Відео

@@frednetherlands887 good to hear. I think I work on these more than I ride them and never give the Valves a chance to get out of wack. LOL

@GhettoWrench my scooter now has 12000 km. The last valve lash job was 3000 km ago. It needed a valve lash setting for sure.

@frednetherlands887 oh wow. You ride the hell out of that thing. Like my truck gets all those miles.

@@DustySteel I heard about them. I prob need that. LOL

@GhettoWrench lol, that was my thoughts about my motor. I have an automatic decompression cam that I’m going to have to dial in the valve lash once I use it. This video helped clear things up because I get recommended different clearances for different cams, but have ended up going with stock settings.

@DustySteel cool

@jbr4dsher ya if your to the valve adjusting stage your tensioner is tensioning. Do you are good. I give way more detail on it in the 50cc big bore install video.

@Donbscooters757 The nibbi was WAY easier to tune and make work good out of the box than the PWK. As a matter of fact I ended up back to the exact jets that it came with. I just think the 19mm was too small and that is the only reason the CVK beat it. 21mm would be a perfect size.

@mgtowlevel5293 LMAO. I had the mclovin one on there but my low budget editing program would not recognize file.

@GhettoWrench LOL

@TheMidwestdrifter the one on the dash is a tachometer with digital speedo but ai disconnected all the wheel stuff so no speedo. The gauge on the handlebars is a GPS speedo off ebay.

@@TheMidwestdrifter oh ... and here is a link to that gauge I put on another bike ua-cam.com/video/99q-OAUWye8/v-deo.htmlsi=viGpWyhnX-s3mAIn

@@GhettoWrench thanks! I’ll check that out

@@GhettoWrench nice looking scooter!

@@RANDOMFIX there ya go. 70mph ua-cam.com/video/AOrwv1uusEk/v-deo.htmlsi=6tC_iqpCVuYnb1pK

@scootersonlyrepair6773 I could have had my viser closed and I think I was having microphone issues on that video and may have made it fake stereo from just sound on one side so that could be it too. I had just got a mic for the gopro. It was a learning curve. 🤣

@tainomario weird. I wonder if newer ones are not changeable. I know DOT import laws require the speedo to indicate higher than actual speed. Is it the speedo that came on it new? The one in my video I bought by itself as just a speedo.

​@@GhettoWrenchi have the manual and it says after you put the # you want just hold for 3 seconds and it will save but when I turn my bike off and back on it goes back to factory settings

@tainomario WTF. That ain't right then.

@@scootersonlyrepair6773 that's awesome

Yo bro how did you register it in California? I’ve tried doing that and dmv here in Compton won’t let me nor my insurance aaa won’t accept me. Let me know thank you! Mines has fake California plate but came that way when bought it lmk thanks

@ivanncastro man... no idea. I live in Florida. I thought you just took the title to the tag office and they gave you a plate. It was super easy here in florida. Website says it requires an "inspection", but they never even looked at it.

@ivanncastro man I have no idea what those wires go to once they go into that thing.

@ Deng sucks ok thanks bro ill try figure it out and post it on here

@LuisGallo-r2b pull the fuel hose off the carb and turn the key on. See if fuel flows out good.

So when I pull the hose out of the electric pump fuel comes out but when I put a hose from Pump to carb nothing seems to be going into carb .

@LuisGallo-r2b do this. I had to do it on a couple bikes. Turn pump on then open the fuel drain on the float bowl until fuel comes out then close it. I actually just had a pocket of air I guess. Who knows, but it worked. Other thing to try may be tapping the bowl as maybe the float is stuck in the high position. Did you work on carb? If so were the floats moving up and down freely?

I will try to open fuel drain and see if that works. I haven’t worked in the carb on all but I have a brand new pwk carb that I might just put on because I feel this oko one I have on now has been giving me issues since I bought it.. thank you for your help

@ivanncastro sounds like a couple of problems. Your bendix teeth or your flywheel teeth are worn out and the starter is just spinning and not turning the flywheel. That is a lot of resistance on the blue wire, but the bike needs to be cranking when you check it to see if is triggering the CDI to spark. Is the bike turning over? If you think the pickup coil (blue wire) is bad you can buy just the pickup coil on ebay and stuff. You have to spliceit into the wires coming off your coil.

