boiler running 🙂
Your not working fast enough no time for tea breaks
Great job Nick the ONLY consideration with the install I personally took into account, were that the earth DIN rail connectors screw to the actual DIN rail meaning that all the earth's are connected together at that point not just at distribution end. So when testing it can cause some confusion as someone may think they have an earth path on a circuit but actually it's from another circuit (if that makes sense). (however I still like it and would probably do the same myself 😂)
agreed. Had a similar issue linking metal KO boxes and creating confusing earth paths on end to end readings. bit of a mind scratcher for while!
Good point.
Din rail and terminals are more often used in Industrial environments. So the earthing terminal to rail function
,may not be familiar to guys who work predominantly in houses.
My Dad was a electrician, we did primarily rural farm work..dairy, pork, poultry. Working in Southwestern Ontario in Canada -15 to -25 from Jan - Mar was common.
Ha! I have to do the exact same thing, except both sides of the wall are inside my house. Perfect video. Thank you
I still have my Megger 1553 and love it
Hands down the best ! Nothing fancy , bit does it all !!
I still have my megger cm500 and still use it!
Nice job. Not to critasise but I would have used larger din rail connectors for those rings, especially the kitchen ring and fitted the insulated end shields to the connectors your 6mm phase connector had exposed terminals. Also I would have fitted terminal end stops to hold all those connectors in place securley. A 2.5mm din rail connector is only rated for 24A if memory serves me well and were protected by a 32A braker. I would have used 4mm din rail terminals for the rings as a minimum they are rated for 35A and have slightly de rated the protection as well. If a kettel, toaster, dishwasher are on or maybe a washing machine, tumble dryer and kettel are on, those 2.5mm terminals you fitted are very close or even slightly over their current rating.
Not long moved from the old MFT1552 to the MFT1741
Was daunted by the buttons at first but soon got used to it! Main downside so far is it wants 3 leads to do a Ze. MFT1552 was happy with 2 lol
Another good video, I use an MFT1552 for work supplied by the company, meaning I have my own personal one availiable, very good condition in original box...will need calibration if interested....
Top job from from a top bloke
Short circuit protection plus RCD in the same devise, but doesn't it make the work a lot more expencive to the client? That's really a great job dude ,well done,you are a such a skilled electrician and caring to the job,congratulation.
INSIDE BRAZIL Yeah. But prices have come down I think.
that fusebox brand is exceptional value in uk, the surge is basically free and rcbos and half the price of other brands. Worth extra bit of coin
@@AndyK.1 Maybe you are rght kkkk.
With only 6 or so circuits rcbo was the right choice. Plus in a rental less likely nuisance tripping the whole property.
@@tresslerj1985 i totaly agree with on that,no doubt. ( l' m a electrician enegineer specialized in projecting power grid and electrical substation here in Brazil). Having a RCBO per circuit worth while because when occur ground fault to circuit it will not turn off the whole property,as even has said. But it will elevat cost damn a lot the cost, now imagine a property having 30 circuits as is normal to find here in Brazil? short circuit Breaker and RCD combined in the same device, here in Brazil are very expencive,even the low quality one from China.
Hi, Very impressive installation ;quick and neat . I like th way you give a continuous dialogue explaining your problem solving and explanations re you decision making. This is what apprentices and journeymen need to see as the college training boards are no match for real situations. I believe that the Fusebox consumer units have the torw=que setting printed on the lower left of each component. Thanks.
Nice tidy job nick and in all your videos you show some nice work.
I couldn't stop myself from asking, sorry !
Could you not have cut a letter box size hole on the inside slightly above the meter box cupboard and pulled the existing cables through into the porch?
The problem with what you have is, besides the obvious joint, all the earth cables are now connected together through the din rail.
And not to mention the extra time fitting that adaptable box.
Thanks mate and yes all the Earth so connected which I’m gonna go back and just switch over to a grey connector found this out while testing I didn’t realise so ended up testing from the adaptable box, and yeah could’ve got a hole in Poland through but I wanted to do it this way and have it low-level so the guy can put a unit around The fuse board behind the door cheers dude
Love how youve used earth terminals so they are all connected together in the box outside then put your earths in the proper place....... Would have used grey terminals so the earths were all seperated personally
Yeah didn’t realise until after for testing 😅😅
I was just going to say that. Just use standard ones as you're only extending them
Blue terminals make me think of intrinsically safe circuits!
