I can't believe I have not see your channel before today. I've worked with my 510 since the late 80s and I've mostly been on my own to work out problems. Watching 3 random videos of yours has answered a multitude of issues that I had thought were inherent flaws in the SS system. Looks like I need to watch every one of your videos, they have added a lot more joy back into working with my Shopsmith. Thank you for your dedication to making quality instructionals!
From using my craftsman bandsaw imo drift is mostly caused by a dull blade, and or pushing the material faster than the blade can efficiently cut. The blade has curf which should effectively clear the way for the remaining part of the blade as long as your fence is pretty close to aligned with the blade.
Enjoying all the info very much. I have 2 shop smiths and a total shop one was my dads need a lot of work motor still runs. The others were at a garage sale for $ 50 bucks lol. They both run total shop runs the best. They all need some work but non the less enjoying using them and am gleaning from you all I can about both brands. Thank you so much for these videos. Hope to get one shop smith to good condition and sell off the rest. 3 is to much.
My Dad made hundreds of nested shaker boxes then moved into turning bowls. Alas I don’t have a single a shaker box he made. One of the great sorrows of my life. Maybe I’ll try to make one.
@@harleywood9588 These are cherry, which is my favorite. I usually prefer to use lacewood or quarter-sawn sycamore for the top, but this was an early set before I started doing that. Scott
Scott, thanks for sharing all your woodworking knowledge and showcasing the SS. I recently purchased a used 1992 SS came with bandsaw and jointer, 520 upgraded rip fence. Love the SS so much I upgraded to a Pro headstock and double tilt system. Would love to learn more about how you build those awesome shaker boxes. Keep the information coming.
ctuundra Thanks for the comment and I may do a vid on the boxes at some point. The process has been covered in several videos by others, but my process is a little different, so there may be some value in sharing. Scott
Enjoy the content as usual. I actually prefer the iron table because it lets me use a MagFence. That’s easy to set to match any drift and the fence locks down very securely.
I’ve played with a MagFence but haven’t purchased one because 93% of my tools have an aluminum table. I don’t have any problem with the cast iron table.
The extra cut off switch is a great idea. Would that work with the power pro motor? Could that cause issues to the complicated computer that controls the shopsmith?
Back in the day the traveling academies taught how to adjust the bandsaw to zero drift. Plus they could cut so thin of rip cuts off that you could see light through the ultra thin piece. They claimed this was normal for a well adjusted Shopsmith bandsaw.
Thanks David. One of these days I need to do a video that addresses just the table options so that folks can easily find it, because my thoughts have been scattered over several videos. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Scott, what’s the widest blade you would use on the Shopsmith bandsaw for resawing? I think the Timberwolf VPC blades come in 1/2” and 3/4”. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video! I have a set of the offset mounts for the bandsaw that allows you to leave it in place while you stand the headstock up into the drill press mode.
Those came along after I left the company and I have never given them a thought. They seem a little unwieldy. Do they introduce any vibration that you didn’t experience before installing them? I should trust the engineers there a little more than I do on this product, but it just appears a little iffy. I would appreciate a full report. Thanks for watching and commenting, Scott
Scott, the original were less than adequate, allowing a lot of flex of the band saw when mounted. I modified their design by increasing the thickness of the flat bar that ties the upper and lower mounts together. The original was a very lightweight 1/8 inch thick plate. I increased it to a 5/8 inch thick plate, same dimensions as the OEM which cured the problem. Lengthened the bolts to allow for the extra thickness. Your doubt was correct but now I am satisfied with my setup!
@@bille3rd I agree that the original plates cause the bandsaw to vibrate. But I heard this somewhere and perhaps someone can verify this: By first tilting the aluminum table to full 45 degrees the headstock will just clear the aluminum table when raised? If it does I'll be going back to original tubes. If not, I'll do Bill's modification.
Great job, Keep them coming. Always learn something from your content. Would like to see a diy drum sander.Also tips on buying and selling used shopsmith items .
Scott… another thing that affects blade tracking is whether you pivot the board at the front of the blade to saw a curve…. Let me explain… I was watching my grandson saw along a curved line. As he turned the board to the left, he pushed it into the side of the blade.As he cut to the right, he pulled against the side of the blade. Both magnified the turn and caused him to cut way off line. That forced him to overcorrect again. It was near impossible for him to get it back on line. I stopped him and had him let loose of the board. The bow in the blade pushed it to the side as it straightened and popped back in the guide grooves of the bearings. I don’t know if it is a “feel thing” or a learned skill but, if you don’t pivot the wood at the front of the blade, it will wander off line.
