Not everyone learns best by doing. If he's never seen a consumer unit changed up close and indepth before this could be the best way to grow confidence before being thrown into the job himself. Cory is a good teacher so he will learn.
Big thumbs up Cory particularly re pulling the cut out fuse. It was the bain of my working life that DNO’s persisted with this ridiculous turf war over the sanctity of the cut out fuse. How are you supposed to work safely if they will not fit main isolators as a standard practice. Luckily in my area the local DNO engineers took a pragmatic view and happily handed me resealing tabs whenever I needed them!
In Australia, we are required to install a meter isolator. It must go before the meter and before the main switch. It is in a separate cubical and away from final subcircuits. This way, consumer unit changes are simple (well - simpler)
wish I had someone teach me and go through testing and board changes etc. with me when I did my apprenticeship. Best of luck to Ruben hope he has a great apprenticeship and goes far with it!
I recently got smart meters fitted by EON, and was pleasently surprised to see the subcontracted sparky fitting a nice new double pole isolator in place of the old one that had been fitted by SSE when I had electric storage heaters. That's up here in Scotland. Can't believe it's not a standard thing TBH
I think it should be mandatory to fit an isolator when they are fitting a smart meter. Given the reason for smart meters or should I say excuse was that it will save us money, then how much could be saved by not having to call out the DNO when you want to work safely which is technically what you should do.
Another cracking job Cory, Rueben & Nathan (unseen behind camera). Appreciate the bell transformer replacement and glad it was changed, when we saw the overheating that it had been experiencing since install in 1995. Nest Smoke/CO alarms all networked and work brilliantly. Hypervolt EV Charger install now scheduled for 7 weeks time, so hope to see y'all then. Jessie (the Cocker Spaniel) is looking forward to being in the animal special, as she has just passed her Level 3 and Level 4 Scentwork UK exams.
Cool story about fuses. I asked my supplier about fitting a cutout so my electrician could work safely. They said we can send someone out to de energise and re energise if my electrician wasn't capable of pulling the main fuse.
Ruben - Unscrew - its a thing dude - Screw off completely different. Great bit of training there guys well done Jordan, you're doing a great job loving the community feel.
Now a standard practice for me to fit an isolator when swapping a board out. It takes no time at all to fit and they don’t cost much. It saves that fuse falling out again in the future.
Going back a few years,the local leccy board new there was a problem with drawing the main fuse ,there solution was to give approved companies seals and a set of pliers with a number on them to reseal 👍
Looking for some advice, I have 3 appliances each allegedly consuming 3050 at maximum capacity, but the wires and my main feed to the consumer unit is getting so hot. I deliberately upgraded my consumer unit so it could handle these appliances. I installed the outlet (Specifically for these appliances) using Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a 50-amp breaker, then installed ANOTHER Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a another 50-amp breaker so there are now 2, one for two lower end of the consumer unit and the other for the higher end. Furthermore, I also have two BG 80A 30mA 2 Residual current device (RCD) installed on the consumer unit and the main feed that powers the consumer unit has a fuse of 100amps. These appliances are in a container where I linked each outlet to one another so they can draw power from the first one (again, each has its own 50-amp breaker at the opposing side of the consumer unit, one for the upper side and one for the lower side), not sure if that is causing resistance as I even have the powercables with 13amp fuses to power those appliances, but since there is a 50amp breaker for each outlet, I’m still confused.
Setup a test bench and get Ruban to do a board change before and after his course. Think be will do a brilliant job seems to be picking it up so well !
I like a big box, well an electrical panel or cabinet where the romex cables can be brought in and easy to trace and see exactly where the wires are going to.
I never have understood why we don’t just fit an isolator for the main switch in the board how else can we do a board change without taking the main fuse out
Another good reason to keep screw line vertical is so they don't rust as easily, when they are horizontal condensation and moisture can build up on them causing to rust quicker
@@user-wy4oy6di4x When they were installing an EV charger. Hope that narrows it down 🤣. But seriously. EV chargers on pods, the chaser with jorden working late
I love how this video is obviously not supposed to be published yet but you put it in the recommendations card in the Van video. Almost feels like Patreon.. Also I think the "People seemed to enjoy the EICR video" is quite funny, because this video was uploaded before that video was published😉
Hey Cory if the trim work it works 👍 And it’s definitely an earth drain on the van check the steer lock and stereo hasn’t got a stray live touching earth
I don't understand the issue here in UK about removing main fuses... in Portugal as example, if a registered sparky needs to isolate installation, they can call the DNO, read the seal data and if they match with whats on file, the DNO authorizes the sparky to break the seals and work safely. Sparky leaves the broken seals and DNO will pass by in a couple days to inspect /reseal. All registered sparkies receive training to do it and obviously they must take responsibility for the work done. It works like this in alot of other countries. In the end, the DNO wins as a lot of customers there update the meter boxes / mains fuse carriers to current specs at no cost to the DNO. Sometimes, if they are told in advance and it is an old installation they even send a new meter for the sparky to install... Wish i had £5 in my pocket for every meter they sent in advance once we notified of works being done.. Maybe it is a insurance / liability here in UK?
