Raise the transfers to 118~122 primary and secondaries, swap the nozzle in the 620 carb. Should make a very agressive saw. While raising the secondaries be careful not to go too deep, up around 120 the top gets thin, if you get agressive trying to flatten the roof. If you need/want I have extra 590 cylinder. Good luck, and keep up the good work.
Wow I just watched your echo video again..thats some amazing work joe..very cool to see you giving a brother some tips from your experience with them..outstanding!!
@@chapsmaketory3960 I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I am all for trying to help someone trying to find more power from a saw. If I can help someone save a cylinder I will try my best.
While watching videos is cool, you will never learn how to modify a saw for increased performance without getting your hands greasy! That’s 1/2 the fun ! 😜
Your theory makes total sense, in a nut shell if it is the upper transfers you can't bleed off all the pressure causing a pressure build up in the case/transfers and bleeds back into the intake. Your explainations and illustrations on this stuff is the best I think. Great work 👍 nice hewing hatchet!
Thanks, hearing your thought process with problem solving helps me understand the "big picture" on how 2 strokes work. Even though I've never ported, or even tore one down.... yet 😉
Good on you! That explanation is perfectly logical ! I used to tinker with two strokes in late 70,s not for speed but for torque and reliability as we were riding in the wilderness of north western Canada .
Great video, really appreciate your expertise and perspective. About 8/9 months ago I purchased a 590, after seeing your vid 590 v.562xp Husky. Typically don't cut much wood a year, so didn't want to spend big cash, but also didn't want a saw I was going to struggle with every time I wanted to use it... since then we have had 2 bad storms, not typical for me, and ended up running the crap out of it with 6 downed oaks and some busted up white pine along with sevrral trees for neighbors. I couldn't be happier! Probably a mix of Echo being solid and having went to it from a PP $145 saw :-) either way, very satisfied with the 590. Thanks for all the work you put into these videos!
Thanks for the advice on putting in bearings I used it on my Polaris ranger. I put a new front wheel bearing in freezing the bearing then heated the hub. It worked perfectly thank you.
I am in the same boat, I started with a ms270. Run my 272 husqvarna most of the time. Big wood 394 the kids get the small saw. Thanks for sharing always enjoy.
After watching all these video’s I finally figured out how to start the 590. LOL I love it now for the class it’s in. 2 to 3 pulls now and it starts. No flooding. Thank you
If you’re right, I will grind the jbweld on the intake of my cs-490 and do transfert work because it had the same problem before the jbweld. I don’t care a lot about durability, but I have big fun running this saw. Thank you tinman, great channel!
Thanks for giving us an update! The way you explained it, makes perfect sense👍 glad I resisted the urge for the time being to grind on my 590 when removing the base gasket. Had the tools ready and told myself, you better not, Tinman's not happy with Caleb's saw at the moment. I know you'll get it. Excited to see how, when that time comes!!
Tinman, my first saw and mod, CS 490, pulled 13 500 wide open with the limiter caps removed. I tuned it down to 12 500 because I'm happy with the performance for what she is. Man, it is a torque monster. she cuts slower than a stihl but the torque is great for a couple hundred bucks.
You're right on the money It's so much clearer now Make it easy to understand those principles for porting saw's Im beginning in this world of 2 stroke mod's and i like your way of explaining how it works Thanks for sharing all that information.
Thanks for this, Tinman! I have a brand new Timberwolf with 20in bar and am asking what I should do to it. I'm interested in the 620 carb and coil, but wondering if you recommend I do anything beyond that. I mostly only cut birch and black & white spruce in winter in Interior Alaska, so usually near 0F or colder. I'd like to be able to run my saw in the 30s below. What modifications to the saw do you recommend I do to get the best performance out of it? Also, should I thin bar oil with diesel/kerosene or get a winter oil like Stihl's? I've read the Oregon all season oil is very thin and wondering if that would work. Also could adjust the oiler, since I'll usually be running thin oil. I've run saws a fair bit, but tweaking them like this is new... but I love perfecting things, so I'm open to having some fun with it. Love your videos. Thanks!
