Thanks a TON! It worked, the water made all the difference. I got some cracks from it, but I smoothed them out while it was drying. Thanks again. Carolyn
Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
Gee, I use the lightweight joint compound out of the big buckets - about 5 gallons. It is the perfect consistency right out of the bucket. Each object that I use to make impressions is first dipped in a water bucket. I had some bad luck with smaller buckets a couple of years back.
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
I have never even tried painting before but you make it look so easy and I love the work you did in this video. How did you keep the impressions from spiking up when you pull up the article you used for stamping? Did you wait a while before applying the stamped image?
I've tried a material that is used to fell cracks in floor. It was a little grainy, but worked well - until it aged and did some cracking. Liquitex makes a liquid marble product that accepts textures - but is a little runny and the textures aren't sharp.
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
Love your videos! Want more! I've been experimenting with this technique. Questions: What do you "seal" the plaster with before you paint on it?. I use modeling paste, so do I still need to seal it with something before I paint? Also, do you reuse the doilies or are they ruined after every use.? Do you wash them? Thanks!!!
I have done small areas on masonite - but I would be worried that the plaster would crack and come loose on canvas just because the surface is not rigid. However very small areas might work well. I would seal with two or three coats of gloss polymer medium and then prime that with gesso or whatever you normally use for primer.
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
I impress my stamps and texture makers immediately into the wet plaster - THE TRICK is to wet any object before pressing it into the plaster. The water prevents any plaster from sticking to the objects. Of course, the drying time is increased by the water - I wait a minimum of 48 hours before sanding the too rough edges and sealing with 2 coats of gloss polymer medium..
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
I've never heard of vinyl spackling. I wonder if waterbased paints will stick to it? Please let me know. I've heard of caulk being used on small pieces.
I work on Masonite/standard board. I prime it with latex primer. I work right on the wet plaster BUT I have to wet everything before I press it in the plaster. I allow 48 hours if the plaster isn't too thick. Yes, I seal it with two coats of gloss polymer medium - usually I lightly sand before painting pgm.
I just finished working my first try at this! I'm so excited to see how it turns out. It was really easy to work with the joint compound. Do you ever fix mistakes with your fingers (wet with the compound) because that's what I did a few times. I love your videos and hope to see more!! You're an amazing artist and I sincerely hope you think that imitation is the best form of flattery!
I googled it and i should really use joint compound like you do. On a large piece I did get some flake offs with the spackle. Back to the hardware store for me.
hi..can you use anything else other than joint compound..like you know that stuff you use to glue tiles...I do a lot of mosaics and that stuff drys real fast...would like to use that instead of wasting it...thanx ;-) also when you prime the wood do you use regular house primer? have the whole 25 or 50 gallon left over from house painting...;-D
Did I forget that! I use joint compound - the plaster used on walls and ceilings which I get at the lumber yard. I prefer the blue (light weight) 5 gallon bucket.
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets! ~Leonie
Hi Bozzo, itz amazing technique. Thanks for sharing this.This is very interesting project. Can i use the same compound on canvas as well?Once the compound is dry, will it give any cracks on canvas? Please let me know
If you look closely, I clean about an 1/8" to 1/4" of the plaster away from the border. Then, when the plaster is dry, I sand the edges, too. You might be able to sand the plaster and paint - and then brush paint the edges.
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
thanks. i accidentally bought tempered masonite board. is there a way i can prep the board for this technique or should i just get another type of wood? any suggestions? sorry i need some work done for my local gallery and im pressed for time. thanks ag ain.
fan Frikken Tastic!! I love those Texture's, Why IF I have Painted on joint Compound before, Why Didnt I think too, use Materials for Texture before, I love the Process, and It looks "Wonderful " tanks alot.
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
Love your ART and the feeling for colours!
Chapeau!
Thanks a TON! It worked, the water made all the difference. I got some cracks from it, but I smoothed them out while it was drying. Thanks again. Carolyn
Hi Paul. I'm a painter, and I became a fan of yours about 5 years ago when I did a small "painting" after viewing your "steps" video. Shortly after that, I went on my honeymoon, and my puppy-sitter fell in love with it. Sadly, I don't have a photo of it, but I DID trade it for about $100 worth her service. (Just thought it was kind of a funny anecdote.) I really need to do a second one. It was a lot of fun and so relaxing. I'm amazed at the development of your art in the subsequent years. It's marvelous!
Thanks, Cat! Yes, interesting story. I have been working in this vain for over 45 years now. Still a thrill every time the colors work out! Yes, make some new pieces and send me a photo, please. Paul
You're a hoot! I will. Big hug, cat
This is sooo very cool! AND beautiful!!! Thanks for sharing!
This is absolutely beautiful. Thank you for sharing!
This is amazing! Fantastic piece of art.
Great technique and beautiful results. Thanks for sharing!
