Specs say polycarbonate so I doubt it’s non combustible, but I’d say a similar enclosure is more for DB/CU carcasses with the likes of contactors and metering equipment inside.
Hint for the lines on the Wires: I usually use a thick Line to indicate 5 Lines, to make counting easier (4 same sized lines is the upper limit of what you can easily count at a glance. but 7 Lines could easily be confused for 6 and the other way around). It looks like this (up to 15): ▎ ▎▎ ▎▎▎ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ ▎ █ ▎▎ █ ▎▎▎ █ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ █ █ ▎ █ █ ▎▎ █ █ ▎▎▎ █ █ ▎▎▎▎ █ █ █
If you struggle to find the Wago range, Phoenix Contact make the same and I use the pre-printed circuit identifier label that clip in just under the small squares which are used with bridging combs to common up terminals. You could also mention the test point just above those squares. I use these extensively when building control panels, they are great.
Yeah, the products are equal - but Wago offer different sizes same Phoenix Contact. They offer 1to2 terminals too - so you can put a ring to this box and use one line to CU only. I think for more as 4 mm² (specially more as 10 mm²) is this a better solution. BTW: For testing are the holes - the red square are for put together more as one product with special nuts. 😉
Got a board change tomorrow morning, I’m going to use a sharpie to number the line conductors. I usually flag lines with insulation tape, its a nuisance if a tape breaks off whilst removing the old board👍👍
Brilliant for an installer, makes life a hell of a lot easier for sure.. I made my own one with din terminals a little while back to extend couple of ring main circuits. Downside will be its ugly and customers will not like a grey box housed on a wall in a hall way or lounge. Perfect for understair cupboards or housed in boxing in. 👍
Good to see a plastic din rail. Had a few condition reports when boards have being change just to find cpc with low readings due to metal din rail nice job and well done
The problem is that the grounded earth/saved earth was in the history one point for all together. It was never a problem to bonding it together till we create RCD's. I wonder why Wago not produce yellow-green products same the gray or blue in plastic only. A plastic DIN-Rail is a wonderful solution but IMHO not a correct way. I self would let in this parts how I use only, empty Wagos looks like something forgotten here. Do you can buy numbers for the Wagos so count it 1,2,3,4, aso. Then the table looks exact correct - nobody know the next electrician put it under or left and right. The only problem are the UK fire rating where do you should seal the hole. I am unhappy that CU should be metal for fire safety but here plastic is okay. Do you have crazy regulations in UK. Just a hint! 🤔🤑
Any regulatory reason why the Wagos are in LNE sequence rather than LEN which would match the T+E cables? Other than that, as long as cable bunching as part of the relocation doesn't open its own can of worms they look like a good piece of kit. I expect that high IP rating would also come in handy to correct some of the more controversial installs seen on UA-cam, where for example a room's been turned into a bathroom but the CU's still in there, just behind a panel.
Seeing this reminds me of the one Artisan did awhile back where they took radials from the new CU to one of these boxes where the rings where. Thankfully labelled up to test in future from the Wiska CURK. That said I feel like unless you can get 2 separate din rails top and bottom in there it's not actually big enough for most properties, not to mention if you have to size down for fine stranded conductors, wouldn't you just ferule them? Yes you can join the protective bonding conductor, it's just down to jointing method, my preferred methods are crimping or brazing. If you could run a new cable that would be preferred but cost and accessibility are the limiting factors.
Never used this one before but always had it in mind. A few other similar pieces of kit out there but this seems really well thought out and simple. Great video guys 👍
Those are great bits of kit, especially the ones with the lever Wago connections on the lower side. If I were to criticise one thing though compared to the previous box - I personally would have installed washers with the fixing screws to reduce any chance of the screw being pulled through if it bets bumped but other than that it was a flawless install!! Maybe i'd have left the wires a little longer too but that's just down to personal choice...👍
If I can remember rightly there is something in GN8 about main protective bonding conductors needing to be unbroken. But I'm sure somewhere in the Regs it contradicts that by an exemption if using MF connection or appropriate compression joint and it also being accessible for inspection.
Going to install one this week. Quality install by Rick w/ the usual excellent thought provoking commentary by Gaz. Now to head over to my Man, Mr Robinson, for the icing on the cake. Keep it up please- the good work, that is.
Would it make more sense to prep the enclosure with the new cabling in the connectors before offering it up? Makes it a lot easier to handle the cables rather than working with it in situ. Obviously it depends on the installation and where those cables run to after the trunking
As the regs require the consumer unit to be metal, surely that box should be metal as well? It has all the same circuits and twice as many terminations inside, and must represent a key risk area.
No breakers though ... Apparently the "source" of most CU fires by all accounts ... How ironic is that! Duh! Kind of makes my point that I have repeated ad nauseam for years ... Fit a disconnect temp sensor INSIDE the CU. Plastic needs a source of extreme heat (>200°C) to ignite. Remove the source of overheating LONG before it reaches that 200 plus temp (say 75°C) and PREVENT a fire from ever starting in the first place! None so blind as those who will not see!!
Interesting that in the UK everything needs to be metal and earthed. In Germany it's not required and most consumer units are isolated and also mostly plastic boxes.
@@scwfan08 Maybe German installers have a history of better installation work. We have a history of fires started by consumer units, mostly I think down to poorly made connections. Probably the same reason arc fault detectors are now bring introduced.
If the bonding conductor isn't needed, as the water pipe is plastic. Should the bonding conductor itself be connected to earth as I becomes an extraneous conductive part itself?