I was very lucky in that I was given the band saw with the aluminum table, with the circle cutter and the extension and then I found the Kreg fence that they made for the ShopSmith band saw for sale locally on OfferUp, still in the box....for $40. 😎
Traveling academy taught to always put the paper in around the miter bar before tightening the tapered screw to prevent it from galling to the bar and being stuck
They can definitely be an issue between the bar and the sets we, but not between the bar and the table. Now, if you left the bar locked in the table and didn’t use the saw for an extended period of time, I can sure imagine them string to rust. Not a good prize either way! Thanks for jumping into the conversation. You r insights are always welcome. BTW, are you a woodworker? Scott
Typically for resawing, the width of the blade has a lot less to do with Boeing than the tooth count. Ideally, you want about six teeth maximum in the wood. In reality, that’s not practical, but it should give you a sense of how many teeth you should have. Let me see if I can find a link to the blade I use, which will give you a sense for proper tooth count. Beyond that, adjusting your blade for tracking or drift, and not feeding to fast will also help. amzn.to/3ZUse20
Can you tell me if there is a significant difference in a rear bandsaw case 504543 and a 502543? My 504543 was broken at one of the tube openings and I have found a 502543. Thanks Scott. Also moved from OH to NC. Love it here.
They are all interchangeable. I don't recall which cover is which, but some have a dust port, some don't. Some with the dust port have a plastic window and a hole to access the tensioning screw, while others don't. If you just need a cover, they'll all work. Scott
My cast iron bandsaw table is not flat. It forms a v shape with the split being the low part of the v. It is probably about a mm off. Would it make sense to get the aluminum table to be flat? I can't do precision work with this as it is, at least not without adding a secondary table, but that will reduce my cut thickness.
There are a couple styles of bearing guides, and one that Carter makes is very similar to Cool Blocks. I used Cool Blocks back when they first came out, and found that I really didn’t need them. They work no better on 1/4” + blades, and I never use narrower blades, when they actually can be useful. The Carter guide that is a single wheel with a groove in it works very well for that type of scrolling work, but I have a couple scroll saws that do it even better. What is your experience with them? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The only bandsaws I've used is the Shopsmith with a cast Iron table (to date). And a Powermatic model 81 (as seen in the link below); which was too many moons ago to give an accurate opinion on. I don't recall the Powermatic having issues with drift, but getting a flat cut when re-sawing was a challenge (causing curved faces on the work pieces). I do suspect however, having a blade that long was very hard to keep proper tension. Plus, the blade was always under tension while not in use. The machine itself for it's size and weight didn't run very smooth. Quite a bit of vibration to it. Not saying is was setup properly or didn't have blade wheel balance and/or belt vibration issues; which may have been the case. Cool blocks on the Shopsmith work great for my purposes. municibid.com/Listing/Details/1676171/Powermatic-Model-81-HD-Band-Saw One Powermatic I do miss using is the 24" planer with the knife grinding attachment (seen in the link below). bid.hostetterauctioneers.com/lot-details/index/catalog/12793/lot/1665990/Powermatic-24-Planer-w-Grinding-Attachment-M-225
@@chadnevels246 I had that planer too and I also miss it. That thing could chew through anything. The bandsaw stored under tension likely introduced the vibration you described. The number of teeth per inch of the feed rate probably caused the bow of the blade. These things aren't unique to the SS BC.
The switchbox build would be a good topic. I've looked at this feature on other lathes with lust in my heart... ;) Any concerns about using it with the Power Pro headstock?
Yes, it would be a good build and yes, it can cause issues with the PowerPro. As a rule you don't want to cut the power to the PowerPro, but after a reset it should be OK. I would say that if you used the switch only as a precaution and in the case of emergency it would be a wise addition. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Rather than plugging the SS into the switchbox (& the power-cut-off problem) I suspect it would have to wire in just ahead of the on-off switch on the PowerPro digital panel, so some mods to the headstock body and control panel would be needed for routine power-off use. That would've been a great thing to build in as long as they were redesigning for the digital control...Fortunately, I still have my original powerhead - just need a chassis ;)
@@castle5711 Yep. He was using the same DVR motor that Shopsmith uses (Nova) in the PowerPro, and word on the street is that SS had them put the kibosh on his arrangement with them.