Different colour tape is the best way to label the wiring....Only 6mm=cooker, only 10mm=shower, blue=water heater, red=heating, grey=smoke alarm, white=lights, yellow =sockets etc. etc.
3 week course I employed one and he wanted to know where the boards were to mount all the stuff. He left very quickly and was told th get some experience as I didn't have time to teach him and pay him as a sparks
Great content guys. Standard of work is up there with the very best. This weekend Britihs and Irish lions vs South africa. All best cant wait for the game. Springboks all the way
Why in UK consumer units are in many cases so small. I (Finland) have a consumer unit in a detached house with 145 DIN module slots. OK it's a little too big, but I think 20-30 seats is the minimum. At the summer cottage, I have a total of 25 DIN module slots, of which 20 are in use. For example, there are usually only 2-3 sockets behind a single automatic fuse (in one room) or a single kitchen appliance such as a stove (3x16A), dishwashing machine or washing machine (16A every fuse). 10A automatic fuse are really only for lighting use.
Same in Poland. I've fitted a 160 module (8x20) board in my 200sqm house and it's just about the right size, with not much free space left. T1+T2 surge protector itself takes up 8 slots, there's a main isolator (3-pole since it's a 3-phase supply), 2 3-pole isolators (for sub-board in the utility room and sub-board in an outbuilding), fused isolator for the solar PV board, distribution block for power distribution within the board, several 2-pole RCDs for a few groups of circuits, 3-pole breaker for induction cooktop, DIN intercom transformer, a bunch of 1-pole breakers for several lighting circuits (2 per floor for the sake of avoiding total darkness if one trips), socket circuits (one per every room, outdoor sockets) and individually supplied appliances (dishwasher, oven, washer, dryer, alarm system, IT cabinet, gate opener). Apart from that there's another 3x18 sub-board in the utility room just for the utility room equipment (air-to-water heat pump, electric heating element in the water tank, ERV unit, central vac, with extra kWh meters to track energy consumption for heating and ventilation). A 2x12 board with single or two RCDs and several breakers would be common in developer-grade 50sqm apartments with the most powerful appliance being the induction hob where hot water and heating are provided via district heat system, but it's impossible to fit all necessary equipment even in a small 100sqm house (even without electric heating and water) into anything smaller than 3x18 or 4x12 board without cutting too many corners. And since it's a standard these days to install heatpumps, AC and solar in new construction, much, much bigger boards are necessary. I suppose in the UK ring circuits manage to limit the number of breakers for socket circuits. A single 32A ring in a kitchen can mitigate the need for individual radial circuits for big appliances (except for the hob). One 32A ring can also supply all upstairs bedroom sockets for example. It was designed for the sake of savings and apparently it does a pretty good job in this regard. With 16A radials many more circuits are necessary. Here it's considered "good practice" to install no more than 8-10 sockets per circuit in "normal" rooms (bedrooms, living rooms). That means one, maybe two rooms maximum per one circuit.
@@GenerateLance cheers dude. I did a carpentry qualification about 9 years ago. Was looking to add another skill under my belt. Its a toss up between electrics and plumbing.
You don't need to lift the seat up in the van to jump start the engine . Ford have a plus contact from the battery which is under the bonnet . And sith the black -leed connect that to the body or some metal part on the engine
i when i was working as a electrician, always used a proving unit on my mains tester before sticking on supposed live terminals. other than that , top job , i retired as a spark in 2015 after 40 years.
You would think main isolators would be fitted as standard now and retrofitted as a legal requirement for just basics of safety more shut offs the better its like a tap. You got the tap itself then a valve under the sink to cut the tap off then you got valves before that sometimes to cut a room off then the main valve/stopcock
Great video really good to see confidence growing to. But most importantly!………. What work trousers are those?! (American journalist voice) ‘Cory who are you wearing!’