Whoa! This is incredible!
Thanks. I work with texture as well and love to see textured ideas. I have never tried to frame anything but might get brave enough to learn.
This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!
@Morningwhispers I really liked your large piece with all the cool things embedded in it - including Mona Lisa - great size!
wooooooow!! It's exactly what I've been searching for!! thank you thank you thank you! :-)
Gorgeous. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for your response. I love your art work. Very unique. I hope you do more videos.
Thanks a lot for sharing, I wasn't sure what should i use for raised texture... & love your work.. I was inspired :o)
Amazing tecniques!! and funny :)
I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.
your work and music taste are fantastic! yay!
WOW, I love this!!!
I love this. I really want to try it.
very creative! I love it!
@sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.
@scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...
omg! this is really awesome! thanks for sharing...
@art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.
Amazing! Could you post a video on painting/coloring this? Or a pic of how it looks after painting? Thanks!
aw something else for me to try i love to do textural works and use builders caulk .thanks for sharing this great video.
That's a real resourcefulness:-)
Gee, I use the lightweight joint compound out of the big buckets - about 5 gallons. It is the perfect consistency right out of the bucket. Each object that I use to make impressions is first dipped in a water bucket. I had some bad luck with smaller buckets a couple of years back.
Thanks! I use all water-based stuff - Liquitex acrylic paints and gloss medium for a sealer.
Congrats on finishing a piece!
@free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.
@mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.
очень красивая работа, очень вдохновляет
Dear RentAnEducation, I haven't had a problem probably because of these factors: I work on a rigid surface, I apply the joint compound no thicker than 1/16", each finished piece has five coats of polymer medium which dries like a plastic skin. My oldest pieces have survived for 42 years!
Paul I looked at this video in 2013 and it made me change my idea of painting and have been working with plaster for two years. If you can go to our community to see what you started. "Textured Art Gallery" please post some of your lovely work.
Instead of water in the plaster I use white glue, ends up with a really hard texture and really hard to scratch.
I will try that. I have been using joint compound. Did the paint crackle?
No, actually it held together really well. The was actually like rock by the time the mixture hardened. I guess it's all in the mix ratios. I even added some acrylic house paint to give it a white finish.
Thank you George. I was thinking to add latex varnish but never did it.
Love this video. I use wall compound and white glue or carpenters glue on firm surface to avoid cracks.
How do you clean the rubber stamp after using for texture in this video.. Love this video , thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for this!
Deborah Narendorf You are welcome! I started working like this in 1971!
Thanks for that!! Sounds good for everyone who works on canvas.
Yes, allow the Kilz2 to dry completely - 1 or 2 days depending on the humidity. Larger pieces of masonite always rise in the middle after being wetted by the Kilz2 or any other primer. The masonite will relax (flatten) by itself when it dries.
@vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.
@crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.
Masonite is a Good Hard canvas Surface But You Gotta sand/Scuff It very Well For proper Adhesion. I use a DA/Random Orbital Sander & 120 Grit paper. Then Prime with 123 bulls-Eye Brand spray primer. Works Good so far
I have never even tried painting before but you make it look so easy and I love the work you did in this video. How did you keep the impressions from spiking up when you pull up the article you used for stamping? Did you wait a while before applying the stamped image?
Is vinyl spackling ok to use insead of joint compound? Love your work so much!
Great idea!! beautiful work!! thanks for sharing.. = 0 )
Great tutorial! I was wondering if the joint compound is heavy to hang?
I've tried a material that is used to fell cracks in floor. It was a little grainy, but worked well - until it aged and did some cracking. Liquitex makes a liquid marble product that accepts textures - but is a little runny and the textures aren't sharp.
Thank you so much Mr.
@pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!
Greetings - I think the easiest way would be to cut out your shapes from something like matboard/thin cardboard. Then glue the pieces onto a backing (matboard or thin cardboard, too). Then use that to impress the plaster. Another method, which I use, starts with linoleum which you could carve into the shapes you need. Maybe wood carving would work also? Good luck.
@mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.
Thanks for your comments here and on the other video - MUcH aPprEciaTeD!
I love your work, beautiful I've done something similar on my walls.
+Barbara Ferrell Thanks! I'd love to see your walls! Do you have images posted anywhere? I'll check your youtube channel.
This looks great, and I loved the video where you applied the paint, but I have a concern about the material. I've done a lot of sheetrock work on my house, and I have a concern that the compound is so brittle. It seems like the surface could crack or crumble if it isn't handled carefully. What has been your experience with this?
@sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)
@lettherebeart Thanks. I have yet to try caulking to make texture with - I will soon - I'm thinking of making some artcards that way.
That's cool, very artistic
Thanks! Just mention that the joint compound is the "mud" builders use on walls and ceilings! Good luck.
