Awesome! I’ve used the car builders stuff to sound great and insulate the roof of my car, it’s amazing. I’ll be painting a new bonnet soon for my car as well, definitely going to use some of this stuff as well!
Like many others: no before and after sound comparison. Which is the foremost reason I am looking for such videos. But I like the workspace :) nevermind, moving onto the next one hoping for some sound comparison.
Thank you John. We often put sound comparisons in our install videos. However, in our efforts to be totally transparent, we have always felt compromised when doing this. There are so many variables in trying to give an accurate decibel analysis. The vehicle and its age, the model, the motor, modifications, tyres, road, weather, decibel frequency tested.. the list goes on. Please be careful when presented with decibel before and afters. We will have videos out shortly where we test each material (for sound or heat) in controlled situations. Good luck in your search 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 make a lab size sound proof box with two halfs with the material placed in the center. Sound one side, meter the other. Only change the material. Bingo will see material comparison. Just need a real decibal meter, A exhaust shop will have one to borrow or tell you where to source one. Then all you need is sound thats repeatable. A car head unit with speaker and sub would give a good repeatable sound across the Sound spectrum. Sorry but a sound proofing company without even a real decibel meter is laughable 🤦♂️
I helped to install a headliner in my brothers truck, and I used a monokote iron for rc airplane wings, controll surfaces, and fuselage to get the roll on headliner with adhesive to form into the creases and around contoura. The iron comes with cloth covers to use while ironing to prevent Burns and the iron does not use steam. It only uses heat. It seems like on this material that type iron would work well to install the bonet material also.
Hi. The product looks awesome. Although two questions. How good this will be in long run, as standalone under hood insulation? I am planning to replace worn out foam insulation in my w124 and want a standalone product that is not foam like the oe , as with time it tends to crack and fall in small pieces inside bay. Secondly the goal is to mainly reduce diesel clatter noise both inside and outside of car. Thanks
Hi Mayur. Thank you. Yes, this product is a lot more durable than a manufacturer's foam insulation and will last much longer. This insulation will protect the bonnet paint from heat fatigue and also provide some sound insulation .
@@clark57225 hi. I ended up with a product thats 3 layer (foam+alum+butyl) from over a year. Its holding fine but diesel clatter is still loud. Maybe because idi are loud anyways
Good job. I would have even after all that still put the factory liner back on. Maybe a tutorial on how to do the outside of the plastic wheel well fender guards to reduce road noise and water sling off the tyres. Like euro cars, VF commodore etc. Mentioned by Ryan
Very good production. Wish I'd known about this method and material before I put dynamat under the bonnet of my GU. That looks a lot better. How good is it in heat proofing, though?
Thank you. Yes, Dynamat (or our Sound Deadener) primary purpose is to stop panel vibration. It will make a very small difference with heat but not significant and you will want to cover it and not expose it to extreme temperatures in the engine bay. If you don't have the factory cover over it you could look at something like www.carbuilders.com.au/premium-under-bonnet or if heat is a big issue, a more extreme treatment would be www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield 👍
Great tutorial. What would you recommend to reduce vibration in old diesel without dual mass flywheel? I feel vibration throughout the seat, caming from the floor. I have already deadened the firewall with butyl mat and foam mat on it. Now I'm gonna put something on the floor, the target is to reduce vibrations, noise is not so big problem. Thanks you in advance.
Hi Paul. If you have modifications under the bonnet and the engine is kicking out some decent heat, then the peel and stick heat shield if definitely the one for you 👍
Thanks for the video. Just installed the liner i got from the 4wd show in vic... by far the most satisfying thing to install. Impressed at how well it contours and sticks. It looks awesome. Any tips on how to remove excess adhesive i managed to get a some around the edge.
Making templates can be dangerous as it is hard to account for rises and falls in the surface which change the amount of material required (in the video we only used it to make a rough oversized guide). If you lay the sheet on the bonnet/hood first and allow it to be evenly oversided. Then reveal some of the backing on one of the edges of the bonnet and continue from there to stick it down. You will have extra over each side that you will then blade off (careful not to score the paint- as in video) 👍
Shout a mate a couple of beers for this one 👍 In other videos you can see we have place our deadening mats underneath. A win with the Defender is the bonnet angles all the way back to the windscreen so you can install without removing the bonnet.
