Very simple tutorial no B.S use the right tools and the tire tips and rotor are plain and simple but 100 % true to keep you safe hope more people appreciate the time and effort this man did 👍
I like your voice and personality. I could listen to you all day showing us how to maintain our bikes. Some of those Harley model numbers can take a life-time to remember, but I'm starting to remember mine.
Watched your video and picked up a wheel bearing installation/puller kit for $52.00 got her done cheaper than what the shop would have charged me. Thanks for the upload, cheers
Thank you sir for your video. I replaced my front wheel bearings on my 2001 Road King and it was an easy job with the help of your clear and concise video.
Great video. Little bit of advice..... I always put my bearings in the freezer overnight. It helps a lot when it comes time to install it. Thank You!!!!
I've never thrown away a good tool(s), only the BAD Parts and Broken Tools, some of which have been spotted on their way to the Moon, the rest are at the bottom of the Ocean near the Equator.
Nice video, good explanation! Here is another trick to place the bearing. If you put the bearing the night before in the freezer you can slide it in by hand the next day..... ;-)
you only need about 20-30 min in the freezer..if you have a lot of frost build up.a sandwich bag works to keep the water away once you remove from freezer..but i do agree.many forget cold shrinks metal to a degree to make jobs easier
Watched this and did mine with the pitt posse bearing puller from Amazon. Thanks for the video. I saved a ton of money and I know it was done right. Very appreciated!
I have a hugger that lost the rear bearing. No squeak, squeal, or grinding. It just came apart! I took it to several machine shops that said "we don't work on any Harley stuff." I ended up with a air grinder and turrets! I used to work at a machine shop in CA when I was a kid, so you know how I hated to do that! Got her done though and put together again. Now even if I don't hear anything, I pull my wheels off every time I do a oil change to check.
Great video. Good personality and a good voice. Shows you how to caliper your rotors to check for minimum thickness (a saftey issue). Also looking for stress cracks, etc. A couple of comments if I may: 1. THEROMO-REDIMENSIONAL BEARING REMOVAL. The outer bearing surface and the inner bearing mounting boss (hole) is a heat transfer point to help carry excess heat buildup away from the bearing and into the hub of the wheel where it can be dissapaited to the air. If you use a grease there I would recommend a thermal transfer grease (that facilitates the transfer of heat) because regular grease is a good heat insulator. This is optimal stuff -- not really necessary though and not as effective as #2 (below). 2. THERMO-REDIMENSIONAL BEARING INSTALLATION. You maybe able to ease the removal of the old bearing by cooling the bearing and simultaneously heating the bearing boss (the hub) to create a dimensional gap -- the bearing may be simply picked out of the hold. A compressed air can be used to cool the bearing and a heat gun can be used to heat the hub. My hub is aluminum and aluminum has an incredible rate of thermal expansion when heated (no more than 350F or so). If you then clean the outer surface of the new bearing and the inner hub with acetone to degrease it then you can install the bearing in the reverse by freezing the new bearing in your refrigertor freezer (in a sealed zip lock baggie). You then just heat the hub and drop in the new bearing. If it requires some "tapping in" you can use a piece of 2x4" pine placing that across the leveled bearing and tapping the wood with a hammer. 3. PIRELLI NIGHT DRAGON. Pirelli makes a OEM sized tire for the VRod called the "Night Dragon" (they had the VRSCDX Night Rod Special in mind in the name). They make all the tire sizes for the VRods. The tire has some MotoGP technology in it in that it is a sticker tire in the tire zones where sticky is best and it is profiled to provide a larger tire to road contact patch in hard leans. I have been reading some road tests and reviews and the tire looks like a ticket to a safer ride. Note: Lots of folks seem to want to go to fatter tires because it looks cool -- don't go over a 240mm on the rear of the VRod (OEM size now). Fatter tires change the dynamics of the motorcycle and the physics call for harder leans to make the same turns on those fatter tires and as you know increased lean angle increases risk. This fatter tires increases your rolling weight (the weight that the motor has to turn repeatedly to make forward motion) and has a performance disadvange there. You want additional traction then go to the Pirelli Night Dragon (I am not affiliated or benefit in anyway by saying this). 