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Video was lost after 95mm variator

Hey? How do u get rid of the vibrations on the bike when riding? I can’t bear it anymore my ass goes numb and my hands from the handlebars too

Can you put octane booster in for shits and giggles, might gain 1mph 😂

Wow....I had a crank + no start issue on my Maddog 50 and I did the same exact thing you did. Put the wrong bolts in the fan, drove it straight into my stator. Thank the heavens you're on UA-cam, I would've never guessed it was something as silly as that.

Looking to replace my front end on my gen 5. Any good non lowered forks.

That was both educational and entertaining!

I got the 11 pole. Don’t know when I’ll put it on but I also got the upgrade rectifier to match. Say it’s required.

Why dont you change your clutch springs for higher rpm?

Yeah with sliders you have to go about 1 more gram heavier than rollers 😊

Thank you

Go on a diet and lose 30 pounds and you'll do 55mph.

🤔 Maybe port & smooth out the ports in the head, port match the intake to the head.

Try a JATO rocket.

It is at the Mad Max level.. Could Space Ghost make it to 55 mph ??????

Space Ghost is BACK!!!!!! YEAH!!!!!!!!!😊😊😊😊

hey great vid. i learned a lot. did you ever figure out how to say effortlessly?

In the Karting world we use a Slippy Pipe. By Tod Spaude Of TS Racing, Inc. Reprinted from Inside Karting Magazine An enduro "slippy" pipe is used to achieve midrange and top end power. The sliding convergent (rear) cone is connected by way of a cable to a handle on your steering wheel. The handle is manually controlled. The following is an explanation on how to operate and set up a slippy pipe. Once the clutch begins to lock up and accelerate the kart, the pipe should be pulled in gradually, always keeping up with the engagement of the clutch and the acceleration of the kart. Do not pull the pipe too quickly or all at once, as this may cause problems. First, it can drag the engine rpm down. When this occurs, you lose distance on the track. To correct this problem, you must re-accelerate by letting the pipe handle out to relieve the engines extra load. Another problem is the heat that is generated when a slippy pipe is pulled too fast. As a result, detonation may be heard. However, even if a pipe is pulled correctly, temperatures may rise due to the setup not being completely dialed in. There are three main reasons why temperatures will rise. The first is clutch engaging lower than torque peak (10,000 rpm's instead of 10,500 rpm's). With this problem you would need to adjust the clutch slippage (move up or down into the engines power range). The second is that the flex tubing may be too short for your particular application or overall setup. Adding 1/8" to 3/8" of flex tubing will correct this problem. You can always shorten the flex when you are more comfortable with the entire setup. The third is a numerical gear ratio that is too low. An example would be if you were using a 4.5 gear ratio and needed a 4.7. The solution here is to let the engine operate in a freer condition and with less load by adding 2 or 3 teeth to the rear axle sprocket. The pipe must be in its most outward position to maintain low end power for proper acceleration. When releasing the pipe handle do so at the end of the straight or just before you get off the throttle. By releasing the handle under throttle, it will be pushed out with the most pressure. Mounting the pipe with the end cap angled below header height also helps the slider cone move out easier. Use a good quality cable, free of frayed wires and kinks. Do NOT clamp in the center section area of the pipe, as it may damage the sliding cone. As with any new pipe or setup, seizure may occur if the above three setup items are not closely monitored. In testing new pipes, it is always suggested to richen the hi-speed jet on the carburetor and to keep a close eye on the engine temperatures (head/exhaust). In summary, clutch engagement, flex tubing length and gearing are a big part in the overall setup of a slippy pipe. There are other factors, however, which play a critical role between having an average day and a winning day. Some are carburetor adjustments, chassis bind, motor, tire choice, weather conditions and most important, the desire to win.

I've got a crazy question if you're up for it. I put a 26mm carb on my stocker 150. I run a 35 and 110. It runs amazing. Best it ever has. My buddy has same bike got a 26mm and it coughs and sputters and is slower than with the 24. He has an electric pump like you did. I'm still vacuum. He also can't pull the vacuum line off his carb without it having problems with the slide. Any ideas?

That's crazy. I use a 110 in my stock 150. I've been looking for a slightly larger belt I think it's the 845. I also have a reveeno clutch. Lots of vibration is gone helps about 2000rpm that's it though

Would be interesting to see your afr. Hopefully you can figure out the issue.