I'm probably missing something....🤔 What did you do with the incoming tails to feed the relocated board? I'm assuming if the new board is over 3m away from the head a switch fuse would be needed...
whats wromg? crabtree and wlex breakers in the same board bus bar missing dual rcd i have used onr of these in my own house and used the brother label printer with heat shrink lables to idernify the circuits at both ends should I ever sell thje property or other electrical work is required both ends have been identified. An epensive bit of kit when its possible to replicate for a cheaper price.
While this looks a nice idea, it's really only going to be useful for moving smaller or older boards that don't have too many circuits on. Given that RFCs take up two sets, it doesn't have to have many before there are not enough connections. (Yes you could mount two side by side but then the original cables likely won't reach into both) I've just relocated a standard 10 way Dual RCD board from a hallway to a cupboard for aesthetic purposes, and this would not have been adequate (3 x RFC, Oven, Shed, 3 x lighting circuits) even though the original board had two unused ways. Hopefully in time suppliers will stock wider boxes and let you mix and match the connectors to suit.
No reason you can't just buy the individual TOPJOB blocks and any size adaptable box with appropriate DIN rail - just a prebuilt kit of that at the end of the day
I would suggest some of those adhesive cable markers rolls for numbering, or at least use an X for 5 if using the line marking method,-save the headache of counting the damn things at the end..
They are ok, can't imagine a customer being too happy with one of those stuck in the middle of a hall or lounge wall, I always use a through crimp when joining a bonding conductor, I have seen people use a big connector or even an earth clamp chucked under the kitchen units.
Usually the tails and main cpc come through with circuits so they would have to be extended but no room. The middle blocks would be used for shower and cooker.
Great idea but if for instance this is located under the wooden staircase with it being plastic what’s the difference between a pvc fuse board and a pvc junction box????
What if you have to bring the tails through also and they were too short and the main earthing conductor but you were using the larger connections for cooker and shower
As you've mentioned in an eFIXX video back in April 2021, regulation 421.1.201 in BS7671 (17th) states that "Within domestic (household) premises, consumer units and similar switchgear assemblies shall comply with BS EN 61439-3 and shall: 1) Have their enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material, or 2) Be enclosed in a cabinet or enclosure constructed of non-combustible material and complying with Regulation 132.12 Note: Ferrous metal, e.g. steel, is deemed to be an example of a non-combustible material." For the purpose of the regulations, does the Wiska 818 consumer unit relocation kit not come under the classification of "similar switchgear assemblies"?
@@zoltrix7779 I should start by pointing out that I'm not an electrician by trade. To me it seems that in order to understand the regulation it helps to consider exactly why it exists and how there might be a difference in risk. I believe the following are the main drivers for this regulation specifically targeting plastic consumer units: 1) Consumer units in the UK are typically located in hidden areas (Under the stairs) or fire escape routes (By the front door, a hallway or under the stairs). 2) The risk from a large number of screw terminals (I.e. Not maintenance free). 3) The presence of particularly high currents in comparison to other locations. (80/100A for meter tails / bus bar, shower / cooker supplies) 4) The presence of MCBs which have to break high fault currents. I'm not entirely sure if all of these are drivers for this particular regulation, nor am I sure exactly what ordering they would be given or if I've missed any. Consumer unit relocation kits would appear to me to suffer from a couple of these risks: 1) They are typically used to relocate a consumer unit from an older traditional location and therefore remain located in these higher risk areas. 3) Not quite the same risk as the supply doesn't pass through this, but there are typically still going to be some high current circuits. #2 is not relevant for this Wiska 818 as maintenance free terminals are used, but if regular screw terminals were used then it would also apply #4 is not relevant for relocation It's an interesting point you make about it being a junction box, where do you draw the line? Is this a special case due to its location and higher currents?
@@yngndrw. I don't disagree with your points. It would probably be better for the regulation to cover this scenario specifically. The electrician really, should not have to understand why a regulation is what it is (even though, in practice, they do understand why most regulations are what they are for due to training), just follow it to the letter, or at the very least, to the best of their ability. I don't think it is clear enough to expect an electrician to use a metal enclosure. However, I am sure many would choose to do so, just to be on the safe side.
The connections in the junction box are simple through connections. In a consumer unit you are distributing power from higher current terminals to lower current ones.
@@efixx Interesting point but where do you stop, would a spur off a socket on an RFC come under the metal enclosure requirement as there is switching and higher to lower current circuits?
When relocating like this obviously at some point cable calcs were measured and correction factors applied so does this matter now that you have chabged this over an placed all that cable in one trunking? surely you are changing the way the cables are now run so there may be a concern with the cooker cable for instance? I know it will depend on the run to the new board also but please explain thx
the new board you installed for this installation was it metallic if so why not a metallic enclosure for the wagos almost as many terminations with a chance to go wrong
Please let me know the difference between a bad joint causing a fire in a plastic juntion box and a plastic fuse board. Causing the same problem. Would it be beter to use a metal enclosure for the juntion box.
Are these relocation boxes maintenance free so they can be hidden in the ceiling? Or would I be better to use MF junction boxes on all the circuits maybe?
My 2 pennies worth. Open wall up wider & square where cables end , joint cables as required with over sleeve to maintain insulation required push back into cavity , flat access plate on wall new cables jointed to new location simple! Over thinking this job with unnecessary likely expensive extra parts. Also leaving a big box on the wall .
