You perfectly showed with the cymbal, that a small patch on a large surface area is enough to stop waves in a material aka sound. So there is absolutely no need to cover your whole floor with sound deadening material....!
Hi PJ. You're right. Moderate amounts of deadener make a significant difference. Once the middle of a panel has been covered, the additional deadener covering the panel has diminshing results. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 Is it possible to take aftermarket double glazed side windows from more expensive vehicles and cutting them to fit in cheaper cars (like the VW golf for instance).
Love the fact that you put t on the cymbal as an example. A few of us did this to the underside of them in our music class at school, needless to say, the band were rather concerned before they looked underneath
Very well stated and presented. Most newer vehicles do not have an issue with the single most annoying source of noise in a vehicle, engine noise coming from sheetmetal openings. If you are doing an older vehicle blocking airborne noise can be tricky but the tiniest of holes will tank an otherwise good installation of sound deadening material.
What an EXCELLENT description of the different types of materials. This helps me out a ton as I'm working on dealing with some resonance in my MX-5 this week. Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Same, I am here to learn and work on sound and heatproffing better my MX-5. Trying to do it with the least weight adding possible with the biggest return on sound and heat proofing
@@Moriggia Hi. Good and you? I haven't done this. It requires quite some free time that I don't have yet, or at least not desiring to spend it on my Miata. I have a few other things to install it plus repairing a scooter and I have had 0 rush on doing any of that. I work remotely and have been using my car only about one day a week in the past 10 mo. But if I happen to do this, changing the tube from the intake before the separator seems to help with engine noise (not removing the duct for the noise but changing the big section for a different material that is harder and transmits less outside undesired noise), plus sound proofing maybe mainly on top of the back wheels is something I will definitely do, just not sure when. I would like to heat proof the doors and the whole cabin wherever possible but I haven't found what to use that isn't heavy, is durable, not that costly, and is not a disaster/big problem to install as the weather in south FL is definitely one to consider. I installed window tinting in the front windshield, the clearest one one found and a good quality one $150 in Miami, and it made a big difference in temperature and glare (more comfortable driving) and no issues driving at night. Also, no issues with police as it doesn't even appear it has window tint in the windshield. My favorite simple mod so far.
I lined the interior walls and door of my clothes dryer while I was replacing the blower/fan. Now it's better than any dryer I've ever used! Did the same thing on a noisy steel drafting table too.
@@willfinney6598 Thanks! Similarly, I filled my 3-ton floor jack handle with spray foam. No more clanky handle!😀 AH... and maybe I'll put some sound deadening on my 4-way lug wrench... Just though of that!
Not a bad time to replace the bearing axle for the dryer drum while it's all apart. No more squeaking! Much easier to do than the blower in my opinion. (if your blower wheel is stuck on)
Great video explaining the basics! My first car that I put sound deadener in was a 99 grandam gt 2 door. 100% coverage. It dropped decibels readings up to 15db. It was a massive improvement to the cabin quality. I spent a lot of money on it too, but it was worth it cause I had the car 10 years. Now the cars I buy don't really need it to be honest. If I were to spend that amount of money again on material the diminished returns wouldn't justify the cost. My Acura TL is already quiet for the type of driving I do now. Plus I spend good money on tires and it shows. Finding a quality tire made a world difference in the cabin.
Its not that easy. You would have to average HUNDREDS of miles over the same roads in the same conditions (traffic/temps/weather/etc) and then do it again with the treatments in place. I know. I've tried. Ive also tested vibration damping products in a controlled envinronment. While I dont agree 100% with everything here, this is one of the most accurate descriptions on youtube on how to fully treat a vehicle.
People have done it. Insulation, depending on the vehicle, is good for between 5-20dB of sound reduction. Really dependent on vehicle and how much you use.
@@gymkhanadog Taking short measurements before and after are misleading. Too many variables. Just a difference in temp changes air density and therefore noise levels.
@@chrispurdue5762 I'm not looking to argue, but saying that subjective testing, even short term, is worthless is also misleading... We aren't talking about putting a used vehicle in an anechoic and doing before and after measurements. That would actually be good science. We're talking about subjective testing in the real world. Which is why I said 5-20, which is a pretty big sound range. The difference of 5 dB could mean damaged hearing or just a very uncomfortably loud sound. Remember, sound is measured in a base 10 log unit. Factor of 10 to make it easier.
@@gymkhanadog I can agree with most of that. I simply feel its important to make sure people understand that these tests need to be done in as controlled of a manor as possible before making claims. Having worked on objectively testing vehicle sound treatments for the last 8 years, ive fought for the entire time to discredit claims that products such as peel n seal are equivalent to products like Dynamat based on other peoples subjective "knock" tests, etc.
I've watched this and truly appreciate the explanation. I will order from them, they have earned my business and I had a helpful email as well. Nice, quality people
When going over bumps there is more resonating thump from the back, will soundproofing the trunk and spare tire space help reduce that noise that sounds like bass speaker.
I appreciate how you showed the dampening on the cymbal. Also, about how a sound curtain behind seats is enough, instead of everywhere. That was a great video, very clear and easy to see how it all works together. Thanks.
I was a courier and once had to deliver bank bags that were vinyl and cloth in a Sentra. I had 300 pounds of sound deadening for a half hour - it was amazingly quiet, then back to "noisy". Try it yourself : pack your floorboards and trunk with towels and clothes about a foot deep and go for a ride.
Hi Peter. The effect was two-fold. You stopped vibration in the panels by adding weight and you also created a sound blanket for externally generated noise. 👍
Also very reasonable prices and finally some mass loaded vinyl carpet underlay replacements you guys really have covered all areas of Sound treatment and turning a tin can into a luxury feeling vehicle super impressed I see a comment from five years ago well bugger me no one told me lol although I did find some cool stuff at Jaycar that was also reasonably price and came in rolls like a poster which is far better than saying stinger roadkill sound treatment in a flat box where it's all stuck together. Wish I had known about this ages ago lol
Concrete works best hehe.... I like your two layer foam and mass loaded vinyl. Using all three..deadener, foam and vinyl makes a big difference especially in boot floor and under rear seat.