High quality domestic install using din rail and not terminals strips
Just for info, the diamond core cutters from Toolstation go fairly well through walls and leave a really nice hole, just remember to pilot first, then take off the hammer action when doing core drilling.
Great workmanship💪🏻that snickers hoodie looks well smart,must get myself one😃
Just a general comment really - It seems like no one is bothered about using stuffing glands with T&E cables? As the compression from them can force the cpc to cut into the other conductors over time! Good video and reflects real sparky life well :)
Your doing amazing work going to be an electrician my once I've passed my level 1 maths English
Don’t bother, it’s a crap game to be in, I’ve done it for 30years, I’m now installing fire alarms for more money, just my advice pal, I’ve seen things get so much worse. In 1992 I watched the Electricians around me earning £1000 in 3 days, that same £1000 today is worth a third of what it was back then when you could buy a 1 bedroom flat for £30k. Top money without weekends now is roughly £198.00 minus tax, you end up doing very technical difficult work for the same money as a bus driver. You’ve been warned by someone who has done it.
glyn hodges so my 30years experience means nothing? Facts are not doom and gloom, the best sparks I know are charge hands and can only get £220 £240 pd. £300 a day? My arse
glyn hodges upgrading from domestic to industrial? Bwahaha
glyn hodges point me to the companies that are paying £300 pd for a gold card sparks. My mates want work.
I wonder if I can get through this video without commenting? DAMN IT! Top upload as usual Mr B 😋👌
You can never resist a cheeky comment and cheers dude
One thing to watch out for when using din rail connectors is the earth versions actually mechanically connected to the din rail and will carry the earth to the rail. This can mean you end up making all the earths of various circuits common which can give artificially low readings when testing.
I would suggest that in this case it probably would not make much difference but if the joint was further from the board it could.
I would recommend using one earth block just to earth the rail and use standard grey connectors for the remaining earths of other circuits.
Yes, you're just creating parallel paths by using earthing din connectors. Also the din rail doesn't need earthing as it is not an exposed conductive part so there is no need for them whatsoever.
@@leayyy Yeap your right, plastic box in this case
@@leayyy it is an extraneous conductive part though.
The definition being that ‘it can introduce a potential, generally an Earth potential’
Which he is doing because he’s using earthing connector blocks.
But I’m not bothered anyway because it’s also earthed anyway.
But if you take all the earths off, then it wouldn’t be earthed
But then it wouldn’t meet the definition of an extraneous conductive part either because it’s no longer introducing an Earth potential.
I just can’t get excited about this game anymore…
Top top vid.....well done for letting Adam do his first board...obviously taught him well and give it a few years and he will really realise how much of a great fella you were to work with keep em coming......also where is the link to the 2nd part of the podcast with you Dave Save and Mr Beck at the pub.....be good and keep safe
Your work is very neat very good job geezer top job mentoring your apprentice. You can find Megger Testers on Gumtree with calibration certification I think it’s sometimes better than eBay as people want to avoid the extortionate fees.
great video, just don't understand why 27 people dislike the vid !!!!!
Well done !
Neatly executed !
I noticed 2 service cables into the service cut-out. I'm surprised at that. I thought the DNOs had stopped the practice of looping to the next property long before these look like they were built.
Nice job 👍🏽
Went a nice way about it
Brilliant job
18:36 Nice labeling
Hi buddy, you mentioned a comment being made about not putting the consumer unit on the DNO board, I work for electricity northwest DNO for Lancashire and lakes and we also advise this mainly due to work requests we get from meter operators requesting we attend to change the back board due to condition such as damp or decay but if the consumer unit is mounted on it when we arrive we can't touch the back board as its seen as holding equipment that isn't our side of supply
Nice tidy board install there, i had the mft 1553 and run powersuite with it and it was reliable for years and shifted over to the mft 1731 and ive had no problems with it. my only gripe with megger was if you needed an update for any of there software it would cost you dearly.
Love meggar. Hate that model. I bought one new. It’s been hardly used over the 10 years I’ve had it, like 2 months solid testing in all that time (even when subbing the firms preferred to supply their own) and the switches are knackered. The later model is a much better tool.
Tidy job there fella 👍👍
Cracking job if you ask me 👍
Good video very neat but using din rail earth lugs means all your cpc's are commoned in that adapt box makes testing hard from the consumer unit, and why not drill through the wall slightly higher in doors and pull those cables through saving all that connecting in the adaptable box and al ot of time yes
I like to use knife terminals when doing this. Don't like straight through crimping as it's solid core cable
The 2 problems with putting things on the dno board is that 1)when you add in consumer unit and the solar panel stuff that is going in more and more houses and the car recharging points that will be going in more and more houses it does not leave much space for its original intention.
