As a responsible Handyman I watch all your videos for information to pass onto my clients, also to deter them from attempting electrical work themselves, I like to stay up to date with regs but know my limitations, thank for the videos.
good man. i'm a fairly enthusiastic DIYer and i've worked in construction on and off over the years, but there are two things i never fuck with: electricity and plumbing. both of them should always be left to professionals, imo
I’m not a sparkie but I’ve always wondered what was inside the consumer unit ! People should watch this next time they moan about having to pay an electrician to do work .... very skilled work. Great video chaps ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Good luck with your studies and I hope my videos will help you in some small way. If you can share the channel with other learners that would be fantastic. All the best. Gaz 👍
Not an Electrician but used to be a Wireman, My OCD loves the idea of labelling all of the L,N,G cables up so you can see which one associates with what one.
Nice presentation. :) installing a spare breaker instead of a blank is a nice touch and is something I have started doing. The thing I like about Mr Wichard is he is always thinking about the next guy/lass that may work on the system. :)
I think it's quite offensive to tar all Dodgy DIY Dave's with the same brush. In some cases, I've installed circuits to a higher and safer standard than a 'qualified' 'professional' electrician. Just because they're qualified, doesn't necessarily mean they are going to install your electrics to that standard. I had a sparky come round and they didn't have a clue yet they were a 'qualified' 'professional'
Totally concur there is a certain snobbery with a lot of youtube channels in the electrical area. SAfety should come first always but beyond that giving people the knowledge fairly will always help them make better choices in life than just beating them with a you don't have the right sticker so f off.. As that just leads to well f you back I'll just do it however then. And you will always get a % who just do whatever anyway.
Wish I could uptick a thousand times. Tbf, professionals doing domestic jobs at realistic price to them would have to allow for many hours of scrabbling around with difficult to reach cable runs, carving would, plaster, brick, cement while minding carpet, paintwork, etc. Nobody could afford it. As DiYer, I can take my time and do so. So I install boxes and conduit with strings in if it's a job that requires a pro to feed the cable so they can register it. But all professionals say "Electrician's dream!" then still work fast and cut corners even when I say I'll pay more for more careful work. I have met a diligent sparky and hope he's available for my next project to bring all my electrics up to 2022 full spec in case I have another heart attack and leave wife with an out of date system
Great videos as always. Thanks for passing the knowledge to others specially youngesters. One small suggestion . It will be a good practice ( safety wise)to tape around the cables that has been striped off and earth sleeving put on.
Hi great videos, just on your second RCD which is rated at 80A you have connected 40A + 32A + 32A + 16A + 6A which is already over the rated Amps of the RCD.
Excellent explanation and comprehensive, I'm no sparky but it would have been nice to know the thickness of the cables, in particular the rcd cables. Thoroughly enjoyed it, so I've signed up👏👏
I have had two very expensive pieces of hifi damaged by a lack of surge protection (SPD). It's worth fitting in your own home if changing your consumer unit
Very good video as it clearly talks through step by step and easy to understand. Only question is,.... How can you tell the wire comming in to the box operates what?
Great videos very informative and current in today’s climate making electrical learning fun also. At some stage soon I will be doing an am2 is it possible you can do training vid to help for it ?
I would have seen the spare fuse ways and split the rings into two radials and run them through 20amp MCBs. so that the 2.5mm cable is within maximum tolerance .
I have a question Gary, I'm a Maintenance Engineer for an privately owned apartment block, with about 100 apartments, would this be my responsibility to test the RCD, or for the tenant to do?
Most important piece of information on here at 15:05 is that this area should be pout of bounds to untrained people and DIYers like me. So I will now call for an electrician and stay safe. thank you sirs!
Interesting that you (and many others) so emphasise a need to switch OFF with no load. That seems to be contradicted by the device rating of AC22A. (Switching of mixed resistive and inductive loads, including moderate overloads IEC60947-3) If it really did expect no-load use, it would be rated AC-20 (Connecting and disconnecting under no-load conditions IEC60947-3) Or am I missing something?