I'm using Butyl + Sound Bar(MLV) + Felt ..each for different purpose, Butyl to reduce vibrations, Sound Bar to block the sound and Felt to absorb sound :D
EvroNetwork That is the way to go. I dynamatted a car and was dissapointed in the results so I used foam as well...and it still wasnt good enough...only when I added Mass loaded Vinyl did I finally get a quiet car..I was driving over 1000kms per week on rough asphalt...you know when your car is well sound proofed when you hear that Ssshhhh sound at high speed....
When I close my driver's door, strangely, sounds like a hollow tin can, but the other doors sound fine when I close it. I seriously need to add this to my car, sometimes its small things like this that make me feel my car is complete if that makes sense. The noisiest thing in my car is the engine, even with new engine mounts, I hope when I buy this I will get a huge noise level improvement, and the insulation as an added bonus.
Hi Tonnie. We aren't currently in that part of the world, we have been delayed by covid but hopefully in Europe next year. We do ship from Australia. If you want to email sales@carbuilders.com.au what you are after with all of your shipping details we can send you a quote.
Hi Travis. If heat is the greater issue, you can use heat shields or peel and stick peel shields to dramatically reduce heat within the car with very little additional weight.
Nice explaining then i was outside took my interior apart and now need a big welder some metal then sound deadning lol thats how it is to have an old jeep cherokee from 95
I've met Aussies here in the USA. It's kind of like meeting cousins, especially if they're from the rural parts. You guys are big on self-reliance, you got killer critters (I wish we had Kangaroos!), and like US you got started by running afoul of the English authorities!
that cymbal demonstration shows really well how little of the vibration deadener you need for vibrations. now i assume you still want good coverage for stuff like blocking your exhaust because even though its vibration deadener it is also a sound deadener with butyl rubber
Great stuff Trying to design insulation to suit a 25 yr old Civic track car that I still want insulated well enough to take the missus for a fast, not so noisy/drone weekend blast. Should I just give you a call? (I’m in Oz)
Thank you Florin. The weight really depends on where you are going to cover and what stage 2 product (foam or vinyl weigh significantly different). The Sound Deadener is 6.5kg per box and you need two for the floor, one box for the doors and less than one for the roof. It would need two boxes of Acoustic Liner as underlay, it weighs less than 4kg in total. If you wanted the premium underlay (Mass Noise Liner Lite), you would also need two sheets and they weigh 7kg each. The second stage on the room is Insul layer and this is a foam (1.5kg). Feel free to contact us (03 8777 0960) to chat further about your install 👍
You should consider providing links to where we can purchase the product and set it up as an affiliate so You get a little kick back for the referral. Great info, I had no idea there is even this many options.
Great video mate, just wanted to clarify if improved stereo sound is covered in general sound deadening or would you look at something specific for that purpose?
Hi Steve. All of this sound deadening is going to stop speaker panel vibration and improve stereo quality. Car audio guys will skin both the outer and inner doors if there are speakers in them to avoid the rear sound waves cancelling out with the front sound waves. It will also make the door act as a speaker enclosure, maximising sound pressure 👍
@@carbuilders1 hello, what about speaker installations in the footwell? Would the material get installed behind them? I am thinking of noise that may come from the front wheel wells. At some point, I am going to get a pair of speakers, that are built into a custom enclosure requiring no alteration to the interior panels. A small subwoofer will go under the carpeted panel behind the two bucket seats. I have other questions and will connect later. Thanks
Hello! I wish to insulate an engine and transmission noise in a tractor cab. It is a cab that is separated from a gearbox and placed on rubber mounts, I have no major issues with vibrations, only noise. The engine is big 7.7L and the muffler is not quite made from the factory to muffle well. The front gap between the console and engine has some insulation in the form of aluminum and spongy material, maybe 2mm thick, but it seems it is not enough. I don't have any isolation on the wheel arches, just a thin fake leather layer. There is a thick rubber on a floor, but there are some gaps under. Should I insulate the roof? It has the plastic top, probably hollow, and I noticed a noise difference when I open and close sun roof. I wish to know what materials to use in what places, should I take extra rubber strips to place around the doors and windows, and will it make a significant difference?
I liked the mention of running the MLV/CCF treatment on the rear seat backs since that was the method I plan to do in my car, to save weight and material. However, I was wondering, with a subwoofer in the trunk would this affect the low frequency bass coming into the cabin? I have 1 10" subwoofer in an Integra, aimed at the rear glass, and the removeable rear deck shelf will likely not be treated. If no one has an answer for me, I'll try out both ways in the coming week starting with treating the seat backs and follow up if I remember! My main goal is to kill road noise, something the Integra is plagued by being a cheaper 90's vehicle.
Hi Tom, if you had a sedan with a closed off trunk/boot and you lined the back of the back seat with MLV it would reduce the amount of bass coming through to the cabin. Because you have a hatch, the bass will be reflecting off the back window/hatch and going back to the cabin. Your removable parcel shelf panel will be the largest factor that will be blocking the bass from coming through. If you want to reduce road noise we would recommend applying MLV or Insulayer to your trunk floor, wheel arches and trunk side walls. 👍
Hi I am looking for what product would work best on my small 9.9 boat engine cowling to stop engine noise the Cowl is fiberglass would you think the butyl is necessary or just a deadening foam as its the reverse of a car as i am trying to keep the sound in. Thank you
What would be the best product for noise reduction front my transmission? I need to put something under the boot of my shift stick. Mass noise reduction liner + something else maybe?
Hi Doobiez. The mass loaded vinyl range is best. The next thing to work out is how much tolerance or space you have under the factory carpet or vinyl. You may only be able to use a 2mm mass loaded vinyl or the thicker (8mm or 13mm) versions that have a closed cell backing foam www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/mass-loaded-vinyl/ 👍
I going to have the headliner installed in my old 95 Dodge ram 2500 4x4..so what do you recommend for heat and noise . I don't want the materal coming loose or causing problems. Thanks
@@carbuilders1 I'm actually serious lol. I think it's usually classified as sound absorbing cotton that is to be applied inside pillars and inside door assemblies
you probably won't see this but I am planning on reducing the car and street noise in my '95 Miatas cabin. I was wondering how much sound deadening you would recommend, since the car is relatively light and I wanna keep it that way, so the premium 2nd stage material is out of question. Should i just cover the entire floor with the first two materials?