In regards to a remote switch you mounted on the right end of our SS, I use a foot switch ( www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html?_br_psugg_q=foot+switch ) then I can move it to a location , depending on the tool use. Obviously this one is only for 110Volt. you can make one for 220 , ( www.grainger.ca/en/product/SWITCH-FOOT-SPDT-20A-NO-CORD/p/WWG2W808 ) this one is good enough for 20 amp , 110-220v
I've used that for the dust collector but will never again use it for a tool. I've accidentally stepped on it and turned on the DC enough times to know that it would be dangerous for me to have a tool attached.
Greetings! I have followed your suggestions for blade drift by adjusting the table, the drawn line and adjust the fence trick and I still can’t correct for drift. I am using 1/4” SS blade. My next step is to put in another blade and attempt to correct. What other suggestion do you have for me to try?
A new blade may be all that's needed. If your blade is tracking correctly and is properly tensioned and guided by the guide blocks, as shown in the previous vid, you should be able to get it locked-in. Were you able to cut a straight line freehand? Did it want to wander even as you were feeding it in a straight line? Scott
My Growth Rings Yes it did wander a bit when I did free hand so it probably is the blade then? Which 1/4” timber wolf blades do you usually use for plywood and hardwood? I am sawing oak and hard maple from 1/2” to 5” thick. For re-saving I am going to use 1/2” blades for the thick stock. Appreciate your videos!
Tim Metz I’m going to cheat a little and paste part of a similar answer I provided another guy. I find myself using a 1/4” 6 tpi “positive claw” and a 1⁄4” 10 tpi “raker tooth” blade, a 3⁄8” 6 tpi “hook-tooth” blade, and a 1⁄2” 3-4 tpi variable tooth blade (the one I showed in the vid) most of the time. If you check out www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php you’ll find that for each of those sizes there are several variations available for each size. The 1/2” Timberwolf resaws perfectly for me every time. Scott
Sort of an all weather tire? That’s tough, because it depends on the type of cutting that you tend to do. I find myself using a 1/4” 6 tpi “positive claw” and a 1⁄4” 10 tpi “raker tooth” blade, a 3⁄8” 6 tpi “hook-tooth” blade, and a 1⁄2” 3-4 tpi variable tooth blade (the one I showed in the vid) most of the time. If you check out www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php you’ll find that for each of those sizes there are several variations available for each size. Also, even though I answered a question about a 5/8” blade, I never seem to use them. The 1/2” Timberwolf resaws perfectly for me every time. Scott
What about resawing 4x4s, what blade should I have. I getting one of those newfangled powerpro headstock upgrades, any advice on how to set that up to resaw 4x4s?
I can't believe I have not see your channel before today. I've worked with my 510 since the late 80s and I've mostly been on my own to work out problems. Watching 3 random videos of yours has answered a multitude of issues that I had thought were inherent flaws in the SS system. Looks like I need to watch every one of your videos, they have added a lot more joy back into working with my Shopsmith. Thank you for your dedication to making quality instructionals!
Hey JP, thanks for your kind words and encouragement. Happy to have you here. Scott
From using my craftsman bandsaw imo drift is mostly caused by a dull blade, and or pushing the material faster than the blade can efficiently cut. The blade has curf which should effectively clear the way for the remaining part of the blade as long as your fence is pretty close to aligned with the blade.
Enjoying all the info very much. I have 2 shop smiths and a total shop one was my dads need a lot of work motor still runs. The others were at a garage sale for $ 50 bucks lol. They both run total shop runs the best. They all need some work but non the less enjoying using them and am gleaning from you all I can about both brands. Thank you so much for these videos. Hope to get one shop smith to good condition and sell off the rest. 3 is to much.
I was right there with you until the last sentence. Too much? HA! Thanks for watching. Scott
My Dad made hundreds of nested shaker boxes then moved into turning bowls. Alas I don’t have a single a shaker box he made. One of the great sorrows of my life. Maybe I’ll try to make one.
That is a shame. Yes, you really should. They aren't difficult to make and are handy to have around. Scott
My Growth Rings
The shaker boxes he made were exactly like you show. Sometimes they were 5-6 maybe more levels deep. What wood did you use?
