Now this video really made me want/need to buy myself a lathe.. Again a good and informative video.. I really like this type of rebuilding/making modifications videos and in my mind you have made some of the best videos of this type with your rebuild/mod videos that one can find on UA-cam!!!! Take care and Cheers!
Love it Del. Who ever gave you that pointer to align the wheel that way needs a high five or big thumbs up. Wheels look great on there. Still love that lathe of yours.
You can teach an old dog new tricks👍🤣👌 Another great episode and great to see you acknowledging all the comments Del, even those who questioned the tyre rotation👌 I had every confidence in you😋 Just loving the look of the bike, as I’ve said before the perfect combination and like bikes I’ve loved of old; interested in your rear fender plan, will be watching to the end for sure🙏🏻
Thanks Gareth, really appreciate your kind words, and i hope you like the finished outcome.. i have most of it planned out in my head, but ill let the bike go its own way a little and evolve to the best overall finish... take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
Nice job Del, those AVON tires are flipping AWESOME! I will never use anything else on my bikes.... light up through though the twisties they are remarkable! Happy trails, Doug
You made good use of that lathe this week, Del! Great idea regarding slicing up those washers. That front setup is really looking nice. Am enroute home and had the pleasure of watching this in LAX! Have a great weekend... 🏍👍🏍
Thank you Timo, i work long 15hr days at the day job sometimes too, pretty crap aye, and im glad we could cheer you up buddy... have a good weekend.. Del.
Great job Del. There are reasons why some people wrench and some people don't. Some people get it and some people don't.. Keep up the good work. Oh yea nice tip with the washers I will be using that one, thanks.
Thanks brother, great tip wasn't it, one of those, doh why didn't I think of that moments lol... and truer words never said, have a great week, ride safe mate, D&Px
Your project is coming along great looks fantastic with wheels and what a good investment in the lathe you are making your own parts to keep you moving along in the build all the best to penny
Great video - excellent presentation, filming and production as usual. Thanks for passing along the tip about the spacers, and for sharing the detail of the work on the lathe.
Thanks John, really appreciate your kind words, glad you enjoy the videos, we do put a lot of work in to them, so it's gret to know they're appreciated, all the very best, D&Px
Excellent. Your video's are real work being done. I learn a lot from them and very instructional. keep up the good work and be "Set Apart" from the rest. Great stuff.
As simple as that. What an idea. Good job! Been mucking with tools and weldors for years and never thought,Tire rotation is for water displacement. Great job.
Del, that 3/4 washer trick is dead smart! I never woulda thought of that either. I’m definitely gonna use that one whenever I start working on my project bike again. That woulda save me so much time instead of stumbling around overthinking measurements and whatnot.
I've been binge watching this series and I just realized that I'm caught up to the last video. It's like being punched in the gut! These are unbelievably well done. The advice, video quality, editing, humor...everything is great. I only wish you had a bigger shop so you could spread out more tools. If you want to come to Michigan, I would volunteer my 26 X 28 foot garage (it is currently -5 degrees Fahrenheit though).
Hey buddy... SOLD.. i have never needed much persuading to make the move to America, we have friends who are like family in Detroit, and lots of other YT friends all over America.. but life and commitments keep us here in Blighty for now, its just a matter of keeping head down and pedal hard for the next couple of years and we can plan the next move... One of the best things about the USA is your awesome space.. there is nothing i would like more that a massive garage with enough room to spread out all the equipment i need and stop having to make do and adapt other tools to work for what i need.. the biggest benefit would be to have three lifts, two with projects on them so we can alternate video subjects, and the third for servicing tutorials... guys could drop by and do their own service work under supervision and learn along the way.. what a dream come true that would be... but we'll just keep peddling for now, and see what the future brings.. its all about the funding as with all things... Take care and have a wonderful weekend sir.. all the best.. Del.
@Moonfleet41 Just a suggestion. If I send you my original spacers, would you be willing to make me a new pair? I just need to figure out this weekend how I get the brake calipers to sit well. I have a 21 Triumph Rocket and standing in front of the bike I notice it's off set (parallel to forks) to the left. So the bike leans to the left when releasing handlebars. This shouldn't be and I think this will fix it. The difference is bigger than the one shown on this video.
Iv'e done everythng you did except put the spacers in because looking from the front it appears the tire is a little farther to the left is that ok as long as everything else lines up? it's looking like the fender and tire won't be matched up and wondering if i should put washers or something behing the caliper to move wheel over about 1/4' or 3/8' more toward center. Thanks once again.
Del great job as always loving this build. You make machining those spacers look so easy. Thank you so for your knowledge. Boy you make me want to build a bike. Thank you Penny
Thanks Charles for your kind words, we're glad to know we maybe inspire people, like you, to get motivated, just sharing a few ideas, glad you enjoy! Thanks for all your support, and go build that bike, you know you'll enjoy it! D&Px
Great tip from bongo there. Love it when people share ideas. Thanks to your motivation via simple skills, I bought my first multimeter today!!!😅. £10 in lidl's. Electrics? How hard can it be!! Think the brushes are shot on my starter motor. Ta for the encouragement mate.
Wonderful job indeed, precision work ❤😍💯. There's a lot to learn from you, you are persuing your passion afterall ❤️😍💯. Stay blessed you always. I will reach out to you for any questions.
Hi Delboy, the trick the spacers was great. I'm loving the making on your parts with your new toy. Hoping to get one myself for my trike ( MAVIS ) my wife gets worried when I watch your videos...... knowing that il be putting one in my garage 😍. As always keeping me inspired. Massive thank you 😎
Gary... you have a Trike called Mavis?.. Awesome mate.. i love it. and i love Trikes too.. glad we can inspire you in some way, and if you need a get-out-of-jail-free card.. just tell her you can make stuff to sell and that will earn yo money.. see, easy..lol!
Hi! Excellent work. My suggestion will be to, first center the front wheel with the fork, frame and the rear wheel., it is the most important step, the have them line up perfectly. Second adjust either the disk or the caliper to fit the wheel not the opposite around. The bike has to run straight first, then break properly. For the front tire, A rule of thumb is, if you use a rear tire in the front you have to revers it since it is not a traction wheel but a slave to the rear one. This is a theory not proven that make sens to me. I have seen them mounted both way, Keep up the good work I love your channel.
Thanks buddy, it is a 'front' tyre in the front of the bike, not a rear tyre... these days they make tyres that are the same profile as the rear, but they make them front specific... as I knew this was gonna be a big ol' drama, as it's happened before, I made it clear in the video infr 17:07 so that everybody's clear... in fact, if you look closely at the arrow at the side of the tyre wall, at 17:27 it says clearly on there 'front fitment'.. Of course you can put actual rears on the front and the other way round and yes, you''r right, you should oppose them when you do this... thanks for your input Rene, take care, all the best, Del
Muy friend Hello and ....the only I whant say it's.....you are .....ONE AWESOME GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ✌️🤓 Wooooow!!! Again I can't wait to the next episode Best wishes buddy 🤘🤓👍
I think it follows the old cliched stroy, give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, give a man a fishing rod and he'll feed himself for life... fed up with buying parts that I could make year after year, it's so much more satisfying to do it yourself, and when someone says 'where did you get those spacers?', you can be cool and say I made them myself... well worth saving up for, so many things you can make with it!
I plan on doing this with my 05 Wide Glide and plan on a 09 Fat boy rim chrome and a 140/75/R17 with a Heritage Softail fender burns no trim or holes . My question is what size front tire/rim did you put on it?
Hi again I have just a couple questions regarding my first one. I have two brand new fenders and one looks exactly like yours but it’s only 5-3/8” wide and after I purchased it I realized what my rim calls for 140/75/r17 that is to wide for rim so first question with a 3.5” rim how far up can I go 130/80/17 120/80 what do you think? Also after I bought it it claimed for 19 to 21” rims. My second question my rim has 25mm bearings so I bought reducers to 3/4” will that be enough or should the whole hub be reduced with a reducer sleeve to 3/4” also. Where and what width is your fender purchased? It looks wider then 5-3/8” and I have a bike jack but it won’t fit under bike it looks like a black cover possibly for transmission and I don’t want to damage anything you’re very good and have ways us Americans do differently but you make more since. Thanks again if you can help on tire with reducers and tire size and fender that would help as I wanted a fat boy fender but unless I reduce width or stick with heritage Softail fender or buy the one you have. And I’m making sure reducers is all I’ll need. Thanks!
Hi iv'e done everything you told me except put my spacers n because the wheel sits farther to the left and if i put fender on i won't be dead center does the wheel being farther to the fork brake side about 3/8' matter? or should add washers to caliper on back side to move tire closer to center?
