Відео

Thanks for making this video, it helps me out to see someone else do the work before I start working on it myself.

Thanks. I will try what I watched you do. 🤞🤞

I like your comments as you proceed with your repair.Since I’m 78, I’m allowed a few damits. Other than that, it could have been me. Each time I try something like this, it’s trials and error. Mine is ‘86 S10 Blazer located under the alternator. Great video for an old man to follow.

I have a 2000 lt133 that I inherited from my Daddy. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, carburetor (ordered from Amazon). Still no fuel delivery. I took the fuel tank off and replaced the fuel line pickup for the gas. The stopper was a little degraded. Does anyone have anything else that I can try. My husband wants to just get a new mower but I have been mowing with this one since my dad died 6 years ago. Thank you.

My mower is 20 years old and I replaced the belt once already. I have to replace it again, but I always like using the genuine belt. Apparently Toro does not sell this belt anymore. So I will have to rule the dice with an off-brand belt.

Hey JC, what kind arbor press, model # and where did you purchased?

Ok, here is some critical information, for those of us, with an electric/pull start system, and the black battery box on the deck of the mower. Ok, YES, there is a bolt underneath the box. But, it is towards the back of the mower, and you will see a slightly raised section of the box, that does not touch the deck, but sit's above it, about 1/4-3/8". The bolt you have to access is, literally in that notch, towards the backside of the black box/mower. And, I have found, that the box is riveted to the deck. So, for full access, you will have to rip the box off of the top of the deck, revealing 2 of the 3 bolts, as the 2nd bolt is, along the left side of the black battery box, just underneath the side front corner. But, if you are able to remove all of the plastic covers off of the back, including the flapper, for the bag. As, the top of the flapper for the bag hatch, is literally what has you blinded from seeing the bolt in the first place, besides the battery box itself. And, since I can't start it with the key anymore(Long story short, the cable harness was ripped out of the key starter switch, and ruined it), so it's pretty useless to me, at the moment. So, I decided to just rip the black box itself off. Which, made it much more simpler to access all 3 bolt's, for the plastic belt guard underneath. Also, it is a good idea to take a plastic bag(Walmart bags will do fine), and use it underneath the gas cap, by taking the cap off, then draping the bag(Double layer, by using whole bag) over the open hole, then screw the cap back on, and you now have a sealed gas cap, from leaking...

I've been watching all of your s10 videos you are a godsend my friend

Hello from Calgary, Found an old 1984 Case 448 in barn. I thought the belts were 9/16 wide. Seen it on another video.

Awesome video. I had been following another one, but when I got to the pulley, the mower they had didn't have that assembly around the pulley that yours (and mine) have, so I was lost. You helped me get the rest of the way through!

I don't ever comment on videos but thank you for panning around the bottom of it 😂 i wanted to see the solenoids

Is saw #4 supposed to rattle like that when the blade comes to a stop ?

Very helpful, thank you.

I have same engine on a toro wheel horse...doesn't seem like I'm burning oil but I'm definitley leaking oil onto the hot exhaust...I also have evidence of oil leaks everywhere...on the head...valve cover...all around the sump...etc...I'm assuming it's the same issue you have...head gasket causing overpressurized crankcase

Ariens!

How much oil does the older rototiller, 7 horse sirens tiller take? 6:42 a.m

Great video! Thanks for taking the time to set up each angle!

I'm glad it ran well after all that effort

I had to replace the battery in my Jump N Carry 660 recently and I noticed they don't give you much room to move things around inside the case. Its easier to pull the battery out, remove and reattach your connectors then set the battery back in. Also I had to go from the vertical threaded peg to the spade terminals with horizontal holes. Had to buy my own bolts and bend a bunch of connections to make everything fit properly. It was a hassle. But it also saved me 60 dollars instead of buying a whole new jump starter.

I have this exact machine. When running, it works wonderfully for shredding leaves and turning 3" (or less) into chips. We moved from a house to an apartment. This machine has been sitting in a garage for 6+ years. I got it out to help a friend with storm damaged trees. I didn't think that it would run, and I was correct. I bought a carb rebuild kit. Here's my problem (if it is a problem); I replaced and cleaned everything. A video that I watched showed how to do this. The thin flapper gasket definitely needed to be replaced. I removed the old one. According to the video that I watched, there is a spring under the flapper. Mine does NOT have one. I bought the machine new and this is the first time that the carb has been removed. Do we need this spring? If so, how could my machine run for many years without without it?

