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Congratulations on your upcoming puppy! I'm glad you are finding the videos helpful. You might consider getting my book, Tips and Tales On Training Your Bird Dog, from Amazon. It may help with early training and circumvent mistakes. Thanks for the nice message. Have fun with that puppy, George

@@georgedecostaandthehunting7629 Thanks you, we will get this ordered.

That's fantastic to hear, Brandon. Congratulations to both of you!

Thanks. Yep, when that bird exploded in the air, he had to go! But that was at the start, moving forward he did great. Thanks for the comment. George

I'm so glad you are enjoying the book and finding it helpful. And congratulations on your upcoming pup! You and your wife are in for a lot of fun times together. If you have time, I'd really appreciate a review on Amazon. The reviews help others to see that the book is meaningful and helpful. Thanks much, and again, congratulations on your upcoming pup; you are starting off correctly by learning before your puppy enters your home; good for you! George

Whoa training without birds, but he has also pointed a lot of birds in training prior to this. After he is rock steady on this drill, we'll put the point and the steadiness together. If you don't have my book, Tips and Tales On Training Your Bird Dog, you might consider getting it. The book details the sequence and goes over all the techniques. Thanks for the comment; I'm sorry I didn't see it earlier. George

Thanks Ryan. Hunting season is over, so I'm starting to train again. I'll be adding more videos throughout the training season. I hope you enjoy them, thanks again, George

That's a good question for the podcast series that Robert Poe is doing on my book. I'll have him add that question to an upcoming podcast. Here's the podcast series. You might enjoy it, George podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/tips-and-tales-podcast/id1637207283

@@georgedecostaandthehunting7629 Thank you Sir! Right now I keep a couple of quail in a small pen. I tie 4' lengths of Christmas ribbon to their legs, then let them flush. I watch where they go down, then I use the ribbon to police them up. Works pretty well, but I sure would like something better.

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the nice comment. George

The inside is slippery, but the outside has some texture.

I will tell my dogs to fetch when they go out for a bird after the shot in the field. I don't enforce the fetch; I'm just letting the dog know to go out on the command fetch. If they bring the bird back, great; if not, no problem. No pressure in the field until FF is complete. Once FF is complete, the retrieve will be enforced. No, I don't do any other games until FF is completed. I have 5 videos on FF that show my complete process. I will not be posting anymore on FF. I may post other videos.

Some Sport Dog e-collars have a programing setting for Low, Medium, High. What I mean by this is you can be on setting 1, but it is on setting 1 high. Or you can be on setting 1, which is setting 1 low. Also, Sport Dog has models for "stubborn" dogs; I can't remember what they call them. Those models are of higher stimulation than the standard model. Check your instruction manual to see if your model has that type of programming, maybe you can lower the mode. If that is not the case I would look for an e-collar that has much more of a range. Hope this helped, George

So glad you are enjoying the book and learning a lot. Thanks very much for the feedback, George

Sorry Sandy, I did not. We were pretty busy that weekend. I grabbed my camera for this video at the end of the weekend because I felt sure Gus would rock it, and I didn't have to focus on him as much. If you haven't gotten my book, you might consider reading it. I go over my sequence to establish pointing; it may help. Again sorry, but this is the only video of those sessions. George

Thanks Kyle, I appreciate the kind words, George

That's vet wrap, sometimes called co-flex.

So glad you are enjoying the book. Thanks for the nice message. It means a lot to me when folks let me know what I'm doing is helping them and their best friend. George

I started with duck tape and didn't like it. It does not stretch, and I have more control with putting on the electrical tape. It forms to the dog's leg and doesn't need to be put on too tight. I switched from duct-tape years ago. But to each their own. Thanks for the input, George

Frozen birds could help. There's an old saying the harder the item, the softer the mouth. It would be a long post to go over several techniques here. If you like my videos, you might like my new best-selling book on Amazon: Tips and Tales On Training Your Bird Dog. There's a chapter in the book on hard mouth. Forced Fetch can help, but your pup is still pretty young. Check out all the tips in the book and let me know if I can help: www.amazon.com/Tips-Tales-Training-Your-Bird/dp/B09RCHSXFX

Hopefully in just a couple of weeks. Thanks for checking. It will be available on Amazon. I'll post a video on it when it's out.

I just got back from Kansas and Oklahoma, hunting pheasant and quail. Sorry for the late response. If you are primarily a waterfowl hunter and not much of an upland hunter, then getting your pup on ducks the first year is probably good for your. But... if you want a really steady pointing dog it's a good idea to get it on lots of birds that it has to point before using it on waterfowl. (This is a general statement for Griffs and some other versatile breeds.) Here's what I often see happen. Griffs love to please their owner. They bond quickly and closely to their hunting companion and will try to do what they think their hunting companion wants. Waterfowl hunting is almost all retrieving and sitting still. Your pup stays close to you and then your send it for the retrieve. When it makes the retrieve you give it lots of praise. As you should. If you haven't instilled the search and point in your pup before all those retrieves a Griff will many times believe the retrieve is what makes you happy and what is primary to the hunt. So, when you take your dog out to the uplands it stays close and when it gets to the bird instead of holding its point, it thinks, I'll just grab this bird and take it to my best friend, that what he likes. Now you have a pup that wants to take the bird out instead of holding steady until the flush. IMO, it's important to establish that the point is primary and the retrieve secondary with a Griff. So, upland first and then waterfowl... in most cases. Hope this made sense.

Thank you...