All the recommended soundproofing products I talk about in this video can be found in the description of this video. Don't forget to SHARE, LIKE, COMMENT, and SUBSCRIBE. Doing this really helps small channels like mine to have a chance on UA-cam. Thank you!
Excellent video! Someone told me how good Kilmat was I just needed a better understanding of why they were saying what they were saying. I guess for the wheel wells I'm going spray paint it first (unless they make a black one now).
Sounds like He’s Soft Promoting Kilmat: Our Noico 80 mil deadening material is made on a butyl rubber base and does not contain any asphalt. From their Amazon Store. Summer 2021
I used 50 mil Kilmat on the inside of my Tacoma- after a quick tutorial video, I was an installation expert! Kilmat FTW!! Affordable, easy to use, no lingering smell- ohhh it really makes a huge difference too! My doors lost that hollow tin sound, and of course my tunes! When Im rocking out- I feel like I'm at the show- not driving down the road-lol. Seriously Kitmat FTW.
Used killmat in my 2000 trans am and it was a major difference. Also that deadner was easy and great to work with. If you wear gloves you literally dont need a roller. You can knuckle roll it all. I did from firewall all the way to the full trunk area. Used 2 boxes and 3 sheets. Thats doors and hatch etc.
@@tw8444 Literally all the pro's and con's are interchangeable. You always need to lay your sheets out in the driveway to warm up. You always need to buy an $8.99 roller to install. I have completely coated two cars in Noico and there is no smell! Heck, I installed it in an 03 Jetta to GET RID of the crayon smell. Dynamat was the first to Market that's why it's so expensive. They just never price adjusted when competition entered the market. Noico all the way! maybe throw some adhesive backed, closed cell foam over it if you really want to get maximum results (I did this in a 2010 TDI Jetta. Doors, trunk and even the back of the fender inserts. I was extremely satisfied with the results).
@@80sluv67 going to be taking my car into the shop to get my trunk done, what adhesive backed close cell foam brand should I buy? Will that really make a difference?
@@bobbylobby840 I just bought a roll of cheap stuff off Amazon. 1/8” I think. I think I just did closed cell in the doors. You have to watch how thick you get it or the panels won’t fit when you go to put it back together. One regret I had on my 2010 Jetta was putting too much deadner on the door speaker plastic adapter. It kinda killed the mid-bass.
@@bobbylobby840 doing the trunk is the best place to start, I’ve had stereo guys come across the parking lot to tell me they could tell because the bass was so clean. And don’t forget to put a little deadner or closed cell behind the license plate!
I installed FatMat in a 2006 Pontiac I purchased new. It worked well as a sound deadening material and vastly improved the sound of the stereo. I just got rid of the car last year and it may have been the FatMat that was holding it together.
I used Noico "without gloves" and no injuries were incurred. Also I experienced ZERO smell of any kind. I was surprised how much coverage I got in my truck with only 18 sq ft. But getting another 36 sq ft soon, to finish the truck, and start on my car. LOVE this stuff :) Oh, and Noico also makes Noico RED 315 mil 20 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive, which adds "some" additional sound deadening, but mostly, its used for heat insulation. For the roof of my truck, I used a layer of Noico regular sound deadener first, then a layer of this stuff, for heat insulation, for our Sacramento Summers :)
In what ways has sound deadening made a difference for you, in anything? For your music, road noise, etc.? Is it worth it? Thinking about doing it but haven’t found too many videos or forums to find out if it’s worth it.
It works and seen the biggest gains from doing roofs, package trays, and some door skins that flop a lot. The floor helps but you don’t have as much in my experience because carpet does a pretty good job of insulating sound already.
I spent almost $600 using Dynamat in the past on my Thunderbird to cover most of the interior including doors, rear panels in the back seat, entire trunk including spare tire well and lid, and the mating surface between my amp rack with cooling fans and the ported box. Its just too damn expensive.. all the other parts including firewall and most of the floor was generic sound deadener from an auto-body supplier, and I also used a heat gun along with a roller when using the cheaper stuff which made a huge difference. The end result was massive, especially after adding a nice EQ and external crossover.. too expensive however.. I am going to do the same treatment to a Mark VIII LSC I have - same exact ported box with custom amp rack and cooling fans and it should have the same nice tight fit in the trunk since its more or less the same frame car. This time I think I am going to stick with a 50sq foot roll of Kilmat, and will add another 25sq feet for the other bits I would like to cover. I dont know if I will go with 50ml or 80ml, but even 50ml will make a hell of a difference over stock I suppose.
I did a double layer of FatMat in my 95 Altima SE. 300sqft of it. I covered every square inch of the interior including inside the doors, door panels and interior bits and pieces. Aside from the Asphalt smell that lingered for about a month it worked flawlessly. I did that install 15 years ago and it's still holding up 100%. I'm not sure of the cost now but 15 years ago it was $300 for 300sqft.
My noico is working great with no smell! It helps keep car way cooler in the hot Florida sun!! The sound deading affect is excellent!! It is just as good as my dynamat from other vehicles!! It was also cheaper than any other products when purchased!!
Glad I sat through and listened to everything, I was unaware that Fatmat didn't use butyl as there adhesive. I am glad you mentioned that the asphalt didn't do well in the heat because I live in the desert and drive a black car with leather interior. I probably would have had a stroke every time I got in my car. Thank you
I’m putting dynamat on the roof of my car and killmat everywhere else. Since the top of my car gets the hottest I think dynamat will help keep it a bit cooler.
if i remember right kilmat has actually been around longer than dynomat, dynomat pushed kilmat out of the sound shops as the "better product" more profit product more like.
Dynamat is a better product period. Dynamat Xtreme reduced the amplitude of the resonance on my test panel by 9.5db decibels, while the 80mil version of Killmat only reduced the amplitude of the resonance of that same test panel by about 7.5db. And that's a handicapped test, as the dynamat I used on this test panel came in the roll (their 4 square foot package) which reduces effectiveness, while Killmat came in flat sheets. Last time I tested Dynamat, from a pack that came in flat sheets, it reduced resonance of that test panel by 11db. And, Killmat's heat resistance is garbage.
That's quite comprehensive! Thank you for mentioning the smell. Just spent how many hours getting a smell out of the cab, only to go and put a new smell in there.
Really good video overview I've used the killmat, dynamat & noico in different semi truck builds I really like the killmat for the price & performance even though dynamat is slightly thinner than noico & killmat I guess but the end result as far as noise reduction in my book and our drivers without knowing always seem to think dynamat trucks are quiter and have less rattles. Noico works well, but I'd definitely pick Killmat over Noico and Dynamat over all if funds allow.