Got to love main dealers eh cory! I would never touch a ford these days, they have major security flaws. My friend has had 2 stolen in 3 years, people in the know can copy the ignition coding and literally drive ur van off. Last time was caught on premier inn cctv, 2 guys came into the car park with some kind of scanner, walked round the car park then disappeared for 30 mins. When they returned u see 2 vehicles unlock and they jumped straight in my mates custom and another wildtrak and drove off into the night.
Have customer call their electricity provider and ask for an isolator fitted? Then just book the job in once they have a date to avoid the potential nuisance that comes with pulling main fuse (even though I know you didn’t 😜) Only costs about £75 maximum up north, sometimes no charge depending on the provider And usually done within a couple of weeks
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
🧰🛠️ Tool Of The Day 👇
Klein Multi-Bit Screwdriver: amzn.to/2T6TPQs
Nice to see Rubens confidence growing, good on him👍🏻
The quickest way for anyone to learn is to do. Give Reuben the screwdriver next time and talk him through it. Great video.
Watching is
Not everyone learns best by doing. If he's never seen a consumer unit changed up close and indepth before this could be the best way to grow confidence before being thrown into the job himself. Cory is a good teacher so he will learn.
I hear I forget, I see I remember, I do I understand.....
So lunch was edited-out so we wouldn't know Cory's back on the Pringles! ;-)
Lunch was a UberEats order of 3 course meal. Nothing on the cheap with Artisan
problem not a heathy lunch as Cory said the apple play didn't work
Yep the Pringle muncher strikes again 🤣
Just doing my rounds learning bits about csu's and other electrical bits - hats off to you saying about the main fuse and the ridiculous DNO rules etc
Big thumbs up Cory particularly re pulling the cut out fuse. It was the bain of my working life that DNO’s persisted with this ridiculous turf war over the sanctity of the cut out fuse. How are you supposed to work safely if they will not fit main isolators as a standard practice. Luckily in my area the local DNO engineers took a pragmatic view and happily handed me resealing tabs whenever I needed them!
Also - LOVE Reuben's confidence on the camera already - perfect Artisan Aprrentice!
Thanks yeah he is awesome!
In Australia, we are required to install a meter isolator. It must go before the meter and before the main switch. It is in a separate cubical and away from final subcircuits. This way, consumer unit changes are simple (well - simpler)
wish I had someone teach me and go through testing and board changes etc. with me when I did my apprenticeship. Best of luck to Ruben hope he has a great apprenticeship and goes far with it!
Cant wait to see Reuben doing this work with his new apprentice.
Thank you so much for details 😍😍😍 it helped so much as like new a electrician like me.
Just watched the video - you look a lovely fella to have an apprentice to learn from - well done you 🙏
Shouldn't you have put some extra sleeving over that bell-wire, as otherwise it's single-insulated SELV within a mains enclosure ?
Shouldn't you mind your own business.
@@lewis94uk Nothing wrong with discussing installation practices
@@lewis94uk no it's a fair point tbh
Yeah he is right that’s what we usually do
Hi Mike - how’s it going……long time no see.
Enjoyed the vid! Really think it's cool how Reuben has the same haircut as Cory now, clearly looks up to him.
Cory just appropriate Jordan's (new van) Very nice job on the new Consumer unit change.
I recently got smart meters fitted by EON, and was pleasently surprised to see the subcontracted sparky fitting a nice new double pole isolator in place of the old one that had been fitted by SSE when I had electric storage heaters. That's up here in Scotland. Can't believe it's not a standard thing TBH
Had the opposite- the smart meter installer removed my isolator switch saying it was faulty anyway !
Had to specifically request it when I had a smart meter installed and the subcontractor was very surprised at the request!
I think it should be mandatory to fit an isolator when they are fitting a smart meter. Given the reason for smart meters or should I say excuse was that it will save us money, then how much could be saved by not having to call out the DNO when you want to work safely which is technically what you should do.
Ruben is legit a mini Cory.
One issue, the low voltage single insulated doorbell cable isn’t allowed within the CU, Efix have done a video on it.