4. BORON-NITRIDE BEARING REPLACMENT. While you are replacing bearings why not make an improvement to the performance of your motorcycle? After all -- the VRod is Harley's high-performance line. I don't know about you but I am always looking for small tweaks to give me a sharper edge. Here is one... boron-nitride is the hardest substance known to man (including diamonds). It is a form of ceramic that they are now making bearings out of. There are boron-nitride (ceramic) bearings on the market for the VRod that are direct OEM replacements (Lyndall may sell them... do a few Google searches). These bearings are longer lasting (less wear) and they lower the rolling resistance of any wheel that you use them on resulting in faster acceleration and better fuel economy. 5. LIFE-CRITICAL MACHINE. I have always believed motorcycles are life critial machines -- much like an F18 fighter jet and not at all like a "mobile living room" (aka "Cager", "Car"). Wheels and brakes are life-critical components on a motorcycle -- so short of saftey-wiring everything I would recommend folks use a temporary thread-locker (LocTite(tm) blue) on the pinch bolts, caliper mounting bolts, and the axel nut and torque these things to OEM specs. One of these critical fasteners failing at high speed could surely make a mockery of your "Live to Ride" motto (in a very ugly way). If you take short cuts or don't want to "go all out" and thread-lock and torque stuff then let a professional mechanic do this work for you and stick to oil changes and tune-ups. By the way... look for some videos showing the "Death Wobble" that can occur if you let your bearings go out on you or possibly do not get the bearing fully seated on the front wheel. 6. BALANCING. Lots of folks statically balance their wheels some say it isn't necessary at all. If you are pulling your wheel to change the tire make sure you have the manufacturer's "light spot" (marked by a dot on the tire) adjacent to the the tire stem (where you put air in the tire). That will allow you to bring the tire to balance with fewer weights. Also, if you look at your wheel and there are weights on one side only chances are it was statically balanced (if no weights it may not be balanced at all). If you change the tire then the wheel should be re-balanced. This starts with removing the old weights. There are plenty of automobile garages with the adapters enabling them to dynamically balancing your wheels to a very high degree of accuracy. For long duration high-speed motorcycling doing this may reduce the chance of ever developing a "death wobble" and it may also reduce or remove handlebar vibration and improve the overall stability of the motorcycle. I would recommend it for the front wheel. Note: Motorcycle wheels, when dynamically balanced, are balanced with brake rotors installed. Just my 3 cents worth. Great video... I like this guy... Good advice and knowledge in this video. Just wanted to add a few helpful tips for folks.
One additional comment. When you were tightening the nut on the shaft to spread the collet, you needed to insert an allen key into the opposite side of the shaft to prevent the it from spinning while you tightened that nut...otherwise you're just spinning the shaft. I bought a kit and watched some other vids which was how I discovered this. Still a great demo though!
this is a very good instructional video, and he is absolutely correct, the right tools make the job easier and does it right. Can I borrow your puller?
Thanks for the video. I am wondering if this is a Jims, or other USA Made tool, that you used, or a less expensive eBay "special"? Just curios, as I need to remove and install some bearings but, as it is very seldom, I don't care to spend over $200 on the primo tool especially since I'm not doing this repeatedly on a daily basis.
Nice video, well done my man ! There was a machinist in Michigan who made special HD Tools ,( just like Jims Tools) ,and sold them on internet . I bought the clutch hub puller for the Early Evo 's off him . It was American made high quality ,just not polished up baby smooth etc like the Jims Tools! Cost about half as much! He may make these bearing puller \ installers too! Guess you could just press the bearings in with a shop press but you need that collett yo pull the old bearings!
AWESOME VIDEO. GREAT INFO. I NOTICED THE WHEEL WEIGHTS, TRY THE BALANCING BEEDS. THE ROTORS ARE STAINLESS STEEL, AND CAN BE POLISHED TO LOOK LIKE CHROME. START WITH 200 GRIT SAND PAPER AND WORK YOUR WAY TO 1000 GRIT.
OK, good video but you said nothing about the dust seals! Did you install them or didn't your bike have them? Just wondering! I have dust seals on mine.
I just gave you like 1000. my bike is a 03 road king classic with 50k on it. i had to replace the front bearings 10k ago. my rears are fine but i have to replace the rotor so why not replace them. better then having the go on one of my 400mile rides. thanks for the video on how to properly do it.
