*Regarding the comments about the lugs have tapers on them so the wheel will be centered regardless of hub centric or not:* Yes although the lugs do have tapers to center the wheel and or spacer on the hub, there is a much higher chance of it not being centered when not running a hub centric setup and this is where most the issues of spacers come from. Which is why I suggested to only get hub centric. *For instance:* A lot of people bolt on their wheel and hand tighten their lugs to maybe 15 ft/lbs of torque. Then they lower their car on the ground and torque it to spec. If the wheel doesn't have a hub diameter properly matched with the hub diameter on the car then there is a possibility that when lowering the car on the ground and the full weight of the car is applied to the wheel, that the wheel will move off center since the lugs are not fully torqued and are not holding the wheel 100% in place. Then when you go to torque the lugs, you will torque the wheels off center. Make sense? So by having it hub centric it eliminates that room for error. And considering the negligible price difference between hub centric spacers and non hub centric it's best to go with a hub centric setup Thanks :)
OffBeat Garage yes and people also tend to ignore the correct two stage tightening process and some of them even tighten the nuts/bolts in a circular manner instead of going 1324 or 142635.
Need more vids like this so noobs can learn and not be noobs anymore. For future vids maybe talk about tire sizes and grip ratings, brake swaps for 240's, suspension tuning for drift,drag, or road racing..... blah blah blah
If you tighten in a star pattern gradually you eliminate the need for hubcentric rings. The star patter applies even pressure and will gradually center the wheel
*Brief Table of Contents* •Reasons people run spacers - 00:30 •Different types of spacers - 03:54 •What to look out for when buying spacers - 10:20 •Addressing arguments against spacers - 12:07
thanks for putting this video together. it really helps illustrate how wheel spacers are intended to be used and what buyers should be looking for when shopping for spacers.
This video should be referenced in every single car forum.. I'm so sick of answering dumb questions that seem like common sense. great video bro.. keep em comin.
That ending: "I won't let them hurt you ever again" Very comprehensive video. Thanks alot. They get a bad rep, because people just want to stance their car with it, and like you explained could be dangerous when not thinking it through.
When I installed my 16x8 TE37s on my e30 I run a 5mm, non-hub centric, spacer but it does have the same center bore as my hub. Enough of the hub sticks out past the spacer where I can use my hub centric rings to center my wheels. I did lots of research before purchasing anything. Thanks for this video, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another thing to note is to make sure the wheels you are running have reliefs cut in the back of the mounting surface for the studs that stick out from bolt on spacers
As a mechanical Engineer, I appreciate that you shared such great information. Good on you for actually doing research and making sure you understood it rather than taking an internet mechanics word. Also was really happy when you mentioned how the clamping friction is how the load is transferred, this let me know that you really did research and found good sources, as this is how I learned it in class and it makes sense. You are quite intelligent (have watched since the first drift car was bought), and you have always made that obvious with how you choose to approach things.
blindassassin111 the funny thing is clamping friction is the same argument used for why you can get away with not being hubcentric. Glad he recommended remaining hubcentric anyway.
But clamping friction doesn't center wheels so that is a bad argument. Being hubcentric accounts for centering and clamping friction accounts for load, both are needed. On the wheel centers I designed for a small race car, the wheel is hubcentric and doesn't use tapered lugs to aid the centering, but being hubcentric is a necessity for safe mounting.
blindassassin111 I agree with you. Just noting people use that as an argument for hub centric not being necessary....particularly with tapered lug nuts. Those people, the vast majority of cases, are wrong. There are exceptions. But whatever. No reason not to be hubcentric, other than a few specific type wheel exceptions.
I've had zero balance issues running my lug centric hub spacers on both of my trucks. One truck uses spacers between the dually wheels to prevent tire rub, and my other truck a 2wd, using them to space the rear tires out to fill the wider rear fenders for running staggered size tires. They are tapered the same way lug holes are in most wheels, therefore when torqued properly, they are centered perfectly and have no vibration at any speed..no hub centric rings required. The method I use which is tried and true for decades (and a TSB for some past makes and models of vehicles) is tightening two opposing lugnuts to a low torque, which centers the wheel on the lug studs. Then add the rest of your lug nuts, and torque them to the same setting. Then perform final torque in the proper torque sequence and torque value per your vehicle's manufacturer recommendations. Even if you don't run spacers, this is still a proper method of torquing any wheel, as by starting two opposing lug nuts at a lower torque at first will always bring a non hubcentic wheel into alignment before applying final torque. After 20+ years, and 100's of thousands of miles between all my vehicles at high speeds and high load capacities, I've had nothing but 100% safe and reliable results. Just my .02 and experience as both a military vehicle and aircraft mechanic. Your results may vary.