👍
Another cracking job Cory, Rueben & Nathan (unseen behind camera). Appreciate the bell transformer replacement and glad it was changed, when we saw the overheating that it had been experiencing since install in 1995. Nest Smoke/CO alarms all networked and work brilliantly. Hypervolt EV Charger install now scheduled for 7 weeks time, so hope to see y'all then. Jessie (the Cocker Spaniel) is looking forward to being in the animal special, as she has just passed her Level 3 and Level 4 Scentwork UK exams.
Cool story about fuses. I asked my supplier about fitting a cutout so my electrician could work safely. They said we can send someone out to de energise and re energise if my electrician wasn't capable of pulling the main fuse.
Lovely video. Keep up the great work and the great content you provide 🙏
Ruben - Unscrew - its a thing dude - Screw off completely different. Great bit of training there guys well done Jordan, you're doing a great job loving the community feel.
Now a standard practice for me to fit an isolator when swapping a board out. It takes no time at all to fit and they don’t cost much. It saves that fuse falling out again in the future.
Going back a few years,the local leccy board new there was a problem with drawing the main fuse ,there solution was to give approved companies seals and a set of pliers with a number on them to reseal 👍
So you are teaching the apprentice to pull the main fuse? Which DNO supplies this installation and what is their standard procedure for fuse seals? 🐴
Beautiful! The neatness calms me - thanks x
I saw you straightening out wires inside the unit with those Knipex Bent Nose Pliers. I ought to get myself a pair!
I love the faceplate screws to be level too but I'm a horizontal kinda guy. Good job Ruben 🙌🏻
Looking for some advice, I have 3 appliances each allegedly consuming 3050 at maximum capacity, but the wires and my main feed to the consumer unit is getting so hot. I deliberately upgraded my consumer unit so it could handle these appliances. I installed the outlet (Specifically for these appliances) using Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a 50-amp breaker, then installed ANOTHER Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a another 50-amp breaker so there are now 2, one for two lower end of the consumer unit and the other for the higher end. Furthermore, I also have two BG 80A 30mA 2 Residual current device (RCD) installed on the consumer unit and the main feed that powers the consumer unit has a fuse of 100amps.
These appliances are in a container where I linked each outlet to one another so they can draw power from the first one (again, each has its own 50-amp breaker at the opposing side of the consumer unit, one for the upper side and one for the lower side), not sure if that is causing resistance as I even have the powercables with 13amp fuses to power those appliances, but since there is a 50amp breaker for each outlet, I’m still confused.
We should always test again after pulling out main fuse What do you think
Currently on my DEI course and love watching your videos! 👌
So is Reuben their apprentice now?that's awesome,last I knew,he was just doing some work experience,what a score,lucky lad!!⚡⚡⚡
The wiring is beautiful on that CU.
Setup a test bench and get Ruban to do a board change before and after his course. Think be will do a brilliant job seems to be picking it up so well !
It's spelled Rioux-Ben.
Top professional job really enjoyed watching, thank you .
Did you use a torque screwdriver on final settings in the consumer unit?
I like a big box, well an electrical panel or cabinet where the romex cables can be brought in and
easy to trace and see exactly where the wires are going to.
So enjoy watching you work you make it look so easy but I know it isn't unless you know what you are doing.
I never have understood why we don’t just fit an isolator for the main switch in the board how else can we do a board change without taking the main fuse out
Heyyy! Door edge trim! I use that too sometimes. Even fits round holes given they're wide enough.
What is the name of the short lead with the croc clips on used to link out between two conductors?
Another good reason to keep screw line vertical is so they don't rust as easily, when they are horizontal condensation and moisture can build up on them causing to rust quicker
Did the apprentice fill in the installation cert as I didn’t see it?
8:58 Big Breaker, Little Breaker... Cardboard Box? 😆😆😆
What about the WERA screwdriver with gears in the handle? Colleague has it and it’s great
Cory tried one and thought it was the worst tool Wera ever made.
@@stupot_64 what video?
@@user-wy4oy6di4x When they were installing an EV charger. Hope that narrows it down 🤣. But seriously. EV chargers on pods, the chaser with jorden working late
Cory...the automatic fast screwing driver I would recommend.. save on rsi ..Wera 827 T i Kraftform Turbo Hand Holder Screwdriver
I love how this video is obviously not supposed to be published yet but you put it in the recommendations card in the Van video. Almost feels like Patreon..
