Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator, Faceplate Turning
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- Опубліковано 13 бер 2024
- Faceplate turning on the Shopsmith Lathe Duplicator and finishing a simple candle stick.
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Scott another most excellent demo.
I believe that a beginner can turn out excellent results on the duplicator in 10% of the time they would need to acquire sufficient skill and knowledge to do so with traditional chisels.
The learning curve is so much more acute because the tools contain the accuracy rather than the hands. And, it is much safer than tools… after all, the cutter is mounted to a stand, sitting on a table and maneuvered by hands while close to the table. Much unlike tools, pinched between a few fingers atop a tool rest mere inches away from the cut.
I have another video that shows an extremely useful application for the duplicator… maybe I can work something up in a week or so. I’ll give you a heads-up.
I totally agree and can't wait to see your next video (as always!) Scott
Another great video! Project turned out very well too! As you demonstrated, the template for the face plate was secured by set screws in the Lathe Duo. support. These same set screws can be used to secure the template for the spindle provided the ends of the template are wide enough to use the set screws. This allows adjustment of the template back and forth to allow the final width of the turning to be adjusted as needed. The template gives mainly the desired profile of the turning, whereas the position of the template (forward vs back) determines the width of the turning. Also, when I took the lathe class at the academy, we were taught to hot glue a block of wood to the project and screw into this extra block to secure the whole thing to the faceplate thereby eliminating the screw holes in the workpiece, and also eliminating the concern of damaging your chisels on the screws. Happy turning, jim
I use the same method of double-sided, tape and screws on a bowl once that was 10 inches in diameter, and about 3 inches thick. After finishing the turning, I went to remove the screws and was surprised to find that I forgot to install them! The double sided tape was all it took. That said, I would never advise that. I’ve played a bit with hot glue, but some of the pieces I was turning were stained by the glue. I could definitely see gluing to the waist side of a bowl while turning a dovetail or spigot on the bottom for use with a chuck. I might have to give it another shot.
Another fantastic video. I am no longer skeptical and once I find one, I am getting it. I even have the wife’s ok as she watched this one with me. Thanks
That’s great. It works very well once you play with it a bit.
Thanks so much Scott! Seeing how the lathe duplicator is used, along with your tips and tricks, has helped me greatly! My first practice efforts have not gone well, but I understand more about how the cutter cuts, and especially the function of the center "final distance" hole for aligning the final depth properly. Seeing it done properly fills in all the gaps in the manual!
You are welcome, John.
If I can back-seat-drive for a moment for the benefit of folks who don't turn very much: You mentioned that you got some chatter when you tried to tweek the upper end of your candlestick before you drilled the hole in it. I'm sure this was caused by the excessive stick-out or unsupported length of wood. You were just cutting to far from your faceplate. This could be mitigated in at least two ways. 1) Use a steady rest to support your work much closer to the cut. 2) tip your gouge up to make the cutting edge nearly vertical to make an extreme slicing cut. This also works ho help prevent tearout on stubborn end grain. Take very fine cuts with very light tool pressure so that you slice off little wisps of angel hair. Even better, use both of these techniques together.
The one thing you should not do is replace the very capable Shopsmith with a machine that those unfamiliar with the Shopsmith capabilities might call "a real lathe". A $10,000 Robust will chatter just as bad in these conditions. (Yes, I have had a few uneducated people laugh at my Shopsmith.) I'll get off of my soapbox now.
Feel free to backseat drive! Yes, I was on the fence about grabbing a steady rest, In retrospect I should have taken the time to set one up. Scott
I really appreciate the tips in this video! I may have to break out the manual and try my hand at turning this candlestick!
Very nice project Scott. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Nicely done!
Thank you, Joe.
Great video as usual. Would love to know more about turning with the tail stock degree adjustment.
As someone who has never turned or used the duplcator it would be interesting to know what you are watching. The cutter or the guide or back and forth between the two.
Good question. Until I get to within a 1/8" or so I only occasionally glance at the template. Once I'm making the final cuts I'm pretty much only looking at the follower and the template.
What a machine! Great work.
I agree. It works great.
Very nice. Thank you.
Most welcome
Nice!
Thanks, Albert!
Can you also do an ID turning? That be be a real help for doing a bowl.
Yes, but it’s limited due to the shape of the tool. Certainly you can turn shallow bowls.
I wonder, has anyone built his own lathe duplicator from scratch? It looks simple enough to make. Could be an option if new kits are no longer sold and used ones can't be found.
If you search on UA-cam there are several people who have made a similar duplicator, but I haven’t seen one specific Lu for the Shopsmith. It would be pretty straightforward.
Why don't you use self taping sheet metal screws? I understand the centering the holes but if you're using the correct size screw and self taping no need for all the drilling, just screw in then the out to clean shavings then back in
I've found that self-tapping sheet metal screws do too much damage to the wood.
Excellent demo. But one question: On the faceplate turning, for the final cuts, shouldn't the duplicator always be 90 degrees to the template? For a faceplate turning, this would involve a lot of movement of the duplicator, in order to keep the tracing head perpendicular. On a spindle turning, you just follow straight across, which automatically keeps the tracing head perpendicular to the pattern (or you end up screwing up the diameter of the spindle). Unless you're 90 degrees to the template on the faceplate, isn't the profile you're trying to duplicate also going to be "off" from the original pattern?
Hey Michael. For some turnings, such as the rosettes I mentioned turning, you absolutely have to cur them with the cutter facing the headstock. (I think that’s how I’ll say it to keep things straight in my head!) on this piece I was happier with the cut I was producing when the cutter was positioned as it was when I was turning the spindle. It duplicates the peripherals shape either way, as long at the stylus and the cutter are properly aligned. Scott
You seem to be one of, if not the biggest, shopsmith channels on youtube. Why do you only use the old mark 5? It would seem to be better advertising for them to hook you up with a new and shiny mark 7 with their new headstock. What keeps you from upgrading? I love the content you mkae, I just have a hard time finding content on any of their newer stuff.
I wouldn’t mind having a PowerPro headstock but for me I see no advantage of the Mark 7 over the 510/20. Thanks for your kind comments about the vids. Scott
@MyGrowthRings I've been looking at getting a new one especially since they offer financing now. What is the main difference between the mark 5 and mark 7? The website says it adds the router and shaper but what stops me from doing that with a mark 5? Can't you still do the over head routing on a mark 5?
@@codysmith1915 Double tilt. With the Mark 7 double tilt you have the ability of bringing a shaper cutter or router bit up through the bottom of the table, as opposed to having it mounted from overhead. What do you give up for that feature? You now have to remove any SPT, such as the bandsaw or jointer from the end of the machine every time you move the machine into the drill press or shaper position. I don’t have to do that with my Mark V.
Could have given yourself some extra material so screw holes wouldn't be in the bottom of the project. Also I see you using cloth to wax instead of paper. Please use paper towels for your own safety.
Yes, I could have. This project is destined for my grandkid’s play kitchen, so I wasn’t all that concerned about screw holes.
Great job!
Thank you.