Hi Mahi. There are cheaper foams that replace the factory underbonnet however, like the manufacturers version, the foam ends up failing and flaking. This product is a textile material, which is more durable. As you can see from the video, we wanted to manufacture a product that looked factory pressed however was able to be applied to a universal bonnet. We want a durable product that could withstand a high pressure hose and was fire retardant. The material is also a dense needle punched fabric, which will help reduce heat transfer and filter sound waves.
thanks for reply can we use the black Blankets used by Army around the world, for the same purpose as it is fireproof and dence, asking for its thermostat properties, is this good or bad for bonnet, or depends on how we install under bonnet, to not to allow heat to tranfer to the layer with direct contact with bonnet, just a query on experimenting ideas!
@@carbuilders1 made some mistakes and managed to get some plastic backing stuck under the matting, and scratched my paint with the scissors 😔, but I like how the material looks and sticks... Will send pics to you guys when I can get the lighting sorted tomorrow
Hi Ryan. Yes, this is fine under the bonnet. You don't need to load it up, just add squares in open, single sheet panel sections and then put the Premium Under Bonnet over the top 👍
I can go with either a foam insulation pad or a fiberglass pad - do you have an opinion on which performs best ? MBZ use foam on $100K cars but I suppose that doesn't mean anything - my original was destroyed by deer mice as they liked the insulation material - do they like foam or FG ? thanks
Our premium under bonnet is a superior product as it isn't a foam but a needle punched polyster. Both will function similiarly, however the material is more durable and puncture resistant than foam.... also I think deer mice detest it 😆
I don’t understand? All you did was replace it. The original didn’t look like it was in bad shape. For some reason replacing an oem with your product helped how? Sound/ heat?
Hi Daniel. Yes, you right, that underbonnet pad was fine, we just used it as a model. You wouldn't do this because, as you have pointed out, it isn't necessary. These pads break down over time, 20 years etc and people find them hard or expensive to replace and this is when this product is used. They are also a durable-faced product so they have advantages there over many OEM versions. Here is an example where we used the original and the Premium Underbonnet product ua-cam.com/video/KhcPs7YhMeQ/v-deo.html
“If you don’t get it right, it’s gonna be skewed, and you’re gonna get to the end and be pullin’ your hair out”. Damn - looks like it took you a little too long to learn that. Sorry, I couldn’t resist. Seriously, great tips on this. I’ll be doing it soon on a Santa Fe. I’ll get out of your hair now . . . well, you know what I mean.
Very nice job and great explanation! I stumbled upon this video as I was looking to do the same to my Skoda Octavia MKIII 2017 facelift as I found it to be noise 2000+ rpm (diesel)... Turns out the insulation Skoda put in place (with clips) is actually the culprit! Would removing it hurt my engine in any way? And secondly, would adding insulation like you did provide noticeable improvements? Thanks!
Thank you. Was the bonnet insulation rattling? Apart from adding some sound insulation, if you remove it you will expose the bonnet to greater heat and potentially paint fatigue. If the factory insulation is in good condition you may look to replace the existing clips as an easy fix. 👍
@@carbuilders1 Indeed, found your remark online too and installed the insulation again. Currently have been looking to buy something like Dynamat Hoodliner, (they advise to apply Extreme first) but seems they only sell the hoodliner in US/UK. Do you have any ideas for alternatives?
Hi BREDS. www.carbuilders.com.au/premium-under-bonnet We can ship this internationally. Send us an email for a quote on shipping sales@carbuilders.com.au 👍
It seems easier to flip the old one and use the new material on the backside and drill some holes the using the old front of the bonet hood insulator as template for the holes and then reinstall but with new bont material on the outside.
I'm seriously considering this stuff for a roof liner replacement and door card re-trim in my defender. Do you think it would be appropriate for that? I can't find a video of your 4-way stretch auto carpet
Hi Daniel. It is rated up to 200 degrees C however if you have extreme heat in the engine bay, close to the bonnet, we would recommend a peel and stick heat shield www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield 👍
Insufficient method to address engine noise although its a critical Step 1 in reducing engine noise intrusion. The most IMPORTANT area giving the BIGGEST reduction in engine noise intrusion (besides firewall) is the area/narrow gap behind your door hinges. KIA and Hyundai hv become impressively quieter due to focus on this critical area. Look at the Hyundai Santa Fe..and you’ll see “something” there put by the manufacturers. In contrast, look at the Merc A Class (noisy engine noise and loads of tyre noise). There is NOTHING there (when u open driver door and peep behind the door hinges) except a thin black plastic cover. Look at the narrow area BEHIND your upper and lower door hinges. Thats where engine noise and tyre noise penetrate into the cabin. Its actually a hollow space that leads to the inside of the fender well cavity. Remove the wheel well liner. Stuff loads of waterproof, non fraying noise absorbent material into that empty area. Rolled up or folded up Thinsulate is best. In any non-Continental vehicles, treating this area produces a significantly impressive reduction in engine and tyre noise WITHOUT doing anything else.