Also I think the "People seemed to enjoy the EICR video" is quite funny, because this video was uploaded before that video was published😉
Oops… thanks for the heads up 🤦♂️
More like this please, great video mate keep it up always love the content 👍
Hey Cory if the trim work it works 👍
And it’s definitely an earth drain on the van check the steer lock and stereo hasn’t got a stray live touching earth
Lovely and neat Cory..
What are those "tiny number labels ..and were u get them
Thanks 👍
Beautiful installation. I like that. I'm going to subscribe! :-) Greetings from Sweden.
Any chance of Reuben doing a board and either of you talk him through? Great video though
Large holes in the top . How do you seal that
I don't understand the issue here in UK about removing main fuses... in Portugal as example, if a registered sparky needs to isolate installation, they can call the DNO, read the seal data and if they match with whats on file, the DNO authorizes the sparky to break the seals and work safely. Sparky leaves the broken seals and DNO will pass by in a couple days to inspect /reseal.
All registered sparkies receive training to do it and obviously they must take responsibility for the work done. It works like this in alot of other countries.
In the end, the DNO wins as a lot of customers there update the meter boxes / mains fuse carriers to current specs at no cost to the DNO. Sometimes, if they are told in advance and it is an old installation they even send a new meter for the sparky to install...
Wish i had £5 in my pocket for every meter they sent in advance once we notified of works being done.. Maybe it is a insurance / liability here in UK?
Some of the DNO's have a similar procedure here - what you've seen in this video is bad practice.
@@efixx I do understand that, but still preferable than working with live installations.
Fix Or Repair Daily
BTW what are those pole fillers called? They look nice.
What is the 3 week course that you are putting Ruban on?
What’s are the number tags your using for the cables
Easi-lock slide on number tags , between £40-60 a box depending on source 👍🏼
@@Lineandsinker87 Could you pop down a link for them buddy? Struggling to find them online thankyou
Hellerman tyton
@@artisanelectrics champion thanks, keep up the solid work guys
Also on your impact driver there's a black switch on the bottom. Setting 1 is for precision, so lower RPM.
Different colour tape is the best way to label the wiring....Only 6mm=cooker, only 10mm=shower, blue=water heater, red=heating, grey=smoke alarm, white=lights, yellow =sockets etc. etc.
Have you ever thought about bringing a spark on-board that specialises in appliance repair? 😉
Great video as always.
Corey, I know someone who has just bought an electric Ford van, he bombs around Cambridge in it too!
Top 10 pets is an absolute essential episode
🤣👍
3 week course I employed one and he wanted to know where the boards were to mount all the stuff. He left very quickly and was told th get some experience as I didn't have time to teach him and pay him as a sparks
what was the thing you had with the cable idents
What tester do you use?
Great content guys. Standard of work is up there with the very best. This weekend Britihs and Irish lions vs South africa. All best cant wait for the game. Springboks all the way
that is a nice level. where did you find that. every level should come with led light
Does anyone know what cable cutters he uses ?
How is that plan to be given the new van going?
That "edge trim" is called "pinch weld" in Australia. been used for a few years now.
Known in my industry as "Porthole grommets"
Why in UK consumer units are in many cases so small. I (Finland) have a consumer unit in a detached house with 145 DIN module slots. OK it's a little too big, but I think 20-30 seats is the minimum. At the summer cottage, I have a total of 25 DIN module slots, of which 20 are in use. For example, there are usually only 2-3 sockets behind a single automatic fuse (in one room) or a single kitchen appliance such as a stove (3x16A), dishwashing machine or washing machine (16A every fuse). 10A automatic fuse are really only for lighting use.
Same in Poland. I've fitted a 160 module (8x20) board in my 200sqm house and it's just about the right size, with not much free space left. T1+T2 surge protector itself takes up 8 slots, there's a main isolator (3-pole since it's a 3-phase supply), 2 3-pole isolators (for sub-board in the utility room and sub-board in an outbuilding), fused isolator for the solar PV board, distribution block for power distribution within the board, several 2-pole RCDs for a few groups of circuits, 3-pole breaker for induction cooktop, DIN intercom transformer, a bunch of 1-pole breakers for several lighting circuits (2 per floor for the sake of avoiding total darkness if one trips), socket circuits (one per every room, outdoor sockets) and individually supplied appliances (dishwasher, oven, washer, dryer, alarm system, IT cabinet, gate opener). Apart from that there's another 3x18 sub-board in the utility room just for the utility room equipment (air-to-water heat pump, electric heating element in the water tank, ERV unit, central vac, with extra kWh meters to track energy consumption for heating and ventilation).