As with any custom work there will always be hiccups. For me the 590 in its stock form cuts everything I need at a "decent pace". It's a saw for the everyday man, at a price that is acceptable. I like the idea of erking a bit more out of it with the carb and coil. Perhaps porting might be better suited for the 620 since it already comes with the coil, carb and a 2 ring piston, but then again like you said this is unexplored territory and the bigger saws will always be faster when built right.
Hi tinman I am Greg young my experience with 2 strokes is in 1990s I built race jet skis and milled heads decked cylinders and ported for several local shops . Lately I have been porting chainsaws. I ported a cs620p similar to yours I do duration no opening time . Exhaust 163 intake stock height wider slightly nothing to transfer openings except chamfering better. I also put pop up piston in sea level here I have 165 psi compression no base gasket. I dont cc unless I have removable head . Opened up lower transfers slightly . I know the more porting is done that slot more compression is needed dont know if this is difference or something else I is going on. A popup piston is cheap and might be worth a try. hope it helps . I like your videos I am just another guy in garage Greg
I have many larger saws, but I bought a EFCO CS52 at the pawn shop that looked brand new for $80, it now has a 24" cannon super bar and a narrow kerf chain, it's very impressive for 50cc, many times the same saws are hot rods for the factory making over 4hp, so bigger saws with that much piss and vinegar would be making an easy ten hp.
Tinmaaaaan 🙄, totally followed everything you said brother. If the entire charge can't escape through the upper transfers then it can't be lit.. On the downstroke that unspent charge will escape through the muffler as the fresh change is being pulled into the case. The process needs that change to be Forced through the transfers. If the spark is hot then there shouldn't be a problem burning what's being compressed. I know I'm babbling Tinman but I think we are pretty much on the same page.. BTW, I'm a diehard 266 man, just ported another one and trying out a Molybean piston from Duke's. Quite a bit lighter than stock and seems like a very hard coating.. I'll pull it apart after cutting a few chords and see how the coating stands up. Once again we are all thankful for the time you put in to all the great videos. The new phone takes very crisp vids brother.. SLANT'E
I'll have to look at my air filter. Check for fuel. What would you recommend one do if they intend to keep it stock. Just need it to run reliably/consistently. Doesn't seem relevant to what your dealing with. Though I had a 590 that developed a leak around the decompression easy start plunger. Luckily it was still under warranty.
Thanks for info. I was thinking buying a used $200 cs-590. And think will pass to go for a used $350 cs-680. Those 680's are still made and used since the 90s , were the saw that made echo.
Curious to see what the fixes is for the 590. If it's true what you're saying too much into charge coming in, I wonder if opening up the intake port to slow the intake charge would help? Not changing the intake timing. Just increasing intake port volume size only. Thanks for sharing your notebook information.
Can anyone tell me if the numbers translate to 50cc saws? I have an ms260 and a brand new 550xp that need some lovin. Limbing in hardwoods... There is no stand up and buck in those messes. Falling and bucking are 462 and 2171. Firewood is 362. All woods ported. But my poor limbers are, unfortunately, stock.
@@buxtonworksawsllc9645 Thanks! I ordered two for my 590 and 600P projects. The 590 I'm making one change at a time, running it each time doing tree work to see the effects. Thanks again!
@@Engine4dragon Thanks for that! I have a 590 with the 620 coil and decompression delete. I have the 620 carb - it will be next. Good to hear the nozzle helps.
I'm getting a CS590 tomorrow as part of a package deal. I don't need it to rip hard. Is does gutting the muffler help it any? Thanks for the in depth video.
Always learning. That's what it's all about. I love to learn myself. I've never been a know it all because know it alls already "know everything". I listen to the guy who says I don't everything. Those are the guys who usually know what they are talking about.
Hey tinman I'm as experienced in saws as you as I'm learning here to but I have had a echo cs-590 for 3 years All I did is remove the jet limiters and open the exhaust Everything else is stock and this saw will rip right alongside a 65 or 70 cc saw Pulling a 20 inch chain with a lot of authority
I hot rodded an echo cs400. It’s a light little 42cc power head with a custom 20 inch bar running a full chisel. I can bury the whole bar into hard oak and it doesn’t even slow down and it just throws chips. It’s 42cc’s out cuts every other saw I’ve ever seen under 60cc’s. I love roosting chips in my friends faces that are running much bigger and more expensive saws. To top it off, it can sit for months and I can go start it within 3 pulls, even on a 20* day.