I have mid 1930s semi original house upstairs lights and ring, downstairs same. Loft extension l & r. Side extension l&r. Kitchen extension l&r. Oven. Hob. Spare for second oven. Staircases lighting. Boiler. Smoke detectors via 3CE smoke resistant. Shed with CU and l&r. Outside and void under house lights. Outside and void ring. 2 CUs with mcbs in 3 subsections. Arranged to cater for or other switched off. Almost all cable in conduit into boxes. Access panels in relevant places on walls and floors. Done in 2013 to 2015 so to those regs. Want separate feeds to each of kitchen appliances, possible car charger, security with new CU to latest regs.
Thank You Guys for the video. do you have a video showing the different styles of Consumer Units? We have Surface and Flush Styles here in the US, in the UK, I seem to see a lot of surface mount styles... Is The Flush style common in the UK at all?
Electrician... somebody of competence. That's the problem. As a DiYer, I'd never do more than switch off circuit breakers at consumer unit. But, as I've mentioned elsewhere, the problem is finding a diligent professional. They all might be registered as competent. That does not mean they apply that registered competence in a diligent pride in work way after getting registered
Looking for some advice, I have 3 appliances each allegedly consuming 3050 at maximum capacity, but the wires and my main feed to the consumer unit is getting so hot. I deliberately upgraded my consumer unit so it could handle these appliances. I installed the outlet (Specifically for these appliances) using Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a 50-amp breaker, then installed ANOTHER Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a another 50-amp breaker so there are now 2, one for two lower end of the consumer unit and the other for the higher end. Furthermore, I also have two BG 80A 30mA 2 Residual current device (RCD) installed on the consumer unit and the main feed that powers the consumer unit has a fuse of 100amps. These appliances are in a container where I linked each outlet to one another so they can draw power from the first one (again, each has its own 50-amp breaker at the opposing side of the consumer unit, one for the upper side and one for the lower side), not sure if that is causing resistance as I even have the powercables with 13amp fuses to power those appliances, but since there is a 50amp breaker for each outlet, I’m still confused.
@@tresslerj1985 That's what I do John, although I did build my own 5 bedroom house here in France and did all the electrics which passed the rigorous inspection first time. used to do electronics as a hobby when I was a lad. Used to be an aerospace engineer in the UK before I retired.
Great Video. You specify Turning OFF of CU, but not Turning ON, would Turn ON. Also you introduce SPD, where would SPD go into the CU, should befirst device to capture surge from Lightning? so before or after the Isolator? Is it better to replace the Isolator with an MCB double pole so can switch OFF in LIfe Mode?
As an electrical student, I fully agree that consumer units should only be worked upon by an electrician as there’s so many things that can go wrong. “balancing” your consumer unit is incredibly important. Please use a qualified electrician for all your consumer unit needs.
Having upstairs lights on one section and downstairs on the other etc is obvious common sense and what I asked for our rewire. Electricians said not necessary. I insisted but they still messed up in two out of 18 circuits.
In one of your previous videos you showed labelling each live, neutral and CPC so each circuit could be identified for troubleshooting purposes. I take it that isn't a mandatory requirement as I didn't notice any labelling in this video?. Kind regards.
Nice vide guys, could you do a presentation on regulations 536.4.3.2 and 536.4.202 on the selection of switch gear and RCDS, in that we can't just use diversity alone.
nice video im planning to study electrician i always watch your video... Can i ask question,, in my country GFCIis using may i know the difference of GFCI to RCD i read that GFCI has same function as RCD but i am not sure if there is a little difference.. I also planning to buy rcd tester. can it be use to test GFCI and same process.. Can you recommend a rcd or gfci tester.. or if there is combination of insulation and rcd tester,, thanks and more power...
Hi thanks for watching and supporting the channel. We use the Megger MFT testers at Tresham College but other brands of tester are available 👍. Thanks again Gaz 😁
@@GSHElectrical Thanks for the reply ..Is GFCI circuit breaker the same as RCD. and can I use RCD tester to GFCI circuit.. I am not sure how it is like.. I plan to buy RCD tester but I want to make sure it can also be use in GFCI circuit. Thanks
Hi😅 o got led here for a different reason but wow I’m learning 💫 can someone kindly tell me which switch is for the fire alarm - I’m looking to replace battery due to beeping low battery
Great presentation and learning, I am not trained Electrician however good watch for safety in domestic environment. When testing RCD,s 6 monthly, how does that work? does it trip all the associated fuses plus RCD? What is the best practice? I have B40 directly to my Under Floor Heating via a 45A double pole switch and to the Thermostat. Currently faulting to a blown Thermostat as it is not displaying at all after loss of power in the area. Can you suggest before act on it.