Been looking everywhere for a video like this. Would you say that (other than doors) most of the sound comes from the roof or the floors? Don't think I have the budget for all 4 doors, trunk, and floor + roof, so i'll probably have to choose between one of the latter two.
I've got Vauxhall/Opel Mokka (Buick Encore). I get that cost/weight cutting made this car an empty tin with thin metal all-around. Do you think that a few patches of this rubber sheet would help with overall road noise (and vibration throughout the thin sheets of steel around)?
Hi Mieczyslaw. Yes, you will achieve results by adding Stage 1 pads to single sheet metal panels and the Stage 2 Foams or Mass Loaded Vinyls will act to reduce external road noise. Good luck
Hello. I'd like to use the black sound deadener directly above and around my mufflers under the car, to reduce the noise entering in the boot. I understand this is an internal liner, but is it possible to use externally?
Hi Duane. As you have stated, this product is designed for interior use and we would recommend using it on the inside rather than outside. An issue underneath the car might also be the surface being dirty and greasy. If you are able to clean the exterior surface thoroughly (test with masking tape once clean- if that sticks and deadener will) then it can be placed in the area.
just saw this video when I'm researching to sound dampening on my car I got a question about the 2nd stage vinyl foam I saw different method of installing the foam , the method in this video show foam down vinyl up drop in method But in some other video, they do the opposite site way instead , so even stick the vinyl face to the second layer and made the 3rd layer foam facing the cabin instea So which is more functional in terms of reducing noice from out side Bcoz in still thinking whether to get the 3rd foam layer or butyl and 2nd layer foam are enough I saw that butyl alone eliminated alot of high pitch noise, but will it made the whole car low tone drony
Great channal. I subscribed becsuse I want learn hove soundproof car, pipes i house. My question is how much of sound deading material is at least required to be safe of vibration? 25, 50, 75, 100% of metal plate?!? usually find answerin a range 50-75%.
Thank you Josip. 👍 I think you are right with your percentage. People have different ratios that they use to coverage surfaces. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing additions to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 Thank you on answer. I want soundproof car from vibration and reduce tyre noise (I do no metter for loud music). Mostly I hearing noise from trunk in my Ford Focus 2010. I hope that project will be succesfull :) ps just yesterday soundproof pipes with armaflex 13mm, a lot less noise.
They look like great products! Can you get the 1st. (rubber) layer off if you choose to later? Also, is there ever a chance of water getting under it and eventually rusting the metal under it? Just making sure because I would be putting this on my 34 year old Dodge D150 truck with only 26 thousand original miles on it. It's like new so I am extremely careful what I do to it. The reason for my concern is the aftermarket rustproofing that is installed the most in the northern part of the country is a "rubberized" coating that is sprayed into the doors and the undercarriage and in time it pulls back enough to let in water and salt and the moisture stays there and just rots everything right through! I have seen frames of new trucks so rotten after less than 10 years old because of this issue that they are totalled!
Hi thoms_here I understand your concern. Yes, you can remove the butyl rubber once applied. It takes some elbow grease but can be done. We replace it once a year in our demonstration half car that we take to shows (to freshen up the display as it get constantly touched and rubbed). Unlike the old bitumen deadener, which would crack and allow moisture underneath it butyl doesn't harden and actually becomes tackier in warmer weather. Butyl is used in plumbing applications and you can see in another video we did that it creates a water proof barrier even when in a vertical application. ua-cam.com/video/tNnmyFO8lcw/v-deo.html Good luck with the Dodge, sound like a nice ride 😎👍
Does your foam product have a mold inhibitor like some of your competitors? I don't see that listed on the website. It's nice that there's a closed-cell topper, but unless you intend to blanket your entire vehicle and seal every little seam and joint, moisture will still get down into the open-cell underlayment and mold. It may not rot the material like jute, but it will mold. What happens if you have a leak inside the vehicle? What happens if you spill a realistic amount of drink, as in, an entire cup of it (12-24oz)? It's going to soak through your carpet and the first seam in the insulation it it finds it's going to seep down through capillary action. Just because it isn't jute doesn't mean it can't or won't mold. This is still a very real concern for modern insulation.
Hi gymkhanadog. If moisture and mould is a concern/issue, we advise underlay's that are totally closed cell such as www.carbuilders.com.au/water-proof-carpet-underlay-stage-2~728
Hey Rockin Sergio. Yes, it is important to inspect and treat rust before applying to panels. Once the sound deadening is laid they create a water proof barrier and protection from rust.
I am converting a MB Sprinter van to a camper. The walls and ceilings seem to already have some dampening material from the factory. Should the vibration dampening mats you mention be applied as well, or is this redundant?
Hi Mike. The factory Stage 1 deadening will be doing something, however the manufacturer will often put minimal amounts in an effort to save costs. You can add to this. These vans don't have any Stage 2 materials which will need to be added if you are chasing reducing sound and heat.
No, good question. The butyl facing the metal on the stage 1 sound deadening mats is water proof. We have a video where we pour liquid into a pocket of sound deadener to illustrate this. This type of material is used in plumbing applications to create water proof seals. It is important that you rust-treat the surface before applying the mats and that you roll the mats down without leaving air pockets. The sound deadener will act as a rust barrier. Around the mats you may still want to treat the metal with an anti-rust wax. Please free to call us to discuss further 03 8777 0960 👍
Oh man, now I regret coating most of the front door area in the butyl mat, the roof I have zero regrets for, since I'd rather have too much "just in case", but the doors are unnecessarily heavy now, when just couple of pieces would have probably done the trick, considering the butyl mat is just there to reduce resonance... I picked up on that when doing the trunk, placing small pieces strategically instead of covering the whole area, but at that point most of the car has already been done.