Keep the spacers correct as factory spec, my wheel also sat about 3/8" off centre under the fender, but alignment with the front wheel is far more important and that will be given by the wheel spacers.
@@Moonfleet41 ok I understand that so even though my wheel is offset pretty much whatever the difference just replace the spacers with one even though a bit different in size as close to the old ones. I have a rim with 50 miles on it and the bearings are 25mm so I bought reducers so that shortens the spacer happens on each side since they stick out a little farther than just the bearings. My old spacers are different size each side and my replacement kit will be smaller since I don’t have a lathe I bought a variety size kit. Than the bearing reducers and offset shouldn’t be a problem?
I checked everything but since i put reducers in from 25mm to 3/4" my spacer will be a different size since they stick out a little on each side but i did notice with the factory caliper mounted the split in caliper is farther to the right and not aligned with the rotor and haven't a clue of how to get those to center if i could my wheel would be more towards right and more centered. Is there something i'm missing or do i have to completely collapse the caliper and hope my wheel can move over a little but if the piston is pushing in from outside i won't be able to move wheel since its fixed to frame. There has to be a way to modify without shimming caliper in more towards bike. Sorry to keep bothering you but when i'm done i'll definitely contribute to your channel Thanks again from America.
@@Captainkleen Hi there, ok, by how much is the split line of the caliper off centre from the rotor? If it's maybe 1/16th or so, you can shim your caliper with washers, but if it's significant and too much to shim, then you still have an anomaly somewhere with in the spacer set up, it's difficult to diagnose without seeing it (I know everyone says that), but genuinely these kind of problems are best fathomed out by looking at them, and is very vague to try and understand an explanation over email... but with my Harley, the rear Brembo caliper was shimmed inwards by 1/16 with a couple of spacer washers... and it was fine and worked perfectly safely, so I hope that helps again.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi again I put the original wheel back on to get an idea a checked the split in caliper to rotor and it looks like the original wheel is a under 1/4” about 5/16” in toward forks the tire looks centered but the split is like new wheel off about 5/16” towards other fork and the original tire is centered in forks with original spacers so if original is off too maybe that’s the way original calipers are. The main thing other than both being the same the wheel on new rim is off center about 1/8” with caliper collapsed it looks a lot better not noticeable that’s with caliper collapse and both wheels from right end of hub to end of rotor are about the same 6 1/4” about so their the same the only thing off is the split in caliper to center of both original wheel and new wheel both about 5/16” and that’s how original came.
Hi, recently I removed my 2012 Sportster superlow front wheel. Then when I reassembled it again, I noticed a drag when I installed the caliper. Do you know how drag could be normal ? By the way. On the manual it says that narrow spacer is on the bike’s right side and the wide one on the left side( caliper side). I’m not sure if they where o that’s position when I removed them at first time.
Hi mate, so what you're saying is, it's possible you have the spacers in the wrong order? Try and find a schematic diaphragm of the front end and it'll give you an insight in the order of assembly, as there should certainly be no drag in the free running of the wheel.
Delboy's Garage Hi. Well, I deicided to change the spacers order and I solved the issue. My concern now is why does the service manual is so confused in this part. Anyway, thanks for taking your time to answer. Keep safe .
Great video again Del but I have to say that tyre, wheel and disk combo is off the scale cool looking m8 and the cut washer trick was a real time saver
love the cut out washer's what a neat idea .your video's are addictive lol as soon as ive watched them i'm looking forward to the next episode.. have a great weekend guy's
Thanks Tom, really appreciate that, we try really to make them progressive and entertaining, so it's good to know you enjoy, thanks for your kind support, it's much appreciated, D&Px
Hi Jim, coming from you Sir, that is praise indeed, thank you... it's certainly a scary process and just seems to be a matter of diving in hard enough and not being scared of it...! Aluminium is easy, but I didn't think it would be this easier with stainless steel, being so much harder... same goes for pushing the big drill bit down the centre to make a hole for the boring bar, lots of oil and you just seem to need to pile in there hard with the chuck turning slow and it just seems to work, unless I'm just lucky lol ! Take care mate and thank you so much for your constant support... Del
I know an old thread, but, is it by design that the non-brake disc side uses the axle itself as the axle pinch rather than the fork slider? By that I mean, the axle has a hard shoulder that the spacer compresses on rather than the inner face of the fork slider. The shoulder of the axle then exits the fork slider and a clam shell then secures that extended bit of the axle. This effectively releases any lateral pressure on the non-disc side fork slider, making that slider without any direct compression on the fork slider at that point. The disc side of the fork has a lateral pinch as you would expect. Another question on this video - all the bikes I've had the pleasure (now that's a subjective "pleasure") of working on, normally the spacer will seat itself inwards of a dust seal and rest on the inner race of the bearing... in this video, there did not seem to be any dust seal and just a hard face of the bearing. Otherwise, good commentary, great lathe work, and a good result. Thank you
Friction mate... it's an interference fit in the disc... meaning that it fits over the hub cleanly, but the disc binds on it very slightly and as it's soft aluminium, when you torque the disc down it wedges it in solid!
Morning Del, James Cramer here. Absolutely loving the videos mate especially the direction your going with this new project. I can't see you selling this one especially after all the great performance upgrades. This thing is going to handle beautifully, with thick tyres, amazing shocks and the low riding style.....lovely lol Just a quick question off subject. I am reassembling my front forks on my 2001 Yamaha FJR1300 and can't remember which way up the concave retaining ring goes that sits under the oil seal...is it concave up or concave down? Thanks for all your help as always. Love to you both.
Hi James, good to hear from you again, Thanks for your kind words on the Harley, it's going to be a keeper for sure, and with luck we'll grow old together no matter what other bikes pass through..... With your forks.. it sounds like you;re referring to the washer that the seal sits down onto, and in the past ive only ever seen them flat.. not concave.. i can;t find a picture of it in any parts diagrams, if you have a manual, maybe there is an image of it or schematic diag. that will show it... if the other fork is still together,, maybe check that one for orientation?.. sorry can;t be more help without seeing it buddy... have a good weekend.. D&P
@@Moonfleet41 Morning Del, thanks mate for taking the time to answer my emails as I know you have thousands to get through. I have a manual, seen countless UA-cam videos and searched several websites and even asked the boys on FJR forum but there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice. Going on why it should be concave suggests me to believe it should be concave pointing upwards because if any oil should bypass the top bushing it would then disperse to the outside of the oil seal rather than the inner face. Never mind I'll sort it out somehow lol Love to you both.
It's aluminium Mark and held wedged in place by the disc, pretty tight in fact, and when I bolted the disc down, you could feel the disc carrier snuck down over it, so it is an interference fit, which means it's going nowhere mate, I think tey machine it to fit tight.
Hello, just wondering if the wheel spacers are supposed to be spinning with the wheel? It seems as though they are in the video, but not sure if they are supposed to... Thank you and awesome instructional video!
Nice job matey, good progress! I tried doing a little garage video the other day about this old honda cub im doing up. I posted the vid on my channel but now have a new found respect for your vids lol, was a right pain in the arse lugging the tripod around to film each little bit and i only did a short video!
haha welcome to my world brother! It's insane how a 10min job can be 2hrs filming... I maybe spend 8hrs in the garage to film a video now and that equals up to about 2.5hrs raw footage and then 8hrs editing makes it a 20min video and that's with almost a decade's practice!!!!?
nice lathe, i would like a small one but i only have room for one, and i dont know if you can get dual use ones for metal and wood. i could get by with a small metal one you can turn delron and acrylic on them.
Lovely tidy job Del......can't beat a bit of stainless!! Quick question, not related to this video......what's the mini pillar drill your using, link if possible please??
Hi Gaz, a link which of couse is handy, but my pillar drill is an old antique one from the 70's I got from a second hand tool shop, but Machine Mart make a copy of it under the Clarke brand, and they have a range of quite a few, so you can chose one that suits you... mine's a Nu_Tools machine made from all steel and metal, roughly twice the weight of the MM copy, and it does the job, plus it was just £50, so am proper happy.
Hi Del love your vids , but the front wheel seem to spin effortlessly without the brake caliper on but once fitted it seemed to be binding and not spinning as it should... ?
The caliper still needs to be stripped and cleaned out with new pads etc etc.. so its just binding a very tiny bit at the mo...it'll be perfect once i sort the caliper out buddy... have a good weekend, and thanks for your support.. Del.
