Відео

great explanations and presentation. Thanks for loving your job, which makes it enjoyable for me listening!

I have imprint on the free hub pockets from the inner ring.

Is the axle of pro 5 and pro 4 interchangable?

Looking at these or i9 hydra. Can you give me any pros or cons ?

Thank you for this clear explanation!

Oh haha i think your wheels are a little out of my budget for restoring a vaguely bicycle-shaped piece of rust i rescued from a skip, and being all the way across the planet doesn't help! But you've easily convinced me you that you might be the best at this far and wide.

Incredible explanation

in my opinion it's a lot sophisticated, compared to a 350 from DT, but the pro5 is the only one rear hub available in 12x142mm with 36 spoke holes..

Do you think the fr541 would still provide comfort versus a carbon rim?

I'm looking for a 350 hub but in 36 holes version, and there is one : the dt swiss 350 "HYBRID" 🤣 does it really matter ? does it suit a gravel trekking bike (non electric) ?

I have a. Ebike. Always spoke. Back. Have avaton. Soulter. Where at. Shop

I have a DT370 ratchet hub on my Pivot Switchblade and I thought I was big pimpin', lol. Entry level, but it's got a nice and quiet 18t ratchet in it with straight-pull spokes, so it looks good. If I had new wheels built, I'd have a hard time not going with 350 hubs. They just seem nice a reliable/strong while not really being heavy.

Dt swiss 350 does it suits for gravel/trekking/travel use?

DT's DEG hub service video shows the driver body seal being removable/replaceable. Not sure how available it will be though.

THX 4 VIDEO

I have seen no hubs fail as much as industry nine. Probably 5-6 catastrophic failures in the past 8 years. I have seen the hub flanges crack free of the hub body, ratchet rings cracking and getting stuck, pawl springs cracking and of course, axle failures. I would love for these hubs to be strong but the reality is, they are not.

Should I use FR541 for front in a DH bike that's being used extra aggressively ? I got a dent in the previous rim FR950, hitting a rock, enough for air to start leaking.

So then I go for the 350! Thanx for the awesome detailed explenation! :D

Odd they went with XD and not XDR. This rules the hub out from gravel duties with Sram XPLR cassettes.

.Cost of straight pull spokes is more the j pull

Thanks for your video! So i can put my 12 speed shimano 105 onto this? And it’ll be able to use all 12 gears? Looking to upgrade wheels to dt Swiss 1600.

you mention exp bearing life how much difference is there from the original 2 floating ratchet models?

What are these rims for a mountain bike gravel bike. Can you put them on a lightweight e-bike? Will they fit a Trek EXE

I`ve been building EX511 32h wheels for both my DH and trail bikes for the last 10 years. Just built up a new set for my DH bike and the old ones lasted me 3 whole seasons. I don`t feel the need to go for the heavier FR541 at all. Thanks for the comparison btw.

Great video! It would be cool to see a deep dive into the new one-up hubs

My spokes always brake off in the nipple rendering a tool like this useless.

Thanks for the review. Do you notice higher freehub drag with the DEG? I've heard reports of that.

1:20 at this point you do a undercut (din 509), radius of 0.3mm should be enough to make it a lot stronger - I wonder why this is not done properly, if I understand this correctly, this gets educated in the first semester of mechanical engineering studies - I learned it in a side thingy in electrical engineering, so I am not 100% sure, but I really think that these are mistakes on basic levels I really rather use DT Swiss hubs were you know that they get these things right anyways, because othervise nobody would use their parts as oem parts

Great video, personally I'm unconvinced they're worth it (but I'm more of a "if it ain't broken don't fix it" guy) To me these loss DTs main selling point for: interchangeability & reliability (to be proven). If I'd want to go for high engagement I'd probably aim for a pawl style hub (or Onyx sprag clutch if money was no object). My fairly basic 102t Nukeproof Horizon V2 hub has been super solid thus far.

Thanks for the info. I'll stick with the rohloff.

Great video. I wasn't aware there's a bearing life compromise on the EXP hubs. I have three sets of EXP hubs, with one set still new. On one hub I could feel a click or two while turning the end cap with my fingers. Not the usual notchy bearing feel. The 'click' goes away when I apply pressure on the end caps while turning it. Do you know if this is an early sign of a bearing failure? This is on a front hub (240) so presumably it has nothing to do with the EXP design. Thank you.

Excellent video! In my opinion, the current DT350 (SP CL) with 36T Star Racthet is by far the best hub on the market.