HEY BRO, do you have any experience with NISSAN 330/350/370 Zs? How much costs should it take to quiet down the rearend of 350/370 Z significantly so it wouldnt be a deciding factor like it was for me i used to really like them until i testdrove them back to back with a mercedes & G37. the 370Z was by far the coolest/fastest/Best Handling but it sounded like a truck with empty bed driving down a gravel road compared to other cars and i ended up getting an Altima 3.5 that i put a bigger swaybar and strut tower brace and it handled GREAT after that.
Quick question, I've installed the foil close cell foam type mat in my car and have been told by someone that the foil is going to cause rust from condensation build up. I quote... "I only have concerns about water condensation underneath it I've pulled loads of that stuff off cars and there's always rust on the panel joints" Is This true in your knowledge?
I have a question about which exeact product to use in my case. So i have removed the sound deadening of my gear selector since i replaced it for a bigger one but the oem one does no fit. What do you recommend?
Hi Kool Range. The Sound Deadener? The butyl will get tackier in extreme temps. It won't peel off but in vertical positions such as door skins we like border it with our aluminium foil tape to ensure their is no chance of slip. www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-foil-tape
@@cameronbeyer7687 try having a helmholtz resonator installed to cut back on drone, and not sure what summer tires comes stock in your area but replacing them will also cut back on road noise.
@@boldstar69 I actually have 4 resonators haha, but Dunlops come stock. Nah I'll take the added noise for improved handling. I currently have blizzaks on for the winter, and holy road noise that's fucking insane haha
Can we use the waterproof butyl tape which has butyl rubber on one side and an aluminum foil on the other? It is 1 mm thick. Hardly at least will it reduce the vibrations?
I use about a foot of thin weather-stripping to deaden the down the 'teng' sound of my microwave (when shutting the door). Right in the middle It helped a bit. So, I'd say yes, a bit.
You perfectly showed with the cymbal, that a small patch on a large surface area is enough to stop waves in a material aka sound. So there is absolutely no need to cover your whole floor with sound deadening material....!
Hi PJ. You're right. Moderate amounts of deadener make a significant difference. Once the middle of a panel has been covered, the additional deadener covering the panel has diminshing results. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 And if you want better insulation as well as sound deadening (like me), then covering everything makes more sense, right? 🤔
@@carbuilders1 Is it possible to take aftermarket double glazed side windows from more expensive vehicles and cutting them to fit in cheaper cars (like the VW golf for instance).
@@BoMwarriorVlogI found it cheaper to use minimal sound deadening sheets and then a roll of 6mm dodo insulation.
@@g0rdyb1ker Thank you!! 😃 Is "Dodo insulation" a specific brand?
Love the fact that you put t on the cymbal as an example. A few of us did this to the underside of them in our music class at school, needless to say, the band were rather concerned before they looked underneath
😆👍
Glad people are making videos explaining this. It's so annoying when I'm looking for sound insulation and everyone just shows me butyl deadener lol
Thanks mate. Yes, that is just one component. Good luck with your project.
Very well stated and presented. Most newer vehicles do not have an issue with the single most annoying source of noise in a vehicle, engine noise coming from sheetmetal openings. If you are doing an older vehicle blocking airborne noise can be tricky but the tiniest of holes will tank an otherwise good installation of sound deadening material.
Great explanation. Teaching and sharing information (not emotions) was what the internet was originally created for.
Thank you for the feedback 😎👍
Not really. but ok?
I thought after porn went from beta-max, VHS, DVD, that the internet was the next medium for porn.
@Captain Buff The Third Sorry dude, but those feelings are nonsense. Logic, reason and understanding are the real answers.
@Captain Buff The Third You're not understanding. Logic, reason and basic events are all that need to be communicated. Beyond that is manipulation.
What an EXCELLENT description of the different types of materials. This helps me out a ton as I'm working on dealing with some resonance in my MX-5 this week.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Bedline it inner floor and bottom...
Stone chip proof and its sealed from elements... loose the carpet... is the car a house from 1970?
@@octaneartllc If you don't have carpet, what would you have instead?
Same, I am here to learn and work on sound and heatproffing better my MX-5. Trying to do it with the least weight adding possible with the biggest return on sound and heat proofing
@@89andresp how is going? How much weight did you add? Is it worth? Thank you 😁
@@Moriggia Hi. Good and you? I haven't done this. It requires quite some free time that I don't have yet, or at least not desiring to spend it on my Miata. I have a few other things to install it plus repairing a scooter and I have had 0 rush on doing any of that. I work remotely and have been using my car only about one day a week in the past 10 mo. But if I happen to do this, changing the tube from the intake before the separator seems to help with engine noise (not removing the duct for the noise but changing the big section for a different material that is harder and transmits less outside undesired noise), plus sound proofing maybe mainly on top of the back wheels is something I will definitely do, just not sure when. I would like to heat proof the doors and the whole cabin wherever possible but I haven't found what to use that isn't heavy, is durable, not that costly, and is not a disaster/big problem to install as the weather in south FL is definitely one to consider. I installed window tinting in the front windshield, the clearest one one found and a good quality one $150 in Miami, and it made a big difference in temperature and glare (more comfortable driving) and no issues driving at night. Also, no issues with police as it doesn't even appear it has window tint in the windshield. My favorite simple mod so far.
Wow. I was pretty skeptical of not needing 100% coverage, but I'm a believer after watching this.
Don't forget to check and change door seals on older cars. That includes window seals
Thank you so much. What a great introduction! Now, to pick my deadener...
Thank you Haylee 😎👍
I lined the interior walls and door of my clothes dryer while I was replacing the blower/fan. Now it's better than any dryer I've ever used! Did the same thing on a noisy steel drafting table too.
😆 nice work 👍
That is genius!
@@willfinney6598 Thanks! Similarly, I filled my 3-ton floor jack handle with spray foam. No more clanky handle!😀 AH... and maybe I'll put some sound deadening on my 4-way lug wrench... Just though of that!