@ odd thing is both Bendix and flywheel teeth are good I’ve checked them no grinding marks or anything out of the ordinary. The starter teeth are bad so I’m assuming the starter has power when not engaged but when trying to engage Bendix it jumps teeth when trying to start it cussing the grind/whining noise. Correct me if I’m wrong. How would I check to see if the cdi to spark? No the bike will not turn over electric nor kick start. I just ordered another stator will try replacing the entire unit hope that’s the problem instead of just doing the pick up coil alone. I’m still confused about no power reading on red wire and my rectifier works just fine I’m assuming because my headlight/turn signals and brake light work just fine if I turn the key on even the gauge. Question do you have the wiring harness diagram or know where to get one?

@ivanncastro you should be able to Google images a "GY6 wiring diagram". Your tail lights and such will work till that battery is dead. They take so little juice they will work after the battery is dead. Is your battery strong enough? A weak battery will spin the starter but not fast enough to kick the the gear out. A weak battery could be the issue on starting. That red wire will not give power until it is cranking. It feeds the CDI with the power the spark is going to use. The blue is just a trigger.

@@GhettoWrench okay I will look it up thank you! I don’t think it’s the battery as it’s a fairly new battery and voltage reading lowest is 12.4 and highest 13v but after cranking so many times it will drain it. I changed the stator from a 5 wire to a 4 wire no ground wire self grounded. Red wire on old unit had no power no cranking and cranking no power. New unit now has power red wire reads around 50v when cranking. I change starter and Bendix and now it does crank out good but won’t start. I checked cdi and all ohms readings and V reading looks good! Kill switch works fine. I always have very weak spark to no spark with a ch7 ngk plug. I tried 2 different plugs equivalent to ch7 stock plug no spark or very weak spark here and there but will disappear. 1 plug was new other one was old used one no luck. I ordered 2 ngk CR7hix plugs and new coil plug although I already checked 2 coil plugs both read around 0.4 ohms so assuming there both good and maybe it’s the plug that’s fouled getting them tomorrow so will try that out. If that’s not my problem I am super clueless. New starter,new Bendix, new Stator 4wire,new cdi,new rectifier although old ones worked fine all lights were bright, new carb fuel shoots out when cranked, motor has compression 150psi, checked power from rectifier, cdi and cdi to coil plug there continuity, and also tested 2 coil plug in 0.4 ohms and continuity. Tested all wires from stator all checked out and how red power wire has power which could have been my old problem but maddog 50cc would still run and charge but would occasionally shut off. It’s either the plug or don’t know what else it could be. I saw your video where the variator was stuck in high gear I haven’t checked that but I did inspect from out of the cvt case and looked fine but I will take everything apart and double check there. The tire spins freely and there is resistance when trying to turn the crankshaft gear. The scooter did turn on and was running on idle for around 30mins no problems. Anything over half throttle would bog out and loose power it would not go past 20mph before it would bog out and want to shut off. Fuel was good new carb new jets I was in the process of adjusting the carb still running. Shut off and I would electric start it again would start then shut off 3/4 times then no longer wants to start this was before changing anything but the carb since my pilot jet idle was clogged after the carb swap everything ran good for those 30ish mins. Even with the old starter motor and Bendix would grind but would start. The person I bought the scooter from also added and splice onto the speedometer gauge and cut all type of wires. I also have no fuel reading, no speed reading, no rpm reading, no mileage reading, only power to gauge turn blue and stays lit that’s about it. Wiring is jacked on this scooter essentially thinking about just changing the entire wiring harness. The ground is good also! And I’m not sure if any of the wires are causing a no start issue but I would assume not since it was running fine before and I haven’t messed with any of them other than checking for power. Any help would be appreciated and any option shoot them! I’m all ears thank you

@ivanncastro And you are sure you have fuel. When you drain the float, lots of fuel comes out. The level has to be pretty high to get to the pilot jet. I wonder why that jet clogged? You could have crap in the tank. Do you have a filter between the tank and carb?