Would a stronger contra spring with heavier rollers help you achieve this? The contra keeping it in lower gear with higher RPM for longer, and the heavier weights to compensate for the extra pressure resisting the variator opening up. I have basically the same setup with nearly exact results, but I'm running 10g rollers and hitting 52-53 (lower jetting as well.) I'm considering this change is why I ask.

gotta duck down and get low to get that extra 5 mph

Thanks for sharing the thought process! It really helps me troubleshoot. 🤠

" 'Common' Peasant. " Ted Uncommonly Good Humor😂. Appreciate Your Continuing Excellent Adventures & Knowledge Share. 👍 👍.

Have you thought about trying a slightly taller tire? I've done that on a 192cc qmj build after tapping out the cvt and rear gearing, found an extra 5mph and slightly lower cruising rpm. I'm mean to my gy6's running them above 10k rpm just for the mph's but your out of the power band by then anyway! Just an idea to throw around.

Very educational video. :)

Extend the bar on the magnet rotor (the ignition timing angle will increase). Put the camshaft A 9 (raise the RPM and the power will be transferred to the top). A 24-26mm carburetor should be enough. The variator is 88mm (drain). The weight of the goods in the variator is 4 g, no more. The belt length is 729. The clutch springs are as rigid as possible. The central spring is blue (slightly stiffer than the drain) Exhaust pipe with a large diameter knee (will facilitate the exit of gases, improve gas dynamics). We leave the gearbox 15/55. By the engine. Increase the compression ratio to 12 / 1 (you can also increase it to 13.5, but this is more difficult and dangerous) either by installing a 44 mm crankshaft or milling the cylinder head. Drain the inlet and outlet duct to the maximum possible 22/22.5/23 mm all the way from the carburetor to the valve seat. With an outlet channel also up to the maximum possible 20/21 mm. The configuration of the riding motor will be obtained. At the start, the engine should spin out to 9 thousand revolutions with a drop to 8 thousand revolutions (the variator is triggered). Further, the speed gain is due to an increase in RPM. The engine torque in this configuration is at the level of 8-8.5 thousand volts. The maximum speed is 63-65 mph.

did you try advancing the timing by a degree or two?

ua-cam.com/video/ATh7C4e7at0/v-deo.htmlsi=yRCqxVe_C6gvKkrl not super informative but this guy did 30mm cvk on a maddog and seems his nibbi performed better by a long shot. Dunno. On the fence now if I should try the cvk route.

Them tires are well ugly. Lusten the stock front is perfect but the back tire doesnt work as far as per portion

Dude it's white white like dirty white. To much but it's yours an you enjoy

A YEAR LATER AND STILL THE ABSOLUTE BEST CHANNEL ON UA-cam BY FAR!!! I watched this one again when i saw the comment on the other pipe video you have. I love the angle and setup of this one. If that is the same lower pipe as the one in the other video I'll do exactly what you did here. Definitely a great way to slip each together after cutting to fit. AliExpress needs an incentive program. I swear you would be making money of they had one. I seem to buy everything you advertise on these videos. Lol.

Very informative video. I'll be watching it again as a guide. Thanks. :)

That hose is a vent on the back? Mine didnt have one

I have the naraku 24mm carburetor for the 139qmb and a 83cc kit..the carb goes for the 125cc and 150cc and I'm having trouble starting it cold? But if I remove the airfilter and choke the carb with my palm it'll start up. After it warms up I put the air filter back on and rides great. And starts up fine after it's warm over 50mph yesterday. I do have a 22mm intake manifold on it. I think it recommends a bigger manifold but I don't know if it'll help. Please mini me, can you help?

Hey, have you got a video on how to fit a carb on an efi engine? I'm hoping on fitting a big bore soon so I think the efi just won't be able to handle it

I just installed a PZ19 on my chinese 50cc 139qmb and besides JETTING adjustement because of the POD filter it was super easy to setup and runs perfect!

@GhettoWrench when you showed the listing of the throttle cable what platform is that? It looks similar to ebay but a dark background.

My 80cc bbk was much more rideable with the 18mm than 24mm. Better pull at low to middle rpm.

hey please lmk if there's anyway i can contact you i have a question for you!!!!

@GhettoWrench Thats a hell of a pipe job there. That is what im going to do. Is that lower pipe the same one from the other video and different muffler and the stock header. Thats perfect.

I put gaskets between spacer, the head and the manifold. That solved poor running. So just using one gasket did not work out well on my 50 cc.

Thank you.

Wilson Sarah Thompson Charles Rodriguez Laura

I have the same maddog in white I changed the carb but now I need a starter clutch but all I'm seeing is one for a 150 gy6 and they say it want fit. So confused. Will a 150cc starter clutch work on the 50cc? Any help is very much appreciated.

I want some of that food!

I did the same for my 90cc works perfect

Mine, sometimes starts... then chokes out. Then doesn't start. Ideas?

Does it fit a coleman b200r

does it fit the coleman ct200