@@harleywood9588 These are cherry, which is my favorite. I usually prefer to use lacewood or quarter-sawn sycamore for the top, but this was an early set before I started doing that. Scott
Scott, thanks for sharing all your woodworking knowledge and showcasing the SS. I recently purchased a used 1992 SS came with bandsaw and jointer, 520 upgraded rip fence. Love the SS so much I upgraded to a Pro headstock and double tilt system. Would love to learn more about how you build those awesome shaker boxes. Keep the information coming.
ctuundra Thanks for the comment and I may do a vid on the boxes at some point. The process has been covered in several videos by others, but my process is a little different, so there may be some value in sharing. Scott
Enjoy the content as usual.
I actually prefer the iron table because it lets me use a MagFence. That’s easy to set to match any drift and the fence locks down very securely.
I’ve played with a MagFence but haven’t purchased one because 93% of my tools have an aluminum table. I don’t have any problem with the cast iron table.
The extra cut off switch is a great idea. Would that work with the power pro motor? Could that cause issues to the complicated computer that controls the shopsmith?
No, I fortunately that would be a problem for the PowerPro. It’s the same issue if you accidentally flip if the manual switch.
Back in the day the traveling academies taught how to adjust the bandsaw to zero drift. Plus they could cut so thin of rip cuts off that you could see light through the ultra thin piece. They claimed this was normal for a well adjusted Shopsmith bandsaw.
It sure is. I can resaw paper-thin. It really is a well designed saw. Scott
Thanks for all the info that you freely share! 👍✅✅
II learned a lot form the pros and cons discussion regarding he two table types. Thanks again! I'm going tto keep my old cast iron table.
Thanks David. One of these days I need to do a video that addresses just the table options so that folks can easily find it, because my thoughts have been scattered over several videos. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
Scott, what’s the widest blade you would use on the Shopsmith bandsaw for resawing? I think the Timberwolf VPC blades come in 1/2” and 3/4”. Thanks for the great videos!
The widest you can use is 5/8”, but ai use a 1/2” Timber Wolf. I shared we a link to the one I use in the video description. Scott
Thanks Mark. Very helpful. And..now I know why my resaws bulge at the back end of the cut!
You are welcome, Hal. And please, feel free to call me Scott.
@@MyGrowthRings Geesh Sorry. Mark.
Hal Mann :-)
Great video! I have a set of the offset mounts for the bandsaw that allows you to leave it in place while you stand the headstock up into the drill press mode.
Those came along after I left the company and I have never given them a thought. They seem a little unwieldy. Do they introduce any vibration that you didn’t experience before installing them? I should trust the engineers there a little more than I do on this product, but it just appears a little iffy. I would appreciate a full report. Thanks for watching and commenting, Scott
Scott, the original were less than adequate, allowing a lot of flex of the band saw when mounted. I modified their design by increasing the thickness of the flat bar that ties the upper and lower mounts together. The original was a very lightweight 1/8 inch thick plate. I increased it to a 5/8 inch thick plate, same dimensions as the OEM which cured the problem. Lengthened the bolts to allow for the extra thickness. Your doubt was correct but now I am satisfied with my setup!
Bill Everitt Now that makes a lot more sense. That’s the way they should have made it in the first place.
@@bille3rd I agree that the original plates cause the bandsaw to vibrate. But I heard this somewhere and perhaps someone can verify this: By first tilting the aluminum table to full 45 degrees the headstock will just clear the aluminum table when raised? If it does I'll be going back to original tubes. If not, I'll do Bill's modification.
Great job, Keep them coming. Always learn something from your content. Would like to see a diy drum sander.Also tips on buying and selling used shopsmith items .
Lance Farmer Yeah, if I would have thought about it I would have cut to it, but the thought hadn’t occurred to me. I’ll make it happen. Scott
You can lift the Shopsmith with a bandsaw w/aluminum table by setting that table to 45 degrees.
Great tip. I’ll have to try that, but my bandsaw lives on the Power Station now.
Well done. 🤜🤛👍👍
Thanks John.
Scott… another thing that affects blade tracking is whether you pivot the board at the front of the blade to saw a curve….
Let me explain… I was watching my grandson saw along a curved line. As he turned the board to the left, he pushed it into the side of the blade.As he cut to the right, he pulled against the side of the blade. Both magnified the turn and caused him to cut way off line. That forced him to overcorrect again. It was near impossible for him to get it back on line.
I stopped him and had him let loose of the board. The bow in the blade pushed it to the side as it straightened and popped back in the guide grooves of the bearings.
I don’t know if it is a “feel thing” or a learned skill but, if you don’t pivot the wood at the front of the blade, it will wander off line.