You didn’t show how you put the studs back in by double nutting the studs. Just saying it would have been informative to someone that doesn’t know how.

I respect you sir

SIR I CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH FOR WHAT YOU TEACHED ME IN THIS VIDEO. All this information will be very helpful to me when restoring my swift this summer. THANK YOU VERY MUCH! 🙏🏿

Thank you for this vedio. I really didn't want to take my truck in for this. Now I know where to start

Belt size?

Gotta be running

Very detailed video. Great camera angles. Well done, new subscriber

Hello, thank you for the video. I have the same machine (pretty sure) I would love to know how the battery cables, starter, solenoid, wire harness that goes ignition switch are all wired. Any chance you could make another video or email me pictures? I can’t seem to figure it out and I would much rather turn a key versus yanking on the pull string. Would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks man! My Troy Bilt Horse’s pull start was beginning to act up but hadn’t completely failed yet. Didn’t have any screaming, grinding or other scary noises yet, it just wouldn’t grab hold and spin the motor. I was pretty sure it was just some dirt and/or rust giving me some grief and taking care of it sooner rather than later was a good idea. Watching your video was just what I needed and a nice “walk through”. Puller’s pullin’ good now! How could I not “like and subscribe”? Have a great day!

I have this same pressure washer. Was about to take it to trash and go back to electric. Only ran good for 2 years. Thanks for showing how to identify bad gas. Mine looked like lemonade. However, pretty disappointed with this Honda engine. Have a Troybuilt mower with a B&S engine, over 20 y/o has started right up every year with the same bad gas in it. My carb looked cleaner than this one. This is a very finicky engine, 1st and last Honda engine. Will go with HF predator small engines over Honda.

change those fuel lines

easy way to remove the window winder is to use a hanky, fold and insert between the round plastic guide and pull each way the hanky, it catches the metal clip and releases the winder

Engine is surging and is an easy fix. It's a clogged pilot jet.run a small wire through it and it should idle and purr like a kitten.

Thank you so much. Dealing with this issue today. Was making a grinding noise and almost no agitation...and yes, it spins both ways. Happy to have found this video. My Kenmore 80 series is 24 years old. I have fixed many things on it over the years thanks to videos like yours. Much appreciation!

My ztr Dixons brake won't release. It starts just fine. I have the brake on left by the seat. Can you help me?

nice tutorial, would have been nice to state the wrench sizes once determined. Also, don't forget to grease the blade spindles a few times during the season.

Very helpful. I just assumed the coupler was welded on.

I have that same MTD built unit but with the Briggs engine. I have rebuilt the worm gear auger drive box twice in it's lifetime and machined up replacement bronze axle bushings with grease fittings and provided a grease line and fitting for the impeller shaft rear bearing. The engine has never been apart and with the usual required carb maintenance it runs like a champ and tosses heavy wet snow while being close to 50 years old.

Love how this video looks like it’s from 2006 but it’s actually 2020

Check your hose connection, there is a top and bottom at the brake caliper connection. the bolt has a hole nearer the shoulder and the hole is offset inside the hose connector and they should line up before install.

I don’t think you needed to remove the belt guard?

Good job on repair

I’ve had 2 of these and they both burned out after about 4-5 years of use. Just seems to be its lifespan

So you make a how to video but you don’t show how you access the wiring to change the ignition,!!! Why did you bother bother? There’s nothing informative about this video. What a waste of my time.

Does anyone know what type of fluid to put back in this transmission transaxle whatever

This is my exact engine. Looks very similar to the replacement carburetor I replaced my original with. There are two screws on it similar to yours. Top silver one with the spring and a black screw. How much should they be tightened/adjusted? Initially it stuttered/hunted like yours did and I can't get the screw adjustment correct between the two. Any suggestions?

Great video you saved me, couldn't get the belt off the rear pulley. Toro tried to screw me with SQUARE head screws on the rear pulley but I pulled out a set of various tips purchased at Home Depot 30 years ago and found the correct one.

I was given a LT160 about 6 years ago that ran fine. I had to replace the hood pivot and it was easy to find one.

If you came here for reference pointers and very quickly determined YOU YOURSELF are more highly skilled than the guy in the video teaching people.....go ahead and smash that like button! These videos where the person is "all thumbs" crack me up! Lol And why are you using this big thick duckbill needle nose pliers for doing small intricate work? You know they make hemostat pliers and very fine tip precision needle nose pliers.

Where can I get this cable? Mine broke and I have been having trouble locating one for my John Deere 185 Hydro