In the uk we can have ring circuits or ring finals. They allow us to do crazy or cleaver stuff with 2,5mm cable for our socket circuits. It was invented back when copper was in short supply. However it’s so flexible we carry on using it. It is a pain to test though.
GSH Electrical it is actually rare for rcbos to be double pole switching. Obviously LandN need to go through them for the rcd sense, however most only switch off the Line. Regards a DIYer who shouldn’t know anything.
Do you talks from normal MCB or RCBO's? This both are two differnt devices. First "break" the line (live/hot) side, the null line go back normal. Second "break" both lines but have a normal MCB and "earth leakage circuit breaker" together inside. [Sorry english people for my bad english tech terms.]
Hi There Might you be able to do a video showing how to connect an EMPORIA ENERGY Gen 2 Emporia Vue Smart Home Energy Monitor to a UK Consumer unit ? Regards Paul
Do you have more info on the surge protectors? Typical schematic and the standard they have to meet? I design lighting products to meet EN61000-4-5. Interested if these meet much higher test voltages ( eg 6kV) and if they have VDR's, gas discharge tubes fitted and auto switch off when a dangerous surge occurs.
It's unlikely you will ever see every MCB / circuit under full load. If you did then that might cause an issue. :) What I was interested to hear in this video was then liking the idea of filling all the slots on the board. In my mind I'd rather have a gap to allow heat dissipation but then again I'm not a sparky or a supplier just someone who likes to learn about everything.
@@GSHElectrical question: how about if i need to install new shower circuit only , but there is no spd . Can i issue EIC then Or i have to install spd anyway ? There is no wylex spd which would fit in to 17th edition CCU (
Great advice as always guys! But please, let’s stop interpreting the current BS7671 to suit the minimum standards. Split boards should be ditched now. We need to move to RCBO boards in domestic settings. Which is supposed to be the case in TT systems. Your advice to installers is always brilliant. It’s just a bug bear of mine about split boards.
Agreed, I've installed a RCBO board at my home in preference to a split load one. Only an affected circuit will trip, rather than half of them! The abolition of split loads can't come soon enough!
Great comment. Over the decades, I've got used to battling with tradesmen (haven't yet found a tradeswoman) to work to latest ideal best possible future proof as far as reasonably possible standards rather than minimal that you can get away with. I'm living in the house with my family. I want it safe and to maintain value if we sell it
GSH guys, you will have to educate me. I have watched a number of your videos now. I'm not a sparky and not involved in education. Why Learners and not Students? Is it an encouragement to actually learn something and not be, err, just students?
I have added and edition the subtitles for this video - sadly this is not the case for all my videos but I am working on the more popular ones. Hope this helps Gaz
When you switch off the breaker .., don't hold your finger like deaden the impact ..Never do this cus springs can stay blocked and create resistance ...You justgo on a clean single shot ...👍
I'm a spark but not domestic. I've always wondered why the main switch is usually on the far right. It would seem natural to have it on the left, then the first rcd next to it and run left to right?
@@cjmillsnun thanks for the reply.... I thought the busbar just ran the full length of the CU... 🙄😂 Edit....Just runnin it through me head... a common busbar would tie the 2 RCDs together in parallel...not what we want... 😏 Also... if a SPD was installed I assume you would have to go with RCBOs (or get a longer CU) ....?
Not a electrician but I have noticed that in my garage some of the sockets when tested show that on a double socket one side will read that its wired correct and then the other will read live and neutral reversed ? Any one know why this is the case if the back of the socket is wired correct ?