So, I am a bumper jack when it comes to some things. I am a 61 ½ y o Stone mason. I used every kind of combustible tool I ever had close enough to put my hands on. I like the Tinman. I am in NH so when you start with this is so and so MM and so mm. I have to say I am not writing this down. What would happen when you change the rings before you carve up the replacement cylinder. Is this blow Down blow by?
I have a CS-590 myself. I love it when it runs. I cant get the low jet adjusted correctly, it dies on idle but runs on full throttle at start up. This saw has always defeated me. I have adjust and rebuilt plenty of carbs on other saws but this one always leaves me scratching my head. Love the channel and love what you do with these saws. I have 12 acres in NH with mostly hard wood trees so I definitely fall in the farm ranch saw category lol.
See Buxton Work Saws llc comment about the Walbro part to change out. These carbs are made to run rich by having an extra nozzle in them so homeowners can't incorrectly run the saw lean and blow them up. You change the part to the new one without a hole in it and the carb becomes tunable like a standard saw. Worked great for me last winter on one i repaired for someone that wouldn't idle or run well.
Trying to cut up smaller logs with a big saw is just a pain in the ass. But I just cut firewood. I have small medium and large saws and use them accordingly. Kind of like hammers. One doesn't do everything well.
Ok something i learned about mine is the higher rpms out of the box come after the second tank of fuel when its hot. Its really wierd but you'll feel and hear it
could you skirt the problem (no pun intended) by fitting a piston with a longer skirt, shortening the intake timing? or a piston with a lower pin and raise the cylinder for the same effect? to me that could be a cheaper way of testing your theory/fixing the problem without potentially having to buy a new cylinder. i am loving the more in-depth look at theory. to me i see it as, the more knowledge the greater the chance of making the right decisions on what to change.
Tinman, I have a 620. I'm just a firewood guy. As a former owner operator of a 266, I've been super impressed with the 620. I TRY to find fault with it, but cannot! In my heart, I'm a husky man. But I don't like the new Huskies. Money wasn't a issue. The 620 is a simple straightforward saw like my old 266. Question is, you think the primary in he 620 is same as the 590?
Since talking abt different cylinder. What abt take one you have and JB weld the intake change timing . See if can save factory cylinder. I'd go with different cylinder like you said. But I've seen guys run cylinder with JB weld to change timming to get what they want. That or change flow pattern in both intakes and exhausts. When I get done with other projects have time get into saws. I'd like take a cylinder that classified as junk. And try welding the intake or exhaust and fix it that way. And see what happens. Of course be testing on my own stuff.
yes, maybe the upper transfers are too small, or maybe the lower bypass ports are soooo big, that you might consider stuffing the case. Thanks for the update. [ I added this: long bore=more fuel in the bottom end since the bypass ports were enlarged. Harvey might disagree, 'bigger is better' he might say, but you've lost transfer velocity, and as you mentioned , too much fuel.]
Please build a ECHO 4910/501p. Guys are building them all over UA-cam and reporting they respond very well to modification. It would be awesome to see your version of one built. Hello from Ontario.
Interesting Because I was thinking about getting the 590 but this Definitely has me rethinking now. However now I am very curious as well to know what's going on their
Ok, I don't know nothing from nothing about porting saws but a thought, if you are getting too much fuel why not try to restrict the fuel coming in, smaller fuel line, to see if it cleans up. Just a thought. Good stuff though Tinman and others comments. Mahalo...🤙.
The beard is wearing nicely if I do say so myself (I have a wife and daughter btw) there mr tinman, I'll compliment a nice beard right quick like lol, I feel like back in grade school in math class but fun and allready obsessed with subject , tinman say slowly, and the blow down...15 degrees blow down, BD. Hahaha I love it
@@countryfriedent I knew it had a bad coil when I first tested it out, I replaced it the coil and I got it to fire and run for 30ish seconds when it was bone dry but it hasn't started since then
Sometimes those farmertec cylinders have crazy long intake timing. You may have too much intake duration or the metering lever in the carb is too high.
Tinman, have you looked into the high jet issues with these saws - I have read the high jet has a bypass that keeps it from ever leaning out. See the comments below about that jet. Thanks for the videos.