Go for Noico. You don't want asphalt based sound deadening in your vehicle. And if your worried about weight. Why are you sound deadening in the first place? I've done two entire cars. Best thing I can tell you is clean the panels well before installing the product.
Kilmat is far better than noico. And comes in a 100mil option which is what i use. Ive used almost everything out there and kilmat is my go-to for price and performance. My only other brands i use are Sky high and Wirez but for the price - kilmat wins imo
Great video The info you provided was spot on answering many of my questions Thank you for making choosing a sound deadening product easier I went with the Kilmat FYI I work in the paving industry and the word asphalt is pronounced…. ASS-FALT there is no “ash” sound Thanks again
I thought this was a comparison since it lists products "vs" products but sounds like the details provided were from product description. A comparison with tests would have gone a long way. Thanks for the video though, i know it took time and effort.
Yes it did. It turned out amazing. I put dynomat on every inch of the trunk so it’s completely sealed and it now has no rattle out all. I will never go back to not using dynamat with a sound system.
Edit: looks like im going with Killmat Im looking for something to keep heat out, and reduce noise for my 05 Honda Accord. I’ve had to gut the entire vehicle (headliner, seats, and even carpet) as the vehicle sat for over 5 years. Thank you so much for this video! But there’s still so many options!
Awesome video! I've been looking for such a video. Though I have seen various vids on this subject matter, this video really clicked with me. I had to subscribe.
Save your money and get Noico, there’s no odor, it delivers what it promise, compare to my friend who used dynamat we can’t tell the difference and we have the same thickness. The only difference is that i have money for lunch everytime i took a break applying this thing while he had cup o noodles. U might wanna focus more on you audio system than a mat, it’s all hype.
unfortunately i don't have a sound comparison. i bought a box of dynamat and kilmat. the dynamat is much heavier than the kilmat, 23 vs 17 pounds. the dynamat sheets are 3 X larger but are folded which makes it harder to smooth out. the kilmat sheets are smaller but came in mint condition without creases. they say kilmat is thicker but i didn't see a difference just looking at them. i installed the dynamat quite easily (without a heat gun) even as a newbie. i used $6 metal snips from harbor frieght. i used a norco roller and thick plastic flattener (from mod podge). and if you are removing the vapor barrier butyl tape, 90% isopropyl alcohol or goo off managed to clean that black sticky stuff quite easily. bicycle tire tools worked better that trim tools to pop the clips to remove the door panels. it took 3 sheets of dynamat to cover the back doors and rear hatch (small car). it took 2.5 sheets to do the front doors. with just the doors covered (not the floor/roof), i noticed my music volume is maybe 3 steps lower (than before) on the freeway. was it worth spending $200? yes because i commute on the freeway everyday. i choose dynamat because it was heavier and maybe it takes more energy to vibrate. i really don't know whether weight or thickness is more important in reducing noise. hope that helps.
I unfortunately had to go with what I could afford. And in this case the cheapest of them all was The Fat Matt Rattle Trap. I picked up two full rolls for less than the price of one. Yeah I know it's going to cause more heat in my vehicle in the hot summers. That part kind of sucks but I need to get rid of some road noise and exhaust noise along with keeping some of the rattles down.
Fantastic review! Kilmat may have just gotten the biz for my 1984 VW Westy. Need a couple more opinions and I am off the the races prior to paint. Thanks!
Hi every single product is HVAC material you can get 2 big rolls at pace supply and or home Depot. Then you can customize the length x width. Limited to the width. Just maybe the purple stuff put on top of this might keep soud out. God bless you .
years ago I quieted my Dodge truck down a total of 10 dBs and it was worth every cent when I drove it to have it nice and quiet as well as cooler inside also.
@@belthagor03 You are putting yourself in discomfort with the anticipation that one day if that day ever comes, you will drive on black ice for 5 seconds and not slide into a sidewalk while going 5km an hour because that's as fast as you could go before it go out of control. Makes me wonder why we pay for insurance. Been using blizzak for 10 years now and they are the most confident inspiring driving tires, best of all you can not hear them.
Damping material is just the first part of a 3 part 'system' for soundproofing a car. There is nothing "optimal" about 50% coverage. This is just a point where a group of people agree to settle for "good enough". It is in many cases a point of diminishing return. 100% coverage is better than 50% coverage... but that last 50% of coverage doesn't result in the same amount of effectiveness as the first 50% of coverage. Damping material in applied to the metal to lower the resonate frequency. Then you need a decoupler. This is the second part of this 'system'. Closed cell foam is sold in the car audio industry as a decoupler. There is nothing magical about it. It is just a simple product that has a huge mark-up because it is targeted to a niche market. You can find any closed cell foam and use it as a decoupler. The best option I have used for MANY years is Reflectix. It is a double layer of 'bubble wrap' in an alumanized layer. It's an amazing decoupler that provides great thermal properties. For the final part of a proper "Sound Deadning" project is MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) with a minimum weight of 1lb/ft². On this layer the MLV MUST BE 100%. Tape all seams. This layer of MLV is what actually "blocks" the sound.
Do you have any test reports to back up your claims? Everyone in the audio industry claims one thing and the reports show otherwise. ESPECIALLY the car audio industry. I am sure you do not even know of the test reports done in California I believe in the 90's that showcased what wall structure was the best at stoppind sound. Yes you may be basing it on "theory". However, what you are suggesting is probably so negligible that is not even worth doing.
@@neilneil4021 MLV is installed over the mat and closed cell. Mat goes on the metal surfaces, closed cell over that to decouple the MLV from the mat. Then the MLV is installed. Over all of this you would then install the carpet. (Assuming you are doing the floor plan of a car)
@@catmanisgod8200 i am going wiht Noico mat, and reflectix closed cell as per your suggestion, then adding the MLV over it. any suggstions for goof MLV?. This is for the floor plan of the car. Now, do i would be doing roof of the car as well. for that NO MLV, right? as it wont hold up there and for doors as well. So, only mat for doors and roof, or should add closed cell to doors and roof as well? Thanks a ton
Thank you for the review and opinion. I have a question: do similar vibration materials of comparable thickness have a noticeable difference compared to, for example, Amazon Prime vibration protection? Are there alternatives to Amazon that are cheaper than their branded product? I would pay more attention to eco-friendliness than other factors. The material may emit harmful substances when heated. Thank you
Noico doesn’t have a smell and you don’t have to use gloves. I’ve installed it in multiple vehicles now. The biggest gains I’ve seen are from pulling headliners and doing the roof. Your floor already has carpet with sound deadened most times so you don’t have nearly as much from adding a shit load of sound deadening to it as you’d thing. Rear seat panels, package trays, truck cab real walls etc give you the most noticeable gains in my opinion. Slap your hand against things and see if it sounds like a dull thud or like you’ve just smacked a piece of gutter piping. Easy way to find things that need sound deadening.