Sweet....Question...Since I am new to lathes I see you line up the cuter with a straight edge and a right angle square, is that for the angle of the cutting blade? Always a pleasure, Take Care
Hi Bradley, that is it guage the height of the cutting tool, you press the tool against the material, and trap a steel rule inbetween, if it stands dead upright, then the tool is dead in the centre in terms of height... you can line it up with the tailstock also, but this is far quicker and dead accurate, as you can see from the facing cut!
How do Bruv. 🤘. I'm following this build very closely especially cos my little fork protect, which I may sadly say has come to a hold again. Work commitment and I'm helping my mate getting a "second hand" 125cc moped for ready for his birthday next week. That's going well, only the forks to finish stripping final prep before I 're-spray the fork legs and rebuild them. Hopefully finish the assembly tonight. This is a great build bruv, and may I say getting better and betterer. Keep em coming D&P. Ride and Drive safe peeps🤙🤙🤙
Thanks Ray, good to hear from you buddy, hope the project goes well and you're mate gets a nice birthday present surprise! Glad you're enjoying the videos... cathc up with you soon? Have a great weekend, D&Px
Hi Dave.. erm, YES, this'll be a keeper for sure, im hoping that no matter how many other bikes come and go, me and this old Harley will grow old together..(and disgracefully..lol)
Hi buddy.. no ill do the balance last just before i fit the wheels for the final time.. still got to take them out to paint the brake caliper brackets.. (well the rear at least).. Ill make a video at the time, and maybe it can help a few viewers out there at the same time.. thanks for the nudge,, have a good weekend.. Del.
Beautiful! I was interested about what you said about the back wheel alignment. This is where I get confused. There just seems to be too many different things that need to line up. The sprocket needs to line up so the chain is in line with the front sprocket (tips? without having to buy a laser tool), the wheel also needs to line up with the front wheel (how?) and with the brake caliper/disc. The other factor is the cush drive which, according to yourself are an issue for the old Kawasakis (might also be why shifting into gear gives an audible clunk noise). There just seems to be a lot of factors to line up. Sorry for the deluge but I just had to invest in a new back tyre and I would hate to see it wear unevenly. Best wishes to you and Penny:)
Hi Patricia, ok, I understand your confusion... but it's easy to overthink it, firstly the front and rear wheels line up within their own location, unless you have a frame jig, then you won't make reference between them for alignment... you line up the rear wheel, then line up the front and they will align with each other, provided they are both correct... Your point of reference is the disc and caliper, don't worry about the chain, provided you have made no changes to the wheel, like I have, then your original factory wheel with the correct spcers it came with will line up, but if you have doubt, then use the brake disc and caliper... bolt the wheel in to the bike, and mount the caliper on the disc, you're looking for the disc to line up with the centre seam, or join, between the two halves of the caliper... which it should do if all your stuff is factory...... In regards to wheel alignment, that's a different matter, that's just aligning the adjustors at the rear so they're the same... you should be worrying about lateral alignment, it's not an issue on a factory bike. We have videos on all of this in the Playlist, drop us a line if you can't find what you're looking for! Have a great wekeend, D&Px
OMG this is so convenient to have a lathe in garage. Interesting what will you came up with front fender? Thanks for the video, love this Harley project!
Hi Steven... So sorry we didn't get a chance to email you with thanks before the video went up... we have to focus on the twice weekly video schedule, and with day job too, it often means we get backed up with email admin.. she has it on her list to to mail you tomorrow... Thank you so much for the plates mate, they are perfect, and as you can see, they look awesome on the wall.. With lathe speeds, im only learning this still my self.. but i understand that you turn slow when cutting big hard materials like stainless steel.. drilling out the big hole for the boring bar i slowed it right down to 140 rpm, (slowest mine will go), but for the finishing cuts on the outside u used 400rpm and it worked really well to give a clean smooth finish as you saw... the diameter of the material also makes a difference, the surface speed increases the wider it gets!! if you get yourself a book on "feeds and speeds" it has lots of handy references you can use.. Thank you again mate,, have a great weekend.. D&Px
Nice one del good job on the spacers , I have Avon cobra's on my yam mine are white wall tho they are dame good tyres in dry and wet I am loving the spoked rims too del it's coming on like a house on fire.
I wondered if my front tire was installed correctly when i first started riding. I called Bridgestone about it and apparently, the reason it is like that on the front tire is because the front tire can more effectively displace water when in a lean with the tread pattern pushing the water towards the center of the tire which, when in a lean, isn't really contacting the ground as much as the shoulder. This is caused by the narrow nature of front tires.
Great tip on the spacers and the fat front tyre looks the dogs. Have a question though. , You used the disc alignment within the caliper as datum for setting the wheel position left to right. From that Im assuming that the distance from the disk to the center line of the wheel/tyre is the same as the wheel you removed. Is this something you have to specify when you order the wheels or is this a standard measurement?
Hi buddy, Yes as the hub is symetrical side to side, then take overall width and half it, and you can soon work out the spacers are the wrong size... as the caliper is fixed, not sliding, the disc can only fit in to one place, otherwise you'd have to space the disc itself if the wheel was moved elsewhere... at the risk of this getting over complicated, it'sa ll lined up and dead in the centre... rear wheel next! When you buy the wheels you order them specified to your bike, check out the website and you'll see how easy it is!
Hey Del, whow, the Bike look's so fat with the Tires. Great Video. A modification for Tracker or Bobber would be nice. Black and Dirty like your Fighter...But everything you made is great. Best Greets from Germany. Ride save and watch out for your Fingers by working. The Lathe Machine is great. I hope, i have one to in the Future. Greets Ralf
Hi Ralf, great to hear from you... yes, I love the chunky wheels too, but I'm not considering a bobber style, as it's already a very common, but also the Dyna WideGlide has a different frame with 34 degree fork rake, which is 6 degrees more than normal Dynas, so it will always be a long and graceful looking bike, so I'm not going to chop off the rear guard, I've done that already with a Softail FatBoy, instead I'm going to leave the elegant ducktail fender and long rake forks just with chunky wheels to make it look more solid... it'll look different and that's what I'm aiming for! Thank you for your kind support, it's great to hear from you all the way from Germany!
Hey Del, isn't this wheel hub spacer going to fall off while riding the bike ? Because i don't understand how it will stay put since it's not held by anything (no lip behind the disk). Great vid as always ! Cheers mate.
It's a single disc bike mate, comes from the factory that way, no lugs on the right hand fork leg... however, it's gone from a 290mm fixed disc and single pot caliper to a 330mm floating disc and a 4 pot Brembo caliper, so more than doubled the factory braking force
Nicely done, it's always good to see things like this just in case the knowledge is needed someday. The tyre thing is a funny one, although I know it's right and seen the argument a few times over the years on here, it still does not seem right that they do it like this, as it looks like it's forcing water to the middle. I guess it is just because people know how it works with car tyres but motorcycle tyres must act differently because of their shape, although I think the rear on motorcycles are usually as you'd expect, the mystery kind of continues lol
@@binnawan If you look on a car tyre or rear tyre on a bike, rather than the tread going outside/edge to inside/middle as it rolls it goes inside/middle to outside/edge, to force the water out to the edges, otherwise you'll heighten the chance of aquaplaning because the water is forced to the middle. This is why so many get confused when they see the front tyre of some bikes for the first time, it just does not look right or make sense, even to someone who has worked with tyres for years. but only on cars.
Ahhh, so that's how it's done. Demystified a ton for me there mate!! Nice work, looks bang on. I love those wheels. Now, dare I mention the rear fender? (yes, fender ... it's a Hardly Ableson after all). There's a soupçon of gappage going on, which on the stock Iron and other models was annoying, but on this might attract passing traffic. Err ... any plans? I appreciate there's plenty to do before possibly addressing that of course. By the way, enjoying this build more than anything on the channel for a long time. That's coming from someone who's done the Harley thing and moved on. Can't help but loving this to bits though!!!
Hi Pete, done the Harley thing and moved on, don't really understand that fellah, Harleys for life for me and always will be!... I guess you could say it about 2 strokes when you're a teenager, but I'm right in my element now and right where I wanna stay...other bikes will come and go but me and this ol' girl will grow old together! Not sure what you mean by gappage mate, where are you refering to... thanks for your kind support, all the best to you mate, Del
Hiya Del, love the chunky wheels and tyres they look so much better. What about losing the rear fender??? Do you grease the axles when putting them back in? I have only removed the rear axle on the Tuono so far but have been told to grease it b4 putting it back on.