Thank you so much for encouraging people to do shit properly! So many hacks out there don't consider safety when modifying their car. Like the whole excessive camber thing: you could kill someone driving that shit on the road.
great video man. one thing thing that is uncommon is for example there is no protruding hub on the rear of a nissan 280zx. but just have to be paying attention when putting wheels and spacers on.
I run 20mm spacers on the front of my e36 to clear the control arm for my angle kit at 68 degrees of lock. Never had any problem with them and I've been running them for 2 years in proam. As long as you don't cheap out, you shouldn't have any issues.
you can gently tighten two opposing lug nuts to "center" the wheels to an extent when using non hub centric spacers. been doing it for years across multiple chassis' with no issue
The studs are what take all the torque of the drivetrain, so what you said isn't true.The hubcentric rings look pretty pointless imo. If you install your wheel using a star pattern when tightening the lugs you'll have no issue just like what PlymParkOG said, and it's honestly the first thing any mechanic or anyone with general automotive knowledge should know.
Oplet also not true. the friction between the hub surface and inside wheel surface is transferring that load. All the studs are designed to do is hold the two together. Their strength is along their length, under tension.
magnetic0314 its a mix of both. however the centric rings still don't hold any load at all. and they still are pointless unless someone is just using regular hex nuts for their lugs.
I can't say more. I love how this is explained correctly. Okay... If you have excessive bearing wear, that means you're offsetting the bearing, causing damage due to the bearing load not on the load areas specified for the bearing(oblique force). Spacers are not really bad since they allow flexibility, but since they are bolted on, you can expect some losses because of that(a single piece is stronger than multiple parts held together). Changing the offset of your wheels not only affects load balancing and track width, but also can give you more headroom to fit wider tires that the stock offset cannot. If *possible*, always get your rims with the correct offset *before* choosing a wheel spacer if you cannot have the proper offset. And about unsprung weight, increased mass on the wheel due to the offset is basically the same exact thing as a spacer adding mass. The spacer will always have more mass due to the lugs.
Not all wheels are designed to be hub centric. The Aero/Bassett wheels I run on my hillclimb car are specifically lug-centric and they warn against even trying to balance on a normal wheel/tire balancer that is designed to work on hub-centric wheels. More of an outlier situation since most alloy wheels are designed to be hub-centric, but something to note. Keep up the good work on the vids!
I installed 1.5" spacer on my jeep to get the turning radius back. with a 3.3/4" lift, my 33x12.5 tires rubbed on the frame when turning to far in either direction. the spacers solved the rub and gave it the more aggressive stance I was looking for.
Nicely done; clear explanation and graphics!! Wish I knew of hub-centric 30 yrs ago; I mounted some non-stock wheels w. new tires on an E23 BMW. Wheels had same lug circle dia, but they shook - sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Had the tire shop re-balance 2x, but never fixed it. They never mentioned hub diameter... The car had tapered lug bolts; even if they 'should' center the wheel it wasn't good enough to be smooth at speed. I always torqued with 2-step or 3-step process. Another spacer benefit is similar to using centering rings. Wheel mfrs can make far fewer variants, which "should" make them less expensive and *might* make it easier to find a replacement for a damaged wheel.
Huge fan man I've been subbed since u were taking ur missile 240 (le drift car) to adams and u were on those 4 lug mesh wheels. I love it when you make these informative ass videos that just have shitloads of stuff to learn in them. Your probly the most knowledgable person about drift cars and jdm stuff that I know of man. Keep the up the good content 👍
I've got hubcentric spacers on mine because I couldn't get the rota's I wanted in the offset to suit my widebody. They were made to spec and have been great.
I got back wheels spacers on yesterday but my left side one makes a weird noise when I brake or left go of the brake. Is it normal since I just got them or something wasn’t installed right?
Two thumbs up for the extremely well explained video. Your explanations are even better than most resellers of these products can say. Edit: make one (if you didn't already do) about bolt pattern change. For example i am trying to go from a 4x108 hub to a 4x100 or 4x114.3
I am running non hub centric spacers on my 70 Chevelle and have had no problems so far. The lugs can only fit in the tapered holds on way, you would really have to try to make it off center.
wow you absolutely nailed it! 👌💯👍 the only suggestion I'd add is the installation process. poor installation can lead to failure (i.e. you should always re-torque after the initial 30km drive, and what material the spacers need to be like billet etc.)