I wanna go with the Killmat but I just LOVE the BLACK no label Appearance of the Noiko Mat... It looks VERY STEALTHY and Surely gives a CLEAN Factory Look... Of course nobody's Going to see it, but DEFINITELY for the Underside of some trunk lids ho with the Noiko Black because not all undersides of Factory Trunk lids have a carpeted or plastic trim... I was actually thinking about Rhino Lining the insides of my door skins, rear quarter panels and trunk lid, trunk, roof, etc 1st (Hercules was the best quality that was tested by Project Farm believe it or not), and then going with the 50 mill, as the perfect combination... Waiting for Killmat to make a Black NO label Clean look edition like the Niko Mat and ill be sold... Until then Ill have to use the Niko on the undersides of my trunk lid... Speaking of bed liner roll on type stuff... There is also the Rubberized Undercoatings... The Professional Industrial Rubberized Undercoating that KBS makes, and Professional Industrial Rubberized Undercoating that Rust-Oleum makes are BOTH VERY NICE!... Would you recommend that to apply in tight crevices that you can't get these Mat products into? I know I paint my inner fender wells with the KBS Rust Seal, then there Asphalt Roll on and spray on for Tight nooks and cranny crevices, then I finish off with a coat of either the KBS Rubberized Undercoating or go with The Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoating, as they both are fantastic! Never hear any rocks hitting inside the fender wells anymore as it dampenings them TO NON EXISTENCE IN NOISE! COMPLETELY CANCELS IT OUT!!! Alongside this combination on the Inner frame Rails and rocker panels where rocks like to kick up as well! Also would love for you to do a segment including SoundShield and Hushmat
I bought some kilmat as my base layer and some noico foam for my second layer. I am starting in the back seat and will eventually get to the front and then the roof. I need to do the back because I got an exhaust and the drone is a little too much for me. I bought one 36sq ft kilmat and medium thick noico foam and one 20sq ft thick foam
@@brendentaylor8976 sorry for the late response. No smell at all, I’m in Boston where we have 90 degree summers and Freezing winters. About 3 months ago I pulled my door panels and everything is still perfect.
wow i just replaced all the peel and stick mats with LizardSkin Sound Control, much easier and faster. I was amazed at how much condensation the mats allowed. I think my truck is actually more deaden than before. If your going to do a test include it all.
I did Lizard Skin all over the underbody & wheel wells of my car, liked it alot... So you liked it more than the regular mat stuff? ...any specific differences?
Excellent sound deadener is polystyrene. This is what Hefty picnic plates are made from. You cannot scream thru a .250 thick sheet of this stuff. It has a few problems tho. Its brittle and sensitive to heat over 250 f.
torch and rag works better than roller for me. get it hot and it REALLY sticks good. set it in the sun and do it in the afternoon when m car is hot as fk. been using sillless, seems to be the same as killmat.
Thomas S I just bought some of this and will be using it in my truck today. I have nothing to compare it to so I hope it works well. I opened the box and there's no noticeable smell, so that's good.
There’s something quite satisfying about putting down Dynamat.. but the price is insane. Any soundproofing is better than no soundproofing anyway & it can be quite rewarding after all the effort.
most cars shown in this video have the sound deadener (panel resonance reducer) over applied. 100% coverage is not necessary w/a deadener product; 50% is optimal. Deadener products do not block sound as that is up to other products. Yes, deadener may block a tiny bit but its main function is to remove resonance from metal/plastic panels; hence why Dynamat's in-store demo of their product is a service ring bell. The bell w/o dynamat pings whereas the one w/Dyanmant thunks. This is most definitely a so-so 'guide' and not a how-to...
Coverage depends on the product. I think Resonix you can do as little as 25%, its 100 mils thick and is really top tier stuff. Regardless, adding more isn't just wasted, but you get diminishing returns so it becomes less cost efficient to proceed to 100%
@@zacharymcgraw3132 ...true statements...yes, more means diminishing returns and first layer was the most effective. deadeners, in general, get lumped in with other sound isolators/proofing, and they were never meant to cover 100% of an area. there are many different types and thicknesses out there and ppl have to do their research. Some have CCF attached, some some MLV, some have foil backing, but few have all of the layers. Different types are used in different areas, but people don't want to mess with 3-4 different materials and spend the extra money for the right product, so they buy cheap and use twice as much. But videoes like this make people think 100% coverage is necessary, and it isn't.
thank you for posting this. I am going to be converting a box truck and will not be in the box when driving so sound will only be an issue for privacy and comfort while camping. . I think my box is about 8X7X 14 so there is 318 sq feet of walls and roof.... if I covered it at 25% that would be about 75 sq ft. About $2 a sq ft makes $150.... probably worth it if there wasnt another way.... I have an almost unlimited free source of aluminum or mylar foil plastic bubble huge bags that are ,if opened into sheets , about 3 'by 6' and I think maybe sprayed or brushed contact cement would do same result for just a few bucks.... I am not thinking a fire is going to happen or if it did it would outgas any worse... If I am missing something please let me know. I would be doing heat insulation on top of it anyway..... and am more worried about moisture collection and rust but the box metal is aluminum so not likely to rust.... right?? Thanks for any comments ( besides how cheap can you get. I know that is a thing but I am living on social security and trying to save enough to leave the kids something more than I got.
regarding your great video if i want the best of sound aborbtion for road noise and the best for audio system this dosent matter if is more expensive, if i understand well is Dynamat right ? just want the best dosent matter the price or the timeand dificulty installation :)
@@chrishaan5766 your answer have no sence, dosent help.. what i ask is what is the best if the money dosent count thats all. for the others they can ask there questions right ? then...