Hello, I have a quick question about the regs, I am thinking of having the consumer unit modernized but would it be possible to place an isolator switch between it and the mains? As this would make it much safer to work on it afterwards.
A REC isolator is what you're looking for. Despite REC standing for Regional Electricity Company they're not the sole supplier of them; even Screwfix do them (part 321FR). There are also 3- or 4-pole versions available for polyphase or Economy 7 installations. They also make it easier if the tails to the new consumer unit would need to be extended, as the existing tails can simply be brought into the isolator and new tails run from there to the new board. No opening of the meter cover, no tripping of the meter cover tamper switch.
10y ago I had to swap my CU. I built the new CU on a bit of 18mm ply and mounted a DIN box next to it on the on the ply and wired the two on the Kitchen table. Was very easy. Then mounted on the wall as one unit and terminated the cable runs in to the din box All very neat. All very well labelled. All safe. All easy to maintain. Several reasons I did this. But afterwards I wondered why everyone doesn’t do this ? Space I suppose 🤷♂️ but it didn’t take too much more space.
I asked the same question, usually the tails come through with the rest of the circuits and the main earthing conductor. Also you would normally have a shower circuit and a cooker circuit so I'm guessing you would have to through crimp the tails and main earth if you couldn't pull new ones through from outside and they would have to come over the top of the wagos as there isn't room down the side
I expect the reason for the unit not being metal is that unless connected via flylead to a CPC or the equipotential bond, how would the case be earthed? I‘m surprised the rear entry cuts were not filed-down then intumescantly sealed as well as the mounting screws without washers. Surely the TopJobs should be LEN rather than LNE, as PVC PVC twin and CPC cable is in such an order. Will have to read the item specs online to determine if MF.
If the run between this and the new CU location was entirely through trunking I'd be tempted to use singles for the extensions, just that little bit easier to handle than T&E. Is there any reason in regulations not to?
It may be easier to handle in one aspect, but on the other, imagine replacing that consumer unit some time, let alone going from not to an RCBO board… that would be an utter nightmare. Having the wires of the various circuits physically grouped is something that makes things a lot easier to handle.
@@andrewchilcott5312 No, I don't think so. 416.2.4 is about the use of a tool to remove part of an enclosure providing protection. It's to do with preventing electric shock risk, by people, even children opening up an enclosure where there are live terminals or joints inside. When you run PVC singles in conduit, the conduit is providing mechanical protection and there is no possibility of getting at any live parts unless the person cuts through the PVC single, but that then is a very deliberate act. If however, you joint a PVC single in a conduit then that's a different matter. But ideally you wouldn't do that anyway.
The wiska relocation boxes are a great idea but are pretty limited at 10 circuits, also there is no provision for rear entry and the 20mm knockouts if all used are still not enough for the cables, using 2 of them at nearly £100 each is a bit over the top for most customers, so wiska please make the boxes bigger with rear entry and more knockouts please.
Panel wiring termination blocks ,was wiring them on naval ships 30 years ago ,cables were all black and we had to tag them with number sleeves ,house wiring is nothing compared to ships control wiring systems ,440v,240v,115v
That'll be why at least one royal navy ship needed a major electrical system overhaul last year, after a number of faults causing fires and phantom crossed phases. (Not really sure if I'm allowed to say which one)
What's the point in moving the consumer unit, if your just going to replace it with another box and surface mounted trunking? The only reason i'd move mine, is to hide it better..
You marked up the cables with lines to indicate where they go, but then snipped off the part with the lines. I guess a scrap off paper was off camera noting which cable was going where.
Just out off intrest why can this be plastic when fuse has to be metal, yet they have the current/ voltage going through them, makes little sense to me.
I might be being stupid here, but I don't see the purpose in this. You still have a box on the wall and are running cables to the new location anyway. Why not just put a larger board in the same location and run the additional circuits back to it.
Agreed it would have been useful to explain the reason to move the consumer unit. Usually I see this solution, as in my case, because the existing runs won’t reach the extra few inches to where the new Cu needs to be mounted. 🤷♂️
With things like SPD's and the increase in circuits sometimes you need a larger board, some older boards are put in cupboards or even the meter box where even if you wanted to there physically is not enough room so the consumer unit needs to be moved.. It is relatively rare..
Just a question that only just occurred to me ... Why "move" the CU if all you're going to do is replace it with **another** box occupying the same space? There are usually two reasons for wanting to move a CU: 1. Convenience of a better location 2. Being able to free the space occupied for **other** purposes This method provides no help for the latter however. Isn't it about time that extending cables with appropriate simple, reliable, in line connectors was sorted out? The poor consumer has to pay enough for Microsoft bloat without domestic wiring doing the same! 🤔🙄
the 2 reasons you gave are 2 of the least used due to cost of relocation the most common 2 are home renovations/conversions and the second is because the current consumer unit is no longer fit for use and the new one wont fit in its place so the new one has to be installed only a short distance away the fast connections of the wiska allow for a regulation approved connection meaning your home is in less chance of (a) catching fire or (b) having wiring faults. sounds a good reason to hit the consumer with another small charge instead of him paying a large bill out in the future us sparks are only looking out for ya wellness.
Why is this plastic box acceptable when plastic consumer units are frowned on? I know breakers can burn up but so can a bad connector, and there are a lot in there.
Because the fire brigade identified that many house fires were being caused by increased resistance in the terminals in the consumer units, so they asked for metal consumer units. And it is not that plastic consumer units are frowned upon, it's stronger than that: they are not allowed to be used. Full stop . But there is no obligation to upgrade existing installed plastic consumer units to metal.