Not a bad time to replace the bearing axle for the dryer drum while it's all apart. No more squeaking! Much easier to do than the blower in my opinion. (if your blower wheel is stuck on)
I never knew Johnny Sins has an automotive sound fetish
That man is truly an inspiration to everyone. A firefighter, doctor, mechanic and a severe cancer survivor on top of that.
Great video explaining the basics!
My first car that I put sound deadener in was a 99 grandam gt 2 door. 100% coverage. It dropped decibels readings up to 15db. It was a massive improvement to the cabin quality. I spent a lot of money on it too, but it was worth it cause I had the car 10 years. Now the cars I buy don't really need it to be honest. If I were to spend that amount of money again on material the diminished returns wouldn't justify the cost. My Acura TL is already quiet for the type of driving I do now. Plus I spend good money on tires and it shows. Finding a quality tire made a world difference in the cabin.
yes tyres do matters.. specially youkohama advan db
The problem is good tyres especially Performance tyres are loud.
I use 10mm cork pannel on my van... works ok, great for sleeping inside
How about just driving the car and taking decibel measurements before and after applying the insulation material?
Its not that easy. You would have to average HUNDREDS of miles over the same roads in the same conditions (traffic/temps/weather/etc) and then do it again with the treatments in place. I know. I've tried. Ive also tested vibration damping products in a controlled envinronment. While I dont agree 100% with everything here, this is one of the most accurate descriptions on youtube on how to fully treat a vehicle.
People have done it. Insulation, depending on the vehicle, is good for between 5-20dB of sound reduction. Really dependent on vehicle and how much you use.
@@gymkhanadog Taking short measurements before and after are misleading. Too many variables. Just a difference in temp changes air density and therefore noise levels.
@@chrispurdue5762 I'm not looking to argue, but saying that subjective testing, even short term, is worthless is also misleading... We aren't talking about putting a used vehicle in an anechoic and doing before and after measurements. That would actually be good science. We're talking about subjective testing in the real world. Which is why I said 5-20, which is a pretty big sound range. The difference of 5 dB could mean damaged hearing or just a very uncomfortably loud sound. Remember, sound is measured in a base 10 log unit. Factor of 10 to make it easier.
@@gymkhanadog I can agree with most of that. I simply feel its important to make sure people understand that these tests need to be done in as controlled of a manor as possible before making claims. Having worked on objectively testing vehicle sound treatments for the last 8 years, ive fought for the entire time to discredit claims that products such as peel n seal are equivalent to products like Dynamat based on other peoples subjective "knock" tests, etc.
So useful I watched it twice. Thanks!
Great demo on the cymbal! That stuff is the real deal.
I've watched this and truly appreciate the explanation. I will order from them, they have earned my business and I had a helpful email as well. Nice, quality people
Thank you so much! Good luck with the install 👍
When going over bumps there is more resonating thump from the back, will soundproofing the trunk and spare tire space help reduce that noise that sounds like bass speaker.
are you jonny sins
Asking the real questions xD
😂
The guy with very many careers professionally 😂😂😂
Lmaooooooooooooo
😂😂😂
I appreciate how you showed the dampening on the cymbal. Also, about how a sound curtain behind seats is enough, instead of everywhere. That was a great video, very clear and easy to see how it all works together. Thanks.
Thank you for the positive feedback 🤙
Thanks for posting. Effective and descriptive
This was very informative for my research for my Nova. Thank you!
Thanks for the feedback Autofaze 👍
Best video on the subject. Thank you very much.
Thank you Hung Pham 😎👍
I was a courier and once had to deliver bank bags that were vinyl and cloth in a Sentra. I had 300 pounds of sound deadening for a half hour - it was amazingly quiet, then back to "noisy".
Try it yourself : pack your floorboards and trunk with towels and clothes about a foot deep and go for a ride.
Hi Peter. The effect was two-fold. You stopped vibration in the panels by adding weight and you also created a sound blanket for externally generated noise. 👍
Great video, just what I was looking for.
Thanks DJ. Good luck with your project.
Fantastic information. Really well explained
Thanks for the feedback Paul 👍
Also very reasonable prices and finally some mass loaded vinyl carpet underlay replacements you guys really have covered all areas of Sound treatment and turning a tin can into a luxury feeling vehicle super impressed I see a comment from five years ago well bugger me no one told me lol although I did find some cool stuff at Jaycar that was also reasonably price and came in rolls like a poster which is far better than saying stinger roadkill sound treatment in a flat box where it's all stuck together. Wish I had known about this ages ago lol
lookin for a video like this for a long time especially on what to do to get rid of heat comin into the car
Hi firefox01 Glad that you have found the information you have been looking for here 😎👍
Concrete works best hehe.... I like your two layer foam and mass loaded vinyl. Using all three..deadener, foam and vinyl makes a big difference especially in boot floor and under rear seat.
I'm using Butyl + Sound Bar(MLV) + Felt ..each for different purpose, Butyl to reduce vibrations, Sound Bar to block the sound and Felt to absorb sound :D
EvroNetwork That is the way to go. I dynamatted a car and was dissapointed in the results so I used foam as well...and it still wasnt good enough...only when I added Mass loaded Vinyl did I finally get a quiet car..I was driving over 1000kms per week on rough asphalt...you know when your car is well sound proofed when you hear that Ssshhhh sound at high speed....
When I close my driver's door, strangely, sounds like a hollow tin can, but the other doors sound fine when I close it. I seriously need to add this to my car, sometimes its small things like this that make me feel my car is complete if that makes sense.
The noisiest thing in my car is the engine, even with new engine mounts, I hope when I buy this I will get a huge noise level improvement, and the insulation as an added bonus.
Great presentation, thank you the help. 5.9 Cummins with 5 inch exhaust, lot of noise and heat. This helped me alot.
Thanks for the feedback Kody and good luck with the project.
@@carbuilders1 thank you!
A great video! What about a video on common areas to insulate. Spare wheel wheels, under seats, wheel arches etc etc?