I really enjoyed the video and just one thing I noticed...When you check the runout on the rotor....you used the wrong tool. the calipers catch the edge of the rotors and give a false reading. You need to use micrometers so that you measure the working surface not the edge. I hope this helps......Ed
Excellent video. Thanks a lot. Just one question.... What brand of tool is that you used to make this video? (perhaps the maker and part number or such) FYI... I've been working on a few bikes (6) in the last 3 years. I was wondering how to go about doing this. Your video answered a lot of questions. Thanks again.
Just went through a front wheel failure on my 2008 Ultra Classic.... YES! I talked to the bike all the way home... 33K and front AND rear went bad (my balls fell out... And you can laugh all you want....NOT FUNNY! LOL). GOt a little confused as to what side the spacer goes on in the front.. I'm pretty confident it's the side opposite the valve stem... Spacer between bearings threw me a little as it was (or appeared to be ) too long. Then I realized that I just had to set the bearings to just touch it and it wasn't important how DEEP they were (as long as they don't protrude from the hub.) Great video. Thank you!
On my 08 Ultra anniversary i have Abs so i only have the one spacer on right side and abs sensor on the left which no way to get em mixed up, but anyways whenever my tires need changed i change wheel bearings also. Better safe than sorry is the way i look at it.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Many 'how to' videos leave you with more questions than answers. Your attention to detail was certainly appreciated. Nice job sir and thank you!
Very simple tutorial no B.S use the right tools and the tire tips and rotor are plain and simple but 100 % true to keep you safe hope more people appreciate the time and effort this man did 👍
I like this guy. He gives a lot of info that guys may not know. Tire manufacturers dates rotor thickness.
I like your voice and personality. I could listen to you all day showing us how to maintain our bikes. Some of those Harley model numbers can take a life-time to remember, but I'm starting to remember mine.
Watched your video and picked up a wheel bearing installation/puller kit for $52.00 got her done cheaper than what the shop would have charged me.
Thanks for the upload, cheers
Thank you sir for your video. I replaced my front wheel bearings on my 2001 Road King and it was an easy job with the help of your clear and concise video.
Great video. Little bit of advice..... I always put my bearings in the freezer overnight. It helps a lot when it comes time to install it.
Thank You!!!!
@Charles H Geis IV shrinks the metal
Did that for all metal bearings when I worked in aviation. Kept them in the freezer.
At the 12:16 mark on the video is the point I usually throw the wrench into the pond across the street from my garage, where many tools now reside.
haha..luv it!!!!! me too, brother.
Jim Dee I hope to throw mine far to join your tool in that pond! Hahaha
LMFAO !!!!
I've never thrown away a good tool(s), only the BAD Parts and Broken Tools, some of which have been spotted on their way to the Moon, the rest are at the bottom of the Ocean near the Equator.
Good mechanics separate bad mechanics with patience . You have to like what you are doing and want the gratification from a good job done.
Nice video, good explanation! Here is another trick to place the bearing. If you put the bearing the night before in the freezer you can slide it in by hand the next day..... ;-)
you only need about 20-30 min in the freezer..if you have a lot of frost build up.a sandwich bag works to keep the water away once you remove from freezer..but i do agree.many forget cold shrinks metal to a degree to make jobs easier
I just bought an install tool set. Great video! Who needs instructions when we have you! Thank you.
Now this is one of the best video i have see on bearing removal. Thanks my friend. Now I need to find where to buy this tools.
Watched this and did mine with the pitt posse bearing puller from Amazon. Thanks for the video. I saved a ton of money and I know it was done right. Very appreciated!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. You saved me hours of time and probably hundreds of dollars at the dealer.
Thankyou for video,got right tool changed bearings just as you showed,cheers from Australia.
Helpful video. You didn't show it, but one should place some lubricant (oil) on the threads, nut and washer of the installation and removal tools.
I have a hugger that lost the rear bearing. No squeak, squeal, or grinding. It just came apart! I took it to several machine shops that said "we don't work on any Harley stuff." I ended up with a air grinder and turrets! I used to work at a machine shop in CA when I was a kid, so you know how I hated to do that! Got her done though and put together again. Now even if I don't hear anything, I pull my wheels off every time I do a oil change to check.