It’s too small to fit the bonnet/hood on my 1967 C10 truck. But on the other hand, my front clip weighs as much as the whole car he put a under hood sticky cover. It would have to done in left & right half. Or if down under, right & left half!
I think I would have just traced the old one on to the new one ,but on the under part so no trace of tracing is shown., then trim as needed . But hay there are many ways to skin a cat.
Great job. What was the main objective of the 15min long video??? 1. To teach novices how to apply it? 2. Or to promote the efficacy of the material and treatment ?
😆The original just provides an estimate of material so you're not playing with as much material. If you trace it verbatim you will fall short because of the valleys in bonnet, which will take more material. Good luck in finding your solution 👍
Hi Jason. Yes. We do have a cheap foam version, however there isn't anything as durable and provides that manufacturer's finish look like this product.
Whoa overpriced! Im sure it didnt even cost $10 to manufacture 1 sheet. My factory oem is half the price...and i dont even have to remove my hood to install.
Just installed this toady one underside of my hatches removable parcel shelf. Works a treat
Well done 👍
My box of under bonnet arrived today. What a great company to do a cool vid on how to, if not i probably would have destroyed the job. Thanks guys.
Seems harder than it needs to be, but you only have one chance to do it right. Excellent result.
Awesome! I’ve used the car builders stuff to sound great and insulate the roof of my car, it’s amazing. I’ll be painting a new bonnet soon for my car as well, definitely going to use some of this stuff as well!
Like many others: no before and after sound comparison. Which is the foremost reason I am looking for such videos. But I like the workspace :) nevermind, moving onto the next one hoping for some sound comparison.
Thank you John. We often put sound comparisons in our install videos. However, in our efforts to be totally transparent, we have always felt compromised when doing this. There are so many variables in trying to give an accurate decibel analysis. The vehicle and its age, the model, the motor, modifications, tyres, road, weather, decibel frequency tested.. the list goes on. Please be careful when presented with decibel before and afters. We will have videos out shortly where we test each material (for sound or heat) in controlled situations.
Good luck in your search 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 make a lab size sound proof box with two halfs with the material placed in the center. Sound one side, meter the other. Only change the material. Bingo will see material comparison. Just need a real decibal meter, A exhaust shop will have one to borrow or tell you where to source one. Then all you need is sound thats repeatable. A car head unit with speaker and sub would give a good repeatable sound across the Sound spectrum.
Sorry but a sound proofing company without even a real decibel meter is laughable 🤦♂️
I helped to install a headliner in my brothers truck, and I used a monokote iron for rc airplane wings, controll surfaces, and fuselage to get the roll on headliner with adhesive to form into the creases and around contoura. The iron comes with cloth covers to use while ironing to prevent Burns and the iron does not use steam. It only uses heat. It seems like on this material that type iron would work well to install the bonet material also.
Interesting, I don't have a heat gun, but have one of these irons I never use 🤔👍🏻
Top quality work. This is a seriously undersubscribed channel that deserves a lot more subscribers and views
Thank you for your support hafeexius 😎👍
That was a top job that one.
That stuff looks like itll be good to help cut down the tyre noise on the inside of the wheel well
Ryan Macklin great idea! Car Builders please do a front wheel well video?
Thank Ryan Macklin. Next video up will be wheel well.
Great, instructional video mate! Can't wait for the next one.
Hi. The product looks awesome.
Although two questions. How good this will be in long run, as standalone under hood insulation? I am planning to replace worn out foam insulation in my w124 and want a standalone product that is not foam like the oe , as with time it tends to crack and fall in small pieces inside bay.
Secondly the goal is to mainly reduce diesel clatter noise both inside and outside of car.