Hello, great explenation. Sorry mayby the question is asked already. But how or were can i buy these products in my country Holland?
Hi Tonnie. We aren't currently in that part of the world, we have been delayed by covid but hopefully in Europe next year. We do ship from Australia. If you want to email sales@carbuilders.com.au what you are after with all of your shipping details we can send you a quote.
Using the symbol as a demo is brilliant
OMG so glad I found you guys!! You have a new subscriber! :D
Welcome aboard!
I'm redoing a NA Miata. Heat and sound deadening is a must. Hopefully it won't add to much weight.
Hi Travis. If heat is the greater issue, you can use heat shields or peel and stick peel shields to dramatically reduce heat within the car with very little additional weight.
@@carbuilders1 nice thanks
Nice explaining then i was outside took my interior apart and now need a big welder some metal then sound deadning lol thats how it is to have an old jeep cherokee from 95
Brilliant explanation of the importance of understanding the science of insulation and moisture
Ideal products for campervan conversation
Thank you for the positive feedback Mohammed 👍
I've met Aussies here in the USA. It's kind of like meeting cousins, especially if they're from the rural parts.
You guys are big on self-reliance, you got killer critters (I wish we had Kangaroos!), and like US you got started by running afoul of the English authorities!
😆🤙
that cymbal demonstration shows really well how little of the vibration deadener you need for vibrations. now i assume you still want good coverage for stuff like blocking your exhaust because even though its vibration deadener it is also a sound deadener with butyl rubber
Very good explanation!
Thank you Norbert!
Thanks. I enjoyed this video and learnt something.
Glad to hear it! 👍
Great video, very thorough explanations and very knowledgeable
Thank you Barbara 😎👍
thanks for the clear straightforward information.
You're welcome!
Great informative video - thanks for taking the time!
Thank you Peter. Much appreciated 👍
Nice overview, thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching! 🤙
Hi thete,
I can not see the "premium carpet underlay" that you presentind as third product on this video , in your website.....
Great stuff
Trying to design insulation to suit a 25 yr old Civic track car that I still want insulated well enough to take the missus for a fast, not so noisy/drone weekend blast.
Should I just give you a call? (I’m in Oz)
Hi mate. Yes, definitely give us a call (03 8777 0960) and we can provide some detailed advice on the Civic.👍
Very informative! How much weight is added for a 4 door sedan?
Thank you Florin. The weight really depends on where you are going to cover and what stage 2 product (foam or vinyl weigh significantly different). The Sound Deadener is 6.5kg per box and you need two for the floor, one box for the doors and less than one for the roof. It would need two boxes of Acoustic Liner as underlay, it weighs less than 4kg in total. If you wanted the premium underlay (Mass Noise Liner Lite), you would also need two sheets and they weigh 7kg each. The second stage on the room is Insul layer and this is a foam (1.5kg). Feel free to contact us (03 8777 0960) to chat further about your install 👍
You should consider providing links to where we can purchase the product and set it up as an affiliate so You get a little kick back for the referral. Great info, I had no idea there is even this many options.
Thanks Alex 👍
Great video mate, just wanted to clarify if improved stereo sound is covered in general sound deadening or would you look at something specific for that purpose?
Hi Steve. All of this sound deadening is going to stop speaker panel vibration and improve stereo quality. Car audio guys will skin both the outer and inner doors if there are speakers in them to avoid the rear sound waves cancelling out with the front sound waves. It will also make the door act as a speaker enclosure, maximising sound pressure 👍
@@carbuilders1 hello, what about speaker installations in the footwell? Would the material get installed behind them? I am thinking of noise that may come from the front wheel wells. At some point, I am going to get a pair of speakers, that are built into a custom enclosure requiring no alteration to the interior panels. A small subwoofer will go under the carpeted panel behind the two bucket seats. I have other questions and will connect later. Thanks
Hello! I wish to insulate an engine and transmission noise in a tractor cab. It is a cab that is separated from a gearbox and placed on rubber mounts, I have no major issues with vibrations, only noise. The engine is big 7.7L and the muffler is not quite made from the factory to muffle well.
The front gap between the console and engine has some insulation in the form of aluminum and spongy material, maybe 2mm thick, but it seems it is not enough. I don't have any isolation on the wheel arches, just a thin fake leather layer. There is a thick rubber on a floor, but there are some gaps under. Should I insulate the roof? It has the plastic top, probably hollow, and I noticed a noise difference when I open and close sun roof.
I wish to know what materials to use in what places, should I take extra rubber strips to place around the doors and windows, and will it make a significant difference?
Great explanation man. I Will do this way in my Xterra. Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you! Good luck with your project 😎🤙
If a small section kills the resonance noise, could you just put small sections throughout and then use foam for outside noise?
fascinating, but how do you do this effectively on your car that is already assembled?
example the 2023 KIA NERO ev:
Dooood thanks! 🙏 blessing for the information.
Glad to see you're not covering every damn inch which is unnecessary. I swear videos that are made showing that are just so more product can be sold.
You're right.
I liked the mention of running the MLV/CCF treatment on the rear seat backs since that was the method I plan to do in my car, to save weight and material. However, I was wondering, with a subwoofer in the trunk would this affect the low frequency bass coming into the cabin? I have 1 10" subwoofer in an Integra, aimed at the rear glass, and the removeable rear deck shelf will likely not be treated. If no one has an answer for me, I'll try out both ways in the coming week starting with treating the seat backs and follow up if I remember! My main goal is to kill road noise, something the Integra is plagued by being a cheaper 90's vehicle.
Hi Tom, if you had a sedan with a closed off trunk/boot and you lined the back of the back seat with MLV it would reduce the amount of bass coming through to the cabin. Because you have a hatch, the bass will be reflecting off the back window/hatch and going back to the cabin. Your removable parcel shelf panel will be the largest factor that will be blocking the bass from coming through. If you want to reduce road noise we would recommend applying MLV or Insulayer to your trunk floor, wheel arches and trunk side walls. 👍
Thank you for breaking this down to make sense to me. Excellent review...