Awesome job. The only thing you did not mention is proper lug nut tightening, and what could happen if you over torque the studs (like with impact guns)
Fantastic video man. I need to get spacers so I can run my winter wheels. I really appreciate you taking the time to talk through this and helping me understand.
Very through and professional explanation and while it did make me understand that spacers are not bad, I still think 90%+ of the people running them are only doing it for the looks and with offsets that are negatively affecting their car's handling.
Hey man, I pretty much just watched the whole Le Drift Car II build all over and I just realized, it seems as if you know exactly what to do at all times. Like you know which wires did what and where they went. How? Does your dad tell you or help out or have you done this before or do you look it up or what? And you just know so much. Anyways keep pumpin out the awesome content man, I know you work your butt off!
I got to fit my wheels soon hence the interest🤔... in the video, when he put the 25mm spacer on the car, the hub nuts where sticking out so how was he using 25mm on the rear.... I'm just getting my head round the wheels and spaycers🤓 I have a set of 20" for my car, and there going on it one way or another😁. my new wheels hit on my suspensions so I have to get spaycers, and cut the wings a bit😁 any advice! as to, how I go about getting the right size spaycer, would be a grate help, as I know I'm going to need big ones but don't want over size at all.. any help much appreciated 🖒
How does wheel offset effect the center of wheel spacing if you had the proper wheelspacing. Is it only cosmetics, or does scrub radius have that much of an effect on handling?
I really hate hub spacers but you made a good video to show the proper use of them as I have seen too many fail and hope these people will see this educational example of how to use them ! Good work :-)
even as shown in the diagram the middle wheel it given more leverage which in turn puts more pressure on the hub the physical point of where the wheel bolts to the car is being changed if F= vertical load on wheel then follow the the path that the energy (from a bump for example) takes from the ground up through to the suspension
I have a four door 1977 Cutlass Supreme with 22 inch rims and I'm having a slight problem with the two front tires rubbing in the inside what is the best spacers to take care of that problem
I'm looking to get spacers for my truck to give it a more aggressive look but I'm it sure. It has rear drums brakes and idk if I can run spacers on them and if I would need differently sized ones for the front disc brakes.
this is a great debunking video with loads of valid info. but regarding that DUALI example, when you use a ton of offset at the wheel and the balance it out with huge spacer, that puts the tire exactly under the bearing, arent you still putting more load on the bearing? this is hard for me to grasp and maybe I am wrong.
*I just want to make sure I understand this properly: Should I only get wheel adapters that come with a hub lip to ensure the wheel remains hub centric?* *And if I get thin wheel spacers (with the hub lip still extending through), how much hub lip is required to still ensure it's safe? Would 2mm be enough?*
Is it possible to run hub rings with the adapters, then hung rings with the rims? Seems like a pain to measure hub sizes in order to get the right size
I have a new Wheel, it's bore hole is measured 74mm and my SUV bore is measured 64.1, what will be the size of the ring i need? a bit confused coz there are so many in the market. Thanks
Good video little confused on the chart you had so I’m running a different set of tires and offset that you may normally see but I’m running 20x12 -44 offset rims on my truck along with 2” spacers? So your saying it would or wouldn’t start effecting the wheel hub bearing? Obviously not anywhere near factory offset
Where can I find massive spacers online? From what i've found, most people don't go bigger than around 45mm. Are they custom made? I need 60mm on each wheel. Might just stack 2 30mils on each side.
I've got a 87, R-20 Chevy Surburban 4x4 I got 33s tires on it now I got plenty clearance / I'm geting ready to install some 35s soon but I've notice that I'm going to have to buy a set of 4 wheel spacers because the 35s is not going to clear under the front without hitting the lower front of both front fenders plenty of room on the rear but a set of 4 will make it match
Was at a tire shop yesterday as I put new tires on. I ask would using spacers on my OEM rims on an AWD damage or malfunction My AWD was told it would. And not to use. is it true ?
Hey. i found a 240 on craigslist for a 1000 bucks. its a 1990. and he has a complete lm7 5.3 ls from a 2007 silverado. I have some questions if you could answer them. 1: Where are common areas to look for rust besides the side frame rails, and there are really weird welds on the strut towers. i could show you some photos. 2: how much torque can a stock ka diff hold, and is a j30 rear end completely bolt on. If you can give any insight it would be a great help.
teh vee teh vee Oh. hey there bud. im just asking. im going to look at a 240 tomorrow and i want to know what to look at besides fram rails and strut towers, which were tack welded on. im just not sure about other shit and forums dont help to much.