Thanks
Hi Mayur. Thank you. Yes, this product is a lot more durable than a manufacturer's foam insulation and will last much longer. This insulation will protect the bonnet paint from heat fatigue and also provide some sound insulation .
Great question, that's exactly what I wanted to know for my 300E.
@@clark57225 hi. I ended up with a product thats 3 layer (foam+alum+butyl) from over a year. Its holding fine but diesel clatter is still loud. Maybe because idi are loud anyways
@@CarReporter12 Thank you for the information. I will look into it further.
Good job.
I would have even after all that still put the factory liner back on.
Maybe a tutorial on how to do the outside of the plastic wheel well fender guards to reduce road noise and water sling off the tyres.
Like euro cars, VF commodore etc. Mentioned by Ryan
Thanks v8soarer1991. We are just about to make a wheel well clip. Stay tuned!
@@carbuilders1 Surely they will deliver. They wouldnt leave us out in the cold.
@@JohnDobak 😆It's coming.
Car Builders - Thermal & Acoustic insulation materials any update on the fender liner video?
This looks really nice! Nice finishing touches. Definitely adds to the car!
Thanks for the positive feedback 🤙
Very good production. Wish I'd known about this method and material before I put dynamat under the bonnet of my GU. That looks a lot better. How good is it in heat proofing, though?
Thank you. Yes, Dynamat (or our Sound Deadener) primary purpose is to stop panel vibration. It will make a very small difference with heat but not significant and you will want to cover it and not expose it to extreme temperatures in the engine bay. If you don't have the factory cover over it you could look at something like www.carbuilders.com.au/premium-under-bonnet or if heat is a big issue, a more extreme treatment would be www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield 👍
Is this available in the UK? It's just what I am looking for.
Great tutorial. What would you recommend to reduce vibration in old diesel without dual mass flywheel? I feel vibration throughout the seat, caming from the floor. I have already deadened the firewall with butyl mat and foam mat on it. Now I'm gonna put something on the floor, the target is to reduce vibrations, noise is not so big problem. Thanks you in advance.
Thank you. If your vibration is that significant you should look at alternatives in more efficient engine mounts or even suspension cushion seats.
Or balance the flywheel at a machine shop
@@smportis do you think it would help? I noticed that vibration are gone above 1k rpm, the problem is only at idle.
@@pabllok Try replacing the engine mounts.....
@@alexbrown1995 I did this, I replaced all of them for brand new, genuine.
Can a bonnet hood liner insulation be airbrushed?
Fleece vs aluminum which is best for the engine bay/bonnet, many prefer aluminum?
Confused help!
Hi Paul. If you have modifications under the bonnet and the engine is kicking out some decent heat, then the peel and stick heat shield if definitely the one for you 👍
@@carbuilders1 Cool thanks,will it have the same sound deadening properties compared to fleece.
In my mind fleece would be better?
Thanks for the video. Just installed the liner i got from the 4wd show in vic... by far the most satisfying thing to install. Impressed at how well it contours and sticks. It looks awesome. Any tips on how to remove excess adhesive i managed to get a some around the edge.
Hi James. Thank you for the feedback. Use Prep Sol wax and grease remover.
@@carbuilders1 awesome. Thanks guys keep up the good work
What if you don’t have the original insulation to trace? Predicament I’m in with a 1970 Mercury Cougar.
Making templates can be dangerous as it is hard to account for rises and falls in the surface which change the amount of material required (in the video we only used it to make a rough oversized guide). If you lay the sheet on the bonnet/hood first and allow it to be evenly oversided. Then reveal some of the backing on one of the edges of the bonnet and continue from there to stick it down. You will have extra over each side that you will then blade off (careful not to score the paint- as in video) 👍
Top Tip...Don't try and take the bonnet off by yourself......also some Dynamat under the insulation pad works well.....
Shout a mate a couple of beers for this one 👍 In other videos you can see we have place our deadening mats underneath. A win with the Defender is the bonnet angles all the way back to the windscreen so you can install without removing the bonnet.
@@carbuilders1 That's because the engine has to come out regularly. My Rangie was the same....