A 2x12 board with single or two RCDs and several breakers would be common in developer-grade 50sqm apartments with the most powerful appliance being the induction hob where hot water and heating are provided via district heat system, but it's impossible to fit all necessary equipment even in a small 100sqm house (even without electric heating and water) into anything smaller than 3x18 or 4x12 board without cutting too many corners. And since it's a standard these days to install heatpumps, AC and solar in new construction, much, much bigger boards are necessary.
I suppose in the UK ring circuits manage to limit the number of breakers for socket circuits. A single 32A ring in a kitchen can mitigate the need for individual radial circuits for big appliances (except for the hob). One 32A ring can also supply all upstairs bedroom sockets for example. It was designed for the sake of savings and apparently it does a pretty good job in this regard. With 16A radials many more circuits are necessary. Here it's considered "good practice" to install no more than 8-10 sockets per circuit in "normal" rooms (bedrooms, living rooms). That means one, maybe two rooms maximum per one circuit.
Don’t worry, Jordan said he’s got you a Cybertruck on order ; )
Hello everyone, quick question, is 37 too old to enter the sparkie trade??? Baring in mind current conditions etc
I started at 36. Just find a good college and get some work experience. It’s worth it fella
@@GenerateLance cheers dude. I did a carpentry qualification about 9 years ago. Was looking to add another skill under my belt.
Its a toss up between electrics and plumbing.
Great Vid.......What's the 4 day course you were on about? any links?
You don't need to lift the seat up in the van to jump start the engine . Ford have a plus contact from the battery which is under the bonnet . And sith the black -leed connect that to the body or some metal part on the engine
Reuben good lad dressing the screws in the face plates.
Get yourself a DeWalt DCF601 12v screwdriver, trigger speed is lower than the impact driver, so easier when working with delicate screws.
Thought about getting an electric van at all?
Got one arriving soon!
@Cory it’s like 30 degrees across the UK, why you got a puffer jacket on bro?😭😭
There's a bloke called Pablo who can sort out your isolation issues. He's available at extremely short notice and never too busy😉
i when i was working as a electrician, always used a proving unit on my mains tester before sticking on supposed live terminals. other than that , top job , i retired as a spark in 2015 after 40 years.
Thanks for the great video !
Cory, what is the bag and pouch you use?
Cooooreeeeeeyyyyyyyy!! Real gangster 😉 keep up the good work
Keep the van breakdowns coming and maybe you'll have van manufacturers including Ford offering to give you a new van. 😉😂😂😂
Do spiders count as pets?
In Australia, they come with dog collars.
You would think main isolators would be fitted as standard now and retrofitted as a legal requirement for just basics of safety more shut offs the better its like a tap. You got the tap itself then a valve under the sink to cut the tap off then you got valves before that sometimes to cut a room off then the main valve/stopcock
What 3 week course would Ruben be going on?🤔
I keep wincing at those screws just behind Cory's head, mind your head Cory!
The fuse must fall out, good vid👍
What are those goggles called please?
Cory, what watch are you wearing in these videos?
Great video really good to see confidence growing to. But most importantly!………. What work trousers are those?! (American journalist voice) ‘Cory who are you wearing!’
Blaklader
Got to love main dealers eh cory! I would never touch a ford these days, they have major security flaws. My friend has had 2 stolen in 3 years, people in the know can copy the ignition coding and literally drive ur van off. Last time was caught on premier inn cctv, 2 guys came into the car park with some kind of scanner, walked round the car park then disappeared for 30 mins. When they returned u see 2 vehicles unlock and they jumped straight in my mates custom and another wildtrak and drove off into the night.
Is that 12v "speaker wire" for the doorbell allowed inside the CU without being double insulated? not trying to be funny, just understand :-)
Start with teaching your apprentice how to hold a pen 😂
Keep up the good work 👍
He writes as if he was left handed. Wonder if his parents are southpaw?
Awesome job
That level is on a whole other....err level!!😂
That's the spirit!
Have customer call their electricity provider and ask for an isolator fitted? Then just book the job in once they have a date to avoid the potential nuisance that comes with pulling main fuse (even though I know you didn’t 😜)
Only costs about £75 maximum up north, sometimes no charge depending on the provider And usually done within a couple of weeks
We have 2 vans that have battery/alternator problems both Ford's