Might have to go up 1 number on the jet

@workhard6445 well I'm doing 53 now. I have lost air filters before on rides and the bike runs like crap. I would need to tune it for that. Kinda scary running no filter with the tire tossing sand in the intake. Maybe just a thin piece of something like panty hose zip tied around it could work.

Oh I thought it had the plastic shield in front of the tire. 53 jeez that's awesome. My Riva 125 does 60

@workhard6445 my plastic shield keeps blowing our of the way. LOL. Worst design ever. I thought I was on to something till I got it up to speed. 😆

😆

@geraldscott4302 I know it seems weird to me too that the newest of new riders who get 50s don't need the MC endorsement when it is in fact a motor- cycle. Great info though. Thanks

@Hector_x3 I have no idea at this point. The online calculators don't work at all for me. Most likely because I am running such low fuel pressure as well as low NOS pressure. I ended up just drilling the holes larger then riding and drilling larger. So no idea what size my jets are now. I drilled the fuel until I got it to bog and then did the NOS until I could actually "feel" it. Very cave man.

@hershelshochter4703 😮😮😮 insanity. As our state's population increases and we are required to produce more millionaires to pay back politician's campaign donors I am sure we are not far away from that.

@@hershelshochter4703 oh.. where do you live?

@@GhettoWrench europe, we've been bled dry for decades with taxes and tribute payments. it's silly

@hershelshochter4703 we are right behind you.

Bicycles should be taxed. They don't belong on the road otherwise

@frednetherlands887 that does not sound like a good mix. Especially if the cars are all driving 10km faster than the limit like they do in the US.

@@GhettoWrench yes sir, indeed. I will spare you the further complications of Dutch traffic laws. Indeed, I and my scooter at 200 kgs are no match for a 1800 kgs family car. It happens frequently that older people still think mopeds legally have to be in the bike lane and try to 'push' one out of the car lane.

@cav3man360 oh LOL. I was way off. Typical AI Google answer. We don't need insurance in florida on motorcycles so I had no idea what it cost. Google must have quoted me full coverage.

😂 anything less than full coverage is worthless

@scootersonlyrepair6773 I never got full coverage on my sport bikes. Totaled them all. Thats how I learned to fix stuff. 😆 🤣

@@aristidestrada epic!

Texas is Same DL and insurance for 50cc so I ride 50cc

South ga resident here, yeah that's why I went with a 50. Plus all you need is like the title/bill of sale. Most cops around here don't care and can't tell between a 50 or 150

He’s a Trump supporter 😂 can’t wait till the last of his 4 years are over with and we don’t have to worry about him anymore

​@@Smodleekeep crying about it 😊

@robertmarquez9545 😆 yep! Aging myself there.

I have used the metal type that you are speaking of for many years without any issue. I have used these plastic type just the same. I think the main thing is to get the correct pressure that you need for the application you are using it for. I still have the metal pump on my 90 convertible Camaro. It's been working for 10 years. I don't drive the car that much any more but it was a daily driver for a year at least. Putting an over size psi pump is the main issue. If you use the correct size there shouldn't be any issue at all.

@ДмитрийКлепиков-к6х Holly makes a real nice one that is all metal and looks better and cheap. I actually had that same pump on that same bike and he rode it like that for a year with no issues. I stole the pump off his red bike to put on that white 50cc just to make a video and show it increased speed on the 50cc also. It has been there for 7 or so months with no issues. I just re purchased the same pump for the red one in that video. In the short time I had the vacuum pump on there the bike has been a nightmare to start.

​@@GhettoWrench It seems hit and miss with those vacuum pumps. Sometimes I get one that's acceptable with starting and others are outright garbage. They are all junk at wide open throttle of course. Lol. Electric is absolutely the way to go.

@@DustySteel IDK. Maybe the algorithm wants you to get a Ruckus. 😁

@GhettoWrench apparently it doesn’t know what I want lol.

​@@GhettoWrench😂

@ФранкПорш I would not know those things and I do not think the manufacturer's specifications state them either.