Would love to be a student at your college but Manchester is a bit far from you lol, plus I couldn't afford the course as I'm now 54 I couldn't justify it either lol love watching the videos though guys. I was chatting with a spark some time back asking what his understanding of what is permitted V none permitted work? And he stated that if existing wire is in and all you are doing is running upgraded wire changing damaged wire or installing sockets etc this theoretically would be classed as permitted? And any new circuit would be none permitted? What are your thoughts and maybe a comprehensive video on permitted and none permitted work would be useful. Cheers again guys. Have you guys thought of moving this to paid videos to deter the less competent as I'm sure it's not just sparks and students watching. If you get my meaning? I'd be more than happy to do paid subscription, as am sure others would. And it would generate revenue for the college. Just my thoughts
@johnny 71c I'm personally don't want them to charge however the content provided can be used by less than competent individuals BANG! You get me? They are the type that would be discouraged from viewing if it was paid content. Btw you are correct I'm not a spark however I was a sparks mate many years ago and have done many rewires and repairs and am I feel more than capable of undertaking electrical work i was involved in the building trade for some time working on sites before life issues forced a change, and aren't we all students of life 😎? As for students loosing out if there was paid content. How do you come to that conclusion? If they are students then that says to me they are at college and learning on the job so I'd assume that they would be taught this so watching these videos just effectively gives them added information. And paying a small fee to access that information should they want it I feel is value. The guys clearly state what should be done by a competent person however who states who's competent? Ive known many incompetent trades people and ideas of what is permitted and not permitted varies vastly depending on who you talk to so I also ask that question as I'm interested in their views as teachers to that trade. Hope that clears stuff up?
If you apply to your local council you can do anything electrically. Being registered means your scheme does the notification for you. Edit: it's costs about £125 and if the BCO didn't like what you did he will ask for remedial. Also your insurance might have bad news if you had an Electrical fire. All in all get a Registered insured spark to do complex work.
As a responsible Handyman I watch all your videos for information to pass onto my clients, also to deter them from attempting electrical work themselves, I like to stay up to date with regs but know my limitations, thank for the videos.
good man. i'm a fairly enthusiastic DIYer and i've worked in construction on and off over the years, but there are two things i never fuck with: electricity and plumbing. both of them should always be left to professionals, imo
I’m not a sparkie but I’ve always wondered what was inside the consumer unit ! People should watch this next time they moan about having to pay an electrician to do work .... very skilled work. Great video chaps ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks for the positive comment Gaz 👍
Just about to start an electrcians course and this is pretty easy to follow. Your students seem pretty lucky to have you as a tutor. Thanks!
Good luck with your studies and I hope my videos will help you in some small way. If you can share the channel with other learners that would be fantastic. All the best. Gaz 👍
OHH that's a lovely board, well terminated and identified. Next step add some of those heat marker tags.
Not an Electrician but used to be a Wireman, My OCD loves the idea of labelling all of the L,N,G cables up so you can see which one associates with what one.
Nice presentation. :) installing a spare breaker instead of a blank is a nice touch and is something I have started doing. The thing I like about Mr Wichard is he is always thinking about the next guy/lass that may work on the system. :)
This really helpful for property owner, I can say an update RCD is needed
Well explained, from some one who has been in the game since 1975!
Sure your training must be out dated at thos stage
Nothing short of perfect explanation. Fantastic.
Thanks 👍
What an insightful video, i really learnt alot
I think it's quite offensive to tar all Dodgy DIY Dave's with the same brush. In some cases, I've installed circuits to a higher and safer standard than a 'qualified' 'professional' electrician. Just because they're qualified, doesn't necessarily mean they are going to install your electrics to that standard. I had a sparky come round and they didn't have a clue yet they were a 'qualified' 'professional'
Totally concur there is a certain snobbery with a lot of youtube channels in the electrical area.
SAfety should come first always but beyond that giving people the knowledge fairly will always help them make better choices in life than just beating them with a you don't have the right sticker so f off.. As that just leads to well f you back I'll just do it however then.
And you will always get a % who just do whatever anyway.
Wish I could uptick a thousand times. Tbf, professionals doing domestic jobs at realistic price to them would have to allow for many hours of scrabbling around with difficult to reach cable runs, carving would, plaster, brick, cement while minding carpet, paintwork, etc. Nobody could afford it. As DiYer, I can take my time and do so. So I install boxes and conduit with strings in if it's a job that requires a pro to feed the cable so they can register it.
But all professionals say "Electrician's dream!" then still work fast and cut corners even when I say I'll pay more for more careful work. I have met a diligent sparky and hope he's available for my next project to bring all my electrics up to 2022 full spec in case I have another heart attack and leave wife with an out of date system
Okay 99% of them 🙄
Nice one Gaz and Joe, brilliant explanation. 👍
Thanks for the support Gaz and Joe 👍
This is so brilliant description of a cu..well done for sharing and educating us.
Very good video. Easy to understand and clearly explained
Thanks 👍
very helpful especially for a starter like me. Thanks a lot !!