This video is as good as it gets !! Good job !!
Great video. Good personality and a good voice. Shows you how to caliper your rotors to check for minimum thickness (a saftey issue). Also looking for stress cracks, etc. A couple of comments if I may:
1. THEROMO-REDIMENSIONAL BEARING REMOVAL. The outer bearing surface and the inner bearing mounting boss (hole) is a heat transfer point to help carry excess heat buildup away from the bearing and into the hub of the wheel where it can be dissapaited to the air. If you use a grease there I would recommend a thermal transfer grease (that facilitates the transfer of heat) because regular grease is a good heat insulator. This is optimal stuff -- not really necessary though and not as effective as #2 (below).
2. THERMO-REDIMENSIONAL BEARING INSTALLATION. You maybe able to ease the removal of the old bearing by cooling the bearing and simultaneously heating the bearing boss (the hub) to create a dimensional gap -- the bearing may be simply picked out of the hold. A compressed air can be used to cool the bearing and a heat gun can be used to heat the hub. My hub is aluminum and aluminum has an incredible rate of thermal expansion when heated (no more than 350F or so). If you then clean the outer surface of the new bearing and the inner hub with acetone to degrease it then you can install the bearing in the reverse by freezing the new bearing in your refrigertor freezer (in a sealed zip lock baggie). You then just heat the hub and drop in the new bearing. If it requires some "tapping in" you can use a piece of 2x4" pine placing that across the leveled bearing and tapping the wood with a hammer.
3. PIRELLI NIGHT DRAGON. Pirelli makes a OEM sized tire for the VRod called the "Night Dragon" (they had the VRSCDX Night Rod Special in mind in the name). They make all the tire sizes for the VRods. The tire has some MotoGP technology in it in that it is a sticker tire in the tire zones where sticky is best and it is profiled to provide a larger tire to road contact patch in hard leans. I have been reading some road tests and reviews and the tire looks like a ticket to a safer ride. Note: Lots of folks seem to want to go to fatter tires because it looks cool -- don't go over a 240mm on the rear of the VRod (OEM size now). Fatter tires change the dynamics of the motorcycle and the physics call for harder leans to make the same turns on those fatter tires and as you know increased lean angle increases risk. This fatter tires increases your rolling weight (the weight that the motor has to turn repeatedly to make forward motion) and has a performance disadvange there. You want additional traction then go to the Pirelli Night Dragon (I am not affiliated or benefit in anyway by saying this).
4. BORON-NITRIDE BEARING REPLACMENT. While you are replacing bearings why not make an improvement to the performance of your motorcycle? After all -- the VRod is Harley's high-performance line. I don't know about you but I am always looking for small tweaks to give me a sharper edge. Here is one... boron-nitride is the hardest substance known to man (including diamonds). It is a form of ceramic that they are now making bearings out of. There are boron-nitride (ceramic) bearings on the market for the VRod that are direct OEM replacements (Lyndall may sell them... do a few Google searches). These bearings are longer lasting (less wear) and they lower the rolling resistance of any wheel that you use them on resulting in faster acceleration and better fuel economy.
5. LIFE-CRITICAL MACHINE. I have always believed motorcycles are life critial machines -- much like an F18 fighter jet and not at all like a "mobile living room" (aka "Cager", "Car"). Wheels and brakes are life-critical components on a motorcycle -- so short of saftey-wiring everything I would recommend folks use a temporary thread-locker (LocTite(tm) blue) on the pinch bolts, caliper mounting bolts, and the axel nut and torque these things to OEM specs. One of these critical fasteners failing at high speed could surely make a mockery of your "Live to Ride" motto (in a very ugly way). If you take short cuts or don't want to "go all out" and thread-lock and torque stuff then let a professional mechanic do this work for you and stick to oil changes and tune-ups. By the way... look for some videos showing the "Death Wobble" that can occur if you let your bearings go out on you or possibly do not get the bearing fully seated on the front wheel.