Thanks for the great video Scott! I really enjoyed it. 👍
Thanks Mark! Scott
I was very lucky in that I was given the band saw with the aluminum table, with the circle cutter and the extension and then I found the Kreg fence that they made for the ShopSmith band saw for sale locally on OfferUp, still in the box....for $40. 😎
Wow, that’s awesome! Makes me a little sad for the guy who originally owned it because they don’t know what they missed out on! Scott
Traveling academy taught to always put the paper in around the miter bar before tightening the tapered screw to prevent it from galling to the bar and being stuck
They can definitely be an issue between the bar and the sets we, but not between the bar and the table. Now, if you left the bar locked in the table and didn’t use the saw for an extended period of time, I can sure imagine them string to rust. Not a good prize either way! Thanks for jumping into the conversation. You r insights are always welcome. BTW, are you a woodworker? Scott
What causes the 1/2" band to bow when resawing thick stock to thin stock?
Typically for resawing, the width of the blade has a lot less to do with Boeing than the tooth count. Ideally, you want about six teeth maximum in the wood. In reality, that’s not practical, but it should give you a sense of how many teeth you should have. Let me see if I can find a link to the blade I use, which will give you a sense for proper tooth count. Beyond that, adjusting your blade for tracking or drift, and not feeding to fast will also help. amzn.to/3ZUse20
After 70 years of using power tools I now have a 5000$ thumb ( fixed after repair) you can't ever be to careful
Sorry to hear that you learned that lesson the hard way.
I ordered the new table upgrade for my older SS bandsaw and hated it and sent it back lol
Yeah, there’s really nothing wrong with the cast iron version. Thanks for watching and commenting, Michael. Scott
Does Timberwolf make blades that fit shopsmith 1977 model 5 bandsaw .
Yep, it’ll work on any bandsaw from Shopsmith going back to the 1950s. Thank you.
Can you tell me if there is a significant difference in a rear bandsaw case 504543 and a 502543? My 504543 was broken at one of the tube openings and I have found a 502543. Thanks Scott. Also moved from OH to NC. Love it here.
They are all interchangeable. I don't recall which cover is which, but some have a dust port, some don't. Some with the dust port have a plastic window and a hole to access the tensioning screw, while others don't. If you just need a cover, they'll all work. Scott
My cast iron bandsaw table is not flat. It forms a v shape with the split being the low part of the v. It is probably about a mm off. Would it make sense to get the aluminum table to be flat? I can't do precision work with this as it is, at least not without adding a secondary table, but that will reduce my cut thickness.
Is your table missing the connector that should be bolted under it at the split? The aluminum table is no flatter if if is missing it’s retainer.
@@MyGrowthRings It is there and engaged.
How true drill press table to drill true vertical holes
How do you true the table?
Any advantages or disadvantages of a bandsaw that uses bearings vs. cool blocks?
There are a couple styles of bearing guides, and one that Carter makes is very similar to Cool Blocks. I used Cool Blocks back when they first came out, and found that I really didn’t need them. They work no better on 1/4” + blades, and I never use narrower blades, when they actually can be useful. The Carter guide that is a single wheel with a groove in it works very well for that type of scrolling work, but I have a couple scroll saws that do it even better. What is your experience with them? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The only bandsaws I've used is the Shopsmith with a cast Iron table (to date). And a Powermatic model 81 (as seen in the link below); which was too many moons ago to give an accurate opinion on. I don't recall the Powermatic having issues with drift, but getting a flat cut when re-sawing was a challenge (causing curved faces on the work pieces). I do suspect however, having a blade that long was very hard to keep proper tension. Plus, the blade was always under tension while not in use. The machine itself for it's size and weight didn't run very smooth. Quite a bit of vibration to it. Not saying is was setup properly or didn't have blade wheel balance and/or belt vibration issues; which may have been the case. Cool blocks on the Shopsmith work great for my purposes.
municibid.com/Listing/Details/1676171/Powermatic-Model-81-HD-Band-Saw
One Powermatic I do miss using is the 24" planer with the knife grinding attachment (seen in the link below).
bid.hostetterauctioneers.com/lot-details/index/catalog/12793/lot/1665990/Powermatic-24-Planer-w-Grinding-Attachment-M-225
@@chadnevels246 I had that planer too and I also miss it. That thing could chew through anything. The bandsaw stored under tension likely introduced the vibration you described. The number of teeth per inch of the feed rate probably caused the bow of the blade. These things aren't unique to the SS BC.