@@charliedecker7702 Not true. In situations that require a consumer unit to be replaced the new consumer unit should comply with BS EN 61439-3 and Regulation 421.1. 201 which requires the consumer unit to have its enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material or be enclosed in a cabinet made of non-combustible material. Ok, that requirement doesn't exclude plastic if the plastic is non combustible. I don't know if there are any such consumer units fabricated from a non combustible plastic. But what you can't do is use a conventional plastic CU of the type that has been in use for decades. As they are combustible. Theoretically you could install a plastic CU and encase it in a metal box. But why would you when you could buy a non combustible type? Saying "you can use plastic still" is misleading. It gives the impression people can go out and buy them and use them. Such a statement *must* be qualified with the restriction around their use. I would suggest most CU installations across the country are not in non combustible boxes, so it's not appropriate therefore to state "you can still use plastic".
This are normed colour. green/yellow are for CPC/saved earth blue are for neutrals All other Wago use grey - do you can put "L1", "L2", "L3" or "1", "2", aso. on it if you need it. Do you can buy other colours too - but you must buy more as 10 pieces if Wago produces it for you. I self use for new colour scheme just spray colour cans - so L1, L2, L3 are brown, black, grey same the cables colour scheme. Or red for fire alarm, green for data power, aso. If the boss pay for everything it is not a problem - only your solution how creative you are. 🤗👍
Surely it defeats the object? If you need to relocate it, it usually because it's in the way, all you're doing is replacing the consumer unit with another box that's in the way????
Nice bit of kit. What are your thoughts on the enclosure being plastic? I think the ref states something along the lines of consumer units and similar enclosures in domestics should be non combustible. I guess with all connections being non-screw this reduces risks of poor connections.
Also im pretty sure this is selt-extinguishing Plastic. This basically means it will combust while inside an open Flame, but as soon as you remove the Flame it will extinguish itself.
Wiska 818 Consumer Unit relocation kit
hub.efixx.co.uk/wiska-818
@@gadgetman36 may be non combustible?
Specs say polycarbonate so I doubt it’s non combustible, but I’d say a similar enclosure is more for DB/CU carcasses with the likes of contactors and metering equipment inside.
Would it need any kind of intumescent seal where the old cable exit through the plaster board void into the box?
@@rp8068 I’d be heavily inclined to.
Hint for the lines on the Wires: I usually use a thick Line to indicate 5 Lines, to make counting easier (4 same sized lines is the upper limit of what you can easily count at a glance. but 7 Lines could easily be confused for 6 and the other way around).
It looks like this (up to 15):
▎
▎▎
▎▎▎
▎▎▎▎
█
█ ▎
█ ▎▎
█ ▎▎▎
█ ▎▎▎▎
█ █
█ █ ▎
█ █ ▎▎
█ █ ▎▎▎
█ █ ▎▎▎▎
█ █ █
That’s a good idea may have to give it a try
I will tell Rick 👍🏻
Good idea, I'm having it!
Great tally replacement :-)
I tend to use one along the length of the cable rather than a thick line.
If you struggle to find the Wago range, Phoenix Contact make the same and I use the pre-printed circuit identifier label that clip in just under the small squares which are used with bridging combs to common up terminals. You could also mention the test point just above those squares. I use these extensively when building control panels, they are great.
Yeah, the products are equal - but Wago offer different sizes same Phoenix Contact. They offer 1to2 terminals too - so you can put a ring to this box and use one line to CU only. I think for more as 4 mm² (specially more as 10 mm²) is this a better solution.
BTW: For testing are the holes - the red square are for put together more as one product with special nuts. 😉
Got a board change tomorrow morning, I’m going to use a sharpie to number the line conductors. I usually flag lines with insulation tape, its a nuisance if a tape breaks off whilst removing the old board👍👍
Brilliant for an installer, makes life a hell of a lot easier for sure.. I made my own one with din terminals a little while back to extend couple of ring main circuits. Downside will be its ugly and customers will not like a grey box housed on a wall in a hall way or lounge. Perfect for understair cupboards or housed in boxing in. 👍
Wherever it is, it will probably be less obtrusive than the CU it's replacing!
Good to see a plastic din rail. Had a few condition reports when boards have being change just to find cpc with low readings due to metal din rail nice job and well done
The problem is that the grounded earth/saved earth was in the history one point for all together. It was never a problem to bonding it together till we create RCD's. I wonder why Wago not produce yellow-green products same the gray or blue in plastic only. A plastic DIN-Rail is a wonderful solution but IMHO not a correct way.
I self would let in this parts how I use only, empty Wagos looks like something forgotten here. Do you can buy numbers for the Wagos so count it 1,2,3,4, aso. Then the table looks exact correct - nobody know the next electrician put it under or left and right.
The only problem are the UK fire rating where do you should seal the hole. I am unhappy that CU should be metal for fire safety but here plastic is okay. Do you have crazy regulations in UK. Just a hint! 🤔🤑
I would have thougt that a non bonded version of the DIN rail connector would be available in earth colours.
Any regulatory reason why the Wagos are in LNE sequence rather than LEN which would match the T+E cables?
Other than that, as long as cable bunching as part of the relocation doesn't open its own can of worms they look like a good piece of kit. I expect that high IP rating would also come in handy to correct some of the more controversial installs seen on UA-cam, where for example a room's been turned into a bathroom but the CU's still in there, just behind a panel.