Thanks 👍🏻
Informative & well presented 👍
Many thanks for that 👍Gaz
THANK YOU. VERY MUCH FOR THIS amazing info
🙌🏻👍🏻
This was a great help with some work training I am doing, awesome video. Thanks :)
Great vid. I enjoyed watching that. Well done.
Great videos as always. Thanks for passing the knowledge to others specially youngesters.
One small suggestion . It will be a good practice ( safety wise)to tape around the cables that has been striped off and earth sleeving put on.
Tape is not a good idea, in warm weather it becomes sticky and comes off. A rubber sleeve is looks better and does not go sticky like tape.
Hi great videos, just on your second RCD which is rated at 80A you have connected 40A + 32A + 32A + 16A + 6A which is already over the rated Amps of the RCD.
Great explanation. Thank you
Thanks
very good video thank you for your effort and explanations
Great vid 👍🏼
Another great video 👍🏼
Many thanks for the lovely comment 👍
Thanks for sharing it with us. I appreciate it
Excellent explanation and comprehensive, I'm no sparky but it would have been nice to know the thickness of the cables, in particular the rcd cables.
Thoroughly enjoyed it, so I've signed up👏👏
Thanks
Good video 👍
Brilliant
👍🏻
I wonder how you doing great things thank you
Thanks 👍
Thanks
Thanks!
Massive thanks Brooke Barnes 👍🏻. Gaz
surge protection if something I'd like fitted if it helps protect my expensive electronics from blowing.
Hello
Nice channel keep up the good work.
I have had two very expensive pieces of hifi damaged by a lack of surge protection (SPD). It's worth fitting in your own home if changing your consumer unit
Great video gaz
Thanks Matt 👍
Very good video as it clearly talks through step by step and easy to understand.
Only question is,.... How can you tell the wire comming in to the box operates what?
Labels mark underneath.
Yes it has been helpful
Great videos very informative and current in today’s climate making electrical learning fun also. At some stage soon I will be doing an am2 is it possible you can do training vid to help for it ?
Thanks and good luck Gaz 👍
I would have seen the spare fuse ways and split the rings into two radials and run them through 20amp MCBs. so that the 2.5mm cable is within maximum tolerance .
I have a question Gary, I'm a Maintenance Engineer for an privately owned apartment block, with about 100 apartments, would this be my responsibility to test the RCD, or for the tenant to do?
Too good
👍
Most important piece of information on here at 15:05 is that this area should be pout of bounds to untrained people and DIYers like me. So I will now call for an electrician and stay safe. thank you sirs!
👍👍👍👍👍😊
What are the odds of finding a board in a real installation that's this neat and with everything nicely labelled?
Hopefully if you do I may have taught them 😁👍. Thanks for commenting and watching Gaz
Very high.
Interesting that you (and many others) so emphasise a need to switch OFF with no load. That seems to be contradicted by the device rating of AC22A. (Switching of mixed resistive and inductive loads, including moderate overloads IEC60947-3) If it really did expect no-load use, it would be rated AC-20 (Connecting and disconnecting under no-load conditions IEC60947-3) Or am I missing something?
I have mid 1930s semi original house upstairs lights and ring, downstairs same. Loft extension l & r. Side extension l&r. Kitchen extension l&r. Oven. Hob. Spare for second oven. Staircases lighting. Boiler. Smoke detectors via 3CE smoke resistant. Shed with CU and l&r. Outside and void under house lights. Outside and void ring. 2 CUs with mcbs in 3 subsections. Arranged to cater for or other switched off. Almost all cable in conduit into boxes. Access panels in relevant places on walls and floors. Done in 2013 to 2015 so to those regs. Want separate feeds to each of kitchen appliances, possible car charger, security with new CU to latest regs.
We have lightening surge protectors in our system here in France.
Good lesson!
Thank You Guys for the video. do you have a video showing the different styles of Consumer Units? We have Surface and Flush Styles here in the US, in the UK, I seem to see a lot of surface mount styles... Is The Flush style common in the UK at all?
ua-cam.com/video/lb1q34M21e4/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/11RLJ-DtugU/v-deo.html
Thanks for the message maybe these will help 👍
This is really helpful. I am also looking to understand how to determine when a radial or ring type circuit should be used for sockets? Thanks
A radial circuit is used for lighting and a ring circuit is for sockets
@@aaqibkhan2862 in UK. And a cooker might be a radial circuit since it has a single appliance one cable
I have 16 circuit breakers, three are in use.