Hi Damion, the rear fender is an intrinsic part of the Dyna WideGlide style, they're a long and graceful bike styled on a chopper, 5degrees more fork rake than a regular Dyna and they ride lower too (which is why I've only lowered it 3/4" as it didn't need any more)... stick with it buddy, the style will evolve once it all starts being put back together... with the axle, yes you should put a light smear of grease over it, obviously purely to keep it from corroding and rusting on place, they don't need lubrication cos they don't turn, nothing touches them that turns either, the grease is purely so you can get them out in the future... so don't trowel it on, just a light smear with a rag!
even if he takes off the mudgaurd(fender), he would have to fit a rear hugger, front and rear mudgaurds are a legal requirement for M.O.T test in the uk, i am aware some places pass bikes without them but they shouldn't, UK bike cops are on the ball and will issue a defect if you give them reason.
@Delboy's Garage I live in surrey and need a front wheel spacer made. I have converted my KTM EXC-F 250cc to a supermoto and the spacers provided are 0.05mm too narrow. At the moment I have the spacers provided and a 0.05mm Shim washer on and I dont trust that it will be strong enough to ride. could you tell me how I would go about having a new spacer made, I do not have a lathe like yourself and Ive tried google searching machein shops to have new spacers made but I dont seem to have much luck. Could you point me in the direction of a company that would be able to create these or could I send the current spacer to yourself and you create one for a fee.
Can I ask you mate, just to be clear, how it is you've arrived at the conclusion that your conversion threw up a discrepancy of less than two thousands of an inch (0.05mm), about the thickness of a human hair? Is that truly the measurement you believe it's out or have you, perhaps, measured that wrong... just to be clear as you may not even need a shim if that's all there is to it.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the quick response, I came to this conclusion because using the spacers supplied with the wheels the disc contacts with the bracket that holds the calliper in place. the disc has studs holding the 2 parts of the disc together and they stick out further than the disc itself. when I used the stock spacers supplied with the wheels the studs would contact with the bracket holding the calliper, I purchased 8 shims, 4 x 0.05mm shims and 4 x 0.02mm shims. if i used a 0.05 and 0.02mm shim on either side of the wheel the disc them fouled the other side of the calliper bracket as the calliper bracket hooks over the disc so this was spacing it to far. when I used 2 x 0.02 spacers on either side of the wheel this was again fouling the bracket and not wide enough When i used a 0.05mm shim on either side of the wheel it stopped fouling the bracket. so In short. 0.04 shim was not wide enough 0.07 was too wide and 0.05 gave enough clearance either side of the disc not to foul.
just to add I appreciate any help or advice and If my explanation above of my conclusion is not clear I am happy to create a short youtube video to show me using each shim and where it fouls on the calliper bracket to give a better example. Or if you have contact details I could send pictures as im not great at explaining. Im not sure if you have a shop that charges for work but I would be happy to drop the bike off and pay for your time im not looking for freebies ive just been following your channel and trust you have the expertise to know what I need to be safe as I feel using the shim and spacer may not be safe.
The fat front is not the look i prefer on a dyna wide....but...you ARE doing really nice work, and i do enjoy watching! Ive watched every video so far, and wait patiently for every new one! Good job!
It's a shame your channel wasn't around about 10 years or so ago. The school I work in was demolished to make way for a new build, they wouldn't let the technical department take the old lathes, pedestal drills, band saws, hydraulic hack saw, welding gear, solid wood benches with 2 vices fitted,10 Tonne Hydraulic car jack to the new school. So it wasn't even sold off and would come into the hands of the demolition company. I found a new home for some of the items, not myself I must add as I don't have the skills to operate a lathe. But the quality of these machines was first class. We now have Chinese lathes which aren't a patch on what we had before and the work benches are MDF. If you were around at the time you could have had your pick of machines for the cost of a low loader and a trip to Scotland. Now I understand why our councils are in such debt. Great job on the spacers.
Hi buddy, thanks for your kind words, happy with how they turned out...! Sadly this is a story I've heard a few times about schools, they don't like to spend any money, but they sure know how to waste it! I hear common stories about vintage engineering machinery, probably bought back in the days of pounds, shillings and pence, and assets who's values are long since forgotten... Also, school budgets are controlled by people who are younger than the lathes we're talking about, they've no idea what they're throwin away, they sell contracts for projects like you describe, to greedy people who know exactly what they're inheriting... and exactly how to tie it up and make sure no-one gets their hands on it!... very sad, aye mate?
Hi buddy I actually have a front tyre on the front of the Harley, not splitting hairs, but it is actually a front tyre, marked front fitment on the side of it.. it has a slightly different tread to the rear one, and has a different code number... interestingly, you actually buy them as a pair... and in fact even the width isn't exactly the same.. the front is 130mm wide and the rear is 135mm, they just look the same.... and you're dead right, the front appears to rotate backwards if you look at the tread, it's certainly a subject that gets a lot of people hot and sweaty!
You are the man. I just ordered a 21inch front wheel for my FLT. This video is a huge help. Thanks again brother.
Most welcome, glad it helped you, take care and enjoy your project!
your work is sheer motivation for DIY guy.. shop etiquette, cleanliness and explanation is spot on.... cheers!!!
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is very much appreciated.
Now this video really made me want/need to buy myself a lathe.. Again a good and informative video.. I really like this type of rebuilding/making modifications videos and in my mind you have made some of the best videos of this type with your rebuild/mod videos that one can find on UA-cam!!!! Take care and Cheers!
Blimey, thank you Tom, that's very kind of you, really glad you're enjoying them, really good to have your support!
Love it Del. Who ever gave you that pointer to align the wheel that way needs a high five or big thumbs up. Wheels look great on there. Still love that lathe of yours.
Thank you buddy, that's very kind, you're right it's great to have generous people who share knowledge and guidance!
You can teach an old dog new tricks👍🤣👌 Another great episode and great to see you acknowledging all the comments Del, even those who questioned the tyre rotation👌 I had every confidence in you😋 Just loving the look of the bike, as I’ve said before the perfect combination and like bikes I’ve loved of old; interested in your rear fender plan, will be watching to the end for sure🙏🏻
Thanks Gareth, really appreciate your kind words, and i hope you like the finished outcome.. i have most of it planned out in my head, but ill let the bike go its own way a little and evolve to the best overall finish... take care and have a great weekend.. Del.
Nice job Del, those AVON tires are flipping AWESOME! I will never use anything else on my bikes.... light up through though the twisties they are remarkable! Happy trails, Doug
Thank you Doug, I appreciate that feedback, I've heard only good things about them, and I do intend to 'ride' this bike!
You made good use of that lathe this week, Del! Great idea regarding slicing up those washers. That front setup is really looking nice. Am enroute home and had the pleasure of watching this in LAX! Have a great weekend... 🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary, thank you Sir... happy with the front so far, and really looking forward to getting it on the road! Enjoy your time at home buddy, D&Px
Moonfleet41 thx. Del and Penny...
Was working 17h yesterday and feeling beat up this morning but wotching your work made my day love your skills man ! Keep up the good stuff!
Thank you Timo, i work long 15hr days at the day job sometimes too, pretty crap aye, and im glad we could cheer you up buddy... have a good weekend.. Del.
Moonfleet41 have a great weekend too and greetings to Ms Del 👍🏻
Great job Del. There are reasons why some people wrench and some people don't. Some people get it and some people don't.. Keep up the good work. Oh yea nice tip with the washers I will be using that one, thanks.
Thanks brother, great tip wasn't it, one of those, doh why didn't I think of that moments lol... and truer words never said, have a great week, ride safe mate, D&Px
Your project is coming along great looks fantastic with wheels and what a good investment in the lathe you are making your own parts to keep you moving along in the build all the best to penny
Sure am Kevin, the lathe is a great asset, and making things is giving me great practice too... good to hear from you, all the best mate, D&Px
Great video - excellent presentation, filming and production as usual. Thanks for passing along the tip about the spacers, and for sharing the detail of the work on the lathe.
Thanks John, really appreciate your kind words, glad you enjoy the videos, we do put a lot of work in to them, so it's gret to know they're appreciated, all the very best, D&Px
you got to love a common sense and effective solution. excellent.
Excellent. Your video's are real work being done. I learn a lot from them and very instructional. keep up the good work and be "Set Apart" from the rest. Great stuff.
As simple as that. What an idea. Good job! Been mucking with tools and weldors for years and never thought,Tire rotation is for water displacement. Great job.
Del, that 3/4 washer trick is dead smart! I never woulda thought of that either. I’m definitely gonna use that one whenever I start working on my project bike again. That woulda save me so much time instead of stumbling around overthinking measurements and whatnot.
Sure thing buddy, can't claim that one, it was a kind suggestion from a helpful viewer who's done it themselves before!