6. BALANCING. Lots of folks statically balance their wheels some say it isn't necessary at all. If you are pulling your wheel to change the tire make sure you have the manufacturer's "light spot" (marked by a dot on the tire) adjacent to the the tire stem (where you put air in the tire). That will allow you to bring the tire to balance with fewer weights. Also, if you look at your wheel and there are weights on one side only chances are it was statically balanced (if no weights it may not be balanced at all). If you change the tire then the wheel should be re-balanced. This starts with removing the old weights. There are plenty of automobile garages with the adapters enabling them to dynamically balancing your wheels to a very high degree of accuracy. For long duration high-speed motorcycling doing this may reduce the chance of ever developing a "death wobble" and it may also reduce or remove handlebar vibration and improve the overall stability of the motorcycle. I would recommend it for the front wheel. Note: Motorcycle wheels, when dynamically balanced, are balanced with brake rotors installed.
Just my 3 cents worth. Great video... I like this guy... Good advice and knowledge in this video. Just wanted to add a few helpful tips for folks.
Ur video helped me win a competition
Great video, very helpful. Thanks!
Would this be the same process with a damaged bearing??
Do you have the part number for this bearing removal tool? It would be greatly appreciated, thx
One additional comment. When you were tightening the nut on the shaft to spread the collet, you needed to insert an allen key into the opposite side of the shaft to prevent the it from spinning while you tightened that nut...otherwise you're just spinning the shaft. I bought a kit and watched some other vids which was how I discovered this. Still a great demo though!
I didn’t see the tube spacer go in between the bearings?
this is a very good instructional video, and he is absolutely correct, the right tools make the job easier and does it right. Can I borrow your puller?
Thanks for the time to do the video. Very well done..Konwledge is King. Thank you again
What about the roadside brother How do you get that bearing out?
Good video. I have to replace the front bearings on my 99 Road King, now I know exactly how to do it. Thanks for posting the video.
How does the removal tool get behind the bearing if the spacer butts up to the bearing?
Ringo Gingo look at the collet he showed. It expands as it tightens to the diameter of the bearing.
I would like know more about tool for pulling bearing out.
Sealed bearings so no need to pack them. Recommend Anti-seize as a lube instead of grease for the install tho.
Where do you get the removal an install tools, how much? Raydar
I have been running the Michelin Commander two tire. Love em. Great milage with them
I bought commander 3 this year, putting them on tomorrow, hopefully they will be as good or better
Very informative tutorial. Thanks for taking the time & effort putting this together.
Will help me replace my Electra Glide front wheel bearings.
Thanks for the video. I am wondering if this is a Jims, or other USA Made tool, that you used, or a less expensive eBay "special"? Just curios, as I need to remove and install some bearings but, as it is very seldom, I don't care to spend over $200 on the primo tool especially since I'm not doing this repeatedly on a daily basis.
Nice video, well done my man ! There was a machinist in Michigan who made special HD Tools ,( just like Jims Tools) ,and sold them on internet . I bought the clutch hub puller for the Early Evo 's off him . It was American made high quality ,just not polished up baby smooth etc like the Jims Tools! Cost about half as much! He may make these bearing puller \ installers too! Guess you could just press the bearings in with a shop press but you need that collett yo pull the old bearings!
Brilliant video taken the time to really explain everything step by step.
Thanks for the video man. It's going to help me alot
Excellent video, great job man!!
AWESOME VIDEO. GREAT INFO. I NOTICED THE WHEEL WEIGHTS, TRY THE BALANCING BEEDS. THE ROTORS ARE STAINLESS STEEL, AND CAN BE POLISHED TO LOOK LIKE CHROME. START WITH 200 GRIT SAND PAPER AND WORK YOUR WAY TO 1000 GRIT.
Does this dude have other videos?
Great job on the video. Clearly explained and good footage plus "extra" info that I can use. Two thumbs up.
OK, good video but you said nothing about the dust seals! Did you install them or didn't your bike have them? Just wondering! I have dust seals on mine.
Good video. Helped me quite a bit.
What bearing tool are you using? Where did you get it? Also what bearings are you using, are they the stock HD bearings?
I just gave you like 1000. my bike is a 03 road king classic with 50k on it. i had to replace the front bearings 10k ago. my rears are fine but i have to replace the rotor so why not replace them. better then having the go on one of my 400mile rides. thanks for the video on how to properly do it.
Anyone know a good brand for these tools and where to get them?
Thanks for the time for doing this very helpful
Decent video, but make sure you check for endplay correctly and adjust your bearings if needed.