Try a smaller carb. I put a tiny little carb from a hand held leaf blower on an 8hp Tecumseh that's runs a wood splitter and it runs awesome and it's held on with zip ties and wire.There's a video of a kid that owns a 76 ford Maverick car with a 302 motor and he made a throttle body that would fit on his car with a carburator from a " lawnmower".... Long story short he could rip the tires run all out and is getting 45'miles to the gallon. Even he said that it doesn't make sense and shouldn't work but it does. Sometimes man made machines work better when instead of going bigger go the opposite. A guy with a 2500 HP Vette was braking traction damn near all the way in a 1/4 mile pull . He turned the HP down and finally was hooking getting decent times.
To give you a different question, one that I am interested in right now, what is the best 18" bar brand to run on a saw for firewood cutting or tree work?
Emm... some of the logic is a little off. Increasing the crankcase volume (opening out lower ports) REDUCES the crankcase pressure... imagine doubling the crankcase volume, crankcase pressure up or down ? "Primary Compression Ratio" for 2 strokes, is what we are on about here, and that long intake will give a low primary compression. Seems to me you've analysed the rich mixture issue as part of intake timing being too long (entirely plausible) and then ignored it. How can changing the transfers fix that? Taking the exhaust off most likely just allowed the cylinder to empty out a bit more of the end gas - always good for the nest combustion cycle, thats not the same as pulling fuel back in from the exhaust.
Raise the transfers to 118~122 primary and secondaries, swap the nozzle in the 620 carb. Should make a very agressive saw. While raising the secondaries be careful not to go too deep, up around 120 the top gets thin, if you get agressive trying to flatten the roof. If you need/want I have extra 590 cylinder. Good luck, and keep up the good work.
Wow I just watched your echo video again..thats some amazing work joe..very cool to see you giving a brother some tips from your experience with them..outstanding!!
@@chapsmaketory3960
I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I am all for trying to help someone trying to find more power from a saw. If I can help someone save a cylinder I will try my best.
@@dynojoemods2764 Thank you for your generosity! It's very kind of you to share your professional, hard won, advice!
You can always lower the edge of the piston instead of porting the cylinder, it not going to run as fast as a ported saw but it will run better
What nozzles should I put in?
Your becoming my favorite saw porter. You explain things more then the others I watch.
While watching videos is cool, you will never learn how to modify a saw for increased performance without getting your hands greasy! That’s 1/2 the fun ! 😜
Your theory makes total sense, in a nut shell if it is the upper transfers you can't bleed off all the pressure causing a pressure build up in the case/transfers and bleeds back into the intake. Your explainations and illustrations on this stuff is the best I think. Great work 👍 nice hewing hatchet!
Tinman, your educational videos and closeups are amazing and the best to making your point that you are teaching us. Wealth of information.
Thanks, hearing your thought process with problem solving helps me understand the "big picture" on how 2 strokes work. Even though I've never ported, or even tore one down.... yet 😉
Good on you! That explanation is perfectly logical ! I used to tinker with two strokes in late 70,s not for speed but for torque and reliability as we were riding in the wilderness of north western Canada .
Great video, really appreciate your expertise and perspective.
About 8/9 months ago I purchased a 590, after seeing your vid 590 v.562xp Husky. Typically don't cut much wood a year, so didn't want to spend big cash, but also didn't want a saw I was going to struggle with every time I wanted to use it... since then we have had 2 bad storms, not typical for me, and ended up running the crap out of it with 6 downed oaks and some busted up white pine along with sevrral trees for neighbors. I couldn't be happier! Probably a mix of Echo being solid and having went to it from a PP $145 saw :-) either way, very satisfied with the 590.
Thanks for all the work you put into these videos!
Wow that was very informative especially when you involved the cut away engine. Great job TinMan
Excellent video, I enjoyed the demonstration and great explanation. Can't wait to see the final product
Thanks for the advice on putting in bearings I used it on my Polaris ranger. I put a new front wheel bearing in freezing the bearing then heated the hub. It worked perfectly thank you.
I am in the same boat, I started with a ms270. Run my 272 husqvarna most of the time. Big wood 394 the kids get the small saw.
Thanks for sharing always enjoy.