@@chrishaan5766 i start my question with : IF "I" WANT... And i ask the youtuber not you. Listen kid (i hope for yourself and people in your life you are a kid...) go do something interesting in your life. Regarding your comments you are not here to help people. They are more intersting things to do in life than your sick game wasting your time and ours with usless comments. If you are not able to answer then dont answer. This way of comments just show you are a kid or someone with big frustration in life... Bye
Hey Fraizer My 7 year old “kid” has a much better grasp of the English language than you Go back to school take an English class and learn how to speak the language Reading your comments is like listening to someone talk with marbles in their mouth Then “YOU” might have something of value to add I’ll bet it’s someone else in your life who wants the sound deadening in the vehicle because actually listening to you speak while being stuck in that vehicle with you must be insane Remember your never to old to finish your education Good luck to you
what is there is a large liquid spill in the car or rain water gets in and soaks the carpet. will this affect Killmat? Will it rust or otherwise cause problems?
great job on explaining the difference of these products. Question - I'm using this on my RV, and was going to put it under the bottom (since it's completely finished inside). Wanted to see your thoughts about if I would get a benefit of both sound and weather insulation (being installed under the RV). And.. which of the 4 would you recommend (think the Asphalt base one is out).
If you are doing an interior panel use a USA brand butyl. Kilmat, siless, fatmat all cheap deadening will have asphalt, even if it says it’s just butyl. After the butyl layer, use a closed cell foam liner for additional sound absorption and insulation. Spend extra on a good real butyl layer and then you can go with a cheaper closed cell foam to save $. And buy a roller. You’re going to be rolling for hours, so I suggest to spend extra on a quality roller as well. I’m saying all this from years of experience installing.
you would be better off using a spray on liner. before the liner is sprayed on make sure you clean the underside completely. and ensure its dry. spray por15 to seal and convert any rust. then spray on the liner. not doing any of this will result in trapped moisture and rust
Quick question, I've installed the foil close cell foam type mat in my car and have been told by someone that the foil is going to cause rust from condensation build up. I quote... "I only have concerns about water condensation underneath it I've pulled loads of that stuff off cars and there's always rust on the panel joints" Is This true in your knowledge?
The bedliner will do the same job as these mats. All they do is dampen the vibration of the sheetmetal. No need wasting money on this stuff if you're going to spray in a liner.
@ 8:00 minutes.... Somebody takes the time and effort required to sound deaden their car, but doesn't mind driving around with a windshield that is freaking split in half right across the drivers field of view ! Really ? WTF ! That would drive me ef'ing crazy !
I would like to know; if there are any adverse effects to these soundproofing products when I have my yearly Krown rust protection? also can it be applied after it has already been sprayed? Play safe from ElliotLake, Ontario, Canada
All the recommended soundproofing products I talk about in this video can be found in the description of this video. Don't forget to SHARE, LIKE, COMMENT, and SUBSCRIBE. Doing this really helps small channels like mine to have a chance on UA-cam. Thank you!
FWIW, Asphalt has only 1 "H". It is asphalt, not ashphalt.
Have you ever heard of second skin? How does it compare to all these products
Excellent video! Someone told me how good Kilmat was I just needed a better understanding of why they were saying what they were saying. I guess for the wheel wells I'm going spray paint it first (unless they make a black one now).
Sounds like He’s Soft Promoting Kilmat:
Our Noico 80 mil deadening material is made on a butyl rubber base and does not contain any asphalt. From their Amazon Store. Summer 2021
so if price were not a factor, which would you use?
I used 50 mil Kilmat on the inside of my Tacoma- after a quick tutorial video, I was an installation expert!
Kilmat FTW!! Affordable, easy to use, no lingering smell- ohhh it really makes a huge difference too! My doors lost that hollow tin sound, and of course my tunes! When Im rocking out- I feel like I'm at the show- not driving down the road-lol.
Seriously Kitmat FTW.
Used killmat in my 2000 trans am and it was a major difference. Also that deadner was easy and great to work with. If you wear gloves you literally dont need a roller. You can knuckle roll it all. I did from firewall all the way to the full trunk area. Used 2 boxes and 3 sheets. Thats doors and hatch etc.
I was expecting an actual comparison of some kind, not just reading the brochures for each product.
Yeah, how did this get so many likes being such a terrible video?
@@tw8444 Literally all the pro's and con's are interchangeable. You always need to lay your sheets out in the driveway to warm up. You always need to buy an $8.99 roller to install. I have completely coated two cars in Noico and there is no smell! Heck, I installed it in an 03 Jetta to GET RID of the crayon smell. Dynamat was the first to Market that's why it's so expensive. They just never price adjusted when competition entered the market. Noico all the way! maybe throw some adhesive backed, closed cell foam over it if you really want to get maximum results (I did this in a 2010 TDI Jetta. Doors, trunk and even the back of the fender inserts. I was extremely satisfied with the results).
@@80sluv67 going to be taking my car into the shop to get my trunk done, what adhesive backed close cell foam brand should I buy? Will that really make a difference?
@@bobbylobby840 I just bought a roll of cheap stuff off Amazon. 1/8” I think. I think I just did closed cell in the doors. You have to watch how thick you get it or the panels won’t fit when you go to put it back together. One regret I had on my 2010 Jetta was putting too much deadner on the door speaker plastic adapter. It kinda killed the mid-bass.
@@bobbylobby840 doing the trunk is the best place to start, I’ve had stereo guys come across the parking lot to tell me they could tell because the bass was so clean. And don’t forget to put a little deadner or closed cell behind the license plate!
18:10 for recommendation
I was expecting some actual testing. Like putting all 4 on a similar panels and testing sound isolation. This was rather data-free.
Yeah. He just read the websites LOL.
I installed FatMat in a 2006 Pontiac I purchased new. It worked well as a sound deadening material and vastly improved the sound of the stereo. I just got rid of the car last year and it may have been the FatMat that was holding it together.
🤣😂😅
Me too
Detroit Michigan daily driver year round
I used it to hold the front fender back in place at the bottom
LOLOLOL
I used Noico "without gloves" and no injuries were incurred. Also I experienced ZERO smell of any kind. I was surprised how much coverage I got in my truck with only 18 sq ft. But getting another 36 sq ft soon, to finish the truck, and start on my car. LOVE this stuff :) Oh, and Noico also makes Noico RED 315 mil 20 sqft Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive, which adds "some" additional sound deadening, but mostly, its used for heat insulation. For the roof of my truck, I used a layer of Noico regular sound deadener first, then a layer of this stuff, for heat insulation, for our Sacramento Summers :)
In what ways has sound deadening made a difference for you, in anything? For your music, road noise, etc.? Is it worth it? Thinking about doing it but haven’t found too many videos or forums to find out if it’s worth it.