I've been binge watching this series and I just realized that I'm caught up to the last video. It's like being punched in the gut! These are unbelievably well done. The advice, video quality, editing, humor...everything is great. I only wish you had a bigger shop so you could spread out more tools. If you want to come to Michigan, I would volunteer my 26 X 28 foot garage (it is currently -5 degrees Fahrenheit though).
Hey buddy... SOLD.. i have never needed much persuading to make the move to America, we have friends who are like family in Detroit, and lots of other YT friends all over America.. but life and commitments keep us here in Blighty for now, its just a matter of keeping head down and pedal hard for the next couple of years and we can plan the next move... One of the best things about the USA is your awesome space.. there is nothing i would like more that a massive garage with enough room to spread out all the equipment i need and stop having to make do and adapt other tools to work for what i need.. the biggest benefit would be to have three lifts, two with projects on them so we can alternate video subjects, and the third for servicing tutorials... guys could drop by and do their own service work under supervision and learn along the way.. what a dream come true that would be... but we'll just keep peddling for now, and see what the future brings.. its all about the funding as with all things... Take care and have a wonderful weekend sir.. all the best.. Del.
This would fix my bike. I had the exact same idea and landed on your video so I know I'm right.
Thanks man!
Thanks mate, glad it helped, have fun with it!
@Moonfleet41 Just a suggestion. If I send you my original spacers, would you be willing to make me a new pair? I just need to figure out this weekend how I get the brake calipers to sit well. I have a 21 Triumph Rocket and standing in front of the bike I notice it's off set (parallel to forks) to the left. So the bike leans to the left when releasing handlebars. This shouldn't be and I think this will fix it. The difference is bigger than the one shown on this video.
Gorgeous wheel/disc combination! This bike is going to be stunning when complete! Great job... hi to Pen!
Thanks Byron, glad you enjoyed!
Iv'e done everythng you did except put the spacers in because looking from the front it appears the tire is a little farther to the left is that ok as long as everything else lines up? it's looking like the fender and tire won't be matched up and wondering if i should put washers or something behing the caliper to move wheel over about 1/4' or 3/8' more toward center. Thanks once again.
Lovely job, Del. Your problem-solving and execution skills are tip-top, as ever. That front wheel looks great! 👍
Thanks Keith, appreciate your kind support as always, have a great weekend and see you soon! D&Px
Hi, nice job. Lovely to see you working with the lathe. That first spacer was hot ..... lol, thanks for the video. Gus
Del great job as always loving this build. You make machining those spacers look so easy. Thank you so for your knowledge. Boy you make me want to build a bike. Thank you Penny
Thanks Charles for your kind words, we're glad to know we maybe inspire people, like you, to get motivated, just sharing a few ideas, glad you enjoy! Thanks for all your support, and go build that bike, you know you'll enjoy it! D&Px
Great tip from bongo there. Love it when people share ideas. Thanks to your motivation via simple skills, I bought my first multimeter today!!!😅. £10 in lidl's. Electrics? How hard can it be!! Think the brushes are shot on my starter motor. Ta for the encouragement mate.
Hope you get it sorted buddy, thanks for your support, much appreciated!
Brilliant work mate 👌🏼are you sure that's the right direction for the tyre 😂😂
Love the cut washer idea!!!
Wonderful job indeed, precision work ❤😍💯. There's a lot to learn from you, you are persuing your passion afterall ❤️😍💯. Stay blessed you always. I will reach out to you for any questions.
Thank you for your kind words, am glad you're enjoying the project!
@@Moonfleet41 absolutely enjoying and learning a lot too
Vids have really went up a notch since you started using the lathe to fabricate bits. As always, great work!
Thank you most kindly Graeme, settling in now after a bit of practice..
Hi Delboy, the trick the spacers was great. I'm loving the making on your parts with your new toy. Hoping to get one myself for my trike ( MAVIS ) my wife gets worried when I watch your videos...... knowing that il be putting one in my garage 😍. As always keeping me inspired. Massive thank you 😎
Gary... you have a Trike called Mavis?.. Awesome mate.. i love it. and i love Trikes too.. glad we can inspire you in some way, and if you need a get-out-of-jail-free card.. just tell her you can make stuff to sell and that will earn yo money.. see, easy..lol!
hello, the rim is connected with the brake disc and aligned with the caliper. How do you make sure the rim is aligned with the bike's frame?
Brilliant vid, Del, bikes and metalwork, what could be better! You and Penny have a great weekend.
Thanks buddy, apprecaite the good wishes, you have yourself a fantastic weekend too!
Hi! Excellent work. My suggestion will be to, first center the front wheel with the fork, frame and the rear wheel., it is the most important step, the have them line up perfectly. Second adjust either the disk or the caliper to fit the wheel not the opposite around. The bike has to run straight first, then break properly. For the front tire, A rule of thumb is, if you use a rear tire in the front you have to revers it since it is not a traction wheel but a slave to the rear one. This is a theory not proven that make sens to me. I have seen them mounted both way, Keep up the good work I love your channel.
Thanks buddy, it is a 'front' tyre in the front of the bike, not a rear tyre... these days they make tyres that are the same profile as the rear, but they make them front specific... as I knew this was gonna be a big ol' drama, as it's happened before, I made it clear in the video infr 17:07 so that everybody's clear... in fact, if you look closely at the arrow at the side of the tyre wall, at 17:27 it says clearly on there 'front fitment'..
Of course you can put actual rears on the front and the other way round and yes, you''r right, you should oppose them when you do this... thanks for your input Rene, take care, all the best, Del
Nice job thanks for the video
Thanks for your help with the spacers! How do I send you a license plate?
I’m love watching this bike taking shape, I can’t wait to hear it start up.
Thanks a lot
Kind regards.
Thanks Beans!
Great video mate...how many people went "oh ffs i should have thought of that when you cut the washers...great job
Well i certainly did for one when Bonzo told me... proper 'slap forehead moment'..! Thanks for your kind support mate.. Del.
Muy friend
Hello and ....the only I whant say it's.....you are .....ONE AWESOME GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ✌️🤓
Wooooow!!!
Again
I can't wait to the next episode
Best wishes buddy 🤘🤓👍
Thank you David, your messages always make us smile and think of you.. take care and have a wonderful Sunday.. D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 you to my friend 🤓✌️
The wheel and this disc look so awesome, man this bike will be gorgeous
Thank you Fabio..
About the high temp paint, do you need to cure or bake? Thanks
No Sir, it will cure in it's own time eventually, heat just speeds up the process!
Thanks. That bike is going to look badass. You're inspired me, now you're costing me money!
One more thing, how many cans of vht for the pipes?
What material are you using for spacers
304 Stainless Steel mate.
Thank you
Must be so satisfying fabricating those spacers. I would be hunting all over the internet for the correct stuff. Awesome!
I think it follows the old cliched stroy, give a man a fish and he'll eat for a day, give a man a fishing rod and he'll feed himself for life... fed up with buying parts that I could make year after year, it's so much more satisfying to do it yourself, and when someone says 'where did you get those spacers?', you can be cool and say I made them myself... well worth saving up for, so many things you can make with it!
I plan on doing this with my 05 Wide Glide and plan on a 09 Fat boy rim chrome and a 140/75/R17 with a Heritage Softail fender burns no trim or holes . My question is what size front tire/rim did you put on it?
My choice was a 16x3 rim, and a 130/90/16 Avon Cobra tyre... same as i used at the back.
Hi again I have just a couple questions regarding my first one. I have two brand new fenders and one looks exactly like yours but it’s only 5-3/8” wide and after I purchased it I realized what my rim calls for 140/75/r17 that is to wide for rim so first question with a 3.5” rim how far up can I go 130/80/17 120/80 what do you think? Also after I bought it it claimed for 19 to 21” rims. My second question my rim has 25mm bearings so I bought reducers to 3/4” will that be enough or should the whole hub be reduced with a reducer sleeve to 3/4” also. Where and what width is your fender purchased? It looks wider then 5-3/8” and I have a bike jack but it won’t fit under bike it looks like a black cover possibly for transmission and I don’t want to damage anything you’re very good and have ways us Americans do differently but you make more since. Thanks again if you can help on tire with reducers and tire size and fender that would help as I wanted a fat boy fender but unless I reduce width or stick with heritage Softail fender or buy the one you have. And I’m making sure reducers is all I’ll need. Thanks!
Del that was a great video, almost inspired to buy my own lathe and fetter in the garage!
Go for it Shaun, you'll love it mate.
Moonfleet41 if I had the room Del I would. It’s on my list going forward when we move though.