Awesome build. I wanted to get the Versa cut bar for my 590 but haven’t got around to it. Love your content 👍
Excellent video tinman !!! on unforseen issues and possible solutions
Woooooohoooooooo yeah Tinman more knowledge. Man I love this stuff. Thanks for the update on the 590. Love it. 🌲❤🌲✊🪓
After watching all these video’s I finally figured out how to start the 590. LOL I love it now for the class it’s in. 2 to 3 pulls now and it starts. No flooding. Thank you
If you’re right, I will grind the jbweld on the intake of my cs-490 and do transfert work because it had the same problem before the jbweld. I don’t care a lot about durability, but I have big fun running this saw. Thank you tinman, great channel!
Can we get an applause for uncle harve makin a public appearance and seems to be doin ok, love ol ironhorse too, my saw building gurus
Thanks for giving us an update! The way you explained it, makes perfect sense👍 glad I resisted the urge for the time being to grind on my 590 when removing the base gasket. Had the tools ready and told myself, you better not, Tinman's not happy with Caleb's saw at the moment. I know you'll get it. Excited to see how, when that time comes!!
I have been watching for the590 video. Thanks , now I will be watching for the wrap up vid.
Ur so smart I've learned so much buddy, this saw being a pain is nothing but learning more and more,
Can’t wait to see how you work the transfers.. You make sense so can’t wait for the next part of this saw.
Tinman,
my first saw and mod, CS 490, pulled 13 500 wide open with the limiter caps removed. I tuned it down to 12 500 because I'm happy with the performance for what she is. Man, it is a torque monster. she cuts slower than a stihl but the torque is great for a couple hundred bucks.
This is the best video you have ever posted in my opinion.. more of this please!
Thanks for the update, So want to see that saw scream. It can be done seen it many times with the 590/620’s.
You nailed it explaining how the echo saws are! I couldn’t agree more, they’re good but don’t have the jam like some other saws
You're right on the money
It's so much clearer now
Make it easy to understand those principles for porting saw's
Im beginning in this world of 2 stroke mod's and i like your way of explaining how it works
Thanks for sharing all that information.
Thanks for the vidja. I appreciate the knowledge.
Thanks for this, Tinman! I have a brand new Timberwolf with 20in bar and am asking what I should do to it. I'm interested in the 620 carb and coil, but wondering if you recommend I do anything beyond that. I mostly only cut birch and black & white spruce in winter in Interior Alaska, so usually near 0F or colder. I'd like to be able to run my saw in the 30s below. What modifications to the saw do you recommend I do to get the best performance out of it? Also, should I thin bar oil with diesel/kerosene or get a winter oil like Stihl's? I've read the Oregon all season oil is very thin and wondering if that would work. Also could adjust the oiler, since I'll usually be running thin oil. I've run saws a fair bit, but tweaking them like this is new... but I love perfecting things, so I'm open to having some fun with it. Love your videos. Thanks!
GREAT EXPLANATION BUDDY ,,YOU COULD HAVE MADE AN AWESOME SHOP TEACHER ,,TAKER EASY TINMAN ✊✊✊✊
27:00 the 550 M2 I find pulls a 20" just fine and is plenty powerful to cut decent size logs. If you got something bigger, you need a bigger size saw.
As with any custom work there will always be hiccups. For me the 590 in its stock form cuts everything I need at a "decent pace". It's a saw for the everyday man, at a price that is acceptable. I like the idea of erking a bit more out of it with the carb and coil. Perhaps porting might be better suited for the 620 since it already comes with the coil, carb and a 2 ring piston, but then again like you said this is unexplored territory and the bigger saws will always be faster when built right.
Got the 440 bouncing around in the bed of the truck as we speak!
Thanks for sending this saw to the channel. It has made for good conversation and brain stimulation. Great community here!
Loved that saw
Very interesting video my friend. Looking forward to more
Hi tinman I am Greg young my experience with 2 strokes is in 1990s I built race jet skis and milled heads decked cylinders and ported for several local shops . Lately I have been porting chainsaws. I ported a cs620p similar to yours I do duration no opening time . Exhaust 163 intake stock height wider slightly nothing to transfer openings except chamfering better. I also put pop up piston in sea level here I have 165 psi compression no base gasket. I dont cc unless I have removable head . Opened up lower transfers slightly . I know the more porting is done that slot more compression is needed dont know if this is difference or something else I is going on. A popup piston is cheap and might be worth a try. hope it helps . I like your videos I am just another guy in garage Greg
Thank you!!