What would I need to do to my rear wheel drive car to give it a zero scrub radius if it has a 8mm positive scrub radius? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
What are them adaptors like when there bolted do they move? Because in the adaptor it’s like bowl shape and the nuts would sit snug to centre them wouldn’t they
Besides its unsprung weight, it also increases the wheel's moment of inertia, but since it is close the axis, it will only be a major factor if the spacer is massively heavy. And then it could be drill it out, to reduce both its, moment of inertia and its unsprung unsprung weight... BTW very well do review for a mechanic;s point of view on the subject...
very informational, guess i got some calculations ahead of me, gonna figure out what spacers i should run if any since my driftcar will be fitted with either 15 or 16 inch burners, or on a trackday with 17 inch semislicks in the rear, so i'll need to dig up some offset numbers.
Hello, I got new wheels that are the same as stock with all the same specs, but needed them to stick out more, so i added 25mm spacers. are they gonna mess out my wheel bearings? please let me know. Thank you an advance, s
Be careful when mounting wheels on smaller bolt on spacers. The stud can stick out far enough from the spacer and can make contact with the wheel and not sit flush on the hub.
I bought hubcentric bolt on spacers. Problem is, one of my hubs on the rear of the car has one broken stud. Mine has 5 studs on each hub. Will this be safe enough or should I get another stud installed for that?
If I were to be daily driving, never tracking a small bolt on, hub centric, good quality bolt on. How long do you think the ball bearings could last? The rims I got didn't have a bigger offset and I just want my wheels flush with my fenders. I really want spacers but I've been told not to do it.
So the biggest ones I hear are that it tends to wear out wheel bearings faster and puts much more strain on your coilover. You mentioned that one of the cars ran same bearings for 3 years. But was that a DD or track only car?
*Regarding the comments about the lugs have tapers on them so the wheel will be centered regardless of hub centric or not:*
Yes although the lugs do have tapers to center the wheel and or spacer on the hub, there is a much higher chance of it not being centered when not running a hub centric setup and this is where most the issues of spacers come from. Which is why I suggested to only get hub centric.
*For instance:*
A lot of people bolt on their wheel and hand tighten their lugs to maybe 15 ft/lbs of torque. Then they lower their car on the ground and torque it to spec. If the wheel doesn't have a hub diameter properly matched with the hub diameter on the car then there is a possibility that when lowering the car on the ground and the full weight of the car is applied to the wheel, that the wheel will move off center since the lugs are not fully torqued and are not holding the wheel 100% in place. Then when you go to torque the lugs, you will torque the wheels off center.
Make sense?
So by having it hub centric it eliminates that room for error. And considering the negligible price difference between hub centric spacers and non hub centric it's best to go with a hub centric setup
Thanks :)
Good video good info
OffBeat Garage s
Also depends on if your vehicle uses a hub centric or lug centric hub design. Most vehicles I have seen are hub centric, but some are lug centric!
OffBeat Garage yes and people also tend to ignore the correct two stage tightening process and some of them even tighten the nuts/bolts in a circular manner instead of going 1324 or 142635.
awesome video. more people need to see this.
Need more vids like this so noobs can learn and not be noobs anymore. For future vids maybe talk about tire sizes and grip ratings, brake swaps for 240's, suspension tuning for drift,drag, or road racing..... blah blah blah
AZMarineSniper Tire size and how to increase grip through tires/size and suspension!
AZMarineSniper
Be quiet, noob.
If you tighten in a star pattern gradually you eliminate the need for hubcentric rings. The star patter applies even pressure and will gradually center the wheel
*Brief Table of Contents*
•Reasons people run spacers - 00:30
•Different types of spacers - 03:54
•What to look out for when buying spacers - 10:20
•Addressing arguments against spacers - 12:07
thanks for putting this video together. it really helps illustrate how wheel spacers are intended to be used and what buyers should be looking for when shopping for spacers.
This video should be referenced in every single car forum.. I'm so sick of answering dumb questions that seem like common sense. great video bro.. keep em comin.
That ending: "I won't let them hurt you ever again"
Very comprehensive video. Thanks alot.
They get a bad rep, because people just want to stance their car with it, and like you explained could be dangerous when not thinking it through.
I legit didn't want this video to end. Very well informed, thanks for the lesson.
When I installed my 16x8 TE37s on my e30 I run a 5mm, non-hub centric, spacer but it does have the same center bore as my hub. Enough of the hub sticks out past the spacer where I can use my hub centric rings to center my wheels. I did lots of research before purchasing anything. Thanks for this video, I'm sure it'll help a lot of people 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Another thing to note is to make sure the wheels you are running have reliefs cut in the back of the mounting surface for the studs that stick out from bolt on spacers
Excellent video. Very informative. Also, is 1 studd really better than 2?