It works and seen the biggest gains from doing roofs, package trays, and some door skins that flop a lot. The floor helps but you don’t have as much in my experience because carpet does a pretty good job of insulating sound already.
Same here. No smell, no gloves. Applied fairly easily and did a good job. Did my trunk and under rear seat using 30 sqft.
i just covered my car with noico’s 80 mil followed by their 315mil red foam, 0 odor & works great
Happy to hear! Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah I did my saddlebags no smell with Noico
@@megatapped on your bike??
I literally had fatmat in my Amazon shopping 🛍 cart. GOD BLESS YOU‼️ killmat or noico, here I come
Happy to hear!! Let me know how it all turns out!! 😊
Which one did you buy?
I just installed Noico. Zero odor. Very happy with the results
Thanks for sharing! I really like that product as well!
thillyard1 same never had my issues with it super easy to use and 1 box will do 4 doors and a hatch with ease
thillyard1 just did my car yesterday, no odor and easy to install. Cover all four doors.
I spent almost $600 using Dynamat in the past on my Thunderbird to cover most of the interior including doors, rear panels in the back seat, entire trunk including spare tire well and lid, and the mating surface between my amp rack with cooling fans and the ported box. Its just too damn expensive.. all the other parts including firewall and most of the floor was generic sound deadener from an auto-body supplier, and I also used a heat gun along with a roller when using the cheaper stuff which made a huge difference. The end result was massive, especially after adding a nice EQ and external crossover.. too expensive however..
I am going to do the same treatment to a Mark VIII LSC I have - same exact ported box with custom amp rack and cooling fans and it should have the same nice tight fit in the trunk since its more or less the same frame car. This time I think I am going to stick with a 50sq foot roll of Kilmat, and will add another 25sq feet for the other bits I would like to cover. I dont know if I will go with 50ml or 80ml, but even 50ml will make a hell of a difference over stock I suppose.
I did a double layer of FatMat in my 95 Altima SE. 300sqft of it. I covered every square inch of the interior including inside the doors, door panels and interior bits and pieces. Aside from the Asphalt smell that lingered for about a month it worked flawlessly. I did that install 15 years ago and it's still holding up 100%. I'm not sure of the cost now but 15 years ago it was $300 for 300sqft.
My noico is working great with no smell! It helps keep car way cooler in the hot Florida sun!! The sound deading affect is excellent!! It is just as good as my dynamat from other vehicles!! It was also cheaper than any other products when purchased!!
Thanks for the feedback!
Same here. I tried all of them, and Noico was my favorite for the price.
Glad I sat through and listened to everything, I was unaware that Fatmat didn't use butyl as there adhesive. I am glad you mentioned that the asphalt didn't do well in the heat because I live in the desert and drive a black car with leather interior. I probably would have had a stroke every time I got in my car. Thank you
You’re welcome! Happy you liked the video! 😊
I’m putting dynamat on the roof of my car and killmat everywhere else. Since the top of my car gets the hottest I think dynamat will help keep it a bit cooler.
if i remember right kilmat has actually been around longer than dynomat, dynomat pushed kilmat out of the sound shops as the "better product" more profit product more like.
Dynamat is a better product period. Dynamat Xtreme reduced the amplitude of the resonance on my test panel by 9.5db decibels, while the 80mil version of Killmat only reduced the amplitude of the resonance of that same test panel by about 7.5db.
And that's a handicapped test, as the dynamat I used on this test panel came in the roll (their 4 square foot package) which reduces effectiveness, while Killmat came in flat sheets. Last time I tested Dynamat, from a pack that came in flat sheets, it reduced resonance of that test panel by 11db.
And, Killmat's heat resistance is garbage.
That's quite comprehensive! Thank you for mentioning the smell. Just spent how many hours getting a smell out of the cab, only to go and put a new smell in there.
So what i got from this just buy some kilmat and call it a day... lol
Really good video overview I've used the killmat, dynamat & noico in different semi truck builds I really like the killmat for the price & performance even though dynamat is slightly thinner than noico & killmat I guess but the end result as far as noise reduction in my book and our drivers without knowing always seem to think dynamat trucks are quiter and have less rattles. Noico works well, but I'd definitely pick Killmat over Noico and Dynamat over all if funds allow.
Happy you liked the video! Thank you for your insight on these products.
I see everybody talking about sound deadners but not 1 time I see XXX Rattletrap. Trust me that stuff is real real good and not expensive at all
@5FaLIEn5 which one is better for keeping heat away, Kilmat or Noico?
@@gomnadz I'd recommend the killmatt has a pretty good butyl layer that reduces the heat transfer pretty good
Go for Noico. You don't want asphalt based sound deadening in your vehicle. And if your worried about weight. Why are you sound deadening in the first place? I've done two entire cars. Best thing I can tell you is clean the panels well before installing the product.
I used Noico and I don't have the rubber smell as mentioned in the video. To me, the Noico mats are highly recommended.
Me too I installed in the trunk where it is exposed and I've never smelled anything from it
Full sized SUV full cab top to bottom in a desert environment like Vegas or Tucson and this becomes very apparent.
I went with kilimat for my VW golf and my son's Honda Accord. Easy to install and works great. We haven't noticed any smell from it.
South African? :)
What year accord?
@@sergioh2015 2008
I was looking for real testing, especially vibration and sound decibels. Either way, thank you for sharing.
Check the Facebook group The Deadening for objective testing. That testing will slowly be migrating over to youtube as well.
Peace… Salam... Shalom... Namaste and Thank You so much for All that you are doing to Heal our Mother Earth 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ 🌷 ❤
Installed NVX stealth black. No smell. Easy install. No cuts. Doors are solid now
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback!
Kilmat is far better than noico. And comes in a 100mil option which is what i use. Ive used almost everything out there and kilmat is my go-to for price and performance. My only other brands i use are Sky high and Wirez but for the price - kilmat wins imo
Great video
The info you provided was spot on answering many of my questions
Thank you for making choosing a sound deadening product easier
I went with the Kilmat
FYI
I work in the paving industry and the word asphalt is pronounced….
ASS-FALT there is no “ash” sound
Thanks again
I thought this was a comparison since it lists products "vs" products but sounds like the details provided were from product description. A comparison with tests would have gone a long way.
Thanks for the video though, i know it took time and effort.
Just bought dynomat and can’t wait to install with my jl w6 HO
Awesome! Let us know how it turns out!
Did helped with noise reduction?