I have many larger saws, but I bought a EFCO CS52 at the pawn shop that looked brand new for $80, it now has a 24" cannon super bar and a narrow kerf chain, it's very impressive for 50cc, many times the same saws are hot rods for the factory making over 4hp, so bigger saws with that much piss and vinegar would be making an easy ten hp.
Tinmaaaaan 🙄, totally followed everything you said brother. If the entire charge can't escape through the upper transfers then it can't be lit.. On the downstroke that unspent charge will escape through the muffler as the fresh change is being pulled into the case. The process needs that change to be Forced through the transfers. If the spark is hot then there shouldn't be a problem burning what's being compressed. I know I'm babbling Tinman but I think we are pretty much on the same page.. BTW, I'm a diehard 266 man, just ported another one and trying out a Molybean piston from Duke's. Quite a bit lighter than stock and seems like a very hard coating.. I'll pull it apart after cutting a few chords and see how the coating stands up. Once again we are all thankful for the time you put in to all the great videos. The new phone takes very crisp vids brother.. SLANT'E
Thanks for the update. I'm very curious what the issue is.
Great job on the explanation
Your a very cool dude! I would love to learn more from you
Timberwolf... this is the one that would meet all my needs around the yard.
I'll have to look at my air filter. Check for fuel. What would you recommend one do if they intend to keep it stock. Just need it to run reliably/consistently.
Doesn't seem relevant to what your dealing with. Though I had a 590 that developed a leak around the decompression easy start plunger.
Luckily it was still under warranty.
Love to see what you could do with the CS-520
Now I can’t wait. I wanna know. This is good stuff
Thanks for info.
I was thinking buying a used $200 cs-590. And think will pass to go for a used $350 cs-680. Those 680's are still made and used since the 90s , were the saw that made echo.
My new 550xp has the same power as my old 266xp. Both stock, I’ll take my new 550xp and it’s 1 1/2 pounds lighter. Check the specs. Love the channel.
Curious to see what the fixes is for the 590. If it's true what you're saying too much into charge coming in, I wonder if opening up the intake port to slow the intake charge would help? Not changing the intake timing. Just increasing intake port volume size only. Thanks for sharing your notebook information.
Could you elaborate more on the intake retiming? I’m not sure what that means or how it’s accomplished.
I was thinking about getting a 590 is there a comparablly priced saw that out of the box that can be tuned to rip
Can anyone tell me if the numbers translate to 50cc saws? I have an ms260 and a brand new 550xp that need some lovin.
Limbing in hardwoods... There is no stand up and buck in those messes.
Falling and bucking are 462 and 2171. Firewood is 362. All woods ported. But my poor limbers are, unfortunately, stock.
Swap the nozzle in the carb... with Walbro 86-578-1. Very tunable then. I do it to everyone I port I’ve probably built 25
I understand the high jets in the 620p and the 590 have a bypass so they can't lean out - does your mod remove the bypass? thanks?
@@telecasterfool1773 it's a non bypass nozzle correct.. allows you to lean them completely out.
@@buxtonworksawsllc9645 Thanks! I ordered two for my 590 and 600P projects. The 590 I'm making one change at a time, running it each time doing tree work to see the effects. Thanks again!
I have given him that part number three times. I have this installed in my 590 with the 620 carb and coil. Solved all my issues
@@Engine4dragon Thanks for that! I have a 590 with the 620 coil and decompression delete. I have the 620 carb - it will be next. Good to hear the nozzle helps.
I'm getting a CS590 tomorrow as part of a package deal. I don't need it to rip hard. Is does gutting the muffler help it any? Thanks for the in depth video.
Hi tinman. Very nice indeed . Not sure i understand everything. Am trying. Awesome peace from Scotland stu and family
You are a smart man, the way you think is brilliant. I hope it works out!
Always learning. That's what it's all about. I love to learn myself. I've never been a know it all because know it alls already "know everything". I listen to the guy who says I don't everything. Those are the guys who usually know what they are talking about.