2) The DNO/Metering engineer is responsible for making sure that everything upto the consumer unit that is on the board is DNO spec, so all lucy/henley blocks and cable and all isolators have to be checked and altered (i dont think i have ever seen a henley block without inner core showing and or neutral copper.)
Its if the DNO need to replace the backboard at some point. They wont touch the consumers switchgear so it means the consumer having to get a spark in
They will never change that! The house will be demolished first😂
Bartman thats right bart, but im talking about good old fashioned buildings though, not mingin 1980s boxes🤣
Great video yet again ! Well done on hitting 10k subscribers 👍🏻 just wanted to ask where did you get your din rail connectors from ? Cheers steve
As I assume cables were coming down cavity, was it possible to fish them through into the new board on the other side?
the guy should have used hes brain
@@topchannel1000 any need for that comment? cables were probably not long enough. Put your work online and let us judge.
@@jonathanstephens7804 well said fella. Could clearly see there was not enough length on cables.
Seems like commenter above should watch the video from start to finish and "use his brain".
Fine job been done there under the circumstances. Always preferential to have the board within the property imo.
Edmond Uku enlightenment required on how he should have used his brain??? I can see the cables were not long enough and he did use his brain by using an adapter box
If I’m not mistaken, the new inside consumer unit is higher than the existing external one, cables are coming down the cavity so they’d actually be more than long enough if fished through to new fuse box.
Looks an awesome day there bro
A superb job sir.well done.
Did the DIN rail earth connectors not play havoc with your test results? I thought they had a metal connection that earths the DIN rail hence won't your r2 readings from the consumer unit will be a fraction of they should be?
Yea I could work it out to start with 😂 I ended up in clipping them from the din rail individually to test, right pain
As a preference even though I know it’s inside an enclosure I’d have either stuck an earth terminal to the far right, or a barrier and end stop, to shield the open side of the 6mm
there is an insulated earth terminal version would have removed the hassle along with the parallel earth paths . very tidy job
How did you set up your price list in Tradify, have you put specific items in or just generic info, would be great if you could do a video on quoting a house rewire on there to see how you put the info together.
nice neat job
If the board is made of a conductive material you put the tails through the same hole so they don't induce a current in the metal between them, which would produce heat. As you say it doesn't matter with plastic, but it does matter for any metal, not just steel.
Thanks for the video, hope I didn't miss this in your video..... when replacing a main panel, if the wires are too short, can a splice be added using wire nuts, where the wire nut connections would be contained in the main panel box?
Silicone does nothing to PVC cables, all PVC windows are sealed with the stuff. The acetic acid vapour (the vinegar smell) it gives off for a few hours as it cures can tarnish bare brass/copper terminals, but not known it to cause an actual problem. Anyway neutral cure silicone is readily available which contains no acetic acid.
Those earth terminals....they are all linked via the din rail and met of the consumer unit. When carrying out ring final tests, wont you have odd results? Problem being that ALL cpcs are still connected the din rail? Just a question, not a criticism. Love the videos and keep up the good work! DG Electrical.
Hi Nick, thanks for all your videos. When moving a Consumer unit. Is it better to use this type of connector in the adaptable box? Compared to your video from the 23rd May 2019 (18th edition Fusebox) where you used Wago connectors in the adaptable box.
Nice tidy job mate, well done.
Hang on, you put all those earth clips into a metal din rail? The earth clips typically bond onto the din rail, which means you’ve just bonded them all together there, without intending to.
That Tradify service looks really good! One thing that would've been cool to see is them calculating or allowing travel time for jobs in the scheduler, so it can say from Job A to Job B you'll need approximately 20 minutes to drive there, so you know not to schedule the two jobs too close together.
@Colt from Tradify alas, I'm not a tradesperson - I just enjoy watching videos about the trades; I actually work in tech, which I why I thought of such a feature. But it's really cool to see a tool built to solve this problem for tradespeople - it's kinda in the same realm as BIM
Love to see how tradify does payments when customers pay by credit card eftpos etc... looks really nice and easy to use
Nice work sparks, well done 👍
Nice job Nick. As there are many ways to do this type of job, had you thought of through crimping the individual cables and heat shrinking them and running them into the CCU instead?