Nice explanation of topic with worthy arguments. Buddy you are real EDUCATOR and TECHNICAL Person. Keep rolling.
As a mechanical Engineer, I appreciate that you shared such great information. Good on you for actually doing research and making sure you understood it rather than taking an internet mechanics word. Also was really happy when you mentioned how the clamping friction is how the load is transferred, this let me know that you really did research and found good sources, as this is how I learned it in class and it makes sense.
You are quite intelligent (have watched since the first drift car was bought), and you have always made that obvious with how you choose to approach things.
blindassassin111 the funny thing is clamping friction is the same argument used for why you can get away with not being hubcentric. Glad he recommended remaining hubcentric anyway.
But clamping friction doesn't center wheels so that is a bad argument. Being hubcentric accounts for centering and clamping friction accounts for load, both are needed. On the wheel centers I designed for a small race car, the wheel is hubcentric and doesn't use tapered lugs to aid the centering, but being hubcentric is a necessity for safe mounting.
blindassassin111 I agree with you. Just noting people use that as an argument for hub centric not being necessary....particularly with tapered lug nuts. Those people, the vast majority of cases, are wrong. There are exceptions. But whatever. No reason not to be hubcentric, other than a few specific type wheel exceptions.
Hands down, this is the most informative spacer video I've ever seen. Also provides examples of people running them. Awesome.
omg finally someone who knows that spacers NEED to be HUBCENTRIC great video bro good info
Diogo DaCunha I run non hubcentric spacers on my winter tires. They're fine if you know how to mount them.
Simon G t
Don't need hubcentric spacers if your car or truck has a lugcentric wheel/hub design ;)
fuckcentric lug butts
Merling Stoss show me a oem car that's not hubcentric wheels.
I've had zero balance issues running my lug centric hub spacers on both of my trucks. One truck uses spacers between the dually wheels to prevent tire rub, and my other truck a 2wd, using them to space the rear tires out to fill the wider rear fenders for running staggered size tires. They are tapered the same way lug holes are in most wheels, therefore when torqued properly, they are centered perfectly and have no vibration at any speed..no hub centric rings required. The method I use which is tried and true for decades (and a TSB for some past makes and models of vehicles) is tightening two opposing lugnuts to a low torque, which centers the wheel on the lug studs. Then add the rest of your lug nuts, and torque them to the same setting. Then perform final torque in the proper torque sequence and torque value per your vehicle's manufacturer recommendations. Even if you don't run spacers, this is still a proper method of torquing any wheel, as by starting two opposing lug nuts at a lower torque at first will always bring a non hubcentic wheel into alignment before applying final torque. After 20+ years, and 100's of thousands of miles between all my vehicles at high speeds and high load capacities, I've had nothing but 100% safe and reliable results. Just my .02 and experience as both a military vehicle and aircraft mechanic. Your results may vary.
Another great video. Love the descriptions with examples. Well spoken and put together. Thank you. Looking forward to the next one.
You didn't mention that you can change your bolt pattern with a spacer, to something more cheaply available in you area :)
AN adapter as opposed to just spacer tho
Wow dude. this video was actually really good, I've just started to look for spacers and now I actually know what to look for. Thanks!
Thank you so much for encouraging people to do shit properly! So many hacks out there don't consider safety when modifying their car. Like the whole excessive camber thing: you could kill someone driving that shit on the road.
magnetic0314 doing things properly should be getting other wheels and not using spacers at all
Dude..! Thank you..! literally one of the best spacer info vids on UA-cam.
great video man. one thing thing that is uncommon is for example there is no protruding hub on the rear of a nissan 280zx. but just have to be paying attention when putting wheels and spacers on.
I run 20mm spacers on the front of my e36 to clear the control arm for my angle kit at 68 degrees of lock. Never had any problem with them and I've been running them for 2 years in proam. As long as you don't cheap out, you shouldn't have any issues.
Collindoesdrifting what brand are you using?
you can gently tighten two opposing lug nuts to "center" the wheels to an extent when using non hub centric spacers. been doing it for years across multiple chassis' with no issue
PlymParkOG you can, but you still have your studs taking the load instead of a nice solid big bit of steel.
given most hub rings are plastic i think it'll be good
The studs are what take all the torque of the drivetrain, so what you said isn't true.The hubcentric rings look pretty pointless imo. If you install your wheel using a star pattern when tightening the lugs you'll have no issue just like what PlymParkOG said, and it's honestly the first thing any mechanic or anyone with general automotive knowledge should know.