Yes it did. It turned out amazing. I put dynomat on every inch of the trunk so it’s completely sealed and it now has no rattle out all. I will never go back to not using dynamat with a sound system.
Edit: looks like im going with Killmat
Im looking for something to keep heat out, and reduce noise for my 05 Honda Accord. I’ve had to gut the entire vehicle (headliner, seats, and even carpet) as the vehicle sat for over 5 years. Thank you so much for this video! But there’s still so many options!
Awesome video! I've been looking for such a video. Though I have seen various vids on this subject matter, this video really clicked with me. I had to subscribe.
My friend The Cowboy says Dynamat is the best. I trust him completely. Everyone should, too.
get jiffy seal and foil tape, it's the exact same thing as the sound deadening material i bought, it's like 1-2$ a square foot
Interesting idea! Thanks. Might try that
This review couldn't have been more perfect. Thank You!
I used siless 50mil and their 2 closed cell foam products in a friends job and it came out awesome.
That’s great! Thanks for sharing!
Save your money and get Noico, there’s no odor, it delivers what it promise, compare to my friend who used dynamat we can’t tell the difference and we have the same thickness. The only difference is that i have money for lunch everytime i took a break applying this thing while he had cup o noodles. U might wanna focus more on you audio system than a mat, it’s all hype.
I’m more concerned about weight and road noise
@@tylerdoop you’ll have that except u pay less, it’s all up to you.
20 minutes of "blah blah", and zero testing. Try again.
👍🏻
unfortunately i don't have a sound comparison. i bought a box of dynamat and kilmat. the dynamat is much heavier than the kilmat, 23 vs 17 pounds. the dynamat sheets are 3 X larger but are folded which makes it harder to smooth out. the kilmat sheets are smaller but came in mint condition without creases. they say kilmat is thicker but i didn't see a difference just looking at them. i installed the dynamat quite easily (without a heat gun) even as a newbie. i used $6 metal snips from harbor frieght. i used a norco roller and thick plastic flattener (from mod podge). and if you are removing the vapor barrier butyl tape, 90% isopropyl alcohol or goo off managed to clean that black sticky stuff quite easily. bicycle tire tools worked better that trim tools to pop the clips to remove the door panels. it took 3 sheets of dynamat to cover the back doors and rear hatch (small car). it took 2.5 sheets to do the front doors. with just the doors covered (not the floor/roof), i noticed my music volume is maybe 3 steps lower (than before) on the freeway. was it worth spending $200? yes because i commute on the freeway everyday. i choose dynamat because it was heavier and maybe it takes more energy to vibrate. i really don't know whether weight or thickness is more important in reducing noise. hope that helps.
Helped me chose a brand, tanks!
Well done. Very helpful. I think Kilmat is right for my van project. I just wish it was offered in rolls as waste of pre-cut sheets seems a problem.
Rolls reduce effectiveness.
I found it to be exactly the opposite
So much easier to handle a “piece”
than to try to maneuver a roll in tight areas
I unfortunately had to go with what I could afford. And in this case the cheapest of them all was The Fat Matt Rattle Trap. I picked up two full rolls for less than the price of one. Yeah I know it's going to cause more heat in my vehicle in the hot summers. That part kind of sucks but I need to get rid of some road noise and exhaust noise along with keeping some of the rattles down.
Missed NVX SOUND DAMPENING .
Awsome results
EXCELLENT, thanks.
Fantastic review! Kilmat may have just gotten the biz for my 1984 VW Westy. Need a couple more opinions and I am off the the races prior to paint. Thanks!
Awesome! Let us know how it turns out!!
I’m going to run the Kilmat in my 87 VW Syncro! Cheers man!
Hi every single product is HVAC material you can get 2 big rolls at pace supply and or home Depot. Then you can customize the length x width. Limited to the width. Just maybe the purple stuff put on top of this might keep soud out. God bless you .
Great I just turn my Hyundai into a Mercedes-Benz
I'm trying to turn my Toyota tacoma into a Bentley.
years ago I quieted my Dodge truck down a total of 10 dBs and it was worth every cent when I drove it to have it nice and quiet as well as cooler inside also.
My tucson is loud af and now when i have studded tyres it´s bananas
@@belthagor03 You are putting yourself in discomfort with the anticipation that one day if that day ever comes, you will drive on black ice for 5 seconds and not slide into a sidewalk while going 5km an hour because that's as fast as you could go before it go out of control. Makes me wonder why we pay for insurance. Been using blizzak for 10 years now and they are the most confident inspiring driving tires, best of all you can not hear them.
Im turning my Kia Rio into an Audi!!
excellent review and thank you.
Damping material is just the first part of a 3 part 'system' for soundproofing a car. There is nothing "optimal" about 50% coverage. This is just a point where a group of people agree to settle for "good enough". It is in many cases a point of diminishing return. 100% coverage is better than 50% coverage... but that last 50% of coverage doesn't result in the same amount of effectiveness as the first 50% of coverage.
Damping material in applied to the metal to lower the resonate frequency.
Then you need a decoupler. This is the second part of this 'system'. Closed cell foam is sold in the car audio industry as a decoupler. There is nothing magical about it. It is just a simple product that has a huge mark-up because it is targeted to a niche market. You can find any closed cell foam and use it as a decoupler. The best option I have used for MANY years is Reflectix. It is a double layer of 'bubble wrap' in an alumanized layer. It's an amazing decoupler that provides great thermal properties.
For the final part of a proper "Sound Deadning" project is MLV (Mass Loaded Vinyl) with a minimum weight of 1lb/ft². On this layer the MLV MUST BE 100%. Tape all seams. This layer of MLV is what actually "blocks" the sound.
Good stuff man thanks.
Do you have any test reports to back up your claims? Everyone in the audio industry claims one thing and the reports show otherwise. ESPECIALLY the car audio industry. I am sure you do not even know of the test reports done in California I believe in the 90's that showcased what wall structure was the best at stoppind sound.
Yes you may be basing it on "theory". However, what you are suggesting is probably so negligible that is not even worth doing.