I have built a small two way site temporary CCU with two twin socket circuits and bolted an LED 10w floodlight switched by a FSU on a ply board that I run direct into the meter or isolator when I do a CU change. As other have said before, it keeps your battery charger going and most importantly the kettle.
I’ve been using Tradify for a while now and found it very useful for my electrical business. The only issue I have is I often work in properties where I have no Wifi or 4G signal so the App doesn’t work. Do you have this problem very often?
Keep up the good work.
Nice one
About 10 years ago I suggested the local council do something similar to what Tradify is doing by listing their jobs for local tradesman to easily bid on, rather than using these giant companies like Connaughts (that ended up going bust anyway)... I was completely dismissed with a load of old crap about it being illegal. They weren't interested in the slightest.
Wow nice job well done thank u ..
do you need grommet strip on a plastic enclosure? nice work none the less :)
No not at all just though why not 👍
@@NBundyElectrical tht attitude wiil make you go from tradesman to craftsman cheers from the other side of pound and i like that din rail connector junction box. what it wld be like in the states maybe neater but still www.conmicro.com/1831Oakwood/oldpanel1.jpg
Spring/clamp DIN connectors would be more reliable and virtually "maintenance free", no screws to loosen over time and no worries about proper torque.
im a 3phase meter fitter, and u can fit CU in the meter box, no problems
shubz As long as their is room for your silly smart meters. Well better if their isn’t room !
You may find that it's DNO area specific, so better to ask each DNO, as required. Also, some gas distributors say no to bonding clamps in their boxes, so again, just ask them.
Great video again. Could you not pull the cables up from inside from under the floor?
I suppose but I wanted to do it this way dude
I was wondering about that, or make a hole in the inside wall, a bit higher up from the new CU and simply pull the wires through and into the back of the board, so no AB needed.
Also, crimping solid conductors? That's a whole debate in itself; generally not crimped unless using crimps specifically designed for solid, along with specific crimper for the crimps.
Did the gas and water test out as requiring MPB?
John Howard my thoughts exactly no joint needed bound tidier up higher
Neat job nick 👍🏻
As an electrician in the US it cracks me up the way the electrical service equipment is wired in the UK. Its way too small all plastic panels exposed wiring. It reminds me of wiring in a recreational vehicle, not a home.
Fuseboard outside!
Another interesting video
Another brilliant video.
Legitimate question, not a criticism (because I don't know) but since the wires comes down to the board, couldn't you have just pulled them back up a little and through the inside of the wall directly into the new board instead of using a box to extend them?
Great content guys!
wow i showed my wife this and she was like why are we not using this in the sates lol i did some qck chking turns out din rails are used in commercial and industrial apps and we have them ul listed i was 🤯 the only thing i cant find is a link to a din rail enclosure like the one you used only can find them around 125mmx175mm 5x7 freedom inches lol
Wow uses a gewiss gw44208 by looks of things
Nice 👍
You've commoned all your cpcs together on the din rail? You won't be able to test from your new board... and when it comes up for EICR in 5 years time you'll have to wago the cpcs in the adaptable box? Push fit wagos might be a better option as you reduce the number of screw terminals on the circuits, less likely for any to come loose etc. Also what are the torque settings for the din rail connectors?? Also with din rail connectors you should have an earth clamp connector on each end as they clamp and keep them all in place. Good job though, where do you source your fusebox dbs?
You could have put both ends of the ring together in the din rail connector in the adaptable box and brought a 4 or 6mm twin through the wall. As long as the ring connections are accessible which they are in the adb
thats rough as fuck
Why on earth would you do that?
@@davecowan9466 why not ?? What's your problem with doing this ?? Explain your point of view
@@leayyy what's your problem with this? Explain your point
So let’s say you get a fault on one of the rings, you trip all the power kitchen and sockets in the entire house. Then you have to split both rings to find what ring the fault is on then put it all back together, probably because the toaster had blown. That is why I would say that is rough as fuck. Can you explain your level of qualifications and experience?
hi mate
nice vid
just wondering though, how you managed to get a 10mm2 earth cable into a 6mm2 crimp lug????
Ignored me too, though he did admit the earth dinrail slips were a poor choice.