Thank you John 👍Good luck with your project.
Hi I am looking for what product would work best on my small 9.9 boat engine cowling to stop engine noise the Cowl is fiberglass would you think the butyl is necessary or just a deadening foam as its the reverse of a car as i am trying to keep the sound in. Thank you
What would be the best product for noise reduction front my transmission? I need to put something under the boot of my shift stick. Mass noise reduction liner + something else maybe?
Hi Doobiez. The mass loaded vinyl range is best. The next thing to work out is how much tolerance or space you have under the factory carpet or vinyl. You may only be able to use a 2mm mass loaded vinyl or the thicker (8mm or 13mm) versions that have a closed cell backing foam www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/mass-loaded-vinyl/ 👍
Great explanation.. love from india! Thank you🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Should have a link to your shop mate
Thanks mate. I will add.www.carbuilders.com.au/
I going to have the headliner installed in my old 95 Dodge ram 2500 4x4..so what do you recommend for heat and noise . I don't want the materal coming loose or causing problems. Thanks
What about cotton sheets?
😆
@@carbuilders1 I'm actually serious lol. I think it's usually classified as sound absorbing cotton that is to be applied inside pillars and inside door assemblies
yes question.. where's the link to buy this stuff?
Sorry, we are starting to put links in now. You can find all these products on www.carbuilders.com.au 🤙
Great straight forward explanation ,, ! Thanxs central Florida.....
Thank you Jim 😎👍
Nicely explained 👍
you probably won't see this but I am planning on reducing the car and street noise in my '95 Miatas cabin. I was wondering how much sound deadening you would recommend, since the car is relatively light and I wanna keep it that way, so the premium 2nd stage material is out of question. Should i just cover the entire floor with the first two materials?
Very good explanation 👍
Wish you would link some of those products.
Sorry, we need to start adding this to our videos. You can find these products at www.carbuilders.com.au 👍
Been looking everywhere for a video like this.
Would you say that (other than doors) most of the sound comes from the roof or the floors? Don't think I have the budget for all 4 doors, trunk, and floor + roof, so i'll probably have to choose between one of the latter two.
Hi there. What are you putting it in? Give us a call and we can advise on it 👍03 8777 0960
@@carbuilders1
I'm putting it in a honda accord 2018.
I'm not sure if I'd be able to buy your product so i didn't want to waste your time haha
I've got Vauxhall/Opel Mokka (Buick Encore). I get that cost/weight cutting made this car an empty tin with thin metal all-around. Do you think that a few patches of this rubber sheet would help with overall road noise (and vibration throughout the thin sheets of steel around)?
Hi Mieczyslaw. Yes, you will achieve results by adding Stage 1 pads to single sheet metal panels and the Stage 2 Foams or Mass Loaded Vinyls will act to reduce external road noise. Good luck
Hello. I'd like to use the black sound deadener directly above and around my mufflers under the car, to reduce the noise entering in the boot.
I understand this is an internal liner, but is it possible to use externally?
Hi Duane. As you have stated, this product is designed for interior use and we would recommend using it on the inside rather than outside. An issue underneath the car might also be the surface being dirty and greasy. If you are able to clean the exterior surface thoroughly (test with masking tape once clean- if that sticks and deadener will) then it can be placed in the area.
@@carbuilders1 Thank you for your reply. I’ll clean the area thoroughly.
Very helpful! Thank you
Thank you Matt. Glad it was helpful.
just saw this video when I'm researching to sound dampening on my car
I got a question about the 2nd stage vinyl foam
I saw different method of installing the foam , the method in this video show foam down vinyl up drop in method
But in some other video, they do the opposite site way instead , so even stick the vinyl face to the second layer and made the 3rd layer foam facing the cabin instea
So which is more functional in terms of reducing noice from out side
Bcoz in still thinking whether to get the 3rd foam layer or butyl and 2nd layer foam are enough
I saw that butyl alone eliminated alot of high pitch noise, but will it made the whole car low tone drony
Great channal. I subscribed becsuse I want learn hove soundproof car, pipes i house. My question is how much of sound deading material is at least required to be safe of vibration? 25, 50, 75, 100% of metal plate?!? usually find answerin a range 50-75%.
Thank you Josip. 👍 I think you are right with your percentage. People have different ratios that they use to coverage surfaces. Auto manufacturer's will engineer sound proofing additions to a dollar point, researching the optimal positioning for deadening to just meet consumer expectations. Vibration dampening mats are most effective on single skin metallic surfaces. It is unnecessary to apply deadener to over-lapped metal sections, top hat, chassis sections etc as these areas don't resonant. To engineer a car it takes some skill and technical analysis to pin point key areas, in reality most people will cover everything as they don't mind spending a bit more to ensure they have achieved the desired results. With paying customers, most people want everything covered. Keep in mind that this is one stage in controlling sound in your vehicle. 😎👍
@@carbuilders1 Thank you on answer. I want soundproof car from vibration and reduce tyre noise (I do no metter for loud music). Mostly I hearing noise from trunk in my Ford Focus 2010. I hope that project will be succesfull :) ps just yesterday soundproof pipes with armaflex 13mm, a lot less noise.
Great. Good luck with the project 👍
They look like great products! Can you get the 1st. (rubber) layer off if you choose to later? Also, is there ever a chance of water getting under it and eventually rusting the metal under it? Just making sure because I would be putting this on my 34 year old Dodge D150 truck with only 26 thousand original miles on it. It's like new so I am extremely careful what I do to it.
The reason for my concern is the aftermarket rustproofing that is installed the most in the northern part of the country is a "rubberized" coating that is sprayed into the doors and the undercarriage and in time it pulls back enough to let in water and salt and the moisture stays there and just rots everything right through! I have seen frames of new trucks so rotten after less than 10 years old because of this issue that they are totalled!