Mate, can you tell if the MLV is installed over the mat and closed cell foam or seperately?🤔
@@neilneil4021 MLV is installed over the mat and closed cell. Mat goes on the metal surfaces, closed cell over that to decouple the MLV from the mat. Then the MLV is installed. Over all of this you would then install the carpet. (Assuming you are doing the floor plan of a car)
@@catmanisgod8200 i am going wiht Noico mat, and reflectix closed cell as per your suggestion, then adding the MLV over it. any suggstions for goof MLV?. This is for the floor plan of the car. Now, do i would be doing roof of the car as well. for that NO MLV, right? as it wont hold up there and for doors as well. So, only mat for doors and roof, or should add closed cell to doors and roof as well? Thanks a ton
Thank you for the review and opinion. I have a question: do similar vibration materials of comparable thickness have a noticeable difference compared to, for example, Amazon Prime vibration protection? Are there alternatives to Amazon that are cheaper than their branded product? I would pay more attention to eco-friendliness than other factors. The material may emit harmful substances when heated. Thank you
Noico doesn’t have a smell and you don’t have to use gloves. I’ve installed it in multiple vehicles now. The biggest gains I’ve seen are from pulling headliners and doing the roof. Your floor already has carpet with sound deadened most times so you don’t have nearly as much from adding a shit load of sound deadening to it as you’d thing. Rear seat panels, package trays, truck cab real walls etc give you the most noticeable gains in my opinion. Slap your hand against things and see if it sounds like a dull thud or like you’ve just smacked a piece of gutter piping. Easy way to find things that need sound deadening.
Thanks for sharing! 🙂
I wanna go with the Killmat but I just LOVE the BLACK no label Appearance of the Noiko Mat... It looks VERY STEALTHY and Surely gives a CLEAN Factory Look... Of course nobody's Going to see it, but DEFINITELY for the Underside of some trunk lids ho with the Noiko Black because not all undersides of Factory Trunk lids have a carpeted or plastic trim...
I was actually thinking about Rhino Lining the insides of my door skins, rear quarter panels and trunk lid, trunk, roof, etc 1st (Hercules was the best quality that was tested by Project Farm believe it or not), and then going with the 50 mill, as the perfect combination...
Waiting for Killmat to make a Black NO label Clean look edition like the Niko Mat and ill be sold... Until then Ill have to use the Niko on the undersides of my trunk lid...
Speaking of bed liner roll on type stuff... There is also the Rubberized Undercoatings... The Professional Industrial Rubberized Undercoating that KBS makes, and Professional Industrial Rubberized Undercoating that Rust-Oleum makes are BOTH VERY NICE!...
Would you recommend that to apply in tight crevices that you can't get these Mat products into?
I know I paint my inner fender wells with the KBS Rust Seal, then there Asphalt Roll on and spray on for Tight nooks and cranny crevices, then I finish off with a coat of either the KBS Rubberized Undercoating or go with The Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoating, as they both are fantastic! Never hear any rocks hitting inside the fender wells anymore as it dampenings them TO NON EXISTENCE IN NOISE! COMPLETELY CANCELS IT OUT!!! Alongside this combination on the Inner frame Rails and rocker panels where rocks like to kick up as well!
Also would love for you to do a segment including SoundShield and Hushmat
great video! thank you
I bought some kilmat as my base layer and some noico foam for my second layer. I am starting in the back seat and will eventually get to the front and then the roof. I need to do the back because I got an exhaust and the drone is a little too much for me. I bought one 36sq ft kilmat and medium thick noico foam and one 20sq ft thick foam
I was thinking about that did it work well with heat to
I was thinking about doing this ,did it work good to keep the heat out and did it smell
@@brendentaylor8976 no smell, I don't know about heat, I only did the backseat. I plan on doing the rest of the truck soon.
Great video man. Very informative. Congrats.
Thanks 😊
I used 80mil Kilmat and 80mil noico closed cell foam sheets . My truck is so quiet now .
Happy to hear! Thanks for sharing!
How about the heat and smell I was thinking of doing the same thing
@@brendentaylor8976 sorry for the late response. No smell at all, I’m in Boston where we have 90 degree summers and Freezing winters. About 3 months ago I pulled my door panels and everything is still perfect.
Restomod Air has a product called Membrane that is like Dynamat but has another layer of foam and aluminum
wow i just replaced all the peel and stick mats with LizardSkin Sound Control, much easier and faster. I was amazed at how much condensation the mats allowed. I think my truck is actually more deaden than before. If your going to do a test include it all.
I did Lizard Skin all over the underbody & wheel wells of my car, liked it alot... So you liked it more than the regular mat stuff? ...any specific differences?
great vid and a +1
ty for your time grate video
Oh god. Those installs.
Excellent sound deadener is polystyrene. This is what Hefty picnic plates are made from. You cannot scream thru a .250 thick sheet of this stuff. It has a few problems tho. Its brittle and sensitive to heat over 250 f.
Hush Mat FTW !
Does anyone do an actual decibel test?
Great infor thnks
Great video love the research that went into this
Great video it has helped me so much in my search for heat and sound issues with my van dog house.
Not In a older jeep lol. But it does help
torch and rag works better than roller for me. get it hot and it REALLY sticks good. set it in the sun and do it in the afternoon when m car is hot as fk. been using sillless, seems to be the same as killmat.
Thanks for the feedback!!
BTW Good vid and Liked.
They got some called Mat 66 now for 29,99$ for 80mil 24sq ft on amazon .. it’s cheaper then these
Thomas S I just bought some of this and will be using it in my truck today. I have nothing to compare it to so I hope it works well. I opened the box and there's no noticeable smell, so that's good.
Glenn Robertson nice i wanna get some also .. how do you like it so far ? Is it pretty thick or heavy ?
Glenn Robertson I’d also like to know
There’s something quite satisfying about putting down Dynamat.. but the price is insane.
Any soundproofing is better than no soundproofing anyway & it can be quite rewarding after all the effort.
6:13 that roler is always separately I think. I haven't seen one included anywhere even the very expensive stuff from stp doesnt include it
thanks
most cars shown in this video have the sound deadener (panel resonance reducer) over applied. 100% coverage is not necessary w/a deadener product; 50% is optimal. Deadener products do not block sound as that is up to other products. Yes, deadener may block a tiny bit but its main function is to remove resonance from metal/plastic panels; hence why Dynamat's in-store demo of their product is a service ring bell. The bell w/o dynamat pings whereas the one w/Dyanmant thunks. This is most definitely a so-so 'guide' and not a how-to...
Coverage depends on the product. I think Resonix you can do as little as 25%, its 100 mils thick and is really top tier stuff. Regardless, adding more isn't just wasted, but you get diminishing returns so it becomes less cost efficient to proceed to 100%
@@zacharymcgraw3132 ...true statements...yes, more means diminishing returns and first layer was the most effective. deadeners, in general, get lumped in with other sound isolators/proofing, and they were never meant to cover 100% of an area. there are many different types and thicknesses out there and ppl have to do their research. Some have CCF attached, some some MLV, some have foil backing, but few have all of the layers. Different types are used in different areas, but people don't want to mess with 3-4 different materials and spend the extra money for the right product, so they buy cheap and use twice as much. But videoes like this make people think 100% coverage is necessary, and it isn't.