Seeing this reminds me of the one Artisan did awhile back where they took radials from the new CU to one of these boxes where the rings where. Thankfully labelled up to test in future from the Wiska CURK. That said I feel like unless you can get 2 separate din rails top and bottom in there it's not actually big enough for most properties, not to mention if you have to size down for fine stranded conductors, wouldn't you just ferule them?
Yes you can join the protective bonding conductor, it's just down to jointing method, my preferred methods are crimping or brazing. If you could run a new cable that would be preferred but cost and accessibility are the limiting factors.
Never used this one before but always had it in mind. A few other similar pieces of kit out there but this seems really well thought out and simple. Great video guys 👍
Thanks
You can extend a main equipotential protective bonding conductor if you use a crimp connection. Same would apply to the earthing conductor
Those are great bits of kit, especially the ones with the lever Wago connections on the lower side. If I were to criticise one thing though compared to the previous box - I personally would have installed washers with the fixing screws to reduce any chance of the screw being pulled through if it bets bumped but other than that it was a flawless install!! Maybe i'd have left the wires a little longer too but that's just down to personal choice...👍
Great video the Wago box looks a brilliant idea, why is it not regs to be made of metal
I would use a crimp connector with a bit of heat shink for extending a bonding conductor so it can be said to be permanent.
I confeus (You removed the all breakers ) you tell clear .. This is a breaker? If are shot circuit .so ther cut off my indoor spley ?
I recently found this channel and i'm really pleased with the quality! Thank you guys :)
Ahh finally someone who pronounces Wago the right way!
If I can remember rightly there is something in GN8 about main protective bonding conductors needing to be unbroken. But I'm sure somewhere in the Regs it contradicts that by an exemption if using MF connection or appropriate compression joint and it also being accessible for inspection.
Are these extension boxes used in a set-and-forget manner, or does one to have check the connections as part of e.g. an eicr?
Going to install one this week.
Quality install by Rick w/ the usual excellent thought provoking commentary by Gaz. Now to head over to my Man, Mr Robinson, for the icing on the cake. Keep it up please- the good work, that is.
I have been making these for years using an adaptable box and Klippon terminals.
Would it make more sense to prep the enclosure with the new cabling in the connectors before offering it up? Makes it a lot easier to handle the cables rather than working with it in situ. Obviously it depends on the installation and where those cables run to after the trunking
As the regs require the consumer unit to be metal, surely that box should be metal as well? It has all the same circuits and twice as many terminations inside, and must represent a key risk area.
No breakers though ... Apparently the "source" of most CU fires by all accounts ... How ironic is that! Duh!
Kind of makes my point that I have repeated ad nauseam for years ... Fit a disconnect temp sensor INSIDE the CU. Plastic needs a source of extreme heat (>200°C) to ignite. Remove the source of overheating LONG before it reaches that 200 plus temp (say 75°C) and PREVENT a fire from ever starting in the first place! None so blind as those who will not see!!
Interesting that in the UK everything needs to be metal and earthed. In Germany it's not required and most consumer units are isolated and also mostly plastic boxes.
@@scwfan08 Maybe German installers have a history of better installation work. We have a history of fires started by consumer units, mostly I think down to poorly made connections. Probably the same reason arc fault detectors are now bring introduced.
@@scwfan08 every system in whatever country you’re in, must be earthed
@@daron8982
Not if it's protection class 2 which most consumer units are here
If the bonding conductor isn't needed, as the water pipe is plastic. Should the bonding conductor itself be connected to earth as I becomes an extraneous conductive part itself?
I'm probably missing something....🤔
What did you do with the incoming tails to feed the relocated board?
I'm assuming if the new board is over 3m away from the head a switch fuse would be needed...
Never used 1 before and just about to hope it goes as easy as on this video but looks great
whats wromg? crabtree and wlex breakers in the same board bus bar missing dual rcd
i have used onr of these in my own house and used the brother label printer with heat shrink lables to idernify the circuits at both ends should I ever sell thje property or other electrical work is required both ends have been identified.
An epensive bit of kit when its possible to replicate for a cheaper price.
While this looks a nice idea, it's really only going to be useful for moving smaller or older boards that don't have too many circuits on. Given that RFCs take up two sets, it doesn't have to have many before there are not enough connections. (Yes you could mount two side by side but then the original cables likely won't reach into both)
I've just relocated a standard 10 way Dual RCD board from a hallway to a cupboard for aesthetic purposes, and this would not have been adequate (3 x RFC, Oven, Shed, 3 x lighting circuits) even though the original board had two unused ways.
Hopefully in time suppliers will stock wider boxes and let you mix and match the connectors to suit.
im pretty sure they have different sizes of the relocation kit
No reason you can't just buy the individual TOPJOB blocks and any size adaptable box with appropriate DIN rail - just a prebuilt kit of that at the end of the day
@@intercity125 just make sure you get a plastic din rail and/or use grey blocks for the earths.
I would suggest some of those adhesive cable markers rolls for numbering, or at least use an X for 5 if using the line marking method,-save the headache of counting the damn things at the end..
I will tell Rick 👍🏻
Majority of customers want the CU moving because they don't want an ugly box on the wall in that position though.
They are ok, can't imagine a customer being too happy with one of those stuck in the middle of a hall or lounge wall, I always use a through crimp when joining a bonding conductor, I have seen people use a big connector or even an earth clamp chucked under the kitchen units.
Agreed a flush version would go along way.