Electrician... somebody of competence. That's the problem. As a DiYer, I'd never do more than switch off circuit breakers at consumer unit. But, as I've mentioned elsewhere, the problem is finding a diligent professional. They all might be registered as competent. That does not mean they apply that registered competence in a diligent pride in work way after getting registered
Best to test the RDC's sometime in the day when the system is not under load.
Looking for some advice, I have 3 appliances each allegedly consuming 3050 at maximum capacity, but the wires and my main feed to the consumer unit is getting so hot. I deliberately upgraded my consumer unit so it could handle these appliances. I installed the outlet (Specifically for these appliances) using Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a 50-amp breaker, then installed ANOTHER Prysmian 10mm2 twin and earth, wired to a another 50-amp breaker so there are now 2, one for two lower end of the consumer unit and the other for the higher end. Furthermore, I also have two BG 80A 30mA 2 Residual current device (RCD) installed on the consumer unit and the main feed that powers the consumer unit has a fuse of 100amps.
These appliances are in a container where I linked each outlet to one another so they can draw power from the first one (again, each has its own 50-amp breaker at the opposing side of the consumer unit, one for the upper side and one for the lower side), not sure if that is causing resistance as I even have the powercables with 13amp fuses to power those appliances, but since there is a 50amp breaker for each outlet, I’m still confused.
32Amp for 10mmp in the long run...
We have A and AC RCD here. MCB have both live and neutral through them.
Think you should stick to photography.
@@tresslerj1985 That's what I do John, although I did build my own 5 bedroom house here in France and did all the electrics which passed the rigorous inspection first time. used to do electronics as a hobby when I was a lad. Used to be an aerospace engineer in the UK before I retired.
Great Video. You specify Turning OFF of CU, but not Turning ON, would Turn ON. Also you introduce SPD, where would SPD go into the CU, should befirst device to capture surge from Lightning? so before or after the Isolator? Is it better to replace the Isolator with an MCB double pole so can switch OFF in LIfe Mode?
As an electrical student, I fully agree that consumer units should only be worked upon by an electrician as there’s so many things that can go wrong. “balancing” your consumer unit is incredibly important. Please use a qualified electrician for all your consumer unit needs.
Still a lot off cowboys getting through in the trade. Good video
@@ianfraser2009 wish I could uptick a hundred times
Test the RCD’s then reset the time on everything inc 3 tv’s, heating, and everything else. Don’t think so
Did you film when you went back to install the lights and sockets?
Having upstairs lights on one section and downstairs on the other etc is obvious common sense and what I asked for our rewire. Electricians said not necessary. I insisted but they still messed up in two out of 18 circuits.
In one of your previous videos you showed labelling each live, neutral and CPC so each circuit could be identified for troubleshooting purposes. I take it that isn't a mandatory requirement as I didn't notice any labelling in this video?. Kind regards.
No currently just best practice 🦾👍. Thanks for commenting. Gaz
Nice vide guys, could you do a presentation on regulations 536.4.3.2 and 536.4.202 on the selection of switch gear and RCDS, in that we can't just use diversity alone.
nice video im planning to study electrician i always watch your video... Can i ask question,, in my country GFCIis using may i know the difference of GFCI to RCD i read that GFCI has same function as RCD but i am not sure if there is a little difference.. I also planning to buy rcd tester. can it be use to test GFCI and same process.. Can you recommend a rcd or gfci tester.. or if there is combination of insulation and rcd tester,, thanks and more power...
Hi thanks for watching and supporting the channel. We use the Megger MFT testers at Tresham College but other brands of tester are available 👍. Thanks again Gaz 😁
@@GSHElectrical Thanks for the reply ..Is GFCI circuit breaker the same as RCD. and can I use RCD tester to GFCI circuit.. I am not sure how it is like.. I plan to buy RCD tester but I want to make sure it can also be use in GFCI circuit. Thanks
Thank you sir it was brilliant vlog let me understand 18th Edition
What does RCBO stand for, and what is 'inrush current'?
Can an SPD be fitted to older units to protect the entire unit? Would this knock out the power being as the unit is not resettable?