I agree with the concept, use a larger saw for cutting larger wood rather than wear out a smaller saw that has to scream to get it done.
Maybe try to JB Weld the intake floor to take some duration out so it won't spit back...then if it doesn't work it's easy to get JB Weld out
Cheers man. 🍻
Hey tinman I'm as experienced in saws as you as I'm learning here to but I have had a echo cs-590 for 3 years
All I did is remove the jet limiters and open the exhaust
Everything else is stock and this saw will rip right alongside a 65 or 70 cc saw
Pulling a 20 inch chain with a lot of authority
I hot rodded an echo cs400. It’s a light little 42cc power head with a custom 20 inch bar running a full chisel. I can bury the whole bar into hard oak and it doesn’t even slow down and it just throws chips. It’s 42cc’s out cuts every other saw I’ve ever seen under 60cc’s. I love roosting chips in my friends faces that are running much bigger and more expensive saws. To top it off, it can sit for months and I can go start it within 3 pulls, even on a 20* day.
Can you do a base gasket delete to lower the intake timing?
I have a 590 hope to see how this works
Just curious what fuel and mix oil do you use ? For my 590 it's rec fuel and blends all gold label made a big improvement,stock saw
Anyone know if the 620 full wrap handle fits the 590
The 590 owners manual specifies a top end of 12-13K, so I’m not sure what I’m missing about it not hitting the specs.
I like hanging out here!
So, I am a bumper jack when it comes to some things. I am a 61 ½ y o Stone mason. I used every kind of combustible tool I ever had close enough to put my hands on. I like the Tinman. I am in NH so when you start with this is so and so MM and so mm. I have to say I am not writing this down. What would happen when you change the rings before you carve up the replacement cylinder. Is this blow Down blow by?
I have a CS-590 myself. I love it when it runs. I cant get the low jet adjusted correctly, it dies on idle but runs on full throttle at start up. This saw has always defeated me. I have adjust and rebuilt plenty of carbs on other saws but this one always leaves me scratching my head. Love the channel and love what you do with these saws. I have 12 acres in NH with mostly hard wood trees so I definitely fall in the farm ranch saw category lol.
See Buxton Work Saws llc comment about the Walbro part to change out. These carbs are made to run rich by having an extra nozzle in them so homeowners can't incorrectly run the saw lean and blow them up. You change the part to the new one without a hole in it and the carb becomes tunable like a standard saw. Worked great for me last winter on one i repaired for someone that wouldn't idle or run well.
The button in the main jet is the culprit. Just stop up the hole and the saw will run after reset the h l
So what if u added the coil & muffler mods? Will it Rev higher & clean up?
Trying to cut up smaller logs with a big saw is just a pain in the ass. But I just cut firewood. I have small medium and large saws and use them accordingly. Kind of like hammers. One doesn't do everything well.
I cut a lot of 20-24 inch What saw do you recommend. I hate having a wrong saw for The job.
Have you ever ported Stihl 041 AV with 44mm piston?
Tinman, you really should try advancing ignition timing. It has made some seriously good changes to my saws.
Ok something i learned about mine is the higher rpms out of the box come after the second tank of fuel when its hot. Its really wierd but you'll feel and hear it
could you skirt the problem (no pun intended) by fitting a piston with a longer skirt, shortening the intake timing?
or a piston with a lower pin and raise the cylinder for the same effect?
to me that could be a cheaper way of testing your theory/fixing the problem without potentially having to buy a new cylinder.
i am loving the more in-depth look at theory.
to me i see it as, the more knowledge the greater the chance of making the right decisions on what to change.
You’ll get it figured out! I have no doubt! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Morning TinMan hope you have ah great day today
Have you thought about epoxying the intake
Just asking, what it would run if you ported my 590?
Looking for a fuel tank for a echo 550evl any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Tinman, I have a 620. I'm just a firewood guy. As a former owner operator of a 266, I've been super impressed with the 620. I TRY to find fault with it, but cannot! In my heart, I'm a husky man. But I don't like the new Huskies. Money wasn't a issue. The 620 is a simple straightforward saw like my old 266. Question is, you think the primary in he 620 is same as the 590?