Hi iv'e done everything you told me except put my spacers n because the wheel sits farther to the left and if i put fender on i won't be dead center does the wheel being farther to the fork brake side about 3/8' matter? or should add washers to caliper on back side to move tire closer to center?
Keep the spacers correct as factory spec, my wheel also sat about 3/8" off centre under the fender, but alignment with the front wheel is far more important and that will be given by the wheel spacers.
@@Moonfleet41 ok I understand that so even though my wheel is offset pretty much whatever the difference just replace the spacers with one even though a bit different in size as close to the old ones. I have a rim with 50 miles on it and the bearings are 25mm so I bought reducers so that shortens the spacer happens on each side since they stick out a little farther than just the bearings. My old spacers are different size each side and my replacement kit will be smaller since I don’t have a lathe I bought a variety size kit. Than the bearing reducers and offset shouldn’t be a problem?
I checked everything but since i put reducers in from 25mm to 3/4" my spacer will be a different size since they stick out a little on each side but i did notice with the factory caliper mounted the split in caliper is farther to the right and not aligned with the rotor and haven't a clue of how to get those to center if i could my wheel would be more towards right and more centered. Is there something i'm missing or do i have to completely collapse the caliper and hope my wheel can move over a little but if the piston is pushing in from outside i won't be able to move wheel since its fixed to frame. There has to be a way to modify without shimming caliper in more towards bike. Sorry to keep bothering you but when i'm done i'll definitely contribute to your channel Thanks again from America.
@@Captainkleen Hi there, ok, by how much is the split line of the caliper off centre from the rotor? If it's maybe 1/16th or so, you can shim your caliper with washers, but if it's significant and too much to shim, then you still have an anomaly somewhere with in the spacer set up, it's difficult to diagnose without seeing it (I know everyone says that), but genuinely these kind of problems are best fathomed out by looking at them, and is very vague to try and understand an explanation over email... but with my Harley, the rear Brembo caliper was shimmed inwards by 1/16 with a couple of spacer washers... and it was fine and worked perfectly safely, so I hope that helps again.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi again I put the original wheel back on to get an idea a checked the split in caliper to rotor and it looks like the original wheel is a under 1/4” about 5/16” in toward forks the tire looks centered but the split is like new wheel off about 5/16” towards other fork and the original tire is centered in forks with original spacers so if original is off too maybe that’s the way original calipers are. The main thing other than both being the same the wheel on new rim is off center about 1/8” with caliper collapsed it looks a lot better not noticeable that’s with caliper collapse and both wheels from right end of hub to end of rotor are about the same 6 1/4” about so their the same the only thing off is the split in caliper to center of both original wheel and new wheel both about 5/16” and that’s how original came.
Hi, recently I removed my 2012 Sportster superlow front wheel. Then when I reassembled it again, I noticed a drag when I installed the caliper. Do you know how drag could be normal ? By the way. On the manual it says that narrow spacer is on the bike’s right side and the wide one on the left side( caliper side). I’m not sure if they where o that’s position when I removed them at first time.
Hi mate, so what you're saying is, it's possible you have the spacers in the wrong order? Try and find a schematic diaphragm of the front end and it'll give you an insight in the order of assembly, as there should certainly be no drag in the free running of the wheel.
Delboy's Garage Hi. Well, I deicided to change the spacers order and I solved the issue. My concern now is why does the service manual is so confused in this part. Anyway, thanks for taking your time to answer. Keep safe .
Great video again Del but I have to say that tyre, wheel and disk combo is off the scale cool looking m8 and the cut washer trick was a real time saver
Thanks buddy.. proper chunky aye.. have a great weekend.. Del.
@What if I put eligible washer to the brake caliper holder axle that attach the said to the fork????
love the cut out washer's what a neat idea .your video's are addictive lol as soon as ive watched them i'm looking forward to the next episode.. have a great weekend guy's
Thanks Tom, really appreciate that, we try really to make them progressive and entertaining, so it's good to know you enjoy, thanks for your kind support, it's much appreciated, D&Px
I've got to say, you are becoming the master of parting off! Nice👍
Hi Jim, coming from you Sir, that is praise indeed, thank you... it's certainly a scary process and just seems to be a matter of diving in hard enough and not being scared of it...! Aluminium is easy, but I didn't think it would be this easier with stainless steel, being so much harder... same goes for pushing the big drill bit down the centre to make a hole for the boring bar, lots of oil and you just seem to need to pile in there hard with the chuck turning slow and it just seems to work, unless I'm just lucky lol ! Take care mate and thank you so much for your constant support... Del
I know an old thread, but, is it by design that the non-brake disc side uses the axle itself as the axle pinch rather than the fork slider? By that I mean, the axle has a hard shoulder that the spacer compresses on rather than the inner face of the fork slider. The shoulder of the axle then exits the fork slider and a clam shell then secures that extended bit of the axle. This effectively releases any lateral pressure on the non-disc side fork slider, making that slider without any direct compression on the fork slider at that point. The disc side of the fork has a lateral pinch as you would expect. Another question on this video - all the bikes I've had the pleasure (now that's a subjective "pleasure") of working on, normally the spacer will seat itself inwards of a dust seal and rest on the inner race of the bearing... in this video, there did not seem to be any dust seal and just a hard face of the bearing. Otherwise, good commentary, great lathe work, and a good result. Thank you
Hi Del. Quick question...what keeps the Disc Spacer in place?
Friction mate... it's an interference fit in the disc... meaning that it fits over the hub cleanly, but the disc binds on it very slightly and as it's soft aluminium, when you torque the disc down it wedges it in solid!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks , Was wondering.
Morning Del, James Cramer here. Absolutely loving the videos mate especially the direction your going with this new project. I can't see you selling this one especially after all the great performance upgrades. This thing is going to handle beautifully, with thick tyres, amazing shocks and the low riding style.....lovely lol Just a quick question off subject. I am reassembling my front forks on my 2001 Yamaha FJR1300 and can't remember which way up the concave retaining ring goes that sits under the oil seal...is it concave up or concave down? Thanks for all your help as always. Love to you both.
Hi James, good to hear from you again, Thanks for your kind words on the Harley, it's going to be a keeper for sure, and with luck we'll grow old together no matter what other bikes pass through..... With your forks.. it sounds like you;re referring to the washer that the seal sits down onto, and in the past ive only ever seen them flat.. not concave.. i can;t find a picture of it in any parts diagrams, if you have a manual, maybe there is an image of it or schematic diag. that will show it... if the other fork is still together,, maybe check that one for orientation?.. sorry can;t be more help without seeing it buddy... have a good weekend.. D&P
@@Moonfleet41 Morning Del, thanks mate for taking the time to answer my emails as I know you have thousands to get through. I have a manual, seen countless UA-cam videos and searched several websites and even asked the boys on FJR forum but there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice. Going on why it should be concave suggests me to believe it should be concave pointing upwards because if any oil should bypass the top bushing it would then disperse to the outside of the oil seal rather than the inner face. Never mind I'll sort it out somehow lol Love to you both.
Hi Dell. Love the videos. One question, what stops the disc spacer working it's way out in use.
It's aluminium Mark and held wedged in place by the disc, pretty tight in fact, and when I bolted the disc down, you could feel the disc carrier snuck down over it, so it is an interference fit, which means it's going nowhere mate, I think tey machine it to fit tight.
Excellent work as always love the lathe vids 👍
Hello, just wondering if the wheel spacers are supposed to be spinning with the wheel? It seems as though they are in the video, but not sure if they are supposed to... Thank you and awesome instructional video!
Awesome explanation in this video.
Nice job matey, good progress! I tried doing a little garage video the other day about this old honda cub im doing up. I posted the vid on my channel but now have a new found respect for your vids lol, was a right pain in the arse lugging the tripod around to film each little bit and i only did a short video!
haha welcome to my world brother! It's insane how a 10min job can be 2hrs filming... I maybe spend 8hrs in the garage to film a video now and that equals up to about 2.5hrs raw footage and then 8hrs editing makes it a 20min video and that's with almost a decade's practice!!!!?
nice lathe, i would like a small one but i only have room for one, and i dont know if you can get dual use ones for metal and wood.
i could get by with a small metal one you can turn delron and acrylic on them.
Glad you mentioned about the tyre. I was thinking it was backwards the whole video.
My OCD is killing me over that the whole time
For me to do this so i have to put the slots in the washer ?
If you mean the slot spacers, then yes and you can keep them in future in your toolbox.
The tyre is fitted correctly . GOT IT .
What size front tire?
Lovely tidy job Del......can't beat a bit of stainless!!
Quick question, not related to this video......what's the mini pillar drill your using, link if possible please??