You can fit one in the tails along with a double pole switch for isolation 👍.
Hi😅 o got led here for a different reason but wow I’m learning 💫 can someone kindly tell me which switch is for the fire alarm - I’m looking to replace battery due to beeping low battery
Great presentation and learning, I am not trained Electrician however good watch for safety in domestic environment.
When testing RCD,s 6 monthly, how does that work? does it trip all the associated fuses plus RCD?
What is the best practice? I have B40 directly to my Under Floor Heating via a 45A double pole switch and to the Thermostat. Currently faulting to a blown Thermostat as it is not displaying at all after loss of power in the area. Can you suggest before act on it.
How do I setup if my house has only one ring circuit and one lighting circuit?
is there an updated version of this video content?
Do you put 32 amps trough 2.5 mm copper??.?
No. 👍
GSH Electrical okey diffident over 2 wires? Sorry. Still learning about English electric
@@antonfloor344 typical to see 20A radial.
In the uk we can have ring circuits or ring finals. They allow us to do crazy or cleaver stuff with 2,5mm cable for our socket circuits. It was invented back when copper was in short supply. However it’s so flexible we carry on using it. It is a pain to test though.
Still it’s weird that in the UK the neutral doesn’t go trough the circuit breaker and only the life very different in here in Holland and Germany
Hi. Our RCBO’s are double pole and have the line and neutral pass through them 👍😁. Thanks for commenting and watching Gaz
GSH Electrical it is actually rare for rcbos to be double pole switching. Obviously LandN need to go through them for the rcd sense, however most only switch off the Line. Regards a DIYer who shouldn’t know anything.
Do you talks from normal MCB or RCBO's? This both are two differnt devices. First "break" the line (live/hot) side, the null line go back normal. Second "break" both lines but have a normal MCB and "earth leakage circuit breaker" together inside. [Sorry english people for my bad english tech terms.]
Hi There
Might you be able to do a video showing how to connect an EMPORIA ENERGY Gen 2 Emporia Vue Smart Home Energy Monitor to a UK Consumer unit ?
Regards
Paul
How does the live reach the breakers from the RCDs
Do you always have to do a closed loop wiring with the English system? I once heard that from an English electrician.
How to Test a Ring Final Circuit - Ring Main or Socket Circuit - Ring Continuity & Polarity Tests ua-cam.com/video/UesYHVsZD-E/v-deo.html
Almost the same in the states
I think it's a little bit different. 😲
Do you have more info on the surge protectors? Typical schematic and the standard they have to meet? I design lighting products to meet EN61000-4-5.
Interested if these meet much higher test voltages ( eg 6kV) and if they have VDR's, gas discharge tubes fitted and auto switch off when a dangerous surge occurs.
The rcd is rated at 80A yet the circuits off that exceed that, cam you explain?
Charlie Good question... answer diversity 👍
It's unlikely you will ever see every MCB / circuit under full load.
If you did then that might cause an issue. :)
What I was interested to hear in this video was then liking the idea of filling all the slots on the board.
In my mind I'd rather have a gap to allow heat dissipation but then again I'm not a sparky or a supplier just someone who likes to learn about everything.
what's the size of the incoming cables into the 100A mains switch?
In this case 25mm2 👍
SPD - super priced device 😁
£40 or less
@@GSHElectrical question: how about if i need to install new shower circuit only , but there is no spd . Can i issue EIC then Or i have to install spd anyway ? There is no wylex spd which would fit in to 17th edition CCU (
I'm sure the spare space in the board is a requirement in part P?
Great advice as always guys! But please, let’s stop interpreting the current BS7671 to suit the minimum standards. Split boards should be ditched now. We need to move to RCBO boards in domestic settings. Which is supposed to be the case in TT systems. Your advice to installers is always brilliant. It’s just a bug bear of mine about split boards.
Agreed, I've installed a RCBO board at my home in preference to a split load one. Only an affected circuit will trip, rather than half of them! The abolition of split loads can't come soon enough!
Great comment. Over the decades, I've got used to battling with tradesmen (haven't yet found a tradeswoman) to work to latest ideal best possible future proof as far as reasonably possible standards rather than minimal that you can get away with. I'm living in the house with my family. I want it safe and to maintain value if we sell it
how much electrician will charge to setup a circuit board with 20-22 outlets and connecting to a live and neutral wire?