This isn't a how to guide to begin with. He's simply laying out a few good options for sound deadening
@@K03sport also if someone automatically think 100% coverage is necessary and never asked any questions, then they probably deserve the loss in money.
What other products would be paired with this to block sound?
What’s the best one for 6th gen Camaro??
thank you for posting this. I am going to be converting a box truck and will not be in the box when driving so sound will only be an issue for privacy and comfort while camping. . I think my box is about 8X7X 14 so there is 318 sq feet of walls and roof.... if I covered it at 25% that would be about 75 sq ft. About $2 a sq ft makes $150.... probably worth it if there wasnt another way.... I have an almost unlimited free source of aluminum or mylar foil plastic bubble huge bags that are ,if opened into sheets , about 3 'by 6' and I think maybe sprayed or brushed contact cement would do same result for just a few bucks.... I am not thinking a fire is going to happen or if it did it would outgas any worse... If I am missing something please let me know. I would be doing heat insulation on top of it anyway..... and am more worried about moisture collection and rust but the box metal is aluminum so not likely to rust.... right?? Thanks for any comments ( besides how cheap can you get. I know that is a thing but I am living on social security and trying to save enough to leave the kids something more than I got.
regarding your great video if i want the best of sound aborbtion for road noise and the best for audio system this dosent matter if is more expensive, if i understand well is Dynamat right ? just want the best dosent matter the price or the timeand dificulty installation :)
🤤It matters for people who don’t have your $$$
@@chrishaan5766 your answer have no sence, dosent help.. what i ask is what is the best if the money dosent count thats all. for the others they can ask there questions right ? then...
WHAT???
Read your text and try again
@@chrishaan5766 i start my question with : IF "I" WANT... And i ask the youtuber not you. Listen kid (i hope for yourself and people in your life you are a kid...) go do something interesting in your life. Regarding your comments you are not here to help people. They are more intersting things to do in life than your sick game wasting your time and ours with usless comments. If you are not able to answer then dont answer. This way of comments just show you are a kid or someone with big frustration in life... Bye
Hey Fraizer
My 7 year old “kid” has a much better grasp of the English language than you
Go back to school take an English class and learn how to speak the language
Reading your comments is like listening to someone talk with marbles in their mouth
Then “YOU” might have something of value to add
I’ll bet it’s someone else in your life who wants the sound deadening in the vehicle because actually listening to you speak while being stuck in that vehicle with you must be insane
Remember your never to old to finish your education
Good luck to you
Sounds good im guessin im get a few box of killmat 😁
Awesome! Let us all know how it works out!!
@@soundproofguide indeed will do
@MineSweeper of course I do it again if I could
what is there is a large liquid spill in the car or rain water gets in and soaks the carpet. will this affect Killmat? Will it rust or otherwise cause problems?
great job on explaining the difference of these products. Question - I'm using this on my RV, and was going to put it under the bottom (since it's completely finished inside). Wanted to see your thoughts about if I would get a benefit of both sound and weather insulation (being installed under the RV). And.. which of the 4 would you recommend (think the Asphalt base one is out).
If you are doing an interior panel use a USA brand butyl. Kilmat, siless, fatmat all cheap deadening will have asphalt, even if it says it’s just butyl. After the butyl layer, use a closed cell foam liner for additional sound absorption and insulation. Spend extra on a good real butyl layer and then you can go with a cheaper closed cell foam to save $. And buy a roller. You’re going to be rolling for hours, so I suggest to spend extra on a quality roller as well. I’m saying all this from years of experience installing.
you would be better off using a spray on liner. before the liner is sprayed on make sure you clean the underside completely. and ensure its dry. spray por15 to seal and convert any rust. then spray on the liner. not doing any of this will result in trapped moisture and rust
What about flashing tape from home depot?
I've never owned a "high end " vehicle but for a chevy Colorado it works just fine!
Meh. Doesnt stick too well. I did a trunk with it once and had less than great results
@@djvee1024 Protecto Wrap, Pella Factory or Tyvek (DuPont) tapes will certainly hold up. The cheap flashing tapes are a joke.
Dude.... you skipped adding in soundqubed? Best of the best for price/quality!!
Huge
what do you think about Modigt?
Quick question, I've installed the foil close cell foam type mat in my car and have been told by someone that the foil is going to cause rust from condensation build up.
I quote...
"I only have concerns about water condensation underneath it I've pulled loads of that stuff off cars and there's always rust on the panel joints"
Is This true in your knowledge?
how do these options compare to spray foam (not for the floor, but for the walls/doors)
I just came across butyl version of Fatmat on Ebay.
Hey what about STP? I plan to install one to hopefully lessen the drone from my exhaust.
How about actually installing and testing temp from the outside also?
Video series on that coming up in January 😊
Nice
what a great video man, thanks, so many options, this really helps decide
Glad to hear! Let me know what you ended with and how it works for you! 😉
Can you bedline over the killmat for soundproofing, I have a Jeep and would like better sound but want to keep it waterproof.
I have a jeep too.. I was planning on putting bedrug over the kilmat.. Is that what you were thinkin too?
The bedliner will do the same job as these mats. All they do is dampen the vibration of the sheetmetal. No need wasting money on this stuff if you're going to spray in a liner.
What is the appropriate quantity to completely insulate a Peugeot 301 car, roof, floor, trunk, engine cover, doors and wheel cover
So which so I go with kilmat or dynamat
@ 8:00 minutes.... Somebody takes the time and effort required to sound deaden their car, but doesn't mind driving around with a windshield that is freaking split in half right across the drivers field of view ! Really ? WTF ! That would drive me ef'ing crazy !
Do you know of any third party testing of these mats for actual frequencies suppressed?
have you ever tested second skin sound deadener?
I’ve never tried second skin. Let me know your experience with it if you’ve tried it.
What is the best for installing in engine bay. I want to cut the noise for my diesel engine car. Plz reply, i need to know b4 installing.
I would like to know; if there are any adverse effects to these soundproofing products when I have my yearly Krown rust protection? also can it be applied after it has already been sprayed?
Play safe from ElliotLake, Ontario, Canada
much appreciated kind sir!