I really enjoyed the video and just one thing I noticed...When you check the runout on the rotor....you used the wrong tool. the calipers catch the edge of the rotors and give a false reading. You need to use micrometers so that you measure the working surface not the edge. I hope this helps......Ed
I agree with the micrometer... otherwise, the video was useful!
I agree use a micrometer
Thanks for the video I just bought the tool now I know how to use it. ride safe have a good one.
Did u rent them tools
Thank you my friend, for your great video now I know how to do my front wheel bearings properly.
what brand of bearing did you use? i have a 2016 ultra limited
Good work brother.
Thank you!!!
Great video!!!!
from Brazil!
I just wish I had learned what to look for in wheel bearing failure before it happened :) Of course I also wasnt expecting it at 40k
No joke, that made for an interesting ride home
Very informative and helpful video. Thank you!
Outstanding video! Thank you. Subscribed
Excellent video. Thanks a lot. Just one question.... What brand of tool is that you used to make this video? (perhaps the maker and part number or such) FYI... I've been working on a few bikes (6) in the last 3 years. I was wondering how to go about doing this. Your video answered a lot of questions. Thanks again.
Well done. I could watch any video you make.
Awsome video brother is that the OTC 4790 bearing tool?
good video, thanks mate, helpful comments too. thanks all.
Just went through a front wheel failure on my 2008 Ultra Classic.... YES! I talked to the bike all the way home... 33K and front AND rear went bad (my balls fell out... And you can laugh all you want....NOT FUNNY! LOL). GOt a little confused as to what side the spacer goes on in the front.. I'm pretty confident it's the side opposite the valve stem... Spacer between bearings threw me a little as it was (or appeared to be ) too long. Then I realized that I just had to set the bearings to just touch it and it wasn't important how DEEP they were (as long as they don't protrude from the hub.) Great video. Thank you!
On my 08 Ultra anniversary i have Abs so i only have the one spacer on right side and abs sensor on the left which no way to get em mixed up, but anyways whenever my tires need changed i change wheel bearings also. Better safe than sorry is the way i look at it.
where did you get that tool, good sir?
Put the bearing in the freezer and it’ll slide on easier, you could also heat up the wheel a little bit and that would help.
Great video, you really need to do more for your bike. Was really really helpful.
great video. Im about to do this to my 03 ultra. Thanks
Great video. Very helpful. Please do more!!!
where do I get the wheel bearings for the bikes with abs
+SouthCakhotsauce
Only bikes that are in really good shape have 'abs'.
Just what I needed.
Great video - thank you.
Thanks that was helpful info, keep up the good work .
Perfect....thank you sir
Great video! Lots of information,thank you.
Nice video, very informative. Thanks for doing this.
Where did you get that bearing removal tool?
www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Davidson-Bearing-Installer/dp/B005SUX9MI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478276426&sr=8-1&keywords=boss+powersports+outlet+VT102
Perfect! Thanks man! 👍👍
Great video. Thanks bud.
Subscribed and watching thanks ride on ride smooth ride smart
Put the bearing a couple hours in a freezer to shrink it , then install much more easy.
Great job on the video! Thanks for your efforts :)
That was cool i got everything i wanted to know from this video! Thanks for poting it
well done dude saved me a quid or two ;-)
Nine percent of the people that rated this aren’t mechanically inclined.
Great Video!
Hunter S.Thompson bearing replacement!!
great video but I was always told not to put grease on the outside of the race. Maybe anti-seeze is a better choice.
You are correct...
NEGATIVE...Anti-sieze has metal in it.. not good... However, anti-sieze is recommended in the axle
Good video. Thank you.
Sealed bearings so the dust seals are part of the bearing
Well informed do it the right way video. Keep the rubber side down.
Gotta say that is a much easier job with the right tools
heard a great saying for doing it right! ;-I'M TOO LAZY TO DO IT TWICE!"
Great job. a vice would be handy, eh?
thank you good video best of irish
01 glide rear, the sure didn't come out that easy. Lol original with 54,000. Lol. But good video bro.
it's very easy thanks
I did not see you pack the bearing. My experience is they come almost dry and need to be packed.
It's packed internally at the factory. It's a closed bearing.
Thanks for sharing!
Bearing is cocked