The switchbox build would be a good topic. I've looked at this feature on other lathes with lust in my heart... ;) Any concerns about using it with the Power Pro headstock?
Yes, it would be a good build and yes, it can cause issues with the PowerPro. As a rule you don't want to cut the power to the PowerPro, but after a reset it should be OK. I would say that if you used the switch only as a precaution and in the case of emergency it would be a wise addition. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Rather than plugging the SS into the switchbox (& the power-cut-off problem) I suspect it would have to wire in just ahead of the on-off switch on the PowerPro digital panel, so some mods to the headstock body and control panel would be needed for routine power-off use. That would've been a great thing to build in as long as they were redesigning for the digital control...Fortunately, I still have my original powerhead - just need a chassis ;)
@@castle5711 Did you ever see this? ua-cam.com/video/pJEbHGBGc5s/v-deo.html Unfortunately he met the same and as Preston Tucker.
@@MyGrowthRings Interesting. His site appears to be defunct. Thx
@@castle5711 Yep. He was using the same DVR motor that Shopsmith uses (Nova) in the PowerPro, and word on the street is that SS had them put the kibosh on his arrangement with them.
In regards to a remote switch you mounted on the right end of our SS, I use a foot switch ( www.harborfreight.com/power-maintained-foot-switch-96618.html?_br_psugg_q=foot+switch ) then I can move it to a location , depending on the tool use.
Obviously this one is only for 110Volt. you can make one for 220 , ( www.grainger.ca/en/product/SWITCH-FOOT-SPDT-20A-NO-CORD/p/WWG2W808 ) this one is good enough for 20 amp , 110-220v
I've used that for the dust collector but will never again use it for a tool. I've accidentally stepped on it and turned on the DC enough times to know that it would be dangerous for me to have a tool attached.
Greetings! I have followed your suggestions for blade drift by adjusting the table, the drawn line and adjust the fence trick and I still can’t correct for drift. I am using 1/4” SS blade. My next step is to put in another blade and attempt to correct. What other suggestion do you have for me to try?
A new blade may be all that's needed. If your blade is tracking correctly and is properly tensioned and guided by the guide blocks, as shown in the previous vid, you should be able to get it locked-in. Were you able to cut a straight line freehand? Did it want to wander even as you were feeding it in a straight line? Scott
My Growth Rings Yes it did wander a bit when I did free hand so it probably is the blade then? Which 1/4” timber wolf blades do you usually use for plywood and hardwood? I am sawing oak and hard maple from 1/2” to 5” thick. For re-saving I am going to use 1/2” blades for the thick stock. Appreciate your videos!
Tim Metz I’m going to cheat a little and paste part of a similar answer I provided another guy. I find myself using a 1/4” 6 tpi “positive claw” and a 1⁄4” 10 tpi “raker tooth” blade, a 3⁄8” 6 tpi “hook-tooth” blade, and a 1⁄2” 3-4 tpi variable tooth blade (the one I showed in the vid) most of the time. If you check out www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php you’ll find that for each of those sizes there are several variations available for each size. The 1/2” Timberwolf resaws perfectly for me every time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thank you!
what is the best multi purpose blade for a band saw
Sort of an all weather tire? That’s tough, because it depends on the type of cutting that you tend to do. I find myself using a 1/4” 6 tpi “positive claw” and a 1⁄4” 10 tpi “raker tooth” blade, a 3⁄8” 6 tpi “hook-tooth” blade, and a 1⁄2” 3-4 tpi variable tooth blade (the one I showed in the vid) most of the time. If you check out www.timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php you’ll find that for each of those sizes there are several variations available for each size. Also, even though I answered a question about a 5/8” blade, I never seem to use them. The 1/2” Timberwolf resaws perfectly for me every time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings What length do we order when using other than Shopsmith as the vendor?
Hal Mann 72”
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks.
Oh. Chad. LOL!
What size are they ? 72 “ ?
Yes, 72”, but the bandsaw is able to accept a blade that is a half inch smaller or a half inch larger than 72.
What about resawing 4x4s, what blade should I have. I getting one of those newfangled powerpro headstock upgrades, any advice on how to set that up to resaw 4x4s?
I use this blade for all my resawing; up to 6" stock: amzn.to/2Qyvmle You'll love resawing with the PowerPro behind it. Scott