Oplet also not true. the friction between the hub surface and inside wheel surface is transferring that load. All the studs are designed to do is hold the two together. Their strength is along their length, under tension.
magnetic0314 its a mix of both. however the centric rings still don't hold any load at all. and they still are pointless unless someone is just using regular hex nuts for their lugs.
you definitly good at explaning stuff hands down, im about to buy 2km of spacers XD
I can't say more. I love how this is explained correctly.
Okay... If you have excessive bearing wear, that means you're offsetting the bearing, causing damage due to the bearing load not on the load areas specified for the bearing(oblique force).
Spacers are not really bad since they allow flexibility, but since they are bolted on, you can expect some losses because of that(a single piece is stronger than multiple parts held together).
Changing the offset of your wheels not only affects load balancing and track width, but also can give you more headroom to fit wider tires that the stock offset cannot.
If *possible*, always get your rims with the correct offset *before* choosing a wheel spacer if you cannot have the proper offset.
And about unsprung weight, increased mass on the wheel due to the offset is basically the same exact thing as a spacer adding mass. The spacer will always have more mass due to the lugs.
Not all wheels are designed to be hub centric. The Aero/Bassett wheels I run on my hillclimb car are specifically lug-centric and they warn against even trying to balance on a normal wheel/tire balancer that is designed to work on hub-centric wheels.
More of an outlier situation since most alloy wheels are designed to be hub-centric, but something to note.
Keep up the good work on the vids!
I installed 1.5" spacer on my jeep to get the turning radius back. with a 3.3/4" lift, my 33x12.5 tires rubbed on the frame when turning to far in either direction. the spacers solved the rub and gave it the more aggressive stance I was looking for.
+Nicholas James There ya go! :)
Nicely done; clear explanation and graphics!!
Wish I knew of hub-centric 30 yrs ago; I mounted some non-stock wheels w. new tires on an E23 BMW. Wheels had same lug circle dia, but they shook - sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Had the tire shop re-balance 2x, but never fixed it. They never mentioned hub diameter...
The car had tapered lug bolts; even if they 'should' center the wheel it wasn't good enough to be smooth at speed. I always torqued with 2-step or 3-step process.
Another spacer benefit is similar to using centering rings. Wheel mfrs can make far fewer variants, which "should" make them less expensive and *might* make it easier to find a replacement for a damaged wheel.
Huge fan man I've been subbed since u were taking ur missile 240 (le drift car) to adams and u were on those 4 lug mesh wheels. I love it when you make these informative ass videos that just have shitloads of stuff to learn in them. Your probly the most knowledgable person about drift cars and jdm stuff that I know of man. Keep the up the good content 👍
one of the best / informed videos ive seen.
Dropped a like.
I've got hubcentric spacers on mine because I couldn't get the rota's I wanted in the offset to suit my widebody. They were made to spec and have been great.
what brand spacers do u recommend thats good quality?
Pad height is another term used to explain weither a wheel is low, mid or high pad height. great video by the way.
I got back wheels spacers on yesterday but my left side one makes a weird noise when I brake or left go of the brake. Is it normal since I just got them or something wasn’t installed right?
Wish I could find those work rezax's in 22s or at least 21" for my charger
Two thumbs up for the extremely well explained video. Your explanations are even better than most resellers of these products can say.
Edit: make one (if you didn't already do) about bolt pattern change. For example i am trying to go from a 4x108 hub to a 4x100 or 4x114.3
I am running non hub centric spacers on my 70 Chevelle and have had no problems so far. The lugs can only fit in the tapered holds on way, you would really have to try to make it off center.
wow you absolutely nailed it! 👌💯👍 the only suggestion I'd add is the installation process. poor installation can lead to failure (i.e. you should always re-torque after the initial 30km drive, and what material the spacers need to be like billet etc.)
Awesome job. The only thing you did not mention is proper lug nut tightening, and what could happen if you over torque the studs (like with impact guns)
Fantastic video man. I need to get spacers so I can run my winter wheels. I really appreciate you taking the time to talk through this and helping me understand.
most informative channel! glad you took a break and came back
:)
Very through and professional explanation and while it did make me understand that spacers are not bad, I still think 90%+ of the people running them are only doing it for the looks and with offsets that are negatively affecting their car's handling.
Hey man, I pretty much just watched the whole Le Drift Car II build all over and I just realized, it seems as if you know exactly what to do at all times. Like you know which wires did what and where they went. How? Does your dad tell you or help out or have you done this before or do you look it up or what? And you just know so much. Anyways keep pumpin out the awesome content man, I know you work your butt off!