Hi Gaz, a link which of couse is handy, but my pillar drill is an old antique one from the 70's I got from a second hand tool shop, but Machine Mart make a copy of it under the Clarke brand, and they have a range of quite a few, so you can chose one that suits you... mine's a Nu_Tools machine made from all steel and metal, roughly twice the weight of the MM copy, and it does the job, plus it was just £50, so am proper happy.
@@Moonfleet41 is yours the 5 speed version?
@@digga1667 Yes mate, only by changing belts in the top casing...
Hi Del love your vids , but the front wheel seem to spin effortlessly without the brake caliper on but once fitted it seemed to be binding and not spinning as it should... ?
The caliper still needs to be stripped and cleaned out with new pads etc etc.. so its just binding a very tiny bit at the mo...it'll be perfect once i sort the caliper out buddy... have a good weekend, and thanks for your support.. Del.
Hey Del, can you point me to that wera tool kit video review you did? Thx
Here you go mate: ua-cam.com/video/gxsON5T-5O0/v-deo.html
Sweet....Question...Since I am new to lathes I see you line up the cuter with a straight edge and a right angle square, is that for the angle of the cutting blade? Always a pleasure, Take Care
Hi Bradley, that is it guage the height of the cutting tool, you press the tool against the material, and trap a steel rule inbetween, if it stands dead upright, then the tool is dead in the centre in terms of height... you can line it up with the tailstock also, but this is far quicker and dead accurate, as you can see from the facing cut!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks Bud
How do Bruv. 🤘. I'm following this build very closely especially cos my little fork protect, which I may sadly say has come to a hold again. Work commitment and I'm helping my mate getting a "second hand" 125cc moped for ready for his birthday next week. That's going well, only the forks to finish stripping final prep before I 're-spray the fork legs and rebuild them. Hopefully finish the assembly tonight. This is a great build bruv, and may I say getting better and betterer. Keep em coming D&P. Ride and Drive safe peeps🤙🤙🤙
Thanks Ray, good to hear from you buddy, hope the project goes well and you're mate gets a nice birthday present surprise! Glad you're enjoying the videos... cathc up with you soon? Have a great weekend, D&Px
Lovin watchin this build Del i reckon your probably gonna wanna keep this motorsykle once finished 😄👍
Hi Dave.. erm, YES, this'll be a keeper for sure, im hoping that no matter how many other bikes come and go, me and this old Harley will grow old together..(and disgracefully..lol)
Wow it looks absolutely beautiful nice fitment
Nice job, it looks great 🤘🤘
Nice work Del, will you be balancing the wheels now the discs are fitted mate?
Hi buddy.. no ill do the balance last just before i fit the wheels for the final time.. still got to take them out to paint the brake caliper brackets.. (well the rear at least).. Ill make a video at the time, and maybe it can help a few viewers out there at the same time.. thanks for the nudge,, have a good weekend.. Del.
Cool stuff, I got a static wheel balancer for Christmas, not had a chance to test it out yet.....
Beautiful! I was interested about what you said about the back wheel alignment. This is where I get confused. There just seems to be too many different things that need to line up. The sprocket needs to line up so the chain is in line with the front sprocket (tips? without having to buy a laser tool), the wheel also needs to line up with the front wheel (how?) and with the brake caliper/disc. The other factor is the cush drive which, according to yourself are an issue for the old Kawasakis (might also be why shifting into gear gives an audible clunk noise). There just seems to be a lot of factors to line up. Sorry for the deluge but I just had to invest in a new back tyre and I would hate to see it wear unevenly. Best wishes to you and Penny:)
Hi Patricia, ok, I understand your confusion... but it's easy to overthink it, firstly the front and rear wheels line up within their own location, unless you have a frame jig, then you won't make reference between them for alignment... you line up the rear wheel, then line up the front and they will align with each other, provided they are both correct...
Your point of reference is the disc and caliper, don't worry about the chain, provided you have made no changes to the wheel, like I have, then your original factory wheel with the correct spcers it came with will line up, but if you have doubt, then use the brake disc and caliper... bolt the wheel in to the bike, and mount the caliper on the disc, you're looking for the disc to line up with the centre seam, or join, between the two halves of the caliper... which it should do if all your stuff is factory...... In regards to wheel alignment, that's a different matter, that's just aligning the adjustors at the rear so they're the same... you should be worrying about lateral alignment, it's not an issue on a factory bike. We have videos on all of this in the Playlist, drop us a line if you can't find what you're looking for! Have a great wekeend, D&Px
Yes, that's what it says in my Haynes manual as well. It seems almost too simple. :)
Thank you for that. I get to watch more interesting videos and learn stuff :)
OMG this is so convenient to have a lathe in garage. Interesting what will you came up with front fender? Thanks for the video, love this Harley project!
Thanks Zahar, glad you're enjoying, and thanks also for your support!
im glad to see you got the lic plates.. they look cool question..... is 150 rpm the slowest speed on some lathes good? or 80 rpm better????
Hi Steven... So sorry we didn't get a chance to email you with thanks before the video went up... we have to focus on the twice weekly video schedule, and with day job too, it often means we get backed up with email admin.. she has it on her list to to mail you tomorrow... Thank you so much for the plates mate, they are perfect, and as you can see, they look awesome on the wall.. With lathe speeds, im only learning this still my self.. but i understand that you turn slow when cutting big hard materials like stainless steel.. drilling out the big hole for the boring bar i slowed it right down to 140 rpm, (slowest mine will go), but for the finishing cuts on the outside u used 400rpm and it worked really well to give a clean smooth finish as you saw... the diameter of the material also makes a difference, the surface speed increases the wider it gets!! if you get yourself a book on "feeds and speeds" it has lots of handy references you can use.. Thank you again mate,, have a great weekend.. D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for your reply and it was a pleasure seeing the lic plates on your wall. cheers ...
Thanks again buddy, we both really appreciate your support, D&Px
Great vid Del those wheels look great on the bike.
Nice one del good job on the spacers , I have Avon cobra's on my yam mine are white wall tho they are dame good tyres in dry and wet I am loving the spoked rims too del it's coming on like a house on fire.
Thanks WW, great to have your endorsement on the tyres... and glad you're enjoying the build, have a great weekend, D&Px
Nice job and neatly done
Love the look of the fat front end. Good work.
Such a great spacer tip !! Gotta love that !! Bonzo for man of the match !!
Great video, may I ask what is the size of this tire?
It was the Imperial equivalent of 130/90/16 !
@@Moonfleet41
thanks for the swift response
Nice job Del, that wheel looks sweet mate. Penny and you have a very relaxing weekend. P.s It's only 32C here today LOL Cheers mate.
Ha ha 32?.. its one tenth of that hear, and damp... deep joy.. Sunday lunch in the pub, and an afternoon movie i think..!
Those wheels are perfect mate ...#drool
ah thanks buddy, they will make all the difference to the makeover!
I wondered if my front tire was installed correctly when i first started riding. I called Bridgestone about it and apparently, the reason it is like that on the front tire is because the front tire can more effectively displace water when in a lean with the tread pattern pushing the water towards the center of the tire which, when in a lean, isn't really contacting the ground as much as the shoulder. This is caused by the narrow nature of front tires.
Nicely done.
Great tip on the spacers and the fat front tyre looks the dogs.
Have a question though. , You used the disc alignment within the caliper as datum for setting the wheel position left to right. From that Im assuming that the distance from the disk to the center line of the wheel/tyre is the same as the wheel you removed. Is this something you have to specify when you order the wheels or is this a standard measurement?
Hi buddy, Yes as the hub is symetrical side to side, then take overall width and half it, and you can soon work out the spacers are the wrong size... as the caliper is fixed, not sliding, the disc can only fit in to one place, otherwise you'd have to space the disc itself if the wheel was moved elsewhere... at the risk of this getting over complicated, it'sa ll lined up and dead in the centre... rear wheel next! When you buy the wheels you order them specified to your bike, check out the website and you'll see how easy it is!
Cheers Del
Hey Del, whow, the Bike look's so fat with the Tires. Great Video. A modification for Tracker or Bobber would be nice. Black and Dirty like your Fighter...But everything you made is great. Best Greets from Germany. Ride save and watch out for your Fingers by working. The Lathe Machine is great. I hope, i have one to in the Future. Greets Ralf
Hi Ralf, great to hear from you... yes, I love the chunky wheels too, but I'm not considering a bobber style, as it's already a very common, but also the Dyna WideGlide has a different frame with 34 degree fork rake, which is 6 degrees more than normal Dynas, so it will always be a long and graceful looking bike, so I'm not going to chop off the rear guard, I've done that already with a Softail FatBoy, instead I'm going to leave the elegant ducktail fender and long rake forks just with chunky wheels to make it look more solid... it'll look different and that's what I'm aiming for! Thank you for your kind support, it's great to hear from you all the way from Germany!
nice neat job matey
Hey Del, isn't this wheel hub spacer going to fall off while riding the bike ? Because i don't understand how it will stay put since it's not held by anything (no lip behind the disk). Great vid as always ! Cheers mate.