Even so, it's not going to look any worse than the CU that it's replacing.
@@Rosscoff2000 yeah it is
Usually the tails and main cpc come through with circuits so they would have to be extended but no room. The middle blocks would be used for shower and cooker.
Are those meter tails in the consumer unit isolated from the main switch or would they still be livd even after isolating the main switch in the CU?
I love these din rail terminal blocks. I've just ordered some and looking forward to using them.
Great idea but if for instance this is located under the wooden staircase with it being plastic what’s the difference between a pvc fuse board and a pvc junction box????
Can I use this to extend 3phase circuits for a 3 phase board relocation. As the circuits are not long enough for the new board?
Only a small point. On the upper cables I would sleeve the reds with brown sleeve, and the blacks with blue. Maybe ott? Fantastic video though guys.
What if you have to bring the tails through also and they were too short and the main earthing conductor but you were using the larger connections for cooker and shower
As you've mentioned in an eFIXX video back in April 2021, regulation 421.1.201 in BS7671 (17th) states that "Within domestic (household) premises, consumer units and similar switchgear assemblies shall comply with BS EN 61439-3 and shall:
1) Have their enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material, or
2) Be enclosed in a cabinet or enclosure constructed of non-combustible material and complying with Regulation 132.12
Note: Ferrous metal, e.g. steel, is deemed to be an example of a non-combustible material."
For the purpose of the regulations, does the Wiska 818 consumer unit relocation kit not come under the classification of "similar switchgear assemblies"?
Hmmm... interesting. But I guess is not a switchgear assembly. Its a junction box. That is how I read it.
@@zoltrix7779 I should start by pointing out that I'm not an electrician by trade.
To me it seems that in order to understand the regulation it helps to consider exactly why it exists and how there might be a difference in risk. I believe the following are the main drivers for this regulation specifically targeting plastic consumer units:
1) Consumer units in the UK are typically located in hidden areas (Under the stairs) or fire escape routes (By the front door, a hallway or under the stairs).
2) The risk from a large number of screw terminals (I.e. Not maintenance free).
3) The presence of particularly high currents in comparison to other locations. (80/100A for meter tails / bus bar, shower / cooker supplies)
4) The presence of MCBs which have to break high fault currents.
I'm not entirely sure if all of these are drivers for this particular regulation, nor am I sure exactly what ordering they would be given or if I've missed any.
Consumer unit relocation kits would appear to me to suffer from a couple of these risks:
1) They are typically used to relocate a consumer unit from an older traditional location and therefore remain located in these higher risk areas.
3) Not quite the same risk as the supply doesn't pass through this, but there are typically still going to be some high current circuits.
#2 is not relevant for this Wiska 818 as maintenance free terminals are used, but if regular screw terminals were used then it would also apply
#4 is not relevant for relocation
It's an interesting point you make about it being a junction box, where do you draw the line? Is this a special case due to its location and higher currents?
@@yngndrw. I don't disagree with your points. It would probably be better for the regulation to cover this scenario specifically. The electrician really, should not have to understand why a regulation is what it is (even though, in practice, they do understand why most regulations are what they are for due to training), just follow it to the letter, or at the very least, to the best of their ability. I don't think it is clear enough to expect an electrician to use a metal enclosure. However, I am sure many would choose to do so, just to be on the safe side.
The connections in the junction box are simple through connections. In a consumer unit you are distributing power from higher current terminals to lower current ones.
@@efixx Interesting point but where do you stop, would a spur off a socket on an RFC come under the metal enclosure requirement as there is switching and higher to lower current circuits?
I’ve used the other version, and found it a bit cramped.
This one looks much better.
When relocating like this obviously at some point cable calcs were measured and correction factors applied so does this matter now that you have chabged this over an placed all that cable in one trunking? surely you are changing the way the cables are now run so there may be a concern with the cooker cable for instance? I know it will depend on the run to the new board also but please explain thx
the new board you installed for this installation
was it metallic
if so why not a metallic enclosure for the wagos
almost as many terminations with a chance to go wrong
It doesn’t contain any circuit breakers etc so doesn’t need to be metal.
As you open it up I'm thinking should this Wiska 818 enclosure be made of metal?
😂😂😂 Never did I think you’d mention 2pac and Elton John…. Fair play I love the videos. 👍👍
Please let me know the difference between a bad joint causing a fire in a plastic juntion box and a plastic fuse board. Causing the same problem. Would it be beter to use a metal enclosure for the juntion box.
Consumer units contain MCBs, RCDs etc which create heat as part of there operation.
@@efixxA high resistant joint could also cause fires in a plastic enclosure. A metal enclosure would stop the of such a problem.
I do put numbered sleeves on the wires when reconnecting with a schedule sticker
👍🏻
What cable strippers being used?
Thanks
Lovin the fully insulated gloves :)
Are these relocation boxes maintenance free so they can be hidden in the ceiling? Or would I be better to use MF junction boxes on all the circuits maybe?
My 2 pennies worth. Open wall up wider & square where cables end , joint cables as required with over sleeve to maintain insulation required push back into cavity , flat access plate on wall new cables jointed to new location simple! Over thinking this job with unnecessary likely expensive extra parts. Also leaving a big box on the wall .
Do your regs have anything to say about raceway overfill?
Is the Neutral switched at the main Switch ? Illegal here i NZ & Aus
All well and good but what about when the main tails are now to short too
Very neat work. only thing I would change is to have 7 round hole's at top of box as to the slot.