I just look everything up on UA-cam or Google and teach myself haha that's it. Thanks man!
Subscribed. Love your videos!
I got to fit my wheels soon hence the interest🤔... in the video, when he put the 25mm spacer on the car, the hub nuts where sticking out so how was he using 25mm on the rear.... I'm just getting my head round the wheels and spaycers🤓 I have a set of 20" for my car, and there going on it one way or another😁. my new wheels hit on my suspensions so I have to get spaycers, and cut the wings a bit😁 any advice! as to, how I go about getting the right size spaycer, would be a grate help, as I know I'm going to need big ones but don't want over size at all.. any help much appreciated 🖒
How does wheel offset effect the center of wheel spacing if you had the proper wheelspacing. Is it only cosmetics, or does scrub radius have that much of an effect on handling?
I really hate hub spacers but you made a good video to show the proper use of them as I have seen too many fail and hope these people will see this educational example of how to use them ! Good work :-)
So the problem is when we see people using spacings with stock wheels just to push them outwards right?
So Hub-Centric is 100% the way to go, or run a wheel with desired offset?
Can i add a 5mm-15mm slip on spacer on top of an existing 50mm-60mm spacer? I'm trying to achieve a -10 offset. Thank you
He is literally one of the most intelligent car enthusiasts I have ever seen.
I legit just ordered spacers right before this video went up that's bananas
even as shown in the diagram the middle wheel it given more leverage which in turn puts more pressure on the hub the physical point of where the wheel bolts to the car is being changed if F= vertical load on wheel then follow the the path that the energy (from a bump for example) takes from the ground up through to the suspension
Thats exactly what the video diagram illustrates.
I have a four door 1977 Cutlass Supreme with 22 inch rims and I'm having a slight problem with the two front tires rubbing in the inside what is the best spacers to take care of that problem
I'm looking to get spacers for my truck to give it a more aggressive look but I'm it sure. It has rear drums brakes and idk if I can run spacers on them and if I would need differently sized ones for the front disc brakes.
Question, do they make these where it would help if the wheel hub is smaller than the cars hub? A kind of adapter...
this is a great debunking video with loads of valid info. but regarding that DUALI example, when you use a ton of offset at the wheel and the balance it out with huge spacer, that puts the tire exactly under the bearing, arent you still putting more load on the bearing? this is hard for me to grasp and maybe I am wrong.
*I just want to make sure I understand this properly: Should I only get wheel adapters that come with a hub lip to ensure the wheel remains hub centric?*
*And if I get thin wheel spacers (with the hub lip still extending through), how much hub lip is required to still ensure it's safe? Would 2mm be enough?*
The 'built-in' spacer you showed on for example the Riken's, that's called the "backspacing" of the wheels.
4.25" is around 108mm, I know because my car has a 4x108 pattern and in steelies from summit are advertised in 4x4.25 also
also 114.3mm (common Japanese stud pattern) is 4.5 inches
Thought about 25mm spacers for a 350Z, just to bring the wheels out more flush to the bodywork, make sense?
Is it possible to run hub rings with the adapters, then hung rings with the rims? Seems like a pain to measure hub sizes in order to get the right size
so where is it best to buy any spacers and is the BORA SPACER the best to buy and where are they available in canada ??????
Been here for a hot minute keep it up! Can't wait to see the drift vids this season!
Appreciate that table of contents man, I be wishing most videos have it, thanks man
I have a new Wheel, it's bore hole is measured 74mm and my SUV bore is measured 64.1, what will be the size of the ring i need? a bit confused coz there are so many in the market. Thanks
Now if I was running it on a off-road vehicle that is for throwing mud and I just want to throw more mud should it be fine
Good video little confused on the chart you had so I’m running a different set of tires and offset that you may normally see but I’m running 20x12 -44 offset rims on my truck along with 2” spacers? So your saying it would or wouldn’t start effecting the wheel hub bearing? Obviously not anywhere near factory offset
Where can I find massive spacers online? From what i've found, most people don't go bigger than around 45mm. Are they custom made? I need 60mm on each wheel. Might just stack 2 30mils on each side.
I've got a 87, R-20 Chevy Surburban 4x4 I got 33s tires on it now I got plenty clearance / I'm geting ready to install some 35s soon but I've notice that I'm going to have to buy a set of 4 wheel spacers because the 35s is not going to clear under the front without hitting the lower front of both front fenders plenty of room on the rear but a set of 4 will make it match
I do agree hug centric rings are important, But most lug nuts run a tapered edge that also helps center the bore. Great points though!