Since talking abt different cylinder. What abt take one you have and JB weld the intake change timing . See if can save factory cylinder. I'd go with different cylinder like you said. But I've seen guys run cylinder with JB weld to change timming to get what they want. That or change flow pattern in both intakes and exhausts. When I get done with other projects have time get into saws. I'd like take a cylinder that classified as junk. And try welding the intake or exhaust and fix it that way. And see what happens. Of course be testing on my own stuff.
I’m picking up what you’re putting down, unlike those transfers.
I cut for a paycheck everyday the best chainsaw ive ever owned
yes, maybe the upper transfers are too small, or maybe the lower bypass ports are soooo big, that you might consider stuffing the case. Thanks for the update. [ I added this: long bore=more fuel in the bottom end since the bypass ports were enlarged. Harvey might disagree, 'bigger is better' he might say, but you've lost transfer velocity, and as you mentioned , too much fuel.]
Please build a ECHO 4910/501p. Guys are building them all over UA-cam and reporting they respond very well to modification. It would be awesome to see your version of one built. Hello from Ontario.
Interesting
Because I was thinking about getting the 590 but this Definitely has me rethinking now. However now I am very curious as well to know what's going on their
Ok, I don't know nothing from nothing about porting saws but a thought, if you are getting too much fuel why not try to restrict the fuel coming in, smaller fuel line, to see if it cleans up. Just a thought. Good stuff though Tinman and others comments. Mahalo...🤙.
Maybe even try to advance ignition timing a few degrees in the flywheel key
The beard is wearing nicely if I do say so myself (I have a wife and daughter btw) there mr tinman, I'll compliment a nice beard right quick like lol, I feel like back in grade school in math class but fun and allready obsessed with subject , tinman say slowly, and the blow down...15 degrees blow down, BD. Hahaha I love it
I 100% agree with your opinion on them buddy
What if you put a Reed on the intake
I just put together my first farmertec kit saw and I'm getting gas in the muffler and spitting out the carb too
Carb float adjustment... Fuel pump?
@@countryfriedent I knew it had a bad coil when I first tested it out, I replaced it the coil and I got it to fire and run for 30ish seconds when it was bone dry but it hasn't started since then
Sometimes those farmertec cylinders have crazy long intake timing. You may have too much intake duration or the metering lever in the carb is too high.
Tinman, have you looked into the high jet issues with these saws - I have read the high jet has a bypass that keeps it from ever leaning out. See the comments below about that jet. Thanks for the videos.
Like and understand how your brain works there Tinman. This one is getting watched a couple times. Think I need to let this lesson soak in
Try a smaller carb. I put a tiny little carb from a hand held leaf blower on an 8hp Tecumseh that's runs a wood splitter and it runs awesome and it's held on with zip ties and wire.There's a video of a kid that owns a 76 ford Maverick car with a 302 motor and he made a throttle body that would fit on his car with a carburator from a " lawnmower".... Long story short he could rip the tires run all out and is getting 45'miles to the gallon. Even he said that it doesn't make sense and shouldn't work but it does. Sometimes man made machines work better when instead of going bigger go the opposite. A guy with a 2500 HP Vette was braking traction damn near all the way in a 1/4 mile pull . He turned the HP down and finally was hooking getting decent times.
To give you a different question, one that I am interested in right now, what is the best 18" bar brand to run on a saw for firewood cutting or tree work?
Stihl light bar makes a huge difference for BUCKING firewood
Stihl bars or if money is no object ... Cannon superbar
It’s hard to be an Oregon Vera Cut for the money.
Hey tinman love you buddy
Emm... some of the logic is a little off. Increasing the crankcase volume (opening out lower ports) REDUCES the crankcase pressure... imagine doubling the crankcase volume, crankcase pressure up or down ? "Primary Compression Ratio" for 2 strokes, is what we are on about here, and that long intake will give a low primary compression. Seems to me you've analysed the rich mixture issue as part of intake timing being too long (entirely plausible) and then ignored it. How can changing the transfers fix that? Taking the exhaust off most likely just allowed the cylinder to empty out a bit more of the end gas - always good for the nest combustion cycle, thats not the same as pulling fuel back in from the exhaust.
U know what to do sir ull build a dang good saw 4sure i know u will happy Halloween.