Hi What label printer do you use to create the board schedule?
Moving a fuse box but still you left big box on the wall any different idea to no live a electric art in a middle of the wall?
I'm guessing the reason for replacing the consumer unit is the lack of spare ways and only type ac rcds? I notice the breakers are a different make.
Hello, I have a quick question about the regs, I am thinking of having the consumer unit modernized but would it be possible to place an isolator switch between it and the mains? As this would make it much safer to work on it afterwards.
Yes
A REC isolator is what you're looking for. Despite REC standing for Regional Electricity Company they're not the sole supplier of them; even Screwfix do them (part 321FR). There are also 3- or 4-pole versions available for polyphase or Economy 7 installations. They also make it easier if the tails to the new consumer unit would need to be extended, as the existing tails can simply be brought into the isolator and new tails run from there to the new board. No opening of the meter cover, no tripping of the meter cover tamper switch.
Many CU's contain a double pole isolator. You don't necessarily need a separate one.
10y ago I had to swap my CU. I built the new CU on a bit of 18mm ply and mounted a DIN box next to it on the on the ply and wired the two on the Kitchen table. Was very easy. Then mounted on the wall as one unit and terminated the cable runs in to the din box
All very neat. All very well labelled. All safe. All easy to maintain.
Several reasons I did this. But afterwards I wondered why everyone doesn’t do this ? Space I suppose 🤷♂️ but it didn’t take too much more space.
They need to just make a bigger box with more ways, much cheaper to buy an adaptable box and a box of wagos
What is that wire stripper by the way?
What happened to the mains tails and main earth? Do we assume theses went into service blocks below? (Sorry if I missed this).
I asked the same question, usually the tails come through with the rest of the circuits and the main earthing conductor. Also you would normally have a shower circuit and a cooker circuit so I'm guessing you would have to through crimp the tails and main earth if you couldn't pull new ones through from outside and they would have to come over the top of the wagos as there isn't room down the side
Are there alternatives on the UK?
Hi Guys. Do you undertake domestic installation jobs in Southampton area? Thanks
Wiska is only for 10 way board but what about if you want to move 20 way board or 3 phase pannel 30-35 circuits ????🤔🤔🤔 you will need a bigger wiska
or several?
There are plenty of larger alternatives from different manufacturers readily available.
Hello, Thank you for the video and information. Sincerely, Antonio❤
This is gorgeous, thanks for great work.
I expect the reason for the unit not being metal is that unless connected via flylead to a CPC or the equipotential bond, how would the case be earthed? I‘m surprised the rear entry cuts were not filed-down then intumescantly sealed as well as the mounting screws without washers. Surely the TopJobs should be LEN rather than LNE, as PVC PVC twin and CPC cable is in such an order. Will have to read the item specs online to determine if MF.
Just called Wiska UK - they confirmed the unit is MF and can be mounted behind plasterboard etc.
If the run between this and the new CU location was entirely through trunking I'd be tempted to use singles for the extensions, just that little bit easier to handle than T&E. Is there any reason in regulations not to?
It may be easier to handle in one aspect, but on the other, imagine replacing that consumer unit some time, let alone going from not to an RCBO board… that would be an utter nightmare. Having the wires of the various circuits physically grouped is something that makes things a lot easier to handle.
Thanks for adding your thoughts 👍🏻
I think you could only use singles if the trunking can only be opened with a tool rather than just fingers
@@andrewchilcott5312 No, I don't think so. 416.2.4 is about the use of a tool to remove part of an enclosure providing protection.
It's to do with preventing electric shock risk, by people, even children opening up an enclosure where there are live terminals or joints inside.
When you run PVC singles in conduit, the conduit is providing mechanical protection and there is no possibility of getting at any live parts unless the person cuts through the PVC single, but that then is a very deliberate act.
If however, you joint a PVC single in a conduit then that's a different matter. But ideally you wouldn't do that anyway.
The wiska relocation boxes are a great idea but are pretty limited at 10 circuits, also there is no provision for rear entry and the 20mm knockouts if all used are still not enough for the cables, using 2 of them at nearly £100 each is a bit over the top for most customers, so wiska please make the boxes bigger with rear entry and more knockouts please.
What about the other leg of 16mm CPC ?
Be good if it was metal not plastic being as we have to fit a metal dB .....
I would love it if these kits were ULc or CSA listed like the wago connectors are.
Surely two of those neutral connections in the board had to much conductor exposed ?
Panel wiring termination blocks ,was wiring them on naval ships 30 years ago ,cables were all black and we had to tag them with number sleeves ,house wiring is nothing compared to ships control wiring systems ,440v,240v,115v
That'll be why at least one royal navy ship needed a major electrical system overhaul last year, after a number of faults causing fires and phantom crossed phases. (Not really sure if I'm allowed to say which one)
What is the maximum length you can extend a consumer unit ?
Thank you
All down to the circuit design for volt drop.
What's the point in moving the consumer unit, if your just going to replace it with another box and surface mounted trunking? The only reason i'd move mine, is to hide it better..
You marked up the cables with lines to indicate where they go, but then snipped off the part with the lines. I guess a scrap off paper was off camera noting which cable was going where.
Just out off intrest why can this be plastic when fuse has to be metal, yet they have the current/ voltage going through them, makes little sense to me.
Great video, as usual. This WAGO box is too small for larger installations and is not visually pleasant in domestic Hallways.