Love your videos! Want more! I've been experimenting with this technique. Questions: What do you "seal" the plaster with before you paint on it?. I use modeling paste, so do I still need to seal it with something before I paint? Also, do you reuse the doilies or are they ruined after every use.? Do you wash them? Thanks!!!
I have done small areas on masonite - but I would be worried that the plaster would crack and come loose on canvas just because the surface is not rigid. However very small areas might work well. I would seal with two or three coats of gloss polymer medium and then prime that with gesso or whatever you normally use for primer.
@LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst
What are you using for a base? Is it canvas board or something else? Love this art and plan to try it myself! Thanks!
Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know
I impress my stamps and texture makers immediately into the wet plaster - THE TRICK is to wet any object before pressing it into the plaster. The water prevents any plaster from sticking to the objects. Of course, the drying time is increased by the water - I wait a minimum of 48 hours before sanding the too rough edges and sealing with 2 coats of gloss polymer medium..
Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much
Great work. How do you frame them for your wall, or for hanging? Thanks
@katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries. I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!
Oh that is really helpful thank you Paul
@redihpeach Thanks! I have another video posted that shows the "coloring" process.
oh Yeah I also had a Doillie, laying in my house for about Ten years, and I just gave it away Too Goodwill about Four MOnths ago< of course!! thanks
@fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.
Good ideas Paul!!! & Viewers Mix in Acrylic Colors To the Paste for Diversities. & Take a Sponge With Paint Onit To Overlay a 2nd Color...........
Thanks, look for some of my other videos that show how I work colors into the textures!
I've never heard of vinyl spackling. I wonder if waterbased paints will stick to it? Please let me know. I've heard of caulk being used on small pieces.
I work on Masonite/standard board. I prime it with latex primer. I work right on the wet plaster BUT I have to wet everything before I press it in the plaster. I allow 48 hours if the plaster isn't too thick. Yes, I seal it with two coats of gloss polymer medium - usually I lightly sand before painting pgm.
this is cool! thank you!
Thanks, Maria, I've been at it for nearly 50 years!
I just finished working my first try at this! I'm so excited to see how it turns out. It was really easy to work with the joint compound. Do you ever fix mistakes with your fingers (wet with the compound) because that's what I did a few times. I love your videos and hope to see more!! You're an amazing artist and I sincerely hope you think that imitation is the best form of flattery!
Yes I see that, that makes good sense. I'll give that a try. TY- Carolyn
I googled it and i should really use joint compound like you do. On a large piece I did get some flake offs with the spackle.
Back to the hardware store for me.
Hi I love your work. Very inspiring. How do you frame and or hang these pieces?
I hope I can find joint compound in the UK as I loved this, I am a real texture kind of girl. Thank you for sharing your art.
hi..can you use anything else other than joint compound..like you know that stuff you use to glue tiles...I do a lot of mosaics and that stuff drys real fast...would like to use that instead of wasting it...thanx ;-)
also when you prime the wood do you use regular house primer? have the whole 25 or 50 gallon left over from house painting...;-D
I have more videos about the various aspects of my work. The most comprehensive one is "2012_03_My Textured Paintings_All Steps & Proceedures"
I work on quarter inch masonite (sometimes called standard board). I buy 4ft by 8ft sheets and cut the sizes I want to work on.
Did I forget that! I use joint compound - the plaster used on walls and ceilings which I get at the lumber yard. I prefer the blue (light weight) 5 gallon bucket.
@artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.
What a great idea! thanks for sharing! Did you paint it after? Love to see that!
@jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.
I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets!
~Leonie
Hi Bozzo, itz amazing technique. Thanks for sharing this.This is very interesting project. Can i use the same compound on canvas as well?Once the compound is dry, will it give any cracks on canvas? Please let me know
I work immediately on the wet plaster - but you must remember to use water on the objects before pressing them into the wet plaster.
@renatallm I"m looking for that answer too! What did he use to seal after making the textures before adding paints?
If you look closely, I clean about an 1/8" to 1/4" of the plaster away from the border. Then, when the plaster is dry, I sand the edges, too. You might be able to sand the plaster and paint - and then brush paint the edges.
I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.
thanks. i accidentally bought tempered masonite board. is there a way i can prep the board for this technique or should i just get another type of wood? any suggestions?
sorry i need some work done for my local gallery and im pressed for time. thanks ag
ain.
Hey do you put on wet doilies or dry ones?
fan Frikken Tastic!! I love those Texture's, Why IF I have Painted on joint Compound before, Why Didnt I think too, use Materials for Texture before, I love the Process, and It looks "Wonderful " tanks alot.
@sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.
Ginmars1 I use the lightweight plus 3 joint compound.
@medhaj33 Thanks! I'm sorry, but the I've never found any other aluminum plates made like the one in the video. I wish I had more pieces, too!
what materail to make texture? Can you tell me? I love your work.