Its an interference fit mate, made from soft alloy and wedged in there good and proper..!
@@Moonfleet41 Ooh i see now, thanks for your lights Del ! Cheers
How come only single disc or did I miss something?
It's a single disc bike mate, comes from the factory that way, no lugs on the right hand fork leg... however, it's gone from a 290mm fixed disc and single pot caliper to a 330mm floating disc and a 4 pot Brembo caliper, so more than doubled the factory braking force
@@Moonfleet41 OK then. I didn't know sorry!
Nicely done, it's always good to see things like this just in case the knowledge is needed someday. The tyre thing is a funny one, although I know it's right and seen the argument a few times over the years on here, it still does not seem right that they do it like this, as it looks like it's forcing water to the middle.
I guess it is just because people know how it works with car tyres but motorcycle tyres must act differently because of their shape, although I think the rear on motorcycles are usually as you'd expect, the mystery kind of continues lol
@@binnawan If you look on a car tyre or rear tyre on a bike, rather than the tread going outside/edge to inside/middle as it rolls it goes inside/middle to outside/edge, to force the water out to the edges, otherwise you'll heighten the chance of aquaplaning because the water is forced to the middle.
This is why so many get confused when they see the front tyre of some bikes for the first time, it just does not look right or make sense, even to someone who has worked with tyres for years. but only on cars.
Really good video some nice tips there del
Ahhh, so that's how it's done. Demystified a ton for me there mate!! Nice work, looks bang on. I love those wheels.
Now, dare I mention the rear fender? (yes, fender ... it's a Hardly Ableson after all). There's a soupçon of gappage going on, which on the stock Iron and other models was annoying, but on this might attract passing traffic. Err ... any plans? I appreciate there's plenty to do before possibly addressing that of course.
By the way, enjoying this build more than anything on the channel for a long time. That's coming from someone who's done the Harley thing and moved on. Can't help but loving this to bits though!!!
Hi Pete, done the Harley thing and moved on, don't really understand that fellah, Harleys for life for me and always will be!... I guess you could say it about 2 strokes when you're a teenager, but I'm right in my element now and right where I wanna stay...other bikes will come and go but me and this ol' girl will grow old together! Not sure what you mean by gappage mate, where are you refering to... thanks for your kind support, all the best to you mate, Del
Hiya Del, love the chunky wheels and tyres they look so much better.
What about losing the rear fender???
Do you grease the axles when putting them back in?
I have only removed the rear axle on the Tuono so far but have been told to grease it b4 putting it back on.
Hi Damion, the rear fender is an intrinsic part of the Dyna WideGlide style, they're a long and graceful bike styled on a chopper, 5degrees more fork rake than a regular Dyna and they ride lower too (which is why I've only lowered it 3/4" as it didn't need any more)... stick with it buddy, the style will evolve once it all starts being put back together... with the axle, yes you should put a light smear of grease over it, obviously purely to keep it from corroding and rusting on place, they don't need lubrication cos they don't turn, nothing touches them that turns either, the grease is purely so you can get them out in the future... so don't trowel it on, just a light smear with a rag!
I don't understand why so many negative comments about the rear fender, the bobtail fender is classic Harley
@@pongobird everyone to their own but that duck tail ain't pretty.
"Don't trowel it on …" LoL
even if he takes off the mudgaurd(fender), he would have to fit a rear hugger, front and rear mudgaurds are a legal requirement for M.O.T test in the uk, i am aware some places pass bikes without them but they shouldn't, UK bike cops are on the ball and will issue a defect if you give them reason.
@Delboy's Garage I live in surrey and need a front wheel spacer made. I have converted my KTM EXC-F 250cc to a supermoto and the spacers provided are 0.05mm too narrow. At the moment I have the spacers provided and a 0.05mm Shim washer on and I dont trust that it will be strong enough to ride. could you tell me how I would go about having a new spacer made, I do not have a lathe like yourself and Ive tried google searching machein shops to have new spacers made but I dont seem to have much luck. Could you point me in the direction of a company that would be able to create these or could I send the current spacer to yourself and you create one for a fee.
Can I ask you mate, just to be clear, how it is you've arrived at the conclusion that your conversion threw up a discrepancy of less than two thousands of an inch (0.05mm), about the thickness of a human hair? Is that truly the measurement you believe it's out or have you, perhaps, measured that wrong... just to be clear as you may not even need a shim if that's all there is to it.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for the quick response, I came to this conclusion because using the spacers supplied with the wheels the disc contacts with the bracket that holds the calliper in place.
the disc has studs holding the 2 parts of the disc together and they stick out further than the disc itself. when I used the stock spacers supplied with the wheels the studs would contact with the bracket holding the calliper,
I purchased 8 shims, 4 x 0.05mm shims and 4 x 0.02mm shims.
if i used a 0.05 and 0.02mm shim on either side of the wheel the disc them fouled the other side of the calliper bracket as the calliper bracket hooks over the disc so this was spacing it to far.
when I used 2 x 0.02 spacers on either side of the wheel this was again fouling the bracket and not wide enough
When i used a 0.05mm shim on either side of the wheel it stopped fouling the bracket.
so In short. 0.04 shim was not wide enough
0.07 was too wide and 0.05 gave enough clearance either side of the disc not to foul.
just to add I appreciate any help or advice and If my explanation above of my conclusion is not clear I am happy to create a short youtube video to show me using each shim and where it fouls on the calliper bracket to give a better example. Or if you have contact details I could send pictures as im not great at explaining. Im not sure if you have a shop that charges for work but I would be happy to drop the bike off and pay for your time im not looking for freebies ive just been following your channel and trust you have the expertise to know what I need to be safe as I feel using the shim and spacer may not be safe.
The fat front is not the look i prefer on a dyna wide....but...you ARE doing really nice work, and i do enjoy watching! Ive watched every video so far, and wait patiently for every new one! Good job!
Glad to see the little lathe is earning it’s keep 😂 😂 😂
Sure is buddy, so much more I can do with that lathe!
Great Job del 👏👌🏻👍
Ha Ha........ "Can I have that time back please"? If only, I'd have years extra to go at !! :)
It's a shame your channel wasn't around about 10 years or so ago. The school I work in was demolished to make way for a new build, they wouldn't let the technical department take the old lathes, pedestal drills, band saws, hydraulic hack saw, welding gear, solid wood benches with 2 vices fitted,10 Tonne Hydraulic car jack to the new school. So it wasn't even sold off and would come into the hands of the demolition company. I found a new home for some of the items, not myself I must add as I don't have the skills to operate a lathe. But the quality of these machines was first class.
We now have Chinese lathes which aren't a patch on what we had before and the work benches are MDF.
If you were around at the time you could have had your pick of machines for the cost of a low loader and a trip to Scotland.
Now I understand why our councils are in such debt.
Great job on the spacers.
Hi buddy, thanks for your kind words, happy with how they turned out...!
Sadly this is a story I've heard a few times about schools, they don't like to spend any money, but they sure know how to waste it! I hear common stories about vintage engineering machinery, probably bought back in the days of pounds, shillings and pence, and assets who's values are long since forgotten... Also, school budgets are controlled by people who are younger than the lathes we're talking about, they've no idea what they're throwin away, they sell contracts for projects like you describe, to greedy people who know exactly what they're inheriting... and exactly how to tie it up and make sure no-one gets their hands on it!... very sad, aye mate?
You have a back tire on the front of you Harley. Rotation is counter clockwise . It will not make any difference . Great video cheers
Hi buddy I actually have a front tyre on the front of the Harley, not splitting hairs, but it is actually a front tyre, marked front fitment on the side of it.. it has a slightly different tread to the rear one, and has a different code number... interestingly, you actually buy them as a pair... and in fact even the width isn't exactly the same.. the front is 130mm wide and the rear is 135mm, they just look the same.... and you're dead right, the front appears to rotate backwards if you look at the tread, it's certainly a subject that gets a lot of people hot and sweaty!
@@Moonfleet41 Half hammered lol. But tires today are so big it takes miles to heat them u[p. That is a probem
I need to find a used lathe now and practice.