Great video, love your youtube channel!
Q; Do you have a video on diversity of the circuits?
Thanks
Gusman hi thanks for the positive feedback... sadly not at the moment 👍
How does it typically take to get qualified as an electrician?
GSH guys, you will have to educate me. I have watched a number of your videos now. I'm not a sparky and not involved in education. Why Learners and not Students? Is it an encouragement to actually learn something and not be, err, just students?
Hi. Learners or students it’s just the tutors personal preference 👍 thanks Gaz
why in UK you don t use an OVR protection?
Why exactly do you need to turn off the trips individually, why not just press the two yellow RCD's to achieve the same result.
How do you connect a sub-panel from the main consumer unit?
For those who are hard of hearing, could you please turn on closed caption?
I have added and edition the subtitles for this video - sadly this is not the case for all my videos but I am working on the more popular ones. Hope this helps Gaz
Why don't you bond earth to nuetral in this type of board?
Brown and Blue was a poor choice by who ever thought that up. In AU, we use Black for Neutral and Red for Active.
When you switch off the breaker .., don't hold your finger like deaden the impact ..Never do this cus springs can stay blocked and create resistance ...You justgo on a clean single shot ...👍
What are Arssy dees ?
I'm a spark but not domestic. I've always wondered why the main switch is usually on the far right. It would seem natural to have it on the left, then the first rcd next to it and run left to right?
It depends on the brand. A lot of Crabtree units have the isolation switch on the left.
It isn't. Sometimes left, sometimes rigjt
5:56 isn't it forbidden to disconnect neutral conductor?
Best practice & the shower mcb 40A is almost last on the busbar ?
Why not have it up front ??
(From a dibbling diyer 🙄)
It is the first on the busbar of the second RCD. Each RCD has its own busbar.
@@cjmillsnun thanks for the reply.... I thought the busbar just ran the full length of the CU... 🙄😂
Edit....Just runnin it through me head... a common busbar would tie the 2 RCDs together in parallel...not what we want... 😏
Also... if a SPD was installed I assume you would have to go with RCBOs (or get a longer CU) ....?
Not a electrician but I have noticed that in my garage some of the sockets when tested show that on a double socket one side will read that its wired correct and then the other will read live and neutral reversed ? Any one know why this is the case if the back of the socket is wired correct ?
Would love to be a student at your college but Manchester is a bit far from you lol, plus I couldn't afford the course as I'm now 54 I couldn't justify it either lol love watching the videos though guys. I was chatting with a spark some time back asking what his understanding of what is permitted V none permitted work? And he stated that if existing wire is in and all you are doing is running upgraded wire changing damaged wire or installing sockets etc this theoretically would be classed as permitted? And any new circuit would be none permitted? What are your thoughts and maybe a comprehensive video on permitted and none permitted work would be useful. Cheers again guys. Have you guys thought of moving this to paid videos to deter the less competent as I'm sure it's not just sparks and students watching. If you get my meaning? I'd be more than happy to do paid subscription, as am sure others would. And it would generate revenue for the college. Just my thoughts
@johnny 71c I'm personally don't want them to charge however the content provided can be used by less than competent individuals BANG! You get me? They are the type that would be discouraged from viewing if it was paid content.
Btw you are correct I'm not a spark however I was a sparks mate many years ago and have done many rewires and repairs and am I feel more than capable of undertaking electrical work i was involved in the building trade for some time working on sites before life issues forced a change, and aren't we all students of life 😎?
As for students loosing out if there was paid content. How do you come to that conclusion? If they are students then that says to me they are at college and learning on the job so I'd assume that they would be taught this so watching these videos just effectively gives them added information. And paying a small fee to access that information should they want it I feel is value.
The guys clearly state what should be done by a competent person however who states who's competent? Ive known many incompetent trades people and ideas of what is permitted and not permitted varies vastly depending on who you talk to so I also ask that question as I'm interested in their views as teachers to that trade. Hope that clears stuff up?
If you apply to your local council you can do anything electrically. Being registered means your scheme does the notification for you.
Edit: it's costs about £125 and if the BCO didn't like what you did he will ask for remedial. Also your insurance might have bad news if you had an Electrical fire.
All in all get a Registered insured spark to do complex work.
@@tresslerj1985 cheers for the info