HAD A GO TODAY ON A JOB, IT DIDNT FIT HAD TO USE A 10MM LUG AND GET OUT THE BIG BOYS CRIMPER, LOL
Sorry guys not trying to ignore you just have a lot of comments to message back to I didn’t have any 10 mil lugs on me so I opened the 6 mm lug up a bit as a temporary measure and then crimped it,
You can get TRS glands specifically for Twin and sling and also for the tails, because a standard gland won’t tighten properly around the shape of T&E and you put them in to prevent moisture but then put a grommet in the bottom where moisture can get in! ..the proper glands would be good 👍🏼 They’re also down lights in the kitchen not spot lights but that’s being a bit picky! 😂 nice video and nice job you did though 👍🏼
Nice job
Nice install Nick. What wholesaler you used for purchasing the Din Rail Connectors and what brand are those connectors?
Nick, you're so good at bringing the job to life, another brilliant video. I had a question, if it's not too difficult to ask, what proportion of your daily rate do you pay to Adam? I asked it like this because I guess it's more meaningful than just the amount, regions being different and all that? So nice to see Tradify stuff at the end. I've had Tradify on to me for months as I've had a free trial and never gotten round to using it, but I know that I want to subscribe to it eventually. Cheers for a really comprehensive video.
Hey dude, thanks 👍 and currently Adam isn’t getting paid, of his choice may I add, he’s starting his apprenticeship properly in September with me, so until then he want site experience on his days off at college 👍
@@NBundyElectrical Yes, I particularly liked the bonding and earth labelling, I think I'll do that in future too. cheers.
That's a flash fuse board. Mine as asbestos! you wanna come change that? xD
Gas bonding in the wrong place but Nice job mate.
what's the point of a fire rated grommet in a plastic box? Why can a plastic box be used for extender joints but only a metal one for a CU?
The reason you shouldn’t put the consumer’s equipment in the DNO’s box is quite logical. What happens when the housing hinges get worn out or broken and a new meter box has to be fitted.or the backboard disintegrates and needs replacing. Both these scenarios are not unusual as boxes doors are left open to the elements because the locks get broken / vandalised,or worn out through the customer constantly accessing a key meter. In this instance It means that the DNO has to disassemble and unthread all the cables and work you have just done to fit a new backboard or box. . Before you say it is unlikely the boxes get damaged and need repairing or replacing just ask a DNO operative and he will tell you the same thing. The glass fibre boxes are rubbish and changing them is not a problem with just their own equipment in but with consumers equipment in,can really turn into a major job. I know because I’ve been doing it for 25 years and have repaired hundreds in that time.
If it's through steel, you must bring them through in trefoil formation to prevent the Eddy currents.
Otherwise use an aluminium gland plate.
Or use a plastic enclosure.
eddy currents in domestic lol what do you think they are running in their house
@@ImHungLikeAHorsee i have a time machine in my basement it runs on 480v, it draws 98 petawats
The earth does nothing except in a fault situation - L & N should share and aperture... The fancy glands are just to lighten your pocket - a knockout with grommet is fine as long as it's not on the top of the CU...
See the switch at 18:36 labelled 'danger 230v' - what's that? Looks like a mains switch but haven't you already got one in the box you fitted? Why do we need two of them? Sorry for the dumb question i'm coming from France where we only have one.
It’s very handy to have an isolator before the distribution board as it allows us to make changes to a board or its position, without removing the DNOs fuse.
Hi mate, I got my AM2 in April is there a chance you could do a video on your AM2 how it went and what you had to do. Also maybe a video on heating systems ? Thanks a lot
Hi mate
I went for my Am2 last month much easier then what they make it out to be, heating in simple all you have to do is follow a simple wiring diagram which shows you which cables you take to the connector block. Really simple tbh
Lol the AM2 wasn’t how it used to be and that’s challenging. When I done it. It was Steel conduit. Cable tray. MICC to the DOL. SWA from a switched 100amp Isolator.
Nowadays it’s nothing like that...
Don’t worry about your rig, that is simple (if you have hands on experience) I would brush up on testing and fault finding
How much did you charge for the board relocation ?
If you are installing a new larger consumer unit and the old small one has say two ring circuits feeding ground and first floor outlets is there mileage in splitting each ring in half to create 4 radial circuits ? If so is it easy to determine where the old ring is partitioned ?
Is it really OK to use a 13amp plug top for a cooker connection?
neat and tidy job mate. I have a similar job coming up but moving 2 boards into one with boxes/din connectors in loftspace. did you find the 2.5mm connectors a bit weak/bendy? I was thinking of using 4mm upwards
Yeah ring final!
Hey Nick -the spec. for your Megger says that operation is between -10 and +55C, is it that cold there??