What would you recommend for a 2015 Hyundai Genesis coupe
Was at a tire shop yesterday as I put new tires on. I ask would using spacers on my OEM rims on an AWD damage or malfunction My AWD was told it would. And not to use. is it true ?
Hey. i found a 240 on craigslist for a 1000 bucks. its a 1990. and he has a complete lm7 5.3 ls from a 2007 silverado. I have some questions if you could answer them. 1: Where are common areas to look for rust besides the side frame rails, and there are really weird welds on the strut towers. i could show you some photos. 2: how much torque can a stock ka diff hold, and is a j30 rear end completely bolt on. If you can give any insight it would be a great help.
all over strut towers. Floor pans. Rear quarters. Hope this helps
Tim sheahan is it possible that the strut towers were replaced and tack welded back on?
why dont you fuckign find out for yourself using google you fucking kid
teh vee teh vee Oh. hey there bud. im just asking. im going to look at a 240 tomorrow and i want to know what to look at besides fram rails and strut towers, which were tack welded on. im just not sure about other shit and forums dont help to much.
where the spare tire is
best spacer vid i seen so far. im watching a shitload b4 i put em on my 05 titan and this is by far best vids presented very well , thanks
So if i understood you right, thry dont ruin the hub? Im thinking of getting 50mm spacers for my sc300
low offsets hurt the hub.
Holy crap this video was detailed asf. I was lost at first but once I got to the end I really understood it.
I want to go from six lug Chevy pickup to five lug Ford pickup what's best thig for me do and will it stick out to far
best detailed explanation on youtube. keep it up. I have a c33 with a s13 sub frame. I'm doing the suspension works first.
What if the hub centric bolt on spacer doesn't completely cover the stock studs ?
What would I need to do to my rear wheel drive car to give it a zero scrub radius if it has a 8mm positive scrub radius? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
You got me subscribed with this one video brother ! I love that calmness.
What are them adaptors like when there bolted do they move?
Because in the adaptor it’s like bowl shape and the nuts would sit snug to centre them wouldn’t they
Great vid. My question is wouldn't spacer add rotational mass and slow your car down?
Besides its unsprung weight, it also increases the wheel's moment of inertia, but since it is close the axis, it will only be a major factor if the spacer is massively heavy. And then it could be drill it out, to reduce both its, moment of inertia and its unsprung unsprung weight...
BTW very well do review for a mechanic;s point of view on the subject...
Well spoken, smart, detailed. Thanks for answering so many questions.
What if I have a wheel bore of 64.1 and looking to mount wheels with a hub bore of 56.1?
very informational, guess i got some calculations ahead of me, gonna figure out what spacers i should run if any since my driftcar will be fitted with either 15 or 16 inch burners, or on a trackday with 17 inch semislicks in the rear, so i'll need to dig up some offset numbers.
Does lowering your car on coilovers decrease your offset by 8mm per 1"?
but how do you know the original offset of your car so you know if you'll need spacers or not?
this gave me the confidence to purchase 25mm eibach pro spacers all around for my new '22 ecoboost
Hello,
I got new wheels that are the same as stock with all the same specs, but needed them to stick out more, so i added 25mm spacers. are they gonna mess out my wheel bearings?
please let me know.
Thank you an advance,
s
Be careful when mounting wheels on smaller bolt on spacers. The stud can stick out far enough from the spacer and can make contact with the wheel and not sit flush on the hub.
True
Daniel Alaniz happened to me. had to reorder 35mm spacers. not 25mm.
Yup happened to me and started to drive off then looked in my rear view mirror and my wheel was wobbly scariest moment ever
then you cut the studs????
rocket science
I bought hubcentric bolt on spacers. Problem is, one of my hubs on the rear of the car has one broken stud. Mine has 5 studs on each hub. Will this be safe enough or should I get another stud installed for that?
The best explanation I have come across on you tube
If I were to be daily driving, never tracking a small bolt on, hub centric, good quality bolt on. How long do you think the ball bearings could last? The rims I got didn't have a bigger offset and I just want my wheels flush with my fenders. I really want spacers but I've been told not to do it.
You forgot that some people run spacers to change bolt patterns because new hubs with different patterns could be hard to find for some cars.
So the biggest ones I hear are that it tends to wear out wheel bearings faster and puts much more strain on your coilover. You mentioned that one of the cars ran same bearings for 3 years. But was that a DD or track only car?
Track car
What about wheel bearing life? I've heard of them failing faster from spacers. Great video!