SHOULD THE EXTENSION BOX ALSO BE METAL?
ua-cam.com/video/E2p5ZZJNp30/v-deo.html
soooooooo 18th require a metal CU, but then you install a plastic intermediate junction for all the same conductors, go figure ?? what am i missing ?
I might be being stupid here, but I don't see the purpose in this. You still have a box on the wall and are running cables to the new location anyway. Why not just put a larger board in the same location and run the additional circuits back to it.
Agreed it would have been useful to explain the reason to move the consumer unit.
Usually I see this solution, as in my case, because the existing runs won’t reach the extra few inches to where the new Cu needs to be mounted.
🤷♂️
With things like SPD's and the increase in circuits sometimes you need a larger board, some older boards are put in cupboards or even the meter box where even if you wanted to there physically is not enough room so the consumer unit needs to be moved.. It is relatively rare..
@@steve11211 It's on a big empty wall 🤷♂️
@@solidus784 in this case yes but they’re just showing off the unit, it’s up to you if and where you use it
@@12000gp Yeah clearly they are demoing the unit , but it looks like a real installation to me and not a workbench hence my origiinal question
Just a question that only just occurred to me ... Why "move" the CU if all you're going to do is replace it with **another** box occupying the same space?
There are usually two reasons for wanting to move a CU:
1. Convenience of a better location
2. Being able to free the space occupied for **other** purposes
This method provides no help for the latter however. Isn't it about time that extending cables with appropriate simple, reliable, in line connectors was sorted out? The poor consumer has to pay enough for Microsoft bloat without domestic wiring doing the same! 🤔🙄
the 2 reasons you gave are 2 of the least used due to cost of relocation the most common 2 are home renovations/conversions and the second is because the current consumer unit is no longer fit for use and the new one wont fit in its place so the new one has to be installed only a short distance away the fast connections of the wiska allow for a regulation approved connection meaning your home is in less chance of (a) catching fire or (b) having wiring faults. sounds a good reason to hit the consumer with another small charge instead of him paying a large bill out in the future us sparks are only looking out for ya wellness.
Interesting decision. Never seen anything like it.
there is red and black wires old and new addition both ...why is this.?
I think once renovated wiring. ...
need to get access to this stuff down under
Manufacture an entry point?
So given the latest regs require a metal enclosed consumer unit, surely this relocation kit must follow the same idea?
Good detailed video!
Massive thanks 👍🏻
Great video..
Thanks Nigel 👍🏻
Why is this plastic box acceptable when plastic consumer units are frowned on? I know breakers can burn up but so can a bad connector, and there are a lot in there.
Because the fire brigade identified that many house fires were being caused by increased resistance in the terminals in the consumer units, so they asked for metal consumer units.
And it is not that plastic consumer units are frowned upon, it's stronger than that: they are not allowed to be used. Full stop .
But there is no obligation to upgrade existing installed plastic consumer units to metal.
@@deang5622 not true ,you can use plastic still.
@@charliedecker7702 Not true.
In situations that require a consumer unit to be replaced the new consumer unit should comply with BS EN 61439-3 and Regulation 421.1. 201 which requires the consumer unit to have its enclosure manufactured from non-combustible material or be enclosed in a cabinet made of non-combustible material.
Ok, that requirement doesn't exclude plastic if the plastic is non combustible.
I don't know if there are any such consumer units fabricated from a non combustible plastic.
But what you can't do is use a conventional plastic CU of the type that has been in use for decades. As they are combustible.
Theoretically you could install a plastic CU and encase it in a metal box. But why would you when you could buy a non combustible type?
Saying "you can use plastic still" is misleading. It gives the impression people can go out and buy them and use them.
Such a statement *must* be qualified with the restriction around their use.
I would suggest most CU installations across the country are not in non combustible boxes, so it's not appropriate therefore to state "you can still use plastic".
Spot on save you having to make one up from scratch
Is there a reason why the live is grey?
This are normed colour.
green/yellow are for CPC/saved earth
blue are for neutrals
All other Wago use grey - do you can put "L1", "L2", "L3" or "1", "2", aso. on it if you need it.
Do you can buy other colours too - but you must buy more as 10 pieces if Wago produces it for you.
I self use for new colour scheme just spray colour cans - so L1, L2, L3 are brown, black, grey same the cables colour scheme. Or red for fire alarm, green for data power, aso.
If the boss pay for everything it is not a problem - only your solution how creative you are. 🤗👍
I wonder why the live connector isn't brown?
TIA
It uses old color code with red for live and black for neutral
Dit is niet verplaatsen maar meer een tussen kast plaatsen om de boel ergens anders te kunnen ophangen.
Shame quickwire don't do 2.5, 4, and 6mm2 joiners and you could just extend all the cables hidden in the wall.
Surely it defeats the object? If you need to relocate it, it usually because it's in the way, all you're doing is replacing the consumer unit with another box that's in the way????
Nice bit of kit. What are your thoughts on the enclosure being plastic? I think the ref states something along the lines of consumer units and similar enclosures in domestics should be non combustible. I guess with all connections being non-screw this reduces risks of poor connections.
Switchgear or similar. Spring contact connectors aren't switchgear...
Also im pretty sure this is selt-extinguishing Plastic. This basically means it will combust while inside an open Flame, but as soon as you remove the Flame it will extinguish itself.
Nice 👌🏼
Good job .
Seems funny , we have to install a metal consumer unit , yet all the joints for a board can be in this plastic enclosure
Wiska Consumer Unit Relocation Kit FFS IN REAL TERMS A JUNCTION BOX