Hi thoms_here I understand your concern. Yes, you can remove the butyl rubber once applied. It takes some elbow grease but can be done. We replace it once a year in our demonstration half car that we take to shows (to freshen up the display as it get constantly touched and rubbed). Unlike the old bitumen deadener, which would crack and allow moisture underneath it butyl doesn't harden and actually becomes tackier in warmer weather. Butyl is used in plumbing applications and you can see in another video we did that it creates a water proof barrier even when in a vertical application. ua-cam.com/video/tNnmyFO8lcw/v-deo.html Good luck with the Dodge, sound like a nice ride 😎👍
Does your foam product have a mold inhibitor like some of your competitors? I don't see that listed on the website. It's nice that there's a closed-cell topper, but unless you intend to blanket your entire vehicle and seal every little seam and joint, moisture will still get down into the open-cell underlayment and mold. It may not rot the material like jute, but it will mold. What happens if you have a leak inside the vehicle? What happens if you spill a realistic amount of drink, as in, an entire cup of it (12-24oz)? It's going to soak through your carpet and the first seam in the insulation it it finds it's going to seep down through capillary action. Just because it isn't jute doesn't mean it can't or won't mold. This is still a very real concern for modern insulation.
Hi gymkhanadog. If moisture and mould is a concern/issue, we advise underlay's that are totally closed cell such as www.carbuilders.com.au/water-proof-carpet-underlay-stage-2~728
Great video.
It would be great if you link the product names ?
Thank you for the feedback. We need to do this 👍All the products can be found here www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/
Hey this stuff looks like a great option, just wondering how it would be removed down the track if ever needed?
What would you use for a dash that rattles on bumpy roads? The most distracting noise in my car seems to come from the glove box door rattling.
I used Weather Strip window seal on my car for that. Seems to work well. Just run it along the few key areas to reduce vibration.
And how do you take it off? For rust inspection etc...?
Hey Rockin Sergio. Yes, it is important to inspect and treat rust before applying to panels. Once the sound deadening is laid they create a water proof barrier and protection from rust.
@@carbuilders1 and how do you take it of when or if needed?
I am converting a MB Sprinter van to a camper. The walls and ceilings seem to already have some dampening material from the factory. Should the vibration dampening mats you mention be applied as well, or is this redundant?
Hi Mike. The factory Stage 1 deadening will be doing something, however the manufacturer will often put minimal amounts in an effort to save costs. You can add to this. These vans don't have any Stage 2 materials which will need to be added if you are chasing reducing sound and heat.
Helpful vid..
Cheers mate 🤙
Any danger of moisture getting trapped when placing the materials down? Or am I overthinking it?...
No, good question. The butyl facing the metal on the stage 1 sound deadening mats is water proof. We have a video where we pour liquid into a pocket of sound deadener to illustrate this. This type of material is used in plumbing applications to create water proof seals. It is important that you rust-treat the surface before applying the mats and that you roll the mats down without leaving air pockets. The sound deadener will act as a rust barrier. Around the mats you may still want to treat the metal with an anti-rust wax. Please free to call us to discuss further 03 8777 0960 👍
that cymbal trick btw, you will get similar effect with any random blanket
Oh man, now I regret coating most of the front door area in the butyl mat, the roof I have zero regrets for, since I'd rather have too much "just in case", but the doors are unnecessarily heavy now, when just couple of pieces would have probably done the trick, considering the butyl mat is just there to reduce resonance... I picked up on that when doing the trunk, placing small pieces strategically instead of covering the whole area, but at that point most of the car has already been done.
HEY BRO, do you have any experience with NISSAN 330/350/370 Zs?
How much costs should it take to quiet down the rearend of 350/370 Z significantly so it wouldnt be a deciding factor like it was for me
i used to really like them until i testdrove them back to back with a mercedes & G37.
the 370Z was by far the coolest/fastest/Best Handling but it sounded like a truck with empty bed driving down a gravel road compared to other cars and i ended up getting an Altima 3.5 that i put a bigger swaybar and strut tower brace and it handled GREAT after that.
Quick question, I've installed the foil close cell foam type mat in my car and have been told by someone that the foil is going to cause rust from condensation build up.
I quote...
"I only have concerns about water condensation underneath it I've pulled loads of that stuff off cars and there's always rust on the panel joints"
Is This true in your knowledge?
Excellent!!!
I have a question about which exeact product to use in my case.
So i have removed the sound deadening of my gear selector since i replaced it for a bigger one but the oem one does no fit.
What do you recommend?
Hi Greg. Please send this question with a photo to sales@carbuilders.com.au so that we can best advise 👍
Are there any issues with the mats peeling off in very warm weather?
Hi Kool Range. The Sound Deadener? The butyl will get tackier in extreme temps. It won't peel off but in vertical positions such as door skins we like border it with our aluminium foil tape to ensure their is no chance of slip. www.carbuilders.com.au/aluminium-foil-tape
I'm getting this. The road noise on coarse chipseal in Australia is so bad.
Nice video friend.
Thank you Albert 👍
who makes that thick mat? nice video also what's the mm thickness
Hi ALL KNOWING BILLY. This is a Car Builders Mass Noise Liner. You can see them here www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/ 👍
This is so cool thank
You👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you got something out of it 😎👍
Sooooo if I want to reduce exhaust drone and road noise I want.....?
Cameron Beyer a better exhaust setup and better tires?
@@boldstar69 2019 WRX with the stock summer sport compound tires and a fill turbo back
@@cameronbeyer7687 try having a helmholtz resonator installed to cut back on drone, and not sure what summer tires comes stock in your area but replacing them will also cut back on road noise.
@@boldstar69 I actually have 4 resonators haha, but Dunlops come stock. Nah I'll take the added noise for improved handling. I currently have blizzaks on for the winter, and holy road noise that's fucking insane haha
Can we use the waterproof butyl tape which has butyl rubber on one side and an aluminum foil on the other? It is 1 mm thick. Hardly at least will it reduce the vibrations?
I use about a foot of thin weather-stripping to deaden the down the 'teng' sound of my microwave (when shutting the door). Right in the middle It helped a bit. So, I'd say yes, a bit.
you have links to the mas loaded vylne you used here?
Sorry, I have just gone and added all the links to the products 👍