First class video and information. No annoying muzak and stupid cartoon clips. It looks as though many Chinese brands are taking advantage of the expired DT ratchet patent and making improvements as well. Ratchets (up to 64t) are now available based on the initial design but have no shoulder providing a better spring interface and use of a slightly longer parallel spring/s. Some are using a single spring similar to the EXP but the inner ratchet is still held within a ring nut and as such both ratchets move with the axis of the axle. They also seem to stick to the original 6902 bearings (15x28x7) rather than the smaller diameter 15x26x7. By continuing with a two piece ratchet as per the original design, it makes it easier to replace them because as you say it is a wearable and as such a replaceable part. Some of them recommend a 500Km service interval for their ratchets.

Thank You for this video, I've been waiting for it. I would also like to ask you to discuss the new OneUP hubs ;) And I'm waiting for a heavier, but hopefully stronger version of the 350 DEG with larger bearings, and HG freehub.

I hate the trend of shaving weight by going with smaller bearing. I'll stick with my 240s non-exp for as long as possible.

Great analysis. As someone who spent 30 plus years in industrial maintenance issues related to machine shop work on say pump shafts and failures related to stress risers from sharp transitions were addressed by changing the machining to eliminate those sharp edged cuts. Since most cartridge bearings do not have sharp edges but have slightly radiuses edges simply matching axle radius to the bearing edge radius should make a difference. Requires mod to machining not sticking a washer in the critical location.

remember when we had 20mm front axles on mtbs, then shimano and fox teamed up to make 15mm axles... something about weight reduction, but in reality it was to get center lock else the tool to install would be too big. in reality mtbs should have stuck with 20mm, and road should go to 15mm... but it will be 12mm because bike industry needs to sell

Contacted I9 about the updated axle since I was replacing all the bearings and they sent me the axle and kit no questions asked. First time on Hydra and I’m liking it, but I also have a wheel set with Onyx so it’s not that much difference in the engagement. I have had the pawl hang up a little… my wheel set is $1800 Ibis carbon so no complaints. I prefer instant engagement because of the trails I ride it helps a lot and I’m disabled and getting older and need all the help I can get, but that doesn’t mean I’ll get an e-bike. Thanks for the video!

Great explanation & love the fact that you include all of the messurements. This makes the explanations even clearer. Thanks.

Interesting video! The dimensional differences are smaller than I expected. I am looking into a hand made wheelset to replace my stock wheels, as I am a heavy rider (108kg). I don't break wheels often, but most issues I have had with my mountain bikes are things like broken spokes, bent axles or out-of-wack freehubs. I've rarely had rim damage though - likely in part due to running relatively high pressures to support my weight. As I ride mostly XC and trail, with the very occasional bike park lap, I am looking mostly at the lighter end of the spectrum, so probably XM481 with maybe an EX511 on the rear. Also, having a lot of red color accents on my bike, the DT swiss logo would complement this very well 😂

Thank you (only) 6minutes and very clear and to the point as good as it gets

Thoughts on reliability and durability, ease of service.

Thoughts on durability & ease of service compared to exp and dt swiss classics (not sure if that's the correct name, referring to the models which have springs on both sides)

Great Video, I'm interested in what the finish of the rim is like. I have EX1700's off a Transition Spire Carbon and the rims(mostly the back) are cosmetically terrible, it must be from sealant and lube, but nothing will clean them up, drives me nuts. Do the FR541 have more of a gloss finish? Cheers

Thanks

I am running shimano ultegra 11 speed group set. Planning to buy a new wheelset shimano duraace 9270 and shimano says that this wheelset is only compatible with 12 speed. Can I use it with my existing 11 speed ultegra group set?

Bruh... I wouldn't call 9g off the axle a "massive weight savings"

These would be great with 1)steel rims, for better compliance and durability than carbon, the weight should be mitigated by the virtually weightless cord spokes. 2)electric hub wheels, lots of compliance to protect the motor, which is great because hub driven bikes should be hardtails anyway, otherwise the wheel flys everywhere on the swing arm like grandpa jogging without a jockstrap. They are the lightest spokes on the market, regardless of the compliance, not anymore expensive than anything else if you lace the wheel yourself, and Berd is a solid American company.

OK so they make noise while free wheeling? And no spare parts available? OK thank you, Onyx Vesper it is!

Has anyone found statistically which brands of tires cause problems? the rims can be measured to the nearest cent when they come out of the mold and there is a precise common standard to be respected. for tyres, on the contrary, there is no standard yet, the hookless coupling tolerance is the most important aspect to avoid these dangers ( second one 80s vintage pressures at 8 atm) a well-known Italian cotton rubber declared hl compatible goes on a rim with just one hand, it will clearly come off with the same ease or worse after use, same for some continental years 2020-21 now modified and within very tight, suitable tolerances. circumferences of tyre rings were measured with differences of up to 1.5 cm in total! how can we talk about a system that should be abandoned without a coupling rule? as long as tire manufacturers have differences beyond the conceivable, system safety will not be proposed. 15 years ago the same MTB route, now standardized although without the push of common rules.