@GhettoWrench конечно нет таких значениях у продавца,я думал вы сами измеряли степень сжатия, то есть проливали камеру сгорания на собранном двигателе,есть формула расчета степени сжатия например камера сгорания у вас 8ссm .объем двигателя 90ccm ,по формуле нужно сделать так 90+8:8=12.25степень сжатия получается, степень сжатия очень влияет на мощность двигателя и на отзывчивость, естественно чем больше степень сжатия те более высокооктановый бензин нужен, например от 12,5 уже нужен бензин с98 октановым числом ,если меньше есть риск при нагреве будет детонация,то есть бензин будет воспламеняться не от искры свечи зажигания а от давления в цилиндре то есть как на дизельном моторе, поэтому и нужен высокооктановый бензин, Я просто спросил у вас потому что видел то что вы головку цилиндра не фрезеровали (не садили ниже относительно к поршню,то есть не уменьшали камеру сгорания) вот и подумал что там уже достаточная степень сжатия уже есть,если есть хотя бы 13-13,5это очень хорошо P.s. Не путайте компрессию и степень сжатия двигателя это абсолютно разные значения,если у вас компрессия будет 13 а степень сжатия например 8.5 мотор просто не поедет как положено!!!

@GhettoWrench ещё меня удивило то что вы не проверили герметичность клапанов и наличие фасок на сёдлах по хорошему их нужно прирезать зенкерами ,должно быть три фаски клапана 45°-30°-60° градусов соответственно,и впускной канал должен быть хотя бы 24 мм на током впускном клапане,то есть в головке нужно расширить впускной канал полностью для более лучшего прохождения воздушно топливной смеси

@ФранкПорш LOL! You must be Russian or Russian Ukranian as all the Russian friends I have are Engineers. I know I offended you either way with that statement. Sorry. I am American and we just throw stuff together and hope for the best. Then get all happy when it works. I never strive for more compression anymore because shaving the head throws off the cam timing as the chain is too long. I just check that the Valves hold liquid for my leak check. I am not a fan of high compression as I want to be able to burn any gas and ride in the city with bike being super hot. I have read these bikes have 10:1 stock, but not sure. My bike runs fine on cheap 87 octane at sea level and 10000rpm so I doubt it has anything over that. I never tried to do the calculations. Where do you live?

​@@GhettoWrenchда ни чем вы меня не обидели,что за глупости ,я просто увидел что вы делаете мотор мощнее вот и делаете замеры скорости вот и сделал выводы для себя что вы хотите максимум выжать из этого мотора вот и все!!.. PS. Ich wohne in Deutschland, Saarland, nicht so weit von Air Base Ramstein 😊)ja Sie sind Recht,ich habe geboren in Russland,aber meine Nationalität Deutsch !!!

@SuperPooh1961 been working. And mountain biking. And cleaning hurricane debris. And making excuses

@evidentloss The rolling wrench does look way better and so much smaller.

@@evidentloss thanks!

@hershelshochter4703 Thats a good point. Never even thought of that. But I have had the same crap results wirh the stock setups. If I daily drove them it would be fine..... like my lawnmower. LOL

@@GhettoWrench i drive a stock one and i learned to hate em, it's the details that get ya stranded. still love mine for some reason.

@hershelshochter4703 Like my old 52 Panhead. Walked home from every ride, but loved that stupid harley.

@randyedenfield8133 did you keep watching the videos of the white bike? I ended up putting a big bore kit (89cc) and the 24mm CVK to get above 50.

@GhettoWrench thank u I have plans to order one in the next week or so

@randyedenfield8133 awesome

@@jeffkrauss5582 I have heard of it but thought it was a myth. LOL. Who has them?

@ eBay seller dragonyee-1976 he also has a video on UA-cam about it in a kymco you’ll have to bore the case a lil bit

John yee is the UA-camr I believe he is a designer at taida

@jeffkrauss5582 oh ok... I did see that and was scared away by the case boring part. But that may make a good video 🤔🤔🤔

@jeffkrauss5582 oh wow. So his stuff is legit

@ryandavis4689 of you search me on Facebook im ted Edgar and my icon is a pic of me and my red mountain bike