Need to do it with the hood installed on the car.
hi interesting ,i want to ask some technical detail that should be in the material used for this purpose, like what properties it should have
Hi Mahi. There are cheaper foams that replace the factory underbonnet however, like the manufacturers version, the foam ends up failing and flaking. This product is a textile material, which is more durable. As you can see from the video, we wanted to manufacture a product that looked factory pressed however was able to be applied to a universal bonnet. We want a durable product that could withstand a high pressure hose and was fire retardant. The material is also a dense needle punched fabric, which will help reduce heat transfer and filter sound waves.
thanks for reply can we use the black Blankets used by Army around the world, for the same purpose as it is fireproof and dence, asking for its thermostat properties, is this good or bad for bonnet, or depends on how we install under bonnet, to not to allow heat to tranfer to the layer with direct contact with bonnet, just a query on experimenting ideas!
@@MahiSingh-gt5sy Did u ever find this answer? I purchased a used vehicle lacking hood insulation
Just got mine, hope it's this easy to apply on my xr8 bonnet 😬
Good luck! Send through some photos on Instagram 👍
@@carbuilders1 will do 😬👍🏻
@@carbuilders1 made some mistakes and managed to get some plastic backing stuck under the matting, and scratched my paint with the scissors 😔, but I like how the material looks and sticks...
Will send pics to you guys when I can get the lighting sorted tomorrow
@@carbuilders1 where can I get mine?
car builders, would it be ok to first put a layer of some of your sound deadening pads, and then run this adhesive over the top? cheers
Hi Ryan. Yes, this is fine under the bonnet. You don't need to load it up, just add squares in open, single sheet panel sections and then put the Premium Under Bonnet over the top 👍
I can go with either a foam insulation pad or a fiberglass pad - do you have an opinion on which performs best ? MBZ use foam on $100K cars but I suppose that doesn't mean anything - my original was destroyed by deer mice as they liked the insulation material - do they like foam or FG ? thanks
Our premium under bonnet is a superior product as it isn't a foam but a needle punched polyster. Both will function similiarly, however the material is more durable and puncture resistant than foam.... also I think deer mice detest it 😆
True fit carpet
Make it ready to fit with clips
Don't have to do all this their moulded like the original one
They make it for most cars
Can those things be painted on?
I don’t understand? All you did was replace it. The original didn’t look like it was in bad shape. For some reason replacing an oem with your product helped how? Sound/ heat?
Hi Daniel. Yes, you right, that underbonnet pad was fine, we just used it as a model. You wouldn't do this because, as you have pointed out, it isn't necessary. These pads break down over time, 20 years etc and people find them hard or expensive to replace and this is when this product is used. They are also a durable-faced product so they have advantages there over many OEM versions. Here is an example where we used the original and the Premium Underbonnet product ua-cam.com/video/KhcPs7YhMeQ/v-deo.html
Is good for heat ?
“If you don’t get it right, it’s gonna be skewed, and you’re gonna get to the end and be pullin’ your hair out”. Damn - looks like it took you a little too long to learn that.
Sorry, I couldn’t resist. Seriously, great tips on this. I’ll be doing it soon on a Santa Fe.
I’ll get out of your hair now . . . well, you know what I mean.
😂🤙
Very nice job and great explanation!
I stumbled upon this video as I was looking to do the same to my Skoda Octavia MKIII 2017 facelift as I found it to be noise 2000+ rpm (diesel)...
Turns out the insulation Skoda put in place (with clips) is actually the culprit! Would removing it hurt my engine in any way?
And secondly, would adding insulation like you did provide noticeable improvements? Thanks!
Thank you.
Was the bonnet insulation rattling? Apart from adding some sound insulation, if you remove it you will expose the bonnet to greater heat and potentially paint fatigue. If the factory insulation is in good condition you may look to replace the existing clips as an easy fix. 👍
@@carbuilders1 Indeed, found your remark online too and installed the insulation again.
Currently have been looking to buy something like Dynamat Hoodliner, (they advise to apply Extreme first) but seems they only sell the hoodliner in US/UK. Do you have any ideas for alternatives?
What material did you use?
Hi BREDS. www.carbuilders.com.au/premium-under-bonnet We can ship this internationally. Send us an email for a quote on shipping sales@carbuilders.com.au 👍
did it make any difference over the stock part?
Hi Steveo. It will help however the customer choose this solution to retain the aesthetics of the orginal factory look.
It seems easier to flip the old one and use the new material on the backside and drill some holes the using the old front of the bonet hood insulator as template for the holes and then reinstall but with new bont material on the outside.
Hi Joshua. We used the factory pad as a template in a few other video installs. Check this one out. ua-cam.com/video/Ir7NqGcNqiY/v-deo.html 👍
Also my brother used spray on adhesive even though the back has adhesive material and a heat gun while I used the heat iron with sock on it.
Well done. Precise job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Could this be used in a rear wheel well or do you think it would come off?
I'm seriously considering this stuff for a roof liner replacement and door card re-trim in my defender.
Do you think it would be appropriate for that?
I can't find a video of your 4-way stretch auto carpet
Hi Tom. Have you seen this video. We used it in the doors ua-cam.com/video/xXpQJS187_w/v-deo.html
How heat resistant is this. Would it work in a hotter engine bay allocation
Hi Daniel. It is rated up to 200 degrees C however if you have extreme heat in the engine bay, close to the bonnet, we would recommend a peel and stick heat shield www.carbuilders.com.au/peel-stick-heat-shield 👍
Excellent. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Bill
It definitely would have been beneficial to know what material used. Other then that great how-video.
Thank you for the feed back Richard. You can find the product used here www.carbuilders.com.au/under-bonnet-insulation~10547
I felt it's like forever to end.
Insufficient method to address engine noise although its a critical Step 1 in reducing engine noise intrusion.
The most IMPORTANT area giving the BIGGEST reduction in engine noise intrusion (besides firewall) is the area/narrow gap behind your door hinges.
KIA and Hyundai hv become impressively quieter due to focus on this critical area. Look at the Hyundai Santa Fe..and you’ll see “something” there put by the manufacturers.
In contrast, look at the Merc A Class (noisy engine noise and loads of tyre noise). There is NOTHING there (when u open driver door and peep behind the door hinges) except a thin black plastic cover.
Look at the narrow area BEHIND your upper and lower door hinges. Thats where engine noise and tyre noise penetrate into the cabin. Its actually a hollow space that leads to the inside of the fender well cavity.
Remove the wheel well liner.
Stuff loads of waterproof, non fraying noise absorbent material into that empty area. Rolled up or folded up Thinsulate is best. In any non-Continental vehicles, treating this area produces a significantly impressive reduction in engine and tyre noise WITHOUT doing anything else.
JK Low interesting, I’ll try this on my car.
After 10 years when it deteriorates again, with the super strong adhesive, how the hell are we going to remove and replace it?
Its a hyundai, it wont last another 10 years, or at that point, it wont be worth enough to do such a job
It’s too small to fit the bonnet/hood on my 1967 C10 truck. But on the other hand, my front clip weighs as much as the whole car he put a under hood sticky cover. It would have to done in left & right half. Or if down under, right & left half!
Hi Dean. The sheet is 1.5 x 1m. It fits in our warehouse C10 '86 truck 👍
Is possible to reuse clips? (Mazda 6 2006)
I think I would have just traced the old one on to the new one ,but on the under part so no trace of tracing is shown., then trim as needed . But hay there are many ways to skin a cat.
Pond liner underlay with adhesive on the back.
Great job.
What was the main objective of the 15min long video???
1. To teach novices how to apply it?
2. Or to promote the efficacy of the material and treatment ?
yes
If I had a hood liner to trace I wouldn't be here looking for a solution to my problem:)
😆The original just provides an estimate of material so you're not playing with as much material. If you trace it verbatim you will fall short because of the valleys in bonnet, which will take more material. Good luck in finding your solution 👍
@@carbuilders1 Thanks, I was just being humorous😬 If I get into some money soon I'll revisit your product for sure👍
where to buy this
Hi Sarath. You can find this product here www.carbuilders.com.au/under-bonnet-insulation~10547 👍
Great!
Thank you Predrag
Felt ?
Hi Sol Star. This looks felt-like however it is a polyster fibre 👍
now I want one :/
$230 for that sheet!
Hi Jason. Yes. We do have a cheap foam version, however there isn't anything as durable and provides that manufacturer's finish look like this product.
Would have been an okay idea if it wasn't such a rip off for 1.5 sqM at $230 lol
Hi N. The material of this product is expensive and manufactured in USA. You could get a foam version for half this cost 👍
كيف اطلب هذا المنتج ، ويوصل الئ السعوديه
Whoa overpriced! Im sure it didnt even cost $10 to manufacture 1 sheet. My factory oem is half the price...and i dont even have to remove my hood to install.